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 > Your search for posts made by '211Racing' found 34 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Rusty Dometic Pilot Light? What dangers lurk ahead?

Thanks to all for the direction(s). Repairing that (eaten down to the nub) ground wire did allow the solenoid to open. Got the fridge lit manually. Working today on getting it to light automatically. ISSUE: Something opaque dripped down from the "flue" onto the burner yesterday after it got good and hot. I'm assuming it was bee's wax. Will explore that today. AND ... I will be checking on recalls along with contacting Atwood to see if they've got that sheet metal part. What's there did clean up well with a small wire brush. Thank you, again.
211Racing 08/26/22 07:23am Tech Issues
RE: Rusty Dometic Pilot Light? What dangers lurk ahead?

OK ... some embarrassment to report. Rats had chewed through (or consumed) every wire in the Dometic mechanical bay. I worked like a "meatball surgeon" to splice it all back together. Today I noticed I missed one ground wire. It grounds (what I'm assuming is) the electromechanical device that opens the solenoid so gas can flow into the ignitor. Rewiring that now. Figured it out by placing a propane "sniffer" all around the ignitor and getting no alarm when attempting to fire it up. Gas was being stopped somewhere. Guessing that is the problem. Still happy I pulled that cowling and got all the rust out. Will disassemble to see what the damage is. Will report back after more wiring. Thank you for your input.
211Racing 08/24/22 11:46am Tech Issues
RE: Rusty Dometic Pilot Light? What dangers lurk ahead?

The roof was compromised in about 15 different spots. Lots of leaks. Lots of labor (mine) to make it right. That's been fixed. I will do some exploratory surgery today to find what all the rust came from.
211Racing 08/24/22 05:14am Tech Issues
Rusty Dometic Pilot Light? What dangers lurk ahead?

This topic has been moved to another forum. You can read it here: 30355994
211Racing 08/23/22 08:17pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
Rusty Dometic Pilot Light? What dangers lurk ahead?

https://i.imgur.com/oKypKg5l.jpg Bringing a Tioga 26' Ford E350 back to life. Got the propane flowing. Stove works. Dometic fridge wouldn't fire. Interior fridge "function" lights come on as they should. Hear a click. Then the "CHECK" light comes on. Pulled the cowling from around the fridge pilot light and it was filled with flaky rust. Is that from a compromised "coil" or similar that creates the refrigeration? I didn't try firing it up again after clearing the pile of rust flakes as it was late. Thank you.
211Racing 08/23/22 08:17pm Tech Issues
RE: Delete a Propane Solenoid Safety Valve?

Thank you. I'll give the LP Detector some attention tomorrow before I delete the solenoid.
211Racing 08/22/22 06:41pm Tech Issues
Delete a Propane Solenoid Safety Valve?

This topic has been moved to another forum. You can read it here: 30355722
211Racing 08/22/22 04:17pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
Delete a Propane Solenoid Safety Valve?

Working and working to get a 2002 Ford Tioga 26' back on the road. Now runs and drives. Working on propane. Needed for fridge, range and water heater. Propane tank is half full (tested with 3 different gauges mounted on tank). Replaced the propane regulator today. Still no propane flowing to any appliance. Cleaned all electrical connections. Didn't help. Thinking the Solenoid Safety Valve is closed/non-functional. It mounts just downstream from the Regulator. I'm reading that they are no longer required or installed. Is it just a matter of deleting this valve and capping off the wires? They run $400-$500 to replace with original. Alternatively, I'm interested in a generic replacement. Your opinions, please. Original Solenoid Safety Valve is Parker NM22-0511.
211Racing 08/22/22 04:17pm Tech Issues
RE: New Roof Time! Can I just layer over the existing plywood?

OK. Got the roof stripped. Why the heck is there a gap at the edge of the roof all the way down both sides? That's where the roofing/membrane failed and water got in. And ... why is a thin layer of (what looks like) fiberglass patch over that gap? Seems unfinished. Also seems like the source of lots of work for me. https://i.imgur.com/jaBA3YOl.jpg "border=0"
211Racing 07/20/22 08:09pm Tech Issues
RE: New Roof Time! Can I just layer over the existing plywood?

