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Date Posted |
Forum
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RE: Battery Bank Location
6 Golf Cart 6 volts $600I suspect I have to replace all 6 of my golf cart batteries because it sat in a cargo trailer for the last 2.5 years untended.
Where do you get them for $100 each?
Costco
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1L243
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10/20/22 10:22am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Battery Bank Location
Thanks for the input. My pass through storage area is about 24 sq ft. Under the bed only about 12 sq ft.
I will be in the planning for a sealed vented battery box or boxes under the bed. Which is storage area I don't really use for anything else.
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1L243
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10/19/22 03:56pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Battery Bank Location
Lithium batteries under the bed would be my choice. No venting. Less weight. Low voltage drop. No corrosion. More usable AHs. For instance a 300 AH Lithium battery has 270 usable amps conservatively.
Would be my choice too! but $$$$$$$$$$$$$
3 Lithium batteries $3000
6 Golf Cart 6 volts $600
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1L243
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10/19/22 03:49pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Battery Bank Location
Wouldn't 4 6V batteries give you more AHs than your current 12Vs and be enough to avoid the extra tongue weight and relocation?
Yes, 6's would be about 100 more ah. But six 6 volts would give me about 300ah more than I have how for little extra cost.
My Tongue Weight is 1540 pounds which includes two 30 pound propane tanks and the WDH, which is in the ball park for a 10,000 pound Toy Hauler.
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1L243
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10/19/22 03:41pm |
Tech Issues
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Battery Bank Location
I currently have a four battery 12 volt battery bank at 340ah. The batteries are located on the factory installed generator platform on the tongue of the 36' bumper pull toy hauler. I want to upgrade to six
6 volt flooded golf cart batteries. To do this I have to move the battery bank to the front cargo area or the area under the queen bed at the front of the Rig (preferred).
Do I need to have a sealed vented battery box or do I just need to vent the compartments where the batteries will be located?
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1L243
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10/18/22 08:00pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Pulled to the left when being passed by Big Rigs
What tires do you have. Soft sidewalls, allow sideways movement. Go with a stiffer tire!
Also check your weights per TV and TT axel weights, especially the TV front end, to light will exaggerate sway.
I have 10 plys on both the truck and the trailer. Besides WDH I have two anti sway bars one on each side.
My TW is close to 15% so I think its good, I tried lowering the front of the trailer a inch but it did not make any difference.
I will try moving to the right and see how that works.
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1L243
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08/19/22 08:15pm |
General RVing Issues
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Pulled to the left when being passed by Big Rigs
I'm towing 10,000 bumper pull Toy Hauler. I'm under my Gross weight in both the truck and Toy Hauler.. My TW is 1440 pounds including the hitch.
My trailer sits level when being towed. But everytime I'm passed by a big rig or a big box truck I get sucked over.
Is there anything I can do to deal with this or is it just then nature of the beast!
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1L243
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08/18/22 08:18pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Brakes Broken On The Road
Everyone will be happy to know that I found a replacement backing plate will all the braking components at a RV Parts Warehouse on Monday morning. Got it installed and all is good.
The interesting thing is that between the four guys that worked there not one had seen or heard of this happening before.
Here are some pics
https://i.imgur.com/tktQwqK.jpg height=480 width=860
https://i.imgur.com/PZLpVwR.jpg height=560 width=540
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1L243
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08/02/22 09:44pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Brakes Broken On The Road
^^^^ WHAT ????? :h. :h
Wow your truck is 21 years newer than mine!
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1L243
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07/31/22 09:35pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Brakes Broken On The Road
Well first you shouldn't have posted your problem. Got to be smarter in situations like this.
Truth is I drove 20,000 thousand miles with only three functional brakes on the fifth wheel.
Did get them all replaced before a trade in.
Whatever you do is your business I suggest you keep it that way.
You can always edit your post and none will be any the wiser.
Ha Ha funny. Its just a brake backing plate component failure.. I was curious how it actually happened and thought maybe someone would have an Idea so I can fix whatever it was before it happens again.
Hopefully I can get the part I need but if I don't I think I will cut all the brake power to that axle. I don't think braking on one side and not the other is a good Idea.
