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 > Your search for posts made by 'BruceMc' found 37 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Overhead entertainment center removal

Hi BobNDot! (and Happy Christmas & Merrrrrry New Year, everyone!) I was surprised to see this topic bubble to the top... and see some of my images are missing from the followup posts. Thanks for the compliments! The injury is all healed up; all I have left is a slight dent in my finger and the loss of pride, though I have a story that I wouldn't have otherwise had. The injury was minor, all things considered, but it forced me to re-examine my work practices. Complacency Breeds Contempt... it'll get you every time, sooner or later! I plan to work on the TV cabinet over my break during the first two weeks of January, but it depends on other factors pulling my time. If I get to it... I'll post the story and pics. Take care!
BruceMc 12/20/21 03:11pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Replaced/updated cheap ceiling speakers...

Thanks everyone! We have a yearly VIP (variable incentive pay) that has strict rules similar to your near-30 years, JK. A coworker decided she wanted to move on, and had quit at the end of the year. She thought she'd get the VIP for the year, but the rules stipulated that you had to be employed at the time of payout which was at the end of January... It was a nice VIP that year too, but she didn't see a dime of it. She wasn't very happy about it, but them's the rules! Back to this topic, I plan to start on the TV cabinet for my winter project. I had removed the TV from the center of the overhead not long after purchasing it, as we needed the overhead bunk. It has been my plan since then to build a cabinet on the right side to hold the TV and provide storage for the entertainment center items such as remotes, manuals, etc. I'll post pictures and the story once that's underway.
BruceMc 11/26/21 08:37am General RVing Issues
RE: Replaced/updated cheap ceiling speakers...

Very nice sound! I had issues initially, as they use a spring post for the connections rather than spade connectors. The passenger side one didn't work at all, and the driver side had an intermittant buzz. Thinking I got a bum speaker out of the box, I removed and checked the connections - while it was still connected, it was intermittant. I reset the wires, and it started working. I removed and re-installed the drivers side, and the buzz went away. It was probably touching something that was vibrating against the speaker housing.
BruceMc 11/25/21 10:32am General RVing Issues
Replaced/updated cheap ceiling speakers...

I received an unexpected anniversary award from my "new" company (400,000+ employees worldwide) after the company (3500 employees worldwide) I had worked for over the last 29 years was purchased. The old company had completely quit giving out anniversary awards, so I certainly didn't expect anything from the new outfit. Surprise, I got a 30 year award! The award? 488 points. Yep, points. To spend said points, I was constrained to an award website contracted by the company. They only had items, no gift cards or a way to convert 488 points into cash. After searching the site several times for something I wanted... anything... I finally arrived at two objects that I could use to improve the entertainment system in the Sunseeker: A new set of Yamaha NS-IC400 speakers ($150 value) and a new full HD Samsung 32" TV. The speakers arrived within a week, but the TV is not scheduled to ship until the end of December... maybe. Enough about the back story... I removed and measured the cheap ASAElectronics speakers (available from your favorite online store for $15/Pair!), and determined I had a depth issue. While the opening was 1/4" larger than needed, but still usable: https://a4.pbase.com/g12/88/791988/2/172150568.5dkVBYQe.jpg The depth was a 1/4" shy of the 3 1/8" needed: https://a4.pbase.com/g12/88/791988/2/172150566.9l3y8RQL.jpg So I set about designing and building a set of spacers. I considered various materials, and finally settled on some of the solid surface (Corian) left over from our countertop project. I had 4" strips, but needed these to be about 7" wide, so I laminated two panels with a finger joint & epoxy: https://a4.pbase.com/g12/88/791988/2/172150577.FiW7BBMr.jpg and proceeded to turn these on the lathe. Solid surface is hard, and normally is machined with carbide tipped tools. I have HSS tools for lathe work, so I kept them sharp, and was able to convert the squares to discs, and cut the center opening. I used a roman ogee bit in the router for the edge profile, but the remainder of the work was done on the lathe: https://a4.pbase.com/g12/88/791988/2/172150578.MeWdQfBK.jpg Results: https://a4.pbase.com/g12/88/791988/2/172150571.fR1cwF94.jpg https://a4.pbase.com/g12/88/791988/2/172150573.TmaJG66p.jpg More pics: Speaker Project
BruceMc 11/25/21 09:18am General RVing Issues
RE: Low point drains

