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 > Your search for posts made by 'Chum lee' found 52 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Goodnight Irene, the party's over.

No news here. (or rocket science) In my entire lifetime, (now approaching 70 years) every time the price of fuel spikes or the availability becomes questionable, the sale and value of fuel guzzlers plummets. I don't need industry experts to tell me that. Eventually the market always adjusts. The question is . . . when, . . . , and, . . . can you wait it out? Chum lee
Chum lee 11/26/22 05:56am General RVing Issues
RE: Coachmen Santara Capacities

If you still aren't having any luck, you could try searching for a similar used model "FOR SALE" at various popular internet sites like Ebay, Craigslist, rvtrader, pplmotorhomes or anywhere used motorhomes are bought and sold. Often, if you find a well documented ad, the seller will list many of the quantities in their description. As previously stated, these quantities may be less than accurate, but, it's place to start. If you are lucky, someone may have the original sales brochure still in their packet of manuals that came with the MH. Chum lee
Chum lee 11/17/22 09:05am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Refill small propane cylinder

Quite possibly a dumb question but bear with me. We recently bought a Mr Heater propane heater and a 5' adapter hose to connect a 20# cylinder to it. After getting it back to the RV (fulltimers), I read the instructions which stated not to hook up a 20# cylinder indoors. Is this a CYA on their part or is it really dangerous to have the heater and 20# cylinder inside our RV. We wanted to run the Mr Heater overnight as they are much more efficient that the LP furnace and the 1 pound disposables only last 4.5 hours on the low setting. By the way, years ago we had a Mr Heater Big Buddy in a 43' diesel pusher. I put a T in the gas line to the oven/stove and ran a hose to the Mr Heater. Never had an issue. YES! It is DEFINITELY CYA, and also an attempt to minimize the chance that you BBQ yours. From numerous widely published sources: "All propane tanks, including the cylinders you use for your BBQ grill, are required by law to have pressure relief devices to allow for the release of excess pressure in the tank. A safety relief valve is there to protect your propane tank from rupturing if excess pressure builds up inside the tank." Chum lee
Chum lee 10/27/22 05:12pm Tech Issues
RE: Refill small propane cylinder

My home BBQ came new with a small propane tank like the one shown by the OP. I think it was a 10# tank. The closest propane filling station to me had a $15.00 minimum charge to fill any propane tank. Since the next larger size (probably 20#) would easily mount in the BBQ, that's what is there now. In my travels, I've found very few propane filling stations that have a minimum fill charge, but, . . . . some do. Chum lee
Chum lee 10/27/22 07:05am Tech Issues
RE: Bedding Brakes

IMO, bedding new brake pads/rotors is a good practice but usually not necessary provided the technician who replaced the pads/rotors actually drives the vehicle a few hundred feet after servicing it. For those who do not understand how disc/drum brakes work: In modern days, most brakes are self adjusting, but, do require the first initial few pumps to adjust themselves to their respective mating surfaces by filling the caliper pistons (with brake fluid) to the correct amount. The new wear surfaces are also initially very porous (irregularities) and may have contamination on them from the repair process. The first driver may not be aware of this and be surprised when the first few pedal pumps go to the floor before they get any braking action. The pedal usually pumps up (the brakes adjust themselves) very quickly. To get full braking action, it usually requires a few aggressive stops. That's what brake bedding does. Driving moderately will do the same thing after a few miles. IME, it's those who EXPECT new brakes to work perfectly the first time who end up rear ending someone. Chum lee What you're describing has literally nothing to do with bedding in new brakes... You are correct. For high performance brake bedding techniques, FOLLOW THE BRAKE BEDDING INSTRUCTIONS OF THE MANUFACTURER. In my initial statement, I said, "USUALLY." We're talking motorhomes here, not high performance/race cars. If you are putting cross drilled and/or slotted rotors with metallic, ceramic, or carbon fiber pads on your motorhome, then follow the bedding instructions of the manufacturer, if any. For run of the mill OEM pads and rotors on a motorhome, unless the manufacturer specifically says otherwise, I stand by what I said. Chum lee
Chum lee 10/10/22 03:17pm Tech Issues
RE: Bedding Brakes

IMO, bedding new brake pads/rotors is a good practice but usually not necessary provided the technician who replaced the pads/rotors actually drives the vehicle a few hundred feet after servicing it. For those who do not understand how disc/drum brakes work: In modern days, most brakes are self adjusting, but, do require the first initial few pumps to adjust themselves to their respective mating surfaces by filling the caliper pistons (with brake fluid) to the correct amount. The new wear surfaces are also initially very porous (irregularities) and may have contamination on them from the repair process. The first driver may not be aware of this and be surprised when the first few pedal pumps go to the floor before they get any braking action. The pedal usually pumps up (the brakes adjust themselves) very quickly. To get full braking action, it usually requires a few aggressive stops. That's what brake bedding does. Driving moderately will do the same thing after a few miles. IME, it's those who EXPECT new brakes to work perfectly the first time who end up rear ending someone. Chum lee
Chum lee 10/10/22 10:38am Tech Issues
RE: 2006 Ford E450 Transmission issue

