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Date Posted |
Forum
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RE: 12v outlet question
Since our explanations are confusing, just believe us when we say put the inverter as close to the battery as possible.
Since you are wanting to run a 12v wire from the battery to the TV, instead, run a 120v wire from the inverter, very close to the battery, to the TV and install an outlet powered from that inverter. There is no difference in how the wire is run, and it will be MUCH more efficient. And, you can get away with running MUCH smaller wire.
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Bobbo
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04/02/20 07:26am |
General RVing Issues
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RE: No 12V power to prewired back up camera
Definitely try putting it in reverse to check power. I just installed a backup camera last week and the instructions specifically said to pull power off the reverse lights..
He has a TT, there is no reverse on it. (He found out the marker lights was the magic bullet.)
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Bobbo
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03/27/20 08:21pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: 110 outlets
And no power at the first2 double beakers in the panel.......All worked in the morning before we left one rv park and got to another one and then the problem appeared.
This makes it appear that the problem is with the park's wiring. Do you have a 50 amp rig? Have you tested the power pedestal to be sure you are getting current on both legs at the pedestal. I would look for a problem before your breaker box since the first two double breakers have no power.
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Bobbo
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03/27/20 06:42am |
Tech Issues
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RE: 110 outlets
If those outlets are connected to your inverter, it may have a breaker or GFCI on it.
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Bobbo
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03/26/20 07:43pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: No 12V power to prewired back up camera
On my trailer the marker lights have to be on. On the 7 way plug, jumper the 12v+ pin and the tail lights pin together. That should power the camera for testing purposes.
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Bobbo
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03/26/20 07:36pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: 120 volt cigarette lighter size outlet
Here you go.
https://www.zackelectronics.com/marinco-5279bl-15-amp-125-volt-flanged-outlet-receptacle-straight-blade-industrial-grade-grounding-black.html?
Dang it can't make a clicky.
Made it a clicky.
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Bobbo
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03/21/20 08:16pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Inverter Installed - Open Ground?
"Local regulations my require a true neutral. In this case one of the AC output wires must be connected to the chassis, and the chassis must be connected to a reliable ground. Please note that a true neutral is needed to ensure correct operation of an earth leakage circuit breaker."
Not a problem. I like helping people solve problems. I like, even more, telling people they don't HAVE a problem.
In the quote from the manual, the phrase "one of the AC output wires must be connected to the chassis" is what I am calling "bonding". That phrase in the manual implies that it is perfectly fine to go ahead and bond the inverter if it makes you feel better. There will be no actual benefit from doing so, but your tester will show what you want it to. If you do this, just be sure you bond the NEUTRAL wire to the chassis, otherwise, your tester will show the outlet as reverse polarity.
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Bobbo
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03/19/20 07:37am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Inverter Installed - Open Ground?
It is showing OPEN GROUND because there is electrical potential between the inverter's outlet GROUND pin and its "NEUTRAL" pin. The only way to get this to not show OPEN GROUND is to connect the inverter's NEUTRAL pin to its GROUND pin. The same thing happens with a lot of the inverter generators. We build a "bonding plug" and plug it into an outlet on the generator that fixes that.
This is NOT of concern. This is not power from the utility company. The inverter, like the inverter generators, has a floating NEUTRAL and does not need to have its GROUND pin connected. Read some of the threads on this topic concerning the inverter generators. There are a lot of them. There is disagreement on whether to bond the generators with good arguments on both sides. (The only good argument on the side of bonding the generator is because some EMS units won't let power in if you don't.)
My advice is to contact the manufacturer, merely for your peace of mind, then stop testing the outlet. It is fine.
WARNING: I do not know if bonding is safe with your inverter. I do not know if bonding should be done with your inverter. I am providing this information only so you know what is causing that error message.
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Bobbo
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03/19/20 07:09am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Fresh water tank flows out drain hose
I'm new to rv's and I don't know why my fresh water tank just runs the water out the drain under my Coachmen Catalina. In the past, water overflowed from this hose when the tank was overfilled. The does not seem to be any leak under the camper, just from the drain hose. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
The drain under the Coachman is a low point drain or fresh water tank drain. Its sole purpose is to drain the tank. It has been left open. Find its valve and close it. The vent hose is beside the opening to fill the tank. The vent hose opening is higher than the water tank to prevent siphoning.
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Bobbo
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03/18/20 08:08pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Thoughts on the 'need' factor of a main line surge protector
What are your thoughts on a surge protector I have a 50amp hookup & the parts department highly recommended one. Not sure if because the just wanted to sell me something or if there are alot of issues with sensitive electronics or what?
It's about... Is your trailer worth protecting.
One of my buddies didn't think he needed one...
Lightening struck the campground he was staying in and...
Lightening ran in on his camper, and fried just about everything.
Cost him right at $2000 to fix his camper back like it was.
NOW HE USES A SURGE PROTECTOR.It would have cost him only his deductible if he would have had insurance on it, which is a more useful investment in my opinion.
