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 > Your search for posts made by 'Chum lee' found 356 matches.

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RE: Newbie-type question about power supply at home

Depending on where you get the power for your house, (power company) you can't always depend on getting a static voltage to your main panel. The voltage can go up and down in your neighborhood as well. (that can effect the voltage at your panel) After your AC has been running for a few hours, it would be a good idea to check the voltage at the input of your main panel and compare that to the voltage DROP you are seeing inside your RV. That way you will KNOW the voltage drop from your panel to the RV which could be important as summer gets in full swing and the power demand in your neighborhood goes up. (the available voltage at your panel may go down) I've seen line voltages (from the power company) fluctuate at as much as 15 volts on a 120 volt nominal residential service. Chum lee
Chum lee 06/25/19 06:55pm Tech Issues
RE: 50 to 30 to 15 amps

You probably won't have a problem doing what you suggest. "I realize I will need to limit the load to under 15 amps." The problem is that "EVERYONE ELSE" other than you who uses the RV needs to be aware of the 15 amp limit too. If they aren't, then you have created the possibility of having your dog bone adapters/extension cord(s) functioning as your circuit breaker which they are not designed to do. When we were kids, we burned up my moms vacuum cleaner because we didn't know the limitations. Some how we managed to insert a 120 volt plug into an outlet that was wired for 220 volts. (it's a long story but we did it) That vacuum worked really good . . . . . for a few seconds. That's when the smoke started pouring out of it. My mom wanted a new vacuum anyway. Chum lee
Chum lee 06/25/19 02:26pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: NADA Pricing versus Actual

There are hundreds (if not more) of market conditions that effect the variable price of a given vehicle in a given location on a given day. NADA is just a starting point, mostly for banks and dealers to determine used vehicle values for the purpose of lending. Any vehicle sells for what the seller can get for it moderated by what the buyer is willing to pay. No more, no less. Think about it. If you were selling a motorhome and somebody wanted to buy it for $10,000 cash, then, before you shook hands (transferred funds and closed the deal) someone else offered you $11,000, what would you do? IMO, as a buyer, you can use NADA as a starting point in your specific negotiation, but, the rest is up to you. Two identical vehicles could sell for drastically different prices just depending on where they are located on the planet. Get the picture? Chum lee
Chum lee 06/24/19 05:59pm General RVing Issues
RE: mild rant, contractors and repair folks

I understand that things happen but in today's age of cell phones there's no excuse for not calling when you know you cant make it or will be late. I agree with the above, but I also feel that it is a totally different issue than failing to return a cold call. Once you agree to something, if you aren't going to show up or show up late, common courtesy is to let the other party know ASAP, if possible. Chum lee
Chum lee 06/22/19 04:44pm General RVing Issues
RE: 2006 Ford F53 transmission and wheel bearing maintenance

Since you tow (pic from your sig line) you are putting the transmission fluid under more stress than if you didn't. If you changed the fluid at 30k, I wouldn't worry about it right now. Go, have a good time, and, take care of it when you get back. It's not as if the fluid is good at 60k, then bad at 60,001 miles. It's a progressive thing. Unless the transmission is shifting badly, the, fluid smells burnt, and it is off color, (brown instead of red) you should be OK. Just don't continue putting it off, just because everything seems OK . . . . . at least for now. Chum lee
Chum lee 06/22/19 12:25pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Generator Help - Blue Smoke

Is your oil leak new or has it been leaking for a while? If your crankcase breather is plugged, it could force an oil leak and oil burning at the same time. Does the oil (inside the crankcase) smell like fuel? I second the idea of using ONLY the recommended lubricant and keeping the "genie in a can" inside the can it came in and on the store shelf. (do not overfill the oil) A stuck float or choke in the carburetor could add excess fuel to your oil causing it to leak/burn prematurely. Think positive. Any oil burning that came, apparently, out of nowhere, can stop just as quickly. (once you find/repair the problem) If the genny starts and runs well and generates rated power, (and doesn't make unusual noises) it's probably not an internal mechanical issue. Check the air filter for oil saturation. Chum lee
Chum lee 06/22/19 12:09pm Tech Issues
RE: Looking for a Class C. No cabover with washer combo.