If it's not a fan noise, it could be an exhaust leak which is exacerbated by a plugged catalytic converter. That would also cause a loss of power and engine overheating especially at higher throttle settings. It should also set an oxygen sensor related fault code. You need to figure out if the sound is coming from the engine bay, from under the vehicle, or out the back? (exhaust pipe) According to the coolant temperature gauge, does the engine overheat when you hear the noise? Yes, No? You could also have a vacuum leak which should set a fuel trim related fault code. Have you checked the tension on the serpentine belt? Age of the serpentine belt? They usually squeal as they wear out and/or lose tension. Chum lee
Chum lee 10/09/22 03:43pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: 2006 Ford E450 Transmission issue

The fan noise you hear is normal and will occur whenever the engine/coolant gets too hot. Either an electric fan comes on, (if equipped) or the (mechanical) radiator fan clutch engages which is the whirring you are hearing. (due to high exterior temperatures, high coolant temperature, towing, uphill grades, etc.) When the engine/coolant gets too hot, the ECU (Engine Control Unit) goes into limp mode and reduces engine power so that you minimize the chances of damaging your engine/transmission. Your Ford Factory Owners Manual clearly explains this. :-) Reducing your speed, turning off your AC, and running in lower gears (higher RPM) if possible, will help minimize this condition if/when it occurs. Make sure your coolant expansion tank is full of fresh correct 50/50% water/coolant mix. If/when you hear the fan clutch engage, if you look at your coolant temperature gauge it should read slightly elevated from normal and should return to normal when the whirring sound stops. Chum lee
Chum lee 10/08/22 06:09pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Why not jack trailer under the spring plates?

Ever see leveling Jack's attached to the suspension? That should tell you something. Chum lee Leveling jacks would not stabilize the RV if they were attached to the suspension. The RV would bounce and rock the same as it does with no jacks or stabilizers. Thank you! That is EXACTLY my point which you have somehow missed. When you (or any other human) crawls under an +-18,000 lb. vehicle, . . . it should be stabilized CORRECTLY AND SECURELY. If not, if/when something unexpected happens, . . . . . your body (or parts of it) becomes the stabilizer. Chum lee
Chum lee 10/03/22 10:50pm Tech Issues
RE: Why not jack trailer under the spring plates?

Ever see leveling Jack's attached to the suspension? That should tell you something. Chum lee
Chum lee 10/03/22 03:26pm Tech Issues
RE: Class ‘A’ motor homes FORD chassis.

Yes, the 3/36 chassis warranty is good from the date of retail sale to the first customer, not the builder! Someone at the dealer doesn’t know what they are doing. Or they are just trying to avoid a warranty repair that is not as profitable as a retail repair. Local dealer tried to pull that on me with my pickup... I got Ford Corporate involved, they told the dealer to fix it. The local Ford dealer needs to have facilities that will accommodate an oversize/overweight vehicle. Not all do. Agreed, warranty repairs are often a loser ($$$.$$) when compared to full boat customer pay retail repairs. Warranty repairs are part of the deal that Ford dealers must agree with to become a Ford dealer. Where is the original poster in this thread? So far, me thinks this is just inflammatory nonsense. Chum lee
Chum lee 10/01/22 03:28pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Class ‘A’ motor homes FORD chassis.

A friend of mine bought a new Jayco Class ‘A’ Motor Home in mid year 2020. Recently while on a trip the right front wheel bearings went out, and he came very close to a catastrophic accident as the tire was just seconds away from blowing while he was driving on the interstate. Vehicle only had 20,000 miles on it. I also wonder if this problem would apply to all Class A? I don't understand. How can your friend know that his right front tire was seconds from blowing out while the right front wheel bearings were going bad? Did the right front wheel wheel lock up, depart the axle, . . . . orrrrr, . . . . . something else? Please explain. I've owned a 1999 Ford F-53 chassis since 2011 (N=1) with over 90,000 miles on it and never had or heard of this issue. Anything's possible though. IME, bad wheel bearings may get red hot, but they usually make a lot of speed dependent grinding/clunking/howling/leaking/vibration before something catastrophic occurs. I'd suggest getting some first hand info with photos before throwing lightning bolts at Ford Motor Co. and their F-53 chassis. Chum lee
Chum lee 09/29/22 05:20pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Just Asking

