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 > Your search for posts made by 'DrewE' found 708 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: 12 volt versus 24 volt deep cycle batteries

Ah...I suspect you have a group 24 battery. "Group 24" refers to the physical dimensions of the battery, not the voltage. It's a 12V battery if your lights and stuff are all working properly (and have been since it was installed some time ago). A 12V battery has six cells, and so six fill ports/vent caps which may be ganged together in groups with a long cap. A 24V battery would have twelve of them. That's one easy way to tell visually. The labeling on the battery probably also spells out the voltage somewhere, though it may be difficult to find. It is true that a 24V battery would be the wrong one for your RV, but if you had a 24V battery installed for a year you would have found that out about a year ago.
DrewE 12/14/19 07:57pm Around the Campfire
RE: 12 volt versus 24 volt deep cycle batteries

Unless your RV has a 24 volt system, which would be quite unusual, you need a 12V rather than a 24V battery for it.
DrewE 12/13/19 10:13pm Around the Campfire
RE: 12 volt versus 24 volt deep cycle batteries

What's the application of this battery? What voltage do you need? Are we talking about lead-acid batteries (I'm assuming yes)? The voltage in itself will make no difference at all in how long the battery holds a charge. There may be other differences between the batteries (different battery types, or something), or the salesman may very well be clueless. Don't underestimate the prevalence of cluelessness in the world. The main difference between a 24V and a 12V lead acid battery is the number of cells: six cells for the 12V battery, and twelve for the 24V battery. That means that two 12V batteries in series is exactly the same thing electrically as a single 24V battery, just packaged up differently. (Four 6V batteries in series would also be the same basic thing.) If you need 24V power, a single 12V battery is not going to work. As to how long a battery holds a charge, assuming no load is applied, the battery type/design, age, and temperature all play significant roles. Temperature makes a substantial difference; a couple weeks at 80 degrees will result in more self-discharge than several months of sub-freezing temperatures. If you mean capacity under load, that's a question more about the battery's capacity, a whole other can of worms.
DrewE 12/13/19 07:14pm Around the Campfire
RE: Water and Gas Usage Rates

I have around a 35 gallon fresh water tank (I don't recall the exact size), and figure one week for one person with modest efforts at conservation--basically navy showers (daily) and generally not wasting water. That includes dishwashing as I don't really like eating off of paper plates. Propane usage is quite low for me, but that's with a gasoline generator. Probably about a month of fridge, stove, and water heater usage on a tank fill (60 or 80 pounds or so nominal usable capacity...not entirely sure without looking). During cool or cold weather, with furnace usage, it would not last nearly as long. As others have said, a propane generator uses a lot of propane relatively speaking. The level of conservation one practices varies a good bit from person to person. Still, you should have no real trouble at all going at least a week or so before needing water.
DrewE 12/13/19 07:01pm Beginning RVing
RE: Battery monitor gauge upgrade

I have a voltmeter and a (bidirectional) digital panel ammeter that shows the charge or discharge current for the battery. Many of the inexpensive panel ammeters available cannot measure bidirectionally, and it required a bit of extra fiddling (installing a little isolated DC-DC converter so the ammeter's supply isn't referenced to ground) to be able to get the bidirectional readings, but it's most useful to be able to see both charge current and discharge current. I would go with a quality digital volt meter mounted close as possible to the power bank. Mounting the voltmeter close to the battery bank is not essential for an accurate reading. Connecting the sense wires as close as practical to the battery bank is important, but they can be run quite a distance without materially affecting the accuracy as the amount of current they carry (and hence the voltage drop due to wire resistance) is miniscule. This is doubly true if you have the sense wires separated from the power supply wires. The same applies to the sense wires from a current shunt, as well; they can be any halfway reasonable length without appreciably impacting the accuracy of the reading, for the same reasons.
DrewE 12/13/19 10:03am Tech Issues
RE: Renting an RV in Alaska

