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 > Your search for posts made by 'Bordercollie' found 58 matches.

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RE: learning about rving

Forgot to mention personal safety. There are certain camp spots that are known for local addicts and others stealing camping equipment and possibly robbing or hurting vulnerable looking RV'ers, especially elderly people alone. You will need to camp near others, instead of in an isolated spot off by yourself. If someone tries to visit with you, uninvited, or asks for money, etc., follow your gut, say that you are going to visit your friends in a nearby campsite, etc. Best to camp in areas that have police periodically driving through or available by calling 911 on your cell phone. An air horn is good to scare off bad guys, attract attention or maybe scare an animal.
Bordercollie 07/18/21 07:55pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: buying an rv

I wouldn't pass up an aging but desirable RV merely because it has unusually low mileage. Our 2004 Tioga 26Q has faded graphics from Socal sun. It has new tires and house batteries, newish roof AC and fridge, newish converter/charger, recently serviced RV generator, newish awning fabric, has very low mileage due to our intervening health problems. It runs fine and everything works. No, we're not planning to sell it. We often get people stopping and asking if we want to sell.
Bordercollie 07/17/21 09:30pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: learning about rving

Many forest RV campsites have only a few or no sites with electrical, fresh water or sewage hookups. Being able to camp for up to three days and use only self-contained battery power, propane, and water supply becomes important. That's where your knowledge about using RV's generator, house battery(s), charger/converter and related switches, etc. becomes essential.
Bordercollie 07/15/21 09:34am Class C Motorhomes
RE: learning about rving

CPAP: I use two small 12 amp/hour gell cel 12 volt batteries, connected in parallel (12 volts, 24 amp hours) in a sturdy carrying bag that I leave "on charge" using a "battery minder" smart trickle charger. I connect my ResMed power supply/converter to the battery and to the ResMed CPAP. I don't use the humidifier, which gives much longer battery life. There are many other "travel power" battery systems that will power your CPAP when 120vac is not available. Normally you will have 120vac when your RV is connected to "shore" (camp) power.
Bordercollie 07/15/21 08:49am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Old Air Compressors-Safety Hazards-Heads Up

I checked tire valve for leakage using the spit method, no leakage noted. Will keep an eye on that tire and the rest when we get back on the road.
Bordercollie 07/15/21 08:23am Class C Motorhomes
RE: learning about rving

Owning, maintaining and operating an RV requires some physical agility and effort/strength. You will need to "hunker down" and connect a drain hose to empty black gray water tanks and need to fill your fresh water tank. You will need to deploy and store your awning, fill your gas tank, and check your engine oil. If you intend to sleep in an overhead bed, it requires ladder climbing and some effort getting into and out of bed safely. There is a "house battery" and an RV generator that need maintenance. At 82, things that were once easy have become difficult for me but still doable. There are a number of technical and maintenance things that others can do for you, for a price. Buying a new or a used RV is tricky and you can make costly mistakes unless you equip yourself with knowledge or get help deciding what kind of RV you want, features, age if used, brand name, model name/size/floor plan, etc., Consider total cost of ownership and use: Initial price, financing charges, depreciation, insurance and emergency road service, DMV registration, maintenance services, fuel cost, RV camp space rental, incidentals, etc. Not meant to discourage you but to make you aware if you are not already aware. Consider a used Class B like a "Road Trek". Easier to drive, more expensive than Class C, usable as a get-around vehicle and camper. Good Luck!
Bordercollie 07/14/21 07:34pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Old Air Compressors-Safety Hazards-Heads Up

My little 2-gallon Campbell Hausfeld 120vac compressor was able to pump 75psi into RV tire. Tips for small compressors: It runs as long as needed to get to 100psi in the tank then it shuts off. You have to jamb the chuck quickly onto the tire valve, so as not to lose any air, listen carefully as air goes slowly into the tire, then check psi with accurate gage, without losing air. May need to repeat until you "sneak" in enough air to reach 75-80 psi.
Bordercollie 07/14/21 07:04pm Class C Motorhomes
Old Air Compressors-Safety Hazards-Heads Up

I was planning to use a 20+ year old garage-type air compressor to add 75psi air to a soft motorhome tire. My son had bought it used, for cheap, ten years ago and who knows how long previous users had it and if they maintained it. I was looking at You Tube videos to see how to operate the old monster and ran across a video showing the destruction in a residential garage that was caused when a tank blew up. It wiped out his garage door and entry door plus other damage. The long term user and DIY mechanic swore he would never again run another compressor inside his garage and would never stand next to one again while running. I decided to use my 2-gallon Campbell Hausfeld compressor that takes forever to get up to 100psi and able to pump to 75psi. At least I bought it new and have used very little. There was another video that showed a guy cutting a section out of an old compressor tank. It showed that rust in the bottom of the horizontal tank had penetrated 25% through the thick tank metal.
Bordercollie 07/14/21 02:22pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Mystery Switch

Thanks, that's probably a heated mirror switch will check it.
Bordercollie 07/13/21 12:35pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Mystery Switch

wiltoad, that heated mirror switch may be the answer. The mirror control has it's own switch. I'll try it and see if I feel warmth. We don't get much frost here in SoCal. Thanks!
Bordercollie 07/12/21 05:58pm Class C Motorhomes
Mystery Switch

2004 Fleetwood Tioga 26Q, Ford E-450. There is an on/off switch located just above the power mirror control on the windshield pillar. It's not labelled, not mentioned in the Ford owner's manual. Toggling the switch does not seem to do anything. I've owned the rig since it was new, never noticed the mystery switch til now. BTW the owners manual is somewhat generic, it also covers passenger car features and a variety of entertainment systems. This must be a common mystery switch in 2004 E-450 cabs. Can anybody solve the mystery?
Bordercollie 07/12/21 05:49pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: 2004 Tioga 23E water pump

Our 2004 26Q Tioga water pump is located inside the rear dinette seat cabinet. Just remove cushion and take out four phillips screws and lift out plywood cover. If the same the water pump setup, pump, filter , tubing plus converter/charger and wiring may be there. Good to remove front dinette plywood cover and see what's in there too. BTW, hot and cold water shutoff valves may be accessible, with difficulty, behind a panel on the outside of bathroom wall. If you DIY you will need to get familiar with this and house battery setup.
Bordercollie 07/12/21 01:54pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Manuals/Build Info: 1994 Travelaire TC240 on E350 Chassis?

