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 > Your search for posts made by 'BenK' found 169 matches.

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RE: Why do I keep blowing out tires on my truck?

Another thought... Front tires don't get nail induced flats as often as rear tires, because the front tire will kick up the nail that has been laying on its side. Then the nail dances upright for the rear tire to hit it. 50/50 whether nail head or pointed end. Right side says the OP, so that means road shoulder more often than the left side and dependent where/how the OP drives Then if the OP has had that rear, passenger side tire repaired in the wrong area of the tire...it will have it low on air often and why asked the OP if the right rear was low more often than the others. Running too low PSI damage is cumulative and if the OP drives on the fast side of speed limits, accelerates the heating to separate the tread.
BenK 08/02/21 10:53am Tow Vehicles
RE: Why do I keep blowing out tires on my truck?

Here is some tire repair info in case the OP has had those tires repaired improperly https://www.discounttiredirect.com/learn/tire-repair https://cdn.discounttire.com/sys-master/images/h73/h8d/8846097317918/EDU_tire-repair_2017.jpg width=680
BenK 07/31/21 09:02pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Why do I keep blowing out tires on my truck?

You need to provide more info in order for an Internet guesstimate solution. How fast do your drive empty..towing heavy… What is the condition of the roads you travel Is your gauge correct? And if so, is ‘that’ wheel’s tire valve stem changed with each tire change & is rated for LT 10 ply’s 80 PSI? Passenger tire valve stems have some NOT rated for 80 PSI. Since several and different OEM’s with the same way failed…thinking more to do with what has been common to them all. The valve rating above to is that wheel true ? Does it have a pinhole leak ? (On that, does it always read low and needs topping off, while the others don’t?) Has all the tires from all OEMs been repaired and if so, were they only repaired in the RMA’s recommended area? It is smaller an area than most think, and is only in the radial BELT area and NOT over towards the tread edge. Worst is on the sidewall. That is the best I can think of with the info the OP has posted.
BenK 07/31/21 08:11pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Ultimate payload monster?

Why been saying for years and years...forget the marketing labels and just use the GVWR/GAWR those are real ratings that tell what it is But...technical numbers don't sell to the masses...and "King of the Hill" stuff sells... Like a VW towing a 747, or the new F150 EV towing a million pounds...
BenK 07/30/21 11:04am Tow Vehicles
RE: Great Tow Capacity - Bad Payload Capacity... Increase PL?

You can only change the official OEM label ratings by hiring someone/company to re-certify & make the modifications they spell out in their certification paperwork, but that may cost more than just going out and purchasing a bigger vehicle. You can also add/modify everything up to the AAM's 11000 GAWR, but the 'official OEM rating still stands' Best to go out and actually weigh your TV axle by axle fully loaded as if going to tow. Then subtract that from the OEM listed GCWR and that will be the OEM's official MTWR for your TV. Most are extremely surprised that their vehicle weighs more than the door labeled TV weight. Then deal with the expected PIN weight vs your ACTUAL remaining TV rear axle payload .
BenK 07/28/21 10:11am Tow Vehicles
RE: New vehicle - MSRP?

MSRP & the label it is printed on is a federally mandated because of the uneducated (ignorant on HOW2 find the pricing and options pricing) buyers being fleeced by sale folks. Levels the playing field to an official price for everyone...that also requires the selling dealer to list EVERYTHING and the associated price for those line items You can do better in most cases and even more so today with internet purchasing sites.
BenK 07/28/21 10:05am Tow Vehicles
RE: 1/2 ton towing a 5th wheel

Best is to load up your TV as if going camping with the RV. People, Pets, ice chest, fire wood, etc, etc. Then weigh it axle by axle. Subtract the actual, rear axle weight from the TV’s door label listing the rear axle rating (GAWR) That is what ‘your’ TV is rated to carry in the bed…AKA Fiver PIN weight in this case Then you will know where you are in freference to your TV’s capacity
BenK 07/20/21 02:13pm Tow Vehicles
RE: tow truck THIKS its overheating

