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 > Your search for posts made by '1L243' found 118 matches.

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Wifi and Cell Phone Extenders

This topic has been moved to another forum. You can read it here: 30216278
1L243 03/13/21 10:25pm Tech Issues
Wifi and Cell Phone Extenders

Are Wifi and Cell phone extenders worth the money or do they even work?
1L243 03/13/21 10:25pm Technology Corner
RE: Calling on Solar Techies

At least it all works right when everything is connected. (So leave it connected? :) ) Some things we are just not meant to know! Yes, the same thought came to my mind.. Thanks
1L243 03/05/21 08:45pm Tech Issues
RE: Calling on Solar Techies

Might be something to do with how the highest voltage path takes the amps? You took away that path and now the lower one is "live"? Not a clue. On my Trimetric shunt there is no positive at all. The display is powered by a positive wire and its negs across the shunt come up from the shunt to the display. Shunt wiring diagram https://i.imgur.com/a55ByP6.jpg height=480 width=640 The Shunt https://i.imgur.com/KoxmjFe.jpg height=480 width=640 My shunt as wired https://i.imgur.com/LfzE2Xd.jpg height=640 width=380
1L243 03/05/21 08:25pm Tech Issues
RE: Calling on Solar Techies

The shunt is energized but has nothing on the load side, and on the battery side the fuse was removed so it is not connected to the battery neg. Is there a fuse holder still there? So the only wires on the shunt are the amps measuring wires on either side of the shunt? and the monitor has positive 12v? It is unusual that there would be a fuse between the shunt's battery end and the battery neg post. I have not figured this out--just collecting info now. ISTR you had a similar problem way back with the battery switch on the neg side, now gone? Is something connecting via the metal battery box? The battery side of the shunt is connected to the negative terminal of battery 4. The shunt is powered by a low amp fuse to the positive side of battery 4. That is the fuse I removed. Wires going into battery box are shielded and not touching anything metal. I am thinking this is the same problem that came up before that I thought was fixed. After removing the disconnect switch and connecting the loads to the shunt their was no short. Therefor, I thought that removing the disconnect switch had fixed it. I am perplexed why the short goes away when all load wires are connected to the load side of shunt?
1L243 03/05/21 06:18pm Tech Issues
RE: Calling on Solar Techies

You got to removing the inverter's neg from the shunt and then said nothing was now there, but did not list the 12v accessory. Is the inverter's chassis ground connected to the frame? Is the shore power plugged in? Where is the converter's neg? I remove the first load from the shunt which is the charge controller and no short. I remove the next load which is the Negative battery to frame, no short. I remove the Negative load to the Inverter and the short appears. I remove the 12v accessory and the short is still present. At this point there is nothing on the load side of the shunt but the shunt is energized. I also removed the fuse between the shunt and the battery The Trailer is NOT plugged into 110ac. The Converter ground is bolted to the Trailer frame.
1L243 03/05/21 04:50pm Tech Issues
RE: Calling on Solar Techies

Wiring! I have a issue at my wiring and Shunt that is just confusing maybe you guys have some ideas. I wired my Monitor shunt inside the battery box with the batteries. I connected the battery side of the shunt to the Negative side of Battery (4). I connected the Trailer Frame Ground, Inverter, Solar Charge Controller and a 12 volt accessory to the Load side of the Shunt. When everything is connected there is no problem.. BUT when I disconnect the grounds from the Load side of the shunt With a test light connected to the frame of the trailer In this order I remove the charge controller ground.... Nothing I remove the trailer frame ground....Nothing I remove the inverter ground and I get a 12 volt short to ground. According to my test light the entire shunt becomes energized. I'm also able to get a circuit with my test light connected to the frame and touching negative battery terminals. At this time only the battery side of the shunt is connected. Also I have tried Cutting circuit breaker power from battery to trailer Cutting circuit breaker from charge controller to battery Cutting off power switch from solar panels Removing fuse from Inverter And it still occurs. Put all back together and no short????? Any thoughts?
1L243 03/05/21 02:44pm Tech Issues
RE: Calling on Solar Techies