A deductible which is more expensive than the EMS unit.
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Bobbo
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03/12/20 09:23pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Thoughts on the 'need' factor of a main line surge protector
Seems a lot of people assume that their rigs would have been badly damaged if not for the fact that their EMS shut down. When actually, how many people camped at that exact site without any harm, and no nuisance disconnects?
Like I said, those who have them were already convinced it was deadly out there and they just had to have that insurance policy. So these RV forum threads are heavily slanted so that it looks like the majority of the RV world has EMS. While I'm betting that is not the case at all, in fact just the opposite.
Some things get cumulative damage. You won't see the damage for a while after multiple exposures to low voltage. However, if you feel that you won't benefit, feel free to not buy one. Those who want to protect their investment are free to use one. I won't plug in without mine. (Actually, I can't since mine is hard wired behind the breaker box.) But I won't be insulted if you choose not to.
This breaks down into two camps. One camp points out what MAY happen and how. The other camp points out that it is a fairly rare phenomenon. Both camps are correct. Each user must decide for himself which camp he wants to join.
Care to explain why billions of homes and businesses in the US, Canada, Mexico, the world don't have their electrical equipment burned down to the ground on a daily basis?
Very few homes or businesses have any real surge protection or EMS and yet it is a very rare event.
Once again, an overblown RV ONLY subject with a piece of expensive equipment DESIGNED for RV USE ONLY at a price only a die hard RV enthusiast is willing to shell out for and claim because they have such equipment they have never had any troubles..
Yes, accidents do happen with electric items but not as much as it is over hyped, sort of like the latest virus issue..
Gladly. Very few homes or businesses are traveling all over the country plugging in to electrical systems that they have no knowledge or control over. They also don't have lots and lots of RV's turning on their air conditioners all at the same time pulling voltage down. Most homes or businesses have a single solid electrical supply. If it wasn't solid, they would have had the electric company come out, or a private electrician, and MAKE it solid. Any other questions?
Care to explain as to why the plant I worked at experienced not only a "brownout" on one phase for 30 minutes, then total power outage on all phases for several hrs with quite a few on/off cycles before the other phases failed, but yet ZERO loss of ANY equipment including HVAC, lighting, computer systems including several hundred servers, network switches, phone systems, industrial motors, industrial robots and anything else that was either plugged in or hard wired..
I have had servers that HAVE weathered these types of power outages and lived to serv again without a complaint and have done this for 14 yrs.. Yep, I said 14 yrs.. I just retired that server recently when it finally died of old age from not a power surge but a system board with lots of expired caps.
Your operating on "FUD" (Fear, Uncertainty, Doubt)..
I don't doubt that SOME campgrounds may have old infrastructure that is not up to everyone with their 50A beauty queens but in reality the ONLY way that you can honestly say that "device X" really works is if EVERYONE in the campground has a complete and massive failure of their electrical equipment at the same time AND YOURS and YOURS alone with this "device X" installed was the ONLY survivor.
Basically nothing more than the "placebo" effect until you can come up with rock hard evidence to prove otherwise.
If paying a price for "device X" makes you sleep better, then continue on, but in reality, a waste of money for 99.9% of the time.
Carry on..
No. I did that already. See my post re: plugging into campgrounds where you have no knowledge of or control over the system.
If you don't think you need one, don't buy one.
However, other people have different opinions. It is irresponsible to try to convince OTHER people to NOT buy one when you are not going to pay for any damage they may incur. Tell them your view, but let them decide. It is not your job to police how they spend their money.
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Bobbo
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03/12/20 09:21pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Thoughts on the 'need' factor of a main line surge protector
Double post
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Bobbo
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03/11/20 07:44pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Thoughts on the 'need' factor of a main line surge protector
Seems a lot of people assume that their rigs would have been badly damaged if not for the fact that their EMS shut down. When actually, how many people camped at that exact site without any harm, and no nuisance disconnects?
Like I said, those who have them were already convinced it was deadly out there and they just had to have that insurance policy. So these RV forum threads are heavily slanted so that it looks like the majority of the RV world has EMS. While I'm betting that is not the case at all, in fact just the opposite.
Some things get cumulative damage. You won't see the damage for a while after multiple exposures to low voltage. However, if you feel that you won't benefit, feel free to not buy one. Those who want to protect their investment are free to use one. I won't plug in without mine. (Actually, I can't since mine is hard wired behind the breaker box.) But I won't be insulted if you choose not to.
This breaks down into two camps. One camp points out what MAY happen and how. The other camp points out that it is a fairly rare phenomenon. Both camps are correct. Each user must decide for himself which camp he wants to join.
Care to explain why billions of homes and businesses in the US, Canada, Mexico, the world don't have their electrical equipment burned down to the ground on a daily basis?
Very few homes or businesses have any real surge protection or EMS and yet it is a very rare event.
