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 > Your search for posts made by 'Chum lee' found 380 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: utah activities for seniors

What do you like to do? When are you planning to travel? Where are you planning to travel in Utah? Chum lee
Chum lee 01/21/20 03:18pm General RVing Issues
RE: Ford V10 vs Pending V8

Just a word of caution from an ex Ford employee. Years ago it was usually a bad idea to buy the first generation of anything new. I'm not saying Ford hasn't improved over the years, but, IMO, it's a good idea to let Ford work the bugs out. (in the field) Time eventually heals almost everything. Think: popping spark plugs on the first gen V10. Failed COP coil packs. Timing chain tensioners. Phasers. The list goes on. Etc., Etc., Etc. Chum lee
Chum lee 01/21/20 03:10pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Workhorse W22, Chevy 8.1l exhaust rattle/noise

With the exhaust system cold, slide under the MH and hit the catalytic converter with your hand or a block of wood. If it sounds like a can full of marbles, . . . . you need a new converter. If no noise, try the same thing with all the other components of the exhaust system. Eventually you will find the source of the rattle. Check all your exhaust hangers and heat shields too. Chum lee
Chum lee 01/21/20 02:54pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Increasing towing capacity

In the engineering world, you have to deal with "weakest link" technology. That means FOR YOUR SPECIFIC VEHICLE, you have to analyse the design and discover what the weakest link(s) is/are and make a plan to improve it/them. It could be brakes, cooling, suspension, tires/wheels, weight and balance, frame strength, power limitations, emission control, hitch capacity, durability, etc., etc., etc. Assuming you have a Ford product, the engineers at Ford generally don't like to help you because when/if they do, their neck is on the line should something go wrong. That's why they publish the specifications that they do, then shut up. I know it's not the answer you want, but, the safest thing to do is buy the chassis with the performance you want, built in, and go from there. That said, there are thousands of people who will be more than happy to sell you something that helps you increase the towing capacity of your vehicle, but none of them will be around when/if you have problems. Or, if they are, they will point the finger at someone else. Your choice. Do you feel lucky? Chum lee
Chum lee 01/19/20 02:32pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Kirkland motor oil

Kirkland/Costco doesn't manufacture or blend oil. They buy blended bulk oil from those who do and package it in their own proprietary containers. Costco brands, IMO, have always had my respect as far as quality. (they aren't perfect) 10 quarts of synthetic oil for $2.50/quart is a good price provided the oil meets the specifications (in your owners manual) required. Any quality oil, synthetic of not, will have the specifications it meets written on the container. (API, ISO, ACEA, etc.) You can always pay more, if you want. It is your responsibility to confirm that the oil you purchase meets/excedes the requirements of your specific application. In short, you have to decide if good, . . . . . is good enough. Chum lee
Chum lee 01/17/20 12:22pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Zoning Law

Do you live in a planned unit development with CC&R's? (Covenants Codes, and Restrictions) If so, your homeowners association/board may impose additional restrictions over and above local/municipal codes. In short, the city may not care what you do, but your neighbors might, and, if there are CC&R's which regulate living in an RV on site, they CAN enforce their wishes. Chum lee
Chum lee 01/16/20 03:12pm General RVing Issues
RE: 1997 Headlights on Bounder

I know the halogen bulbs can be replaced But Can the headlight be disassembled to clean the inside of the lenses I've done the exterior clean and restore, with the mguires plastic polish and UV protection spray They are clear not yellow, but there are spots on the inside of the lenses Just replace them. The problem is not only the lenses degrading, but, the reflectors (inside the lamp assembly) degrade also. Turn the headlights on at night and look at the back side of the lamp assembly. If you see light going out the back of the lamp assembly, well . . . . . that light is supposed to go out the front. Chum lee
Chum lee 01/15/20 02:07pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Why are my batteries water overflowing during charging?

