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 > Your search for posts made by 'Atlee' found 43 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Tires

I'm on my second set of Maxxis 8008's, and I have been very pleased with them. I also had my axles aligned and have been running balancing beads for several years. How much effect those two things on tire performance cannot be underestimated. But, the original tires were Kenda, and I'll never buy another one. I bought on line and tires were two years old when received, so pretty good for the price. The last thing I need when camping is mechanical issues, tires, brakes, springs, etc. Have been very satisfied with Maxxis performance. The only trailer tire I've had that failed was a Maxxis 8008. Was a 14" version on a 21 foot Skyline Koala. The steel belt broke. I was lucky, I noticed it while parked. The steel belt had broken. I was lucky a) I had to stop and use the trailer's bath room, b) The business parking lot I stopped in was covered with a white powdery substance, c) it was the front right tire, d) I came to a stop with the correct portion of the tire showing, e) I happened to notice the tread pattern outlined in white was strange looking. Only maybe the center couple of inches of the tread were covered in white dust. From the tread shoulders in to about the center 2 inches of the tire tread, were not touching the surface. The other 3 quarters of the tire was covered in white powder from tread shoulder to tread shoulder. This was in southern South Carolina on US-17. Put the spare down on the ground and continued home to Virginia. They had a fair amount of miles on them, so I just replaced all of them with the then new Carlisle HD's. The tire dealer said the steel belt had broken. Don't know about now, but those old Maxxis M8008's were limited to speeds no greater than 65 mph. The new Carlisle's were rated in the 80's, not that I would ever think about driving that fast. I just feel the higher rating gives extra margin of safety from heat damage.
Atlee 08/24/19 07:55am Travel Trailers
RE: "leaking" fridge has caused trim to start rotting

My Norcold came with a drip pan external to the fridge, but inside the exterior vent. I guess the idea was for the water to drip in the pan, and let evaporation take care of the water. However, I was always afraid evaporation would not take care of the water and the excess water would splash out of the pan. I solved that problem. I just stuck the drain line outside the fridge vent. Now any excess water from the fridge drops harmlessly to the ground.
Atlee 08/15/19 06:06am General RVing Issues
RE: Extended warranty

For me, and extended "warranty" isn't necessarily a bad thing. If they worked like they are supposed to. I know some folks will say they are not worth it, that they owned their RV for X number of years and never had a problem. This is true, but I view an extended "warranty" as I would health insurance. If you never have to use the health insurance, was it a waste of money to have health insurance? For me, the rub comes in for 2 reasons. 1) They are usually way over priced, a nice profit center for the selling dealer. 2) Almost all of the stories I've read on the various RV boards I frequent, indicate these "warranty" companies do every thing in their power to deny coverage. That's why I would never pay for a 3rd party "warranty".
Atlee 08/15/19 05:42am Travel Trailers
RE: Is a converter upgrade necessary anymore?

WFCO's 8955 is no different than it's ever been, mine never charges beyond ~ 13.7 volts, turned it off and instead use a stand alone CTEK charger that does a proper 14.4 volt bulk charge. yep our wfco 8955 never charges past 13.7 either. when it dies i will upgrade but because we don't boondock or dry camp it has served us and the 2 cheapo wally world 12v deep cycle batteries ok... our fridge is residential so xantrex freedom inverter and the 2 12 volts have been all we needed on longer road trips. I didn't wait for my WFCO converter to die. I replaced it less than a year after I bought my 2017 J Flight 23RB new. Replaced it with the Wildkat 4655L M(ain)B(oard)A(ssembly). The L means it has a jumper so you can charge Li-on batteries. It's powered by Progressive Dynamics and is an easy replacement kit. Got it from Best Converters. It comes with the pendant that shows, at a glance, at which level it's charging, Boost, Normal, Maintenance, and De-sulfication. It retains use of the OEM AC breakers and the DC fuse panel. $213 for the kit, as I type. Kept the one replaced and carry it with me in the trailer. Should for some strange reason, the PD die, I could do "surgery" in the field until a permanent correction was made.
Atlee 07/17/19 12:07am Travel Trailers
RE: I hate dinettes

I fixed the problem of the squishy foam used by the manufacturer. I took the foam from one of the cushion bottoms down to the local foam store. I asked for and got the best foam they had, and had them cut two to fix the cover. Made such a huge difference. Unfortunately, the sofa foam is another story. It's a much more complicated foam cut, and haven't tackled it yet. Back to the dinette for a moment. I left the original foam in the back rest cushions. They are fine with no more pressure than they get.
Atlee 06/30/19 02:16am General RVing Issues
RE: How to add support to my Short Queen?

