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 > Your search for posts made by 'Bordercollie' found 39 matches.

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RE: Toyota motor homes

If you are used to a 26-27 foot Class C, it would be a real shock switching to a standard 24 footer Class C. Sleeping accomodations, cabinet and storage space, and elbow room. If small suits your needs/comfort, take a look at Road Trek and similar, usable as a camper and utility vehicle.
Bordercollie 11/23/20 12:17pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: generator maintenance?

If it's starting easily and able to run the roof AC and microwave oven at the same time, it's performing well. Just start it once per month, let it warm up and then power on the AC and microwave and let it run for an hour. Shut off AC and microwave and let it cool down for a while before shutting generator off. Change oil per Onan recommendations. It's important to keep the electrolyte levels covering the plates of the house batteries and check that they are being fully charged to 13.6 volts by the converter charger when connected to "shore power" or by truck alternator. If kept charged, not run down too far, batteries can last 4 years plus and start the RV generator reliably.
Bordercollie 11/19/20 04:22pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Reliability of older Class C’s?

With the additional information about bringing pets, taking time to make the trip and camping along the way, plus having plans for future RV'ing, I can see that buying an RV makes more sense. There are those who love small Class C motorhomes but I think that 27 foot Class C's offer more comfortable sleeping accomodations and more storage and cabinets. RV's with slides have some advantages but can have mechanical or leakage problems. Pets can sleep on couches and chairs or on the floor quite happily. Look at different sizes and floorplans of rv's and learn to compare their features and market prices. There is a lot of information on this forum on what to look for and what to avoid.
Bordercollie 11/17/20 08:47pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Reliability of older Class C’s?

I wonder why a woman, with no previous RV owner/operator/maintainer experience, would want to buy an older used RV to take a trip (alone) from VA to WA. It seems to me that driving a car and staying in motels would be safer, easier, and much less expensive taking all actual and potential costs into account. You could take a tent, an air mattress, propane stove and ice chest for occasional camping, where it is safe to tent-camp, in attractive patrolled camp settings if desired.
Bordercollie 11/17/20 07:00pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Reliability of older Class C’s?

Our experience with our 2004 Class C was that the roof AC unit, fridge, converter/charger, and fresh water pump and awning fabric all needed replacement around the 10 year old point. Tires older than 5 years old should be replaced for safety. House batteries usually need replacement every 5 years. The RV generator needs to be run frequently or it may need expensive service. RV brakes need periodic servicing for safety. The Ford engine and transmission are generally trouble free for many, many miles with periodic maintenance. Most RV's only are driven some 5000 miles per year, some even less. Taking the above possibilities into account, you might come out ahead renting a motorhome if you don't foresee continuing the "hobby". Otherwise, buying a newer used motorhome. around 3-4 years old, might be a better option. In any case, ask questions and get a prospective "buy" inspected by a pro truck mechanic and a trustworthy RV service shop and get an itemized list of repairs/upgrades needed with parts and labor estimates. Make sure that everything works properly. Sign up for emergency road service.
Bordercollie 11/14/20 06:49pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Anyone using Lithium batteries? Comments?

About running down lithium batteries, check owners manual to make sure it won't damage batteries/shorten useful life.
Bordercollie 11/06/20 10:15am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Rear gear ratio

Our 72 Dodge Van camper conversion also came with a low ratio rear end. Wife would beat kid's cars from stop signs.
Bordercollie 11/06/20 10:08am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Tail light issues

If bulb fits loosely in plated plastic socket, try wrapping sides of bulb with aluminum foil, gluing foil to sides of bulb, to make better contact. Adding some solder to bulb contacts on bottom and filing smooth may help contacts there. Your plight reminded me of problems I had with an old orphan Higgins Delta Class C.I had to patch broken obsolete plastic tail light lens with a red plastic repair kit. Surprised that Winnebago used poor design/quality tail light parts and cannot supply replacements for a 2007 rig.
Bordercollie 11/06/20 10:01am Class C Motorhomes
RE: I Need a checklist

I have used Microsoft Excell to maintain lists of groceries, clothing, personal items, prescriptions, tools, adhesives, camera equipment, and other stuff needed or nice to have for every trip and special items for individual trips. This can be important for items that you share between your RV and your home/garage."I thought that you brought the ......!"
Bordercollie 10/31/20 02:11pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Battery Charger?

Battery Minder chargers have a desulfation feature that can revive batteries as well as prolong useful life while keeping batteries charged without overcharging.( So it is claimed) Range of chargers for sale on Amazon.
Bordercollie 10/31/20 01:56pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Question about Inverter/Charging batteries

Inverters are not magic sources of 120vac power, they draw power from batteries just to operate themselves and will run house batteries down quickly when high wattage appliances such as heaters and microwave ovens are plugged into them. They are useful for charging laptops and other low wattage devices.
Bordercollie 10/26/20 06:01pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Anyone using Lithium batteries? Comments?