Why not look their locations up in your owner’s manual? This is always a great reply, but unfortunately, for many of us the "owners manual" is a super generic collection of information that generally doesn't apply to any specific model in the line. It's included so the manufacturer can say they included an owners manual. That said, there's some manufacturers that document their specific models. I helped a friend once on his MiniWinne, and it was a precise document of the unit. Our low point drains on our 2016 2250 Sunseeker are in two locations, the FW tank drain is indeed below/beside the FW tank (valve on the blue line at the left; tube emerges below the MH): https://a4.pbase.com/g9/88/791988/2/161947695.FDYlSBZy.jpg width=640 But the line drains are below the kitchen sink just aft of the side door: https://a4.pbase.com/g9/88/791988/2/161947697.jvRCkDi5.jpg width=640
BruceMc 11/14/21 07:25am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Veterans Day-Got Any Pics To Share?

USS Stein, FF-1065 - Feb 1976 thorugh August 1979: https://a4.pbase.com/o2/88/791988/1/106407360.eyb2ehzf.USSSteinFF1065.jpg
BruceMc 11/11/21 09:31am General RVing Issues
RE: Class C Campsite Photos. Show your stuff.

A few of our many campsites over the years: Western Wyoming: https://a4.pbase.com/g10/88/791988/2/166004470.fORNindQ.jpg Summer Lake Hot Springs in southern Oregon: https://a4.pbase.com/g10/88/791988/2/165999999.5ehd1Ug4.jpg Givens Hot Springs in SW Idaho: https://a4.pbase.com/g12/88/791988/2/171963919.VAMNINmR.jpg West of Crater Lake: https://a4.pbase.com/g12/88/791988/2/171135351.RTQa4uOc.jpg Far SE Oregon: https://a4.pbase.com/g9/88/791988/2/163725012.b431pOw0.jpg Western Wyoming, 8000': https://a4.pbase.com/g4/88/791988/2/137443667.3LUs8c69.jpg Somewhere in SE Idaho: https://a4.pbase.com/g4/88/791988/2/139130172.SSweRxnK.jpg Not a camp site, but I had to include one shot of the Sportsmaster fiver at Multnomah Falls in Oregon: https://a4.pbase.com/g12/88/791988/2/170900929.L0xbaYGM.jpg Willow Creek/White Horse Hot Springs, SE Oregon: https://a4.pbase.com/o6/88/791988/1/86423449.WNFUvbRL.IMG_5781.jpg Alvord Desert, SE Oregon: https://a4.pbase.com/o6/88/791988/1/85920559.qUTfArlE.058_alvorddesert.jpg Summer Lake Hot Springs: https://a4.pbase.com/o6/88/791988/1/86067241.fJpLkM9L.IMG_4856.jpg Central/Northern Cascades, probably near McCredie Hot Springs in Oregon: https://a4.pbase.com/g1/88/791988/2/131427687.0CVaxwvw.jpg etc...
BruceMc 11/03/21 12:59pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Taking B+/C Offroad Experiences

You need an RV that we cannot solve with today's physics: That it be tiny and light on the outside, but huge and well equipped on the inside! (Tardis, anyone?) For years we've struggled with this - they are always too big on the outside but too small on the inside. While we don't take our 24' 2016 Sunseeker https://a4.pbase.com/g10/88/791988/2/166004207.6DGNIzYD.jpg into the places we used to take our 1993 GMC https://a4.pbase.com/o6/88/791988/1/86423449.WNFUvbRL.IMG_5781.jpg with the poptop Sunlite camper, we still head up into the hills on many good logging roads. It's just those little roads that can be an issue. It all depends on the terrain. What ever you find, do let us know, and post pictures!!!!
BruceMc 11/03/21 12:28pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Changing a tire yourself

Yep - I even changed all 6 at once! https://a4.pbase.com/g9/88/791988/2/153987407.SuVFiWBJ.jpg Michelin recall project
BruceMc 10/23/21 09:37am Class C Motorhomes
RE: What do tow behind your Class C?

