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 > Your search for posts made by 'DrewE' found 577 matches.

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RE: And Another Battery Question

Altitude should not affect battery voltage or charge characteristics to any significant degree--probably not at all for any practical purposes. The chemistry of a lead-acid battery is not affected by ambient air pressure in any meaningful way. Cades Cove is not at a particularly high elevation anyhow, around 1700 feet or so.
DrewE 10/27/21 11:23am Tech Issues
RE: Winterizing Issue

I think the city/fresh water valve just connects the pressure side of the plumbing, shared by the pump and the city water inlet, directly to the fresh water tank; if it were up to me, I'd label it as a fill valve. It makes sense that with it open (i.e. fresh water setting) and set up otherwise for winterizing that the pump would pull from the antifreeze jug and dispense the fluid into the tank. Similarly, if you're operating from the internal tank only, putting it on fresh water would cause the pump to operate continually, circulating water from the fresh water tank back into the same tank. If that's how things are set up, it does mean you can use the pump to (fairly slowly) fill the fresh water tank from a container--just do what you were doing when trying to winterize, but with water instead of antifreeze. In some occasional situations that can be a handy option to have available.
DrewE 10/27/21 11:17am General RVing Issues
RE: Electric brakes mystery

Did you check the ground connections on both sides of the trailer plug (and through it)?
DrewE 10/27/21 09:08am General RVing Issues
RE: Upgrading converter

I suspect (though it's far from certain) that the old converter had separate outputs for the battery charging and the general 12V use, and the 12V fuse panel is split into circuits that are always on the battery side of things and those that, when the converter is on, were switched to the converter power. If that's the case, then probably the orange wire needs to be bridged to the other positive connections. Do verify things carefully first; post pictures if you're not sure and people here can probably help.
DrewE 10/26/21 09:40am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Winterizing Q

In theory, either can be made to work. In practice, it's easier with the heater bypassed, as you don't have to reinstall the plug (so it's airtight and water can be forced out the hot lines), and then remove it again afterwards (so any water from the cold lines forced into the water heater is removed). It also avoids having a large air reservoir--the heater tank--from generally interfering with and slowing down the process. Once the winterizing is done, it matters not one whit which way the valves are set.
DrewE 10/25/21 04:01pm General RVing Issues
RE: Changing a tire yourself

I've changed a tire "in anger" on my motorhome (while on the road) twice: once because a tire came apart apparently due to internal damage or defects, and once because I managed to maneuver too close to a stump and got some bits of wood stuffed up between the sidewall and the rim. I won't say it's fun, but it wasn't a terrible ordeal for me and I thought beat waiting for AAA to find someone to help and for them to come. (I have also had AAA come to change the tire once on the motorhome, the result of cutting too close to a curb not long after I had gotten it, and aside from taking some time to get someone out it worked out just fine. I did not have a jack at the time.) In any case, I just use a pretty standard bottle jack with an adjustable height center column that can be screwed upwards to increase the height, a 24" breaker bar, and appropriate sockets--and, of course, wheel chocks diagonally opposite. I've done pretty much the same task in my own driveway a few times, too, for various reasons, most commonly because a tire or brake shop didn't realize the big holes in the Centramatics should be lined up with the inner valve stems so you can check and fill the tires. I have usually just put the removed tire in the middle of the kitchen area, inside the main door of my motorhome, where there's a nice big spot on the floor; it's quicker than cranking it up with the lift mechanism for the spare.
DrewE 10/25/21 03:58pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Loading generator

How will using an electric heater in the cold create condensation? It doesn't add moisture to the air, so there's nothing (new) to condense out. If anything, it would (temporarily) remove condensation as the warmer air can hold more moisture, and some of the already condensed water will evaporate or sublime into water vapor. If you're in with the electric heater, breathing and perspiring, you will of course be adding moisture to the air that can condense out...but that's also true if you're in there without the heater. IMHO, an electric space heater or two makes a dandy load for the generator. At some times of the year, the combination of a heater and the air conditioner works well, too.
DrewE 10/24/21 10:52pm Beginning RVing
RE: Tires?

