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 > Your search for posts made by 'BFL13' found 1185 matches.

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RE: Ford Starting /House Charging Question

BFL13, What chassis is it? Ford? GM? or other? What motor? The rig in my sig, photo in Profile. In case you can't see that from where you are, it is a 1991 Ford E350 gasser. Called an "incomplete". They sell those to companies that make ambulances or RVs
BFL13 01/19/20 07:07pm Tech Issues
RE: Ford Starting /House Charging Question

I suspected that the "combiner/isolator" (same thing) would energize before the starter got started, but in my case it does not, as described earlier. If it did energize before the starter starts, then that must mean the house batteries always help the engine battery start the starter. LY gave some thoughts on that. I have only long #10 wire to the house batts positive side (frame neg), so to take real advantage if the isolator energized first, I would need fatter wire on that path. So I like mine the way it is. I don't know what the other MHs do for wire gauge on the house battery side of the isolator where they also have that dash rocker switch as described in the other thread.
BFL13 01/19/20 06:36pm Tech Issues
RE: Ford Starting /House Charging Question

I am confused by all terms. How can the key be in run and the engine not started? Isn't "run" next after "ignition"? (1. release steering wheel, 2. ACC, 3. ignition, 4. run) This one has "run" before "start" https://dannysengineportal.com/ignition-switch/ I saw somewhere that run was after when the various warning lights on the dash turn off just after it starts. I think that is when my isolator is energized. EDIT some more: In desperation I looked at the driver's manual :) and it explains there are five positions with my MH. Acc, Lock, Off, On, and Start. "On" is when you can see if the dash warning lights work(except the brake) "Start" cranks the engine, then the key returns to "On" and stays there while the engine runs
BFL13 01/19/20 01:55pm Tech Issues
RE: Ford Starting /House Charging Question

Confirmed in my rig that the isolator is not energized until after the engine starts running. Voltage on the ignition wire in the middle of the solenoid does not rise until after the engine starts. Before that, as the key goes through its steps there are two loud clicks from below somewhere on the passenger side and then it starts. That must be the other solenoid I can't see. Voltmeter on the house batts also shows no change until the engine is running--definite time delay there before voltage starts to rise. Thanks everyone for explaining how all this works.
BFL13 01/19/20 11:21am Tech Issues
RE: Ford Starting /House Charging Question

This covers what everybody has been trying to explain. What I don't know about my rig (yet) is whether the isolator is energized in the key's (pre-starting) ignition position. or just after it starts. https://expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/whats-the-big-difference-in-a-battery-isolator-versus-starter-solenoid.76484/ That says (scroll down) you can rig it either way to energize it.
BFL13 01/19/20 08:48am Tech Issues
RE: Ford Starting /House Charging Question

The one solenoid I can see would be the isolation one, with the wire going to the house batteries coming out one side of it. I get "alternator charging" with the engine running and not when the engine is off. ISTR a test where I had a voltmeter on the engine battery during starting. Voltage first fell to 11.x then jumped to 14.x. So I will do that with the house batteries, which should answer my question, I hope. Plan is to turn the key very slowly watching house battery voltage. (with multimeter, not Trimetric, which has a smoothing delay to it.) I should also be able to do something at the solenoid itself with the voltmeter and possibly hear something. Will report later today.
BFL13 01/19/20 07:51am Tech Issues
RE: Ford Starting /House Charging Question

I am confused about start relay and charge relay, and start and run, and my apparently one solenoid. I will do some research to see if I can then understand the replies above. Also poke around with the voltmeter. T ! :)
BFL13 01/18/20 10:50pm Tech Issues
RE: Ford Starting /House Charging Question

I only have the one solenoid by the engine battery on the passenger side.fender It has the starter and battery wires on one side via some sort of buss bar, and the house batteries on the other side via circuit breaker next to solenoid with the ignition wire in the middle. I don't have a second solenoid that I know of. No batteries on the driver's side. House batts are back in the RV part. I got all confused by that other thread, but got to wondering if with my set-up, just when that solenoid closed to put the house batts in parallel with the engine battery. If it is as soon as you turn the key, I wonder if that means the house batteries always assist in starting. Or does that solenoid only close after the engine cranks? I gather that the ignition wire in the middle is what operates the solenoid?
BFL13 01/18/20 09:16pm Tech Issues
Ford Starting /House Charging Question

The solenoid in the sig rig only closes the line between the engine battery/starter/alternator and the house batts when the engine is "on". What happens when you turn the key to start the engine? At some point the solenoid closes so the house and engine battery/alternator are linked and the alternator can charge the house batts. Is there a point at which the key is turned and the starter has not yet cranked the engine, when the house and engine batts are all on line to provide the amps to operate the starter? Or is it just the engine batt doing that, and the house batts are connected to the alternator afterwards? I know the alternator can't do anything until the engine is running to turn the belt, but is the line connected before that? Thanks.
BFL13 01/18/20 07:27pm Tech Issues
RE: Electric Slides Motor

Often the slides (and awning?) are powered directly from the battery, not from the DC fuse panel. Might be two positive red wires on the battery, one for the DC fuse panel (and converter) and the other for that. The positive wire for the slides should have a fuse on it near the battery or maybe a DC circuit breaker that can be reset.
BFL13 01/18/20 02:10pm Tech Issues
RE: Need help replacing charging circuit solenoid.