We have our brand new Jayco Jay Flight SLX 8 212QBW. You can use the link to see the floor plan. https://www.jayco.com/products/travel-trailers/2019-jay-flight-slx-8-west/212qbw/ The bed is an island short queet. Underneath the bed is the bow storage. By lifting the foot of the bed it will hinge upward and hold by two pistons so you can access the bow storage from inside. Kind of neat. We are complete newbies and are slowly trying out all the features while it's parked in the driveway so we figure out any major problems before hitting the road. Recently we slept for the first time in the trailer. No surprise we find the mattress on a board is just too uncomfortable. I've ordered a 4" topper to try and solve that. My issue I'm trying to address next is the board used under the mattress is a single plank of composite wood. There is no support structure other than the 2" frame of the cabinet/storage area under the bed. With both my wife and I on the bed there were a couple "pops" in the night from the wood. I did inspect it in the morning and there were no obvious splits or cracks but it drives me to ask how I could reinforce this. My problem is just putting in a thicker piece of would will likely exceed the lift capacity of the pistons that hold up the bed. I'm imagining something under the wood on the frame to create support would be the best approach but I'm looking for suggestions. Has anyone dealt with this issue and what did you find successful? I would invite you to join the Jayco forums, if you haven't already. There some folks over there who know a lot about Jayco products. You can get there at www.jaycoowners.com/forums/. I'm one of those who modified my pass through/under bed storage who are in the link to Jayco forums. When I did mine, I kept the old 1/4" or so platform, just cutting it so only the portion over the under bed storage opened. I probably should have gone to 3/8" or 1/2" plywood for the platform, but the original has, to date, served me well. Some who have added a partition between the pass through and under bed have left the bed platform in it's original length and keep it hinged up at the very top of the bed. I didn't. The portion over the pass through is screwed down permanently. On mine, only the portion of the platform over the under bed storage will lift now.
Atlee 06/30/19 01:50am Travel Trailers
RE: In our future. 2016 Jayco feather 23rlsw

We hope to get this TT by the end of the week. Any pros or cons of any owners out there? Thanks. Have you visited www.jaycoowners.com/forum yet? You should find some owners of the particular TT you are considering. I don't know much about your particular line - Jayco Featherlite. I have the very old school, "stick and tin" Jay Flight line.
Atlee 06/25/19 02:31am Travel Trailers
RE: Quality Class C 24’ for towing boat

The Jayco Redhawk would be a good choice if it would fit your needs,there is a few options in floorplans It also comes on a Chevy Chassis which would give you a better ride,more room inside and you will get a tad bit better mileage among other things. I like the Redhawk because it has a full fiberglass cap over the entire cab overhand. I may be wrong, but I like the idea of having no seams on the front edge of cab overhang. I may be wrong, but it seems to me that having no exposed seams to any driven water as you drive down the road in rainy weather is a good thing. Also, there are some other class C's that at least have a partial cap that covers the front seams. Those would be acceptable to me.
Atlee 06/25/19 02:20am Class C Motorhomes
Question for Class A owners.

Giving some thought to eventually moving from my current travel trailer to either a Class A or Class C motorized MH. One thing that has me perplexed is how are the engines on Class A's repaired? How can mechanics get to the engine for major engine work? It seems as if the MH is literally built over and around the engine. Are special repair facilities needed? I doubt you can go to your local Ford dealer in the case of a Ford chassis Class A gasser. Thanks for any information.
Atlee 06/14/19 03:43am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Leveling and turning on your refrigerator?

only time you MUST TURN OFF is when fueling or you could be on the 6pm news. Exactly how far away from the gas pumps do you stop in order to turn off the fridge? And exactly how far away from the gas pumps do you stop in order to turn the fridge back on?
Atlee 06/11/19 01:29am Beginning RVing
RE: Could it be simply a matter of more air in the tires?

Sorry, you meant the basic shape of the individual treads was very similar. Much like 2 trucks can look the same, same bed, same year, same color and be totally different. Those 2 tires are effectively way different tread. Yeah, tread pattern would have been a better term perhaps.
Atlee 05/30/19 09:46pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Could it be simply a matter of more air in the tires?

Squirmy new tires, it'll go away. FWIW, they are not the same basic tread design, not even close. Rugged Trails (cute name, considering they are one of the harder compound, non snow, non AT, non mud tires out there) are pure pavement pounder tires. Great wear, no noise, smooth. BFG AT's are almost the exact opposite. Just about as aggressive of an AT tire as you can buy before it's considered a mud tire. Excellent traction in all conditions. Not loud, but louder than highway tires. Softer compound, wear quicker. Great tires, just different than your previous tires. The tread design is exactly the same. What I call "dog bone". The center cleat looks like a dog bone. I do agree the "Rugged Trail" tires aren't that aggressive. This is especially true on the shoulder of the tires. The block tread on the outside and inside shoulder are large and very separated. I think that is where some of the extra 3 pounds and extra .5" width of the tread comes in.
Atlee 05/30/19 11:37am Tow Vehicles
Could it be simply a matter of more air in the tires?

