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 > Your search for posts made by 'BruceMc' found 58 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Class c under 25 feet w/ rear bed slide

We have a 2250 Sunseeker that is about 24' on Chevy: https://a4.pbase.com/g9/88/791988/3/161930204.10nbS47x.jpg with the specs as you've expressed. While Forest River's quality can vary from unit to unit and from day to day, ours is pretty solid overall. We've very much enjoyed it for the last 3 1/2 years and will run it until we are no longer capable of RVing. True, the slide pushes out on the drivers side, but we've always found a location in rest areas and other boondock locations where the slide isn't an issue - but it's certainly something to think about. While ours is on the drivers side, a slide on the passenger side would pose similar issue depending on the situation. We really didn't want a slide at all, but the desire to have a unit in this size w/o a corner bed left us little choice. Good luck with your search, and please - let us know what you've found.
BruceMc 05/06/19 10:41am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Turn of Norcold refrigerator when not using?

Ditto - Shut 'er down & prop the doors open after a good cleaning. Now that I joined the choir, I'll add: Do you have a Dometic? Did you get some blue plastic thingies about 2" by 3" with a U shaped slot & a small square hole? Not knowing what they were, did you discard them when you got your unit?? Our Norcold in the Four Winds has latches built into the handles to prop the door open about an inch. The Dometic has the blue plastic thingies - snap the U shaped slot over the latch, then while closing the door, push in on the other end if it hits the jamb - the small square hole will latch on the catch that normally holds the door closed. These little widgets are pretty cool, but won't hold the doors in the hold-open position if you head out for a drive for winter warm-ups.... Ask me how I know. Bang! D'oh!
BruceMc 04/30/19 03:07pm Tech Issues
RE: Powerpole Info Needed

DC Power is my go-to place for Anderson PPs and accessories. Give a shout out to Wes, the owner if you decide to order from him. Wes is located in the Beaverton Oregon area for us Great NorthWet folks. --Bruce.
BruceMc 04/15/19 02:28pm Tech Issues
RE: Armrest pad project on Chevy doors

Glad to give you something to occupy your time, Iamichabod! Have you replaced your countertops with corian yet, as I did?
BruceMc 04/07/19 03:16pm Class C Motorhomes
Armrest pad project on Chevy doors

For some reason, (coughCheepcough), GM decided the armrest designs on Express/Savanna should be designed for working stiffs - they don't need no comfort! The armrests sure get hard on the elbow/arm after a lot of highway miles. (That said, their seats are vastly better than the poor old ford seats we had in the 2000 Four winds, though there are a lot of years difference between the two.) Back to the project! As a quick weekend task, I had some left-over upholstery material from my rocking chair that I decided to use for arm pads. Here's a few pics: Drivers side: https://a4.pbase.com/g12/88/791988/2/169020008.KRNLi77x.jpg Passenger side: https://a4.pbase.com/g12/88/791988/2/169020010.NpaAiLcB.jpg Passenger side with seat swiveled toward the coach: https://a4.pbase.com/g12/88/791988/2/169020009.dBRprb1N.jpg Build details: I used some 3/16" plywood cut to size, then mounted a pair of screws with epoxy. I drilled the hole undersized for these screws so they would have a bit of bite in the wood. The epoxy holds them in place and keeps them from screwing back up into the pad. I used upholstery adhesive to mount two layers of dacron batting - unsquished it was about 1 1/4" thick. The cover was then pulled down around the batting and tacked to the bottom of the plywood: https://a4.pbase.com/g12/88/791988/2/169020011.lJG1sLDp.jpg Be aware of where the bolts protrude into the base: https://a4.pbase.com/g12/88/791988/2/169020012.82Rbvhcq.jpg Mounted to the armrest: https://a4.pbase.com/g12/88/791988/2/169020013.apHbVeKG.jpg While I had the assembly apart, I cleaned up a lot of sharp molding lines on the plastics: https://a4.pbase.com/g12/88/791988/2/169020014.bXWOo4x2.jpg Before assembly, I spread a bit of silicon adhesive to the contact points between the base and the armrest. Once the silicon sets, it should quiet the plastic on plastic squawk, which irritated me to no end. While the finish work on the pads didn't come out a good as I would have liked, they will do the job for our future trips. I had considered covering the entire armrest with the upholstery material, but instead decided it would be easier to make these pads. Thus, if they need serviced or someone in the future decides the mod is not to their liking, it can easily be undone.
BruceMc 04/07/19 02:32pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Magellan GPS lifetime map updates

We used to have a lot of Magellan products but several years ago, it was obvious they were sinking fast. We moved on to DeLorme handhelds and Garmin vehicle GPS units at that time, then recently DeLorme was bought out by Garmin. At this point, it appears Garmin is the only game in town. I've never had an issue updating our older Nuvi GPS unit with current maps, though their memory management is less than desirable. Updates do not update only what is necessary, it's the whole package. After several updates, the internal memory will be exhausted. As these units come with a micro-SD card slot, plan to purchase a larger card - 32Gb or so, and that will greatly extend the update life.
BruceMc 04/05/19 10:40am General RVing Issues
RE: Bathroom Sink Faucet