84 WH daily charge = 6 AH, this sounds like floating battery in storage. Not sure about 0 WH discharge. The trailer is in storage and except for the few tests I have done there is nothing on.. We finally got some sun so I dragged it out of the garage to bake in the sun today. To tell you the truth I'm not sure how the PWM measures a discharge there is no shunt or anything like that. I'm thinking if the amps drop below into the negative range for some period of time maybe but that has only happened for a few minutes during the tests that I made.
1L243 03/01/21 09:02pm Tech Issues
RE: Calling on Solar Techies

From the PWM App https://i.imgur.com/dEXmW2C.png height=640 width=480 https://i.imgur.com/1Pj7JXJ.png height=640 width=480 https://i.imgur.com/XMhvpWI.jpg height=400 width=600 https://i.imgur.com/FksPalu.jpg height=400 width=600
1L243 03/01/21 05:18pm Tech Issues
RE: Calling on Solar Techies

Your big project is a success! Now to go camping and enjoy the toys. :) Yes, dry camping in Wyoming this summer. If you see a guy in a 35 foot Toy Hauler not connected to the grid and he has three TV's on and wrap around led outside lighting, a sun tanning lamp and has a big smile on his face wave, it will be me!
1L243 02/28/21 07:38pm Tech Issues
RE: Calling on Solar Techies

The solar charge controller started charging the Bats at 14.6 volts but since the batteries were already fully charged it dropped to 1.2 volts in a few minutes. If the batteries were full and the solar charger recognized them as full shouldn't it go to your float voltage setting instead of 1.2v? It did, it just took about 2 minutes to get there. I was watching the amperage drop through the Aili Battery monitor. I don't think it happens like a switch. I'm Pretty happy with the outcome.
1L243 02/28/21 07:35pm Tech Issues
RE: Calling on Solar Techies

I did do the microwave test today. The batteries were fully charged at 13.2 volts. The sun was out so I was able to pull the trailer out and turn on the Solar. The solar charge controller started charging the Bats at 14.6 volts but since the batteries were already fully charged it dropped to 1.2 volts in a few minutes. I turned on the Inverter and connected the trailer to the inverter. Turned on Microwave voltage dropped to 11.74 for the first 30 seconds then slowly went up to 11.83 for the next 3 minutes and the Microwave timer shut down. IT WAS AWESOME! Worked great. Solar Charge controller charger was at 10.5 volts but slowly dropped down to a trickle so I don't think there was much of a draw on the battery bank. We only use the Microwave to heating coffee or thawing something for a couple of minutes so, this will work out great. The test may have been aided by the Solar but not sure if it works that fast. I think removing that switch from the Inverter power cable must have made a significant improvement.
1L243 02/28/21 06:47pm Tech Issues
RE: Calling on Solar Techies

Seems to be working the way it should. Not clear why it didn't before, but ok now. I did remove the switch that I had between the Inverter and the battery bank. Maybe there was excessive resistance there? Plus I may have terminated the test too soon when I saw it drop below 12 volts. I still don't know why the microwave shut down on the first test. I am going to let the trailer charge overnight then try the microwave tomorrow.
1L243 02/27/21 03:37pm Tech Issues
RE: Calling on Solar Techies

If the dogbone works with shore power to run the MW ok, it will be ok with the inverter. No need to remove the weak battery, just by-pass it with the wiring so it is not in the bank. You really want to know if the bank is suffering with that in there if you want to last another year with those batts. It depends on the first test for loaded voltage with all four. If bad, then try it with the three good ones to see if that fixed it. If not, then look elsewhere. I just did another test of running 900 watt coffee pot. Same Dogbone and AC Power cable as before. No change in battery configuration. Measured in Volts 12.57 Battery level measured at the batteries to start 12.46 After turning on Inverter connected to Trailer 11.80 Coffee pot load on dropped right away It just stayed there for 5 minutes then started creeping up to 11.84 After 6 minutes Turn off load and Inverter After 5 minute battery rest 12.49 at batteries Checked all connections and no hint of getting warm. Any thoughts Corrected I just realized that I had NOT turned off the Inverter after the test. I had only disconnected from it. 12.55 after turning off Inverter
1L243 02/27/21 02:46pm Tech Issues
RE: Calling on Solar Techies

