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 > Your search for posts made by 'DrewE' found 601 matches.

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RE: Winterizing Travel Trailer

I've always used the compressed air method, and it works fine if you take your time, and is easier to dewinterize come spring. That said, both methods are perfectly effective if done properly. The idea that compressed air is only valid for moderately freezing temperatures is absolute foolishness. Water freezes when it's below freezing, and it doesn't freeze "more" because it's far below freezing. Either the plumbing is (basically) free of water or its not; if it is, you're good for any temperature, and if it's not, you should avoid conditions where it would freeze and burst fittings, etc.
DrewE 09/29/20 03:55pm General RVing Issues
RE: Why Didn't I Think of This Before?

I have never seen a RV that did not have a gravity/atmospheric potable fill capability. I personally believe that omitting that was an amazing stroke of stupid. How do you winterize it (among other things). I have such an RV, and it never really seemed to me a grave drawback. Normal filling is via the city water connection (with a pressurized hose), by opening a fill valve. I've yet to encounter a dump station that did not have an associated potable water fill hose/spigot, though doubtless a few do exist somewhere, so I've always just used the pressure fill. Winterization is performed by a typical winterization suction inlet, sticking a hose into the bottle of antifreeze and pumping it about the pipes. (Actually, I use compressed air to winterize, but that's neither here nor there.) I don't see why one would use a gravity fill to winterize if there were any other options: why put a good bit of antifreeze in the fresh water tank, and then have to take extra steps to rinse it out in the springtime? I'd think it far better in any case to just pump it through the piping and leave the tank empty. A system with a pressure fill valve and a winterization inlet can (nearly always) be set up to pump water from an external container into the tank by using both at the same time. It's not as quick as a gravity fill, but involves less lifting and pouring.
DrewE 09/29/20 09:45am Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Generator

A few possibilities: 1. Circuit breaker(s) on the generator have tripped. Sometimes these trip without the handle appreciably moving out of the "on" position, so the best way to verify is to reset even if the appear untripped. Obviously the precise location of the circuit breaker(s) vary with generator model. 2. If you don't have an automatic transfer switch, the shore power cord is not plugged into the generator socket within its storage compartment. I'd guess you have a transfer switch, though. 3. If you have an automatic transfer switch, maybe you just aren't waiting long enough for it to switch over (typically 30 seconds or so). If there's some sort of an EMS it may have an initial connection delay of its own too, possibly a couple of minutes. 4. A wiring fault/broken connection between the generator and the transfer switch/socket, or a broken transfer switch, etc. If you have a fancy EMS (electrical management system), possibly it's malfunctioning or improperly configured. Usually, if the generator itself is not producing power, its control board will shut the engine down with a fault. Since the electrical system (presumably) is working when using a shore power connection, the problem logically must be something in between the generator and the power distribution panel.
DrewE 09/29/20 09:23am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Is CG info available from MFG's

The weight/carrying capacity sticker in my RV lists the four individual wheel weights as manufactured. I don't know if they all do, but it's worth checking.
DrewE 09/27/20 08:57pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Help replacing pendant light globe

Is there a ring/nut inside surrounding the bulb holder that holds the shade to the fitter? That's a very common way of attaching pendant shades.
DrewE 09/27/20 05:48pm General RVing Issues
RE: Thinking about buying a class c

It's hard to judge condition based on pictures and a dealer's claims. That said, it does appear to be pretty well kept up. One thing to think about carefully with this unit is the lack of a fixed bed. This means you'll have to either clamber up to the cabover bunk to sleep (and clamber down to use the restroom), or convert the dinette or sofa into a bed every night and back again every day...and put up with their lumpiness. The cabover bunk can be comfortable enough to lie down on, but likely has low headroom--sitting up straight may well be impossible--and may not get much air conditioning airflow. The trimmed off rear ladder is strange and unhelpful.
DrewE 09/27/20 05:46pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Is CG info available from MFG's

OP has a good point. There must be some way manufacturer can determine fore & aft center of balance on a motorhome and mark it on side of unit. It's simple arithmetic given the (actual) axle weights. Obviously the center of gravity (and the weights) will vary with loading. I'm not sure what useful purpose marking the center of gravity on the side of a motorhome would serve; there's rarely if ever a need to balance it on a central pivot point.
DrewE 09/27/20 05:33pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: New to me 1979 Dodge Fireball

Precise schematics may very well not exist. Most RVs have pretty similar and generally reasonably straightforward wiring and plumbing systems, with only a few variants in places. Generic information should be sufficient to get you on the right track, and from there it's "just" tracing wires to see what goes where. Briefly, you have two basically distinct electrical systems in the house part (besides the vehicle chassis electrical system): a 12V DC system, and a 120V AC system. The two meet at the converter, a sort of built-in battery charger and 12V power supply for use when on shore power. The 12V system powers the lights, ceiling vent fans, furnace, water heater controls (if it's not a pilot ignition model), fridge controls (if applicable), water pump, etc. The 120 V AC system powers the air conditioner, the AC heating element for the fridge, and the convenience outlets, the microwave if you have one, and maybe a few other odds and ends. If you're gutting it, probably the best plan is to rip out the old wiring and install new. Some of the components may be worth salvaging and reusing (appliances in particular). The converter, if original, is only worth saving if you need something to keep a door from closing or a boat from drifting away.
DrewE 09/27/20 05:30pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: How to compress EMPTY air bags to remove

Rather than compressing the air helper spring, what about extending the suspension by jacking up the frame (not the axle) somewhat? Doing so safely isn't exactly trivial, but it's also far from impossible; jacking and supporting on cribbing or suitable stands would be a good plan. If you have leveling jacks, they could be used to do the jacking (but I wouldn't trust them to do the holding when I'm underneath with my hands working in a pinch and crush zone).
DrewE 09/26/20 02:58pm Tech Issues
RE: Onan primer switch wiring ??

