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 > Your search for posts made by 'BruceMc' found 25 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: FR Forester vs Sunseeker - what's the difference?

You are most welcome, bobndot!
BruceMc 01/15/23 07:41pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: FR Forester vs Sunseeker - what's the difference?

I swapped our dinette for theater seats. It's not a simple job, but very doable IF there's no services under the seats. Check for the water heater and/or furnace, or any other object that cannot be moved before undertaking the task. Here's pics of my dinette/theater seat mods: Original Dinette: https://a4.pbase.com/g9/88/791988/3/163724878.A3to2EPo.jpg Current Theater seats: https://a4.pbase.com/g12/88/791988/3/169336557.chac1Y6D.jpg Full albums of the Dinette mods, then finally the removal and installation of the theater seats: 2016 Sunseeker Seating Projects This album also includes the passenger swivel seat mod in a sub-album if you are interested. If not, just skip the first image in the set. --Bruce.
BruceMc 01/12/23 10:05am Class C Motorhomes
RE: FR Forester vs Sunseeker - what's the difference?

I believe there used to be a difference, similar to GMC vs Chevrolet. But like those brands depending on the years, the products seem to get more similar, then migrate to differentiators, such as more bright-work (chrome) and differing body skin/grilles, etc. The main difference these days between Sunseeker and Forester is body paint/decals, and the name. There may be differences in price, based mostly on dealer perception of the two nameplates, but you can purchase either nameplate and you'll get nearly the same product. We purchased our Sunseeker because it was offered for a terrific sale price, and because it's what we had been looking at anyway. Had it been a Forester, we'd be Forester owners today!
BruceMc 01/11/23 11:30am Class C Motorhomes
RE: New Chevy chassis

This might be helpful: https://www.gmfleet.com/vans/chevrolet-express-cutaway-3500-4500 I'd expect they'd have a 2023 year models listed, but I think this will answer your engine questions.
BruceMc 11/16/22 09:31am Class C Motorhomes
RE: dingy induced sway

A "De-Rattler"... interesting term! I've always known them as a Hitch Clamp. Amaz... shows Hitch Clamp, Hitch Tightener, Anti-rattle stabilizer, etc. I use them when towing anything, and have given several as gifts. https://a4.pbase.com/g12/88/791988/2/171025803.y4vvB6HU.jpg I put a lot of effort into reducing slop at all movement points as well. There's slop where the tow bar mounts to the crossbar, crossbar to removable arms, arms to baseplate, etc. Removing all excess slop helps reduce wear and toad wandering, and perhaps the OP's (and my) original issue of steering under/over sensitivity when towing. Here's the remainder of my toad/tow setup, for those who haven't already seen it... Towed/Toad project photo gallery
BruceMc 11/09/22 09:42am Dinghy Towing
RE: dingy induced sway

I have the same issue on my setup. I believe it's because a motorhome steering change coaxes a steering response from the toad which is a delayed response. Initial MH steering feels like understeer, then the toad's change produces a sensation of oversteer.. It took a bit to get used to, but I expect it now. Dolly towing is a completely different dynamic than 4-down. The dolly has a single hinge point between the wheel platform and the dolly frame, so you are not forcing the toads front wheels to respond. I think this response varies depending on the toad and the tow rig. Speaking of new tires, I put new Bridgestone Duravis R500HD on our GM based Sunseeker, and they are squirmy... which contributes to the steering sensitivity when towing. You have Michelins on your Ford, so that may be like comparing apples to oranges. But based on my experience, the tire characteristics will affect towing sensitivity. Installing a track bar/Panhard rod may help, as that would remove the side-to-side flexibility in the rear axle of the tow vehicle... It would help when not towing as well.
BruceMc 11/07/22 11:00am Dinghy Towing
RE: What is your secret trick for cleaning your front cap?