Local enquiry about the unpaved highways is never a bad idea. However, there are plenty of times non-four-wheel-drive vehicles can travel most of them, or at least most of the major ones. I drove my class C over the Dalton Highway, the Taylor Highway, and the Edgerton Highway without incident. The Dalton was definitely hard on the RV due to roughness and some dust and mud; I'm not sure I would go over it again, certainly not too many times, for fear of cabinets and things shaking loose and generally wearing out prematurely, but the road itself was certainly nowhere near impassable. That said, in adverse weather conditions, it could well be entirely different. There are, of course, several national parks in Alaska that simply are not accessible by road. Travel to and from Alaska by road is not the crazy adventure it once was; it's a long drive, and has spans with little in the way of services, but one certainly would not need four wheel drive or anything like that to make it (barring adverse winter conditions). I don't think you will find much more beautiful and extraordinary scenery elsewhere than there is in Alaska and western Canada.
DrewE 12/12/19 12:17pm RVing in Canada and Alaska
RE: VAN CAMPER COVERSION

If the channels are on the interior of the vehicle, not exposed to the elements, Romex (NM-H) in flex tubing or otherwise protected against abrasion and cutting and properly secured against flexing/vibration is fine and typical. If exposed outside, I'd probably prefer EMT with wires suitable for wet locations or liquid tight tubing or similar. Generally RV 120V wiring is not run where it is exposed to the elements if it can at all be avoided (e.g. for everything other than connecting to a built-in generator).
DrewE 12/10/19 10:00pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Route to Florida

I95 in MA and CT (and presumably RI) can have a fair bit of traffic; in my experience it usually moves along okay, but there's a lot of vehicles on the road. Not my favorite driving to be sure. I'd probably take I-90 (toll) to I-88 to I-81 rather than I-287 and I-78. I-84 through Connecticut is not bad now (there is still some construction going on, but the worst of it is past and the road in decent shape); through NY and PA it's pretty rough pavement, at least as of a year or so ago when I was last on it. Depending where in Maine you are, it might also be sensible to take e.g. US2 across to Montpelier, Vermont, then I-89 to I-189 to US7 south to VT 22A to US4, into New York state, and 9N to 149 to I-87 south and continue on however seems appropriate. Not the fastest route, and not perfectly flat (you're going east to west in northern New England, after all), but nice roads and not bad traffic.
DrewE 12/10/19 01:17pm Roads and Routes
RE: Converter Panel "Latch"

Here is what your looking for. They are off the charts expensive so be careful when installing.$3.50 each is expensive? Expensive yes, unaffordable probably not. But those latches probably cost less than a penny each to make. Even if they were a dime each $3.50 is crazy expensive for what you get. It's like the cup of coffee or tea or a glass of coke at a restaurant; you're mainly paying for the service rather than the product. In this case, it's the packaging, inventorying and warehousing, order fulfilment, etc. that cost a bunch. $3.50 really doesn't seem out of line to me for a relatively low-volume specialized doodad.
DrewE 12/10/19 08:54am Tech Issues
RE: Extension cords

Also if by chance there is only a 15 amp breaker in the panel change it to a 20 amp. DO NOT do this. The only reason there would be a 15A breaker in the panel is that the house wiring connected to it is 14 gauge wiring, and "upgrading" to a 20A breaker would be contrary to the electric code and arguably a fire hazard. Who has a code allowing 14 gauge wire? You couldn't run but one plug in on it. Our last home built in 1970 had 10 gauge solid wiring. The National Electric Code permits 14 gauge wire (for 15A circuits), and several outlets on those circuits, for some areas of the house. 20A circuits seem to be a little more common around here (with 12 gauge wire), particularly for new construction, but by no means universal. I had not previously heard of houses with 10 gauge wire being generally used for convenience outlets. That would be very rare indeed around these parts; the only time I can think of it being likely would be where there is a very long wire run to the circuit, say perhaps to supply a shed that's clear across the back yard.
DrewE 12/10/19 12:21am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Fridge Doesnt work on Propane

