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 > Your search for posts made by 'BFL13' found 1327 matches.

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RE: Isolating TT's Lithium from TV's Lead Acid Batteries

Do you really have to isolate the Lis from the TV batteries? Why? check out this thread...many others on the subject.. Interaction Between LI and TV's Lead Acid OK, I read the OP's post in that before the whole thing started to eat my computer :( After a restart, I have escaped from whatever that was about. Anyway, the OP there has some weird notions, plus he seems to have been talking about staying parked with the 7-pin left connected, NOT about when driving down the road. IMO this "problem" is not a valid concern, and if you have a Ford with a relay instead of a Chev that stays live even with the engine off, you don't care--the relay isolates you. If you have a Chev, just unplug the 7-pin. Non-problem! Meanwhile, enjoy the Lis. Another member here was trying to adjust his ways for Lis, and ran into some interesting issues. Might apply to your situation, don't know. https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/29894388/srt/pa/pging/1/page/1.cfm
BFL13 08/23/19 08:30pm Tech Issues
RE: Isolating TT's Lithium from TV's Lead Acid Batteries

Do you really have to isolate the Lis from the TV batteries? Why? Going down the road, you might be getting 13.9 volts from the TV and 14.x from solar, so in that case the solar will do the charging. If no sunshine, who cares if the Lis are charged at 13.9 volts for a while? When you get there, you unplug the 7-pin and now you are isolated anyway. I can see it if the 7-pin were charging at a higher voltage than the Li spec calls for, but who cares if they are getting less voltage than they can handle?
BFL13 08/23/19 07:37pm Tech Issues
RE: How to wire 6-6V batteries-Oh yes, I'm still here

Use this app to post pics. As to the double wires going to the battery bank, my guess is that the reds and blacks are connected somewhere down the line. Something like boths blacks going to a single ground lug and both reds going to the inverter. If so, then connect 2 six volt batteries in series (one positive to one negative), then 1 red to the other positive and a black to the other negative each set of 2. https://i.imgur.com/USfiYN4l.png I am amazed nobody has questioned the diagram. I have done something like that with an inverter that has two pos and two negs, where you put one set on one battery set and the other on another battery set. That saves having to wire the two battery sets in parallel. It assumes each battery set will do half the work and accept half the charging. With AGMs you can't afford to make that assumption when trying to recharge them to full. You can't do that with three battery sets. The OP's two reds could be one for the converter and one for the slide. There is much un-said in that diagram --eg inverter neg to where?
BFL13 08/23/19 06:42pm Tech Issues
RE: Isolating TT's Lithium from TV's Lead Acid Batteries

You don't need the little bit of charging you get from the TV to the TT while driving. Just pull the truck's fuse for pin #4 (Chev it is Stud 1--whatever for other trucks--Ford has a relay to disconnect.)
BFL13 08/23/19 06:18pm Tech Issues
RE: Batteries drained to dead, what is nominal drain on truck?

Bob, get a DC clamp meter. So much easier. I wonder if the smell is a a ventilation door actuator that gets stuck on and resets itself once the battery goes dead. I would not think it would happen with the key off but who knows. It certainly sounds like a electrical part is hot but not burning. There is a blast from the past! Good to know you are still in the game. :) BTW my Eco-Worthy is still slaving away, doing a good job on my 275w panel. That was good advice you gave back then.
BFL13 08/22/19 06:51pm Tech Issues
RE: Free Solar

Seagulls poop on panels too, which is fun to clear off. :( Seems like backwards to be in Texas in August instead of in January, but no doubt there is a good reason!
BFL13 08/22/19 06:46pm Tech Issues
RE: Using an automotive battery charger when onboard fails

"Aren't thoust the one that said that particular CONVERTER/charger the Power Max is no longer available?" Not understood. The above photo shows three Vector smart chargers with the follow on Black and Decker version of their 40 amper. These are indeed no longer available, more's the pity. You can get the PowerMax converters anytime-- the 60 amper PM3-LK is about right for many RVs with two batteries and a 2000w gen. https://powermaxconverters.com/product-category/converters-ac-dc/
BFL13 08/21/19 08:00pm Tech Issues
RE: Batteries drained to dead, what is nominal drain on truck?

