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RE: Do Many Full-Timers Keep 2 Stationary Trailers?
I would also worry about rodent infestation during those 6 months of storage.
That's something to think about.
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DallasSteve
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06/03/23 11:15pm |
Full-time RVing
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RE: Do Many Full-Timers Keep 2 Stationary Trailers?
Are you driving back and forth? What is the difference in fuel cost between truck only and towing?
Will you be paying 2 annual park fees? Or 6 months park plus 6 months storage times two?
And don't forget insurance for 2 RVs. Liability insurance at a minimum.
Those are good points to consider.
I expect the MPG will be 2X better with a car (sell the truck) compared to towing. Maybe more.
Some parks would allow a lower off season storage rate or else I could hire someone to tow it to a storage yard with lower rates then hire them to tow it back next season.
My RV bumped my auto insurance about $50 a month, but an older/cheaper RV would probably be less costly.
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DallasSteve
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06/03/23 09:25pm |
Full-time RVing
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RE: Do Many Full-Timers Keep 2 Stationary Trailers?
Just clarifying typical use of terminology. Avoids confusion when responding.
Yes, if you compare a low end rv park to a midrange apartment, rv is likely cheaper, though, keep maintenance in mind as it can narrow the gap. $450 won't get you in most nice snowbird parks and apartments can be cheaper if you don't need to be in suburbia. Depends a lot on expectations.
Having done a few winters on the Texas coast..expect up around $1000 for a nice park.
If you want to nitpick, I'll pick nits with you. I don't believe you are the definitive word on what a "full timer" is, but you are entitled to your opinion and I will go by mine. Are you going to tell the people in the park here living in an RV all year round that they aren't full time RVers? If not, then what are they?
As for the Texas coast, I spent the 20/21 winter there and I'm familiar with the rates there. You can spend $1,000 a month at a nice park. I was at a peaceful park (well occasional fireworks) in Alamo, Texas that winter. I just checked. Their current rate is $300 plus electric. You can even get a break at 3 months for $825. I like economy and value.
Edit: Wikipedia is not the definitive word on this, either, but I'd say it agrees with me:
Wikipedia: Fulltiming
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DallasSteve
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06/03/23 07:53pm |
Full-time RVing
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RE: Do Many Full-Timers Keep 2 Stationary Trailers?
I would make a differentiation in terminology. "Full timer", typically implies someone who travels in their RV.
I'd look at park models. If you are never going to tow them, no reason to accept the limitations of an RV.
Of course, depending on what the local RV park rates are, it might be cheaper to maintain 2 apartments.
1 - To me "Full timer" is someone who lives in an RV full time. Simple.
2 - Yes, a used park model may be the way to go.
3 - Have you checked apartment rates lately? I'm in a cheap RV park in North Carolina paying $450 per month. No water charge. No electric charge. A lot of the parks around here are twice that much which would be about $900, but down in South Texas for the winter I believe it's cheaper. Apartment rents here in this part of North Carolina start around $1,400. Double that to maintain 2 apartments and it's much more expensive than my idea.
So why do it? It's cheaper than apartment life and you get the better weather in summer and winter.
As for the last reply from another poster, I spent $350 in gasoline to drive my truck from South Texas to Western North Carolina and that was not pulling an RV. Pulling my big RV it's going to be more like $600, but yes, it probably won't get to $1,000 unless gas goes back to $5 a gallon.
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DallasSteve
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06/03/23 03:00pm |
Full-time RVing
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Do Many Full-Timers Keep 2 Stationary Trailers?
I'm living in a trailer in North Carolina for the summer (nice weather) and I plan to go back to South Texas for the winter. The idea occurred to me that it would be possible to have one trailer in the north and one in the south and commute between them. The advantage is I wouldn't need an expensive gas guzzling truck and I wouldn't need to spend $1,000 in gas twice a year to make the trek pulling a trailer. The biggest downside is I wouldn't be able to stay in state parks in my trailer, but I could rent a cabin here and there. With what I save on gas and truck cost and trailer cost I would still come out ahead. I say trailer cost would be less because I could buy 2 older trailers for less than I spent on my new Jayco. I wouldn't be as worried about the road condition of the trailer because I wouldn't be pulling it across country and I wouldn't need an A/C much if I play my cards right. I would pay a little in storage fees all year long, but I think I'm still ahead in cost.
So is this done much and are there other problems I'm not considering?
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DallasSteve
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06/02/23 12:07pm |
Full-time RVing
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RE: Would You Caulk This Shower Tub?
