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 > Your search for posts made by 'DrewE' found 654 matches.

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RE: First Post - 2012 Ram 1500 Laramie - What can I pull??

It might also be worth looking at full-size vans. Many of them have quite decent tow ratings, along with sufficient payload capacity to pull a large trailer and carry some people and stuff inside simultaneously. If you don't need an open bed, they can be a good option.
DrewE 04/19/21 02:17pm Beginning RVing
RE: Must Have M12 23 guage pin nailer

Pin nailers are great when used appropriately. The nail hole is all but invisible. Besides putting up trim, they can work very nicely like clamps when gluing up odd-shaped wood assemblies. I'm happy with my $20ish (looks like it's closer to $30ish now, with an additional depth control) Harbor Freight pneumatic version. The trigger safety gizmo is rather janky and not really trustworthy.
DrewE 04/19/21 10:22am Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Water valve directional?

This looks like a ball valve. They are not directional with respect to the water flow direction--or, more precisely, the side with pressure when closed. It's gate and maybe globe valves where the pressure needs to be on the correct side to prevent leaking when closed. Edit: Check valves are also directional, for rather obvious reasons.
DrewE 04/18/21 09:51pm Tech Issues
RE: Route Guidance - Washington, DC to Lake Winnipesaukee

With only one or two exceptions, avoid roads in New York and surrounding states parkways. Probably the most notable exception is the Garden State Parkway in New Jersey, which is fine for RVs. I would take I-270 to I-70 to I-81, and then I-84 to I-90 to I-290 to I-495 to I-93 and from there whatever makes sense to get to what area around Lake Winnipesaukee you're going to. (Being one who doesn't like to pay tolls, I usually get off of I-93 at exit 10 and take route 3A north to just beyond I-89--or, more commonly, to I-89 since I'm more likely heading home to Vermont from somewhere in the vicinity of Boston if I'm on that bit of road. The Irving at exit 10 usually has fairly good prices for gasoline.) Some here strongly recommend against I-290 due to congestion. I've never found it exceptionally bad, though I don't have a ton of experience with it. Taking I-95 to I-287 to I-87 to I-84 (or something similar) is a good bit shorter, and probably often quicker, but I prefer to avoid going through the urban areas it goes through, particularly the Baltimore region, if possible. I would not even consider taking I-95 through New York City unless your destination was actually in New York City or otherwise required that route. That said, I have survived taking my motorhome to camp in Brooklyn a couple of times, so it's not an impossible task.
DrewE 04/18/21 04:20pm Roads and Routes
RE: First Post - 2012 Ram 1500 Laramie - What can I pull??

I have a 1999 Dakota with payload of 1275. Why does a 13 year newer 1/2 ton ram only have 1600? Because of all the comfort items, options, etc. Yep, all that extra bling lowers payload. I suspect a large part of it is more specifically the increased size of the passenger compartment over the years, more than a vast increase due to electronics and comfort bits. Steel safety cages for passenger protection in crashes and bigger windows weigh a whole lot more than bluetooth receiver chips and power seat adjustment motors and rear view cameras. Likely also softer riding suspension doesn't help things, either.
DrewE 04/18/21 03:49pm Beginning RVing
RE: Anyone have the new Ford 7.3L V8?

In 2021 is there a choice regarding engines ? Can it be ordered either way v10 or v8 ? Ford is not producing E-series chassis with the V10 anymore, but only with the new V8. If you were ordering a chassis on your own, you have no choice (nor, if memory serves, would you have had a choice previously as only the modular engines were available). An RV manufacturer may be building on older chassis for some or all of their current model year production, depending on their inventory and production lead times and model year changeover dates and similar sorts of things.
DrewE 04/15/21 10:32pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: effects of / protection from undervoltage

