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 > Your search for posts made by 'BFL13' found 1034 matches.

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RE: Atwood gas furnace

OP says it is in a park model. Park model furnaces have gas with AC and DC voltages. https://pantherrvproducts.com/dometic-atwood-31095-afl-furnace-ac-to-dc-transformer/
BFL13 09/30/20 09:59am Tech Issues
RE: Are My Tanks Really Empty?

You can fill the grey tank till it overflows the shower drain (never mind the meter for this), then empty it into a 5 gal bucket as many times as it takes. Now you know how many gallons that was. Compare to spec size of grey tank in gallons. If your actual holding is way less than spec gallons, now you know there is a blockage of some sort. If so, it could be a warranty issue on a new rig like that. Sometimes the facotry will have "stuff" left in the tank from shaving off plastic fittings or whatever. Might be the air vent is blocked from not being up off the bottom of the tank
BFL13 09/29/20 06:28pm Tech Issues
RE: Connecting Portable Solar Panels

Ground based portable solar gets shaded by the RV at times, so it must be moved to keep it in the sun. BTDT. This means the battery connection is at one end of your RV and sure enough the sun is at the other end, so you need long enough wire to reach past the the length of your RV at the very least. You need enough wire to pull the array back from the RV far enough so the sun is above the roof on the other side of the RV, or else move the array to the sunny side. A slide out one side and the awning out the other side of your RV makes good shade on a wide arc, so that means you move the array to the sunny side of those when the sun gets to there. Didn't happen where we were doing this, but I can imagine that the place your portable would have to go would be out of your site's area, so now you have to have no neighbour that close. I don't bother when parked in the woods. For us that is in the darker half of the year when solar is poor anyway, so it is generator and charger. I can understand trying to get some solar if parked in the woods in the summer. The trick is to find the open spot away from the RV that you are "allowed" to use for your array, and that will stay open to the sun long enough as the sun moves around and up and down to make it all worthwhile for any amp hours. AH does have that H in it., so time matters.
BFL13 09/29/20 03:54pm Tech Issues
RE: Solar suitcase problem

I bought a 130w solar suitcase a couple months back. I comes with a cheap CMTD A2410 controller. I've hooked it up only three times. The first two times all was well. Today I hooked it up to my boat batteries and it has gone haywire. I was going to check the on and off parameters to make sure they were where I wanted. The readings for the parameters are way to high, reading 29 - 30 volts. Cannot set below 29 and the display still has a readout after I disconnect the batteries. I'm assuming this controller is toast. My problem is that we are leaving on trip that I bought this thing for in less than two weeks. Can I reset this thing or do I need to buy a new controller? If I need to buy recommendations please. As always, thanks for your help. First question is if the boat is 24v, did you let the controller see the 24v before you connected the controller to the array? Could be other issues, but start there for now. https://www.dropbox.com/s/3utx0h3wjnztwmn/CMTD-10A-Solar-Charger-DUAL-USB-6.pdf?dl=0
BFL13 09/29/20 03:25pm Tech Issues
RE: 2-way refrigerator operation without a battery

Thanks for the ideas! I already had the episode where the back outside was hot on 120 but the fridge stayed warm. Turned out to be not level enough. This little fridge is very fussy about levelling, moreso than the taller fridges in our other RVs. I have a Kill-A-Watt, which I used to tell if there was any draw from the fridge when on 120v, but no convenient way to leave in as a display. I like the indicator lamp idea. Can't hear any flame. You have to stand on a chair to raise the outside panel, and unscrew the metal cover over the burner to see the flame. PITA. I need to work on a shade for the reflector so you can see if it is lit up when it is not dark in the camper.
BFL13 09/27/20 03:20pm Tech Issues
RE: 2-way refrigerator operation without a battery

OP is missing in action. :( He said he has a two way in his 1985 but standard for 1985 is three way so we still don't know his model. I missed the part where it can be a three-way but still not need 12v. I get that now. BTW, the 2410 in our 1991 truck camper has that two button system for lighting it, and does not have indicator lights. I did not realize that means it does not need 12v connected--interesting! Since the OP stated 2 way, I stated NO 12 volts for the RM 100. IF you have a 3 way RM 100, then you DO need a heavy Gauge 12 volt wire Positive and Negative. Doug Yes, but I think the point is ? that you can have a 12v mode but still no 12v controls, so you don't need 12v except for the 12v mode. Wrong? Since you are here to ask while I can, is there a clever way to know if the 2410 is on electric ok without having to go outside and feel it? The gas mode has that reflector but you can't see it unless it is dark, which is not so useful either when you can't see if it lit or not except by going outside.
BFL13 09/27/20 09:33am Tech Issues
RE: 2-way refrigerator operation without a battery

