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 > Your search for posts made by 'CharlesinGA' found 162 matches.

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RE: WDH or not?

Haven't pulled my camper yet with my new to me 2016 2500 Megacab. My travel trailer is 28' and 5500#. I have always used a WDH w/sway (cheap one they threw in when I got the TT). Like most, it is a 2" bar. The Ram has a class V hitch, 2-1/2" receiver. I have the sleeve, to use the WDH, but wondering if I would be better off, just using a class V and forgo the WDH. I have all I need either way, so really just wondering which is best, thinking there could be some movement in the WDH using the sleeve. Thanks Joe This sure does sound like you are citing a dry weight for the trailer. I would expect a 28 ft trailer to have a gross weight of 7K to 8K. Charles
CharlesinGA 02/23/21 12:40pm Towing
RE: Class C Aluminum Wheels

After getting fed up with wheel simulators, I put ALCOAs on my Class C. The ride difference is outstanding. So much less unsprung weight for the suspension to deal with. Ahhhh, someone who understands unsprung weight and how it affects driving and the ride quality. While I do not mind steel wheels on cars, my favorite family owned tire shop says that alloy wheels run truer and balance easier with less weight than steel wheels. I have a '03 RAM 2500 Tradesman model that had steel wheels when I bought it in 2018. In 2019 I was able to buy a set of like new factory aluminum wheels off a '09 (still 3rd gen truck) 3500 SRW. What was astounding was the difference in weight. The steel rims were 17 pounds each, heavier than the alloy wheels. And yes, I could tell the difference in the ride over bumps and anything that made the tire bounce, as the shock had less weight to dampen the movement of. Its subtle and like a lot of things, after you get used to it, you don't notice it any more, but its there, or rather, not there, anymore. I think Alcoa does make an alloy inner wheel for the rear now. Used to be that you retained the steel rim on the inner rear. There are three part numbers, rear inner is not polished at all, outer rear is polished on the dished side, and the fronts are polished on the "bulged side". You cannot put the wheels in different positions due to the lack of polish on the inner side of whichever wheel it is, and the fact that the inner side gets marks, impressions and rust stains, etc, from the hubs. Charles
CharlesinGA 02/23/21 12:17am Class C Motorhomes
RE: 5th Wheel Broken Stud Theory

deleted, duplicate post
CharlesinGA 02/18/21 10:13pm Tech Issues
RE: 5th Wheel Broken Stud Theory

If you are interested in carrying or owning a GOOD QUALITY CLICKER TYPE torque wrench for torquing wheels, that basically never needs calibration and won't get out of calibration and won't be damaged if you leave the tool set to a torque above zero, then I suggest the "split beam" torque wrenches made by Precision Instruments. https://www.amazon.com/Precision-Instruments-PREC3FR250F-Silver-Torque/dp/B002XMSFIM This has an 11° flex head to help with fender clearance and are a one way tool with a non reversing ratchet (so you also need to carry a breaker bar with you). Precision has been in business since 1938 and makes a very reliable tool. We had a number of these at work and the calibration room said they always checked perfectly (there is no adjusting them, they can only be scrapped if bad). I own both the 3/8 drive and ½ drive models. (I actually own about 20 different torque wrenches, with ranging from an 80 in/oz model, thats 5 inch lbs, to one that maxes out at 1100 lb/ft) Here is the big one being used to torque the ball on my Blue Ox hitch to 450 lb/ft https://www.irv2.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=304374&d=1602473527 Charles
CharlesinGA 02/18/21 10:11pm Tech Issues
RE: Follow-up to my frozen refrigerator....