There are a few considerations with changing tire sizes. It's hard or impossible to say which, if any, of these would cause you trouble without more information (specifically what information should be pretty obvious). The overall diameter of the new tires is a slightly smaller, which means your speedometer and odometer will read about 1.5% higher than is correct--probably not enough to worry about. The new tires are a little wider; there are a couple of potential concerns with that. First, if the rims are not wide enough, it may not be safe to use the wider tires with them; however, I highly doubt that would be any concern as it's not a big change in width. Perhaps more likely is that the clearance between the dually tires may become too small, leading to rubbing and/or overly reduced heat dissipation. Finally, you also need to check the weight handling capacities of the two tires, and ensure the new ones are sufficient (and at pressures that are within the limits of your wheels). I doubt there is a lot of difference there, so you're most likely fine here. My hunch is that the new size would be perfectly acceptable, but do double-check with someone who really knows what they're doing or talking about (rather than just me). If you happen to have a spare, whether mounted or otherwise, it needs to be the same basic size as the others, of course.
DrewE 10/23/21 09:16pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Hi from RI

No extended service plan / extended warranty is going to be sold that on average pays out more than the buyer pays in; that, after all, would simply put the company selling it into bankruptcy eventually. I'd forego them as a general rule--and doubly so if you would have to get the RV from Rhode Island back to Florida for any service to make use of them. As far as things to get for outfitting, you probably don't need to go overboard initially. Bedding, basic consumables (TP, paper towels, soap, etc.), a water and sewer hose and sewer elbow, cleaning supplies and tools, trash can and trash bags, lighter for the stove/oven...those sorts of essentials. If you forget something, it is of course entirely possible to purchase it along the way. For tools, I would get a halfway decent #2 square screwdriver, an adjustable wrench, and a pair of pliers, and go from there. Having all the stuff needed to put on the spare tire--if you have a spare--is also a good idea: a suitable jack, wheel chocks, and a wrench of some sort with sufficient leverage to manipulate the lug nuts. Warning triangles and/or flares are also a very good idea. I do find I make very good use of a windshield cleaning squeegee.
DrewE 10/19/21 10:13am Beginning RVing
RE: In a quandary

Ultimately, it is of course your decision. The chances of an unvaccinated person causing any significant problems for a vaccinated one are quite slim; you're much less likely to catch the disease, and if you do catch it, much less likely to have any serious illness from it. The main worry would be for the unvaccinated person, and presumably they've already weighed the pros and cons (as they see them) for themselves, and are prepared to live with whatever consequences they have. On the other hand, the restrictions on what we do--whether self-imposed or mandated by authorities--are cutting some portion of the living out of our lives. At what point is potentially saving some people's life worth removing 5% or whatever of the life of everyone else? That's a really, really hard question to answer--and I don't know that I could answer it, and I am glad I don't have to be in a position like a governor to have to make it. But, I think if it were me in your shoes, I would readily say that family takes priority over the very small risk to my own health, just as I would say that family takes priority over the small risk of being in a car crash while driving there, etc. However, as I said at first, it's not me deciding for you.
DrewE 10/17/21 07:30pm Around the Campfire
RE: F53 460 Engine runs very poorly when heat soaked

Please note that these suggestions are little more than stabs in the dark. Don't put more faith in them than they deserve. I'm not really sure on the details of this engine, either, in terms of its specific systems and sensors and whatnot. Stumbling under load can of course be caused by quite a few things. One possibility that comes to mind is a fault in the MAF sensor (assuming the engine has one). Perhaps the connector is a bit loose or something and becoming intermittent when hot. Other ideas: Plug wires? Distributor (again, if the engine has one)? Fuel pressure regulator a fuel injected engine? Intake manifold cracks or looseness or broken mounting studs?
DrewE 10/16/21 03:18pm Tech Issues
RE: Do you always need an RV Park ? .....

Dry camping is very much possible, as others have said. Sometimes that's also great for staying at some campgrounds that don't have hookups available (besides just stopping wherever is convenient and legal) or that charge excessively for them. This summer I went to the Oshkosh AirVenture fly-in/aviation extravaganza. Most of the campground available there consists of what appear to be hayfields with roads and cross-roads marked out; you find a happy-looking spot and plonk yourself down there, and then use the generator and dump/fill stations as necessary. (There are some full hookup campsites available, but they are pretty expensive and sell out quickly.) While I have a class C, a class A would have done equally as well and indeed there were a great many of them around too.
DrewE 10/15/21 02:14pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Best place in Wichita Kansas Area for E450 alignment

You want a truck shop. One that Google found is Atlas Spring and Axle, 4500 W Irving St. I have no experience with them personally, since I'm many hundreds of miles away, but it seems like the kind of place that quite possibly could do a great job. At the least, they will work on motorhomes per their web site, and have been around for quite some time so presumably provide good enough service for people to come back to them.
DrewE 10/15/21 12:28pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Anderson connectors: if too small, is that a bottleneck?

