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 > Your search for posts made by 'BFL13' found 1220 matches.

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RE: Dashboard Alternator light

His sig says: https://www.rvusa.com/rv-guide/2015-winnebago-travato-class-b-floorplan-59g-tr24274 Seems to be the big brother to the Ram ProMaster City van I did the test with. :) Edit--except ProMasters are Rams, so how can it have a Ford in it? Our little van has a Dodge engine and transmission
BFL13 08/02/21 05:59pm Tech Issues
RE: Dashboard Alternator light

So if that light on means the alternator is shut down, the only amps coming in are from the solar and batteries. Not many solar amps, so battery will run down but with the house batts also on line, that would take longer. The solar controller would stay in Bulk but not be able to keep the battery voltage at 14.6 for long. What happens next? In my test when the charger was removed, the voltage went back down to spec, but the light stayed on. I don't know if the alternator came back on. It did when I restarted. Pretty simple. When the line voltage drops, the regulator does its job and sends voltage to the rotor winds and the generator goes back to work. Richard In my test, I was not able to tell if the alternator stopped charging when the voltage got to 14.99 and the engine stumbled but then kept running. The red light came on. Then with charger removed , voltage fell to 13.8ish and the light stayed on. I think that means the alternator was on then, or voltage would have dropped to 12.x and not been 13.8ish. So at that point the alternator was on but the red light was on too. I don't know if the alternator ever quit, or just got left behind on supplying amps to the loads when the charger's voltage got the battery higher than the alternator's. Whatever, the OP wants max amps while driving at the proper voltage for his batts, which is high enough to make his red light come on. He needs to test when that happens with the monitor set to read the amps to the house batts and not just read the voltage. He needs to see if the alternator is supplying amps added to the solar amps or not when that happens. If not, then a Dc-Dc charger could help, where it isolates the alternator system from the house system, but still supplies amps to the house to add to the solar's amps, and it can be set to the same proper battery spec voltage as the solar's so they both add their amps fully. Without them being at the same charging voltage, once the batts get to a higher voltage than the alternator's voltage, no more amps from that source. If the RV has a gen that can be run while driving, then the OP could have three chargers on the house to bring them up faster like he wants, if he can set the charger run by the gen to the same voltage as the other two are at. Refer to the thread(s) on how many amps of a DC-Dc charger can be used with how many amps the alternator is so it won't over-heat the alternator. In there is also the way to reduce the DC-Dc draw on the engine batt/ alternator by using fatter wire for the DC-Dc-input. Also, get more amps by maxing out the roof space with solar if it isn't already.
BFL13 08/02/21 12:51pm Tech Issues
RE: Dashboard Alternator light

OK, so with over-voltage with the new vehicles (is the OP's that new?) and the battery red dash light comes on from the solar's voltage being over spec, does the alternator shut down or not? If it does,, will it come back on by itself if the voltage is reduced to within spec (by adding load maybe) Are there model years where it won't matter like my 1991, but it does matter starting about ? year, where the alternator does shut down, but then later years than that ? year, the alternator stays on and just the light stays on too? If so, then members will know what to do depending on what year their RVs are. I had that engine stumble reported earlier, but that 2016 van is a Fiat, made in Turkey with parts from everywhere, so not sure it is typical.
BFL13 08/01/21 08:13pm Tech Issues
RE: Dashboard Alternator light

So if that light on means the alternator is shut down, the only amps coming in are from the solar and batteries. Not many solar amps, so battery will run down but with the house batts also on line, that would take longer. The solar controller would stay in Bulk but not be able to keep the battery voltage at 14.6 for long. What happens next? In my test when the charger was removed, the voltage went back down to spec, but the light stayed on. I don't know if the alternator came back on. It did when I restarted.
BFL13 08/01/21 03:16pm Tech Issues
RE: Dashboard Alternator light