There are a few online sources that may have the original owners manual for your orphan rig, but, such manuals do not usually go into details of maintenance, troubleshooting and repair, are often generic for more than one model motorhome, and no wiring diagram. There are some good generic how-to books for maintaining any motorhome and include description of the 12 volt DC and 120 volt AC systems that provide power to furnace, water pump, toilet, fridge, and keep your house battery(s) charged plus fresh water and sewage and holding tank systems. As said, there are a lot of "How-to" You Tube videos that will probably serve your needs.
Bordercollie 07/12/21 01:36pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: class c house battery problems

Better find a mobile RV repair guy and have him look over your old rig. There should be a "house" battery that powers your interior lights, fresh water pump, furnace blower, appliance controls, and maybe a TV antenna signal amplifier. The house battery is usually charged by the truck "chassis" alternator while you are driving. If your rig is connected to 120vac camp power, or to a built in RV generator, there should be a thing called a converter/charger that powers you interior lights, etc., and keeps your house battery charged. Your "chassis" battery is the one that starts your engine and powers your headlights, radio, heater fan, signals, stop lights and running lights. It is charged by your chassis alternator (which also charges your house battery while driving). Try to learn about the 12 volt DC and 120 volt AC systems and how to maintain the batteries and check charging systems, very important. If you need to add a house battery, a new converter/charger and some related electrical/electronic parts, and pay for installation, it may cost you over $500. If you have an RV generator and it needs repair, that can cost you another $500 to $1000. Your 1985 RV is probably worth between $2000 and $4000. Adding/repairing the electrical systema will not increase the market value of your motorhome by much, depending on the overall mechanical and cosmetic condition of the rig. You may decide to try to sell your rig and save money to buy a newer rig that's ready to use. Don't ask!!
Bordercollie 07/07/21 06:18pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: 24 ft or less B+ with over head bed.

I think that the overhead of a standard Class C is a good thing for storage, etc., but would prefer no front or side windows to develop leaks and need re-sealing over time. If you have kids/grandkids or guests sleeping in overhead, opening side windows are probably worth having along with curtains and privacy drapes. Another good thing is shade from overhead, less sun glare. Class C's with overheads are more plentiful used. Side issue, I prefer a 27 foot Class C with rear RV queen bed to a 24 footer with less storage cabinetry and lesser sleeping comfort overhead and jacknife sofa bed.
Bordercollie 06/28/21 10:41am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Considering move from class A to C

We have a 2004 Fleetwood Tioga 26Q, Ford E-450. I think that the ride over typical rough worn highways is harsh and tiring for sustained hours of driving. Rear springs are probably one "size fits all" and having softer springs installed might help improve ride. Class C's with stock suspension tend to get pushed around by passing semi's and wind turbulence. As suggested, rent a couple of C's and give them extensive enough road tests to help you decide A versus C and MB's vs Ford or Chevy. Some Class C people who spend $3000 on suspension mods, claim great improvement in ride comfort.
Bordercollie 06/27/21 03:25pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: How many miles a day can we go?

Our 27 foot class C rides like a truck with stiff rear springs. Many worn interstates have miles of cupped concrete sections or other roughness that can wear you down and rattle your nerves. Driving on hot summer days or in windy and/or rainy weather, plus road repairs can also wear you down. You can do 500 miles the first day, somewhat less each day until you decide that some relaxation and enjoyment is essential. RV'ing is supposed to be fun, not exhausting bordering on dangerous. Don't let following traffic push you into taking curves too fast, etc.
Bordercollie 05/20/21 02:30pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Battery & electrical questions

It would be good if RV manufacturers would include a placard that clearly states this kind of information including location of solenoid switches, fuses, reset buttons, etc. The proper operation of generator, converter/charger, transfer switch, chassis alternator, house and chassis batteries, etc., is critical to running air conditioning, furnace, fridge, microwave, water heater, interior lights, fans and entertainment devices. I wonder how renters figure this stuff out once the are out on the road.
Bordercollie 05/06/21 08:42pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Where to begin

It Depends on your RV body, auto electric, mechanical, plumbing and RV appliance troubleshooting and repair/replacement skills, work space available, and time from start to completion/camping touring ready status, and most of all total cost. Bear in mind that an old Class C's market value will not be more than $5000, regardless of how much money you spend on it. Buyers can't get loans on old Class C's. Old class C's usually need to have radial tire wheels and tires installed, can't get 800x16.5 bias belted tires. Tires need to be changed every 5 or 6 years. You might be better off selling the rig for whatever you can get and consider buying a camping/touring ready motorhome if you and your family really want one and will use it frequently. (Don't ask how I learned this.)
Bordercollie 05/06/21 12:18pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Is the year of the coach based on the year of the chassis

I had to furnish AAA insurance a copy of the sales contract to prove our rig was a 2004 because the VIN shows it as a 2003 rig. We didn't want our rig identified as a 2003 in the event of a total wreck scenario.
Bordercollie 04/25/21 01:40pm Class C Motorhomes
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