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 > Your search for posts made by 'DrewE' found 611 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: ABS Light On

As rgatijnet1 said, the brakes will work fine aside from the antilock system not kicking in, the same as if the vehicle simply never had antilock brakes. I personally would fell perfectly fine finishing a trip under those circumstances and getting whatever the problem is sorted out once home, especially if it were practical to avoid driving in poor weather or slippery conditions. It is not very hard to avoid snow and ice this time of year. (A bad or misaligned or poorly-connected sensor is a likely culprit, but there are a few other things that it possibly could be as well, including something with the control module, a failure in the BS valve and pump system, etc.)
DrewE 07/14/20 08:58am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Step out dash light sensor

On my step, which of course may not be anything like yours, that switch is a reed switch and the moving bit that attaches to the motor assembly to activate it is a magnet. I did have to reglue my magnet in place not too long ago, for what it's worth. You can easily test to see if it's a reed switch by holding a magnet near it and seeing if it actuates. If it is, there's nothign particularly important about what magnet you use (provided it's of an appropriate strength--a cheap flexible fridge magnet probably wouldn't work, for instance), so it should not be too hard to figure out something that works with a bit of experimentation.
DrewE 07/13/20 11:56pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: 2008 Coachmen Freelander 2130QB question

Drew, you might be correct, I don't know about those winterizing connectors. Do you think it might be an older version of the aftermarket BT connector kit, like the one in this link ? The below link shows a pic of a slightly different model that uses a white smooth plastic coupler instead of the older models white 'star' plastic coupling that is shown in the OP's pic, which is a threaded hose connector. The OP's picture looks very similar to the factory winterization connector on my Coachmen motorhome, which is not a garden hose thread but something a little smaller--I'm pretty sure it's a normal NPT (national pipe thread) fitting, looks to be about 1/2" to my eye. Mine also has a threaded plug for when it's not in use, and a maybe 3' length of tubing connected to a mating fitting to use when winterizing--or when pumping water from some outside container into the tank. I have no specific familiarity with these black tank rinse fittings. I suppose it's possible that one could use an NPT fitting and come with an adapter for a garden hose, although it seems a bit pointless to me to do so. Threading on the one is about as much work as the other, so why bother with something that requires an additional adapter bit to attach to your hose? A quick-connect fitting is a different matter entirely, of course.
DrewE 07/13/20 01:52pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: 2008 Coachmen Freelander 2130QB question

I think it may be a suction feed line for getting antifreeze into the system for winterization. I rather doubt that a black tank flush or a normal tank fill would use some threads other than a garden hose fitting. (A gravity fill may have no threads at all, I suppose.)
DrewE 07/13/20 07:53am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Another roadside assistance question

On the Dalton highway, there will be other vehicles sooner or later. It's not as though there are many other routes for people to take to get to Deadhorse/Prudhoe Bay...and the same is true for many of the other roads you're talking about. If you're in distress, people will generally be helpful, doubly so as everybody understands that there isn't cell coverage, etc. The tow bill, or other roadside assistance bill, could doubtless be pretty steep. I'm not sure how roadside assistance companies would do in getting help for you even once you made contact. Some of them don't provide service on non-paved roads, for instance. My opinion? It's not something worth worrying about excessively, but it is definitely wise to make reasonable preparations to avoid the need for roadside assistance in the first place: make sure your vehicle is in good condition, have a spare, or two, set to go (and also the tools to put it on), have enough food and water and such to be able to spend an extra night or two if the need comes up, etc.
DrewE 07/12/20 11:13pm General RVing Issues
RE: 1990s 2000s Ford engines in motorhome

