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 > Your search for posts made by 'Chum lee' found 133 matches.

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RE: onan generator synthetic oil filter

I have a onan 5500 generator, model #5.5HGJAB-1038K.I am trying to get a part # for a synthetic oil filter so that I can run mobil 1 synthetic oil in my generator. Im hoping someone has already found a good part# and can share that with me. not having any luck with cross referances. So, . . . . where is it that you got this "valuable information" that if you run/use synthetic oils, . . . . . you need a special synthetic oil filter? (hint: in this application, you don't need synthetic oils, the manufacturer (Onan) suggest this) IMO, . . . . this is just . . . laughable. (well, . . . . when you study/understand the engineering/chemical information readily available today) Nice try! Chum lee
Chum lee 04/18/21 06:52pm Tech Issues
RE: STOLEN Tiger Adventure Vehicle

Where was it stolen from? Chum lee
Chum lee 04/10/21 07:14pm General RVing Issues
RE: Class C that's easy to fix?

I am DIY person and looking for a class C that's easy to fix, by that I mean it has a truck-like, easily accessible engine bay. Think F250 engine bay and you got it. I had an older F250HD and everything was accessible, spark plugs were no issue at all. One could do water pump, belts, mostly anything. Now I never got inside the motor nor did any tranny work. I mean situations where the radiator hose bursts in the middle of nowhere, or a belt. I get concerned about these van-type designs where repairs become considerably more difficult. As half the engine is not accessible. Whenever you talk DIY on a truck chassis, IMO, it's ALWAYS about having the right tools for the job because of the size/weight/time. (IMO, everything is easier when you do) Look at any professional commercial truck repair facility. The Pro's ALWAYS have pneumatic/hydraulic/electric repair tools including lifts, pits, hoists, compressors, jacks, presses, pullers, pumps, special wrenches, machine tools, mills, drill presses, lathes, power washers, solvent tanks, welders, appropriate tempered/sheltered space, etc., the list goes on and on. As a DIY'er, (Now, I'm one too) on the road, most often, you don't have the benefits of all those tools. That doesn't mean you can't "Git 'er done" . . . . just that it will be more difficult with the limited array tools you "DO" have. IMO, with patience, persistence, creativity, help from a few friendly hands, factory service manuals, a little cash, experience, internet, . . . . you can do just about anything cheaply, . . . just not as fast as the pro's. So, . . . . if you're in a hurry, . . . IGNORE THIS POST. Chum lee
Chum lee 04/10/21 07:05pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Aux Start to Boost Cranking Amps

I agree with everyone--yes, it is okay to do that. However, there's a pretty good chance that pressing the button isn't actually doing anything with the engine running, since a very common setup is to use the aux start solenoid as the battery combiner/isolator relay and have it engaged whenever the engine is running. Yes. I agree with Drew, AND with Doug. AND, . . . . the chassis battery, AND coach batteries are, most likely, ALREADY CONNECTED (without pressing the AUX switch) since the (chassis) engine is running. HOWEVER, the OP doesn't state the RPM that the engine is running which WILL have a significant effect on the available amps from the chassis alternator. At idle, with low batteries, IMO, the alternator is only generating enough amps for basic electrical functions. (running the Power Gear electric leveling system ISN'T one of them) Revving the engine for a few minutes could/may help. Recharging the coach/chassis batteries will. Chum lee
Chum lee 04/06/21 06:18pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Cooling external fuel pump

Changing the design, IMO, is opening a can of worms. (chances are you will lose that bet) Your choice. Chum lee Thank you for the excellent education. No problem. If you'll notice in your E450, . . . as soon as you run out of fuel, the engine stops, then the fuel pump relay cuts out the fuel pump. That's not an engineering accident. No advice here, but IMO, it's best not to run low/out on fuel. Chum lee
Chum lee 03/21/21 09:48pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Cooling external fuel pump