Starting about the middle of October through April, head out to Quartzsite, AZ. There are more that a few RV dealers (some seasonal and temporary) who think it's an excellent time to sell. Chum lee
Chum lee 09/25/22 08:40am General RVing Issues
RE: Just Asking

This might make me seem a little unstable, but, IMO, the best time to sell a self contained RV is right AFTER a catastrophic event takes place. For example, several years ago, a huge fire literally wiped out the town of Paradise in Northern California. Over 12,000 structures were destroyed in a day. The homes were mostly owned privately by people who planned to rebuild using RV's as temporary housing on their burned out property. Within a month, every available functional RV within a 200 mile radius sold/resold at premium prices because the demand skyrocketed while the supply dwindled. Welcome to America! Chum lee
Chum lee 09/25/22 05:49am General RVing Issues
RE: 1997 Chev P30 Dolphin motorhome fuel pump relay switch

I need to find out which colored wire goes to which terminal on the 5 pin relay as the wires were pulled out. The relay should have a schematic printed somewhere on it. (shows which wires do what) There should be two larger size wires (current from main bus to fuel pump) and three smaller control/signal wires. If you can find a wiring diagram (factory service manual) it will tell you which color goes to which terminal. Chum lee
Chum lee 09/21/22 10:20am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Closer to a head on then you ever want to be...

Once we got out heart rates back undef 100 my bride and I continued on for nearly 5 minutes before even speaking and what we had to say is not fit to print. What in the heck is wrong with people? :h While the mini van was the scariest driver I have ever encountered and probably impaired beyond being terminally stupid the Class A driver could have diffused the situation by simply getting on his brakes and letting the idiot squeeze in... why kill us??? :M:M:M Hindsight is always 20/20. You're assuming that the Class A driver also saw the impending situation and KNEW what all the potentially involved vehicles were going to do in advance. PROBABLY NOT THE CASE! Glad you, the Mrs., and, your vehicles survived, unscathed, to tell another story. Chum lee
Chum lee 09/18/22 08:40am General RVing Issues
RE: Storage of Fresh Water - How Long

A lot depends on where you got the "fresh" water that filled your tank and how long it has been there. If it came from your local municipal water supply, chances are the water has been recently chlorinated and disinfected with ozone, UV, or whatever the local water treatment plant currently does. You can usually call them and ask if you want to know for sure. If the water came from a private well, that's not the case. It could be much better than municipal water, or much worse. Test kits are available. Google is your friend. For me, if it looks bad (anything other than clear) smells bad, or tastes bad, dump it and flush the system with fresh chlorinated water. I drink/cook with RO (reverse osmosis) water. Chum lee
Chum lee 09/14/22 06:28am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Front grill filter

Wow! This is why I do not regularly post here any more. In my previous post in this thread, I clearly say I have 1/8" mesh, which, so far, works well, . . . . . then this guy (wolfe10) posts a link for 1/4" mesh and then says it wont work for the application which I'm not using it for. Chum lee Please, close the thread!
Chum lee 09/12/22 09:44pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Require a new driver's side wiper pivot mechanism

Good day, I'm new to this forum and looking for some help. I have a 2006 Holiday Rambler Scepter, 41ft. The driver's side wiper pivot mechanism is stripped, so the wiper, at will, slides off the drivers side of the coach when it does decide to work. The original P/N is 300678. Does anyone know where I might purchase one, I'm thinking aftermarket likely unless someone knows of some OEM ones around somewhere. Thanks in advance Dan Dan: Depending on who the chassis manufacturer of your coach was, the wiper pivot may have been supplied by the chassis manufacturer or from the coach manufacturer. At 41 ft., I'm assuming it's a diesel pusher, but, it would be best if you include that information in your initial post if you want accurate useful information. Chum lee
Chum lee 09/12/22 02:06pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Front grill filter

The previous owner of my 1999 Southwind Class A (Ford F53 chassis) zip tied some cut to fit 1/8" square galvanized steel mesh to the back side of the front radiator grill. Ya, that is what the Chevy chassis guru referred to as "hardware cloth". Much more open than any screen-- and "approved". Excellent for keeping rocks out of the radiator, but will not do much for bugs. I don't understand. I regularly pull bees, grasshoppers, moths, dragonflies, butterflies, June bugs, beetles, horseflies, etc. out of the wire mesh. Are these NOT bugs? In addition, it's also stopped pea gravel, broken glass, drywall screws, paper, plastic, leaves, etc. I know my RV didn't come from the factory with the screen, but, that's why I left it installed. Your experience may vary. Chum lee
Chum lee 09/10/22 08:20pm Class A Motorhomes
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