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 > Your search for posts made by 'BillHoughton' found 8 matches.

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RE: Two questions: fridge OOPS! and battery boost relay

As mentioned up top, I talked with Winnebago yesterday and got some advice. I then went out to the RV and tried some stuff. Below is what I learned: Fridge: The Winnebago rep thought it should be OK. I turned on the propane, set the fridge to run on propane (rather than the dual-fuel electricity/propane/fridge chooses option), and, after 24 hours, it's running fine. I'll let it run for a few days just to confirm, but the freezer's down to 15 degrees Fahrenheit, so it seems to be OK. Yay. Boost relay: On the 2007 Navion (and, likely, other, similar Itascas), the relay, and some circuit breakers, are under an extension of the "house" floor than runs forward between the cab seats. The Winnebago rep said, "you just lift the carpet." It turns out that you lift a heavy flat metal cover, carpeted on the top, that's hinged on the passenger side, and there's a cover, held down with screws, over the relays (that's what it says on the cover, anyhow). That cover's toward the rear end of the extension; the circuit breakers are behind a cover that's down in a well in the front end (wow! Another weird storage spot!). There's no obvious handle; I started tugging on the carpet in random spots, and the cover hinged up. It didn't occur to Winnebago, as far as I can see, to put any kind of catch to keep the cover up; so, if I need to work in that space, I'll need to come up with something to hold it up so it doesn't crush my fingers. The relay (aka solenoid) comes out to a battery-cable-sized cable (that is, a heavy/large cable) that's held on the battery clamp with a nut. I've realized that I can test relay function by removing that cable from the battery clamp and testing for voltage with and without the boost relay (momentary) toggle switch activated. If I'm not getting voltage, I can then open the cover and explore further. I generally do electrical fault tracing from the origin point to the end, but no reason I can't work backwards. It's a small cover; I bet if I have to remove the relay/solenoid, I'll be exercising my 56+ years of mechanical skill and my 74+ years of learning curse words.
BillHoughton 10/25/22 04:53pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Two questions: fridge OOPS! and battery boost relay

Is the fridge a Dometic 3-way? No, Norcold NS series.
BillHoughton 10/22/22 04:36pm Class C Motorhomes
Two questions: fridge OOPS! and battery boost relay

Two questions on our 2007 Itasca Navion. I've asked these questions of Winnebago Friday, and will surely hear back next week, but I'll appreciate hearing from the brain trust here, too. Later edit: I talked with a Winnebago rep yesterday and got some good advice; and then learned some more by inspecting the RV. I'm posting what I learned here as a reply down below, for the use of future folks with these issues. Fridge oops and testing: at the end of a camping trip recently, I accidentally left the fridge (Norcold NS series) on, running on propane (even left the propane valve open), while parking twice, for periods of 20 minutes or so each time, at front-to-back angles for the RV of more than two degrees - probably more like five, although I didn’t look. The manual calls for side-to-side tolerances for the fridge (and thus front-to-back for the RV) of two degrees. As soon as we realized the problem, we pulled over and turned off the fridge and propane. The RV is now parked in its level parking spot. Can I safely test whether I fried the refrigerator by turning it on to run on propane for several days? Are there tests I can perform/components I can examine to determine whether I broke it? Boost relay: This relay connects the house battery to the motor battery, to jump-start the RV if the motor battery’s gone flat. It hasn’t worked since we bought the RV used; I can hear it “hit” somewhere near the cab when I sit in the driver’s seat and toggle the dash switch, but I’m not clear that it’s connecting the two batteries. I thought having one of those boost packs would make repairing this unnecessary; but the battery went bad recently (at home, yay!), and I found that Mercedes, and the battery manufacturer, make it almost impossible to get alligator clamps on the battery terminals. So fixing the boost relay is now on the “must do” list. The parts manual, often helpful here, doesn’t call anything a boost relay, as best I can tell. There’s a part, #008188-01-000, that looks like it might be the part, from the drawing; but the manual doesn’t show the location. So, to test it, I have to find it first; any ideas where it is? I think I know how to test it for function: trace the cable from the house battery to the relay, then pull the battery-size cable from the other terminal and activate the relay; I should find voltage on the "out" terminal when it's engaged. If not, it's relay replacement time. If the relay's OK, I then trace the cable from the relay to the motor battery and run the same test, with the cable disconnected from the motor battery. If that's not showing voltage, the cable's bad. Yes?
BillHoughton 10/22/22 02:51pm Class C Motorhomes
backup monitor

Our 2007 RV came with a backup monitor from Voyager. I wasn't much impressed: the picture was worse than a 1950s TV. At Voyager's suggestion, I replaced the camera, which improved the picture marginally; but I'm now wondering two things: 1. If I replace the monitor (which presumably dates from 2007 or so, and offers a black and white picture), am I likely to get an improved view? 2. Or could the problem be in the cable? And is there a way to test the signal quality coming to the monitor without spending lots of money? I'd prefer not to go to a wireless system: I hate having to replace batteries if I don't have to.
BillHoughton 07/16/22 07:38am Class C Motorhomes
Tank cleaning wand - how much water does it leave?

