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 > Your search for posts made by 'BFL13' found 1071 matches.

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RE: Charging Timer?

Been many threads on this. A typical three- stage converter does not meet all needs for absorption timing. Eg the CW four hours might be too long or too short. If you use a single stage charger set at 14.6, you want to control the time that is left on. If manual control is not convenient, a timer can be used to pick a suitable absorption time. Mex likes the household type of lights timer on the 120v side. Some fancy chargers will let you set an absorption voltage and an absorption time. I thought this gizmo is an attempt to insert that fancy feature into the DC side of an ordinary charger.
BFL13 10/24/21 03:15pm Tech Issues
RE: Charging Timer?

Who would really return a $10 item if it didn't work? Goodness. Perhaps this particular gizmo is too lightweight for RV work, but it is a good idea for some scenarios?
BFL13 10/24/21 01:55pm Tech Issues
Charging Timer?

Would this gizmo be any use? Instructions at bottom of the link--none come with package as they warn. Not sure I am reading it right--need more eyes on to confirm. Thanks. Seems to answer the problem of how to put a timer on your charger if you don't put a "regular" timer on the 120v. Not clear if you are left with no charging at all. You could have the converter at 13.6 and use another charger at 14.6 with this timer? (when 14.6 time is up the 13.6 would be there to carry on in that case) https://www.ebay.com/itm/224065068787?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item342b519ef3:g:FdoAAOSwxWFe~PRF&amdata=enc%3AAQAGAAAC4PYe5NmHp%252B2JMhMi7yxGiTJkPrKr5t53CooMSQt2orsSvtkx670Z0mbyfWqmxLFLYTYlAnBNUfa%252BjFmbJC7xgCdUb3cTSQ8FZ0VFOJqqmH6r0%252BjnuzCpQsfZSx%252F4Zqka5acpGFWuhiigaWdRj9iOnKoPaw2edL6gM1%252BoDee8ePfU1bSCpe6AKs9Pnpdh7DYZx4H%252F4LHmJghrDdho8fhKqduw%252BTKt0MuWsKTSWjmP3N8Z7d1U7beY1hECaZb6HIFjL56hqb8Mp%252FRMqhRGPXb1NsGL6g6%252BAAQNJ5BB7xBqhpYfKATExmvsbp8b9LWk%252Fz28vj1eFDHhjaiDw7E3nQx7P%252BbKuGy%252FIkT0NnZkKUVQXM5Q679FYiBCuhgdQ%252BC7fMOYpXEcZ5FA3j9DBNHOloL2egjI3kBmGcZZT5xtCZz3EbHbsRuZAuJ5P4%252Fp9pFV3i2Fcd3xQ2lY%252BkwBZD%252BIzdcDx39NNy7yldskkOYT61%252BPTXQ8ipl%252Ftb4f8ISJamI0BsxamdCbhxb%252BCM2SwNFMorpv%252BfLTm%252FpR7Y1OeWmrrZDv5l7mBYjKKorlmx7l%252BeowYmS3ov1IFKHiAemnaJe8vVuYKGOdpWNLFeOWIxddiVz0VK6M34lTsu8BNxxT4YCdeIebx46hAi%252BXLSsgE1YMVRImqulW%252BAh0R6EJoRAKfjzVPeD%252B6ndfSssD%252FcLCVzIEWJpRXMdKacLPyTXtBOWQnQlD4xKgoJumLY8UKMrVeTcBRaA50Mqhtj4r5xZz3v4tBhePUQpCIf%252FI1qOeo%252FF166e%252Fyf9G2b5RN%252F3yedRfIOPU4xN3LTI9HxvTVi3F7MxfbkDWfwJvJkIF%252Fe75h5Io%252FQEJPic3SEYds3sgeEnH2LujE3XC87rcZMEn7b1Sl6CVE32w%252Bra4C9hAI7YMj8qnqPSu21eieKeGJSMDwjOHyZcLIQfMgNoabUxu%252BuTWSHIThy%252BPkUDZjpHjELO0ovjNHkThNHk%253D%7Cclp%3A2334524%7Ctkp%3ABFBMisrzs5Zf
BFL13 10/24/21 11:12am Tech Issues
RE: Coach battery bank not working

You know the battery fuse is ok because the battery powers the 12v things. so the open is not that. You want to know if the converter 13.7v is reaching the DC fuse panel so it can run the 12v stuff. Should see 13.7 at the individual fuses at the panel. If only 12.x (battery voltage) at the panel, then the open is in the converter to DC panel which is also where the converter to battery goes. The battery lugs and the converter connections to the DC meet there. You could have the battery wires on their lugs but one of the converter wires not in its lug.
BFL13 10/21/21 11:16am Tech Issues
RE: Coach battery bank not working