2012 GMC Canyon: https://a4.pbase.com/g12/88/791988/2/171025356.WpFCvggr.jpg
BruceMc 10/22/21 06:03pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: What kind of small/medium truck can be towed

^Hey are you brucemac with the Prostar 205V? No.... Prostar 205V? I'm "BruceMc", not "brucemac".
BruceMc 10/02/21 09:37am Dinghy Towing
RE: What kind of small/medium truck can be towed

We tow a 2012 GMC Canyon 4WD: https://a4.pbase.com/g12/88/791988/2/171964147.MO9sjU3y.jpg Dead simple setup when readying to tow. Hook it to the tow bar, then flip a switch to enable supplemental brakes, as I installed the Demco Stay-N-Play braking. To put the transfer case in neutral, turn on the ignition, step on the brakes, put the gear selector in neutral, then hold 2H and 4L together for 10 seconds. After the N indicator lights up, put it in park and pull the key. Done. The 2nd Generation Colorado/Canyons are a bit more involved, but they are towable, as is the new Rangers. As Way2Roll mentioned, consult the towing guides, then download the user manuals for those vehicles you are interested in. If the towing guide says a vehicle is towable, then verify as the manufacture's user manuals are the definitive guide.
BruceMc 10/01/21 07:23pm Dinghy Towing
RE: Water heater sealing question

Butyl should be fine. Your post reminds me of our old fiver - the manufacturer cut a square hole, but then filled it with a square WH with rounded corners. While the facia covered the entire hole, there wasn't sufficient contact at the 4 corners to create a seal. I found this out by removing the wrap-around seats & seat panels at the rear of the fiver while working on other projects, and found the floor was soft under the seats. Upon chasing that, I found the source was this manufacturing defect, which allowed rain/wash water into the unit which flooded the floor. Because the floor vinyl wasn't sealed at the floor/wall intersections, water soaked into the particleboard flooring over preceding 7ish years before I purchased it. I replaced stringers and the subfloor in the rear 1/4 of that unit, and installed new vinyl which curled up the walls by an inch or so to prevent something like that from happening in the future. To fix the issue, I added corner blocks to the opening, then reinstalled the WH with a properly sealed facia/face plate. I used butyl tape, then sealed any small openings in the face plate with silicone. Several years later, leak free, we traded the fiver in on our first class C.
BruceMc 09/15/21 09:22am General RVing Issues
RE: Class C driver/passenger seats

Our 2250 Sunseeker on Chevy chassis has about a 2 1/2 inch step down, so that wouldn't fit your request. That said, I added a swivel to the passenger seat, and while the floor is a bit closer when swiveled, I don't mind. I can stretch my legs out a bit... right into everyone else's way! Passenger Seat Swivel mod. Perhaps the Mercedes Benz chassis based class Cs have a flat floor at that transition; the only way you'll find out for sure is to walk the lots.
BruceMc 08/11/21 08:51am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Where did you get THAT?

Uh, which THAT? B^) Sunseeker Photo Album As I review our projects, I recall the trials and tribulations of each, yet the satisfaction of all things we now take for granted. Perhaps the most work went into the swivel seat mod, but we also put a lot of effort into the new solid surface countertops. They've both paid so much in dividends in the terms of usefulness and longevity. Speaking of which, the new pleated blinds came in, so I gotta get busy & get the factory rollers replaced! I'll post pics and the story, of course.
BruceMc 08/02/21 02:48pm RV Lifestyle
RE: Brake Wire

