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 > Your search for posts made by 'Chum lee' found 48 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Does Anyone See A Need For a Portable Generator?

Thanks, everyone, for your input. As I suspected, there's really no good reason to have an external generator. FWIW, I have 600W solar, 4 LiPo batteries (400Ah), and no, I don't really want to have to store gas for the genny onboard... yes, I agree it's a hassle, that was one reason I posed the question... and I, too, typically run my onboard generator when using a high Amp appliance. As for the consequences to the external genny, I don't know why it didn't function properly after charging my battery bank... it would start and run briefly, then shut down. Can't tell you if time has healed it, for it belonged to someone else, and he used his all the time for his setup (pull behind trailer, no onboard genny)... thankfully, he had two. I'll save the external genny for power outages at home... Well, you didn't say the above in your initial post. That said, there are other fellow RV'rs who AREN'T as well prepared as you. (full credit given to you) Having the remote jenny (just like a set of jumper cables) may help someone else out of a current jam they are in. RV life isn't just about you. IME, what goes around, . . . comes around. Chum lee
Chum lee 11/11/21 11:10pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: tankless waterheater question

So I'm new to tankless WH in an RV. When you winterize do you store them with antifreeze in the lines or can you effectively drain and blow them out? When I bought the unit during the PDI I was told to always put antifreeze in it because there is no way to get all the water out. I want to do what's going to protect my heater best but would like to avoid storing antifreeze it in. Hummmmmmm. No information about the specific unit you are talking about or where/how/what it's installed in. I would suggest you read the manual that came with the tankless WH along with the general information in the manual that came with your RV. Chum lee
Chum lee 11/09/21 11:28pm General RVing Issues
RE: Cold weather, generators, and campgrounds

My cartoon bubble: As for the "rules are rules" folks, rules are at the discretion of the enforcing authority to enforce as they see fit. I couldn't agree more. Chum lee
Chum lee 10/18/21 05:43pm General RVing Issues
RE: Replacing water heater due to age........

21 year old Atwood in my motorhome working fine. Yep! Me too. I have a 21 year old 6 gallon gas/electric Atwood in mine and it's still working fine. All I've ever done is regularly clean the flue/burner/ignitor. IMO, the water heater is probably the most reliable appliance in my Class A. (so far) That said, I've seen a lot of aging RV's with carbon/soot/burn marks up the exterior panel right over the water heater cover. Don't ignore regular maintenance especially if the heater is having trouble lighting or staying lit. Chum lee
Chum lee 10/10/21 06:57pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: PSA - cracked wheel on 2012 F53

While doing a lugnut torque check I discovered a crack in the hub-plate of a rear wheel. The wheel has been replaced and the rest of my wheels checked for cracks. I filed a report with the NHTSA. Glad I didn't find it the hard way as the wheel failed! https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLVpm4pBZ6qwZD16IbKm3hMsIcOMK-GgOmXuciDcuLZ21_0q7if_JZyBOXsYy8GUg0HXPKwzn-mOHpu72QBUErQ8kOIM4tGru4Q9Xn3cMKFpfJHd3gBrYOgx7UHU4xOjw9mg4vm6RTiWVEjI4HwevuPBpA=w2743-h1543-no?authuser=0 height=768 width=1024 Any chance you could repost the picture, I can get it to open. Thank you. Nice pic, (thank you) but I need to see the "other side" of the hub. Chum lee
Chum lee 10/08/21 09:24pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: PSA - cracked wheel on 2012 F53

Good eyes! It's not a Ford part number, but, my bet is that the stamping of that post production/serial number (whatever it is) on the face of the flange had something to do with the initiation of the crack. Glad you found it before the . . . . . "unthinkable" happens. The engineers at Ford should get to the bottom of this before "ASAP" happens. Hopefully it's just an exception rather than a pattern failure. Chum lee
Chum lee 10/08/21 03:20pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: PSA - cracked wheel on 2012 F53