I use a telescoping brush that the handle extends to 6'; that and purple power (or whatever it is called) that contains TSP works perfectly for me. I wet the surfaces, spray the purple, the brush until most bugs are gone. Rinse, rinse, rinse. If needed, a spot spray gets the last of the bugs. Some folks recommend only products formulated for RV use, and fear the TSP based cleaner will remove the finish. I've never had an issue with these cleaners but I do rinse well. That said, use what you feel is right for you. I've never waxed any of my rigs, but I keep them clean and out of the sun when not in use. Our Sunseeker still looks almost as shiny as it did when we purchased it new 7 years ago.
BruceMc 10/31/22 10:30am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Puzzling Plumbing Problem

My thoughts are aligned with Doug's thread, regarding the hot water heater. That would certainly be a good test - travel with the water heater off, then check the pressure. (Tho one would expect the same issue to happen while parked) Also, as Doug stated, try a different pressure gauge. It's a good puzzle! (Hi naturist - from one to another!)
BruceMc 06/06/22 10:51am Tech Issues
RE: Dually tire service/installation

I've dealt directly with "professional" tire shops that supposedly handled a lot of duals for commercial trucks, but came away with shoddy workmanship anyway. In a couple of instances, I purchased the tires from them. Many times, I've had to take it back, explain how duals are supposed to be mounted on the hub, and that's after getting them to run a second balance. Tire "professionals", indeed. It's easy to throw labels about. There's an index hole (or pin) that aligns with the index hole in the rims. Then, the valves are supposed to be 180 degrees apart. In my last case, they buried one of the inner valves - it wasn't even visible. Idiots. To Discount Tire's credit, they bumped other work, pulled the motorhome in and re-did all 6 tires, paying particular attention to the balance, then properly mounted them on the hubs. I checked their work before departing the second time. The problem was a floor "manager" that was not qualified on the balancer was trying to help the workers with the work load. He learned his lesson - he should have stayed in the office, and let the qualified help do the job.
BruceMc 05/27/22 09:06am General RVing Issues
RE: Replacement for Jensen Entertainment Center

BTW, the sound is much better than the Jensen. I had replaced the interior $15 Jensen speakers with a nice set of $200 Yamahas, as stated in my original post. The outside speakers were always muted, while the Jensen over-drove the interior speakers to the point of making them buzz at the peaks. The iRV drives both fairly equally, and the sound from the Yamahas is very pleasant. Pairing with the phone is simple - select BT, and look for the iRV on the bluetooth list on the phone. Tap, and you are connected. The Jensen took a 12 step program, then would forget the pair in a day or three. I gave up. The physical build quality of both the Jensen JWM6A and the 32" TV is very good, but the electronics and software rates far below physical build quality. The iRV is not near as well built, as the silkscreening on some buttons are a bit crooked; the issues I had with the fascia as mentioned, and the rear power and speaker connectors were sub-par. After I mated them for the bench test, it took quite a bit of work to extract them, and that was with tools. The metal opening around the connectors was too small to allow the latch to fully unlatch. After coaxing them out, I snipped the tips of the catches so they could be extracted without issue in the future. The HDMI and antenna connections were fine. The only Jensen product remaining is the in-dash double din, that failed a little over a year after we purchased the Sunseeker. I rarely used it anyway, the GPS map was very hard to read, as if someone designed the graphics on a 40" monitor, then didn't consider visibility on a 6" screen. It occasionally has a windows error pop up, so I understood the issue; it was based on some embedded windows OS. Probably CE. (Remember windows ME, and NT? We used to combine the three - CE-ME-NT)
BruceMc 05/14/22 10:12am General RVing Issues
RE: Replacement for Jensen Entertainment Center