During my countertop replacement project, I replaced ours with a new stainless fixture:.That is one fine looking job! Thanks 2oldman! I posted the whole project on Forest River Forums, kitchen, dining table and bath counter.
BruceMc 04/02/19 09:17pm General RVing Issues
RE: Docking Station

If faced with this situation, I'd use my spare diaphragm pump to move the water into the tank, and would set up the appropriate electrical connections. BTW, Does Germany use the same garden hose fittings as we do in the US? https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/95/Garden_hose_connectors.jpg/220px-Garden_hose_connectors.jpg The US standard for the threaded portions is 3/4-11.5NH (3/4" is the internal diameter, 11.5 is the thread pitch - 11.5 threads per inch). Help that hopes! (Not germane to the conversation - I very much enjoyed my business/pleasure trip to Munich/M√ľnchen in September of 2017! https://pbase.com/brucemac/2017septmunchen)
BruceMc 04/02/19 03:09pm Tech Issues
RE: Bathroom Sink Faucet

During my countertop replacement project, I replaced ours with a new stainless fixture: https://a4.pbase.com/o11/88/791988/1/168773865.xKys38q9.168773627.Pr9VBchG.jpg The only gotcha I ran into was the drain is a non-lift-stopper style. The faucet has a pull rod for the stopper, so I cut it about a 1/4" beyond where it emerged from the bottom of the faucet, then threaded the end and bolted it in place. The pull rod is non-functional, but serves as a decorative function. Have fun picking what you'd like to have in your unit! There's lots of options.
BruceMc 04/02/19 02:53pm General RVing Issues
RE: Replacing Stereo

Our Jensen double-din in the dash worked for a couple of years. I tried to use the GPS, but found it to be very sub-standard excuse for the intended purpose. We don't listen to the radio or CD on the road as it's nearly impossible to appreciate the music in such a loud environment. Initially, the only real use it saw was as a 5V power supply for my handheld DeLorme PN-60. About a year into ownership, I installed a pair of dual 1.2A USB ports in the lower dash fascia, so the need for the Jensen disappeared. Last winter, I attempted to turn it on for some odd reason, and found it was completely dead. All fuses checked out ok, so something decided to quit in the head unit. The Chevy dash is not the easiest thing to open up, so there it sits - yet another example of fine ASA Electronics engineering. If'n when I decide I want a replacement, it'll certainly be a quality brand. I use a 5" Garmin on a ram mount at the far left of the dash, which has served me well over the years. Even if the in-dash unit had a good GPS setup, it would still be awkward to use owing to GM's dash design. (As much as I prefer GM over Ford, GM sorely needs to hire some decent UI engineers and have a lot better build quality...)
BruceMc 04/02/19 02:45pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Mixing two oil wieghts

Yea, I just had to jump into the fray for the fun of it. Correct, water isn't much of a lubricant particularly for these applications, for sure. With the advances in lubrication and manufacturing, you are correct, there's no need for those older thick oils. We used to run either straight 30 wt or 10-40 in our vehicles then 10-30 became more common. I currently use 5-30 in our American vehicles, but the 2016 VW gasser is still an odd beast - it requires 5-40. Per your comment regarding lifespan - in my late teenage years, I recall shopping for used cars. Anything that had 60-70K miles was considered "worn out", where 100K was pretty much unheard of. Again, you are correct - I regularly put around 200K on my vehicles before trading, and most of those have still had engines that didn't use a drop of oil. Other major things were failing, but the engines were just getting broken in.. Fun.
BruceMc 03/08/19 10:05am Tech Issues
RE: Mixing two oil wieghts

While uselessly adding to the cacophony, mixing weights is not an issue, particularly when they are that close. What I'd like to say, however, if they keep manufacturing thinner oils, it'll soon be the same as water... might as well pour water into our engines!
BruceMc 03/08/19 09:42am Tech Issues
RE: Command Electronics Taillight gasket leak

