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 > Your search for posts made by 'Chum lee' found 327 matches.

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RE: gas station air pumps

A cheap Walmart inflator is rated for 130 psi. Just buy one and carry it with you. You'll alway need one. The other, to always check balanced air pressures on all your tires after several hundred miles or in severely fluctuating weather conditions. They say 130 psi, but if you need to add more than a couple pounds to a large tire you'll be waiting for a very long time (and the cheap inflators are not designed or rated for continuous usage). Even a standard car tire takes a decent length of time to inflate with one of them. The high pressure rating is perhaps useful with things like road bicycles where the volume of air required is pretty minimal. I carry a small 120V compressor, a Fini AirBoss, which does very nicely at putting air in the tires while not being too large or heavy. That's funny! As a "just in case" I bought one of those +130 psi 12 V. battery powered portable compressors (with clamps) at WalMart. Well, the need finally did arise and I wanted to top off my one of my 19.5" Goodyear G670's from 80 to 85 psi. After 10 minutes I was up a whopping 2 psi. That's when the brand new "compressor" started to struggle. First came the electrical burning smell, . . . . then the smoke. Then, . . . . it was all over. I returned the compressor the next day. No questions asked. Chum lee
Chum lee 03/20/19 06:08pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: gas station air pumps

Go to a "truck stop" to buy your fuel and air up, or, go to the truck lane in the gas stations where you fuel up. Generally, you'll find that the compressors used for auto applications are for just that. Autos. They lack the compressed air storage capacity to fill larger higher volume/pressure tires found on trucks. Or, buy your own compressor so you can fill elsewhere at your convenience. Chum lee
Chum lee 03/20/19 01:28pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: 22.5 tires $$$$ ?

Ya, I won’t by Michelin. They show signs of dry rot after 3 years. So those are out. Just part of owning a class A I guess. I was set on 22.5’s. But now I would consider 19.5’s over 22.5’s! You won't find any class A coaches with 19.5 tires built after 2009. Hummmmmmm! Ford might disagree with you on this, . . . . at least until 2019. See: https://www.ford.com/commercial-trucks/stripped-chassis/models/f53-motorhome/ Fords official 2018 factory specifications list 19.5" steel wheels as standard on the F-53. (Class A motor home chassis) It's true that 22.5" aluminum wheels are an option. Chum lee
Chum lee 03/19/19 06:33pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Salting a Battery--Ruined It?

If you trust Wiki as a credible source, see: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lead%E2%80%93acid_battery Go straight to the section on "Additives" (near the bottom of the page) if you are easily bored with science, facts, history, and other stuff like that. Chum lee
Chum lee 03/19/19 03:03pm Tech Issues
RE: Has this happened to you?

Twice at the same Pilot / FlyingJ station on the way to Salt Lake city from St. George. Tire shop next to station guy rides around in golf cart. That's funny! Same scam on me, different place. (along I-15 in southwestern Utah) We pull up for a bite at the rest/food/gas stop in my Class A F53. Two golf cart mounted hawks from the station across the street come right over. They diagnosed my bad shocks from across the street. I think they just look to see what they have in stock that will fit your vehicle. Then, like magic, that's just what I need. I thanked them for their deep concern and mentioned what wonderful caring services the Mormon Church is providing for us travelers in Utah. It must work regularly because their confidence and lack of shame was just . . . . . . . gushing. We left promptly buying nothing. Chum lee
Chum lee 03/16/19 01:13pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Hydraulic Hose leak.

Could the hole which is in the middle of the line be cut out and new 58 series fittings put each hose end and something put between to tie the lines together, "threaded Pipe or something else"? Good practice is to always replace the hose, not to repair it, unless it's a temporary fix, especially on high pressure hydraulics. If someone got the hose in there, there has to be a way to get it out. Why did the hose have a hole worn in it? Without knowing why, IMO, chances are you are installing a bandaid. Fix it right the first time. Chum lee
Chum lee 03/15/19 12:51pm Tech Issues
RE: Salting a Battery--Ruined It?

