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 > Your search for posts made by 'BigToe' found 7 matches.

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RE: Pickup bed delete or cab chassis (C&C)?

If you take a good look at a c&c truck and take some measurements I think you will find that the axle bump stops will prevent the wheels from ever going above the truck frame so there is really no need for a hump above the flatbed unless you have oversized wheels/tires . You just have to watch the flatbed framing so the wheels have a pocket under the deck . The narrower axle on the c&c is the same width as a srw pickup so you can also convert to srw by removing the dually spacers on the front hubs and use srw wheels . If one side of the axle is in full contact with its bump stop while the opposite side of the axle is furthest away from its bump stop, then the outer shoulder of the tire furthest outboard on the side of the axle in full contact with the bump stop will be higher than the frame. The axle and tire assembly is a rigid straight line approximately 94" long inclusive of the outer tires in a chassis cab dually, with a radius of 47" from an assumed central pivot point at the pinion. The chassis cab frame is 34" wide web to web, with the bump stops under slung on the lower flange... so let's call the initial contact point of taper tipped bump stops 1" inboard from the web, supported by a 3" wide flange. Hence, the radius of the initial contact point of the bump stops is 16". We can make a horizontally level example stick that is 47" long, painted with bright marks at 0", 16", and 47". We can place this stick on a table that is pushed up against a wall, where the wall has vertical measuring marks on it in one inch increments, where 0" is table height, and 6" is as high as we need to measure. We can then move our stick on the table such that the 16" mark on the stick aligns with the vertical measuring line on the wall. If we anchor this stick to the table at the 0" mark on the stick, and fix our gaze at the 16" mark on the stick that coincides with the 0" mark on the wall, while raising the unanchored end of the stick up until the 16" mark is about 5" above the table... how high will the 47" end of the stick be? 5" approximates the maximum axle travel available between the axle and the bump stops. In an extreme twist ditch maneuver, such as what may be encountered crossing a drainage gully over a fire road, one side of the axle may be all the way down in the ditch, while the other side of the axle is compressed all the way up on an embankment. The 62" difference in width, or 31" difference in radius, between the bump stop versus the outboard edge of the tire (that itself is 16" higher perpendicularly to the axial center of the straight line), dictates that the outer ends of the tires can extend higher than the tops of the frame rails when one end of the axle is in full jounce while the other end of the axle is in full rebound. Body building guides available from the chassis cab manufacturers recommend making allowances for this.
BigToe 09/08/21 09:23am Truck Campers
RE: Straight-line weight distribution system

Wow, that green line you drew as a circle looks like a 3D alien worm... one of those visual puzzles like the infinite stairway. Thanks for redoubling your efforts to teach the hopelessly thick, but alas, my browser does not present the option you so clearly and kindly circled. I only have 2 choices... view post from new to old, or view posts from old to new. And it appears that Good Sam's definitions of "old" as presented in my browser doesn't go back beyond 2 pages. There is no option in that box on my screen to select "Last 14 Days". Thanks once again for going through the trouble to post a pic, because I know that sometimes isn't easy, as it takes several steps to do it. So know that I appreciate your help, even if the option isn't presented in my screen.
BigToe 04/26/21 09:56pm Towing
RE: Which 19.5" tire to choose

Started doing it (siping) on mud tires because they don’t have any or few factory sipes. But it (sipes) even helps on AT or HT treads. Same concept as snow tires. Generally the trucks that run over the passes in the winter, I sipe the tires. Difference is night and day on mudders and it makes them not only good in deep/loose snow, with the big open lugs but helps the lugs grip the slippery stuff as well. On AT tires which are like good at most conditions but not the best at anything, it’s also a noticeable improvement. On any tires, especially heavier trucks, I don’t have them siped all the way out to the edges. That serves to wear out the shoulder treads much quicker. Just the inner tread rows and maybe halfway into the outer rows. One of the main reasons I chose the Michelin XDS2 (225/70R19.5G) drive tire was due to all the factory cut SIPES already included and designed into the tire, without having to pay to have the tire tread sliced into by a tire jockey after the fact. The XDS2 has 700 zig zagging sipes per tire. There are 200 treadblocks circumnavigating the tire in four rows. The two center rows of treadblocks have 4 sipes per individual treadblock, and there are 50 treadblocks per row. That's where 400 of the sipes can be found. The two outer rows of treadblocks have 3 sipes per treadblock, and being outer rows, the three sipes are not cut all the way out to the edges, but rather only extend about half way across the outer treadblocks, from inboard of the tire, such that the outermost shoulder of the outside treadbocks is solid, to provide the shoulder support that @gritdog mentions in the quote above. The total "half way across" sipes of the two outer rows of treadblocks is 300 sipes, plus the 400 full width cut sipes of the two central rows of treadblocks, equals 700 factory cut sipes per tire. No other 19.5" tire on the market back in 2011 had more, or even near as many, factory formed sipes in the treadblocks as the Michelin XDS2. As I look to replace these tires solely due to time (10 years) not treadwear (plenty of tread left, with Lincoln's head upside down, the treadblocks still reach his chin!), a sipe count will definitely be part of any comparison of 19.5 tires available on the market this year.
BigToe 04/26/21 09:18am Truck Campers
RE: Operational problems with new diesel pickups

