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 > Your search for posts made by 'Bruce Brown' found 268 matches.

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RE: Frods V10 engine

Good engine. A couple of the first year motors had a few plugs blow out, easy fix. They've been updated a few times over the years, new ones always seem a little better. If you were buying a new Class A gasser today it would be your only choice.
Bruce Brown 06/16/19 07:06am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Atwood electric jacks control panel will not turn on

If anyone has an Atwood electric jack they want to get rid of, let me know. I have the 7500 lb ones on my Bounder. I unintentionally pulled the micro connector off the back of the control panel when a rear jack alarmed a few years ago, and couldn't get it repaired or find a replacement anywhere. Had the jack's upper head rebuilt for $200, but without a control panel, there was no way to use them. Orange blocks became my friends. A couple years later I'm sitting in a friend's '08 Phaeton, and realize he has the exact control panel I need. His on/off button was broke, so he called Tiffin right there and ordered a new one...$107 + shipping. His came in and it worked, so I had him order me one. That was Dec 16. Plugged it in and all 4 jacks worked and leveled as advertised. Worked OK for 10 months until the left front jack over extended and alarmed. Jacks would not retract so I had to unplug it (12v 2 wire plug at jack), spin the emergency retract nut, plug it back in and then they all retracted. Tried to use the jacks one more time after that with same results - over extended, alarmed and wouldn't retract. Haven't used them since. That was Oct 17...orange blocks are still my friends. I was told that the jack is bad, maybe a flat spot on the motor, and I needed to replace it. Same friend with '08 Phaeton bought 2 new rear 15000 lb Atwood electric jacks from Tiffin late last year and installed them himself. I was going to have him check with Tiffin to see if they had any 7500 lb jacks in stock, but haven't got around to it. PM Sent
Bruce Brown 06/15/19 10:33am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Atwood electric jacks control panel will not turn on

My problem is that the control pad will not start. Brake on, transmission in neutral, motor running. Did you mean: "transmission in Park"? Also, I can have my engine running, trans in Park, Brake on and my control panel will not turn on. I have to have the slides in as well. There is no transmission "Park" on a DP. It's as he said, in neutral and the parking brake set.
Bruce Brown 06/14/19 12:09pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Atwood electric jacks control panel will not turn on

I'm more than a little skeptical, but Leppert claims to have a replacement for the Atwood 80618 controller. I would need to replace the controller and the touch pad. The person at Tiffin is Brent Bullard, who I hope to discuss this with before diving in. The price for the the controller and touch pad is $495.95, which would be much better than replacing the entire system. It would be cheaper, for sure, but would it be better? At what point do you cut your losses and move on. Use that $500 towards the new hydraulic jacks instead. I'm asking as much as saying too, as we are currently in the same boat. So far ours are still working, but I'm about out of parts. At some point we won't have a choice except replace the system. The question is when. I our case I have 2 daughters getting married within a year, so I'm trying to bleed ours along a bit longer - for now.
Bruce Brown 06/14/19 10:41am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Anyone interested in 83 Pace Arrow Tear down and Rebuild?

Good luck with that window idea. A few reasons to consider; House windows are designed to be installed before the siding goes on. MH windows are not. Trying to make the window one with the wall will work awesome, until you hit the first big bump in the road and the chassis flexes. Those windows need room to "float". Properly installed, most MH windows *don't* leak for many, many years, if ever. Most that leak have plugged drains. Thats a maintenance issue, not an installation issue. If there is a seal issue with a normally installed window, removal and reinstallation is a quick, simple, easy job. With a window thats part of the wall...well, good luck! I know this is your baby but I'd reconsider that plan if it were me. But as they say, "not my circus, not my monkeys". Thanks for the info. The rear window is already a done deal. That will be fiberglassed into place and become part of the rear wall, and there is no room for "floating". The frame is stationary, and will remain that way. If It leaks, I'll cut it out, and redo the window. I really don't expect any problems with that and I'll explain why. Then again, I could be completely wrong and it will leak like a sieve. Time will tell. After watching countless videos of rv's being manufactured, I would agree that they are designed to be just stuck into the sidewall with caulk/adhesive to stop the leakage. I don't think that is used because it is a good design. I think that is designed that way, because it is easy, quick, and cheap to install. What that means is, the manufacturer can just cut a hole in the wall, slap some caulk around it, install a few screws inside to help hold the window into place, and they are done with it. However, after pulling this apart, those windows "float" like you said. The caulk is what is really supporting the window, and over time the vibration of going down the road, loosens the caulk and it leaks. I do think that the ChemLink would do an admirable job for a long period of time, and as it cures, stays flexible, but still seals. Personally, I don't think wall flexing enters into it. I think it is vibration, rather than flex. If flex did it, the wall would crack due to the flexing. I am talking about a fiberglass wall, not one make of wood with thin aluminum stapled to the wood wall studs. I will revisit my plans on the side windows before final installation of the siding, and who knows, maybe I'll change my mind. Thanks. Do what you want to do, but ask yourself... Is the windshield of you car bonded in or made as one piece with the frame? Are the windows on a $900K Newmar King Aire made as part of the wall, or are they sealed in and installed afterwards? Are the windows in a $2.5 Mil Newell made as part of the wall, or are they installed afterwards? If chassis flex isn't an issue why do we see posts about windshields popping out because of poor leveling practices? (I've personally done this one when I was a rookie) When I rebuilt our TT the only place it wasn't leaking was the windows. The 12 year old butyl tape was still pliable and sealing as designed. You could still use butyl tape as many still do, or you could use a urethane window sealant. The sealant used to hold in these windows is designed to seal, help absorb vibrations and remain flexible, allowing the window to somewhat float. Heck even in your house a window needs to float. If you don't allow some room for movement you'll bind or even break the window. You like spray foam (me too!) - why do you think they make one just for doors and windows? Because it doesn't grow as much or set as hard as the normal stuff. Like I said, I really don't care what you do - it's your baby. I'd just hate to see you put in this much effort and have it fail.
Bruce Brown 06/14/19 07:12am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Caulking Roof to gutter

