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 > Your search for posts made by 'Bruce Brown' found 152 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Slidout room not working...

On electrical stuff, many times clicking with nothing else happening is a bad ground. It could be many other things but thats where I'd start looking.
Bruce Brown 05/10/21 04:13am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Driver side “old” windshield into a different coach

With a little help you could probably replace it yourself. Check Youtube to see if you can find a video. Years ago I used to swap out the fixed rear windows in pick-up trucks for sliders - it literally was a 2-3 minute job. I think you'll find the windshield in your MH is mounted using the same method.
Bruce Brown 05/07/21 04:31am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Would you switch from Class A to Travel Trailer

Exactly
Bruce Brown 05/06/21 02:20pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Would you switch from Class A to Travel Trailer

And then there is common sense. There isn't an intelligent person alive that would let their loved ones ride in a camper being pulled down the road. Lets face it, in any type of accident a pull type camp will not win - period. They're just not built that well. That's not a knock on them, it's just a realistic statement - they're simply not built for it. It's bad enough in a MH, but at least you have a decent frame around you. With a pull camper, of any type, what could possibly go wrong. :E https://pickuptrucktalk.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/trailer-wreck-photo-1.jpg Agreed. But then I don't recall this thread discussing riding in a trailer...:? It sure seemed like it. No way are you going to be driving the Volvo and getting up to stretch your legs, make a sandwich, use the bathroom, etc - unless you're riding in the camper. :w
Bruce Brown 05/04/21 06:38pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Follow up- Turbo goes out at 37,000 miles

Your trip home was all down hill with a 35 MPH tail wind??? :B
Bruce Brown 05/04/21 10:13am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Exhaust Manifold

Next use nickel anti seize. YES! Ceramic and graphite also work. Nickel and ceramic are the only 2 I'll use. Using the copper based stuff is just like welding it in. Want to ask me how I know. :B
Bruce Brown 05/04/21 06:30am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Would you switch from Class A to Travel Trailer

Traveling long distance in a Class A is much nicer than traveling long distance in a TV/TT. Your DW can get up, stretch her legs, go to the restroom, grab a snack/drink...even lay down and catch a few Z's. None of that can be done in a TV while driving down the road. I'm going to disagree with part of that, it depends on what TV you have. A friend has a converted Volvo tractor that he pulls a big 5'er with. I've been on a few trips with him in, it's dream to drive, far nicer IMHO than my Class A in that it is far more 'surefooted' on the highway. There is no hint of the 'tail wagging the dog' from crosswinds or the bow wave of other vehicles. While the Volvo may very well be "a dream" to drive, it still doesn't allow everything else in the section of my comment that you quoted; DW can't get up, stretch her legs, go to the restroom, grab a snack/drink...even lay down and catch a few Z's. It's also a very rare towing combination. I know it’s commonly done, but still, neither the Volvo NOR the law allow any of those things either.While that is true in Canada, It's not necessarily the case here in the US. In fact, more than half of the states in the US currently require only the driver and front seat passenger, along with kids/minors, to be seat-belted in an RV. https://camperreport.com/wearing-seatbelts-in-motorhomes-the-laws-for-all-50-states/ https://www.cruiseamerica.com/rv-adventures/rv-lifestyle/rv-seat-belt-laws-in-every-us-state-canada And then there is common sense. There isn't an intelligent person alive that would let their loved ones ride in a camper being pulled down the road. Lets face it, in any type of accident a pull type camp will not win - period. They're just not built that well. That's not a knock on them, it's just a realistic statement - they're simply not built for it. It's bad enough in a MH, but at least you have a decent frame around you. With a pull camper, of any type, what could possibly go wrong. :E https://pickuptrucktalk.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/trailer-wreck-photo-1.jpg
Bruce Brown 05/04/21 06:24am Class A Motorhomes
RE: 2006 Winnebago aventurer

On that one be sure to reseal the roof - the thin sheet of fiberglass is set in a grove then sealed in with a bead of sealant. Make sure that's in good shape. Winnie Roof Sealing Tip The other part is make sure the windshield is well sealed. Being garage kept you should be good regardless but Winnies are known to rust around the windshield frame.
Bruce Brown 05/02/21 10:55am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Disc brakes temperatures