Doug has put us out of our (and his!) misery. I ran a test with our newest vehicle, a 2016 Ram Promaster City van. Idling and warmed up showing 13.79 voltage at battery with multimeter, no battery dash light. Using adjustable voltage deck mount converter with clamps on the wires (PowerMax LK) I set voltage to 14.6 and clamped on. Nothing happened, no light. Cranked the voltage up slowly and the engine stumbled but kept running when voltage was 14.99, looked at dash and the battery light was on bright red. Disconnected charger and battery voltage back to 13.8ish but light still on. Turned off the ignition and restarted. All normal, no red battery light I am not sure it is ok to keep driving with the light on from over-voltage like that, seeing how mine had that engine stumble (almost died then back on full) when the voltage reached whatever it didn't like, but I have no knowledge of all that.
BFL13 08/01/21 09:41am Tech Issues
RE: Dashboard Alternator light

What I don't know. I'm still not convinced that Ford didn't program the idiot light to show an over voltage condition. I disagree ! As stated, the PCM controls the voltage. If it is not within the range of the desired voltage, the light come on. That range is very small. Suspect it is the light circuit getting grounded ( he says, "earthed") when solar comes on or getting a high resistance from the solar coming on, which will make the dash light come on it says here: https://www.howacarworks.com/ignition-system/troubleshooting-the-ignition-warning-light
BFL13 08/01/21 07:43am Tech Issues
RE: Dashboard Alternator light

Please keep us informed! An interesting puzzle for sure. Not clear on why a boost button at all when the control centre does that anyway. Also you have a Trimetric with shunt on the engine batt plus the Victron reading the engine batt's voltage but no shunt, which is on the house batts? Any way there can be confusion with the two monitors on the engine batt that might light up the red lamp when solar is on but not when solar is off? Too many moving parts for my tiny mind! :) I would still worry whether the engine batt is really getting charged with that light on. I would want a second opinion (multimeter) besides whatever the Victron is saying via your phone. Best of luck solving the puzzle!
BFL13 07/31/21 07:41pm Tech Issues
RE: Dashboard Alternator light

Thanks for the background info, it helps. You have a puzzle there! In my C the solar just charges the house batts. I do get alternator charging also to the house batts whenever I turn on the ignition, via an isolator. I do not have a boost switch to use the house batts to start the engine, but (I am not sure) they might do that anyway since the ignition would be on then, but with a dead engine batt, maybe the run circuit would not be live to close the isolator. Hmmmm, have to look at that. Anyway, you also have that monitor that links both battery sets so it could be a suspect. I just have a Trimetric monitor on the house batts. I have a friend with a 2007 C that has one of those boxes by the house battery that contains the isolator and some other fuses etc, not sure how it all works. My isolator is up by the engine battery. I just can't figure how the solar can make your red dash light come on, and then how you can test for any alternator charging when both batts are getting charged, maybe only from solar. Weird. I do think something is wired wrong, but can't think what it could be. That dash boost switch might be part of this if it is stuck closed. You would always get house batt voltage to the engine batt that way, but no red light. Can you try it with solar but without the Victron? Or at least with the Victron's connection to the engine batt disconnected?
BFL13 07/31/21 05:56pm Tech Issues
RE: Dashboard Alternator light

You saw charging to both battery sets with the dash red light on but you don't know if the alternator was doing any charging then or all from solar. After you cut the solar off and the light went out, do you get any charging to the house batts or just to the engine batt since you did this installation of the solar and monitor? You need a test to measure if any alternator charging to engine batt with the light on and not confuse that with any solar charging. Your Victron shows both battery sets so its wiring and shunt could be how the solar on makes the dash light come on if there is a wiring mix-up there.
BFL13 07/31/21 02:45pm Tech Issues
RE: Dashboard Alternator light

Not 100% sure, but 14.6 is not over-voltage. It will be about that at first and then taper once you get going and it all warms up, riding around 14 or a bit under that. IMO with that light on with the solar on, check the engine batt's voltage with your multimeter to see if it is getting any charging at all. If not, then you can't drive very far like that. Drew E on here would know about all to do with booster switches and run circuits etc. Others too.
BFL13 07/31/21 02:04pm Tech Issues
RE: Dashboard Alternator light

I am guessing some mix-up in the way it is all connected where somehow the solar is opening a breaker or switch AFAIK the dash light does not indicate over-voltage, but indicates no charging is happening at the engine battery. With the light on, you could check the engine battery's voltage, turning the headlights on. Do you also have a dash switch for using the house batts to start the engine? My class C does not, only has the isolator with ignition run to it. Some have a three switch affair for that, where the run circuit to the isolator gets there a different way. Don't know if that could be in backwards. Maybe something is on a buss that shouldn't be with the others on it.
BFL13 07/31/21 01:48pm Tech Issues
RE: Dashboard Alternator light