When plugged in and you see 13.3v at the converter output, you should also have about 13.3v at the battery posts. If only 12v there, check your "battery fuse" or DC circuit breaker near the batts somewhere. If it is open, the alternator charging won't reach the batteries either. However, if your batts die after running things for a while, that means that battery fuse is ok since the 12v from the batts can get to the lights and fans etc. Some other "open" would be between the converter and the battery bank. You are getting 12v in the house with alternator running so it is not the DC CB by the isolator, but could be the DC CB at the other end of the wire from the isolator near the batteries (which might be in addition to the "battery fuse") Some MH have some of this in a compartment next to the battery location instead of at the engine battery and house battery locations. I don't have that so others can help there--also with whatever a BIRD is, if it is not the same thing. You need the PD booster control if not fitted so you can put 14.4v to those 6s to charge them properly.
BFL13 10/20/21 11:41am Tech Issues
RE: Magnum MS 2812 Charger/Inverter Issue

Transfer switch letting some through so you see 181 volts (at least not 240! ) ?
BFL13 10/19/21 06:42pm Tech Issues
RE: I want to run a microwave on an inverter

You could run it for the 10 minutes on the two 27s IF they were fully charged to start with, but then you also have to get through the 24 hr day running the furnace etc until the next gen hours lets you recharge the batts. With four 6s or four 27s and being able to recharge the batts at least every day (but only need solar each day in summer in the open for that--needs gen in winter under trees) can run the MW for 10 minutes to do spuds, then right after, 5 minutes to do frozen veggies. Meanwhile steaks get done RVQ outside. The 15 min of MW time at 120a is not what matters with the four 6s. You still have to run the furnace and watch movies on those same batts. It is all about scenario. When do you do this and how often? When are gen hours if any? Got any solar? Is there any sunshine in the forecast? Good idea to run the gen to run the battery charger/converter while also using the inverter to run the MW. Different 120v source plug- ins of course--don't want any 240v!!!! Same thing on 15 amp shore power if that is what you have at somebody's house you are visiting or at a fairground for dog trials. The converter input "supports" the inverter draw from the batts so it is not so hard on just two 27s for that 10 minutes. Means the 10 min is during gen hours in that scenario.
BFL13 10/19/21 06:27pm Tech Issues
RE: Atwood furnace needs new blower motor

This one is for the 8535-IV if same as the 8536 https://www.ebay.com/itm/163792591152?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item2622cc9930:g:g7cAAOSwUgBfMTzP&amdata=enc%3AAQAGAAACsPYe5NmHp%252B2JMhMi7yxGiTJkPrKr5t53CooMSQt2orsSLY2M1Gjmuwt9c03vWNfiRo7L%252FY4mvItrjnEHlyWDHiDtdup25EvrqdfWkaVXyFE%252FCYwPKTiCWnxQ1iWTLHVtgm%252BH1dX7cdvi1ozTSl0mmAI1c6UpunSNOIZAmP4WcI5kPJ65m%252BXSKTq1lsGUIjQF9bEIteLV9vCsVvXxNtstwvKYVtd4n0DfEPYZHxMc5db5VJwyP5fuo1w3Q1MiaTfBnFt360GvEAVGAG5WnvDy2Wphu0IRdVoAjolg4Jlmn0SDalBwWQkNmtSMsl3qC6HgECtOy%252BA8iM0aZHyMuhFJ%252FGayiA%252BsY3Kcps%252BolYW6PFUO55Ur4zi5hVSkdC%252BCllRvnPv7UVCIByBYH9ji4K5ye5Q2KK0Y%252B7uzfO09NuivigyBvWDi%252BKCBVsHhewIi2PVnhkHQLh1zHICNU57nhDBrkBoT3OE3y8yCQ81i4KCw6rCgm1O%252F3iooO%252BELwqI8okCNGiIbx%252FGDsJVDDdPEy3c1RFylFwr%252BLg3j4YlDG56OZUB5nPWoWwfuzRmHLEH4v6KjnmvPLw0jTlaCW%252FSNU%252B5rKuLOjXtJYKEdmuxz7ETAcJ3RtWUhSGL%252BmgRcwVq8PrtnW5lpgDWMce5gvEl5Z97BrwxgwOdukwPANgawOfa3xLTSY%252BJ%252BPWXbs8BBL%252Fq627Vx1HJMIk9tPbWhzE%252FqTYNE3oGIRjkJTIJ4yPYHnYrcn3d6REa5JZ6pKBL%252BJqT56kSyWHe881AMmsaJwdXkYVSwFa1QEWtHjcqAYrModz3DmzhKHfC9q9me2OrgWzkapZBJim9JorlR%252BofPfv4ykBDpxy6LMh0%252FPqdpGkhFh6EDjhPerBh%252Bm4fdoe4Zv353CwoZD10cNxUOzxUMeFgYu0M2klU%253D%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2334524 Replacement for numbers and models PF26157Q, 8535-IV, 8531-35-III, DC 8935-40, 76ZYT-NBK698V
BFL13 10/19/21 03:43pm Tech Issues
RE: 8531 /Burner Issue UPDATE--Photos ( Fixed!)