When we had our 22' fifth wheel, the passenger front tire would always lock up but the others kept rolling... the problem wasn't necessarily the wire size, but how it was wired. The factory routed the wires along the right side of the trailer, then tapped off and ran across to the left side. The right front tire was first in the circuit. I rebuilt the wiring using a variety of sizes. As Larry Cad stated, each brake pulls around 3 amps at full braking. 3 amps is easily carried by 16 gauge, which is the same size as provided on the brake puck. I wired each of the 4 brakes to an equal length 16 gauge pigtail. At the center of each axle, I joined the pigtails to equal lengths of 14 gauge, then ran those back to the right frame rail. Those, then were joined to a 12 gauge lead that ran to the 7 pin plug. All connections were soldered, sealed with liquid tape, then protected with heat shrink. The point of this exercise was to provide equal current and voltage to each brake. From that point forward, I never slid one wheel, but could lock all four up if desired. It was a vastly different towing experience. All that said, the point isn't necessarily just the wire size, but how its wired. You don't need 10 or 8 gauge wire to each brake, that's overkill. But you do need to consider both the total current on each lead and how it's balanced. On the tow vehicle, you'll need an adequate size wire for the job. At 12-14 amps maximum for 4 brake trailers, 12 gauge (20 amp max) is all that is needed. In practice, you'll never pull 12-14 amps on a constant basis. I'd venture a guess that current during usual braking is commonly between 1 and, say 6 amps. Those who have current readouts on their brake controllers know the story.
BruceMc 07/21/21 08:41am Tech Issues
RE: Death Wobble Continues ....

I certainly believe it is the electric power steering that is the major contributor to DW. While we never towed out 2004 Malibu Maxx, it had a similar oddity at low speeds - the steering wheel would do a mild DW in my hands while the engine was at near idle, and making sharp turns as one would do in a parking lot. It was disconcerting, but never enough that would cause a problem. If we had towed that car, we may have encountered DW! Our 2012 Canyon has hydraulic power steering, BTW. I was surprised it still had the old hydraulic when we purchased it.
BruceMc 06/07/21 06:27pm Dinghy Towing
RE: Death Wobble Continues ....

It's my opinion (and purely that!) where part of the cause of DW is sloppy tow bar parts. Our new Roadmaster Falcon had 2" of side-to-side play over all of the connections: 1) Frame mounting brackets to baseplate bars 2) Baseplate bars to quick-disconnect crossbar 3) Crossbar to towbar 4) Towbar stinger to motorhome receiver Additionally, there was a half inch of up/down play between the crossbar and baseplates. All of this factory slop most certainly contributes to DW when towing vehicles that are susceptible to the condition. Before our first tow across Oregon, I put a lot of effort into reducing that slop by adding thin washers where possible, and reducing the slop in the baseplate bars to the frame brackets and the stinger to receiver. We never had an issue with DW as it all felt tight and solid. Stinger shims: https://a4.pbase.com/g12/88/791988/3/171025802.CGcHlmlZ.jpg Stinger clamp: https://a4.pbase.com/g12/88/791988/3/171025803.y4vvB6HU.jpg Crossbar to Towbar shims: https://a4.pbase.com/g12/88/791988/3/171025804.gffxecpe.jpg Crossbar to Towbar shims: https://a4.pbase.com/g12/88/791988/3/171025805.yTIzOdZ1.jpg Crossbar to Towbar vertical post shims: https://a4.pbase.com/g12/88/791988/3/171025807.96vWkhaG.jpg The one effect I noticed was the MH steering was twitchy, as the pickup would push left/right on the tail depending on the corners. It wasn't a big deal, but took a bit more focus than not towing.
BruceMc 06/01/21 09:55am Dinghy Towing
RE: Thought I killed my on board generator!

And, the number 40 represents the 40th formulation before they were satisfied with it. WD-40, Water Displacement, formula #40! It is NOT a general lubricant, tho it can be used as a short term mediocre lube.
BruceMc 05/22/21 08:26pm General RVing Issues
RE: Thought I killed my on board generator!

I made a similar mistake on our 2000 Four Winds several years ago. It had run fine for a couple of years, but I just had to clean it. Yes, OCD… Mistake. It would run but all it would do is surge real bad. The control board and electrics were fine, but I have no idea what I washed out of it to cause the issue. In the end, I twiddled with the governor until I got it to settle down. It ran fine after that. The heck of it is, that generator still starts easier than the one on our 2016 motorhome. Lesson learned, never wash your generator! Like Gritdog, if there was a nice quiet inverter generator out there, they'd quickly replace all these 60 year old technology Onans.
BruceMc 05/22/21 12:32pm General RVing Issues
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