I re-read this thread and got confused over the terminology so thought there were two different solenoids. This post by "Poppy" in another forum about a 1989 RV might clear that up. (Another post suggested the fender mounted relay might have a bad ground, but that wasn't it--however it might??? have to do with the loss of voltage while driving issue???) "Kerri, We are referring to the same thing... soliniod, fender mounted starter relay. Of those two large posts, one goes to the battery, the other to the starter. The small post gets power from your ignition switch when you turn the key to start. If you jumper power from the battery to the small post, and the starter cranks, then the solinoid is good. If it does not crank, the solinoid may be bad so the next step would be to jumper the large posts. You might use a screwdriver... it will spark! If it cranks, the solinoid is bad and needs to be replaced. If it still does not crank, if your connections to the starter are clean and tight, and the battery cables are clean and tight, your starter is probably bad, you can pull it and have it tested. It probably needs to be replaced. Poppy, Jun 18, 2012"
BFL13 01/18/20 10:14am Tech Issues
RE: Need help replacing charging circuit solenoid.

Blf Where is the charge solenoid You don't need long jumper cables You just need to jump the heavy terminals together on the solenoid To connect the two systems I have done it numerous times on other RVs For people that didn't know You are right. I'll see if that works. It is a long run of #10 from the solenoid/starter to the house though. Solenoid is up front with the engine battery.
BFL13 01/17/20 09:19pm Tech Issues
RE: Need help replacing charging circuit solenoid.

So with no house charging from alternator, the engine battery showed low voltage as though no alternator, but new alternator same thing. You might have had a big house draw that should have been taken by the house batts that was taken by the engine batt, lowering the voltage. I saw that with a loaded inverter clamped on my truck engine batt where the alternator could not keep the battery up and its voltage fell. (Not a MH situation, but still...) First thing is to isolate the house from the engine entirely and make sure the alternator can run the engine batt and straight truck type loads ok. Then see what is going wrong when you link in the house side.
BFL13 01/17/20 07:54pm Tech Issues
RE: Need help replacing charging circuit solenoid.

Got lost with the second solenoid. But still want to know about why the loss of voltage as was asked about earlier. Seems to be a separate "issue". (loose belt eg) You could by-pass the second solenoid and be like we are if you wanted IMO. Our 1991 E350 in sig has only the one relay, which charges the house batts whenever the engine is on, but is open when the engine is not on. (Don't know about when the ignition key is turned but not to engine on) No extra button in our rig to push that engages house to engine batts like you have. So in our E350, if the engine battery were dead, I would have to run jumper cables from house to engine batts (a long way, but I have some that long).
BFL13 01/17/20 06:24pm Tech Issues
RE: Porch light

I replaced ours with a brighter light on a swivel mounting that gives more light out where you want it. Only the top around needs to be "flat" so rain water doesn't get down in behind it. (For aluminum siding issues). You just use the 12v wires for the OEM light for the new one. Use new holes to screw it on. In our case the dog portable fenced-in area outside the door was not lit up well by the OEM light, so you couldn't see if they did their business or not at night before bedtime. Now you can see what they are doing from the window.
BFL13 01/17/20 05:25pm Tech Issues
RE: 12 v to 12 v trickle charger

The Pinella guy uses one of these, but it needs 120v input. So that is the inverter's job. He says it fits in the compartment with the gen's battery. I am unsure of his boost idea plugging it into the gen's 120v while using the gen's 12v charger to charge a battery. ISTR you should not/cannot use the 120v while running the DC charger. https://www.pinellaspowerproducts.com/product/adventure-power-battery-maintainer-4000/
BFL13 01/17/20 01:24pm Tech Issues
RE: 12 v to 12 v trickle charger

LY, ISTR the buck converters in MPPT solar controllers need the input voltage to be 1 volt higher than the battery voltage at the output or nothing will happen. Not sure that is the same thing though. I will try to find that reference. EDIT My two MPPTs just say the input voltage has to be higher. Not by how much. Can't remember where I saw that 1 volt spec.
BFL13 01/17/20 11:31am Tech Issues
RE: 12 v to 12 v trickle charger

I used the behind the cab in front of the box 7-pin on my 2003 Chev truck with the gen in the box. It gave 12v to the gen's battery connectors (no gen battery) and I was able to start the gen with the key for electric starting. However, note that the Chev does not use a relay. 12v to the 7-pin is always live with a 40a fuse to it (Stud 1). I still say take the battery out and no more worries about it going flat. Just attach some 12v tied in with the remote start, except don't use your 4-pin and relay. Use the house batteries or a converter powered by the inverter. ISTR you sometimes like to use the gen battery for its extra surge absorption with that gen? Don't know if that is too valuable to give up on.
BFL13 01/16/20 10:05am Tech Issues
RE: emergency start has been hardwired?

IMO it’s time to hire a pro mechanic for your almost thirty year old rig. That is un-called for! :)
BFL13 01/14/20 07:09pm Tech Issues
RE: 12 v to 12 v trickle charger

If that is the generator battery, how do you clamp on the charger? I had a Honda 3000 with a battery in it that died the first year because I didn't run the gen much. But the battery was inside the gen. I never got a new battery, but I had the gen wires that go on the battery extended out of the battery compartment of the gen, where I could then attach "live" 12v from a charger, or from the 7-pin with adapter I made, or from a battery in the truck bed beside the gen. Not too clear what your plan is, but it might be that if you have the proposed float charger on it, you don't need the battery itself. 12v from the float charger should be enough to start the gen. No idea how the remote ties in. You will have 120v for the charger from your inverter (which has solar for its battery bank) so you don't need to ever start the gen without any 120v handy. If so, there is always the pull cord.
BFL13 01/14/20 05:16pm Tech Issues
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