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 > Your search for posts made by 'Chum lee' found 372 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: 20 year old hoses

Wow! That rig looks, . . . . . reeeeallly nice! Chum lee
Chum lee 11/14/19 03:22pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Alternator

To a certain extent, your chassis alternator output (voltage and current) is dependent on the current state of charge of your chassis battery(s) and the loads placed on the alternator by the VEHICLES electrical system. If your chassis battery is fully charged, expect the alternator output to be a fraction of it's maximum rated capacity until the existing loads drop the charge in the chassis battery. Ford engineers designed their charging system that way to improve fuel mileage and to prevent people from doing what they want to do . . . . . charge the batteries in their camper with the chassis alternator. Chum lee I not talking about a pickup truck here ... but with respect to our small Class C motorhome on an E450 V10 chassis with "only" a 130 amp alternator: The V10 engine battery I have installed is an overkill Ford OEM battery model intended for their diesel trucks. The coach has two 115 AH Group 31 AGM batteries wired in balanced parallel. Whenever the V10 is running, the two coach batteries and one engine battery are all connected together in direct parallel via a high amperage continuous duty 12V solenoid. I know this because I have an engine battery readout voltmeter mounted on the dash and a coach battery readout voltmeter also mounted on the dash - and they both read nearly the same all the time - which means that all three batteries are connected in direct parallel when the engine is running. There appears to be no isolation diodes involved between the engine battery and coach batteries. I've also mounted on the dash an ammeter that reads the current going into, or out of, the coach batteries. After drycamping a bit, whenever the coach batteries are down to around 50% (12.0-12.1V reading on their dash voltmeter), I sometimes start up the V10 and idle it for an hour or so to conveniently and very quietly to partially top up the two coach batteries. The coach battery ammeter (on the dash) will sometimes spike to as high as 80 amps at first (V10 idling), and then gradually taper down as the coach batteries are being boost and bulk charged via the 130 amp Ford alternator. The voltage output of the alternator (as indicated by the voltmeter on the dash) will start out at 14.X volts at first, and then gradually taper down as the coach batteries charge up. So the bottom line is ... yes, some stock engine alternator systems can indeed be used to charge camper battery systems just fine. As a sidenote, the performance curve for our V10's 130 amp Ford alternator indicates that it can indeed output around 70-80 amps at engine idle RPM speeds, so it's performing as expected ... at least in our 2005 E450 based motorhome. Even though the engine itself may be idling at only 550-650 RPM, the pulley system powering the alternator spins it a lot faster. In order for an engine alternator to output high currents at low engine speeds, the engine merely has to be able to delivery enough horsepower at idle so as to spin the alternator at whatever RPM the alternator's power vs RPM curve requires for the desired amperage output in the application. It may be difficult to locate the power-vs-rpm graphs for many alternators, however. Yes, my '99 F53 (V10) does the same thing and on some mornings I often run the engine at idle to put a little charge (little is the key word) in the house batteries. As theoldwizard1 mentioned, the newer vehicles are more sensitive to charging conditions. The problem is, when idling with the alternator putting out close to the maximum voltage/current, even though the alternator is over driven, the cooling fan on the alternator needs to be able to dissipate the additional heat generated with the engine at idle. Since the idle is stabilized, available horsepower isn't the issue, . . . . IMO, cooling is. I'm not saying that it will fail overnight, it just gets hotter. Heat kills, . . . . . more heat kills more quickly. Chum lee
Chum lee 11/14/19 03:14pm Tech Issues
RE: Do you think a front cargo rack is too dangerous?