Dogbone is 120v, nothing to do with your 12v. Try this test--with the battery bank as is and no 12v things running, what is the voltage? Then turn on the inverter and run something as big as it will, and what is the voltage now? This is to see if the bank has too much diff between resting and loaded voltages. A bad battery can show decent voltage but collapse under load. Now rewire the bank using just the good batts, isolating the weak one. Do the same test and see what the diff is resting and loaded. The Dogbone is part of the process of getting power to the microwave? I read that some come with 14ga wire which seems a little lite. That could be a factor when running high wattage appliances don't you think. I did find a dogbone that comes with 10ga wire. I will try your voltage test. Do you recommend testing voltage at the batteries or at the Inverter? As far as removing and rewiring the batts, I think I would just replace them all with 6 volts.
1L243 02/27/21 09:42am Tech Issues
RE: Calling on Solar Techies

I was thinking a possible weak link in my test is the 15/30 amp Dogbone adapter I was using at the end of my 20 foot 30amp AC power connection cord. I am thinking of installing a RV outlet inside the storage box next to the Inverter and wire directly to the AC side of the Inverter. Not sure how big of wire I could use maybe 10/2. It would only be about 12" ti 18" to the outlet box location.
1L243 02/27/21 12:44am Tech Issues
RE: Calling on Solar Techies

They are the Costco batteries. I think rated 208 so 416 total. Much debate on what exactly Costco provides and may vary in different regions. No AH rating on the label. No AH meter, I just run 'em hard. When I was looking at the Costco 6 volts over 3 years ago they were rated at 220ah. I was planning on going with them next time. I should have done it to begin with.
1L243 02/26/21 10:58pm Tech Issues
RE: Calling on Solar Techies

I was watching my battery voltage running the MW this past week with this in mind. My 4x GC2 drop to 11.9 right away when the Megatron is powered up using fully charged batteries. I also have about 5' of #4/0 wire. Easily ran the MW 8 minutes cycling 50%. I believe it could have gone much longer. Have run a solid 10 minutes previously but I was not watching voltage. I believe my GoPower shut down is about 10.0 volts. Voltage will always be artificially low at this high draw rate. Manual says the Renogy 2000w inverters low voltage shut down is at 10 volts. I will have to measure at the inverter next time and use a second person in the cabin to run the microwave. What kind of amp hours are you getting with your 4 GC2 batteries.
1L243 02/26/21 10:44pm Tech Issues
RE: Calling on Solar Techies

Where did you measure the 12v? You could see that by the batts but it could be 11v at the inverter's input and trigger the alarm or shut off. Measure at the inverter's input terminals. If the battery with the lower cells is left in the bank, it will drag down the other good batts. You could do better without it. Now you have solar you could get by with a smaller bank in the summer. I was watching the Meter that I installed through a Shunt in the battery box. The Meter is in the cabin so I could watch it at the same time as operating the microwave. This might be a two person test next time. Interesting point about removing the weak battery.
1L243 02/26/21 10:37pm Tech Issues
RE: Calling on Solar Techies

I removed the Inverter switch to the battery bank. I had the switch and a ANL fuse with Holder about 8 inches from the switch. I just made a new 4/0 cable it only added about 5 inches to the run. During the test the Microwave shut down. I'm pretty sure it was at 12 or just under. I will check the manual and see what it says. I'm going to try the test again after removing the switch. As far as the batteries go I think I am going to live with them this year and next spring I will replace all four with 6 volts. I will have to stay lead acid can't afford the more high tech batteries. 6 volts will take me from 340ah to 4440ah. That will be a pretty good improvement. Speaking of cost.. My $1000 system had grown to $1900. My biggest mistake was buying a KIT. A kit is fine if you put it where they designed for it to go. They give you X amount of wire for panel to Charge Controller. If your run is longer as mine was you have to buy new and heavier cable. Also the cable provided for Charge Controller to batteries was only 3 feet that is way unrealistic. Again I had to upgrade to longer heavier cable. I also had to buy several special tools. A large cable cutter to for a nice clean cut on the 4/0 cable. A crimper able to crimp 4/0. MC4 connectors and special MC4 crimper plus a Multimeter that measures more than 10 DC amps. All in all I have learned allot. I think I am going to like it when I'm Dry Camping in Wyoming this summer. Thanks for all the help.
1L243 02/26/21 10:01pm Tech Issues
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