Yesterday I brought in my two deep cycle batteries from my boat and the one from my camper for winter storage. I check all of the water levels and had ended up adding some distilled water to each, bring it to just under a 1/4" from the top. So far all three batteries have overflowed during charging. What else could be the cause of this? I have never experienced this problem before. Any Ideas? When wet cell batteries charge, it is normal for the electrolyte and the other internal components (plates, separators, connectors, etc.) to heat up which causes them to expand. The electrolyte also will off gas. (hydrogen and oxygen) If you overfill the electrolyte, the additional gas has no place to go since you have blocked the vents. As the state of charge of the batteries increases, solid precipitate from the plates dissolves back into the electrolyte causing its volume to increase slightly also with no place to go but out the fill holes. Some charge cycles cause water to evaporate out the fill holes which can (not always) off set this. Someone else pointed out that the time to fully top off the water is AFTER you are done charging, as long as the plates are covered (about 1/8 to 1/4 inch) with electrolyte prior to charging. DO NOT CHARGE A WET CELL BATTERY IF ANY PORTION OF THE PLATES ARE DRY! Chum lee
Chum lee 01/15/20 01:52pm Tech Issues
RE: Deciding on Battery Replacement

They date from 2010 and 2011.It's time. I agree with this. If you have no diagnostic tools/skills and your battery bank won't power your system (from a known full charge) for more than a day, (or night) it's most likely time. At +-9-10 years of age, IMO, you have gotten your moneys worth, and a little more. Chum lee
Chum lee 01/14/20 04:54pm Tech Issues
RE: Flipping Axle

FYI-do not use cinder blocks on this project. They can crumble. Use boards. I would not hesitate to use 8 x 8 x 16 cinder blocks on a temporary basis long as they are 2,000 psi or better, monolithic, oriented/stacked properly, (cells vertical) and you use 2 x 8 boards "on top, and, if necessary on the bottom" of the blocks before putting any load on the blocks. Don't stack the blocks more than 2 blocks high. Putting point loads on concrete (cinder blocks) is a horrible idea and will cause early failure. The soft wood distributes the loads over the full bearing surface of the block. Think about it. I've personally designed/built block retaining walls well over 30' high. Not a problem as long as there are no point loads and you handle the lateral/overturning moments. That said, if you can't do that with confidence, just use jack stands or solid wood blocks. Chum lee
Chum lee 01/13/20 01:20pm Tech Issues
RE: Compartment Door Slam Latches

Regular shots of silicon spray on the handle pivots and latches helps the mechanisms stay lubricated and last longer. Slamming the doors, . . . . . NOT! Chum lee There's a reason they are called 'slam latches', and are made to be closed without using the handle. As I have said before, when you close the door on mine, the striker pushes the bolt UP AWAY from the cam. The cam is there only to move the bolt up with the handle. Do what works for you. Thank you and yes, I'm very familiar with how the handles/strikers/latches work. Slam latches? I guess we went to different schools. Who is this "they" you refer to? (rhetorical question) Chum lee
Chum lee 01/10/20 03:58pm General RVing Issues
RE: Compartment Door Slam Latches

Regular shots of silicon spray on the handle pivots and latches helps the mechanisms stay lubricated and last longer. Slamming the doors, . . . . . NOT! Chum lee
Chum lee 01/10/20 11:49am General RVing Issues
RE: DeWalt 20V portable air compressor

Does anyone have experience with this air compressor, I am trying to downsize from my big heavy pancake compressor for traveling. IME/IMO you would be best sticking with what you already have (120 Volt pancake style) and finding/making a place to stow it. For RV's, you need higher pressures than for most automotive applications. The tires are larger and require more air volume at higher pressures. I've yet to see a rechargeable portable/compressor that is up to the task for anything other than a once in a lifetime emergency. So far I have melted two different 12 volt compressors when using them on my Class A which requires 90 psi. I bought one compressor at Walmart for +-$40.00. It said on the box it was capable of generating "up to" 140 psi. When I returned it to customer service a week after buying it, the clerk asked me, "Sir, what is your reason for the return? I smiled, opened the box (a burned plastic/electrical smell wafted over the clerk) and I said, "I don't think this is going to work out." The clerk cringed at the smell, . . . . . . . then returned my money. NEXT! Enough said. Chum lee
Chum lee 01/08/20 05:25pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Requesting solution from knowledgeable RV.NET collective