The wiring of the switch is the same on both sorts of units, so the difference must lie in different versions of the control board. I don't know offhand if they can be directly interchanged or not. I also don't know that I would care to spend the money for a new control board module to replace a perfectly functioning one. My generator, similar to yours, doesn't have the prime function either. I've been thinking of installing a SPDT pushbutton on the generator in the fuel pump circuit, with the normally closed contact going to the usual generator control circuitry and the normally open contact to +12V power (and the common to the fuel pump). Pressing the button would operate the pump to prime the system, and releasing it would allow the generator to operate normally as before. This wouldn't make the inside remote switch able to prime; I'd have to go out and open the generator access panel and prime it there. This little project has been on the "to do someday" list for several years, so it obviously isn't a big priority for me.
DrewE 09/24/20 06:05pm Tech Issues
RE: Does RV antifreeze go bad?

It doesn't generally go bad. The dye may fade or change over time, but the ethanol and/or propylene glycol doesn't break down, at least over the course of a few years, assuming the container is closed so the contents cannot evaporate. If it's a few decades old or has evidence of some weird slime growing or something like that, I'd probably pass, but otherwise it shouldn't be any problem at all.
DrewE 09/24/20 05:59pm General RVing Issues
RE: Doing wheelies

I have also had difficulty checking tire pressures, often cutting myself on the openings to get to the valve stem. I found an easy solution in a hex drive handle with a magnetic socket that fits the valve caps. Easy to spin the caps off, they stay in the wrench end and are easy to put back on. A job that used to take several minutes is now about 30 seconds. Another excellent solution to the difficulty in removing the valve caps is to use air-through caps which do not need to be removed to check or adjust the pressure. The ones I have are Alligator brand, made in Germany, and are very well constructed and work nicely. They have a sort of pushrod mechanism that actuates the tire valve only when a chuck is on the cap, so there's no additional danger of air leakage.
DrewE 09/24/20 05:54pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: 2002 Ford E350 V10 Transmission Fluid

I think the Ford transmissions of that era have a drain plug on the torque converter. I know for certain that mine, a few years older, does have said plug. It usually takes a few blips of the starter to get the plug lined up with the access port.
DrewE 09/24/20 10:38am Tow Vehicles
RE: Doing wheelies

Those do look like wheel simulators to me. As K Charles said, tap them with the wrench or something. Six will go "tink" and two opposite each other will go "clunk"; the clunks are the real nuts. Even if you locate the identifying dimples, I think it's quicker and easier to just tap them rather than scrutinizing closely to discern the difference.
DrewE 09/24/20 10:31am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Class C side mirror questions

Don't make the hinges too easy to operate. Otherwise, you'll find you have to roll down the window and push them back out into position at intervals when driving somewhere. Guess how I know this....
DrewE 09/23/20 08:30pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Anyone traveling to Vermont for leaf season?

They give the sources for the data: John Hopkins University and the New York Department of Health. The map is updated weekly, so things may well (probably will) change around some by the time foliage season peaks. It does make planning in advance quite difficult--both for those traveling into the state and for those in the state desiring to travel elsewhere, since the quarantine requirements naturally also apply to returning residents.
DrewE 09/21/20 10:23pm RV Parks, Campgrounds and Attractions
RE: Anyone traveling to Vermont for leaf season?

I don't need to travel to Vermont for the foliage; I'm already here. :B There are self-quarantine requirements for travelers coming from many areas. See this link for details. If you're from a county in the northeast where the infection rate is sufficiently low, no quarantine is required; there's a map of which counties meet this requirement that's updated weekly.
DrewE 09/21/20 02:34pm RV Parks, Campgrounds and Attractions
RE: Furnace running requires hookup or engine running?

The house battery is beyond the end of its useful life, it seems, from what you've written. I suspect it gets very rough usage as basically a rental RV, probably being fully or nearly fully discharged many times, so they probably don't last very long. The generator does need a reasonably decent battery (and good solid connections to it) to start; it takes a lot of current to crank, compared with typical house loads.
DrewE 09/21/20 08:20am Tech Issues
RE: generator question

I think you are in luck; the remote control connections for the Honda generator appear to me to likely be compatible with typical Onan controls, at least for the start and stop controls. The pilot light circuit may not be compatible. Your generator manual has a wiring diagram that includes the remote control connections for the start and stop controls.
DrewE 09/20/20 09:51pm Tech Issues
RE: generator question

I'm assuming you don't have the Onan generator in the RV, just the prep package for a generator. It should be entirely possible to wire in a connection for the Honda generator to the prep wiring. Fuel connections and physically installing the generator in the space are likely to be rather more difficult, and might be altogether impractical or impossible. Note that the Honda EB6500 and EM6500 generators (in all their subvariants) are open-frame, contractor style generators and as such fairly loud. The EU7000IS is a quiet inverter generator, and would be much preferred, particularly if you're camping in proximity to other people. If you have the Onan generator installed, paralleling it with a Honda generator won't work.
DrewE 09/20/20 12:57pm Tech Issues
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