Suggest posting on the Ford F150 forum As for the dealer unable to find the issue, try another dealer or ASE Master Mechanic specializing in thermal management. For your dash gauge to go into the red zone and go into limp mode, there has to be a code set. A simple code reader should find that code. If no code set, then there will be too many things that might be taking the thermal system down. Personally dislike overly complex vehicles and their level of diagnostics (today). Lastly, what was the last time you had the HOATs coolant flushed ? and...have you been opening the closed coolant system? That allows air & the main culprit is oxygen being allowed into the HOATs mix, which is very bad and will cause acid laden globules to form and stick to cooling areas (radiator tubes) to both plug and rot it out from the inside
BenK 07/19/21 12:39pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Tesla Semi truck unveil & test ride set for Oct 26th !

SEC law suit is now on going and is the second one that I know of. First one Tusk lost and judgement was $20Millon from the corporation and $20million from Tusk. Normally as both punishment and to warn via that 'lesson' to not do it again. This one looking like billion$ if Tusk loses, but he (Tusk) has a huge following that might include folks making judgement... Again, personally think Tusk is a genius, but not as smart as he & others think he is...
BenK 07/13/21 01:24pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Reviewing results from CAT scale weigh in

OP's 8.1L Sub is a GMT800, not the GMT900 with the welded in receiver that also serves crumple zone duties But...the OP has that, IMHO, dumb receiver design and suggest, if it hasn't been already, replace it with a traditional receiver https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/27745475
BenK 07/13/21 01:10pm Towing
RE: 2018 Expedition - Rear spring upgrade

Independent rear suspension (IRS) and adding helper springs introduces different moments & loading vs a live axle. Also, the lower link is at an angle. As would be the pivot point at the pumpkin attachment area to handle the cantilever moment, the tire/pavement has both forward and reverse. The stoutness between a live axle and IRS has the Live axle's ability higher. With that, adding a higher rate coil spring, a better approach vs any of the aux springs that place their contact point on that lower link. Suggest looking into the highest WD Bars to get more weight off of the TV's rear and WD'd to the TV's front...of course within the TT's tongue 'actual' weight.
BenK 07/13/21 11:36am Tow Vehicles
RE: Reviewing results from CAT scale weigh in

Unless your year's door sticker had 'as shipped' weight, the curb of old was the stripper model without power windows/etc, no carpeting, cardboard door panels, ZERO options like ac, automatic, etc Here is the smog sheet for my 1996 K3500 Suburban and it lists 'curb' as 5250lbs and it weight around 7200lbs at the local garden scale with me/toolbox/misc cargo https://i.imgur.com/ewfDvQ5l.jpg "border=0" https://i.imgur.com/m3zZPvb.pngClick For Full-Size Image. Best to go back to the scales and weigh it as is. Ditto for the tongue, go to the scales and weigh it. There is a way to figure it out from weighing all of the axles plus NOT having the WD tensioned. That will then tell you what WD bar rating you should have. Think Blue Ox Sway Pro bars come in 1,400 lb rating
BenK 07/10/21 12:53pm Towing
RE: Reviewing results from CAT scale weigh in