So how cold does it have to get to for it to freeze and needing this done? Never read of this before. Inquiring minds want to know. CharlesWell Charles, chances are you will never have to worry about it. Not sure how cold it gets in Atlanta, but nothing like in the frozen north!! When I had the issues with mine, I was FT in my 3 season TT. Temperatures dropped into the minus 30's C for an extended time. I was blowing through a 30 pounder every 2-3 days just trying to stay warm. When the temperatures got into the minus 30s, propane flow slows down and I had to put a heating pad in there with my bottles. Before I did that my furnace ceased to function. No gas, no heat. Then the fridge quit at about minus 33 or so. I bought a 110V bar fridge to use until spring. When I was running constantly between minus 25 to -30, it wasn't a problem. Get over -30 C and things start to slow down. After I took my fridge for an end over end walk and revived it, I put a 100W light bulb in the back of it to warm it a bit. It worked. Got that idea from Don in Regina. (Pianotuna) Thanks Don. Now ask me about frozen pipes.... That's another story. Well I have a heated shop that the trailer would normally belong in, but I got this other one I need to get motivated on and finish replacing rotted wood and get it together and sold, It is a decent trailer otherwise, and I replaced the roof, but it is in the shop as it is opened up, and cannot go outside. The GOOD trailer is sitting under a cover outside (isn't that how it always works?). The coldest I have ever seen here where I am now (since '94) is zero. Of course that was the day my heat pump's outside fan motor decided to take a trip south. I had to replace the blower motor outside with a torpedo heater blowing on me. The heat pump was actually producing at that temp as the house temp was being maintained (with the assistance of the back up elements) but with only the back up elements the house was slowly cooling off. Yes, blocking off vents and installing a 100 watt light bulb (I have a couple of packs of them stashed away) would probably do the trick. Charles
CharlesinGA 02/18/21 09:19pm Tech Issues
RE: Winnebago Skylight

Is this the openable Midi-Heki vent? They are German made and extremely expensive. For a long time you had to buy an entirely new vent assembly. They are owned by Dometic now. So you might search the Dometic site for the skylight and parts. Charles
CharlesinGA 02/18/21 08:39pm General RVing Issues
RE: Surge protector and water filters

You are not looking for JUST a surge protector, you want what most of the manufacturers refer to as a EMS (Electrical Management System) which is somewhat of a misnomer but in any case, they do alot more than just catch surges. They have a relay in them that will close after they check the incoming circuit for crossed wiring (which would be at the pedestal) and they also monitor voltage and only allow voltage between about 105v to about 125v to prevent burning up devices such as A/C units (generally due to low voltage). They will also (usually) monitor and shut off power if the voltage is too high or low after you plug up, and also the cycles (Hz) is out of range. Here is the text of a post I made on another forum in response to almost the same question about surge suppression/electric management.......... I installed a hardwired Progressive Industries EMS-HW30C in the Winnebago View motor home I had previously. Sold it. Unit worked good, I liked having the display inside that showed the volts, amps, cycles, and previous or current error code. Its gone now, so I gotta do it all over again. Planning on a portable unit this time, get a new RV, and keep the device, they are too expensive to keep giving away when I sell something. Considering the Progressive EMS-PT30X. It has the same display built into it, so if you want to see it, you gotta go to the pedestal and look at it. Must hang vertically when in use (not sure why) so the lack of Bluetooth to an app or inside display and the must hang vertically are the Cons of this. Also, the surge suppressor in this unit cannot be replaced by the owner, and must be returned to Progressive. USA made and does display cycles are pluses to me. Other good pluses are a weather cover over the receptacle where the shore cord plugs in. $286 on Amazon, cannot be purchased from Mfg. Second is the Southwire/Surge Guard 34930 OR 34931. This has all of the bells and whistles too. It monitors cycles and shuts down if out of range, but does not display the cycles. The 34931 has the optional Bluetooth capability to a display inside the RV (I like that), but apparently no app to use on phone or tablet. No mention of a replaceable surge suppressor, in fact it says the unit should be replaced if you get a surge failure warning. $251 from Amazon, cannot be purchased direct from mfg. Third is the Hughes PWD-30EPO which does all of the same things as the others, but will Bluetooth to your phone or tablet, no separate display available. I cannot find anything that says it monitors cycles, so not sure on that one. It does have a user replaceable surge suppressor in case yours blows. $255 retail from Hughes. $230 on Amazon. Progressive features and comparison chart Southwire/Surge Guard feature and comparison charg, scroll to bottom of page Hughes features and comparison chart, scroll down the page to near the bottom. For me, what I would like to have is the Southwire 40430 which is a transfer switch and EMS combined. I have a built in generator, so this would be perfect, but it is something like $600 and no one would talk about discounting it. I think it is an odd beast that may disappear from the market Southwire has not taken any pains to promote it. I am liking the Hughes unit more than the others. As far as the autoformer goes, it is a step up transformer (Boost) and as such draws more current than it puts out. Many private parks forbid such units as it puts additional loads on their already strained systems. The 2020 version of the National Electric Code says that autotransformers, autoformers, line conditoners, whatever you want to call them, and not allowed to be used in an RV park/campground. There is, of course, no teeth in this unless a local AHJ (Authority Having Jurisdiction) meaning a state, county, city, etc, has adopted that version of the code and incorporated it into defacto law. But, simply put, they are 1) trying to get campgrounds to improve their electric grids, and 2)stop people from causing even worse brownouts by some people using autoformers while others suffer with even lower voltage. I don't have any skin in the game, so it doesn't matter to me, but it is something to think about. Not trying to start an argument, just stating the simple facts as best as I can. Charles
CharlesinGA 02/16/21 10:54pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Follow-up to my frozen refrigerator....