These command taillight assemblies are very poorly designed. They don't lend well to crappy assembly either. Here's what I found after my taillights started filling with water not long after we purchased it new in October '15: After initially removing the taillight, it was apparent the assembler forgot to install the gasket before wiring the fixture. They tore it in spots, then kinda tossed it in the hole: https://a4.pbase.com/g12/88/791988/2/168893563.RKEkMgLb.jpg The fixture, when it wasn't wet, was filling with dust: https://a4.pbase.com/g12/88/791988/2/168893564.VLU572VX.jpg https://a4.pbase.com/g12/88/791988/2/168893565.HiqGVVVC.jpg In spots, the gasket wasn't even in place: https://a4.pbase.com/g12/88/791988/2/168893567.MWrmQDRm.jpg https://a4.pbase.com/g12/88/791988/2/168893568.UWqFJ8fZ.jpg Additionally, the center clear lens gasket was the same material. One was designed with 2 screws, the other had 4. To rectify this issue, I cleaned all surfaces, then laid a thin bead of clear sealant at the mating surfaces between the red & clear lenses, then assembled them. No more leaks there... Next, I ran a bead of clear sealant around the perimeter of the red lens & set it in place, ensuring some squish-out around the perimeter of the lamp. I had re-drilled the holes as some were stripped, thus ensuring all 6 screws would seal the lens properly. I added a touch of sealant in the screw holes, then gently seated the screws. Once all was in place, I cleaned up the excess sealant. I did not attempt to reuse the existing gasket. The new seal was created purely from sealant. I've had zero leaks since then. No fogging, no water setting in the bottom, no dust, nothing. If you are having similar issues, replacing the anemic gasket isn't going to help much unless you give it a little help. Don't just put sealant around the edge - if anything, back out the screws, pull the fixture away from the surface a bit, then force sealant in the gap. Pull the screws one at a time, put a dab of sealant in the screw hole, then reinstall the screw. Tighten gently & remove the excess. Next, remove the center clear lens & do the same thing. Again, these are cheap fixtures, but they can be made watertight. Good luck, and let us know what you did and how well it worked.
BruceMc 03/08/19 09:09am Tech Issues
RE: Bought sunseeker 3010ds

if you haven't already, head over to the Forest River Forums for everything Forest River. Keep in mind the Sunseeker has a close cousin, the Forester. Both have similar naming, for example, the Forester version of ours is the 2251. I browse & participate in both forums. We have a 2016 2250 Sunseeker on Chevy, and have very much enjoyed it. Forest River seems to be huge conglomerate of brands, so quality varies by plant and by day. When they are shoving them through, they do some fairly shoddy work. Unless the previous owner cleaned up after them, you'll probably find areas full of assembly debris including lots of lost fasteners. However, our unit has been much better overall than our 2000 Four Winds 26Q on Ford. Check out my modification pics on my photo hosting website: PBase - BNMac - Sunseeker Images. Enjoy your Sunseeker!
BruceMc 02/28/19 08:29am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Can somebody help me ID this???

And the power connection appears to be typical red & black Anderson PowerPole connector. I'd bet Ham as well.
BruceMc 02/27/19 08:55am Technology Corner
RE: Sunseeker 2500ts or forester 2501ts livability

That's a tough call. It's going to depend out how you use the space, and whether you can work with these floor plans over what you had before. We have a Sunseeker 2250sl, about 24' in length, and do very well with it, (what other would consider very limited space). But it is only the two of us, or maybe three adults. No dogs, no kids (in the MH, at least), at our stage in life. We make do with what we have - and are very happy with what (little) we have. Granted, we don't have the 12' pop-top slide in truck camper any longer, but it would have not been serviceable for our needs at our stage in life. All I can suggest is: Go try it out. You can do with less space if you try, but it's purely your choice. There's really nothing I can say that will help you make your decision; I can only say what works for us.
BruceMc 02/09/19 11:24pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Mounting solar

I mounted the panels on our previous motorhome rubber roof using angle aluminum, then run the leads through a weathertight connector into a hollow aluminum framing member. Pics: Framing dicor'd and screwed to the roof: http://a4.pbase.com/g9/88/791988/2/156986940.HrXMJj0f.jpg Weather-tight connection into framing member: http://a4.pbase.com/g9/88/791988/2/156986946.HlgKX4Qc.jpg Remainder of Solar Panel Install images I've yet to add solar to the new Sunseeker (irony not intended), but it's in the plan.
BruceMc 02/06/19 11:48am Tech Issues
RE: Gadgets & Gizmos

Probably the most useless "gadget" was the Coleman Grill-Top Coffeemaker. If we wanted a cup tomorrow, that's fine, but good golly, it took way to long to make a pot of coffee. We went back to the old fashioned perk coffeepot. We gave it to a friend as he'd been looking at them. I suspect it's still stored in his "items never to be seen again until his kids clean out the place" garage....
BruceMc 02/04/19 11:24am General RVing Issues
RE: Replacing countertop with Corian (solid surface)

Kitchen is finished! http://a4.pbase.com/g11/88/791988/2/168742559.XDZVIfYG.jpg http://a4.pbase.com/g11/88/791988/2/168742557.4ft3xqGX.jpg Backsplash: http://a4.pbase.com/g11/88/791988/2/168742558.fbirZOBH.jpg Detail around the window: http://a4.pbase.com/g11/88/791988/2/168742556.Lui745mM.jpg The bath vanity countertop is next. I'll soon have a 10x13 oval stainless sink, and will post pics once it's complete.
BruceMc 01/26/19 09:17am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Replacing countertop with Corian (solid surface)

Thanks T18SkyGuy! The story continues On Forest River Forums ...
BruceMc 01/19/19 07:50pm Class C Motorhomes
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