Whenever I do brakes on cars (which is often) the biggest thing I look for is equal temps on both sides. As long as they're about the same I call it good to go. If something isn't right the gun will let you know it.
Bruce Brown 05/02/21 10:47am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Turbo goes out at 37,000 miles

Just a side note on turbo heat; this is from my snowmobile. I took this picture sitting in my driveway after coming home from a ride this winter. Needless to say I always let it idle for a few minutes before shutting it down. Yes this is a much smaller turbo and at a speed of 200,000 RPM it's a little faster than the Cummins turbo but the point is the same - turbos make a LOT of heat and they need time to cool down. And yes, this is normal for this engine. https://i.imgur.com/jGucjSQ.jpg height=720 width=540
Bruce Brown 04/29/21 07:11am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Turbo goes out at 37,000 miles

One item that kills a turbo really fast is driving down the interstate at full speed and getting off to get fuel, coming in to the gas station and shutting down the engine. This simple little action is detrimental to the life of the turbo, while the engine is running the oil is circulating to the turbo and lubricating the bearings and cooling, shutting the engine down shuts the flow of oil, this oil not only helps lubricate the bearings it also helps with cooling the unit. When the flow of oil is interrupted the residual oil begins to cook and slowly starts to block the passages and also starts to destroy the bearings. Depending on the turbo, it will spin at about 17,000 RPM at idle and anywhere up to 150,000 RPM's running down the road. Try to avoid this by letting the engine idle 2 to 3 minutes or more before shutting down, this helps the turbo slow down to near idle speeds and helps cool the unit a bit, this prolongs the life of the turbo. I do not know if they still manufacture them or not, it is an electric motor 12vdc and a pump coupled with a timer that runs for about 3 minutes at engine shut down and pumps oil to the turbo after the engine is shut down, totally separate from the engine, runs from the engine sump to the oil line for the turbo, the oil then drains to the engine pan this helps cool down the hot end of the turbo while it spools down and prolongs it's life. navegator This - 100%, every time.
Bruce Brown 04/27/21 06:40pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Would you switch from Class A to Travel Trailer

Until a few years ago we had both or MH and a TT. One time I was taking the TT to a campground an hour+ away for my Mom to use and I started thinking maybe just having it would be fine. Sell the MH and save the $$$. I drove back home and grabbed the MH. I wasn't 5 miles down the road and was asking myself what the heck was I thinking. The TT is gone, the MH is still in the garage.
Bruce Brown 04/21/21 07:35pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Engine miss in hard rain

^^^ And they're cheap now too - at least the basic ones are.
Bruce Brown 04/14/21 01:11pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: sewer odor

We've found sometimes it's as simple as the water in the sink traps has jostled out. Add a little more water to your sink and the problem goes away.
Bruce Brown 04/09/21 10:10am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Garage floor coating recommendations

Although not a garage, I am contracting a slab pour now for a house addition. My contractor said if I were planning to later add a coating or tile the floor, that it is important that they do not use a "Cure and Seal" product during the slab install. These products provide a barrier to help with the hydration but hinder adhesion of other products later. I plan to use the old method of lightly spraying water on the slab and covering with plastic until it has fully cured. I hope theyre planning on a vapor barrier under the concrete.
Bruce Brown 04/06/21 04:41pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: New again, remind me

You mention delam, and I agree. The 2 you mentioned are both laminated so they will, in time, delam. The older Monaco/Holiday Ramblers (I'm not sure about the new ones), the Travel Supreme higher end Entegras, and Newmars use hung wall construction. No lamination, no delamination. Of course your true bus types also are not laminated.
Bruce Brown 04/05/21 01:45pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Black tank

If it doesn't you'll be stinky!
Bruce Brown 04/05/21 10:38am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Garage floor coating recommendations

Agreed on the vapor barrier. If you don't have one don't bother coating it, it won't stay down anyway. Side note, part of my real job was selling concrete coatings.
Bruce Brown 04/04/21 02:18pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Intermittent Dash Radio ??

As cheap as replacements are today, I'd just replace it and be done with it.
Bruce Brown 04/03/21 06:06am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Aux Start to Boost Cranking Amps

That's confusing. You said if the engine is running and if it is, the alternator should be suppling the power for the levelers. The alternator should be able to supply all the power needed. To answer your question...yes you can use the boost switch with the engine running. This. When our jacks show low voltage all I need to do is start the MH and it's good to go.
Bruce Brown 03/28/21 08:51am Class A Motorhomes
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