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1L243
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07/31/22 09:33pm |
Tech Issues
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Brakes Broken On The Road
I have a 2017 Coleman 300tq Toy Hauler with 4400# Lipert axles.
When I pulled into our campground last Tuesday I felt a serious tug on the trailer brake. I checked all the wheels with a temp gun and the right rear was 30 degrees hotter than the other 3.
Waiting until today (tell me about it) a day before we are due to check out I thought I better give that wheel a look.
With the wheel off the ground I could tell there was a problem when I spin the tire. Pulled the tire and drum I could see that things were bent out of place. The brake pad arms seemed out of position and the backing plate was bent out.
Don't know how it happened but it's Sunday anybody that is open today including camping world does not have the 10 inch backing plate with brake components for 4400# axle instock.
They had 3500# component which looked the same but when I checked to see what the difference was I found that the backing plate 4 bolt mounting holes are slightly different that the 3500#. The too is the same but the bottom a little wider.
When I look at the mounting holes I see no noticeable difference but when I tape measure I come up with 2 13/16 center to center. But my imperfect measuring tape may differ by 1/16"
Monday when a local trailer parts store opens I am going to try and get a total backing plate and brake component replacement for 4400# axles. I will be taking my old one with me.
Now. if I can't get the replacement part I need I am thinking of straightening out the backing plate and putting it back on without the brake components until I get somewhere that has the part I need 200/300 miles. and just running on the 3 good tires that still have brakes or Should I cut the power to the rear axle all together and just run brakes on the front axle.
Any thoughts.
Wish I would have got started on this sooner.
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1L243
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07/31/22 04:54pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Easy Start By Micro Air
My experience has been that a single 2000 will run it, but it's really working hard and LOUD. And if your converter kicks on it'll die. Best to get another and parallel them. Yes, you can parallel a 2200 with a 2000.
Your right I would not have anything on over a few hundred watts when running the AC. I can get by with a TV and some lights.
I have a automatic transfer switch so my Converter will only be on when connected to shore power when I switch over to Inverter power the Converter is disconnected.
When I installed my Progressive Dynamics four stage converter to the Automatic Transfer Switch the wiring called for removing the Converter from the panel and wiring into the Automatic Transfer Switch (ATS) directly. This removed the 15amp circuit breaker so I had to add a switch to my control panel so I could still turn off the Converter when needed. For example if I was to be on generator I would turn off the Converter. My batteries would still be getting charged from the Solar Charge Controller.
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1L243
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07/20/22 12:53pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Easy Start By Micro Air
My experience has been that a single 2000 will run it, but it's really working hard and LOUD. And if your converter kicks on it'll die. Best to get another and parallel them. Yes, you can parallel a 2200 with a 2000.
Your right I would not have anything on over a few hundred watts when running the AC. I can get by with a TV and some lights.
I have a automatic transfer switch so my Converter will only be on when connected to shore power when I switch over to Inverter power the Converter is disconnected.
When I installed my Progressive Dynamics four stage converter to the Automatic Transfer Switch the wiring called for removing the Converter from the panel and wiring into the Automatic Transfer Switch (ATS) directly. This removed the 15amp circuit breaker. I had to install a 15amp fuse inside the ATS for the Converter. I added a switch to my control panel so I could still turn off the Converter when needed. For example if I was to be on generator I would turn off the Converter. My batteries would still be getting charged from the Solar Charge Controller.