So how cold does it have to get to for it to freeze and needing this done? Never read of this before. Inquiring minds want to know. Charles
CharlesinGA 02/16/21 03:06pm Tech Issues
RE: Nebraska Rt. 2

We are heading out to RMNP this summer in our 5th wheel, and looking into taking Nebraska Rt. 2. We already made reservations in the Neb national Forest near Halsey for a couple nights. So I'm torn with continuing west on Rt. 2 to Alliance, then up 385 to Chadron SP, or heading north on US 83 to Valentine, then west on US 20 to Chadron SP. We'll probably book Chadron SP for 4 nights. Looks like either way will be scenic, I'm just asking if anyone thinks one of the two plans is better than the other. Any input is appreciated. I was in Alliance for the Eclipse in August 2017, here is my trip report My Black Hills, Badlands, and Solar Eclipse trip of August 2017 Leaving Alliance I drove Nebraska highway 2 east until I got to Halsey, and the Nebraska National Forest. The road is pretty good, the scenery is rolling open countryside (sandhills) and you will probably enjoy it. Headed north out of Alliance on 87 you will have the opportunity to stop at Carhinge. You can then backtrack the couple of miles to Alliance to get to 385 or you can continue north to an intersection with Jefferspn Rd and go west to 385 (I have been that way also and it is a decent road, I think it is also know as 7E) I have not been to Carhinge, it was crazy the day of the eclipse and I had stayed the night about two miles north of there, and I took highway 2 on the spur of the moment as opposed to heading south to the interstate. If you are staying in Chadron for a while, there is a Walmart in town on 385 at 20 so you can stock up on anything you need. If you turn EAST on 20 out of Chadron from 385 for 4.6 miles, on the right will be a large Red roofed building which is the Museum of the Fur Trade. It is well worth the stop. Plan on spending a couple of hours, as the displays are extensive. Note that on Google Maps there is a marker for The Bordeaux Trading Post which is MISPLACED, as the Museum of the Fur Trade is about 1500 ft further and includes the original Bordeaux Trading post. you cannot miss the building as it has a nice red metal roof. https://www.furtrade.org/ Grand Adventure on Youtube did a segment last year on his Heartland 2020 tour and included quite a bit of the museum in it. Ep. 154: Pine Ridge | Nebraska RV travel camping hiking MTB history panhandle Watch the whole video, you will get some ideas of things to see in the area. Charles
CharlesinGA 02/14/21 10:52pm Roads and Routes
RE: West Glacier to Moab in 4 days?

Think if you are following this, that you are seeing, many of us would seriously look at the routing and timing of your trip, Glacier will be better Later - Moab Earlier - Teton's anytime - Yellowstone a long time. I just had to quote this, you put it so well. I haven't been out there yet, but have studied and researched for a couple of years...... Charles
CharlesinGA 02/14/21 10:07pm Roads and Routes
RE: Need Help Deciding which feature for trailer

Any married man knows the correct thing to do is ask your wife what she wants. I hope yours was not looking over your shoulder as you typed that :o :B :E :W Charles
CharlesinGA 02/14/21 09:42pm Travel Trailers
RE: Looking for reliable travel trailer

22 to 25 ft models make good "couples" trailers. Depends on seating and beds, but I see a lot in that size range described that way. Charles
CharlesinGA 02/14/21 12:24am Travel Trailers
RE: Flush Transmission and Radiator?