My only worry is being afraid to change a dual wheel tire. Time to get insurance for roadside help as we camp mostly in remote regions. Assuming you have the right tools (an appropriate jack and lug wrench, etc.), changing one of the dually wheels for the spare isn't really any different from changing a front wheel. It's exactly the same process, and the lug nut torques are the same. The jacking point, on the axle under the spring mount, is maybe a tiny bit harder to get access to; but it's not that far buried. Of course, if it's an inner tire that needs changing, you do have to remove the outer to get to the inner, and replace it afterwards.
DrewE 07/12/20 10:59pm Beginning RVing
RE: My dinette light fixture fell down

Some sort of a hollow wall anchor or molly bolt might be a good option, assuming the structure of whatever you're trying to attach to is solid and the hole is merely stripped out.
DrewE 07/12/20 12:45pm Beginning RVing
RE: Vibration issue

There are several possibilities; off the top of my head, they include: 1. Out of balance wheels -- maybe a balance weight came off, or something is caught inside a wheel. I had a badly out of balance wheel once on my motorhome that I eventually discovered was caused by a bird (!) that somehow found its way into an inner rear wheel. 2. Out of round tires, not always immediately discernable by the eye 3. Brake dragging on a warped rotor 4. Out of balance drive shaft or worn drive shaft bearing/hanger or U-joint 5. If just starting out after being parked for quite some time, the tires will often be flat-spotted for the first few miles, which is nothing to be concerned with. This solves itself as they warm up, etc. This is almost certainly not an exhaustive list! For #3, there would be other pretty obvious effects: a wheel that's a lot warmer than the others, hot brake odor, the vehicle seeming to pull to one side when the brakes are applied, I think particularly if it's a front brake that is dragging. For drive shaft problems, the speed that the vibrations occur at is often lower than for wheel problems--maybe 30-45 mph to start vs. 60+ mph.
DrewE 07/11/20 12:24pm Beginning RVing
RE: Bending plywood for roof

You do realize "EXTERIOR GRADE" plywood simply means it is another name for BC grade plywood? BC grade is very rough texture on both sides with one side being lightly sanded. Exterior grade plywood glue is not moisture resistant, get it wet or damp and it WILL eventually come apart, to get moisture resistant glue you have to MARINE GRADE and that is not sold in big box stores. Everything I've read has said that exterior grade plywood means it uses waterproof glues, while interior plywood uses merely moisture-resistant glues. That's the main differentiator. Exterior plywood can come in many different face grades (as can interior plywood), though BCX is the most readily available one. Plain BC plywood (as opposed to BCX) is not exterior grade; that's what the X indicates. Marine plywood is a higher grade for sure, and costs correspondingly more.
DrewE 07/11/20 10:43am Tech Issues
RE: Sagging headliner

I've seen YouTube videos of people who have stapled it back up. Especially if you have some periodic seams or piping or other trim, or fuzzy/carpeted headliner material, a row of T-50 staples next to that is often surprisingly inconspicuous. (If you don't have such trim, it would not be too hard to make some by, for instance, ripping thin strips of wood to run accross the RV ceiling.)
DrewE 07/10/20 11:38am Tech Issues
RE: Walmart overnight and running the generator

I wouldn't have the slightest qualms about doing so. It seems to me that anyone else who is in a parking lot has no reasonable grounds to be upset about the noise of running engines. (That said, it is plain common courteousy to avoid using loud contractor-style generators when around other campers or overnighters.)
DrewE 07/09/20 09:41pm RV Parks, Campgrounds and Attractions
RE: Toll roads or not

While yes, one must be careful about low clearance, RV/motorhomes are not prohibited. Commercial trucks/tractor trailers are prohibited. Also what is a "parkway" can vary in different parts of the state. There's only one parkway in New York state that's not limited to passenger cars only, so far as I know: the Lake Ontario State Parkway, west of Rochester, which permits noncommercial trailers and motorhomes (I assume because it exists, in part, to provide access to state parks that have campgrounds and boat ramps). Other than that one oddball exception, motorhomes and trailers of any kind, including camping trailers, are not permitted on parkways in New York and Connecticut.
DrewE 07/08/20 09:01am Roads and Routes
RE: 1990s 2000s Ford engines in motorhome