OP is missing in action. :( He said he has a two way in his 1985 but standard for 1985 is three way so we still don't know his model. I missed the part where it can be a three-way but still not need 12v. I get that now. BTW, the 2410 in our 1991 truck camper has that two button system for lighting it, and does not have indicator lights. I did not realize that means it does not need 12v connected--interesting!
BFL13 09/27/20 08:13am Tech Issues
RE: 2-way refrigerator operation without a battery

1985 Airsteam TTs had a RM 1303 3-way fridge as standard https://www.airstream.com/owners/document-archive/product/tt/year/1985/ http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/rm1303.pdf EDIT--using that link above, I went back as far as 1971 and they had "gas/electric combination" fridges as standard. Don't know the model for the fridge. EDIT--the 1982s still say gas/electric combo, the 1983 says RM100. seems to be a 3-way that uses 12v http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/rm100parts.pdf Ref here to a 1976 RM100 in an Airstream https://www.airforums.com/forums/f425/1976-dometic-rm100-no-cooling-l-kie-what-i-found-106531.html So that is 1976 for a "gas/electric combo" that was an RM 100 that does need 12v. Still don't have when that "modern" type of fridge started being made for Rvs
BFL13 09/26/20 12:05pm Tech Issues
RE: House batteries

Not clear where things stand with that 12.3 after driving a little. Do you have any alternator charging or not? If not, you might not get any charging from the converter by running the gen either. Although you might still get gen charging if no alternator charging. Have you tried that? Your batteries do need recharging for sure, so you need to know what you have going there before they die while you are still away camping. You can take the house batteries home to charge them up after camping trips, and keep them on a trickle charger/maintainer, and use your little solar panel to maintain the engine battery--but you have to make the solar do that if it does not now. Here is some good reading --it helped me a lot! http://www.bestconverter.com/Books_c_67.html
BFL13 09/26/20 11:22am Class C Motorhomes
RE: 2-way refrigerator operation without a battery

Why reinvent the wheel.....just put a cheap 12V battery in and be done with it Simple......... He does not need a battery while on shore power,and if he had one, it would need recharging/maintaining, and he has that old converter that is likely to do a poor job of that if it even works now. For the cost of a new battery, he can have that new converter I linked and have no converter issues and no battery to worry about either.
BFL13 09/26/20 11:02am Tech Issues
RE: House batteries

So this is our first excursion with our RV. We bought second hand from a rental group. The RV has been in a storage lot with a few small trips to the house and then a 3 hour drive to our non electrified campground. We have spent one night without worrying about electrical consumption. Had the outside light on, interior lights, the fan on the furnace. When we got here the meter was showing 12.5 Volts. This morning it is at 12.2. Is this normal? I didn't really want to run the generator just because of the noise but am I at the the downside limit? The unit is going into storage for in a couple of weeks and we will probably do some shorter day trips till then. I will get some new house batteries ASAP if these are shot. Thanks. Doug C Do not get new batteries until after you get it out of storage next year. The new batteries will not do well sitting in storage unless you do things right for that. Nurse those batteries along for this year. Your starting voltaage of 12.5 is low for on arrival. Was there power at the storage? Is that the loaded voltage with those lights etc on, or before you turned on all those lights etc? Normally that arrival voltage would be 13.x with the surface charge still there from alternator charging with a full battery when leaving home. We don't know if the battery was full on leaving resting at 12.7v. First thing is test for that by turning the engine on and see if the house voltage jumps to 14v or whatever it gets to. If that voltage does not change, you have a problem with your alternator charging to the house battery. A drop pf 0.3v for one night is normal. But you would recharge at reaching 12.2 resting voltage. If that 12.2 is with everything on, your resting voltage will be higher and maybe you can do a second night before recharging. Turn everything off and see what the house voltage is then. Get used to running the gen every day or two for a couple or three hours camping like that. How it is. Normal would be one night per 12v battery in the house bank before a recharge.
BFL13 09/26/20 09:00am Class C Motorhomes
RE: 2-way refrigerator operation without a battery

So get one of these instead of a battery and another charger, and disconnect the Triad's red wire from the fuse panel and the white wire from ground. Note this converter cost is about the same as a battery's and no shipping cost it says. Now run a wire from the positive terminal of this converter to the fuse panel to where the Triad's went, and a wire from its negative terminal to that ground connection the Triad used. #8 wire would be ok. https://www.boatandrvaccessories.com/products/powermax-pm3-45lk-45-amp-12-volt-power-supply-with-led-light
BFL13 09/25/20 04:49pm Tech Issues
RE: 2-way refrigerator operation without a battery