From 1st year college level general chemistry: A salt (there are many) like Magnesium Sulfate (Epsom Salt) is what is left over after you neutralize an acid, like sulfuric acid. (battery electrolyte) That's exactly what you DON'T want more of inside your wet cell batteries. The chemical engineers who have been designing and building wet cell batteries for over a hundred years all know that. I guess everyone else didn't get the memo! Chum lee
Chum lee 03/14/19 03:15pm Tech Issues
RE: ? Heat & Air on Ford Chassis?

Does Ford motor provide enough heat/air for comfort or do you have to run the RV heat/air for comfort? Ford does NOT provide HVAC in class A motorhomes. All Ford provides is the compressor, condenser & receiver/dryer. The rest of the components are provided by the coach builders. Richard In some (not all) cases Ford also provides the dash mounted control panel and some of the related wiring/vacuum system for the chassis HVAC on the F53 Class A. Chum lee Can you elaborate on which cases that Ford provides the controls on an F53 chassis. How would Ford controls interface with Evans Tempcon or Denso HVAC systems? Inquiring minds want to know. Richard Hi. I have a 1999 Southwind F53. The HVAC controls (along with the other dash instruments) are supplied by Ford with the F53 stripped chassis package. I've worked on many Ford products over the years as well as working in a Ford (dealership) parts department so I am familiar with what the Ford parts "look" like as well as Fords part numbering system. Evans and Denso may buy their HVAC controls from the same manufacturer (I don't know) as Ford. As Doug has previously mentioned, various RV coach manufacturers throughout the years have used different HVAC systems so they may opt to use different dash controls so each application could vary. Suffice to say, if it looks like it came from a Ford automobile/truck, it probably was supplied by Ford. There are others out there. Delco for one was popular years ago. Sorry I cant be more specific to all applications, but if you look at the dash controls and find the part number, (usually embossed on the part) if it starts with a 4 digit prefix like "E9TZ" or a similar format with 4 digits, the first being a letter, the second being a number, the third being a letter, and the last usually being a "Z," usually its a Ford part. For the example E9TZ, the part number would mean that the part was originally designed for an E meaning 1980's decade, 9 meaning the year 1989, T meaning truck, and Z is usually an undifferentiated place holder. So a Ford typical part number would be the format WXYZ-77777-Z It's more likely that the coach builders AC supplier builds their system components to interface with Ford (and the coach builder) rather than the other way around since Ford builds the base chassis in the case of the F53. Generally, the manufacturer with the most money makes the rules regarding the components. But not always, . . . . and times change. Remember when computers were all IBM compatible? Nobody gives a cr*p about IBM in the personal computer market anymore. Chum lee
Chum lee 03/13/19 05:07pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Mileage on used class A

The key to any MH purchase is how it was maintained while it was being used and how it was kept when not in use. IMO, this is the key to your future RV happiness. That, it's current condition, and making sure that there was no previous substantial accident damage. Everything else is small stuff. Chum lee
Chum lee 03/13/19 01:35pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Starting Issue

Check the most simple things first. Check/clean your chassis battery cable terminals where they connect to the chassis battery. Check the water level(s), if applicable. Also clean the house battery cables in a similar way. Don't overthink it. A multi-meter is your friend. Chum lee
Chum lee 03/13/19 01:04pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: ? Heat & Air on Ford Chassis?

Does Ford motor provide enough heat/air for comfort or do you have to run the RV heat/air for comfort? Ford does NOT provide HVAC in class A motorhomes. All Ford provides is the compressor, condenser & receiver/dryer. The rest of the components are provided by the coach builders. Richard In some (not all) cases Ford also provides the dash mounted control panel and some of the related wiring/vacuum system for the chassis HVAC on the F53 Class A. Chum lee
Chum lee 03/13/19 12:55pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Rotors and Brake Pads

Unless you have specific issues with your brakes, I would stick with the OEM pads and rotors. Just because a rotor is cross drilled/slotted/dimpled (whatever really) and designated as "high performance" and/or "racing" doesn't imply that it will work better with your specific application. (unless you are racing your Class A RV) Chum lee
Chum lee 03/09/19 01:55pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Mixing two oil wieghts