Winnebago used Eternabond to fix some Vistas and Sunstars, so why not? Friends had a 2001 Winnie we did exactly what you're taking about doing. That one had a leak we never did find. We Eternabonded it and problem solved. When I rebuilt our TT I used Eternabond on it to seal it up. I did, however, run a bead of Dicor down the edge of the Eternabond too. Grab yourself one of these if you want to make the job easier. Having used one of these, I'll never be without one again. https://i.imgur.com/tB4IId8.jpg
Bruce Brown 06/14/19 06:52am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Question for Class A owners.

Inside there is a removable "dog house" on gassers. It usually offers decent access, sometimes great access - better than many other vehicles. On a diesel pusher there is typically the rear closet floor doubles as an access hatch as well. A side radiator model allows awesome access from the rear as well. A rear radiator not-so-much.
Bruce Brown 06/14/19 04:18am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Anyone interested in 83 Pace Arrow Tear down and Rebuild?

I have a question, how will you install whatever the outside skin will be with the windows already installed? BTW, I've been watching this thread from the beginning, very impressive. Thanks for following. Hopefully you are enjoying it. I am looking at the windows, like windows in a house. The windows go in before the siding goes on, and they don't leak. My plan is to secure the window frames to the siding. If I use fiberglass siding, I will add fiberglass to the frames and the siding, so they all become one. No caulking nor adhesive will be needed to seal them. For those that think this is crazy, you don't cut a hole in the side of a house after the siding is on, and then just caulk around the outside of the window, do you? No. We already know the general way rv windows are installed doesn't work long term. Yes, I know, I could use something like Eternabond. I also would not expect ChemLink to leak for a lot of years. That being said, I want to do this differently, and we'll see what happens long term. If it doesn't work, I can always cut the window frame out, replace it, and caulk it in, just like the rest of the rv's on the market, but I don't think that will be necessary. We'll see in about 10 to 20 years. :) Good luck with that window idea. A few reasons to consider; House windows are designed to be installed before the siding goes on. MH windows are not. Trying to make the window one with the wall will work awesome, until you hit the first big bump in the road and the chassis flexes. Those windows need room to "float". Properly installed, most MH windows *don't* leak for many, many years, if ever. Most that leak have plugged drains. Thats a maintenance issue, not an installation issue. If there is a seal issue with a normally installed window, removal and reinstallation is a quick, simple, easy job. With a window thats part of the wall...well, good luck! I know this is your baby but I'd reconsider that plan if it were me. But as they say, "not my circus, not my monkeys".
Bruce Brown 06/13/19 04:42am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Electric issues

^^^ I was thinking I'd just run a new ground and leave it! :B Grounds can be a bear to hunt down, no sense in making it harder than it needs to be.
Bruce Brown 06/07/19 04:31am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Electric issues

Might be a bad bulb too. I'd probably check there first as it should be the easiest - and I like easy.
Bruce Brown 06/06/19 09:18am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Power Gear Leveling Jacks Leaking

Any decent hydraulic shop can fix it. If it turns out not,to be a standard size seal (doubtful), any size seal can be made. At work we use Expresseal.com . If you were closer I'd say stop over, I'll rebuild it for you. I just finished up one of my own cylinders.
Bruce Brown 06/04/19 07:16pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Best diesel pusher chassis ?