The pump failed Monday afternoon and left me broke down, this pump was less than a year old (replacement pump was was a warranty exchange), not near the exhaust or anything hot, except for the street! Anybody else ever try this What do you think Here's what I think. Just a few questions for you. Why do you think the engineers at Ford (after building 100,000's of vehicles like yours (over 100 years) made the engineering decisions that they did? (submersing the main fuel injection pump in the fuel tank (IMO, using fuel for cooling purposes)) I suspect that MrWizard inherited this "condition" from the previous owner. How about offering a solution other than putting a pump back in the tank? How is that even done? If a new tank and pump are needed it may cost a pretty penny. A new fuel tank, or dropping, cleaning the existing tank in a Class A F53, IS labor intensive/expensive, . . . . but possible. Just a few thoughts from the mind of an unpaid 67 year old retired experienced engineer. I know "a little bit" about pumps. That said, I have no idea if Mr. Wizard (or anyone else) pulled the old failed fuel pump out of the existing fuel tank, (I doubt it) what went wrong with it, or what the fuel tank pump inlet, or interior condition looks like. I can tell you from years of direct personal experience with rotary cell/turbine submersible fuel pumps that that they are designed to have a slightly positive inlet pressure. NOT A PARTIAL VACUUM which can create flow instability, cavitation, overheating, etc. If the original failed fuel pump is still in place, or the fuel tank vent(s) or primary fuel filter/sock (if it exists) is (partially) blocked, that will be the case and the new (auxiliary) pump will work harder than it was designed to do, leading to current overload, overheating, and premature failure(s). I DON'T KNOW, I'm guessing here (trying to be helpful) with little to no initial background/photos information. I'm not pretending like I know. My initial instinct (based on 5 years of automotive technical training, 5 years of automotive/machine shop experience, 5 years of engineering school (graduating with highest honors) (the rest is direct field experience)) is NOT to put a Bandaid over a Bandaid. FIX THE PROBLEM. Sorry it's not the answer "you" guys want to hear. Do what you want. Yes, I agree, there are plenty of parts suppliers out there. IMO, for critical needed parts your best bet is at the Ford dealer or certified OEM parts suppliers. Changing the design, IMO, is opening a can of worms. (chances are, as the new design team engineer, you will lose that bet) Your choice. Chum lee
Chum lee 03/21/21 06:49pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Cooling external fuel pump

The pump failed Monday afternoon and left me broke down, this pump was less than a year old (replacement pump was was a warranty exchange), not near the exhaust or anything hot, except for the street! Anybody else ever try this What do you think Here's what I think. Just a few questions for you. Why do you think the engineers at Ford (after building 100,000's of vehicles like yours (over 100 years) made the engineering decisions that they did? (submersing the main fuel injection pump in the fuel tank (IMO, using fuel for cooling purposes)) You, (IMO, for economy and ease of installation) have decided to change that. Now, for reasons that you mention, have had multiple recent fuel pump failures with YOUR designs on your 1997 F53 chassis which left you stranded. Maybe I'm the dummy here, but, . . . . my suggestion would be to put the vehicle back to the way it originally came from the factory using (OEM) factory parts. After all, . . . . how many years did it last before YOU . . . . . "fixed" it? Chum lee
Chum lee 03/19/21 06:35pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Interesting vehicle

Unless they modified the suspension, that thing will shake that TT to death, not to mention the people in the Cab! I like the idea though. Have you ever been in a trailer on a rough road...they shake a lot anyway. No, I haven't. (my Class A is bad enough) Why? In every state I've traveled, IMO, it's illegal/unsafe for humans to ride in a trailer. . . in motion, on the highway. Regardless, . . . IMO, it's not a bad idea, but, in this case, it's an economical prototype, not a successful production model. If it works for you, . . . hey, . . . why not? IMO, it has all the benefits of a travel trailer, but, FEW of the benefits of a Class A-B-C motor home. (no connection between the cab, chassis, and, the coach) Chum lee Never suggested it was a good idea to ride in a trailer. It is actually legal in some states with certain requirements but that's not the point of this thread so I suggest starting a different one if you want to discuss the issue. I don't think anyone was suggesting it was a production model or comparable to a Class A-B-C...that's not the point. Look up Overlanders, totally different expectations and this fits in with that pretty darn well but without some of the crazy prices. Please stop telling me what the point "isn't" in this thread, as if I don't know what it. . . . "is." (clearly, you think you do and I don't) Previously, I have agreed that the OP's referenced design is a good/economical idea as long as it meets the potential user needs. (I have no idea what they are) The vehicle referenced does not fit most accepted standard production norms. (Class A, B, C, TT, camper, popup, 5th Wheel, etc.) My suggestion to the OP is that they, "consider that" prior to their purchase, rather than to divert the thread. Nice try. You need not reply. Chum lee
Chum lee 03/17/21 08:19pm General RVing Issues
RE: Interesting vehicle