I fly RC model planes powered by Lithium Polymer batteries. They require special chargers that "balance charge" individual cells. These small battery packs are "limited life items" that need to be kept charged to a minimum of 3.7 volts per cell or they become damaged. During use, individual cell internal resistance gradually rises, causing a reduction in capacity and performance and swelling of cell packets ("puffing") requiring replacement. It is also necessary that model type battery packs need to be discharged down to a "storage" charge of around 3.8 volts per cell when not in use, or their useful life is shortened. I'm wondering how RV lipoly batteries are kept in good condition by "BMS" devices and need for monitoring and replacement.
Bordercollie 10/23/20 01:52pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Swapping out the Water Pump

If you increase the pump size/pumping pressure, make sure your 12 volt system can handle the increased amp draw. Can't remember brand name or generic name of current regulator device that may be needed.
Bordercollie 10/21/20 06:28pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: New to me 1979 Dodge Fireball

Look for a related year model Dodge Van maintenance and repair manual, maybe "Chilton's". Owner's manuals are hard to find and were not usually detailed enough/generic. My 72 Dodge B300 engine required a lot fiddling with carbs, automatic choke and ignition system. Make sure you have a good coil.
Bordercollie 10/15/20 05:08pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Brougham Dodge 1979 engine

I would be skeptical about the bad fuel pump. Rig may not be able to run, you can't road test it. An old $13K "bargain" rig cost us some 12K more in repairs to get it usable long ago before we knew what we were doing. Replacing roof AC units, water heaters, fridges, RV generators, converter chargers, fresh water pumps, and house batteries plus 6 correct type quality tires and brakes, awning and suspension can raise the cost of a "cheap" old tired shabby rig to where it exceeds cost of a much newer and overall better, safer, fully usable rig. You may not be able to buy discontinued 8.00 X 16.5 tires and need to replace wheels and use new radial tires. Water damage is very costly to have fixed.
Bordercollie 10/15/20 04:32pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Should I buy a Class C or not for this specific situation?

Our 2004 Class C, bought new, required replacement of roof AC unit, fridge, converter/charger, fresh water pump and RV generator fuel system work at around 10 years old. Tires usually need to be replaced every 5-6 years when they become unsafe. House batteries last about 4 years properly maintained. Figure in cost of storage if you can't park on your property. There is also cost of insurance, annual DMV costs, periodic smog testing, and financing charges if you can't pay cash, and cost of fuel, propane, RV camp fees, and incidentals. Buying, owning and maintaining and using motorhome is expensive. Many of us only drive our motorhomes some 5000 miles per year camping and touring, etc., the rig sits unused most of the time. Will you and your wife continue to enjoy using the rig. Kids get older and lose interest in family fun. All factors to be considered when deciding to get into RV'ing along with basic type (class) year, model, size, floor plan, and features. Motorhome rental costs may seem ridiculous but may be a lot cheaper than owning.
Bordercollie 10/12/20 04:58am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Thinking about buying a class c

Your post mentions that you don't want to spend much and you don't want a "big one" It sounds as if you may be only "luke warm" about buying, maintaining and using an RV. In my opinion, a 26-27 foot bumper to bumper Class C is probably the best choice for most couples/families. This size is probably the most common and most available in used Class C's. That size usually has an RV queen size bed in a rear bedroom, a dinette that can make into a kid's or guest bed as well as an overhead bed over the cab area. There is a galley with cook top, oven, microwave, sink and fridge and some pantry storage and a fair amount of cabinetry. A "north-south queen bed with access on both sides is most convenient when one wants to get out of bed or make the bed. The bathrooms have a shower, a sink, a medicine cabinet, storage, and toilet. There is a fairly ample storage/cargo area in the rear. It's good to have a spare tire mounted securely in the rear. Some forest camp sites do not accomodate rigs longer than 27 feet. There is usually a water heater, an RV generator and roof air conditioning unit and some TV provision.
Bordercollie 10/08/20 09:52pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Thinking about buying a class c

We had to replace the fridge, roof AC unit, awning fabric, converter charger and have major fuel system work on the RV generator in our 2004 Class C at around the 10 year point. If you buy a 10 year old rig, expect some major repairs or replacements and factor that in with cost of insurance, registration, smog testing, tire and house battery replacements every 4-5 years. Owning any motorhome is a luxury. I've always thought that it might be more cost-effective to buy a 3 year old rig than a 10 year old one and either might be more cost effective than financing a new rig.
Bordercollie 10/07/20 10:09pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Is CG info available from MFG's

I build RC model planes and getting the model to balance properly at the designed CG point (slightly nose-down) is essential to flyability. Class C's with a lot of rear overhang, when loaded up in the rear, may have excess weight on the rear tires and not enough on the front tires for stable steering. I would think that a short Class C, with modest rear overhang might have better weight distribution and stability in steering.
Bordercollie 10/07/20 09:29pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: 24 ft ClassC MH downsides

We had a 23 foot class C and before that a Dodge van conversion. I grew to hate having cardboard boxes in the aisle etc. and having to convert couches into beds and and back again. There was little space for storage and clutter became depressing on long trips or extended camping. Going from a 32 foot to a 24 foot RV will be a big change. Probably some small Class C motorhomes do much better on storage than what you describe. For example, our 24 foot Class C has: - The entire area under both dinette seats available for storage. - Large partitioned-off separate areas at the foot and head of the overhead cab bed available for storage that run the full width of the bed. - Overhead cabinets above the lounge chair, above the dinette area, and above the kitchen double sink area. - Two closets for storage of clothing. - Drawers and cabinets under the kitchen areas, under and over the bathroom sink, under the refrigerator, and under one of the closets. - Overhead cabinets above and around the corner of the rear corner bed area. - Seven outside storage bays, with two of them extending under the floor laterally across the width of the coach for storage of long items. - Two storage areas under each cab seat. We don't have to transport anything on the roof, on either bumper, or strapped to the roof-access ladder. The only thing "under foot" when we travel is the enclosed crate, seat-belted in a dinette seat, for the dog so that she can travel somewhat restrained and safe. ;) Wow, there have been some real storage improvements in short rigs.
Bordercollie 09/18/20 08:42pm Class C Motorhomes
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