Good find! Rare in the hub of steel wheels , . . . . but, . . . . it does happen. Did the crack clearly propagate to the other side? Chum lee
Chum lee 10/08/21 09:49am Class A Motorhomes
RE: New shore service tripled energy bill

I'll speculated that it's the house but again a Kill A Watt will isolate to the RV and if so turning off CBs will isolate the circuit. A 60A continual battery charge would result in warm batteries, possible bulging sides and maybe ready to explode. Yep! I don't know what number/type of batteries the OP has or their condition. If they are wet cell lead/acid, continuous over charging (IMO, over 10 amps each) WILL eventually result in water loss, then severe off gassing (hydrogen gas) which is explosive/corrosive. Chances are it will eventually trip the propane warning alarm if there is one nearby. The acrid smell of rotten eggs, (hydrogen/hydrogen sulfide gas) should be present for a while before . . . . . . . . boom! Chum lee
Chum lee 10/01/21 08:50am Tech Issues
RE: New shore service tripled energy bill

We recently ran a 50 amp service to our barn where or FW resides… I left the power connected over the past couple months to keep the battery topped off … I also left our fridge on (electric) for a couple guests who stayed a few nights (no a/c usage as it was cool outside)..: the fridge ran for the entire two month period… I recently reviewed our electric bill… typically we’re in the 300-400 kWh range… last two months were 1186 & 1346 kWh… Does the fridge use that much juice or should I be looking for a parasitic draw somewhere between the house and the barn? My 30' Class A (30 amp service) a with a single rooftop AC and a Dometic 2652 Fridge on electric uses about $45.00 per month in the Albuquerque summer paying $.15.5 per kwh for metered shore power. I use the AC and the fridge everyday. About 290 Kwh per month. No water heater. IMO, something (major) is left on in your RV. As Doug mentioned, my bet is your electric water heater if you have one. Chum lee
Chum lee 09/30/21 08:51pm Tech Issues
RE: Which old motorhome to buy

The Mrs and I are considering building a skoolie vs getting and older RV and fixing up what needs to be fixed. It depends a lot on your skill level. Most aging school buses have windows down the full length on both sides. The body structure and weight reflects that. Making your new floor plan coordinate with the window spacing is a challenge as well as removing and plugging the windows if you go that route. (water and air leaks) Most school buses aren't designed for basement storage, IMO, a HUGE negative in a Class A. At some point, if you don't have basement storage, . . . . IMO, you'll wish you did. That said, I've seen some very nice older MCI tour bus conversions. See youtube. Just remember that everything in the bus is custom made, there's only 1, and other than what you create, generally there's no support network on the road. Getting RV's repaired properly is a job in itself, IMO, most repair techs RUN (away) when these type of vehicles show up in their shop. Chum lee
Chum lee 09/29/21 07:14am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Where to get steering alignment done for a class A?

I feel your pain. Very frustrating! I'm assuming you have 19.5" wheels? There are good alignment shops out there, just few and far between when it comes to your specific vehicle/chassis combination. Some Ford Truck dealers are better than others. IMO, all you can do is keep calling around in your locale until you find someone who is familiar with your vehicle. IME, increasing the air pressure in your front tires (above 80 psi recommended) will help with the outer edge tire wear, but, as others have said, will compromise ride quality. (smoothness/harshness) I use 85-90 psi in my 30' Class A F-53. If possible, moving some rear axle weight forward may help a little with directional stability. If still no joy, increasing the caster and getting the toe-in right will make it seem like a different vehicle. You don't state the current mileage. If over +=60,000 miles, you might want to consider replacing the shocks. Chum lee
Chum lee 09/28/21 08:13am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Rear axel ratio for E-450 176" WB?

Google is your friend. Search: "2022 Ford E-450 Stripped Chassis specifications" They should be the same for 2021. Chum lee
Chum lee 09/27/21 09:33am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Do you do this in the US?