I'm not in deep enough into the tear down to get a reading on leaks or mold. I'll remediate that as it appears.
211Racing 05/27/22 06:26pm Tech Issues
RE: New Roof Time! Can I just layer over the existing plywood?

That's what I wanted to hear. Thank you.
211Racing 05/27/22 12:26pm Tech Issues
New Roof Time! Can I just layer over the existing plywood?

Got an old, unkempt 2002 Tioga 25' Class C RV recently (really cheap). Fixed the mechanical issues. Now going after the roof. Whatever they last used for a roof membrane, it is almost completely gone. Bare plywood in many places. Some dry rot. Did exploratory surgery this morning with a hole-saw. See the images. The plywood forming the exterior roof and interior ceiling is approximately 3mm thick. Between that roof and ceiling is 3" of foam (presumably injected). The adhesion between the plywood and foam is very strong. What problems do I cause myself if I leave the current plywood in place, strip, clean and seal it, patch wherever needed, than lay down (put up) a new 5mm plywood layer on the roof and ceiling? This will be a low-use vehicle, mostly for day trips to motocross/hare scramble races (need someplace to cool off). I am willing to accept the added weight. Thank you for your insights and shared experiences. https://i.imgur.com/TSi0vt0l.jpg https://i.imgur.com/NUMHUAbl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/2y0xeyNl.jpg
211Racing 05/27/22 12:07pm Tech Issues
RE: Four (4) Row Radiators? Gimmick or Blessing?

The RV is new to me. Slowly bringing it back to life. No idea or evidence of overheating issues. Just trying to select the best options. I suppose another consideration is if you go from 2 rows to 4 could that keep the engine from reaching optimal operating temperature.
211Racing 04/25/22 12:31pm Tech Issues
Four (4) Row Radiators? Gimmick or Blessing?

I managed to put a crack on the bottom of my radiator (2002 E350 Super Duty 5.4 RV). Act of sheer stupidity. Cannot be fixed. Looking to replace. Factory OEM replacement has 2 rows of tubes. Costs about $180. Aftermarket with 4 rows of tubes costs about $370. Much to consider, as in the tubes might get smaller with more rows, the radiator might get wider (not fit), and the amount of coolant inevitably increases. While I am interested in opinions, I am more interested in someone that took the leap and installed a 4 row radiator. I am in central Texas where it does get good and warm, and will be towing maybe 2000# worth of trailer and dirt bikes. Thanks for your help.
211Racing 04/25/22 11:20am Tech Issues
RE: Tioga Won't Budge after long neglect. Help, please.

That would be a good guess, but it's fuel injected. 5.4 V8. Thinking I've got a vacuum issue. Might need to trace the vacuum line back to the engine and see if I loosened a fitting when I was lowering the tank the first time and didn't know all the lines were so darn short. Working against that theory is the fuel gauge on the dash not registering the 8 gallons of gas I added before starting it up. Still read empty. Still had a "LOW FUEL" light on the dash. The new Delphi Fuel Pump looked and read to be an exact replacement. That's why I chose to replace it completely rather than rebuild the original pump. Other than the "LOW FUEL" light, it is not showing a "CHECK ENGINE" light. I will replace fuses today and see if I can get everything powered up again. Have a Foxwell scanner I just updated with all things FORD. Will see what that shows.
211Racing 04/04/22 05:54am Tech Issues
RE: Tioga Won't Budge after long neglect. Help, please.

