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 > Your search for posts made by 'BFL13' found 1330 matches.

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RE: Charging battery with Honda 2000

The 3000is (?) I tested was thoroughly warmed up both tests The Meanwell RSP is a Pf corrected machine Connecting to a generator derived charging source robs current from the generator FIELD The rotor the shaft that spins in the middle. This is like using exhaust gas to jack up a rig. Illogical. When I soft ramp loaded the Honda with the Meanwell the generator would start on the economy idle setting. Some pricey inverter chargers may or may not have a ramped charger loading circuit. I made my own from discrete components. Interesting from Mex on how adding the load makes the engine conk out in certain circumstances. In my case the difference was between a warmed up engine and a cold engine. In his case, with the engine warmed up both times, the difference was in the gasoline having more energy so the engine didn't conk out. I see that in my case, starting with Eco off to get the engine warmed up faster than at lower revs with it on, may have hidden the Eco on /off comparison for whether the engine would more likely conk out with the same load and gasoline. Ramping up the load to prevent a stall is an other thing besides IMO. I don't know how the generator is designed for that, but I have seen how my 100 amp charger's amps output ramps up from the low 90s to stabilize at 103 amps on start up. I thought that was the battery acceptance changing as the battery warmed up from receiving a charge, but it might also be something in the charger's design, don't have a clue. In all cases, the answer to the OP is still that you can't charge the battery faster with Eco off. Faster charging requires higher amps over a shorter time and the inverter circuit breaker will pop at the same limit whether Eco is on or off when you try the higher amps.
BFL13 06/25/19 11:17am Tech Issues
RE: Charging battery with Honda 2000

A curiosity in all this, is that the input required is related to the output at the time and that output is greatly affected by the battery voltage at the time. So when starting the Honda to recharge a battery, the battery is likely low in voltage, which makes it easier to start the Honda. The maximum input required is just as the battery reaches Absorption Voltage while the charger is still at its current limit. That is the time of max output. After that amps taper, so output watts decline too, reducing the input requirement from the Honda.
BFL13 06/25/19 10:03am Tech Issues
RE: Charging battery with Honda 2000

There is the engine conking out and there is the circuit breaker popping. Not the same thing. If you hit the Honda with a good load when the engine is cold, it will conk out whether in Eco or not. The trick is to let the engine warm up a little (a minute) before plugging in the load. It will warm up faster if not in Eco. It doesn't matter about Eco or not to pop the circuit breaker with an overload. To run my 100 amp PF corrected charger on the EU3000is Honda on a cold day, I had to start the Honda, wait a minute, then plug in the charger. The 100 amp was not a full load so no problem with circuit breaker. However, if I plugged in the charger too soon, the engine conked out. It worked better to start with Eco off, wait a minute, plug in and then turn Eco on once it is all running. No need to wait for the load to become less.
BFL13 06/25/19 07:54am Tech Issues
RE: House batteries

Our rig originally came with two 12V lead acid wet batteries. After the second set failed, I switched to a pair of 6V AGM batteries. Doing so required a setting change in our on-board battery charger. WOW, what an improvement in battery reserves and years of longevity. Year number 4 and they are still performing exceptionally. Both sets of 12V lead acid batteries provided only 2 good years, year 3 was marginal, year 4 was one year too late. Both sets of 12V batteries discharged and recharged at different rates causing an imbalance, acid boil-overs, an undercharged battery, and an over-charged battery. The two 6V AGMs discharge and recharge in unison, hence a perfect marriage for power. I bought them at Sam's club for $180 each, brand is Duracell. If you still have the details, please provide the brand/model of the battery charger, and what the previous setting was for the 12s, and what the new setting was for the 6v AGMs. Also for interest, were the two 12s for either set wired "balanced" or did you have one with the loads/charging on it, and the other "downstream"? (With two 6s you have to have them balanced for load/charging, so that does not count as such, but with 12s it can make a difference.)
BFL13 06/22/19 06:53pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: House batteries