"An engineer friend saw it yesterday and said he thought it was extremely dangerous, because at freeway speed it could potentially set up a wobble, twist itself off, and end up underneath the front of the van. And, as he pointed out, that would be much worse than a rear rack coming off and dragging." So it would be OK if the rack (or it's contents) fell off the back and ended up under someone else's vehicle? As long as you don't know about it, . . . . no problem? Hummmmmmmmmmmmmm. At least if it's on the front of your vehicle, you can keep an eye on it. Chum lee
Chum lee 11/14/19 02:51pm Tech Issues
RE: Alternator

To a certain extent, your chassis alternator output (voltage and current) is dependent on the current state of charge of your chassis battery(s) and the loads placed on the alternator by the VEHICLES electrical system. If your chassis battery is fully charged, expect the alternator output to be a fraction of it's maximum rated capacity until the existing loads drop the charge in the chassis battery. Ford engineers designed their charging system that way to improve fuel mileage and to prevent people from doing what they want to do . . . . . charge the batteries in their camper with the chassis alternator. Chum lee
Chum lee 11/13/19 01:29pm Tech Issues
RE: Water line burst

1. Get a quality regulator and always use it. 2. Always turn water off when you leave the campsite. Agreed. Never assume the campground water pressure will be consistent. Many RV parks have their own well(s). Deeper wells often have two stage pumps to get water to the surface with sufficient pressure and volume. During times of high demand, both pumps may operate. (filling the campgrounds main storage tank for example) If/When a major draw suddenly shuts off, a huge pressure spike propagates throughout the system and the system pressure may stay elevated for a few minutes. If you lack the appropriate pressure regulating ability and your RV system is "iffy" you may experience fractured pipes. Hopefully you (or someone else) will be around if/when this happens. I've personally seen this happen several times. The RV park owner told me about their two stage well pumps. Now you know. Chum lee
Chum lee 11/13/19 01:00pm Tech Issues
RE: Class A Fulltimer freeze concerns

I'm a genetic fair weather sissy so I avoid freezing by leaving the region before the cold weather sets in. If that's not possible for you, there are some economical longitudinally split open/closed cell foam insulation tubes for most smaller diameter PVC/copper pipes available in most home centers. They won't hold a candle to a week long polar vortex, but, they will give your external rigid exposed pipes a few more degrees/hours protection if you KNOW freezing is going to be an issue. Chum lee
Chum lee 11/12/19 05:35pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Dirt

I like the added insulation that carpet on the floor provides in my Class A. My feet get cold easily. That said, I never vacuum it. I only shampoo it about once every three weeks with hot water and no soap. Using two exterior floor mats, one with brushes and one with felt helps keep a lot of dirt out of the MH to start with. RV's see a LOT of in/out traffic in a very confined space. Combining that with cooking/washing smoke/vapors is a recipe for rapid filth accumulation no matter what the floor surface. In short, if you use it regularly, RV's get dirty real quick. I'm looking for a deal on some quality washable, easily removable carpet pads to mount on my kwikee stairs for next season. Chum lee
Chum lee 11/12/19 02:30pm General RVing Issues
RE: 20 year old hoses

Inspect, Inspect ---- and change as required. all new hoses will set you back $3000 or more. We commonly see 50 years on Equipment with no problem. Agreed! But, inspect for what? Make sure your pressure cap is functional, if applicable. Flexible hoses, both coolant and hydraulic, typically fail from the inside out. So, you can't see the internal cracks in the hose when it's beginning to fail because the failure points are on the inside. (unless you can see physical damage on the outside) Internal cracks will eventually show themselves externally. When you inspect your hoses you should do it when they are hot and pressurized. Generally you will see bulging near the clamped portions at the ends, at flex points, or, at the swagged fittings for hydraulic hoses. Of course, leaks/seeping/precipitate of any kind should receive immediate attention. If tightening the clamp doesn't cure the leak, you should replace the hose. If the hose is bulging throughout its length when hot/pressurized, it's done no matter what it looks like. At 30,000 miles and considering the age of your MH, it has been sitting cold/covered more than 99% of its life. If you are using factory recommended fluids and changing them regularly, chances are you are fine. If it makes you feel better, you can buy the hoses that run hot and carry them with you. Then you'll be prepared. IMO, you should buy OEM quality hoses if you decide to change them. This is not a place to save a buck on parts. Chum lee
Chum lee 11/12/19 02:11pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: house battery question

when checking the water in the house batteries, is it necessary to disconnect the batteries to do so. if not, does the electricity need to be disconnected first. thank you in advance for your help. Unless you can't access the battery tops in their mounted location (to move/remove/inspect them) then NO don't disconnect them unless you have a specific reason to do so. In fact, disconnecting them would INCREASE the chances of causing sparks/shorts which could be . . . . . . problematic, . . . . if charging/discharging gasses are present in your battery bay. Prior to working/servicing the batteries, DO shut off all major loads (including the engine, generator, and shore power) and any chargers. Clean up (neutralize) any spillage when you're done. Water with baking soda works great, and, it's cheap. Chum lee
Chum lee 11/08/19 12:02pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Cummins 5 year old synthetic oil with 1000 miles - change ?