It is not the voltage as such, but something is wrong. First try it with no solar connected to the house batts. Is the controller chassis grounded to the RV frame? If so disconnect that. Perhaps there is a polarity problem with how it is all wired and that is what the dash light is not liking. ( WAG) . Anyway the solar and alternator charging should play well together. Something is wrong with your wiring of the solar and the isolator outputs most likely. IMO suspect the solar installation, as the RV will be ok if as built. IMO don't drive around much like that until it is fixed. One thing to expect is that on the house batts if solar gives you 10 amps at 14.6 and alternator gives you 10 amps at 13.8 doing it one at a time, you will not get 20 amps with both on. You might get more like 10 from the solar and 5 from the alternator with its lower voltage. but that is not the issue here.
BFL13 07/31/21 11:50am Tech Issues
RE: Best weatherproof MPPT solar charge controller

Reason for weatherproof: set up suitcase panels with controller not in enclosed space and go sightseeing. It rains. Rain can happen when not expected. Voltage drop CAN be mitigated by shorter distances and larger gauge wire. However, putting a suitcase panel in the sun may require longer distance with a wire gauge that is, ummm, more flexible. Hence my desire to put panels in series for higher voltage/lower current, and, put the solar controller close to the batteries rather than at the panels. A voltage drop from 36 volts/5 amps is much lower than voltage drop from 14 volts/10 amps. Especially when the dropped voltage from 36 volts is then converted to 14 volts. Yes, so just put the controller inside with short wires to the battery and long wires to the array. Instead of clamping the portable to the battery you clamp/plug to the terminals on the array side of the controller. Eg, run wires with connectors on them from the array side of the controller to where you can get at the ends to connect the portable array wires with matching connectors on them. In one set-up with the 5er we had, I put a "cable hatch" in the cargo bay door to pass wires through while still having the door locked shut. Others here have rigged Anderson connectors externally from wires going inside to the controller array side.
BFL13 07/29/21 07:25am Tech Issues
RE: Best weatherproof MPPT solar charge controller

Not clear why you need it weatherproof when you intend to put it near your battery bank. You can put it inside near the battery bank and run the array-controller wiring to, eg, Anderson connectors going to the controller array terminals. It doesn't matter for RV use if the controller is pos or neg "grounded". You don't chassis ground the controller or the panels.
BFL13 07/28/21 08:46am Tech Issues
RE: Rear View Camera - UPDATE-

I don't have a for sure answer on the wifi for a long 5er. I was able to walk about 100ft back from the back window camera and still see myself on the iPad. I was able to go out front of the MH about 20 ft and still got the picture from near 50ft, but off to the side with more MH in the way, not the front window see right through, I lost the signal. However, I got behind the truck with camper on it with the front of the truck to the back quarter of the MH for about 35 ft or so and got the signal. It goes with line of sight but also with barriers in the way what you get. I think at 50 ft it might be spotty, hard to know. Discovered it has a time delay if that matters for a rear view. I could see myself move and stop, and the picture caught up after I stopped. I counted one, two, but before I said two it caught up. I mounted the camera on a piece of wood and can move the piece of wood between RVs. You don't need two of the OEM holders. https://i.imgur.com/4RqP4a4l.jpg]https://i.imgur.com/4RqP4a4l.jpg https://i.imgur.com/hKuMeq8l.jpg]https://i.imgur.com/hKuMeq8l.jpg Following up on this, got tired of swapping the camera back forth so looked for a second camera that would still work with the old iPad Mini which is easy to swap between vehicle rear view mirrors using elastic bands. https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/type-s-1080p-app-view-backup-camera-0350726p.html#srp First found the FHD on sale, which worked great with DW's big iPad but the old iPad Mini kept crashing the App. I tried it with my Android phone and discovered I can't get new Apps using Google Play. Looked into that, and found a bunch of stuff you are supposed to do that didn't work for me ( I am a spaz with all this stuff). Too much tech stuff! :( So took the FHD back and got a different camera that is wireless, but has its own monitor. Success! https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/reload-wireless-backup-camera-4-3-in-0354093p.html#srp The Reload camera I now got is more expensive than that FHD (both on sale for now), but I like where you don't have to fiddle with the iPad to restart the picture every time the camera is turned off. This is actually a big thing if you are in a hurry. The Reload monitor just starts showing the picture as soon as you turn the camera on. I have the camera outside on the TC now, wired into the "porch light". Light on means camera is on too. The Reload monitor is way smaller than the iPad Mini up on the rear view mirror with elastic bands, but is plenty big enough for the job. Didn't like the suction cup option. I see in the specs the Reload claims 49 ft vs about 30 for the Hopkins so if true, that would be good in a truck/trailer. The Hopkins is ok for the 28ft Class C for sure and for the TC. AFAIK, the Reload monitor will not pair with the Hopkins so I still need my own device for that monitor job. A note on the delay in picture with wireless processing time. It is no big deal when driving, but it occurs to me that it would be when backing up with a trailer. You need to react when the trailer starts to go off course. It might be awkward if the camera delay is too much. Haven't tried that yet.
BFL13 07/26/21 04:16pm Tech Issues
RE: can this possibly be true? 150 amp hours $46.51 cdn