What Jerry said plus if you are in even a slight turn when you finish backing in the ball is more difficult to separate. Another thing I find helps is to chock the trailer then put the truck in neutral and let off the brakes for a second to reduce the fore-aft pressure. If you’re on a slope use just a second of drive or reverse (with no gas) instead as needed.
I'll try to remember those tips. I think one time I did give it a slight move forward or back to help it separate. I'll try to keep the truck as straight as I can when I am ready to unhook.
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DallasSteve
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05/24/23 09:59pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Would You Caulk This Shower Tub?
I agree with others, nothing needed there. My shower needed additional caulking when new, due to the vertical areas, where the stall touched the wall had some gaps.
BTW.. Is that new truck getting any smaller yet? All the trips to the store, and parking required, you should be getting used to it by now. :)
Jerry
Thanks for all the replies.
Jerry, I'm pretty used to driving my F-250 now, but I still don't try to squeeze it into regular parking spaces near a store. I park it at the back of the lot or far enough away that others don't want to park near me. But it did a fine job of pulling my 37 foot trailer. I never felt like it was a problem, except when it was raining it got a little slippery sometimes, so I slowed down a bit. And I am not using a WDH (hitch). My biggest concern is getting the 2 of them in and out of tight campgrounds, but I'm set up now for the summer and come fall when I head south I will try to scope out RV parks and roads that aren't too tight for me. That and when I try to unhook it the hitch won't let go until I have raised up the back bumper of the truck a few inches. Is that normal?
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DallasSteve
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05/23/23 03:46pm |
General RVing Issues
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Would You Caulk This Shower Tub?
Below is a photo of the shower tub in my new trailer. When I showered the first few times I notice some water leaking in the hall on the other side of the shower wall. Not a lot, but it was there. I realized that what was happening was that I unintentionally pointed the hand held shower at the edge of the tub where it meets the shower wall and some water seeped through to the other side. Rookie mistake, I know. I've been careful to avoid that since then and I haven't seen any more water leaking near the tub.
So I had the idea that I should caulk the edge of the tub and that would prevent any more leaks. I went to Walmart and bought some caulk, but I was cleaning the bathroom yesterday and I thought about how every bath I've ever owned or rented had caulk at the edge and it got the icky black or red mold that I could never completely clean out of the caulk. (I think 'icky' is the scientific term. I remember there was a TV show for kids in Dallas 50 years ago and the master of ceremonies was named Icky Twerp. He wore a cowboy hat that was much too small. I miss ol' Icky.)
So I have pretty much decided I'm not going to caulk this tub. I can take the caulk back to Walmart for a refund. Save your receipts. Do you agree? I think that may be why Jayco didn't caulk the tub in the first place. That and to save a few dollars.
https://i.imgur.com/8tPvmzjl.jpg
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DallasSteve
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05/23/23 08:37am |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Propane Connection Leaks
Not normal. You should not have any leaks. It may be your vent releasing some pressure. If you have filled the tanks and not used much and the temperature goes up the valve will vent. Try using some and then check for leaks.
Also you may have a little trash in the vent valve.
Don't run out and buy new disconnect from tanks and tap a few times then hook it back up and see if you are good to go.
"vent releasing some pressure"
Maybe that's what happened, if that is the design. The air temperature has been rising a little the last week and the tanks are almost full. I'll keep an eye on it. I may try the soapy water check on the connections. Can I remove the cap that says "Do Not Remove Cap" just to do a quick test?
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DallasSteve
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05/15/23 05:33pm |
Beginning RVing
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Propane Connection Leaks
I bought a new Jayco travel trailer and it has new propane tanks. It's gotten warmer here so I'm not using propane lately; I cook with an electric stove top and I use electric for my fridge and water heater. The electric is free where I am right now and I like free.
The other day I was checking my propane gauge and it was green, which is good, but I noticed a slight odor of propane in the area. I thought maybe the connections leak a little bit of propane as a normal thing. So I closed the propane tanks at the top just to save any that is leaking. Last night we got some rain so things are a little wet outside. I decided to open one of the tanks because it's getting a little cooler. When I did I saw a little bubble form and pop under the cap that says "Do Not Remove Cap". That sort of confirms what I suspected, that the connections aren't perfect.
Is this any cause for concern or is it in fact normal that the connections will have a little bit of leakage because like me they aren't perfect? I don't smell any propane inside the trailer.
https://i.imgur.com/keUfygQl.jpg
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DallasSteve
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05/15/23 12:04pm |
Beginning RVing
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RE: Can I lay my surge protector on the ground?
MFL
This park is in pretty bad shape all the way around, but it's about $200 a month cheaper than anything else in the area, so I'm content. I'll take economy over luxury on my budget.
