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 > Your search for posts made by '1L243' found 111 matches.

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RE: Solar Panel Height

Mine are as close as possible given a curved roof. If I redo the system in summer of 2022, I'll have a rack that is above the air conditioner. Now that would be something to see going down the road. http://www.onborrowedland.com/wp-content/uploads/solarRVroofrack.jpg height=340 width=460
1L243 04/19/21 01:25am Tech Issues
Solar Panel Height

I posted this at the end of a old thread but I think it has ran it's course. After viewing many photos of RV Solar Panel installs I see a big difference in the distance between the roof of the RV and the solar panel. Some appear less than a inch some 5" OR 6" from the roof to panel. In my case I used Renogy two piece mounting brackets and as low as I could go is about 3" on the ends. My roof has a curve so a little less in the center of the panel. I have to admit I like the look of the panels being closer to the roof but what is the ideal or is there a ideal recommended height for solar panels. I did read that 3" is minimum with 4" to 6" preferred but not sure if they were referencing RV's or solar panels in general. Apparently the height has to to with heat from the solar panels, just how hot does it get under there? Any thoughts?
1L243 04/18/21 04:40pm Tech Issues
RE: mounting my solar panels

Not to hijack my own thread but was scanning through some RV solar panel mounting projects and notice how much difference there was in the distance between the panels and the roof of the RV. In my case I used Renogy two piece mounting brackets and was limited on the height of the panel. My roof is curved, the ends of the panels are 3" from the roof the center of the panel is 2 1/2" from the roof. I read that to allow fro proper panel cooling 3" minimum but 4" to 6" would be ideal. I was wondering what the consensus would be on panel height?
1L243 04/17/21 10:30pm Tech Issues
RE: mounting my solar panels

Something to think about when deciding how many bolts/screws to secure your panels to the roof. I was watching a couple of youtube videos on boondocking and one guy was camped in the California desert and a 80+ mph wind/dust storm kicked up for many minutes. It blew his antenna and vent cover off the roof. He did not have solar panels on his roof but if he did I thing they would have been gone. Another video a couple heads off into the National Forest and comes across a washboard portion of the dirt road. It was enough to rattle your filling out. If you not planning on going off paved roads it may not be that big of a deal. Although several years ago I was heading across New Mexico and a freak windstorm came up. We got off the freeway and found a nice protected RV Park. We got blown around pretty good. Later we learned that they closed the freeway and several big rigs were blown over. Kinda make me glad that I put the extra screws in my panels...
1L243 03/25/21 04:58pm Tech Issues
RE: Solar Questions

Hi 1L243, If they are LiFePo4 batteries they won't "love" being float charged. So that case I'd have a different answer. No, unfortunately not. Four 12v lead acid 340ahs.
1L243 03/22/21 11:26pm Tech Issues
RE: Solar Questions

The way my system is setup I plug the shore power into the inverter BUT first I turn of the breaker at the Converter that controls charging the batteries. I also throw the breaker for the AC just so it don't come on automatically. I have to unplug my refrigerator to force it to gas otherwise it chooses electric for you if it's plugged into 110. My Hot water heater is propane only so not part of the loop. Good to know about cleansing the panels I really don't want to have to go up on the roof all the time to keep them clean.
1L243 03/22/21 11:18pm Tech Issues
Solar Questions

I have completed my 500 watt solar install with 2000 watt PSW Inverter. I have a couple of questions. If your plugged into shore power at a Park would you Question: 1. Have both the Converter and Solar Charge Controller maintain batteries at same time? 2. Solar Charge Controller only with Converter breaker off? 3. Shut down Solar completely and let Converter maintain batteries? Question: When I turn on my Inverter it will energize all the outlets in my RV. I will have The AC breaker off, Hot water heater is on propane as is the refrigerator BUT I will have 3 tv's a 40" and two 24", a satellite box and a portable satellite dish. None of these will be on but will be plugged in. Do these devices need to be unplugged before turning on Inverter. Question: Do you clean your solar panels, if so what do you use?
1L243 03/22/21 10:26pm Tech Issues
RE: mounting my solar panels