PT thanks for the update. So is the RV stuck in the States? I just did a major job on the roof of our C and had all the solar off to do that. Only put back the 275w panel, so have three 100w panels doing nothing for now--don't need them on the TC. 275w is enough for what we do nowadays. (Yes, you can have too much solar! :) ) Hope it all works out for your situation eventually. Agree that Covid problems are not over by a long shot so "stay safe" still applies. Be good if we can get back to "normal".
BFL13 07/25/21 10:48am Tech Issues
RE: can this possibly be true? 150 amp hours $46.51 cdn

PT, why are you still looking at LFPs? You are supposed to be getting a bunch of SiO2s last heard. I see Azimuth still has 37 of the 50 they got before Xmas, and no drop in price. Noted where you said there is a deal on getting 50. Hmmmm. Shelf life happening! We don't even know if you have your RV back home yet. Are you in fact going to join the Rv Down South and get LFPs for it? What is really going on? We deserve to know! Bated breath of the multitude wanting answers. :)
BFL13 07/24/21 06:42pm Tech Issues
RE: Air Pump to Cat 1991 Ford 460 Question

If it's running good I wouldn't be too inclined to mess with it much as long as you don't have emission testing or inspections. It's pre-OBD2 so taking it to an auto parts store for a free code reading won't help. Checking the code involves some combination of jumping terminals and counting flashes- do some research on the internet on how to do this or get your hands on a repair manual. Thanks, took your advice and went to Google and found a whole bunch of info on this, so now I have a better idea what could be happening and what I should do about it.
BFL13 07/21/21 10:02am Class C Motorhomes
Air Pump to Cat 1991 Ford 460 Question

Couple years ago, plugged cat removed and replaced with pipe. Garage suggested remove the air pump as well. I said leave it in, thinking if I had to put a real cat back in, but fairly clueless on the topic. Anyway it's still there. Now I am getting the engine light after driving at highway speed for about two hours and then slow down. If I turn off the ignition and restart the light does not come back on. I gather this light is to do with air emissions, and there is an oxygen sensor involved. Is that associated with the air pump to the cat? Should I have that air pump removed and maybe the oxygen sensor with it, (if it is with it) or does it matter? Seems like everything is running well since the cat was removed so I am not sure if I need to worry about all this or not. Thanks in advance!
BFL13 07/20/21 12:13pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Coverter/ GFCI problems

So at the campground no problems. Not a GFCI at pedestal. So it happens at home with a GFCI plug-in at stick house. Assuming the GFCIs that trip in the OP are stick-house? Usually it is an adapter in the shore power cable string of cables from the RV. Or the converter could be sharing its 120v CB with some 120 receptacles where one might have something plugged in that is tripping the house GFCI. Not the converter. You don't know if it is the converter (under warranty) The outside 120v plug in can get wet while washing the RV too. IMO live with it by using only non-GFCI plug-ins until it is convenient to get them to do the warranty work. Not to lose any camping time waiting for them
BFL13 07/19/21 06:01pm Tech Issues
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