Much to share. Not all of it good. Almost all of it educational. Will start with your question(s) and follow with play-by-play. The filler and vent hose ... They were deteriorating but still functional. Covered with black powder that I guessed was the outermost rubber failing. Important note on my rig was that there are two places where there are short runs of rubber line/hose. First is where the fuel tank filler neck and vent hose take a hard turn from the inside of the RV wall to the metal line that turns and then connects to the fuel tank with two more short runs of rubber line. Hose source? Measure the internal diameter of the hose and either order off Amazon, or better still take it into your local autoparts store and put it on them to get you the correct size. Removing the tank: Took great energy and a fair amount of ingenuity. WARNING. There is virtually no slack on the three fuel lines that connect to the fuel pump. If you don't have long slender arms with great grip strength, find someone that does. You need to reach up over the frame, on the port side of the tank, where there's about 4" of clearance, and blindly detach the fuel lines. Same for the electrical connection to the fuel pump, which mounts on top of that frame rail, and the Fuel Pressure Sensor which also runs up over that rail. There are also two vacuum hoses that attach to two separate ports, but they had a bit more slack. I cut new vacuum hoses a wee bit longer and that helped a little in reassembly. Dropping the Tank: It's heavy. I would guess 200lbs. Maybe 250. Completely drained it. Six bolts hold it in place. Don't be distracted by the additional three bolts on the starboard (passenger) side that clamp the tank together. Do not touch them. They do not need to be loosened and will not loosen. I used three jacks to get the job done. One 12 ton bottle jack to raise the port dual wheels so I could get under there and work, and two racing jacks positioned at the front and back of the tank to lower it. Plus lots of jack stands to keep me from getting crushed. Once the tank was down I used a block of wood and a rock as a lever and fulcrum to get the racing jacks out, then dragged it out from under the RV. I had dreamed of doing it all with the tank just resting under the RV, but that was impossible Once the tank got out into the sunshine, things got ugly. As mentioned previously all six bolts sheered off trying to get the old fuel pump off. I ground flat, drilled and tapped the remaining bolt stubs which were welded in place on the inside. The only apparent torque needed on these six bolts is to compress the rubber gasket that seals the pump in place (I hope). I was fortunate to find a new Delphi fuel pump that was a visual match to the old pump. I also replaced the fuel pressure sensor with an identical unit. Replacing the tank: There are two welded-in-place eyelets on top of the tank in opposing corners. I took two cargo strap ratchets and hooked them forward and aft of the tank, hooked them to the tank, and routed them up over the frame. Was able to raise it up enough to place the racing jacks back under the tank. It took about 12 attempts to position the tank so it would exactly match up to the holes (port side) and bolts (starboard side). Reattaching the three fuel lines and two electrical connections is again challenging in that you need to do it blind by reaching up over the frame once the tank is in place. NOW FOR THE HEARTBREAK! Got it all together. Turned the key. Started with a little pump on the gas pedal. Ran rough. Could keep going if you pumped the gas. No pumping the pedal meant it stalled. About the third start I was pumping away, thinking I was clearing a fuel injector issue, when I heard BEEP BEEP BEEP, and everything went dark. Zero power to anything. I gave up and went in for the night. More soon.
211Racing 04/03/22 08:37pm Tech Issues
RE: Tioga Won't Budge after long neglect. Help, please.

That's good advice. The inside of the tank looks great. A small plus is that the rubber filler hose and what I'm assuming are rubber vacuum hoses were looking pretty bad. Will replace all. One less thing to fail from decay out on the road.
211Racing 03/26/22 02:48pm Tech Issues
RE: Tioga Won't Budge after long neglect. Help, please.

Tough day. Pulled the tank. Removed all the lines. Pulled it out from under the RV. Soaked the Fuel Pump bolts with Kroil. Waited a couple hours. Tapped on them a bit to loosen. Then proceeded to snap all 6 off with maybe 10lbs of torque. Two were almost completely rusted through as you see in the image. So ... time to clean all that up and drill/tap those bolt heads (which are welded on the inside). Three of them I almost off until the metal fatigued and failed. Two steps forward, one step back. https://i.imgur.com/BpP3V7ll.jpg "border=0" https://i.imgur.com/m3zZPvb.pngClick For Full-Size Image. https://i.imgur.com/vvGsLDNl.jpg "border=0" https://i.imgur.com/m3zZPvb.pngClick For Full-Size Image.
211Racing 03/26/22 11:52am Tech Issues
RE: Tioga Won't Budge after long neglect. Help, please.

That's good intel. Thank you.
211Racing 03/26/22 11:23am Tech Issues
RE: Tioga Won't Budge after long neglect. Help, please.

I'm guessing so. I haven't traced any lines. No idea if the generator runs (not looking forward to trying). Non-functional fuel pump and no house battery means the carburetor will need to be patient.
211Racing 03/23/22 07:11pm Tech Issues
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