I got it working. First I found the spare three-prong thing I couldn't find yesterday, which took care of that connector I broke on the other one. (I cancelled my Amazon order for a new one) I swapped out the relay with the spare and doing that found the short red wire to the top of it (the one that was there before) from the bottom of the circuit breaker was loose on its top connection at the relay. So now the voltage at the top of the relay connection is the same as at the circuit breaker. That voltage seems low to me compared with battery voltage and the video guys seem to get closer to the battery voltage on theirs. Whatever, the furnace fires right up at the start and keeps running. I won't know till another time if it keeps running all the way, but at least we can go camping now. EDIT: It ran the RV temp up from 9C to 15C Tstat setting and stopped without cutting in and out. Looking good! Thanks everyone for all the excellent advice and info working with this. :)
BFL13 10/19/21 11:13am Tech Issues
RE: 8531 /Burner Issue UPDATE--Photos ( Fixed!)

https://i.imgur.com/Adjbtogl.jpg]https://i.imgur.com/Adjbtogl.jpg This the before photo of the red wire going on its sparker thing via a spade terminal on the end. At some point today that broke off so there was no place to slide on the wire terminal for it. I widened the wire terminal so it would wrap around the end of the probe end and squeezed it on tight. If that didn't work that might be why there is a click but no spark down at the sparker end above the screen? Thinking of MT BOB's idea there. That spade that broke off was like it had been bent back and forth too many times and I bent it one too many times. If it has been sort of just hanging there since who knows when (years?) perhaps that would explain some of this? OTOH, once it sparks and it fires the gas, does it ever spark again until the next cycle? I was having the burner cut out and then spark re-light several times during a cycle until the last one that got the Tstat to shut it off. After the RV cooled down, it would start again by Tstat and same story on and off till the RV got back to Tstat shut off. My new three prong part should take care of that red wire connection if that is now too bad to work right, but that leaves maybe a ground issue or any of those other things on the list it might be. I could try to solder that on where it is squeezed on, but not sure it would "take" or just be a cold solder with that metal.
BFL13 10/18/21 09:47pm Tech Issues
RE: 8531 /Burner Issue UPDATE--Photos ( Fixed!)

I have another relay I can try that was on the 111 or 11, not sure now which is on the one in use. I see how that goes looking at this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QxDOw4LAWyo I can check voltages again after swapping relays. The "CB" has a white thing on the end that says 10A and seems to screw in so it looks like it is a fuse, don't know. I have a spare one of those too. Meanwhile I ordered the three-prong part on spec, should have it in a week or two. I'll fiddle with it all some more tomorrow and report back :) I checked out the limit switch last time and it was not that. I have the right size limit switch in there, as they have two with different limits.
BFL13 10/18/21 08:46pm Tech Issues
RE: 8531 /Burner Issue UPDATE--Photos ( Fixed!)

Did you find where you were loosing the nearly half of volt in the 12 volt portion? No. Do you mean between the 10A ? fuse?/CB on the left and the timer on the right? EDIT--this guy says if you smell gas and hear a click the problem is on the burner side. I will get a new three-prong thing and try that. I must have done something today to make it worse than it was so now it doesn't work at all! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AB69oqtSiwc
BFL13 10/18/21 06:49pm Tech Issues
RE: I want to run a microwave on an inverter

You need a 2000w inverter for that job. We do that all the time. You want a good sized battery bank to run that inverter such as four 6s. In a smaller Rv you could use LFP or SiO2 batts so the inverter will not alarm off while it is running the MW, but you still need AH to run the furnace etc that night. Just means recharge more often so keep the Honda handy! Inverter at 120amps for 10 minutes is 20AH, not too much, but that is not the only AH draw for the 24 hr day of camping Main thing is gen quiet hours. You can run the things off inverter early in the morning before gen hours let you recharge the batts. Same thing at night--watch movies off inverter, no gen noise, and then recharge with the Honda next day during gen hours. With a TC you can carry batteries ahead of the wheel wells in the truck and then wire them up with the camper slid in part way so the wires will reach inside. That way you can carry four 6s, eg, two in the truck bed and two in the camper's battery box. Lots of ways around the problem. Keep the Honda with you!
BFL13 10/18/21 06:21pm Tech Issues
RE: 8531 /Burner Issue UPDATE--Photos ( Fixed!)