New hoses and new belts. Use OEM stuff. The auto parts store stuff is no where near as good. It will have some heater hoses with special quick disconnect ends on them. You can buy the ends at auto parts stores and then buy good red or blue jacket heater hose which will last forever. For the large radiator hoses I tend to go to the dealer, after that, Gates. All of the rubber parts on the vehicle are getting old. Power steering return hoses are probably rock hard, replace them and refill. The new fluid would be good for it. Pressure hoses hold up alot better. Brake fluid, bleed the fluid thru the system till fresh fluid is coming out. If you can find someone with the proper test box, they can exercise the anti lock brake pump to flush fluid thru it, then bleed again till fresh again. barring that, find a rural dirt road with loose dirt or gravel on it and lock up the brakes a few times to exercise the pump, then bleed again. The antilock never gets cycled so the fluid just sits in them. Brake fluid absorbs moisture, so it needs periodic replacement, otherwise the water in the fluid will boil when the brakes get hot and this causes lots of problems with brake operation and effectiveness just when you need them. Charles
CharlesinGA 02/13/21 11:54pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Running CPAP Without Utilities

My son uses a Jackery 1000 for his Dream Machine. It uses 6% of a full charge for one night. He also has the optional portable solar panel to charge it. He has a cigarette lighter type power cord that plugs right into the 12V Jackery port. I was going to suggest a Bluetti, I knew there were others but could not remember the names, Jackery is quite popular. They are expensive but some of the larger ones would run the CPAP and an electric blanket for days on end, especially if you used a portable solar panel to top it off during the day. Charles
CharlesinGA 02/13/21 11:39pm General RVing Issues
RE: Sticker and residue removal

I'm going to ask, what kind of stickers do you want to remove? the large decorative decals? or the stickers at the water fill, Power, the one on the front left with tire sizes, weights, etc on it? If the latter, think twice before you remove them. The manufacturer installed those stickers for a reason, or several reasons. The large one on the front left, with tire sizes, weights, etc, is REQUIRED by Federal DOT, It would be akin to removing the VIN numbers off your car. The one on the power connection is REQUIRED by the National Electric Code. I don't know for sure, but I suspect the one on the water fill is probably required by some plumbing code. The sticker near the propane bottles is, I think, a DOT required sticker, cannot recall for sure. Code compliance is required by the RVIA who issues the serial numbered oval sticker on the outside near the door. Removing the stickers would certainly prevent the trailer from being exported to Canada, but might also cause issues elsewhere. Supposedly a few (vary rare if actually any at all) campgrounds make having the RVIA sticker (and hence the others) a requirement, to weed out the schoolies, ambulance conversions, cargo trailer conversions, etc. Possibly I am picky about such things, but.... If I encountered a trailer that were missing such stickers, ESPECIALLY the DOT sticker on the front left, and the RVIA sticker, I would walk away from the deal, even if it were being given to me............ They don't put those stickers on there for the fun of it, the manufacturers do it because they have to. If they could not do it, they would not. Charles
CharlesinGA 02/13/21 11:33pm General RVing Issues
RE: Ev charging in camps expectation of availability, cost

O P here. Met with our SD district 30 reps today in a mid legislative session crackerbarrel . Hb 1153 passed by supermajority levying a $50/ annum surcharge on SD our registered 162 personal EVs inthe state. Its a crack in the wall to raise fees equivalent to road use taxes in our user pay for road use service. It was accepted that the % of EVs registered in state will grow beyond ICE powered vehicles. exponentially. $50 a year is probably not near enough but at least they didn't go the other way. I leased a 2015 Nissan LEAF from May of 2015 to late April of 2017. It was a 2 year, 24k mile lease. I turned it in a couple of miles short of 24K. In 2016 the Georgia legislature was pondering the road use tax issue for EV's and one legislator calculated about $100 (which was darn close to the tax paid on gasoline for my 32 mpg Vibe for 12K miles, but what did they do? the a$$ hat went "well $100 is OK so lets go with $200!!!!" and that is what they did in the legislation. Total ripoff. Hybrids such as a Prius only had to pay $100 a year. To be fair, I got a $5000 state income tax credit for that lease, which just about paid all of my state income tax for one year. I cannot see how a campground would be able to afford to add the infrastructure needed to support even Level 2 chargers at every campsite. Now, RESORTS, those places I would never go, but the guy with the 40 diesel pusher with an EV on a trailer behind it would go to a place like that, so with sites being $90 a night or more, they could afford to do an upgrade. If I were running a basic mom and pop campground near national parks and other out of the way places where electricity is limited, I would probably just install a couple of level 2 chargers somewhere close to the incoming power and set up some fee schedule for their use. The only other alternative would be something like the charge point system we had at work. I lived far enough from work that the first year, I could not drive the LEAF to work and home, Then they put in ten Charge Point connections and you flashed your card and it would deduct from your account. When the account got down to some amount, I don't recall what, i think it was $10, it would charge your credit card for an additional $25. I worked a Fri-Sat-Sun 12 hr days and a make up day every third week so on the weekends when the chargers were open, I would park on them and I would get a text message when it was fully charged and I would usually move it off the charging station (mostly because I wanted the car closer to me at the end of the shift, the stations never got full on weekends so there was no dying need to vacate the space. My drive to work one way was about 47 miles, mostly interstate and the typical cost to charge was just shy of $2. I still have a $17.22 balance on the account and the last time I used it was April 23, 2017. I have two level 2 units here at the house, one on the back of the house, and another just inside the shop door. They were/are relatively inexpensive, so when GA Power made me an offer for a flat bill (no make up at the end of 12 mos) on the house, I put the one on the back of the house and drove for free for that first year. I dropped the flat bill after that, since it was going up about $30 per month due to my extra consumption the previous year. Charles
CharlesinGA 02/13/21 11:13pm General RVing Issues
RE: Made It Into The Big Times -- BTBRV