Unless they modified the suspension, that thing will shake that TT to death, not to mention the people in the Cab! I like the idea though. Have you ever been in a trailer on a rough road...they shake a lot anyway. No, I haven't. (my Class A is bad enough) Why? In every state I've traveled, IMO, it's illegal/unsafe for humans to ride in a trailer. . . in motion, on the highway. Regardless, . . . IMO, it's not a bad idea, but, in this case, it's an economical prototype, not a successful production model. If it works for you, . . . hey, . . . why not? IMO, it has all the benefits of a travel trailer, but, FEW of the benefits of a Class A-B-C motor home. (no connection between the cab, chassis, and, the coach) Chum lee
Chum lee 03/15/21 06:15pm General RVing Issues
RE: Ford V10 Triton Drivetrain

I was looking at documentation and I have a question about the Ford V10 drive train. Does anyone know if the entire drive train used in a Class C the same as a Class A? Do they have the same transmission? We are looking at Class As and are wondering if we were to buy an older Class C would it have the same drive train as a Class A from the same year. My first response to your question would be NO. THE ENTIRE DRIVE TRAIN IS NOT THE SAME. There are hundreds/thousands of minor/major engineering changes between vehicles but, the basic design framework is similar. (to keep it economical in design/production) For example, oil coolers/specifications, radiators, shift points, clutch apply pressures/rates, torque converter stall/lockup speeds, exhaust emissions, fuel mileage, primary/final drive ratios, axle design, GVWR, wheelbase, tire/wheel size, springs, brakes, sway bars, soft/hard clutch materials, planetary gear set design, thrust bearings, oil seals, material specifications/strength, heat treatments, . . . . on, and on, and on differ between vehicles. E350, E450, F250. F350, F450, F53 . . . chassis specifications vary widely. If you REALLY want to know the answers to your questions, . . . . go to (graduate from) engineering school, pay an expert, or, search the internet. Find copies of the Ford parts fisch for the vehicles in question. Do your own comparison. IMO, it's a great question, but, . . . . nobody (of value) is going to do your homework for you. (for free) Many salvage yards have compatibility manuals which explain if a specific transmission/engine/differential (major component from one vehicle) will FIT into another, but no reports on how well/long it works. I've been doing this for 60 years. Chum lee
Chum lee 03/11/21 06:18pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: White Cap company

Anyone ever dealt with these folks.. out of Temecula CA? Tried ordering a generator and have zero response from anyone for 5 days. Whitecap is not just out of Temecula. They are a much bigger company than that. I (as a professional salesperson ) have successfully sold/delt to/with them for years. IMO, they are interested in sales in the 20, 30, 50 +++ thousand dollar range, . . . repeat wholesale market. IMO, . . . that's not you. Please don't take it personally, but, IMO, you could get a better deal at Home Depot or Lowe's. (not here) I don't speak for them. If you have fiends or buddies that work there (you play golf with them or take them out to lunch on a regular basis) you might get a better response. Chum lee
Chum lee 03/08/21 06:46pm Tech Issues
RE: 2001 Fleetwood Southwind Front-end sags

Hello Everyone, I have a 2001 Fleetwood Southwind. It is a nightmare to try and level. The front end sits pretty lower than is should. I replaced the airbags, but that did not solve the problem I am guessing the only thing it could be is the springs. Does anyone else have any other ideas? Thanks, Rob Content deleted as it offered no valve to the discussion.
Chum lee 02/25/21 11:06pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Check Engine Light...Going on 5 years & 20,000 miles...