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1L243
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07/20/22 12:52pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Easy Start By Micro Air
From my own perspective (of one who occasionally runs their air conditioner from the inverter), a few observations, but for background, my equipment:
400a/h LFP (formerly, 2 GC wet-cell), 2k watt PSW pass-thru Inverter, 660w solar, Coleman 11kbtu air conditioner w/soft-start, Honda 2200 (formerly, Honda 2000) - system incrementally ($$) upgraded over the years…
***************
Several Observations:
First off (retrospectively…), compared to wet-cells, voltage sag with LFP’s is uber brief and relatively insignificant in such that (in my view…) this sole characteristic ‘may’ even negate the need for a soft-start - However, this is not an ‘anti-soft-start’ argument, of which I believe is superior to a conventional start cap…FWIW these clever proprietary ‘black boxes’ have even replaced capacitors on modern 120v single-phase, home HVAC blower motors, which ‘electronically synthesize’ a far more efficient three phase current during motor start-ups accompanied with variable start-up frequency, negating the need for the old school capacitors previously used to help keep start-up current and voltage in phase…
So I’m somewhat impressed to know that your 2000w inverter (pass-thru or PSW type - I donno??) will run a 13.5kbtu air conditioner (i.e. via characteristically voltage sluggish wet-cells…) interesting - Kudos to the Easy-start!…
So for raw estimation purposes only:
Considering all loads, your fully charged 340a/h capacity wet-cells have an effective useable capacity of only about half that (170a/h), although supplemented with 500w of solar…
However, when using wet-cells, a lower limit of say 60% SOC (State of Charge) seems more practical due to the effects of voltage sag on the compressor motor (ugg!) and what’s now become a struggling inverter…Rising ambient temps will also play a roll increasing motor amperage as well…
A rough thumbnail sketch:
So assuming an air conditioner duty cycle of say 2/3rds, concurrent with say 2/3rds productive solar harvest, and a 40% battery DOD (Depth of Discharge) equaling say 136 usable battery a/hrs:
120a/hr (dc) air cond @ 2/3rds duty cycle = approx 80a/hrs (dc)
18a (dc) concurrent hourly harvest = 62a/hrs hourly run deficit = about 2hrs runtime (compressor cycling) to 124a/hrs consumed, with 12a/hrs in reserve before 60% SOC - 46a/hrs in reserve before 50% SOC…).
Here again, due to their much deeper depth of discharge and nearly stable voltage, LFP’s have a clear advantage via longer run times…
*************
Some Notes:
Initial camper cooldown period (depending on volume) may require a full duty cycle.
This example does not consider ‘other hour’ solar harvest.
Onboard Converter-charger (etc) disabled.
JMO Only,
3 tons
Thanks that is very useful information.
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1L243
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07/20/22 12:29pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Easy Start By Micro Air
My experience has been that a single 2000 will run it, but it's really working hard and LOUD. And if your converter kicks on it'll die. Best to get another and parallel them. Yes, you can parallel a 2200 with a 2000.
Your right I would not have anything on over a few hundred watts when running the AC. I can get by with a TV and some lights.
I have a automatic transfer switch so my Converter will only be on when connected to shore power when I switch over to Inverter power the Converter is disconnected.
Before I added the automatic transfer switch I use to shut off the breaker to the converter before turning on the Inverter.
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1L243
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07/20/22 12:23pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Easy Start By Micro Air
From Micro Air's website: "Generators with 80CC and smaller engines are not recommended with 13.5K BTU and larger compressors. All other loads must be off when operating this close to a generator’s limit."
I mention this because a lot of inverter generators in the 2KW size range use 80CC engines - Champion, Yamaha, Wen, Harbor Freight, etc.
The Honda EU2000i models use a 100CC engine.
The EU2200i models use a 120CC engine - a full 1/3rd larger than 80CC models.
I purchased my Easy Start from Hutch Mountain they had a great youtube video that was the exact same AC as mine and it was easy to follow the step by step instructions. Plus they were eager to respond to my inquiries and assure me my 2000 watt Honda woudl work fine.
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1L243
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07/20/22 12:19pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Easy Start By Micro Air
From other postings I've seen where people have tested running their A/C off batteries and they are reporting that you can get about 1 hr of run time for each 200aH of battery.
I wonder how long it will be before RV manufacturers start offering an option of placing Lithium-Ion (or sodium) batteries in the generator bay, installing an inverter at least 2800W, wiring all the 110v outlets and appliances in the RV thru the inverter, and putting Soft Starts in the A/C. And with Lithium or sodium batteries, installing the second high-output alternator in the chassis in addition to as much solar as then can fit on the roof.
