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 > Your search for posts made by 'CapriRacer' found 29 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Endurance failure

When I was working at a major tire manufacturer, we used to classify tire returns into 3 categories: 1) Initial quality: Anything that exhibited itself almost immediately. This included vibrations, bulges and indentations, and appearance issues. These are all manufacturing related. This "failure" sounds like one of those - a manufacturing problem. 2) Road hazards - self explanatory 3) Endurance - these occur many miles down the road and are what most everyone means when they are talking about ST failures, China bombs, etc. Endurance failures are design related, not defects! This "failure" is NOT an endurance failure.
CapriRacer 07/09/19 06:47am Travel Trailers
RE: Tire plugs

I'm the guy who ruins the statistics. I've had 2 plugs fail out of 4. And for the record, you’re the guy who claims to know more about tires than the Michelin man himself. Yup! I did it as an experiment. I didn't do them myself, and I kept track of their success. Which is why I think of plugs as a temporary repairs.
CapriRacer 06/17/19 06:28am General RVing Issues
RE: Tire plugs

I'm the guy who ruins the statistics. I've had 2 plugs fail out of 4.
CapriRacer 06/16/19 06:08am General RVing Issues
RE: Tire warranty

Many tire dealers don't like doing warranty work - no money in it. This is particularly true if they didn't sell the tire.
CapriRacer 06/11/19 06:43am Class A Motorhomes
RE: 10 ply tires?

Hello Any issues going from d range 8 ply 65 psi to 10 ply 80 psi, on the stock rims on my rockwood 8281ws? Thanks And just so everyone understands: The term "ply" is used incorrectly. Officially these tires are Load Range D and E. The obsolete term "Ply Rating" is sometimes used, but it is confusing because modern tires don't have 8 or 10 actual plies - which is why it was replaced - and it is even more confusing when the word "rating" is left out.
CapriRacer 06/11/19 06:37am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Could it be simply a matter of more air in the tires?

Last Thursday, I replaced the OEM BF Goodrich Rugged Trail LT245/75R17 LRE tires with the identical sized BF Goodrich All Terrain KO2 tire. Up until last Thursday, my truck with the OEM tires (always inflated to 55# front/60# rear per the yellow sticker on the door jam) and the Jay Flight 23RB trailer were an extremely stable combo. 99.9% of all passing 18 wheelers never wiggled the combo. Normal winds had little effect. However, the first tow with the new tires and same trailer, loaded about the same, was closer to a white knuckle affair. The air pressure in the new tires was the same as the OEM tires, 55# front/60# rear. Would it help if the new tires were aired up more? Say to 65 or 70 in the rears, and 5 to 10 pounds more in the front? The basic tread design is exactly the same between the two tires. However, the new tires are 3 pounds heavier per tire, has a slightly deeper tread, and counting the heavier, larger shoulder lugs, is about .5 inches wider. Any thoughts? Seems that the latest mold release compounds causes the tires to initially be a bit squirmy (how's that for a technical term?) until it wears off. This seems to be worse for LT tires than for passenger car tires, but it happens there, too.
CapriRacer 05/31/19 05:54am Tow Vehicles
RE: Tire Dealer trying to sell me older tires, what do I do?

First, it is a common BELIEF in the tire industry that properly stored tires are "new" until they are 6 years old. I say "belief" because I don't know of any studies that confirm this. HOWEVER, the company I used to work for had data that indicated that there was no difference between properly stored 3 year old tires and freshly made. Also, the clock starts ticking when the tires are SOLD - and the date of manufacture is only used in the absence of a purchase date (no receipt!) Check the warranty for details. Further, it is common for some tires to be produced only once a year. That means the tires sitting on the shelf could easily be over a yaer old and no one on the retail end of things is going to care. So I think the OP is going to have some problems with the tire dealer - except for the fact that the dealer did agree to supply tires less than that - Poor salesmamship!
CapriRacer 05/16/19 06:04am Class A Motorhomes
RE: tires overloaded?

Why do OEM rate capacity at 80% of tire rating? Actually, it's the other way around: They select the tire capacity such that it meets the vehicle capacity at 80% of the tire's rated load. That's just good engineering practice. They do the same thing for nuts and bolts, but no one notices those.
CapriRacer 04/28/19 06:28am Truck Campers
RE: tires overloaded?

The Ford/Firestone "thing" was not an issue of load ratings. There were defects in the manufacturing. Most of the issue involved manufacturing in Venezuela where failure rates were 1000x the failure rate for Dayton manufacturing. Don't you mean Decatur? (Illinois). I was talking about what happened around August of 2000, and nothing involved Venezuela. Here's my analysis: Barry's Tire Tech: The Ford / Firestone Controversy
CapriRacer 04/26/19 09:26am Truck Campers
RE: tires overloaded?