The 7.3L Godzilla gasser Ford comes with the same 10-sp tranny as the equivalent Powerstroke. The 10R140 10 speed transmission is NOT the same between the 7.3L gas and the 6.7L diesel engines in Ford Super Duties. Differences between Gas, Diesel, Pickup, and Chassis Cab versions of 10 speed 10R140 Individual clutch plates are dropped (deleted) from two clutch pack elements in the Gas version, hence the Diesel version has more clutch holding surface area than Gas version Pinion gears are dropped (deleted) from two planetary gear sets in the Gas version Diesel version has four pinion planetaries where the gas version has 3 pinion planetaries in two out of the four planetary gear sets in the transmission The fluid capacity is a tenth of a quart less in the Diesel version, likely due to the additional space the two extra pinion gears and clutch plates occupy within the case An auto Neutral in Idle mode is available in Chassis Cabs, that is not available in Pickups The PTO provision must be ordered in Gas version, and in Pick Ups, regardless of engine The PTO is standard in Diesel Chassis Cabs whether ordered or not (new for 2020)
BigToe 04/26/21 08:31am Tow Vehicles
RE: Straight-line weight distribution system

I'm not sure why the forum history is truncated to only two pages, At the top of the forum there is a box where you can change how many pages you see. Mine defaults to the last 14 days, but it can be increased up to as high as 12 months. Bobbo, thank you for taking the time to share the forum navigation tip. I looked for, but could not find, any "box" at the "top of the forum" where one could change how many pages of history can be seen. I also checked in the "Preferences" settings under "My Forums", and wasn't able to find any history depth setting there either. Still, even if I were able to find that box, and increase the look back of posts "as high as 12 months"... 12 months is not very high. 12 years isn't even high enough to capture the burgeoning content that flowed through this forum 15 years ago, specifically on the topic of this thread (straight line WD system). This obviously is not your fault or doing... and I very much appreciate your help. It is a puzzle, across many fora, how only "recent" posts are valued, where "old threads" are relegated away as irrelevant to current issues. And that's too bad, because if folks had access to "old" information, they might not have the current issues.
BigToe 04/26/21 08:20am Towing
RE: Straight-line weight distribution system

I likewise have owned and used the Reese Straightline Dual Cam for the last 15 years. JBarca has, over the same period of time, posted some remarkably well written, and well illustrated (with detailed, annotated photographs) information on the set up, care, and feeding of the Reese Dual Cam system. I'm not sure why the forum history is truncated to only two pages, because John alone has singlehandedly produced enough data on the Reese Dual cam... original data... far beyond the instructions offered by Reese, Cequent, or Horizon... to be conferred a Ph.D. on the topic, if RV'ing was institutionalized as a formal education. Everyone will likely agree that RV'ing is an education, and we are lucky that a few members of this forum have gone above and beyond the call of duty of a neighboring camper, to offer as much help on setting up the Reese Dual Cam as John has over the last decade and a half. It puzzles me though, that this forum has appeared to change, not readily revealing the many prior posts that cover this topic? Another change that has taken place over the same number of years is the manufacturing quality of Reese products. The cam arms that Reese sells today, from China, are not the same material, with the same corrosion protection coating, or same casting/construction design, as the cam arms that many of the members here are talking about having for 13, 15, 17, and 20 plus years. I remember ordering a second Reese Straightline High Performance Dual Cam system for another tow rig set up about 12 years ago, and it was "cheaper made" than what I had ordered 15 years ago. That was before Horizon Global. The changes in other Reese products made since Horizon Global give me pause enough to say only this... the longevity and performance that I have enjoyed with Reese products of yesteryear is no guarantee that Reese products of today will last as long or perform the same. I own a lot of Reese towing products... from the 30K medium duty 5th wheel hitch to the Signature Series (aka Elite Series in later years) underbed puck system to the Titan (and temporarily called Tow Beast) receiver hitch products (on both Ford and GM) to all the bric a brac ball mounts, trunnion heads, spring bars (from 800 lbs to 1,700 lbs), and sleeve inserts. One cannot accuse me of not liking Reese products. But I have not liked the direction that Reese has gone. On the other hand, and specific to the Reese Dual cam WD / anti sway system, Reese did improved the snap up bracket design that attaches to the trailer tongue, adding stiffening gussets that prevent the bracket from opening up. Anyways, post your details, and the long time regulars here will get you sorted.
BigToe 12/10/20 01:25pm Towing
RE: Replacing 1972 16.5 Inch Rims Advice

Even though you’ve ditched this thread, I’ll add, offset or backspacing likely has nothing to do with it clearing the calipers. I can’t recall any truck up until the early 2000s that had big enough brakes to not clear 16” rims. Can't say I blame Sweet Lou, if he in fact did ditch this thread, after you got done with him! So let me get my licks in too... The 16" rim is actually wider in diameter than a 16.5" rim. The difference is in the bead taper, which is steeper and more abrupt in a 16" (and all "even" sized truck rims) at 5 degrees, whereas the 16.5" rim has a shallower more gradual bead taper, at 15 degrees. The steeper bead taper of the 16" rim, combined with the taller bead lip, makes for more secure tire retention, and also makes the outermost diameter (lip edge to lip edge) greater than that of a 16.5" rim. The drop center contour is also different, and I don't anticipate any issues accommodating what I assume to be drum brakes on the 1972. That being said, if it were my 1972, and it had original equipment rims, I'd be hard pressed to make the swap, even though I did exactly that in my 1979 E-350 van. In fact, 3/4 and one ton van wheels from the 80's and up offer another source of 16" rims with the 8x6.5" bolt pattern. The bump side bodies stick out a bit from the axle track width on that vintage of Ford truck, so as far as visual appearance, a 265 tire will appear to fill the wheel wells... in width, not just height... better than the most fuel efficient 215 tires.
BigToe 12/10/20 12:51pm Tow Vehicles
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