10+ years ago I looked at a F or maybe S bare chassis with IFS. I counted 16 additional pivots/moving parts over a solid axle... no thanks. I believe someone has put the steering gear box in the middle of the IFS reducing the count by 5. so only 11additional...still no thanks. The good news is most will never put enough miles to where the additional parts will need replacing. On the bold part above, that kind of makes it a complete non-issue then, doesn't it? :w
Bruce Brown 06/03/19 01:57pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Anyone interested in 83 Pace Arrow Tear down and Rebuild?

Coming up on the 2 year anniversary of this thread. Just curious if you have an idea of when things will get wrapped up inside and what your plans are for the outside. I couldn't go at this pace - it's just not in me. In this timeframe it would either need to be finished or I would have completely lost interest. When I did our TT I started around July 4th weekend, it hit the road in October headed to Colorado. Mine was a smaller undertaking, I figure about 400 hours, but my pace was faster. Mondays I'd take off. Tuesday - Friday were ~ 6:00-11:00ish, depending on when I got home from work. Saturday & Sunday were 6:00AM-Midnight Obviously there was time taken for other stuff (mowing the lawn, going out to dinner, a few weekends for camping, etc) but if I was home that was my schedule. I did need ours to be done for the October trip, so maybe having a deadline date helped.
Bruce Brown 06/03/19 10:43am Class A Motorhomes
RE: GoodSams Early Renewal $50 Gift Certificates

^^^ Exactly. It's an offer - if you choose not to take advantage of the offer then so be it. If you don't like the terms and conditions then don't do it. It's not like anyone is MAKING you do it. Geez...:S
Bruce Brown 05/27/19 07:18pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Best diesel pusher chassis ?

Ford Chey Ram They're all good. We've owned both Freightliner and Spartan chassis and both Cummins and Cat diesels, I wouldn't give a seconds thought as to which one was "better". This is a question with no right or wrong answer, only opinions - and we all know what they say about opinions.
Bruce Brown 05/23/19 01:37pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: F11 Top Coat

Haven't used it but the web site says... "The avg. life is 3-6 months. The life of the coating depends on how much abuse it take from physical wear from car washes, hand washes, harsh chemicals, detergents, abusive weather or environmental conditions etc. Inside the home it can last over a year". So I'd say on a MH figure about 3-6 months between applications. :B
Bruce Brown 05/23/19 01:35pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Diamond Shield damage by Love Bugs

Same as the others with no damage. Our current MH came home in 2007, still looks new. When it was delivered it came with a can of Plexus to use on the Diamond Shield. I use it when I remember, never had an issue.
Bruce Brown 05/23/19 04:51am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Hybrid electric/propane tank-less water heater

^^^ Agreed. A few years ago I looked at doing an on demand electric at our house. Just the cost of the additional wire I needed to run made it a non-starter. On demand propane is a different deal. That's cheap and easy. Last year I bought a 3.2 GPM on demand propane for our deer camp, EBay, $64.00 delivered. Works great!
Bruce Brown 05/23/19 04:45am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Southwind Class A Motorhome Pursuit

I saw part of that on the news this morning. Crazy, just crazy.
Bruce Brown 05/22/19 07:12am Class A Motorhomes
RE: How much does 30+ feet actually effect ability to find space

I've never had an issue, ever. One state park we stay in says it has a 28' max length, our 39'er fits great. Yes I did stop and physically look at the site before we made our reservations and discussed it with the boss at the park. Seems it's a typo on-line, that has yet to be corrected. On the opposite side of that, about 10-12 years ago we had July 4th holiday reservations at a private park in Old Forge, NY. We made the reservations in January as being the holiday things filled up quickly and the park always sold out. When we arrived the girl who checked us in offhandedly said "I hope your camper isn't very big". Obviously I was a little miffed. When I asked her how big the site was she said 30'. When I told her we had made our reservations in January and clearly said we had a 40' MH, she said "go check out the site and if it's not big enough we'll see what we can do". I'm not sure what she was thinking as again, they were sold out. With the help of great neighbors moving all of their vehicles I was able to maneuver the MH into the site, with not an inch to spare. We haven't been back since. So...if I found a MH I liked I wouldn't let a 34' length sway my purchase even a little. For the one park you may ever miss you'll enjoy the extra room every time you use it.
Bruce Brown 05/21/19 06:58am Class A Motorhomes
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