"The K&N filter might have something to do with your issues. From what I understand, even slightly over-oiling the filter can lead to a fouled MAF sensor, which sounds like it may be one of the things contributing to your CEL codes." "When I bought this 2007 RV in 2015, it was 8 years old, but had only 9,000 miles on it. With so few miles at the time, my guess is that the prior owner never cleaned the K&N filter, and therefore, over-oiling of the filter isn't causing MAF sensor problems. Nevertheless, I will be cleaning the MAF sensor in case it's gotten dirty for any reason." The following is strictly MY opinion from years of direct experience. (with K & N air filters) Whenever I see a K & N air filter, I do the following: 1. Remove the K & N air filter and all related components. 2. Hold the filter above the appropriate sized waste receptacle. 3. Open your hand. 4. If the filter falls into the waste receptacle, go to step 6. 5. If the filter fails to fall into the waste receptacle, repeat steps 2 and 3 until it does, then go to step 6. 6. Replace the K & N filter with a new OEM pleated paper element. If the OEM airbox and other intake components have previously been removed/modified, you will need to replace them. Look for a vacuum leak in the intake system. When the engine is running rough (cold) spray propane (unlit from a torch) around all the vacuum hoses and connections on the engine. When the engine smooths out, you found the leak. Or, it's sufficiently warm to run smoothly. In that case you'll need to start again later, . . . . when the engine is cold. Chum lee
Chum lee 02/22/21 01:34pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Ev charging in camps expectation of availability, cost

As a business owner, (non clock puncher/salary earner) for most of my adult life, sometimes the cost of creating the appearance of doing well in spite of not doing well is worth the price. (of course, you cannot do this all the time long term, . . search Ponzi schemes) I don't decide for anyone else. For example, if you own an RV Park (which I don't) with a 50% vacancy rate, IMO, you have to do something to boost sales because you are losing money on ALL the vacant spaces which cost you a fixed amount per space per night. If you let someone with an RV&EV stay there and even though they use an excess amount (beyond your estimated amount) of electricity, it's still better than getting nothing at all from a vacant space. Tell them they have to stay three nights for the given rate. This is casino thinking. In retail, it's called a loss leader. Of course, . . . if you have a 10% or less vacancy rate, ALL THE TIME, none of this applies and you SHOULD charge a premium, especially for SPECIAL people. No freebies. Chum leeThat Casino is selling something other than the loss leader item. (Really? Ever heard of a jackpot or an all you can eat buffet?) The RV park is usually a one trick pony, that being site rental. When you start discounting to fill sites you often lose revenue since those people that would’ve paid full price are now only paying the discounted rate. Plus there is nothing that guarantees a single additional site rental if they did offer a lower rate or reduced electrical charges etc. IMO, the casino, as a business model, is not that different from an RV park. They sell space (rooms), services (hookups) and entertainment (neighbors). As I previously said, if you have a minimal vacancy rate, you have no need to offer freebies (discounts). You seem to fail in grasping that concept. It's when you DON'T, . . that's the problem. VOLUME! Have you ever heard people in the entertainment industry say, "There's no bad publicity!" Why? Because it generates buzz. (volume) In our current social media controlled society, people talk to each other all the time. IMO, when you gracefully accommodate potential good customers, they say nice things about you to others. (which further generates buzz/business) When you don't, . . . . well, . . . just look at this website. I'm not selling anything here. Initially, I hated most of my instructors in the school of "hard knocks", but eventually, . . . . I graduated, and . . . I'm still learning. We could go on and on comparing similarities/differences. Just do what works for you. Chum lee
Chum lee 02/17/21 10:10am General RVing Issues
RE: Ev charging in camps expectation of availability, cost