Last Thursday, I replaced the OEM BF Goodrich Rugged Trail LT245/75R17 LRE tires with the identical sized BF Goodrich All Terrain KO2 tire. Up until last Thursday, my truck with the OEM tires (always inflated to 55# front/60# rear per the yellow sticker on the door jam) and the Jay Flight 23RB trailer were an extremely stable combo. 99.9% of all passing 18 wheelers never wiggled the combo. Normal winds had little effect. However, the first tow with the new tires and same trailer, loaded about the same, was closer to a white knuckle affair. The air pressure in the new tires was the same as the OEM tires, 55# front/60# rear. Would it help if the new tires were aired up more? Say to 65 or 70 in the rears, and 5 to 10 pounds more in the front? The basic tread design is exactly the same between the two tires. However, the new tires are 3 pounds heavier per tire, has a slightly deeper tread, and counting the heavier, larger shoulder lugs, is about .5 inches wider. Any thoughts?
Atlee 05/30/19 05:34am Tow Vehicles
RE: What are your yearly registration costs for your truck?

Virginia-2014 F150 8200# GVWR-$60.75 State inspection-Annual-$15
Atlee 05/30/19 05:23am Tow Vehicles
RE: Generator etiquette

If you're in a camp area without electric, but still there are others around, how late is it okay to run your generator into the evening? And are generators in MHs more quiet that setting one up outside a TT? Depends. The two CG's in Grand Teton NP, and Yellowstone NP allow generators from 8AM to 8PM. No exceptions. I don't have any experience camping on BLM land, but there, if no others are around, run them 24/7 if you like. I do all my college's home football games. I, along with nearly everyone else, will run our generators 24/7. But they are the Honda/Yamaha/Champion inverter type, not the open frame construction type. During early September games, when it hot and humid, I will run both Hondas 24/7. Later in the year, I only need to run one Honda on Eco mode.
Atlee 05/30/19 04:46am Beginning RVing
RE: Travel Trailer License Plate Necessary?

I think some one is pulling some ones leg!That may be. I googled this and could only find VA that issues a one-time plate to the owner. OP could return but I'm not holding my breath. Yes, Virginia does issue a permanent trailer plate, but it still must be attached to the outside of the trailer. I have a permanent plate on my trailer. If I keep my trailer 3 years, then I'm slightly ahead $ wise. Fourth year and forward, it's all gravy.
Atlee 05/30/19 03:55am Travel Trailers
RE: First time TT trip AZ to VA

Can't emphasize enough the other posters advice on getting new trailer tires. Unless the current tires have been put on new within the last couple of years, you need to replace them before leaving Tucson. And even if they are new within the last couple of years, you still need to examine them closely to make sure they haven't developed cracks in the tread or sidewall.
Atlee 05/15/19 05:15am Beginning RVing
RE: Stand-alone GPS or smartphone?

I use a Garmin RV 660. I like it. Wish I had it last June and July of 2018 when we made our trip to the Rockies and high plains. On that trip, we had my old Garmin Nuvi 855. My navigator will use her phone to check traffic on the road we're using from time to time, especially if we're going through an urban or built up suburban area.
Atlee 05/15/19 05:03am Beginning RVing
RE: 3/4 ton diesel's and payload / GVWR issues

To OP, If you're considering a diesel engine, go straight to 350/3500 country. An 250/2500 3/4 ton truck carries nearly a 900# cargo penalty just due to the weight of the diesel engine compared to the gas engine in the 3/4 ton trucks. If my current F150 with the HDPP (2286# cargo capacity) were totaled, and I wasn't, I'd think strongly of replacing it with a F250 gasser. I'd pick up nearly a thousand pounds of cargo capacity. However, if I were to consider a diesel engine, I'd go straight to the F350.
Atlee 05/14/19 05:26am Tow Vehicles
RE: Rubber Roof Cleaner and Protectant

I would never trust the owner's manual to tell me what type of roof is on my trailer, at least, WRT a Jayco trailer and accompanying manual. Maybe a Winnebago manual is different. My manual is so generic, it's nearly useless. I have to go to the individual info on different systems that's included in the owner's bag to find out what is actually built into the trailer, and what's needed for cleaning, etc. I doubt even Winnebago puts out a manual for each and every model TT they make. And I doubt they change said manual whenever a component changes from trailer to trailer. Case in point. My manual talks about how to by-pass the water heater when winterizing. According to the manual, to by-pass a water heater, one needs to turn two valves one way, and the third valve the other. That's fine, except, Jayco changed the by pass system on my particular model year trailer, to a two valve only by-pass system. You really need to check the information packets included in the owner's information bag to know for sure what type of roof, or other components you have in your particular trailer. "The roof in the picture is not rubber. EPDM Rubber does not have a texture as in the picture. My bet would be it is Alpha Systems Superflex or possibly a TPO, but the texture sure looks like Superflex. I don't believe you ever mentioned the brand or year of trailer but most Thor and Forest River brands, Grand Design, Winnebago towables etc. use Superflex, and have for quite a few years." ---------------------- I appreciate the feedback. My TT is a 2016 Winnebago Micro Minnie, I checked the owners manual, and it indicates the TT has a rubber roof, and just wash with a granulated household cleaner and water. Also to NOT use a UV protectant. But I am going to call Winnebago, give them the specific VIN number to confirm the roof material. https://i.imgur.com/LVT9Fgkl.jpg "border=0"
Atlee 05/14/19 05:13am General RVing Issues
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