Thanks everyone for the input. I have checked with Gulfstream, and was told that my roof is 3/8" plywood covered with rubber membrane. Yes, these are 2-100 watt panels. I have decided to go ahead and use well nuts 3/8" x 1". these are supposed to work for material from 5/16" to 5/8". My kit includes their Z-brackets, so that is what I will use. I have read to put Dicor sealant around the hole before inserting well nut, as well as Dicor over the bolt head when done. Panels are arriving later this week. Hoping for the best. Get some 3/8" OSB plywood and practice with the well nuts and make sure your happy before application on the trailer. Be careful not to get the membrane caught in the drill bit when drilling 3/8 is a pretty big hole.
1L243 03/22/21 11:03am Tech Issues
RE: mounting my solar panels

I have ordered some solar panels to put on my TT. I bought the 200 watt kit from Renogy. I doubt that I will be able to determine where the structural members are, so there is the very real possibility that if I just use screws they will only be into the plywood decking. In any other applications, I would trust this, but not for going down the highway at 60mph. Therefore, I am thinking of using expanding well nuts. Good plan? Or does the collective here feel that the screws should be enough? Also, what is best sealant to insure no leaks? No clue what the roof surface is. TT is a Gulfstream Conquest. Bil I just went thorough this. I did not buy Renogy Panels but I did buy Renogy mounting brackets. The brackets come with mounting screws four per bracket. The first screw I put in did not bite. The screw is a number 10 or less. Fine threads. As soon as that happened I went down to the hardware store and got some round head number 12 x 1 stainless screws that have a course thread for biting into wood. These worked great no pilot hole just screw them in with impact driver being careful not to over torque. As soon as the driver ratcheted and screw head was flush that was it. Prior to screwing down the brackets I cleaned with a little acetone I put a small strip of Eternabond between the roof membrane and the Renogy bracket. Eternabond will self seal around the screws as they pass through. I used Dicor self leveling sealant to seal the screw heads and around the brackets. I was very generous with the Dicor. Which may have caused a little ripple affect with the roof membrane as it began to dry which I discovered the next day. I contacted Dicor about this by email which they did not respond too but I did find written information from Dicor that said the following. "Lap sealants formulated for RV roofs, on the other hand, are made to bite into the EPDM or TPO roof material (Dicor lap sealant also works with metal and fiberglass) and hold fast. In the case of a common EPDM roof, lap sealants like Dicor's self-leveling and non-sag, non self-leveling sealants contain an oil-based solvent that reacts with the oil-based elements in the roofing material. At first, this reaction will actually cause the roofing material to swell a bit — you might even get a slight rippling effect. But don't worry! This is only temporary while the reacting oils evaporate, which brings the roof back to its normal state and, most importantly, essentially fusing the sealant and roofing material together". It's been 3 weeks or so since I installed my panels and the rippling affect has improved but not perfect. Waiting for some nice hot days. Yes, drilling 16 screws per panel x five panels is 80 holes but do a good job and forget about it. https://i.imgur.com/Wn73WOd.jpg height=480 width=640 https://i.imgur.com/FksPalu.jpg height=480 width=640
1L243 03/21/21 02:17pm Tech Issues
RE: Calling on Solar Techies

Back to my Shunt. I have just ran out of room on the load side of the Shunt. I don't have enough room to add a Neg Busbar inside my battery box and it's too late to reroute and put it in the storage compartment. I would like to add longer stainless bolts on the Shunt. Stainless because I can't find brass bolts that big anywhere. The bolts that came with the Shunt are 3/8 x 1 1/2" I think I can get by with 3/8 x 2". Can I do this without changing the values of the Shunt? https://i.imgur.com/KoxmjFe.jpg height=480 width=640
1L243 03/20/21 01:38pm Tech Issues
RE: Battery Percentage Before Charging.

I just spoke with the research and development department (me) and it was decided to postpone the low voltage test to prevent unnecessary damage due to sulfation. We will be having real world testing soon enough.. Thank for the input..
1L243 03/17/21 08:16pm Tech Issues
RE: Battery Percentage Before Charging.

My Trailer is in covered storage so no sunlight for the panels. I'm in the process of watching my shunted battery monitor slowly come down from the little parasitic loads inside the trailer. at a 0.01 percent draw it might take a while. I'm doing this on purpose so I can get a understanding on the accuracy of the battery monitor. It's been about 10 days now and the battery is currently showing 12.5 volts at 97% capacity. I set the monitor after charging fully then resting for 4 hours at 100% The monitor can be set at 100% if fully charged or at 0% if dead. Not wanting to discharge my batteries fully I chose the 100%. But I did read somewhere that setting at 0% percent then letting the batteries find 100% when fully charged might be a more accurate setting????? I'm thinking 12.2 volt will be as low as I will go with the test. Under normal circumstances I usually don't go below 12.3 volts
1L243 03/17/21 01:06pm Tech Issues
Battery Percentage Before Charging.