Its the community page, on those you keep adding to the top and pushing stuff down. Its all still there, you just gotta go down the screen to find it. I just discovered it today, and apparently its been up three days. There is something else, not a rig pic, already above it. But Hey, I got my 30 seconds of fame. Over 600 likes, so not too bad. Charles PS, the cat's not mine, she belongs next door. I do have three cats however.
CharlesinGA 02/09/21 07:33pm General RVing Issues
Made It Into The Big Times -- BTBRV

If you are on a mobile device, I cannot provide a working link, on a desktop or laptop go here.............. https://www.youtube.com/post/UgzSx9jh8DY3bEF-4WN4AaABCQ On mobile devices, open the Youtube app, do a search for Big Truck Big RV, and select the round black logo with the BTBRV lettering in it, that is his channel home page. Then from the menu bar on top select the Community page and scroll down (right now its the second item, it will move down as other stuff is added on top). You will see this pic, https://yt3.ggpht.com/cgmNsq8gp8UdOUq_ZSkmSJ0L09q9Vocd7mSOQRrZ4WyqpdPDP39q-isg-6qpJbJD4vMalgD5cl5FRA=s800-nd Basically, viewers were invited to send in pics of their rigs, which I did, a long time ago. He finally got to me (alot of people submitted pics). If you are not familiar with it, BTBRV is a rather popular Youtube RV channel where he discusses equipment, trucks, trailers, accessories, etc, currently there are 346K subscribers. Link to the channel home page https://www.youtube.com/c/BigTruckBigRV/featured Charles
CharlesinGA 02/09/21 02:35pm General RVing Issues
RE: Adding a new 120 vac circuit and outlet

The push in back wire is so cheesy that its almost criminal. Thankfully the code allows wire no larger than 14 gauge and the hole is small enough you cannot get 12 gauge thru it. I refuse to wrap around a screw on an outlet. I buy the commercial/industrial backwire design that you insert the wire and tighten the screw and a knurled or serrated plate is drawn up to clamp the wire inside. If you tighten them properly they won't work loose. Frankly, every couple of years you should go thru an RV electrical system and re-tighten everything, going so far as to open up transfer switches and other boxes that contain connections to tighten. If you are interested in not having screws to work loose, use the Hubbell SnapConnect® type receptacles and then use the WAGO connectors to make the connections to the Romex™ https://www.hubbell.com/wiringdevice-kellems/en/Products/Electrical-Electronic/Wiring-Devices/Straight-Blade-Devices/SnapConnect-Receptacles/c/2027718 https://www.wago.com/us/lp-221 RV receptacles are designed and certified to be installed without a separate box. They ARE the box. I wished someone made a better version of them however, with quality connections and heavier spring tension contacts for the plugs to engage with. At home I use all commercial stuff that is actually difficult to plug into, but you get good contact. Charles
CharlesinGA 02/08/21 08:52pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: F-150 best add on mirrors for this shape of mirror

I am going to recommend the OP go to https://www.ksource.org/ and spend some time on their website. Ksource is a manufacturer of mirrors, and nothing else. They are OEM to all of the car manufacturers, so the products you get are generally the same as the ones you get from the dealer or manufacturer. Somewhere in their website they do have a place to plug in your make, model, year, etc and it will give you choices of different mirrors. Charles
CharlesinGA 02/08/21 07:39pm Towing
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