10%??? How abut 15%? For the past 25 years, the major tire manufacturer I worked for has insisted that they will not supply a tire to any vehicle manufacturer who specs the tires at more than 85% of its rated capacity. That was based on a survey of our internal records of tire returns and the published specs of the vehicle those tires were supplied to. What we found was when a vehicle manufacturer spec'd tires no more than 85%, the failure rate was almost non-existent. This was prompted by a problem we had with an RV manufacturer. This was confirmed by the Ford/Firestone situation shortly thereafter and it appears that other tire manufacturers and other vehicle manufacturers had similar experiences, because AFTER the Ford/Firestone thing, vehicle manufacturers started specifying larger tires.
CapriRacer 04/26/19 06:43am Truck Campers
RE: "LT" tire pressures on Expedition

Truncating all the previous posts: What you say makes a lot of sense to me as an engineer (though not a tire engineer). I would like to add that the rating on the side is a MAXIMUM pressure and a Maximum load so they need to be read in that context. Likewise, most wheels have a maximum pressure rating. If yours don't I would assume that it is no more than maximum pressure rating of the original tire. While I agree that wheels rarely fail I feel that there is a good reason behind the ratings. One of the things that I believe causes confusion among consumers is that tire pressure vs weight capacity charts don't seem to be available for the tires we use. ….. They are available, but they are largely unneeded, because ALL light vehicles (cars, pickups, and the like) are required to have a vehicle tire placard which will list the original tire size and the specified pressure for that size - and all the tire maufacturers will tell you to use that. The exception to that is when a different size is used, and that is a whole other level of complexity. ……. I can easily get them for the load range H tires on my motorhome but not for my pickup or any car. A while back I put high fuel economy tires on a Taurus and noticed that they were rated at 50psi instead of the 35psi on the original tires. That raised the questions in my mind of whether I had to use the higher pressure to get the advertised fuel economy benefits and were the wheels rated for it. I called customer service at Goodyear and they flat out refused to answer any questions and would only tell be to use the recommendations on the manufacture's sticker. ….. That's because if you used the same tire size, the vehicle tire placard IS their recommendation regardless of what the max pressure on the sidewall says - even for high fuel economy tires. …... They also refused to discuss the pressure ratings of any specific tire but they did finally give me excerpts from a chart developed by that American Society of Automotive Engineers from who knows how many years ago. ……. Ah ….. Mmmmm. … SAE doesn't publish load tables. Tire Standardizing Organizations do and in the US it is The Tire and Rim Association and those tables are pretty much good forever - that is, they don't change over time. ……. When I pointed out that the chart had a lot lower pressure rating than the sidewall did for the fuel efficient tires at max load they said that going up to 10psi over was not a problem. ……. Yes, the load table is the load table for ALL the tire sizes listed in the table - even ones with higher max pressures. …..Anyway, if you can help us find some data developed by engineers and testing instead of going by opinions I would appreciate it. What kind of data did you have in mind?
CapriRacer 04/09/19 11:10am Tow Vehicles
RE: "LT" tire pressures on Expedition

One of the reasons I love following these threads - even though I don't own a travel trailer - is posts like the one below: I read whats on the tire and do that. My rule is: Do not exceed the manufacturer's specifications. People try to outsmart the engineer who designed things. I do what the engineer said do. That's contradictory. The engineer (That would be me!) says what is on the sidewall isn't a recommendation - that reading the sidewall isn't going to give you the answer. And if you read my post further upstream correctly, you'll notice I didn't actually give a recommendation. I merely asked for additional information and made a statement about the relationship between P type tires and LT type tires.
CapriRacer 04/09/19 06:00am Tow Vehicles
RE: "LT" tire pressures on Expedition

Be careful what you read on forums, especially RV ones. You're not going to blow out a valve stem by airing up to 60 lbs, or even 120 lbs, nor will your factory OEM wheel grenade. The pressure rating of your OEM wheel, if it even has one, will be more than the pressure any tire requires that will physically fit on it along with a substantial margin for safety/ error. Don't inflict yourself with a case of Rv board OCD. Yup, be very careful what you read on internet forums - including the post above. If the installers used regular valve stems (Why wouldn't they?), the valves CAN be blown out by excessive pressure. In the case of regular passenger car valves - the kind your vehicle came from the factory with - the max pressure is 65 psi. It is likely the installers used the same kind. And to answer your question, I have to ask a question: What was the size of the tire that came originally on your vehicle and what pressure was specified for it? And what size did you replace them with? Without those numbers, no one can tell you what pressure to use. BTW, there should be a sticker on the driver's doorframe - commonly called the vehicle tire placard - that will list the original tire size and the pressure specified for that size. The replacement size can be found on the sidewall - and be sure to include the letters in front of an/ore behind the size. Those numbers tell what kind of tire and affect what pressure to use. Assuming for the moment you replaced the original P metric tires with LT tires with the same dimensions, the LT tire requires 15 psi more than the P metric tire to carry the same load.
CapriRacer 04/06/19 06:24am Tow Vehicles
RE: Question for Tire EXPERTS