A 2000 RV likely has a single voltage converter at about 13.8v. That will not recharge your 6s properly (or that single 12v, but replacing that is cheaper than two 6s.) but they will last a while. Budget issue whether to replace them whenever, or make them last longer with a better converter/charger that will meet the battery charging specs. https://www.trojanbattery.com/pdf/TrojanBattery_UsersGuide.pdf
BFL13 06/20/19 05:13pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Solar panel upgrade

BTDT. This 1991 MH had a 1996 solar set on it from back then. It was a farce. The "50w" panel was only 32 cells instead of 36. The controller was a joke. To upgrade, the easiest way is to use the existing panel as a platform and strap the new one (could go to 160w and be ok) on top and give it a new controller. The new controller should not be attached to the back of the fridge on the way to the batteries using the existing controller's wiring. (as is likely with yours) Do it right, and with proper gauge wire.
BFL13 06/19/19 08:12pm Tech Issues
RE: No power from new solar panel

Did you check polarity as 'twodownzero' suggested above? And are you certain you connected the panel to the proper input terminals on your controller? There was only one way to connect it, given the locking MC4 plugs available. Knowing the dude who installed this, I'm sure he got the polarity right. It is impossible to understand what you are dealing with from your info provided. No big deal, nobody is an expert at everything. Best thing would be to find the "dude who installed this", and get him to sort it out.
BFL13 06/19/19 05:53pm Tech Issues
RE: Amp Draw

Each GFCI receptacle has a small draw when on 120v supply even with nothing plugged into it. Not an issue, but off-grid on inverter whole house, it adds a little bit to your inverter's draw (with inverter on) from the battery. I saw 0.1 amp DC on Trimetric for each GFCI receptacle as a 120v inverter load.
BFL13 06/19/19 02:53pm Tech Issues
RE: Atwood Hot water heater drain plug

I use the plastic plug, but had a hard time with it too, until I started using this with a 15/16 socket. It needs a slight angle to work it up in there. My 1991 water heater might be different though. http://i67.tinypic.com/2j5eu4g.jpg
BFL13 06/19/19 02:40pm Tech Issues
RE: Please confirm what I think I already know

The "camper" is a 5er it seems. IMO the priority should be redundancy for everything you really need. IE, have a battery charger (10 amp or better) in case your converter fails. Now you can still get by on battery for the 12v stuff, but have to recharge it from your 120v shore power--but no converter! So plug in the battery charger and clamp onto the battery. Get a second battery. No 120 off grid? Need a fan to cool off the dog (and you)? Need an inverter to make some 120v to watch TV? Is the fan 120v or 12v? Can you get fresh water? In what? Can you pour it into your fresh water inlet? Etc. Spend any money on that sort of thing first. Of course the 5er needs a truck. Trucks eat money. What does it need for a cross-country trip pulling a 5er? Solar and small (2200w) inverter/gen when off grid? Or is it cheaper to stay at campgrounds (dubious)? Is it cheaper to just take the truck and stay in motels? Sleep in the back of the truck if it had a canopy? You would not be on this trip unless a job was for sure waiting, so what does that mean for risk money wise that is "worth it" for when you get there? Don't do anything in the first 5 minutes! Wait and give it time to think some more. Keep your powder dry in the meantime. Priorities!
BFL13 06/18/19 05:17pm Tech Issues
RE: Easy start on 2000 watt 13500 btu

I don't have a clue if it will work, but ISTR on here reading that even if it does work the first time or two, the a/c sort of builds up resistance to restarting when cycling on and off. If that is true ???? you could be fooled if it runs ok the first time.
BFL13 06/18/19 04:56pm Tech Issues
RE: No power from new solar panel

Panel connected to the load terminals? (Tee hee)
BFL13 06/18/19 01:01pm Tech Issues
RE: No power from new solar panel