I’m just starting to look. Preferably used. Looking for a Class C. No cabover with washer combo. I see a Coachman Concord deletes the cabover. Any others? I would also like a tv fireplace across from theater seating. Your specs so far are leaning more towards a +-34' Class A or a Super C. (possibly with slides) Chum lee
Chum lee 06/21/19 12:09pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Oven door handle replacement

If you can find a replacement handle, be prepared to have a spare set of hands available to help with the reassembly. You have to take the oven door apart to remove/install the handle attaching screws. Installing the lift springs and tensioning them while setting the door in position will try your patience. They must have a special jig (which I don't have) to help them with the initial assembly at the factory. I suggest you install some flat washers to help add some strength/rigidity to the handle/door stiffness so the handle/sheet metal wont bend in the future when it gets leaned on. (which it will) Chum lee
Chum lee 06/21/19 11:59am Tech Issues
RE: mild rant, contractors and repair folks

I have a hard time believing that any business is SO busy that they can't return calls from potential customers, even if it is to say, sorry I can't/don't/won't do your requested project. It takes all of 30 seconds to do so, and while you may consider it wasted time, it may very well be the difference between staying in business and going bankrupt 2-5-8 years down the road when the economy changes (which it always does) and you are scraping for work. As current business slows down, contractors usually start returning calls more frequently. I'm not saying its right, IMO, it's just what happens. "Newsflash, my time is just as important as yours, if not more so." Now if I could get everybody else to believe that, (and act that way) I'd be all set. Chum lee (not currently holding my breath)
Chum lee 06/20/19 06:25pm General RVing Issues
RE: House batteries

Hi all, my 2000 30' Fourwinds currently has 1 regular 12v battery- I see the pan is designed for a 2 battery setup. I happen to have two 6v deep cell Crown golf cart type batteries that will parallel to 12v. This would provide some serious power... would there be a concern of too much amperage for stock wiring/systems of this old rental rig? Thanks in advance for the feedback. R Considering the age of your RV, since it already has a larger battery box/pan, it probably initially came with 2 six volt batteries from the factory and someone later changed it to a single 12 volt to save money. So, it would be to your advantage to put the RV "BACK" to the way it came from the factory. (2-6 volt deep cycle batteries) I wouldn't call it "serious power" but, chances are, it will be better than what you currently have. Chum lee
Chum lee 06/20/19 06:13pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Starter solonoid

The solenoids can be purchased/replaced separately (new) as opposed to buying the entire starter assembly. (new/rebuilt) Most stick and brick auto parts stores can help you. Online available too. It's a very common item. I suggest you buy an OEM replacement. Should be about $45.00. You'll be up and running in no time. Chum lee
Chum lee 06/20/19 02:28pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Easy start on 2000 watt 13500 btu

I have a coleman 13.5 and a honda 2000. At Sea Level, 70 Degrees they work in harmony. At 95 degrees and 1000' elevation & eco mode off, it'll start and use ever bit of the 2000 watts it can put out for 20 minutes then overload. At 4000', again, with Eco off, I can start it and get it to run for maybe 10 minutes and overload. I like knowing that my rooftop HVAC and generator will reliably and harmoniously work when I don't need them (70 degrees @ sea level) and that they probably won't when I do need them. Sounds like a match made in heaven. Chum lee
Chum lee 06/19/19 12:07pm Tech Issues
RE: Extensive Sidewall Delamination on Keystone Raptor

The fact that your slide also delamed tells me that it's a global delam issue as far as your fiver is concerned. Its probably not just because of a roof/sidewall moisture intrusion. It could be that the water is getting in there but, IMO, it's also just a lousy laminating job to start with. (also temperature related) If you know, what did the other side look like (internally) when it was repaired? If you decide to fix it, you might want to try fixing the slide portion first. Are the end panels on the slide delaming also or are they good? Chum lee
Chum lee 06/17/19 01:10pm Tech Issues
RE: Question for Class A owners.

One thing that has me perplexed is how are the engines on Class A's repaired? How can mechanics get to the engine for major engine work? It seems as if the MH is literally built over and around the engine. Are special repair facilities needed? I doubt you can go to your local Ford dealer in the case of a Ford chassis Class A gasser. Thanks for any information. The stock Ford F53 doesn't usually need much major engine work, however, it does happen. I find myself "under" the MH for most common maintenance items where access room is very generous because of the high ground clearance. (oil/filter changes, electrical wiring, lighting, transmission service, brakes, etc.) Most of the common repair items (belts, hoses, fluids, spark plugs/wires, injectors, fuses, relays, sensors, etc.) are relatively easy to get to through the exterior hood and/or the interior doghouse. IMO, the F53 is probably easier than most other Ford counterparts like the Econoline Van or the F series trucks. Since the F53 is a heavy duty truck chassis, the components are generally heavier and larger (and dirtier) than their automotive counterparts but I don't generally find it to be an issue getting things repaired and/or keeping them maintained. An adequate selection of hand tools is always a plus. Chum lee Edit: You should always call ahead first if/when you decide to go to a Ford dealer. Not all Ford automotive dealers have sufficient clearance at the doors/ceilings inside the shop nor can all the lifts handle the size/weight of Class A's. Not all dealers have qualified truck techs either. Your chances are better at Ford Truck dealers, but some of them just "HATE" RV's and refuse to work on them unless you're willing to wait . . . . . oh . . . . say 3 months for an appointment. Some are more than willing to help you ASAP.
Chum lee 06/14/19 01:11pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Fuel economy and additives