Perhaps one of the two truck batteries has a bad cell or whatever and is killing the other.
BFL13 08/21/19 07:41pm Tech Issues
RE: Using an automotive battery charger when onboard fails

You describe an old MANUAL charger without timer. They are not allowed to be sold anymore in too many states. For shorter excursions, a smart battery charger will wheeze out just enough power to limp by. For top charging or restoring a full charge, they are as useless as **** on a boar hog. Try to opt for a pay-for added guarantee on a smart charger. Then all you will be stuck for is the shipping costs when it ignites or plays dead. Chargers that do not have a built-in timer are extremely stupid. And anything that claims to be automatic or smart is NOT a battery charger -- it is a Tickle Me Elmo grade joke. I do not agree. A particular battery charger does what it does. It is a tool. "Use the right tool for the job." The chargers Mex hates so much are not all the same for the same jobs, but they are not all suitable for each part of the "charging profile" to bring a battery from 50% to 100%. Many portable smart chargers are "just fine" for doing 50-90s while camping. Many do not have enough amps, so they require too much gen time to do a 50-90, but you can use more than one at a time to add their amps. Getting a battery from 90 to 100 or even from 97 (when many automatic chargers shut down) to 100 requires a different sort of charger. A different tool to do that job. Finding a charger that will do it all, no matter what the job is, with enough amps to do it by itself, is close to impossible. (PowerMax adjustable voltage LK models come close though). You might have to use one charger for one part of the job and another for another part of the job. If you try to use the wrong tool for the job, then of course the only thing to do is blame the tool! :) These are not "tickle-me Elmo" chargers for instance: (add up their amps as shown and that total is what was showing on the Trimetric as going into the battery bank --maxing out a Honda EU3000is) https://i.imgur.com/n0koFB5l.jpg
BFL13 08/21/19 06:56pm Tech Issues
RE: Batteries drained to dead, what is nominal drain on truck?

Did you power the converter from shore power or from a generator? reason to ask is: If you are off grid, and you leave the 7-pin connected while parked engine off, your Chev will be "live" with the engine battery in parallel with the trailer batteries. So that could be good or bad for the truck battery depending on whether the trailer batteries are being recharged or run down. Generally with a Chev, disconnect the 7-pin when you are parked for very long.
BFL13 08/21/19 06:36pm Tech Issues
RE: Solar charge controller weird voltage reading

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32453845196.html The instructions here (scroll down) say it is one of those that must have the battery connected first or the controller will be damaged. It is PWM. PWM does control the panel voltage by shorting it on and off once the batteries reach the set high voltage 14.4 or whatever. Until then, the panel voltage will be the same as battery voltage. Not enough info why the batteries are not getting charged to 14,4 volts. If there is too much voltage drop on the wires between battery and controller, the controller will "see" 14.4 and stop voltage rising further, but the battery voltage will be lower than that set point. Your array is quite small so if you have a bigger battery bank the array would not be enough to get the batts up before dark. Your panels must in parallel, not in series, or the total voltage could fry the controller, and if it did still work, you are only getting half the amps you should be getting when they are in parallel. Not enough info about your set-up and the camping scenario to know what's what. I had a similar controller in one of my past set-ups and it did the job, even though it was an "eBay special". Can't just blame the controller for what it is and ignore other possible factors.
BFL13 08/20/19 05:23pm Tech Issues
RE: Converter Consumption

Not clear on "actual energy used". When you run the converter from your inverter-generator it draws the 120v supply in VA. The generator runs harder on a 100 amp converter that is not PF corrected than it does on a 100 amp converter that is. The generator running harder (more revs, more noise, more gasoline being used) is using more "actual energy" seems to me.
BFL13 08/20/19 09:58am Tech Issues
RE: Battery or no battery????????

Whatever the law is wrt whether a trailer needs its own brakes for its weight, don't forget the limits on the truck's brakes. My 2003 Chev 2500HD says not to tow a trailer over 2,000 lbs unless it has its own brakes. I don't know about other trucks, but I imagine a lighter, smaller truck or a heavier dually would have a different figure less or more than that 2,000. It's not just about breakaways or stopping distance. There is also pushing or jack-knifing. The trailer is supposed to brake smoothly just before the truck does.
BFL13 08/20/19 08:31am Tech Issues
RE: Battery charger recommendations