My comments in red and report back on how it goes. Your model year is one of the last real truck based full sized SUV's and has a much stronger ladder frame than the newer models that has the rear frame section designed with crumple zone duties. Why their receiver is bracketed to the frame & limited hitch weight of 1,000 lbs Hello - and thanks up front for the help. I know this is long post with lots of questions. :-) I just weighed TV and TT at CAT scales. I would like to share the numbers, get your take, and I have three questions. Background: - TV is 2003 2500 suburban with 8.1 L, autoride suspension, 3.73 rear end, and LT245/75R16 tires. The autoride might interfere with your WD system. Check your manual on HOW2 adjust a WD Hitch system. Have read advice ranging from 'turn it off while adjusting the WD Hitch system' to 'leave it on while' - TT is 30 foot with 9500 GVWR - WDH is blue ox. I set hitch almost as "strong" meaning there us only 2-3 more links available. Which Blue Ox? I like their 'Sway Pro' and there are spring bar ratings. So make sure the correct bar rating for the trailer tongue weight. - During weighing TT had empty tanks and usual stuff when we camp. TV had 1/2 tank of gas and usual stuff we take camping. Weight measurements - TV only Front axle 3640lbs Rear axle 3540 lbs Total 7180 TT and TV - Front axle 3440 lbs Check your manual for the proper front axle condition after setting up the WD Hitch system. My Suburban's manual says return to normal height (no trailer tongue on the ball) If yours is 4x4, note that there is now a second set of front axle springs, and they are the bump stops, which rests on the lower arm. But, IMHO, not enough tongue weight has been WD'd to the front axle. You will hear many differing opinions, but we advisors have no skin in 'your' game. Up to you to decide Rear axle 5280 lbs TT axles 7500 lbs Total 16220 lbs Question 1 - internet shows curb weight of TV= 5796 lbs. Is that right? How can I be 1384 lbs over curb weight with 2 ppl and 1/2 a tank of gas? Question 2 - what is the GCWR for my TV? I can't find that anywhere. I know towing capacity of TV is 10,400 lbs. Question 3 - total weight on both TV axles with TT attached is 8720 lbs. GVWR of TV is 8600 lbs. Am I unsafe? My GAWR front is 4180 lbs and 5500 on rear axle. So I am not maxing out axle rating. Question 4 - with TT attached front axle is 200 lbs lighter than without TT. I don't have many more links available on WDH. Do I need a different hitch? Thanks so much and again I am sorry for the long post!!
BenK 07/09/21 01:06pm Towing
RE: trailer brake issue

Below link might help some understand HOW2 us dielectric grease on electrical contacts. https://www.thedrive.com/maintenance-repair/39173/dielectric-grease Or lookup "electrical contact wiping", which has the mating contacts "wipe" against themselved. This wipes off oxidation to get metal to metal. Dielectric Grease gets wiped off during that mating and whatever grease is left will seal the connection.
BenK 06/29/21 06:47pm Tow Vehicles
RE: trailer brake issue

Etrailer recommends the use of dielectric grease...checkout their HOW2 on the link below https://www.etrailer.com/faq-dielectric-grease.aspx
BenK 06/29/21 06:18pm Tow Vehicles
RE: trailer brake issue

Most all of the similar problems helped others with…ended up with the trailer wiring. Most common was the harness to the drum brake. 2nd most is the routing and some trailer OEMs uses daisy-chain. After unplugging & cleaning contacts & applying dia electric grease most were better. Best has been to retire the trailer with dedicated runs from each wheel brake directly to a central point by the coupler. If you go that route, increase the wire gauge and only use ringlugs…NEVER tap connectors (they were invented for telephone use…a static application)
BenK 06/29/21 02:57pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Do I have have enough Truck?

This is the brake chart from my 1996 Suburban shop manual https://i.imgur.com/xtRjBWTl.jpg "border=0" https://i.imgur.com/m3zZPvb.pngClick For Full-Size Image. You can look up the RPO code on the glove box RPO label Or, measure your rear drum brake shoe width. Mine is the JB8. Most 3/4 ton Sub’s have the JD7 and why tongue-n-cheek refer to mine as a K3500 Link to an old, old thread here and is where found that brake RPO code image https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/25116103/print/true.cfm
BenK 06/27/21 08:22pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Do I have have enough Truck?