"Do you do this the US?" I don't personally, but if you've ever been camped at/near a mosquito infested Alpine lake, you'll quickly understand at least one reason why people do it. When I visited friends in Fort Lauderdale, Florida, virtually everyone in the bricks and mortar development who had a pool, had a fully enclosed screened patio deck to keep the bugs out. (not to mention the occasional alligator) Chum lee
Chum lee 09/27/21 09:20am Class C Motorhomes
RE: CA SMOG Testing: Anyone Have Trouble w/Non-CA Class A?

Contrary to what has been said here, there are vehicles that are not made to be sold in CA. Some states require EPA Cats, CA requires CARB Cats. It extends past this and you need to check the VIN and maybe with a CA. smog shop. Out of state vehicles are shipped to, and registered in California all the time. I've done it many times. To be more correct, IMO, what you mean is that NEW (the key word here is "NEW") vehicles that are not CARB compliant cannot be originally sold as new in California. This applies to motorcycles, generators, lawn mowers, and lots of other liquid fueled equipment as well. As long as out of state US vehicles meet the USEPA standards (for US markets) they were originally designed for, generally they can be imported as used vehicles to California with a "little" extra red tape. There may be some specific exceptions to this so it's best to check with DMV first. Have the year, make, model, engine code size/type, and VIN number ready when you call. See "grey market" cars. This mainly concerns non-US imported vehicles, but, if there's will, there's usually a way to do it. It it worth it? IMO, not always. See: https://www.motortrend.com/vehicle-genres/porsche-959-california-legal-2020-amelia-island-details-photos/ The article states that above referenced vehicle needed over $500,000 worth of modifications, fees, permits, etc., to become legal in California. But, . . . . it did happen! Chum lee
Chum lee 09/25/21 10:06am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Smog Test Mystery

I have been taking our 2004 Tioga 26Q to the same smog test only shop for a number of years. Each time the Asian technician tells me that it did not pass the test, but that he would get it to pass, (and he does it). I am the original owner and the engine/smog equipment has not been modified. I recently had the engine properly tuned up by a respected garage. I ask him what causes the test failure. He mumbles in a thick accent that the engine might not have been warmed up enough on the way to the shop, or that the catalytic converter may not be working properly.( no specifics) BTW, the rig has only some 11 thousand original miles I wonder if others have had similar experiences with smog testing on the same E-450 engine. IMO, it's quite possible that your smog tech is telling you the truth and doing you a favor. (IMO, doing nothing illegal) With such low miles in a stock system, it's unlikely that anything is significantly worn out or malfunctioning. Is your "check engine" light on? If so, . . . . . automatic fail at a "test only" station in California. Catalytic converters/oxygen sensors MUST be warmed up regularly or they can be poisoned with unburned hydrocarbons, sulfur, and oxides of nitrogen and lose efficiency. (enough to make the vehicle fail) The best way, IMO, to purge the converter is to use premium or mid grade fuel, then do a long, sustained, high RPM pull up a steep grade just prior to the smog test. 10 miles or so if you can find the right location. Bring it in hot, and test it hot. IMO, that's your best bet to pass with flying colors. Chum lee
Chum lee 09/24/21 12:17pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Outrageous CA registration fee!

Last December we bought a 2000 Airstream Land Yacht. They want $775 to register it for 2022! WTH? We never paid anything like that much before on our previous motorhome. Is this some new punishment from our a-hole governor for our "carbon footprint" or some such nonsense? Does anyone know what's going on? We are furious! We love living here for the climate and geography but this has to be the worst governed state in the union. In California, when you buy a NEW vehicle, you pay state sales tax on it. (in addition to initial license/registration fees) When you buy a used vehicle, you pay a "USE" tax on it which is often the same as the sales tax, the DMV just calls it something different because it's a used vehicle. Provided the vehicle is currently licensed/registered in California, you also pay a transfer of ownership/title fee. The use tax is generally based on your claimed purchase price. If the DMV feels that you are under reporting the current value (purchase price) of the vehicle, they can default to the published Kelly Blue Book value (if one exists) and charge you more. In subsequent years, you will only pay the annual (depreciated) registration renewal fee which is generally (not always) based on what the state thinks is the current market value. Chum lee
Chum lee 09/24/21 10:43am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Class A Low Bridge Accident