Why does it need 12v input from a battery to operate? http://web.archive.org/web/20200228080754/http://parallaxpower.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/8194/2018/09/Triad-Utrad-TU-models-Generic.pdf Edit--found this for the 900 (and 700 I think) Q. What happens when the battery is removed? A. When the battery is removed from the vehicle, you will experience dim lights and possibly a humming noise coming from your radio. Parallax Power Components L.L.C. does not recommend operation without a battery connected to the system. If connected to 120 VAC at all times. Parallax Power Components L.L.C.’s model SB100 simulated battery may be installed in place of the vehicle battery
BFL13 09/25/20 04:29pm Tech Issues
RE: 2-way refrigerator operation without a battery

http://techsupport.pdxrvwholesale.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/09/Dometic-Refer-Model-RM2820-Installation-User-Manual.pdf Seems a 1985 airstream will have a Dometic 2820 two way as OEM. (some googling to find that)
BFL13 09/25/20 02:48pm Tech Issues
RE: 2-way refrigerator operation without a battery

https://www.airforums.com/forums/f449/wiring-new-converter-from-12-volt-panel-101990.html Says what the 1985 converter is/was. In a video that came up (googling) it showed the converter in an older Airstream. That converter looked a lot like the OEM one that was in our 1981 truck camper. It was a real beast, made in Winnipeg to a British design--forget the brand name for it. It did supply 12v when plugged into 120v. It had a battery charger section too. It made loud clunks when it switched. It was very big and heavy. Got rid of that and used a modern converter instead. bestconverter has an article about Airstream converters. Also something on how to keep the OEM power- on indicator light working if you do swap out the old converter. An old thread about it--it's a Magnetek 730-2 https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/13748154/print/true.cfm
BFL13 09/25/20 12:31pm Tech Issues
RE: 2-way refrigerator operation without a battery

You need 12v to run the fridge in either AC or gas modes. You can get that 12v with no battery from your converter (makes 12v from 120v) but in the 1985 Rv, not sure how that works. You could get a battery, but also you need a way to recharge it, so a simple deck mount converter in addition would be a help if the 1985 converter has no charger to it. In theory you could get a battery and just use any battery charger to recharge it as required, but that could be tiresome, so a converter that stays on would be preferable IMO.
BFL13 09/25/20 10:45am Tech Issues
RE: Merging a Xantrex SW2024 to a Tesla Lithium battery

Thanks for the update. Got to admire getting it all working as reward for sticking to it like that. "Where there is a will, there is a way."
BFL13 09/24/20 06:17pm Tech Issues
RE: Solar charging - can it be so?

The earlier start with a higher voltage notion sounds good, but at the time of the earlier start your amps are so low, who cares? Say you get 2 amps from 7-8am that you would not get otherwise. That is 2 AH. My goodness, two whole AH! On no shade different sets real life--I put three 100w panels (6.2 Isc each) in parallel with a PWM and got 18.6a to the battery by Trimetric when array aimed at high noon. I quickly swapped to MPPT and got 18.x (forget exact amount). It turned out that panel heating kills off wattage with MPPT to the same degree that PWM "wastes watts" according to MPPT advertising, so it was a wash. I then tried the panels in series with the MPPT (can't do that with the PWM) and got--ta da-- 18.x to the batts by Trimetric. Same. So that's what I got in real life. Three 100w panels will do what they do and that's that. You can't get blood out of a stone and wire them funny to get more, or use a different controller. At least I couldn't. Solar is so variable each day, you can't realize all these so called advantages that you will ever notice. Pick something that makes the most sense and that's your solar. After that it is all up to the weather man what good it does you. Meanwhile keep your generator handy, because you will need it if you don't have one, and might not need it if you do have one (Sod's Law with that)
BFL13 09/22/20 06:45pm Tech Issues
RE: Battery Charging Troubleshooting

Checked with my hydrometer and reading 1.225 so the 90% sounds about right. I have the converter in boost mode now with charging rate of .335 amps. The percentage charged is going up slowly. Can anyone recommend a stand alone charger which would equalize charge the T105's? You did not even read the Trojan guide!!! :( If you did, you would see that 1.258 is 90% and your 1.225 is maybe 73% ish. Yes, you want 16.2v to equalize the Trojans (first you have to get them full using 14.8v) You can do that with this converter, used as a portable charger by just putting a set of cut off jumper cables in the terminals and clamp to the battery bank. the adjustable voltage mode goes from 13-16.5v. (You set the converter voltage before you clamp to the batteries) https://www.boatandrvaccessories.com/products/powermax-pm3-60lk-12-volts-60-amp-power-converter-battery-charger-w-led-light
BFL13 09/22/20 12:39pm Tech Issues
RE: Lithium Batteries

Going around in circles here :) This came up earlier and explains it all for DC-DC and some good diagrams. Just get your guy to do which applies to yours. The MH builder is behind the times it seems. https://shop.pkys.com/Alternator-Lithium-Battery.html
BFL13 09/21/20 10:42pm Tech Issues
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