I'm not sure if the Ford can use 85 or not. I can use less than 87 octane fuel but it lights the Check Engine Light on mine (stock 1999 V10 2 valve) every time I hit a hill of any magnitude. I notice no drivability issues, but clearly, the ECU doesn't like it. If I clear the fault code, it returns promptly on the next hill or in a strong headwind. Switching to 87 octane cures the CEL issue every time. The Owners Manual clearly warns against using less than 87 octane fuel. Sometimes I forget to check when buying fuel at higher elevations. Ooooops. That **** light is on . . . . . . again. Chum lee
Chum lee 06/12/19 01:38pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Online Oil Filter Dissection And Discussion

This is old news and is neither fair nor accurate. Agreed, except I would change the video title to "The Worst Oil Filter Analysis Ever!" Why? Not one word about the oil filter medias actual filtration abilities. (test results please) Hummmm. If you are going to do an oil filter analysis video, why leave out the most important part? On some applications, the anti drain back valve function is important too. (He is right there, Fram is horrible) But, you can't test that visually! This guy is all caught up on surface rust. A non issue IMO. Chum lee
Chum lee 06/11/19 02:07pm Tech Issues
RE: 30 & 50 amp

Generally on RV's, a 30 amp service is ONE 120 volt 30 amp circuit. A 50 amp 120 volt service is TWO 50 amp 120 volt circuits. So a 50 amp service is really a 100 amp service split into two 50 amp circuits. (50 amps maximum on each circuit) So, its important to realize that a 50 amp service is 100/30 or 3.33 times the capacity of a 30 amp service provided you load the circuits correctly. Generally you can NOT exceed 50 amps on each circuit. Chum lee
Chum lee 06/11/19 01:39pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Ford V-10 plug problems

A little off topic but, . . . years ago there was a "compression release" craze for dirt/racing/off road bikes. The lever/cable controlled valve vented the combustion chamber gasses to induce engine braking. It worked really well, until after a weekend of desert riding, you pulled your cylinder head and saw the damage done from all the ingested dirt. That's when mine went into the circular file. (and I rebuilt the top end) The brakes seemed to work just fine after that. Braking? I've never heard of that but I did have a compression release lever on my 1985 Honda XR350. It was there to allow easier kick starting, especially when hot. It basically just held the exhaust valve open. You kicked the motor over and once spinning, let it go to light it off. It also worked great for roll starting in lower gears. Maybe you were doing it wrong? As for the V10, I'd drive it to the shop that way. You've never heard of a compression release? Here ya go! Here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Compression_release See the section on Motorcycles (2 stroke) I don't think I was doing it wrong, but, thanks for the suggestion! On 2 strokes, it's for a different purpose than on 4 strokes. (braking rather than starting) Chum lee
Chum lee 06/10/19 06:08pm General RVing Issues
RE: Ford V-10 plug problems

With a spark plug missing, you are sucking unfiltered (dirty) air from the engine compartment into the cylinder with every power stroke. Not a good option, but, if you have to get home or to a repair facility, . . . . it may be the only option. A little off topic but, . . . years ago there was a "compression release" craze for dirt/racing/off road bikes. The lever/cable controlled valve vented the combustion chamber gasses to induce engine braking. It worked really well, until after a weekend of desert riding, you pulled your cylinder head and saw the damage done from all the ingested dirt. That's when mine went into the circular file. (and I rebuilt the top end) The brakes seemed to work just fine after that. Anyway, don't wait too long to get those stripped spark plug threads fixed. Chum lee
Chum lee 06/10/19 02:09pm General RVing Issues
RE: Essential Tools or I sure wish I had brought............

Star and square bits for all those stupid speciality fasteners. I'm saving a can full of "dope slaps" for the people who specify/install specialty fasteners when simple standard threaded fasteners will do just fine. Chum lee
Chum lee 06/08/19 01:18pm Class A Motorhomes
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