Normally I'm not a fan of testing oil, (in lieu of changing it) but in this case, he could spend +-$40.00 and have the oil tested by a lab to see if it's fit for continued use. Or there's the oil blotter test using a clean white business card for free. https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/499/blotter-spot-method Chum lee
Chum lee 11/07/19 07:55pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Must read before you buy (Long)

“After weekends, many may be overly tired.“ Really? Any proof? “The problem is that manufacturers these days...” Back in them olden days everything was wunderfull. When I worked for a Ford Dealer back in the 70's, all the old guys (read: highly experienced) said to avoid cars that were built on Monday, . . . . if you can. It could be urban legend, it could be truth, I never saw any evidence of that. During my time, ALL new American cars sucked, it didn't matter what day they were built. It's been a while since frustrated customers practiced the bad habit of setting their new cars on fire in the service drive and leaving. I think the American car manufacturers got the message. But, IMO, they are still paying for that. It gave every foreign car manufacturer a foot in the American door. Read Lee Iacocca's book about Ford and Chrysler Corps. Shocking! IMO, the new motorhome industry is still struggling to get out of the 70's. Chum lee
Chum lee 11/01/19 12:32pm General RVing Issues
RE: Class A. Wheel size

I don’t know if this is the place for this question. I am a year away from upgrading from class C Ford 29 ft to 31 to 35 foot class A. The new Ford A chassis should be out by then with the bigger engine and 10 speed trans. My first question is the bigger engine going to be a V 10? Second is opinion from current owners that have had both 19.5 and 22.5 tires. I am excavating contractor and have always gone with biggest wheels possible. Problem I have is most 32 footers are 19.5 rubber ( but is my preferred size for coach. Or the 35’s with the 22.5 Thanks in advance for you opinions Seedhay I have 19.5 tires on a 33 foot motorhome with 2 slide outs and never a issue with the tires, as to weight carrying also no issue, my 6 tires carry more weight than the 20,500 lb chassis does. Also a plus for 19.5 is you can carry a full mounted spare and they cost less.. I'd suggest that you look at the broader picture. It's not just about the load that the tires can take. The tires transfer their load to another surface. (it's called the roadway, whatever that surface might be) When you have smaller tires, they must transfer higher unit loads to the surface they are in contact with. That means that they have the potential to overload the contact surface. Your potential to get stuck on soft surfaces goes up the more highly your tires are loaded and the softer the surface is. There are many other factors (benefits) to larger tires/wheels but that is beyond the scope of this discussion. Chum lee
Chum lee 11/01/19 12:00pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Pop goes the water heater!

So you say that you full time in your fiver. Does that mean that you keep the water heater hot 24/7/365? If you have high mineral content in your water AND the anode rod still looks like new, AND the new water heater rusted out in 5 years, I'd guess you have something else going on that you need to figure out before you destroy another water heater. Did you test the pressure relief valve? Is the water heater grounded properly? Chum lee
Chum lee 11/01/19 11:46am Tech Issues
RE: Is it a fiver or class a or c?

