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 > Your search for posts made by 'Atlee' found 4 matches.

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RE: Tires

I'm on my second set of Maxxis 8008's, and I have been very pleased with them. I also had my axles aligned and have been running balancing beads for several years. How much effect those two things on tire performance cannot be underestimated. But, the original tires were Kenda, and I'll never buy another one. I bought on line and tires were two years old when received, so pretty good for the price. The last thing I need when camping is mechanical issues, tires, brakes, springs, etc. Have been very satisfied with Maxxis performance. The only trailer tire I've had that failed was a Maxxis 8008. Was a 14" version on a 21 foot Skyline Koala. The steel belt broke. I was lucky, I noticed it while parked. The steel belt had broken. I was lucky a) I had to stop and use the trailer's bath room, b) The business parking lot I stopped in was covered with a white powdery substance, c) it was the front right tire, d) I came to a stop with the correct portion of the tire showing, e) I happened to notice the tread pattern outlined in white was strange looking. Only maybe the center couple of inches of the tread were covered in white dust. From the tread shoulders in to about the center 2 inches of the tire tread, were not touching the surface. The other 3 quarters of the tire was covered in white powder from tread shoulder to tread shoulder. This was in southern South Carolina on US-17. Put the spare down on the ground and continued home to Virginia. They had a fair amount of miles on them, so I just replaced all of them with the then new Carlisle HD's. The tire dealer said the steel belt had broken. Don't know about now, but those old Maxxis M8008's were limited to speeds no greater than 65 mph. The new Carlisle's were rated in the 80's, not that I would ever think about driving that fast. I just feel the higher rating gives extra margin of safety from heat damage.
Atlee 08/24/19 07:55am Travel Trailers
RE: "leaking" fridge has caused trim to start rotting

My Norcold came with a drip pan external to the fridge, but inside the exterior vent. I guess the idea was for the water to drip in the pan, and let evaporation take care of the water. However, I was always afraid evaporation would not take care of the water and the excess water would splash out of the pan. I solved that problem. I just stuck the drain line outside the fridge vent. Now any excess water from the fridge drops harmlessly to the ground.
Atlee 08/15/19 06:06am General RVing Issues
RE: Extended warranty

For me, and extended "warranty" isn't necessarily a bad thing. If they worked like they are supposed to. I know some folks will say they are not worth it, that they owned their RV for X number of years and never had a problem. This is true, but I view an extended "warranty" as I would health insurance. If you never have to use the health insurance, was it a waste of money to have health insurance? For me, the rub comes in for 2 reasons. 1) They are usually way over priced, a nice profit center for the selling dealer. 2) Almost all of the stories I've read on the various RV boards I frequent, indicate these "warranty" companies do every thing in their power to deny coverage. That's why I would never pay for a 3rd party "warranty".
Atlee 08/15/19 05:42am Travel Trailers
RE: Is a converter upgrade necessary anymore?

WFCO's 8955 is no different than it's ever been, mine never charges beyond ~ 13.7 volts, turned it off and instead use a stand alone CTEK charger that does a proper 14.4 volt bulk charge. yep our wfco 8955 never charges past 13.7 either. when it dies i will upgrade but because we don't boondock or dry camp it has served us and the 2 cheapo wally world 12v deep cycle batteries ok... our fridge is residential so xantrex freedom inverter and the 2 12 volts have been all we needed on longer road trips. I didn't wait for my WFCO converter to die. I replaced it less than a year after I bought my 2017 J Flight 23RB new. Replaced it with the Wildkat 4655L M(ain)B(oard)A(ssembly). The L means it has a jumper so you can charge Li-on batteries. It's powered by Progressive Dynamics and is an easy replacement kit. Got it from Best Converters. It comes with the pendant that shows, at a glance, at which level it's charging, Boost, Normal, Maintenance, and De-sulfication. It retains use of the OEM AC breakers and the DC fuse panel. $213 for the kit, as I type. Kept the one replaced and carry it with me in the trailer. Should for some strange reason, the PD die, I could do "surgery" in the field until a permanent correction was made.
Atlee 07/17/19 12:07am Travel Trailers
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