Welcome to the forum ! Mine is a 1996 K3500, 7.4L Suburban with 4.1’s. Upgraded brakes to be similar to yours. Only thing not upgraded to like yours is the front disc & friction material (not as thick, but swept area is about the same). Am not going to comment on a fiver, as don’t have much experience with them. Just played around with them helping church members figure out their issues. First, our rear axles are from AAM and AAM rates it at 10,000 GAWR. GM rates ours at 6K GAWR. Don’t know whether spring pack, brakes, or ??? Dodge of same era also uses that same AAM axle. Brakes on GMT400 in stock form is barely okay when up to snuf. Can be made to be very good to GREAT. Dodge of same ear also used similar front brakes and also had problems. Main issue is the caliper slide assembly, over time, stick. Key to knowing that is to check if one side friction material is wearing out faster than the opposite side. What happens is that the caliper assembly sticks and locks one side so it is misaligned. (Edit…had to change to ‘locks’…bad word filter forbid he word initially used) Solution is to super tune the caliper slide assembly, if you haven’t yet. Get OEM rebuild kit and be sure to use the new O-rings. Tough to get them installed and know many who just give up and toss them. I use Sta-Lube high temp brake grease that has a high amount of Molybdenum Sulfide pre-mixed. Mix it with Mobil 1 to reduce the viscosity a bit. Generously coat the O-Rings and the slide bore/tube with above grease. Poke in the slide tube and almost poked out the other side. Almost, so as to allow filling that cavity between the tube and cast iron bore. Leave some air, as too much will have it expand and leak. Then assemble as per manual and use the highest performance (hardest) friction material you can find. They will make much more noise, but that is the way of performance friction material. Doesn’t bother me, as know I have nose bleed brakes…have out stopped a sedan where they just barely rear ended me. The G80 locker is a clutch type from Eaten. Ours has a governor set too high before it tosses in that clutch to lock. Newer governor is set at around 200 RPM differential. Older will lock with too much differential (and much more power) RPMs and grenades the diff. 1995 has the thermal safety set higher than mine and will go into the various limp modes too soon. Buddy removed the main thermo set point on his 1995 K3500 Suburban and it be got both higher MPG & stay longer in power mode. Along with a 180*F thermostat (mine too) get power mode most times when nailing the throttle. Don’t know what your tuner will do with the Cummins & Allison, but they should know all that. Designed a AFT aux cooler mounted midship for him. on my list, but haven’t done it yet. Two 45,000 lb rated plate ATF coolers with an electric radiator fan. Didn’t put in a bypass valve and just made sure the ATF also ran into & through the main radiator. His dash coolant temp gauge drop like a rock when that external ATF cooler’s fans turned on. He towed an approx 10,000 lb trailer. Assume you have heard of the DuraBurb with a Duramax diesel/Alison combo. Should be lots of info that applies to your planned Cummins/Alison combo. Good luck and report back on this thread !
BenK 06/27/21 03:00pm Tow Vehicles
RE: A/T P tires in front, Highway LT's in back, any problem?

think of wearing different brand/size/type/etc shoes. Tennis shoes to hiking boots Walking around the house would be fine...but...then try running as fast as you can to then 'maneuver' around things. Those difference will affect during extreme conditions. Like braking & swerving trying to avoid something. I'd not do it
BenK 06/26/21 01:05pm Towing
RE: Loss of Power after New Fan Clutch

Another potential that is forgotten about the current OATs & HOATs coolants They all have a nasty reaction, or activation, during a very high temp event. Since the 'A'cid component works by etching metal down to clean metal & plating a protective layer of organic...it leaves the etched off oxide(s) floating in the coolant till it is flushed at the manual's recommended frequency (miles and/or time based). During a very high temp event, that floating glob of acid/oxide reacts in that high temp area. Most typically inside the radiator tubes by sticking to it. While there, it attracts more of these floating globules. Creating a narrowing of that tube, which reduces the coolant flow, which exacerbates the thermal rejection rate, which then creates an ever hotter spot. Also eats away the radiator tube from the inside. This also happens in other coolant radiator tubes...like the heater core. Meaning the OP's radiator might be compromised and needs either rebuilding the radiator by rodding it out & new tank gaskets...and/or...a complete coolant flush.
BenK 06/23/21 01:51pm Tow Vehicles
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