Think about it. How many people add a quart of oil (or more) to their crankcase having no idea of what oil (brand, age, mileage, type, viscosity, etc.) is already in there? Just be close. It happens all the time. Where are the broken engines? They don't exist. Mix the oils and be done with it. Next time, buy the correct oil and change it per the schedule. Spend your time/worries on more important things. Google "BITOG" if you insist on obsessing about it. IMO, you can spend 1,000 hours at BITOG and know less about oil than you do now! Chum lee
Chum lee 03/08/19 11:57am Tech Issues
RE: New Ford F53 Chassis

They could of at least put aluminum wheels on it! Ford will be happy to put aluminum wheels on your new F53 based motorhome, but, in most cases it's a special order extra cost option that most new owners opt out of. https://www.ford.com/commercial-trucks/stripped-chassis/models/f53-motorhome/ Chum lee
Chum lee 03/07/19 03:17pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: I got lied to...

"I was extremely happy with the warranty, and never had a problem with any covered repairs. But I hate being lied to." There are at least two sides to every business deal. Since you were happy, (your words) I'm assuming the warranty was of value to you. Now, what about the warranty company? How do you think THEY felt about your value to them? If they broke even, or, lost money on the deal, that might have something to do with how you are being treated now. Just a thought. Chum lee
Chum lee 03/06/19 02:19pm General RVing Issues
RE: New Ford F53 Chassis

Quote from article: "In addition, the 7.3-liter uses an all-new cam-in-block, overhead-valve architecture . . . . ." I'm not sure what is "all-new" about that cam/valve configuration. Much less complicated, yes, fewer parts, yes, but, time will tell what tricks the Ford engineers have up their sleeve to get more out of less. Back to the 2 valve design on the F53 also? Interesting. Chum lee
Chum lee 03/06/19 02:05pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: New Class A Buyer with Questions

Think of NADA as a starting point for insurance/finance/regulatory agencies to quickly assess a value as far as their business concerns go, not yours. As stated earlier, every vehicle is worth what it sells for at the time/location it sells. No more, no less. Every sale is unique. The price/value of any specific vehicle is determined by you at the time of purchase. No one else. Use that power wisely! Chum lee
Chum lee 03/05/19 03:19pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Kiwkie step Model ? 1997 fleetwood bounder

Being you have 1997, if you don't have the updated electronic control box, (as Doug mentioned) you may have issues getting the new motor/gearbox to work properly with the old electronic control box and door switch. Per the manufacturers recommendations: I replaced my series 32 gearbox/control box (1999 model Series 32) and I bought the entire OEM update kit including the motor/gearbox, control box, fasteners, door switch, and wiring harness. Works like a charm, first time. Chum lee
Chum lee 03/04/19 01:06pm Tech Issues
RE: Bike Hauling Question

As someone who has been an avid cyclist all my life and owned several expensive road/mountain bikes, I would NEVER strap my bike to the outside of my RV, . . . ever. My current bike stays inside and goes where I sleep when I'm not sleeping there. Covered, on the bed, out of sight, out of mind. Here's why. IMO, America is filled with people who have substance abuse issues. An expensive bicycle is one of the best solutions to their problem. Think about it. Walk up and take possession of your bicycle, then ride it directly to their connect. "Hey mister drug dealer, I'm hurting and I don't have any money but I have this nice bike. Can you fix me up?" (your bike immediately goes on Craigslist and sells (probably) that day for 1/4 to 1/2 of its current value) Addict gets high, drug dealer makes way more money than they normally would, you, . . . . . are out of luck. It happens every day. Don't let it happen to you. If you have a sun baked, beat up $79.95 WalMart clunker, it's usually not an issue because generally, they aren't interested. (not enough money) But, if you have a custom made high dollar bike(s), well, can you say, "Gone in 60 seconds." You are on the road in a location you don't know well. The local thief picked you for exactly that reason. What are you gonna do now? Put your trip on hold and try to find your bike, or, just move on? Chum lee
Chum lee 03/04/19 12:50pm Tech Issues
RE: Generator noise reduction....

I got a red one and I think it's pretty quiet. Actually it's faded kinda pink. Does that make it quieter?? No. But if you keep leaving it out in the sun, someone may steal it. That WILL make it more quiet. Chum lee
Chum lee 03/02/19 01:10pm General RVing Issues
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