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DallasSteve
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04/25/23 07:43pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Can I lay my surge protector on the ground?
I finished my Dollar Tree $3 special to support the surge protector off the ground. I like the solution, but it would be even better if I can find a way to secure it to the ground. The 30 Amp plug on my box is pretty loose and it can be easily pulled out of the socket and I can lose power in the trailer. I may check Walmart or eBay to see if there is something like tent spikes I can buy to secure it to the ground. It may end up being a $5 or $7 solution.
https://i.imgur.com/bpyuQO1l.jpg
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DallasSteve
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04/25/23 09:44am |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Can I lay my surge protector on the ground?
Thanks for the replies. I edited my original post with a photo of the surge protector on the ground. Here is is again. The electrical connection is about 1 or 2 inches off the ground, but we could get a puddle deeper than that. It sounds like a unanimous vote. I should put it on a box and then a second box to cover it. I bet I can find something at Dollar Tree that I can make work with a little cutting and maybe some duct tape. The circuit breaker box on my site is pretty low to the ground. :(
https://i.imgur.com/mgswsVGl.jpg
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DallasSteve
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04/23/23 10:45am |
General RVing Issues
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Can I lay my surge protector on the ground?
I bought a surge protector for my electric connection. People kept telling me I need to get one so I did. My trailer has a screw on electric connection on the side of the trailer so I want to use that connection as designed which means my only other option is to connect the surge protector at the circuit breaker box. It's long so one end will be on the ground connected to the long cable. Is that a bad idea, as in getting wet when we have a big rain? I posted photos of my electric connection on the wall and the surge protector connected on the ground.
https://i.imgur.com/u3ge6s9l.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/mgswsVGl.jpg
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DallasSteve
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04/23/23 09:20am |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Black Tank Help Needed
PS I always thought the backflush caps with the hose connection were gray water drains.
That’s the only thing I use them caps for. Always pack an old garden hose with so I can be environmentally conscious and recycle and irrigate the local flora in the hot dry summer!
Lol.
My trailer came with a black tank flush connection on the side. It is next to the fresh water intake and the electrical connections up higher than the black tank. I connected the hose from the water supply and opened the spigot. I opened the black tank slide dump valve and I could hear the fluid coming out to the dump.
I've been using my fresh water supply to refill my Pur filter water jug that I drink. Do you think that's safe? I'm also adding a water filter on the fresh water intake so it will be double filtered.
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DallasSteve
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04/23/23 09:15am |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Black Tank Help Needed
Update: It looks like the problem is solved. I talked to my brother who also lives in a camper. He said, If you have a black tank flush why don't you use it? I was concerned it might overflow, but the meter was reading only 1/3 after I dumped today. So I connected the back flush and opened the black tank. I watched the water through the clear opening and it started dirty but kept flowing so I left the water running until it became clear. Then I checked the meter inside and the black tank says E which means it's empty. So now I'm a happy camper again. Thanks for all the help. I'll keep doing the back flush after every tank dump.
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DallasSteve
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04/22/23 12:21pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Black Tank Help Needed
Bobbo
Thanks for that image. Now I understand. That seems like a good idea. If I can't clear my clog I may buy one of those and give it a try.
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DallasSteve
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04/22/23 07:54am |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Black Tank Help Needed
There is a sewer fitting that’s clear and has a garden hose inlet. You can use this to flush the drain lines out. Worse case, you can backfill your tank this way and see if it pushes any blockage around.
That sounds interesting, but I don't understand. Is there an Amazon link or something you could share? My trailer comes with a black tank flush connection. Will that do the same thing?
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DallasSteve
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04/21/23 07:12pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Black Tank Help Needed
Put a yardstick in the toilet to feel the bottom of the tank. Pull it out. You will KNOW the level.
Quit buying chemicals to put in the tank.
I put one of the chemicals I bought in the tank, and the smell went away in about an hour. I'm pretty happy about that. Tomorrow I may put some more water in the black tank and see if that cleared up the blockage. Besides the cost is there another problem with the chemicals?
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DallasSteve
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04/21/23 07:10pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Black Tank Help Needed
Have you physically looked in the toilet after emptying? If not shine a light down and if you see the bottom of the tank you are good. I stopped relying on the sensors long ago.
I've never tried that. I thought maybe it wasn't a direct line to the bottom. So I turned off the water, emptied the tank again, and opened it and shined a flashlight. It's dark. I can't tell if I'm seeing the bottom or not. Maybe you could. My eyes aren't that good any more.
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DallasSteve
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04/21/23 03:39pm |
General RVing Issues
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