I would look at MH's that were 2006 or newer. Both Ford or Chevy had engine and chassis improvements beginning that year HP was 362 and 340 respectively. Chevy had the better transmission but both were much better than previous years. It's perhaps worth noting that the Ford E series chassis used for class C motorhomes doesn't have the higher-power version of the V10 engine (the three-valve version). There have been various improvements in the V10 over the years for the E series, of course, but no large jumps in power. For a class A motorhome (excepting the very few built on an E series chassis, such as the Thor Ace) the three-valve engine with the horsepower increase is well worth taking into account. Also be aware that the chassis model year is fairly often a year behind the finished motorhome model year. The RV manufacturer determines the model year of the final vehicle, based on when it was completed, rather than on the date when the chassis rolled off chassis assembly line.
DrewE 07/08/20 08:46am Beginning RVing
RE: How many miles a day can we go?

Decent advice has been given. Expect the going to be generally a little slower in the motorhome (overall) than in a car or minivan. You may not be able to maintain the speed limit on hills or in windy conditions. Gas stops will take a little longer--pumping 45 gallons takes longer than pumping 20 gallons--and maneuvering in parking lots, etc. is slower going, and things just generally are a bit slower. Driving the motorhome I find a bit more demanding and draining than driving my car--not hard or nerve-racking, in general, but a bit more demanding and consequently I don't care to drive quite so long as I would in the car. If you've driven a U-Haul, a class C motorhome is in many ways similar, with more comfortable seats and often a little better visibility due to windows in the body of the vehicle. Whenever you do make the trip, I recommend taking the I-81 route rather than I-95; I-95 through Washington, Baltimore, Philly, NYC, and Boston is stressful driving and sometimes slow. There are other non-interstate routes, of course, that are also reasonable but slower going.
DrewE 07/07/20 07:58pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Help in Purchasing Class A Motorhome

Forest River products are almost as bad as Thor products, and that's really bad. Forest River and Thor Industries (including all their subsidiaries) together account for a little more than 80% of the North American RV industry.
DrewE 07/06/20 11:29pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: F53 Loses Power on Rough Roads

Check for a loose connection on something that might actually be shutting off the ignition momentarily which is causing your RPM drop. The ABS light probably is not related to the engine issue but could be from a loose sensor connection at one of your wheels. If the computer is losing power, the light could well be illuminating for the self-test/bulb test, similar to how it does when the key is first turned on. I'd guess they're both caused by the same loose connection.
DrewE 07/06/20 07:30pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Do any of the new TTs come with Surge Protectors?

Progressive dynamics seems to be the popular choice. Progressive Industries, not Progressive Dynamics. Progressive Dynamics makes well-regarded converters. Progressive Industries makes the EMS/surge protectors. Both are good products, but they're two entirely different companies with confusingly similar names.
DrewE 07/06/20 10:12am Tech Issues
RE: winching a trencher

How fast is the trenching operation? Would it be practical to just hook a chain up to a tractor (or lawn tractor) and put it in a low gear?
DrewE 07/06/20 10:07am Around the Campfire
RE: Co alarm

Some alarms are sensitive to low (12V system) voltage.
DrewE 07/06/20 08:19am Tech Issues
RE: Charge across 2 6V batteries is 11.78. Is that right?

The wizard light will stay steady until the batteries are (nearly) charged. As far as I have been able to work out, it goes to steady, and the corresponding 14.4V output setpoint, when the battery voltage drops below some value, and stays there until it has been at or near the setpoint voltage for a few hours. It then cycles to the lower setpoint voltages and corresponding flashing light signals. The lowest of these does bump the output to the higher voltage for 15 minutes every 24 hours, what they call desulfation mode. The actual output voltage may be less than the setpoint because of current and power limits, and generally will be when low batteries are receiving a charge. In short, the converter is behaving as designed, from what you have written.
DrewE 07/05/20 07:46pm Tech Issues
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