60 amper for $123 and free shipping. https://www.boatandrvaccessories.com/products/powermax-pm3-60lk-12-volts-60-amp-power-converter-battery-charger-w-led-light Cut off the end of a set of jumper cables for wires to output terminals and clamping on.
BFL13 08/19/19 09:49pm Tech Issues
RE: Converter Consumption

Say your average DC amps is 5 at 13.6 volts all day. That is 68 watts. Efficiency is 85%, so input watts is 80 watts. Converter has PF of 0.7, so VA required is a steady 114.3 VA. Call it 1 AC amp at 115 volts. Whatever that is in kw, for an hour is your kwh.
BFL13 08/19/19 08:22pm Tech Issues
RE: Residential Refrigerator

Camping off-grid here and having only a 120v fridge is a nail- biter for if there is enough solar to keep it all going. Not a hope on the Wet Coast from October to April. Dubious from April to October too (BTDT). OTOH we don't need air conditioning at all. So inverter is fine if you also have a generator when there isn't enough solar. All so different if you camp off-grid in Death Valley. Scenario is everything!
BFL13 08/19/19 07:27pm Tech Issues
RE: Converter Consumption

I have used my Kill-A-Watt to measure converter 120v draw when going full out on a low battery, but not when running typical small RV loads. My instinct (for what that is worth!) is that you might have a situation somewhat like a water heater, where it is easier to keep it hot than it is to get it hot from cold. Or VV with the fridge. The battery will cycle without the converter, and solar picking it up when it can. If you need to use the converter to bring up a low battery when solar can't, then I think you will use more 120v draw than if you had just left it on Float and run whatever 12v things need it at times. Cycling the battery also uses up more money, buying batteries sooner, but you can lose your battery from neglect while on converter too. The real money might be from using an inverter to run all 120v things except air conditioning, if you have enough solar coming in to keep the battery bank up. But that also cycles the batteries and you need more of a battery bank, which all costs money. Propane is another alternative to 120v for some things. Depends on the math for that if there is anything to be saved there. Also there is the question of how many days per year is this all about. A car that gets 30 mpg is not an advantage compared with one that gets 10 mpg, if you don't drive it many miles a year. It's like LED lights in your RV. Only worth it if you have the lights on a lot during a year, and 12v power is in short supply. People forget that amp-hour means over time, not just the amps.
BFL13 08/19/19 06:06pm Tech Issues
RE: UPDATE --- Converter/charger issue?

You are in business! :) Note that if you screw up the drill and twiddle the voltage pot while the left switch is in "stages" mode, it will mess up all the voltages in that mode. You can put it back the way it was as explained in the manual. (BTDT) The adjustment is NOT to the final stage of the "stages" mode. First switch A to the right for single voltage mode, then twiddle the pot to whatever voltage. It will stay there until you change it. For off-grid generator charging, that is all you need for a 50-90. Set 14.8v say. (14.8 at 25C is 15.2 at 5C so you want a table of temp comp voltages if you are keen) You only want the "stages" mode when on shore power. In that mode, it does Bulk for half an hour then goes to Normal. Half an hour is not enough for a 50-90 at 14.8, which is why to use the single voltage mode for that. Also for AGMs that require the 14.x all the way to full charge, you don't want it to drop the voltage until you say, so you use the single voltage mode for that, even on shore power.
BFL13 08/17/19 12:19pm Tech Issues
RE: Wiring issue possibly resolved

Remember the issue I had with the brand new battery seeming to die on my trailer? So, I decided to replace the top post terminals with the eye terminals. The old terminals were loose. After removing them, there was... rust. Likely from the dissimilar metal of the clamp and bolts. It ain't fixed yet, but next trip in, I will need to clean the rust off and then put the new terminals on. Likely good to go after that. https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/29925295/gotomsg/29927860.cfm#29927860 Please clarify between which "posts" were "loose" and the usual house battery that has both a fat lead post that takes clamps, and a threaded bolt that you put a "ring" lug terminal on and tighten down with a nut or wing nut.
BFL13 08/16/19 07:56pm Tech Issues
RE: Grrrrr. Brake controller.

Not clear that you have done the usual brake controller "setting-up" drill, to establish just when the trailer stops first, and does not skid. (Although you imply that) You need some clear road and time to fiddle with the settings, doing it several times as a "trial and error" job. After, if that does no good, then you can get out the DMM and check for volts and amps and all that rigamarole. (You might be there now, but not clear)
BFL13 08/16/19 06:50pm Tech Issues
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