Given my requirements, I was limited to the units designed for RVs. I researched a lot of the automotive head units, and not a one has an HDMI(ARC) port. Many of them have analog video inputs for backup/side/etc cameras, but that's not acceptable for my application. No one on this board or on ForestRiverForums could provide a brand & model of an automotive unit that met my requirements, though I received similar responses on both boards much like some of these replies. I ultimately purchased an iRV32V2. This unit is currently in production and has up to date specs, and has fit the requirements nicely. The only issue I've had so far is finding the random function when playing music CDs. Other than that limitation, everything is easy to use and easily accessible, with a couple of exceptions. While researching this unit, there were three main objections: 1) Reliability, both infantile and adolescent failures 2) Very poor remote functionality 3) No adjustments for base, treble, balance While I don't yet have a track record for the reliability, everything worked fine out-of-the-box, with the exception of the remote. More on this later, however... If this unit fails over the next year or two (as did my Jensen JWM6A within a few months of life), I'll respond to this posting. Regarding the remote, it was easy to determine the cause of poor performance. The aperture for the IR receiver was obscured with a small hole containing a tiny pink plastic filter. This filter was mounted on the finishing fascia, but if the remote was used any time the fascia was absent, all worked well, and from quite a distance. The issue is not the remote, it's poor fascia design. As far as the lack of tone/balance adjustments, while the manual doesn't really mention how, it alludes to the fact that the volume knob is also used to select and adjust treble, base, L-R and F-R balances. In fact, this is actually on of those multi-function knobs. To adjust other functions, just push it in momentarily. Initially, it appears not to do anything, other than change the display to say Volume:n (where n is the current level). Rotate the knob to reveal the next function - Base, then Treble, then Left-Right, and finally Front-Rear. Easy! Changing the mode via the Mode button never displays the DVD or audio CD selections. Instead, just insert a DVD or CD, and the function and display changes to serve that function. The unit never searches for a missing CD or DVD if there's not one in the drive, unlike the Jensen. While in DVD function, the "Menu" button on the remote is supposed to bring up the DVD menu, but I always get "invalid key" in that function. This is the second of two puzzlers, the other being the lack of a randomizing function for music. Enough about the unit. You want installation pictures! Bench testing: https://a4.pbase.com/g12/88/791988/2/172597210.NyV48q35.jpg New unit perched in opening designed for the Jensen: https://a4.pbase.com/g12/88/791988/2/172596927.vM6srcJa.jpg New filler that was a dinette drawer face in it's previous life: https://a4.pbase.com/g12/88/791988/2/172596932.pZlZosTD.jpg IR receiver fascia hole and removed filter: https://a4.pbase.com/g12/88/791988/2/172596941.IX9q9fdH.jpg Modification: https://a4.pbase.com/g12/88/791988/2/172596943.u5skiWDO.jpg Unit mounted, facia not yet installed. The unit is in stand-by mode, clock displayed, but fairly dim: https://a4.pbase.com/g12/88/791988/2/172596944.1RKpah9P.jpg I had to do some other work on the fascia to get it to mount correct, and snap into place. Once those minor mods were complete, then it all snapped together and looks good. Again, in standby with a dim clock display: https://a4.pbase.com/g12/88/791988/2/172596945.FWAbChDL.jpg When on, this has a lot of blue lamps, which seems to be the current fad for automotive head units. Blue is the worst color in the world for night vision, but I guess they expect the cool kids with a billion blue lumens lives in the heart of the city - where it takes a lot of light to be seen.... https://a4.pbase.com/g12/88/791988/2/172596947.dGVBYv8D.jpg This may be a minor distraction from that 32" TV a few feet away... https://a4.pbase.com/g12/88/791988/2/172596949.gcwVj7sU.jpg More pictures, as always: Entertainment Center (Note, I also posted this reply on ForestRiverForums.com, in case you visit that site and thought you'd already seen this post!
BruceMc 05/14/22 10:04am General RVing Issues
RE: Can someone help design a 5 volt circuit

Keep in mind, the purpose for the circuit is to enable code pull, which may include engine RPM changes, is in Park or Neutral only. The circuit is disabled when in any other gear. A switch is certainly an option, but one that allows the code pull function to feasibly operate in any gear.
BruceMc 04/24/22 11:00am Tech Issues
RE: Can someone help design a 5 volt circuit