Technically it would be a class C. It also looks to be somewhere around fifteen feet tall, which would be problematic on many fronts (both legal and practical). It looks a little light in the front end and its DEFINITELY way too top heavy. This in not a vehicle for snow covered mountain roads with low clearance tunnels. I'll walk and use my snow shoes, . . . . thank you! Chum lee
Chum lee 10/30/19 01:41pm General RVing Issues
RE: Class A. Wheel size

Seedhay: This is link to an outdated (2018) brochure for the F53. There is a newer one available somewhere, I just cant remember where it is. Someone else? The update discusses the specs of the new V8 gas engine and transmission. https://www.ford.com/commercial-trucks/stripped-chassis/models/f53-motorhome/ Chum lee
Chum lee 10/28/19 04:18pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Class A. Wheel size

"I am excavating contractor and have always gone with biggest wheels possible. Problem I have is most 32 footers are 19.5 rubber (but is my preferred size for coach. Or the 35’s with the 22.5" Of course the larger wheel/tire combinations are more money than the 19.5" but IMO, you'll never regret the increased load capacity and wider choice of serious truck tires available in the 22.5" range. Class A gassers in the 35' range with 19.5" wheels are always going to be close, if not above max GVWR with minimal cargo and full fluids, especially with multiple slides. Even with the shorter chassis Class A F53, the 22.5 aluminum wheels are a factory option, it's just a fairly expensive option that most buyers pass on. Chum lee
Chum lee 10/28/19 02:11pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Slow/ No Cranking

Charley 67: I've been down your road many times and it is almost always a problem with the starter being shot or a low quality "life time" guaranteed rebuilt unit from an "xyzzy Auto Parts Store". This is, of course, assuming your battery isn't shot. Bite the bullet and buy a new quality built starter or a Ford factory rebuilt unit. Make sure, of course, that it's actually a Ford manufactured rebuilt and not some off branded thing that Ford sells. It's going to cost more but it'll be worth it. Just wanted to also say that you bought the rv used and the PO might have had starter issues previously and changed the starter and replaced it with some low quality unit. Yep! I've seen this too many times. "Lifetime Guaranteed" whitebox rebuilt no name parts with a "lifetime" of a week or less. Oh sure, they'll gladly exchange the part for another piece of junk just like the last one. But, whose time and aggravation gets spent replacing the part, . . . . . again, and . . . . . . again. No thanks. The bitterness of poor quality lingers long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten. Chum lee
Chum lee 10/27/19 02:13pm Tech Issues
RE: Slow/ No Cranking

It is possible that your chassis battery can have a dead/weak cell when at rest (it still generates rated voltage) and fail the voltage/current test(s) horribly when you put a load on it. What is the battery voltage when you crank the engine? It should stay above about 9.5 volts, when cranking, if the battery is fully charged and working properly. If it drops below that, consider having the battery load tested. Auto Zone (and others) will usually do this for you for free if you can get there. How old is the battery? Is it the correct battery (size) for the application? Of course, as others have mentioned, cleaning all the connections is the next step if the battery maintains voltage. Look for overheated/fried wires in the starting system. Chum lee
Chum lee 10/26/19 01:44pm Tech Issues
RE: Famed Durham NC bridge will no longer kill as many ACs

Well I am pretty sure if the railroad could raise it higher they would. If you read the article it says they can't because of the train station. The city could dig the street lower and get some more height that way. I agree. For some reason the city doesn’t want to go out of its way to help the driving public. They could lower the road at least a foot! I've been involved design wise with Civil Engineers for years. It's not as easy as it seems. There may be a variety of subsurface utilities (water, sewer, storm drain, cable, electrical, fiber optics, natural gas, petroleum, etc.) under the roadway that are very difficult to move. There may also be challenging soil conditions present. Without KNOWING, it's really silly to speculate and propose what seems to be obvious solutions. Chum lee
Chum lee 10/24/19 02:12pm General RVing Issues
RE: New Class A owner. Need some advice

You sound like a kid in a candy store. (that's a compliment) You'll generally find that most of the owners manuals for the appliances are available online with the model number and manufacturers name. Fleetwood/Southwind won't be much help for repair information other than to show you how to use the appliances and cursory troubleshooting. IMO it helps to understand that the chassis/suspension/engine/ transmission was built by Ford and the coach was built/assembled by Fleetwood, totally different companies. Originally your coach came with a satchel of information containing all the owners manuals. It may or may not still be in the MH. If it is, . . . . . read it! If not, google is your friend. Chum lee
Chum lee 10/24/19 01:50pm Class A Motorhomes
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