I was wondering what the consensus is on what your AT REST battery level of charge is before you feel you MUST get in on the charger? Understanding percentage may vary depending on type of batteries.
1L243 03/16/21 08:05pm Tech Issues
Wifi and Cell Phone Extenders

This topic has been moved to another forum. You can read it here: 30216278
1L243 03/13/21 10:25pm Tech Issues
Wifi and Cell Phone Extenders

Are Wifi and Cell phone extenders worth the money or do they even work?
1L243 03/13/21 10:25pm Technology Corner
RE: Calling on Solar Techies

At least it all works right when everything is connected. (So leave it connected? :) ) Some things we are just not meant to know! Yes, the same thought came to my mind.. Thanks
1L243 03/05/21 08:45pm Tech Issues
RE: Calling on Solar Techies

Might be something to do with how the highest voltage path takes the amps? You took away that path and now the lower one is "live"? Not a clue. On my Trimetric shunt there is no positive at all. The display is powered by a positive wire and its negs across the shunt come up from the shunt to the display. Shunt wiring diagram https://i.imgur.com/a55ByP6.jpg height=480 width=640 The Shunt https://i.imgur.com/KoxmjFe.jpg height=480 width=640 My shunt as wired https://i.imgur.com/LfzE2Xd.jpg height=640 width=380
1L243 03/05/21 08:25pm Tech Issues
RE: Calling on Solar Techies

The shunt is energized but has nothing on the load side, and on the battery side the fuse was removed so it is not connected to the battery neg. Is there a fuse holder still there? So the only wires on the shunt are the amps measuring wires on either side of the shunt? and the monitor has positive 12v? It is unusual that there would be a fuse between the shunt's battery end and the battery neg post. I have not figured this out--just collecting info now. ISTR you had a similar problem way back with the battery switch on the neg side, now gone? Is something connecting via the metal battery box? The battery side of the shunt is connected to the negative terminal of battery 4. The shunt is powered by a low amp fuse to the positive side of battery 4. That is the fuse I removed. Wires going into battery box are shielded and not touching anything metal. I am thinking this is the same problem that came up before that I thought was fixed. After removing the disconnect switch and connecting the loads to the shunt their was no short. Therefor, I thought that removing the disconnect switch had fixed it. I am perplexed why the short goes away when all load wires are connected to the load side of shunt?
1L243 03/05/21 06:18pm Tech Issues
RE: Calling on Solar Techies

You got to removing the inverter's neg from the shunt and then said nothing was now there, but did not list the 12v accessory. Is the inverter's chassis ground connected to the frame? Is the shore power plugged in? Where is the converter's neg? I remove the first load from the shunt which is the charge controller and no short. I remove the next load which is the Negative battery to frame, no short. I remove the Negative load to the Inverter and the short appears. I remove the 12v accessory and the short is still present. At this point there is nothing on the load side of the shunt but the shunt is energized. I also removed the fuse between the shunt and the battery The Trailer is NOT plugged into 110ac. The Converter ground is bolted to the Trailer frame.
1L243 03/05/21 04:50pm Tech Issues
RE: Calling on Solar Techies

Wiring! I have a issue at my wiring and Shunt that is just confusing maybe you guys have some ideas. I wired my Monitor shunt inside the battery box with the batteries. I connected the battery side of the shunt to the Negative side of Battery (4). I connected the Trailer Frame Ground, Inverter, Solar Charge Controller and a 12 volt accessory to the Load side of the Shunt. When everything is connected there is no problem.. BUT when I disconnect the grounds from the Load side of the shunt With a test light connected to the frame of the trailer In this order I remove the charge controller ground.... Nothing I remove the trailer frame ground....Nothing I remove the inverter ground and I get a 12 volt short to ground. According to my test light the entire shunt becomes energized. I'm also able to get a circuit with my test light connected to the frame and touching negative battery terminals. At this time only the battery side of the shunt is connected. Also I have tried Cutting circuit breaker power from battery to trailer Cutting circuit breaker from charge controller to battery Cutting off power switch from solar panels Removing fuse from Inverter And it still occurs. Put all back together and no short????? Any thoughts?
1L243 03/05/21 02:44pm Tech Issues
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