Put a volt meter across the panel itself, without any connection to the controller. Maybe a bad or disconnected diode? So just stick a probe into each lead? (Excuse my ignorance.) Tilt and aim the panel at the sun near noon, no clouds. Panel Voc about 22v so with heat from sun, you should get about 20v Voc. Switch meter to amps and now get approx. 6 amps Isc. Panel good, so check your wiring.
BFL13 06/18/19 12:46pm Tech Issues
RE: Gathering parts to refine my solar

You should fuse the wire from controller to battery. No need to fuse between panels and combiner or from combiner to controller with the three 150s in parallel. (It can be different with them in series, "depending") This guide has it all--worth a study. http://www.cooperindustries.com/content/dam/public/bussmann/Electrical/Resources/technical-literature/bus-ele-an-10191-pv-app-guide.pdf However some controllers like Morningstar don't like it when they are connected to the array but not to a battery. So to make sure that does not happen, you install a switch (that you can get at--so near the controller, not on the roof) between combiner and controller. When swapping out your battery you use the switch first and last After re-installing the battery you let the controller see what voltage the battery is at--as required for a "12/24" controller, then re-connect to the array.
BFL13 06/18/19 07:31am Tech Issues
RE: Gathering parts to refine my solar

Your panels can put out approx. 30 amps, and #8 can handle about 50 amps. You fuse to protect the wire, so maybe a 40amp fuse. The 40 amp fuse will not "choke" 30 amps. #8 should be also good for RV size lengths at 30 amps.
BFL13 06/17/19 09:36pm Tech Issues
RE: DIY MC-4 Connectors- 2nd Photo Added

Added second photo to above post showing a different panel MC-4
BFL13 06/16/19 10:56am Tech Issues
RE: Use a solar controller as a DC to DC charger?

An MPPT controller is a buck converter so output is lower in voltage than input. We had some threads about using controllers with other than solar panels as input such as a DC power supply, and it does work in some cases (not all) I forget the details. Idea was to take advantage of the controller's adjustable settings ISTR.
BFL13 06/15/19 10:46pm Tech Issues
RE: DIY MC-4 Connectors- 2nd Photo Added

http://i63.tinypic.com/30t28mu.jpg Here you can sort of see the little spreaders on the pin that go in past a catcher inside the housing. Once past that catcher ring, you can't pull it back out, because of the spreaders (whatever they are called) The white piece is to keep the end from squeezing in too much when you screw on the end piece. Also shown is an actual MC-4 on a cut-off pigtail from a previous panel I did. It is all glued together so there is nothing to undo. You can use the cut off one but would need to wire nut or somehow otherwise connect the wire to another wire. First step is to mark the positive panel pigtail near its MC-4 with red tape. Once the panel is lying down, you might not be able to tell which is which of the pigtails sticking out. EDIT--OOPS! The new panel has different MC-4s on its pigtails, that do unscrew. (I didn't unscrew them all the way to see inside.) http://i67.tinypic.com/dgm1w2.jpg
BFL13 06/15/19 05:42pm Tech Issues
RE: DIY MC-4 Connectors- 2nd Photo Added

How many inches of pigtail do these panels provide? About 39 inches. Go to the right for drawing of the panel I just got. Same for the 255w panel I got a few months ago. The good thing with that is they can stick out from under the panel after you lay it down, so you can do your wiring hook ups after. http://www.wegosolar.com/products.php?product=DH%252d60P%252d275-Solar-Panel-275W-Poly Side note--panel efficiencies are improving. Guy said they have a new way to cut the silicone so there is less waste and the cells fit together better so the panel can be the same area with more watts---If I got that right. This 275 at 17.8% is very close to the same size as the older 255 at 15.5%. I suppose that matters if you are doing a big array.
BFL13 06/15/19 09:18am Tech Issues
RE: DIY MC-4 Connectors- 2nd Photo Added

I guess I was more ignorant than intrepid. I dug right in and made all my cables. Soldered all the pins. Amazon has all these connectors too. Are you supposed to solder the wire end and pin end after crimping with the fold over tabs and squeezing them? --Some panels have sealed junction boxes so you can't open them up to put your own wire in.
BFL13 06/15/19 08:27am Tech Issues
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