As a business owner, (non clock puncher/salary earner) for most of my adult life, sometimes the cost of creating the appearance of doing well in spite of not doing well is worth the price. (of course, you cannot do this all the time long term, . . search Ponzi schemes) I don't decide for anyone else. For example, if you own an RV Park (which I don't) with a 50% vacancy rate, IMO, you have to do something to boost sales because you are losing money on ALL the vacant spaces which cost you a fixed amount per space per night. If you let someone with an RV&EV stay there and even though they use an excess amount (beyond your estimated amount) of electricity, it's still better than getting nothing at all from a vacant space. Tell them they have to stay three nights for the given rate. This is casino thinking. In retail, it's called a loss leader. Of course, . . . if you have a 10% or less vacancy rate, ALL THE TIME, none of this applies and you SHOULD charge a premium, especially for SPECIAL people. No freebies. Chum lee
Chum lee 02/16/21 01:40pm General RVing Issues
RE: Be Thankful Your Ford V10 Is The 2-Valve Version

Yes, in spite of the "knowledge" you glean from the internet, the engineers at Ford actually do an exhaustive amount of engine research. Even so, they still make mistakes, . . . . just like everyone else. (What a surprise!) When they tell you to change the oil at 5000 miles, they don't just pull that info from their hind quarters. IMO, THEY MEAN IT! My 1999 F53 V10 is a 2 valve SOHC 275 Hp engine. At a later date (I'm not sure the exact year, you can look it up) it was upped to the 3 valve (315 Hp) and later to the 365 Hp engine. IMO, a phenomenal achievement for a truck engine without changing the displacement. As someone who worked in a Ford parts department, I can tell you that if you go to the Ford factory parts website, you can look up the part number for the oil pump on the V10, 2 valve vs. the 3 valve. If it's the same, the pump is the same. If it's different, the pumps are different in some way. (maybe oil pressure, maybe flow, I don't know) You can look at the Ford Factory Service Manuals for that. They (Ford) may also use a different oil pressure relief valve, which you can also look up. Not that hard. Chum lee
Chum lee 02/16/21 12:15pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: best way to test house batteries ?

I test with them separate. Then check each with the hydrometer after they set for an hour or so. I also check each cell with the volt meter after the hydrometer test. How do you check an individual cell with a volt meter? With most modern automotive wet cell batteries, . . . you can't. You can only check the total individual battery voltage. (without damaging the battery casing) With some older automotive wet cell batteries, like pre 1970's, you quite easily could. With some modern industrial wet cell batteries you still can. Tesla, Hybrid batteries (Li-ion), . . . you usually can. These batteries aren't generally used in RV applications. Chum lee
Chum lee 02/13/21 10:18am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Flush Transmission and Radiator?

Hey All, I have a 2006 Chateau Sport (Class C) Chevy Express RV with about 60,000 miles on it. The previous owner took pretty good care of it, and I picked it up with about 38,000 miles on it. It's always been stored in a storage unit and is in really nice condition inside and out. It's my first RV and I've loved owning it. Thanks in advance for your knowledge and advice. Sounds like you got a great deal. Read the factory owners manual. Find the service schedule. Do what it says. Use the factory specified fluids. It's that simple. Chum lee
Chum lee 02/11/21 04:54pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Is this doable or am I overlooking something??

It can be done and as others have stated - it is done but technically two power sources into one structure is a code violation. Well, . . . . , that's a pretty broad statement. I'm not sure what local codes you're referencing. You didn't mention any. Have you ever heard of . . . . . SOLAR PANELS on the power grid? (two separate power sources going into the same structure) You need not reply. Chum lee
Chum lee 02/01/21 07:10pm Tech Issues
RE: Is this doable or am I overlooking something??

For short term non-metered sites, they typically ask what your RV is (30 or 50 amp). Also, if you read the fine print on the rental agreement, it often mentions using additional outlets. So the owner would be very much within their rights to limit usage to a single outlet. You might get away with it but that doesn't make it right. When I bought my membership I was driving a 50 amp RV. the sales person promised me "Full Hookups" that's water, sewer, 50 amps and she even mentioned Wi-Fi. Thus I paid for 50 amps. and if the park only has 30's I'm going to use that 2nd cord. Well, . . . . you quoted me, and then posted what "others" said, but, . . . . I think I get your point. Chum lee
Chum lee 01/29/21 08:05pm Tech Issues
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