A key formula to remember Watts = Volts * Amps. Electric motors generally pull the same wattage, so if the volts go down, the amps must go up to compensate. Items like a toaster draw a steady amperage, so if the voltage goes down, they just don't get as hot. A purely resistive device, like a toaster, does not consume a constant current regardless of voltage; rather, it varies proportionally with the voltage, as described by Ohm's law. This means that, with low voltage, the current consumed also is lower, and the power consumed (and hence degree of heating) doubly lower. The power consumed by an electric motor is a bit complex and depends on what the motor is driving, but for comparatively small changes in voltage around nominal it is often true that the power is roughly constant and so the current varies inversely with voltage. Most modern electronic devices with switching power supplies will behave quite precisely as constant power loads: voltage and current are pretty much exactly inversely proportional, over a wide voltage range, assuming the device is doing constant work. Many are specified to operate on any global utility supply, from about 100V to 250V nominal supply voltages, and in any case fluctuations in line voltage are of little importance with them. (Technically, for AC power, wattage = voltage * amperage * power factor; the power factor is there to account for situations where the current and voltage waveforms are not in phase with each other. The power factor isn't all that important for these discussions. If it's ignored, you're talking about what's termed apparent power, rather than actual power.)
DrewE 04/13/21 10:52am Tech Issues
RE: should Onan gen make noise when applying load and shut down?

The engine is working harder when it's under load, and so will naturally sound louder/different than when not under load. Whether yours is normal or has a muffler hole or something rattling or whatever is another question entirely. Shutting down generally just sounds like any small engine shutting down. If you mean shutting down when under load vs. shutting down when not under load, it's best to avoid shutting down under load if at all possible (and preferably give it a minute or so not under load to cool down before shutting it down finally).
DrewE 04/12/21 01:59pm Tech Issues
RE: Inverter to run outside fridge

120 volt fridge. Rated at 1.1 amps which gives me 132 watts. I am looking at possibly a 180w to 200w inverter. Required starting power for the fridge compressor is probably a lot higher than that; a 600W to 1000W inverter is often the minimum size that will work reliably for a fridge, even a small fridge. The running power is much less than the starting power.
DrewE 04/11/21 12:40pm Tech Issues
RE: Stupid question about tires

..... The only component of air that expands or contracts significantly differently than nitrogen alone is water vapor. ....... Sorry, that is not true. Water vapor behaves like an ideal gas EXCEPT near the dew point. Even a tire with liquid water in it will eventually lose all that water through the sidewalls, and become like the outside air - which is normally NOT near the dew point. Water vapor not near the dew point does indeed act as an ideal gas, for practical purposes. Air from a compressor (at least in somewhat humid climates), if there is no dryer in the line, will be saturated and pretty close to the dew point at the tank pressure, as evidenced by the condensation that collects in the compressor tank. Tire pressure is lower than the tank pressure, which lowers the pressure dew point in the tire somewhat, but it's still well in the range of ambient conditions that a tire is likely to be exposed to. While rubber is somewhat more permeable to water than to air, it's still a very slow process for it to get out. (It's still more permeable to carbon dioxide, and it takes a long time for a tire filled with that to deflate noticeably.)
DrewE 04/11/21 12:37pm General RVing Issues
RE: Battery price question...

- I have not Checked wall-mart or auto parts stores. Where I have found 6V in stock local to me was a battery plus location selling Energizer, a golf cart company selling Trojan, and an interstate store. The price ranges for those 3 locations for a single 6V was $128 for Energizer / Interstate up to $200+ for trojan. NAPA online is $120. I am just not seeing anything below that. I was comparing that to a 90 Ah 12V Interstate for $120 each. This is where I came up with similar AH for similar money with 2 12V . 180 Ah with 12V vs 240Ah with 6V. By the way, we are fine paying a little more, I just wanted to make sure I was not missing something since I read so many posts talking about <$100 6V batteries. A third again more capacity for the same price is not, in my book, "similar Ah for similar money." I suppose it's partly a question of perspective, what similar capacity means.
DrewE 04/11/21 12:24pm General RVing Issues
RE: a good weather radio