BurbMan, here's my understanding: OP wants to close the 5V source to 5V sense lines to be able to pull codes from the computer only when: In park/neutral, key on Else, the connection between those lines is open. Opnspaces, You asked: 1) I wasn't sure of the blocking diode position so I added two diodes. Were you saying to put in position A or position B or does it not matter and either position would work? A: The blocking diode can be placed in either position, as you don't want the start line voltage from back-feeding the Run line. The diode is necessary to prevent spurious current spikes on the run line from the starter coil's collapsing current when you release the key from the start position. As an aside, (in theory) current flows in the direction of the arrow, so it's blocked on the bar side. 2) Would the 5v through the constant duty solenoid cause the starter to constantly crank. I'm not sure if 5v would be enough to energize the starter solenoid but it's a thought. A: The 5V circuit is completed through the switch when the relay is energized; it is a separate circuit and completely isolated from the 12V circuit. You'll never want to backfeed 12 into your computer! Here's why the relay works in this setup: When there's no voltage on the start line (key in Start position), the line acts like a ground when in Park or Neutral. When in any other gear, the neutral safety switch is open, so the circuit is open, so you have a route to ground. If in any gear other than park or neutral, then the switch is open, but now you have no route to ground. The reason that it acts like a ground when the key is NOT in the start position and you are in Park/Neutral: There is no 12V on the line from the start circuit, so it is an open circuit at that point. The coil in the starter solenoid is huge and has very low resistance; it takes a lot of current to pull that coil closed. The coil in the relay is miniscule in comparison, requiring only a few milliamps. Both coils are in series at this point, and if both were equally sized, it would take 24 volts and the commensurate current to pull them closed. If you put two relays in series, one with a tiny coil and the other a huge coil, then one will activate at 12V and the other simply acts as a wire to ground. There will be a bit of current drop across the starter solenoid, but not enough to be an issue. If you have a spare starter solenoid and a small relay, such as that used for aux lighting, jig up the setup on your workbench. Let me know if I'm all wet... There's a chance I'm wrong, but I'm 99% sure this will work.
BruceMc 04/24/22 08:13am Tech Issues
RE: Can someone help design a 5 volt circuit

That lead from the ignition switch to neutral/park switch is energized ONLY when the key is at Start. This won't help for your use-case. You'll need to pick off the Run lead, not the Start lead. Put a small continuous duty relay on the Run lead, and wire it as follows: Coil: Positive: Run Negative: Ground Switch: Common: 5V source NO*: 5V sense *NO - Normally Open (when the relay is not energized) Now the 5V circuit is closed when in Run mode. If you want to open the circuit when the transmission is not in park/neutral, then wire the negative coil wire to the start line between the key and the neutral safety switch, AND add a blocking diode between the coil and Run line. Now, when the key is in Start, 12V+ will be on the coil negative line, as will be on the coil positive side from the Run line. The diode prevents 12V+ from back-feeding the run line. Wire the diode as follows: Run -->|-- Start (in my best ascii graphics). When in Run mode, and in parK/neutral, then the coil will pick up the ground through the neutral safety switch, and the starter solenoid. Good luck!
BruceMc 04/23/22 08:47am Tech Issues
RE: No more photo posting... huh?

Test image post: https://a4.pbase.com/g11/88/791988/3/168742557.4ft3xqGX.jpg Looks like it works for me! You need to host your images elsewhere, as I do: PBase.com/brucemc
BruceMc 04/16/22 09:59am Forum Posting Help and Support
RE: Leveling blocks on dual rear wheels