IMO, if you hook up two 12 volt batteries in parallel, when new and roughly factory equivalent, they will mimic each other. As you charge/discharge them, one battery will tend to do more of the work and take more of the wear over time because of the way they are wired and their inherent internal resistance. As you discharge/recharge them, one battery will charge more than the other because it is working harder and sees more charge. (or less depending on which battery gets the higher charge voltage) That's why, in general, 2 simple 6 volt batteries wired in series (to make 12 volts) are normally used in simple applications. With more than 2 batteries wired in series/parallel, things can get more complicated. Edit: That said, if you want the cheapest solution, just get a dirt cheap 12 volt automotive battery. If you don't boon dock and are always connected to shore power, IMO it's all you need. Google: "The 12 volt side of life" if you want a more detailed explanation. Chum lee
Chum lee 01/08/20 01:34pm Tech Issues
RE: Rt 99 Thru Bakersfield

I used to regularly drive I5/I99 both ways from San Diego to Redding in a 4 door sedan. Both routes ALWAYS have lots of HEAVY long haul truck traffic. IMO/IME, the quality of the roads can change from decent to horrible in just a few weeks and stay that way for months before CALTRANS gets out to do repairs. Often they get so bad that CALTRANS has to let major contracts to repave/repair the roads. The combination of the constant heavy trucks and high rains wreaks havoc on the aging roadways. When water gets under the roadways (through cracks) and heavy trucks pound the surfaces, it pumps the base out from under the pavement and everything goes down the drain in short order. Chum lee
Chum lee 01/04/20 02:52pm General RVing Issues
RE: Down a truly rough road in my class C?

One important factor which I learned as a pilot. Time changes everything, mostly due to weather. Don't assume the road will be in the same condition on your way out as it was on your way in. The weight of your vehicle may also change, . . . . . significantly, which affects how it handles in the muck. Chum lee That said, we made the trip to Chaco Canyon off I-40 @ Thoreau. (Hwy 371) When we got to the dirt portion, (Hwy 57) it had just been graded the day before. The dirt road was smoother and in better condition than many paved roads in New Mexico. It rained for two days while at the canyon. The way out was passable but treacherous. Several hours with the power washer later, no worse for wear. Talk about caked on mud, . . . no, . . . . . lets not!
Chum lee 01/03/20 01:24pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: ONAN 5500 @ high elevations

Turn the carb adjustment to 10,000 and enjoy, Yep! That's what it's for. Just don't forget to turn it back down to the proper altitude when appropriate. There is a danger of overheating/damaging the engine if you forget and don't. Chum lee
Chum lee 01/03/20 12:52pm Tech Issues
RE: Genny ok in ABQ?

When I bought my used 99 F53 Class A in 2011, the previous owner let the generator, a 4k gas Onan, sit for almost a year in Mesa, Arizona. The generator would start, but ran like ****, then it would die. With coaxing, it would eventually run, but, it would surge with changes in load. The now previous owner agreed to pay and have a mobile RV tech look at it. The tech said the carburetor was all gummed up. He replaced it with a new carb. +-$700 later and it was purring like new again. The generator then had +-300 hours on it. Now it's over 1,800. Just my experience. Chum lee
Chum lee 01/02/20 06:26pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Kwikee Stairs failure rate

Anyone who has had an RV for any length of time eventually has issues with their Kwikee electric stairs. At the age of your RV, you do seem to be unlucky. I try to minimize the number or times the stairs extend/retract, when possible. Hitting a fixed object with the stairs extended WILL easily bend/jamb them which leads to early failures of the drive mechanism. The stairs live in a hostile wet and dirty place and regularly get sprayed with road debris so keeping them clean and lubed is always a plus. If you can shield the electrical components/connectors from moisture, that can only help. Hopefully your luck is about to change. Chum lee
Chum lee 12/31/19 03:14pm General RVing Issues
RE: Class C vs Class A - Length

IMO, the biggest difference in interior space between a Class A and a Class C (gasser) of similar lengths is that the floor/ceiling space in a Class A is mostly all on the same level except for the engine bay cover and the door steps. Not so with the Class C. In a Class C, the lower driver and front passenger floor space (and less headroom due to the overhead bunk) causes that space to be much less flexible which is very important functionally. Of course, various models differ due to their design. Chum lee
Chum lee 12/30/19 01:57pm Class C Motorhomes
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