Plenty of battery powered weather radios are out there that have weather band coverage. Some CB and FMS/GMRS radios have weather band receivers built-in, as well. It may well be that you were not in an area covered by the weather radio transmitters, or not covered too well. A better radio could be more sensitive and better able to get marginal signals, but some places you just don't have service. You can find coverage maps here.
DrewE 04/10/21 12:13pm General RVing Issues
RE: Trying to level my motorhome

Rather than placing the level on a 2x4, simply put the motorhome where you'd like to park it and put the level on the motorhome floor...and then do the math. There are a couple of advantages to this: first, you get the slope between the actual points where the tires are; and second, if you have any "built-in" slope to the motorhome due to the front or rear riding higher or lower, you take that into account. (It also helps that you have your motorhome handy whenever you want to level it, while many people don't tend to carry 2x4s with them wherever they go.) I made a simple little ruler-like measuring stick awhile ago that was calibrated in number of ramps--I used 2x10s of various lengths with beveled ends, stacked as needed--to get level, measuring up how high one end of the level needed to be raised from the motorhome floor. Once side of my ruler was calibrated for front-to-back leveling, the other for left-to-right. I don't really use it anymore because with practice I can now eyeball it based on the level's height without needing the scale, but it was quite handy at first.
DrewE 04/10/21 12:04pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: New generator for new rv. Recommendations

db ratings are not linear. The open frame unit you reference is rated at 64 db which is a LOT louder than one that is say, 56 db which is more in the realm of enclosed RV type inverter units. Decibels are not linear in terms of power (and energy), but they are pretty near linear with respect to perceived loudness. We don't perceive acoustic power in a linear manner, which is partly why decibels are useful units. An increase of 8 dB is definitely noticeable but not what most people would characterize as a LOT louder.
DrewE 04/10/21 09:54am Beginning RVing
RE: replacing luggage bay latches

Either approach would be reasonable in my estimation, assuming there's sufficient access and clearance for the fasteners and tools needed. Pop rivet tools and pop rivets are affordable and easy to use (and nuts and screws are too, of course).
DrewE 04/10/21 09:43am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Hot water trickle

Are your winterizing valves all fully set in the correct positions?
DrewE 04/08/21 03:30pm General RVing Issues
RE: Brooksville, Fl. to Foxboro, MA

x3 on agwill's route. (I-75 to US301 to FL200 to get to I-95 works nicely; on that route, take Alt 301 around Starke unless you have reason to stop in Starke.) There is one significant climb up Fancy Gap in Virginia on I-77, but nothing you can't manage. There are a couple lesser but still noticeable ups and downs on I-81, and some rolling hills.
DrewE 04/08/21 08:53am Roads and Routes
RE: Surge Guard - Need Vs. Cost

The EMS-PT50X is indeed a good choice.
DrewE 04/07/21 09:31pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Battery observations of winter storage.

The cold will dramatically slow the self discharge. This is true. If memory serves, the rough rule of thumb was half (or double) the rate for every ten degrees Celsius down (or up) in temperature. A couple weeks in Florida summer weather will cause more self-discharge than all winter in a cold (sub-freezing) place.
DrewE 04/07/21 09:26pm Tech Issues
RE: Stupid question about tires

Our mechanic suggested nitrogen in the car tires if we did a rotation as winter approached. Apparentky it doesn't contract and expand as much in the cold and so is better in extreme temps. That was already a few years ago- the fad seems to have died down. The only component of air that expands or contracts significantly differently than nitrogen alone is water vapor. Dry air won't behave much differently at all than pure nitrogen (and air is mostly nitrogen anyhow)--all the component gasses are very well well described by the ideal gas law. Some gasses do interact with rubber a little differently; in particular, carbon dioxide more easily permeates through the rubber itself than most other gasses, though it's not a huge difference and completely irrelevant if your tire isn't perfectly sealed to the rim, or the valve stem leaks microscopically, etc. In some extreme applications, like airliners and race cars, nitrogen is used to reduce fire risks. For ordinary vehicles and trailers, it's pretty much valueless (but not harmful or worrisome in any way).
DrewE 04/07/21 09:22pm General RVing Issues
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