Thanks for the update; glad it's working now. For other people who might read this thread, besides the various possibilities listed, some fridges have a shut-off valve as part of the burner assembly, and if that valve is shut off the fridge won't work on propane. On mine it looks more like a thumbscrew/setscrew than a typical valve.
DrewE 12/09/19 06:39pm Tech Issues
RE: Deadbolt suggestions

I'd go for a surface mount residential deadbolt (sometimes called a rim lock or, for certain designs a Segal lock). It should be easier to mount on a thin door than a tubular or mortise lock. Give a little thought to how you would get out in the event of a fire. You have very little time to do that in an RV fire, much less than in a typical house fire, and fumbling with a key to open the door could be problematic.
DrewE 12/09/19 06:36pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Extension cords

Also if by chance there is only a 15 amp breaker in the panel change it to a 20 amp. DO NOT do this. The only reason there would be a 15A breaker in the panel is that the house wiring connected to it is 14 gauge wiring, and "upgrading" to a 20A breaker would be contrary to the electric code and arguably a fire hazard.
DrewE 12/09/19 01:47pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Extension cords

I agree with the others who say to get a premade extension cord. Standard Romex is not suitable for outdoor use (it's not rated for damp locations, much less wet ones), nor for places where it's subject to physical damage, nor for use where it gets bent and unbent repeatedly. A 12 gauge extension cord and a 15-30A adapter will probably cost no more than the Romex and the plug and socket to build one yourself; in either case, you're paying mostly for the copper, and it's the same amount in either case.
DrewE 12/09/19 09:28am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Route to Florida

My usual route is basically Interstate 81 to Interstate 77. Interstate 81 does somewhat go through the mountains, but the terrain is really more like rolling hills than significant grades. Interstate 77 descending Fancy Gap is a significant grade and can be a little trecherous at times due to foggy conditions. They have variable speed limits for that reason. Taking reasonable care and properly downshifting and such are necessary, but if done it's a perfectly good route and in my opinion much preferable to needlessly going through NYC, Baltimore, Washington DC, etc.
DrewE 12/09/19 08:24am Roads and Routes
RE: Flattest routes from GA To Nashville,TN

yep! Had to alternate days with my brother. We only had one pair of shoes between us. ;) Let me guess: on odd days, you hopped on your left foot and he hopped on his right foot; and on even days, you hopped on your right foot and he on his left?
DrewE 12/09/19 08:17am Roads and Routes
RE: Furnace running very hot...

I just pulled up the pdf installation guide and read this... Adjust ducting installation to obtain an air temperature rise of 100°F-130°F. Also see air flow check section. Sounds like you're right on spec, then, with a bit over a 110 degree temperature rise (68 to 180 degrees).
DrewE 12/07/19 07:39pm Tech Issues
RE: Furnace running very hot...

I agree with needing an actual temperature measurement. IR Thermometer https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71c5DtsEW-L._AC_SL1500_.jpg width=160 Very handy gizmos, but not good for measuring air temperatures; they measure surface temperatures based on infrared radiation from the surface. A "normal" thermometer is the right tool to measure air temperature.
DrewE 12/07/19 07:55am Tech Issues
RE: Lots of good Football Games Today/Tonight!

Today is also the first day of the Pop Warner superbowl, and that tournament also includes some really great football by young athletes. I like seeing them play some styles of football that are no longer common in professional or college games, but still can work very effectively.
DrewE 12/07/19 07:50am Around the Campfire
RE: Continental Tires PSI rising 20

Pressure increase is directly related to the air temperature (and the outside air pressure); it's a simple matter of physics and has nothing to do with the brand of tire. Assuming basically dry air, it very nearly obeys the ideal gas law. Water vapor causes some deviations from the ideal behavior as at typical tire temperatures and pressures water doesn't quite respond as an ideal gas. Maybe the air you have in the tires isn't particularly dry. If you've driven up a mountain, the increase in altitude will cause a small increase in measured tire pressure since the atmospheric pressure goes down a bit. It's not a huge difference, less than 5 psi for any road you're likely to encounter.
DrewE 12/06/19 09:38pm Class A Motorhomes
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