Did the clean ups, bent the three prongs down a bit, got it all back together, and now all I get is the fan and some clicks, smell gas, no flame. Pulled it out with no gas line, all wires connected and turned on Tstat, still runs with fan and then clicks, but no spark seen on the sparker ends. Tried my other boards I thought were not working right before and same thing. The board that was working till today (except for the cutting in and out business) was at least getting the burner to light after the click. Not now. That "rusty" plate the prongs are on is actually copper that shines up so it is not as bad as it looks in the photo. No idea what to try next! Maybe I should get that three-prong part from Amazon since it is not costly. I could get a new board but I am not convinced that is the problem yet.
BFL13 10/18/21 06:00pm Tech Issues
RE: 8531 /Burner Issue UPDATE--Photos ( Fixed!)

Thanks all, for the great help! What is the "snap switch"? I might have a spare I can swap in.
BFL13 10/18/21 04:10pm Tech Issues
RE: 8531 /Burner Issue UPDATE--Photos ( Fixed!)

Could be the control board--I did just clean the edge contacts so have to try that first when I put this thing back together. Found the other metal part in my spares box--it has the white gasket in better shape than the one in use. Now I don't know if the gasket should be better or keep using the one there now. What is it for? Ok, do the screws make a ground contact between the two pieces of metal so the idea is to clean where the underside of the screw tops touch the plate? (And the underside of the screw tops as needed.) https://i.imgur.com/SLQLT10l.jpg]https://i.imgur.com/SLQLT10l.jpg
BFL13 10/18/21 03:59pm Tech Issues
RE: 8531 /Burner Issue UPDATE--Photos ( Fixed!)

I would clean the mounting plate of the rust. Make sure it has good ground contact. Is the "mounting plate" the part that has the three prongs and has the white stuff between it and the other metal part? Do I scrape off the white backing stuff and try for metal to metal? I could shim that so the prongs are tilted down more to the screen if that would help EDIT-- looks like a papery sort of gasket--maybe it is supposed to be there and I better not scrape it off? https://i.imgur.com/COxm37dl.jpg]https://i.imgur.com/COxm37dl.jpg Here it is --no gasket? I will try for the other part to see if it has it. https://www.amazon.com/Atwood-36998-Hydro-Furnace-Electrode/dp/B00CLSWK2U/ref=sr_1_10?dchild=1&keywords=Hydro+Flame+8531-II+furnace+burner+assembly&qid=1634592763&sr=8-10
BFL13 10/18/21 03:00pm Tech Issues
RE: 8531 /Burner Issue UPDATE--Photos ( Fixed!)

Got some photos I hope you techs can interpret. https://i.imgur.com/PXGgoLGl.jpg]https://i.imgur.com/PXGgoLGl.jpg Side view of three-prong above burner screen- can't bend them down closer https://i.imgur.com/9XFZcUal.jpg]https://i.imgur.com/9XFZcUal.jpg Top view--screen not rusted out, fairly new burner head. https://i.imgur.com/1RTqGuBl.jpg]https://i.imgur.com/1RTqGuBl.jpg The spade where the black wire goes on is rusty except it is shiny where it was covered by the black wire's terminal--I can't tell if the rusty outside part on the shiny probe part sticking out is clean inside making good contact or not. I will clean the end but can't do anything about where it is on the probe. The black wire seems ok but don't know where it goes to back towards the circuit board--clean that end too if I can find it? EDIT--black wire to plug on edge of board--cleaned board contacts and plug--didn't seem to need it. The rusty plate screwed on that holds the three probes has some kind of white stuff on it you see there so it is not making contact with the other metal part there (if it is supposed to) except maybe with the two screws. Is that the ground I am worried about?
BFL13 10/18/21 02:32pm Tech Issues
RE: 8531 /Burner Issue UPDATE--Photos ( Fixed!)

Thanks. I have the older three-prong type with the sensor separate from the sparker, but same idea. I will get at it later. Don't like when it cuts out--suspense until it cuts in again. Would hate to have to come home from camping early if the furnace quits entirely.
BFL13 10/18/21 01:07pm Tech Issues
RE: 8531 /Burner Issue UPDATE--Photos ( Fixed!)

I had this problem before (two years ago) and got some help on here with it all, and swapped some parts from a 111 I got off a guy. Eventually I got a 111's board from a 98 MH being parted out and that got it working right. New burner head (old one had screen rusted out) Now it is starting to act up again. ISTR I swapped the squirrel cage fan-- found out how to get it off here--that was to try a new limit switch you have to get the fan off first to get at. The one in there now is metal and heavier than the plastic one I have in the spares box. Can't remember which is the 11 vs the 111's. Anyway it spins ok, and the delay for burner on at the start after fan runs and then at the end for fan to stay on after burner off is working right. It is just the burner cutting in and out when it should just stay on. I can haul the burner end out again and check the wiring for the flame sensor and however it is grounded. Is there a way to check the voltage with it out? Maybe turn the Tstat to on? Is there any voltage when there is no gas?
BFL13 10/18/21 12:14pm Tech Issues
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