I cut a number of 10x18" (approx) pieces of old scrap 3/4" plywood for this purpose. I found using 2x boards would split over time, and with a nominal dimension of 1 1/2 inches, I wasn't getting the granularity needed for the desired leveling. The 3/4" plywood has proven to be way more durable than the 2x boards. This size works for both front and back tires; I stack what I feel will work, but stagger the pieces so it forms a ramp. I store these in a rubbermaid box (no rubber in those plastic boxes!) in a storage hold, and learned never to put a lid on the box. I stored several once after departing from a site where we got a lot of rain overnight, and the next time I got into the box, they were moldy. The lid got moved under the box and has been there since then. I've never had moldy block since that event. This has worked for better than a decade of class C ownership, and while the idea of leveling jacks has appeal, I don't care to spend that much (and add additional weight) when the plywood works well for me.
BruceMc 04/15/22 09:38am Tech Issues
RE: Replacement for Jensen Entertainment Center

So far, all I've found is either the above mentioned RV units, or when reviewing the specs for automotive head units, I find many play DVDs if they have a physical slot, but they play it on the built in screen. Many have A/V in/out, but it's all analog. The inputs are primarily for rear/side/front view cameras, and the output is, perhaps, for that big screen in your buzz rocket... Many units are sans CD/DVD player, and I can understand that, for those who are always connected. I've not found a single automotive unit that has HDMI. In the home entertainment space, I've found lots of units, but they are designed to set on/in your furniture and connected to other devices, including a CD/DVD/Blueray player. I've yet to find one with a built-in physical player, but I've yet to really explore this area. It may very well be that I cave and buy an iRV or something similar, much like what LJAZ did. I certainly need to replace the Jensen. Anyone have the iRV 31 or 32v2 unit? Thoughts? I'll update this thread when I decide what to do/what I've done... BTW, I've already replaced the speakers with a nice set of Yamaha units: https://a4.pbase.com/g12/88/791988/2/172150573.TmaJG66p.jpg and I'm nearing completion of the new entertainment center setup: https://a4.pbase.com/g12/88/791988/2/172481802.M6KnnmBS.jpg More pics, if you haven't already seen them.... New cabinet for TV in overhead.
BruceMc 04/13/22 04:46pm General RVing Issues
RE: Replacement for Jensen Entertainment Center

Telling me I have "thousands of different models to choose from" doesn't help; do you have general recommendations for an automotive single or double DIN radio that has HDMI(ARC)support? Replacing the Jensen with an automotive radio would be more than welcome, if it supports video playback and audio return channel (the ARC part of HDMI(ARC)), AND has a respectable remote - not a slab with bubbles.
BruceMc 04/11/22 04:18pm General RVing Issues
Replacement for Jensen Entertainment Center

If you've replaced your CD/DVD/Radio double-din entertainment center setup, what did you replace it with, and would you have gone with something else? I have 3 requirements: HDMI(ARC) DVD player A remote that is more than those thin bubble button thingies... I have a Jensen JWM6A that skips when playing MP3 disks, and the video output, while set to 1080p, look like a blurry 480 signal. This is the last Jensen product that still marginally functions in our Sunseeker, and I'd like to be completely Jensen free. This is what I've found, and I'm not terribly pleased with any of them: 1) Pyle... Need I say more? 2) Jensen... Not much of a step up from Pyle 3) iRV 4) Magnadyne 5) Others? I see mixed reviews on all of them. I know this has been discussed in previous threads, but many are several years old, and the units being discussed are long out of production. I'm seeking information for the 2020's! Thanks in advance! (Note, I've posted this on Forest River Forums as well; if you browse that forum and think you are seeing double...)
BruceMc 04/11/22 10:27am General RVing Issues
RE: CC Magna Build (solar, res fridge, induction cooktop, etc)

Quality wiring! Serious solar!! I may spend some time at Quartzsite one of these days/years; it's always good to see pictures of the area. My older brother and his friend have a spot in the area and have invited us to drop in sometime, but as I'm still a working stiff, it'll be a while. Our last trip to the area of your little slice of heaven was January of 2015, and we were only passing through to spend the day in Los Algodones. Looks good, keep up the posts!
BruceMc 03/30/22 08:21am Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
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