While recently researching for my next RV I found one that I liked which I thought could be built this way quite easily to match my camping style. (I'm not looking to run the A/C on batteries other then when I'm traveling, hence the second alternator. Plus future battery technology may improve well beyond where it is now.) I figured I could replace the generator with about 1200aH of Lithium batteries (pricey, but doable). When I contacted the manufacturer with my requested changes, they flatly refused - said the generator couldn't be eliminated and they'd never wire the A/C and microwave thru the inverter. Reluctantly crossed them off my list and moved to other manufacturers.
I see manufactures started to put small Solar systems with standard being 150 watts but but you can up grade to 300 watts. I also heard that EPA is going to make small gas generator illegal. still p300 watt solar is still pretty lite when it comes to solar and power demand.
When I did my system I determined I could get by with a 500 watt solar because I boondocks almost always in the summer. Since my battery banks of 340ah is lead acid only half of that is usable.
In the summer with my flagrant use of energy running a big screen TV, Satellite I am usually back up to 100% by 1pm. BUT throw in a cloudy day or one day of rain or low sun angle and I will be sucking off the generator. I do run my frige on propane when boodocking.
If you want to be able to boondock all year round and run at least one AC you will need that large battery bank 1200ah in lithium would cost you a bundle. Throw in 1500 watts of solar on the roof and some nice Victron electronics and you into a 25k+ solar system not counting labor. Now if I had a little piece of land somewhere where I could park when not traveling maybe the price would be worth it.
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1L243
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07/20/22 12:16pm |
Tech Issues
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Easy Start By Micro Air
I wanted to run my 13.5 Dometic AC on my generator but having only a 2000 watt Honda EUI, it was either buy a bigger generator or try the Easy Start from Micro Air.
I decided to go with the Easy Start. Installation was straight forward a youtube video was a great help.
After installation you have to go though a learning process for the Easy Start.
After the learning process I connected to my Honda 2000 and it ran the AC just fine. Prior to the Easy Start it would just trip the generator.
I tested amps at sartup prior to Easy start and it was around 32 amps. Now keep in mind this is just for a second when the compressor kicks on but enough to kick off the generator.
After Easy Start the start up amps are around 15 to 18 amps. It's so fast it's hard for the electrical monitor to record it.
The Honda has to be run on fast or run mode and not econo mode when using the AC .
For fun I thought I would see if the AC would run on my 2000 watt inverter and it did!
It was no different than running on the generator as far as the start up is concerned. Once the compressor kicks in the AC is running on about 12 amps.
I have a 500 watt solar system with 2000 watt Renogy inverter. My battery bank is 340 amp hours of lead acid.
I know I can't run the AC long on the battery bank that I now have but it will be interesting to see what happens when I'm dry camping in two weeks and see what the draw is on ac when solar is at it's peak of about 25 amps.
When ever I run a big appliance like microwave or coffee maker off my lead acid batteries my battery voltage drops to about 11.5 volts and it stays there until they appliance is turned off. Then the voltage creeps back up to the actual voltage. I understand this does not happen to Lithium batteries. It makes it difficult to monitor the battery voltage when under a heavy load.
So a big thumbs up to Easy Start by Micro Air
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1L243
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07/19/22 11:21pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Towing With Air Bags.
WHY are you unloaded your front axle when hitched with a tow behind???
Because that’s what literally happens when you apply a significant load aft of the rear axle…
Unless one can transfer most/all the tongue weight away with the wdh.
He has a weight distribution hitch correct??? Setup they ADD weight to the front axle NOT remove it. He is removing weight.
I have a WDH with 1500 pound bars.
You drop enough weight like 1400 pounds of TW and 300 pounds of cargo on the back bumper your going to lighten the front end. I was happy it was only 200 pounds. The WDH is cranked about as far as I want to crank it.
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1L243
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07/16/22 02:16am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Towing With Air Bags.
I'm under my GVWR and I am under my GCWR so I don't think there is anything dangerous going on here. As far as the airbags go they are an assist just like the WDH. I would not count on airbags to support all the weight of the truck and trailer. I so expect them to improve my ride.
1400 pounds of TW puts me between 10% and 15% which is where I want to be.
I don't think I will be adjusting the WDH any tighter.
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1L243
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07/15/22 11:55am |
Tech Issues
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