Ed, I am the OP, and I am again showing my ignorance here -- why would a 120 wat portable panel (like mine) be immune to a voltage drop? Is the drop worse for more powerful solar panels? Voltage drop is a direct application of Ohm's Law, V=IR. The voltage across a resistance will equal the current through it multiplied by it's resistance; and given any two of them, the third can be thusly computed. For a 12 gauge wire, for example, the resistance is (based on a quick web search) 1.588 ohms per 1000', or equivalently 1.588 milliohms per foot. A 50 foot length to the solar panel, with 100' total wire (50' for the positive and 50' for the negative), would have a resistance of roughly 0.16 ohms. The 120 watt panel nominally produces 10A at 12V, so the voltage drop would be 10A * 0.16 ohms = 1.6V worst case. A higher power system, say 480 watts, would produce more current (40A) and--ignoring the fact that this may well exceed the ampacity of the 12 gauge wire--the voltage drop would be correspondingly greater, at 6.4V. However, if the voltage were higher, and a controller or whatever at the far end of the wire converting it to whatever is appropriate, the current would be lower, and the voltage drop also lower, and the fraction of the loss much, much less. For what it's worth, an Anderson Powerpole connector for 12 gauge wire has a rated resistance of 0.6 milliohms per contact, or about the same as a few inches of wire. It will not contribute significantly to the voltage drop so long as it's properly installed, kept clean, and generally working properly.
DrewE 10/13/21 10:52pm Tech Issues
RE: 2001 Shasta wiring

The chances of finding a comprehensive wiring diagram are pretty slim, unfortunately. If the wire to the slide is going to the motor for the slide mechanism itself (as opposed to some lights or whatever that happen to be in the slide), it might lead to the switch for the slide, or it might lead to a fuse/circuit breaker near the battery or in the DC electric panel (and other, low-current wires go to the switch). If you figure out who made the slide mechanism and its actuator, if it's not something Shasta engineered themselves, you might be able to find installation or maintenance information about that which would show typical wiring.
DrewE 10/11/21 10:13pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Chains in BC

In my limited experience, it's mostly just after you were going up the hill, but didn't make it, and are now going back down backwards with even less control. I feel safer when driving up a slippery hill than down a slippery hill.
DrewE 10/11/21 09:43am RVing in Canada and Alaska
RE: Replacing water heater due to age........

I wouldn't replace a perfectly working water heater just because it's almost old enough to vote, either in an RV or a house. I do think it wise to turn off the water pump or campground spigot when away from the RV to prevent flooding in the event of a leak somewhere in the system.
DrewE 10/09/21 09:12pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Fresh water tank drain.

What leads one to believe the seals on the drain valves need moisturizing and lubrication? And, in any case, what keeps the seals on the output side of the gate wet and lubricated if that were indeed necessary? There's no harm in having antifreeze there, but it's not at all necessary.
DrewE 10/08/21 04:08pm Beginning RVing
RE: Rear view camera

If it were me, I'd be seeing if there was someone I knew and trusted who could drive the jeep while the motorhome pulled the empty trailer. Seems simpler and perhaps safer all around to me. Alternately, possibly you could put the Jeep on the trailer...or maybe even mount the trailer on the roof of the Jeep, if it's a lightweight open trailer. If you do double-tow, take care to verify the legalities quite carefully. It's not uncommon for recreational double towing to only be permitted when the first trailer is a fifth wheel, which of course isn't your situation.
DrewE 10/08/21 04:02pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Fresh water tank drain.

While there's no real harm to having antifreeze in any of the tanks, if you drain them normally, there should be no need of keeping any antifreeze in them. Whatever miniscule amount of water remains on the bottom of the tank has plenty of room to expand as it freezes, and no fittings to fill and burst/split apart. If you have any significant amount of water remaining in, say, the dump line between the tank and the dump valve, that could very well lead to trouble; but a quarter inch or whatever in the bottom of a tank is not a concern.
DrewE 10/07/21 01:43pm Beginning RVing
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