I bought one of those tank cleaning wands - Valterra brand in this case - for spraying cr*p off the side of the waste water tanks and, in particular, off the sensors, which are reporting creative water levels. The package recommends using it when the tank's just been emptied, but definitely when it's empty. I wondering: how much water do they typically discharge for a tank cleaning? I realize the answer is, "depends on how long you use it," but I'm wondering if there's a typical/average sort of amount. I'd rather not have to go dump the tank again (at $20 each time) just for cleaning the tank.
BillHoughton 07/07/22 05:01pm Class C Motorhomes
Replacing under cabinet lights with LED lights

Our 2007 Itasca Navion came with halogen under-cabinet lights: not very bright, at least one failed every year of late, and they weren't cheap. In the intervening years, of course, LED lights became bright and reliable, so I started looking into replacements. Adam Van Cleve, at Lichtsinn, suggested some lights (part #329927-01-01A, incidentally) from a 2022 Itasca, $6.00 each (!) - it's SO great to find a good parts person. They're very different from the halogen lights, so this post is about replacing them, offered in hopes it will have useful information for someone else. The halogen lights were recessed into a 2-5/16" hole in the bottom of the cabinet, with a flange with screw holes to fasten to the cabinet. The LED lights were flat on the back, with wires in the center of the back and three mounting holes at the edges of the base that were, but naturally and of course, not the same as the halogen lights. The circle described by the mounting holes was 2-9/16" in diameter, so the screws would be just 1/8" from the edge of the hole for the halogen fixtures. I tried just guessing a location, but, with nothing to register the new fixture against the hole for the old one, that didn't work well. So I cut a hole in a 5”x8” card for the wires to go through, then put them through a doghole in my woodworking bench, so I could mark the screw mounting holes. I drew lines from hole to hole, making an equilateral triangle (not really necessary, but it felt good). Using simple geometry principles, I determined the center of the triangle (necessary, see future steps), then struck a circle from that (unnecessary, except to determine the diameter I cited below). https://sellpiratepictures.files.wordpress.com/2022/06/fd175f5b-276a-4c8a-a833-261cf44260d4_1_105_c.jpeg?resize=219%2C219 I transferred the marks - mounting screw holes and center mark - to a piece of masonite, and marked off a circle the diameter of the overall puck light, so I’d know it would fit in the existing spaces on the RV. I then drilled a 1/4” hole in the center mark and 3/32” holes (for #6 screws) in the mounting marks, then cut out the piece at the overall diameter. The existing puck light hole, as I mentioned, was 2-5/16”, which is close to the plug my 2-1/2” hole saw would make, so I cut a plug from the masonite. That automatically gave me a 1/4" hole at the center of the circle. If I didn't have the right hole saw or the hole had been a diameter that didn't work with a hole saw, I'd have laid out the circle, drilled the center hole, and then cut out the circle carefully with a saber/jig saw or bandsaw. I cut the head from a 1/4” bolt, trapped the plug between two nuts and washers, put that in my drill press, and sanded it to a moderately tight sliding fit in an existing puck light hole. I glued up the two pieces, using a 1/4” bolt with washers and a nut hole through the hole in the center of each piece to align them and clamp them together. Presto: a drilling jig! https://sellpiratepictures.files.wordpress.com/2022/06/e3e8e3ef-8141-480b-9a08-60661d10aaef_1_105_c.jpeg?resize=219%2C219 In use: pull the old lights, cut off the wires, push the wires back into the hole, push the jig in place and hold it still while drilling the screw mounting holes, pull it out, and install the light (don't forget to hook up the wiring). Since the new lights have nothing to center them, I made light chalk marks on the cabinets, radiating out from the screw hole locations, to guide me in putting the new lights in. I would put in one screw, then gently move the light around to align with the chalk marks until a hole came into view. The third hole automatically aligned, once I'd fastened two screws in place. It worked well, and, boy, are they bright, compared to the old fixtures! There are two over the head area of one of the beds, and only one is more than enough to read by; both are too bright, even for my 73-year-old eyes.
BillHoughton 06/21/22 05:06pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: sliding windows - does the direction of slide matter?

Thanks, Matt. I kind of suspected that was the case. I've figured out how I might add a bushing on the tail end of the cranking spindle, but it'll be a project. If I do it and if my scheme works, I should try to remember to take pictures and post a how-to for anyone else with the problem. But not soon.
BillHoughton 04/21/22 05:00pm Class C Motorhomes
sliding windows - does the direction of slide matter?

We have a 2007 Itasca Navion. The kitchen window (right behind the sink) on these appears to be the same size as the side windows in the cabover. On ours, the kitchen window uses a dreadful crank-out awning window (that is, hinged at the top/cranks out), on which the crank spindle flops around so the gears don't engage and the window won't open, or close firmly. The kitchen's on the left side of the RV. The cabover window on the left is the same design, but the cabover window on the right side is a slider, with the half that slides at the back, so that the joint/meeting "rail" of the fixed and sliding panes faces backward. If I switch the window from the right side of the cabover to the kitchen, that joint will face forward. Am I likely to get wind-blown rain or wind noise from that joint? Replacement windows are over $650 - not gonna happen - and the accountant refuses even to consider aftermarket windows ($300 a couple of years ago, likely more now). I can screw the kitchen window shut, but it would be nice to be able to open it. Ideas/thoughts appreciated.
BillHoughton 04/21/22 04:13pm Class C Motorhomes
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