Possibly the driver was from a foreign country and thinking in . . . . METRIC! I've seen a simple economical solution for this. Depending on approach speed, prior to the low clearance issue, from all approaching directions hang (from above) a light soft flexible easily movable object like a 4" round PVC pipe from rope/chains a few inches lower than the minimum clearance. That way you get a much more "subtle" warning prior to the impending disaster. No reading/thinking required. Kinda like Botts' dots and/or rumble strips, but, in the air. Chum lee
Chum lee 09/15/21 01:43pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Worn suspension

Today someone told me the suspension on our old RV might need work. I was surprised because normally in a car when the suspension is going the ride really changes and there are noises. I had the RV on the road just yesterday and didn’t notice any problems. But it does have over 54,000 miles on it. I also don’t see any uneven tire wear or noticeable sagging. The guy said the right side is lower but I really could not tell. Is it common to need new leaf springs? I had the rear brakes fixed last year at a truck shop and they didn’t mention a problem with the suspension. How can I tell if it’s really a problem? Oh for Gods sake, IMO, you are being scammed. In your initiaL post you mention no problems. But now, after a "professional inspection" you have some. . . . . . . . FACTS! Your 2018 RV IS NOT OLD! 54,000 miles is NOT a lot of miles. Fix the problems you have. Ignore the ones you don't. Drive on. Chum lee
Chum lee 06/05/21 09:04pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: oil leak

Also get a spray can of brake clean and spray off the ac clutch face and plate. Making sure to get the spray into the clearance area of where the clutch plate pulls against and engages. You want it free of oil. "Suggest a complete cleaning of the oil . . . . determine the source. . . ." This is the best advice. Chum lee
Chum lee 04/22/21 08:31pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Pinging

ScottG wrote: "Also, Knock, ping are all exactly the same thing. You are alone in your suggestion that they are anything else." Not really. (I'm with Gdetrailer here) Clearly pre-ignition and detonation can have similar symptoms/effects, but, their origins are different. Forget Wikipedia, I suggest you obtain/read a copy of "Internal Combustion Engine Fundamentals 2E" by John Heywood, 2019 edition. The above is a college level required textbook for most accredited Mechanical Engineering Programs/students. Reviewing some Schlieren photography of active internal combustion chambers would also be helpful. To the OP, you can check your catalytic converter by tapping it lightly (when cold) with a soft mallet. If it sounds like marbles rattling in a tin can, . . . . you need a new one. Chum lee I understand your post but respectfully disagree. In both cases the root cause is heat in the wrong place and both causes and results are characterized in the trade school text books we used as knocking, pinging, etc. and much of this was from manufacturers. They weren't the product of any one persons opinion. In the OP's case that could be caused by anything from an EGR valve to a sensor to mechanical damage. What ever the case, none of this is helping the OP at all. Thank you for your response. I'm not talking about "trade schools" or, information from "the manufacturer." I'm talking about information from the highest level "engineering schools" which I graduated from. (with highest honors) There is a difference in the curriculum. I agree that the problem here is heat related. What's causing it, and, how to fix it is the issue. Please, . . . read the book I referenced. Chum lee Sorry but your book doesn't trump my schooling, associated text books and lifetime of experience. You think I don't understand your point - I do but is disagree with assigning what are generic terms to be specific references. And we're still revolving around someones ego rather than helping the OP. Oh for God's sake, IT'S NOT MY BOOK, IT'S A READILY ACCEPTED/ACCREDITED TEXTBOOK FOR MECHANICAL ENGINEERING STUDENTS. (CLEARLY, THAT'S NOT YOU) Your schooling is what it is. Mine is what it is. Go waste someone else's time. Chum lee
Chum lee 04/20/21 05:23pm Tech Issues
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