Once again, an overblown RV ONLY subject with a piece of expensive equipment DESIGNED for RV USE ONLY at a price only a die hard RV enthusiast is willing to shell out for and claim because they have such equipment they have never had any troubles..
Yes, accidents do happen with electric items but not as much as it is over hyped, sort of like the latest virus issue..
Gladly. Very few homes or businesses are traveling all over the country plugging in to electrical systems that they have no knowledge or control over. They also don't have lots and lots of RV's turning on their air conditioners all at the same time pulling voltage down. Most homes or businesses have a single solid electrical supply. If it wasn't solid, they would have had the electric company come out, or a private electrician, and MAKE it solid. Any other questions?
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Bobbo
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03/11/20 07:44pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Plumbing issues and installing of ToTo
Residential toilets have a trap to hold water to keep odor out of the house. It takes a lot of water to flush solids down past the trap into the drain. A residential toilet will absolutely destroy your water management in an RV.
The tank on the back of the toilet holds a lot of water for the flush. Driving down the road, going up and down hills, going around curves at high speed, that water will slosh out all over your bathroom. If you drain the tank before traveling, that will absolutely destroy your water management in an RV.
Residential toilets are not appropriate in an RV.
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Bobbo
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03/08/20 08:20am |
Beginning RVing
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RE: Thoughts on the 'need' factor of a main line surge protector
Seems a lot of people assume that their rigs would have been badly damaged if not for the fact that their EMS shut down. When actually, how many people camped at that exact site without any harm, and no nuisance disconnects?
Like I said, those who have them were already convinced it was deadly out there and they just had to have that insurance policy. So these RV forum threads are heavily slanted so that it looks like the majority of the RV world has EMS. While I'm betting that is not the case at all, in fact just the opposite.
Some things get cumulative damage. You won't see the damage for a while after multiple exposures to low voltage. However, if you feel that you won't benefit, feel free to not buy one. Those who want to protect their investment are free to use one. I won't plug in without mine. (Actually, I can't since mine is hard wired behind the breaker box.) But I won't be insulted if you choose not to.
This breaks down into two camps. One camp points out what MAY happen and how. The other camp points out that it is a fairly rare phenomenon. Both camps are correct. Each user must decide for himself which camp he wants to join.
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Bobbo
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03/07/20 08:14pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Thoughts on the 'need' factor of a main line surge protector
In 14 years I've never had a known "surge" error with the RV. It might help but in my opinion you're likely waisting your dollars.
I'm glad you put the qualifier "known" in your statement. In 13 years (all but the first 6 months with the EMS-HW30C) I have had no "known" surges either. However, it has disconnected me from power several times for low voltage, and once for high voltage. Surges are not the only problem. I still call this cheap insurance.
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Bobbo
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03/06/20 07:39am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Not your dad's Airstream
What did the Airstream cost new in 1975?
I think the more appropriate question is what does a new one cost today. The Airstream website lists a brand new 30' Flying cloud with an MSRP between $101,400 and $102,400. I think the price in this ad is probably ball park for an equivalent new one.
(Full disclosure: My TT is an Airstream.)
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Bobbo
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03/06/20 07:33am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: converter runs constant
There are basically 3 types of converters and a few sub types
Some like the old Magnetek were "Dumb" and would indeed over charge batteries boiling a wet cell dry in as little as 2 weeks.
THen we have the "Single Stage" normally 13.6 Never shuts off. never reaches full charge either Example Parallex 7300 not T. Now if these are set wrong they can also over charge.
Then we have the multi stage (2 3 or 4) Assorted types of these.
Parallex 7300T (T for Two--stage that is not the song) this one does a timed BOOST mode. some may do it on a voltage sensor... THey can (in theory) hit full>
FInally we have 3 stage BOOST, Absorption, Float
Boost is a higher output voltage to push lots of amps once the battery voltage rises amps drop to ABSORPTION (the last 10 percent or so) still 14.5 or so volts (Exact may vary) but amps are in the single digits.
Finally it goes to 13.6 (Float) and sticks
A bad part can keep that last step from happening.
(Or the other two depending on the part)
So what's it doing.
oh the 4th step. Equalization, a timed precision over charge. How it'd done depends on the make and model Some you need to push one or more buttons. some (Progressive Dynamics Charge Wizard) Do it all on their own.
Float on the better units is about 13.2v rather than 13.6v. The old Parallax/Magnatek did 13.6v.
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Bobbo
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03/05/20 09:05pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: converter runs constant
If it is a Parallax/Magnatek, that is how it is designed to work. If it is anything else, we need to know what you have.
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Bobbo
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03/05/20 08:29am |
Tech Issues
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RE: A Wise Laptop Buy For A High School Student?
True story.
My daughter was going off to college so I bought her a laptop. When she got to college, she had her boyfriend do the initial bootup/format of the computer. He thought it would be great fun to make its language Ukrainian.
I had to reformat the hard drive and re-install EVERYTHING. Once that choice has been made, it can not be changed.
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Bobbo
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03/05/20 08:26am |
Technology Corner
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