As a general rule, in emergency maneuvers - the kind that should be of concern - vehicles tend to pivot around odd tires - and the more odd the tire, the worse that tendency. In this case, we are talking a small motorhome with a different brand of tire that is 1/2" smaller in diameter. First, this combination can NOT be used for duals. The larger diameter tire will carry more load, and that could cause a catastrophic failure of the larger tire. Even assuming the intent is to replace one of the single tires, this still sounds like a very bad idea. …… Are you sure about the size difference? The tire size is literally that, the size of the tire. In your case a 195/75R16 is 195mm wide with a sidewall being 75% of that which is 147mm. That means by definition it will have an 86.4” circumference. Sorry, but those dimensions are only guidelines and the tire manufacturer can use any dimensions he wants. If the specs say they are smaller in diameter, then they are smaller in diameter.
CapriRacer 04/05/19 06:45am General RVing Issues
RE: Sailun Tire Failure

….. The Chinese manufacture all kinds of things. The examples of them screwing up technically complex manufacturing are so numerous as to be common knowledge at this point. …... 50 years ago, the same could have been said about the Japanese - and that is no longer true. At some point it won't be true of the Chinese - and even today, there are some high quality items coming out of China, so the process has started.
CapriRacer 03/02/19 05:55am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Tire pressures vs chart

I want to emphasize again: The tire load charts are MINIMUMS, not recommendations. Even the OEM's specify more pressure, because that is just good engineering practice. GY Tech says to add 5psi to what the chart says based on ACTUAL tire load. I prefer 15% more load carrying capacity. That's usually about 10 psi.
CapriRacer 02/04/19 09:05am General RVing Issues
RE: Tire pressures vs chart

I want to emphasize again: The tire load charts are MINIMUMS, not recommendations. Even the OEM's specify more pressure, because that is just good engineering practice.
CapriRacer 02/04/19 07:06am General RVing Issues
RE: Tires, what are you using? Trailer? Truck?

So I checked my wheels and I can't find a psi rating anywhere on them. Also checked my spare wheel for my other trailer and found nothing on it either, just a weight rating. If I had tires rated higher than the factory pressure, I'm not sure what I'd do. It is my understanding that the max pressure is NOT required by the regulations - and after asking the question of various people who might know (wheel engineers and the like!), the best information is that load, not inflation pressure, is what is critical - that inflation pressure hardly matters when it comes to wheel failures.
CapriRacer 01/26/19 07:33am Towing
RE: Rear tires balance

From Yokohama's web site: "....the red mark on the tire, indicating the point of maximum radial force variation, should be aligned with the wheel assembly's point of minimum radial run-out, which is generally indicated by a colored dot or a notch somewhere on the wheel assembly (consult manufacturer for details)......" Please note that this only appies to Yokohama tires. Other manufacturers don't necessarily use red dots - some don't apply any marks at all.
CapriRacer 01/23/19 08:20am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Rear tires balance

Most tire manufacturers still put a yellow paint mark on the tire that is supposed to be aligned with the valve stem. This is the lightest part of the tire. ……. ah ….. Mmmmm ….. not exactly. First, the mark is usually red - AND - it's the high point of uniformity (think roundness and you'll be close), not balance. Second, the vast majority of wheels are NOT marked for the low or light point with the valve stem. With a few exceptions, the placement of the valve hole is random. Yeah, I know, that is NOT what the Yokohama web page says, but they are wrong. Last year I did a survey of OE manufacturers and found only one (Chrysler) who match mounted using the valve hole and it was for uniformity, not balance. No one else specified the location of the valve hole - and since, by far, the vast majority of wheels come as OE on new vehicles (meaning the aftermarket replacement of wheels is by comparison pretty small), what Yoko said wasn't true. HOWEVER, there is no harm done matching tire dots to the wheel valve hole - only it more than likely doesn't do anything of value.
CapriRacer 01/22/19 06:47am Class A Motorhomes
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