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 > Your search for posts made by 'DrewE' found 867 matches.

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RE: propane campstove

It does not produce more CO than a comparable size burner. The burners on your RV stove are under the vent hood and you are SUPPOSED to unlock the flapper and turn on the fan before lighting the stove or oven. Thus making it a ventelates space.. Same for the grill at your local fast burger joint. It's under a hood. that's why. Not all RV hoods vent to the outside. Not all RVs have hoods over their stoves, for that matter, though the majority do. Partly the warning is to stave off lawsuits. Another part of the warning may be that the camp stove itself may get hot enough to be dangerous for indoor use. Perhaps, too, the regulations or standards for gas appliances used indoors are more stringent than those for outdoor camping ones, and the camp stove hasn't been tested to the indoor versions (whether it could meet them or not). Electric hotplates are not at all expensive and probably would be a safer alternative for temporary use, as well as being handy in their own right once every now and again.
DrewE 08/23/19 04:34pm Tech Issues
RE: My Type Of Warning Signs

From a ski area... https://pbs.twimg.com/media/Bb8a_WwIYAAm9pP.jpg
DrewE 08/23/19 04:28pm Tech Issues
RE: Rindge NH to Jensen Beach Florida

One reasonable possibility is US202 to I-91 to I-84 to I-81 to I-77 to I-26 to I-95 to...whatever makes sense. I-91 and I-84 are not always a great treat with congestion and construction and so forth (and I suspect you may already be well aware of that), but from then on I think it's quite a nice route. It might look out of the way on paper, but in terms of time spent traveling I don't think it's much if any longer most of the time.
DrewE 08/23/19 02:33pm Roads and Routes
RE: Recommend a sealant or caulk

For rooftop use: Dicor self-leveling lap joint compound is the standard stuff. It goes on with the consistency of yogurt, so it's not useful at all for vertical applications (it self-levels down the wall). For other things, I find OSI Quad Max works fairly well and is not too expensive and is available at big box stores. The Max version is definitely nicer to work with than the standard OSI Quad, and the nozzle on the tubes can be unscrewed and cleaned out after storage should it goober up which is a big advantage as far as I'm concerned. This is a polyurethane-based compound, I believe, not too much unlike GeoCel Proflex. For little things like door hold-open catches, plain plumber's putty also works pretty well and is comparatively neat and clean to work with and easy to remove should the need come up.
DrewE 08/22/19 01:08pm General RVing Issues
RE: Best tankless water heaters (LP) 2.5gph or higher

I have yet to hear of anyone really happy with an RV tankless water heater. Maybe there are some people I haven't heard of yet; I am certainly not all-knowing. But they seem to have trouble with maintaining anything like an even temperature with the rather widely varying flow rates that are common in an RV. I believe you mean 2.5 gpm, not 2.5 gph; 2.5 gph is a small trickle, a third of a cup per minute.
DrewE 08/22/19 01:04pm General RVing Issues
RE: dedicated charging station for phones, wifi, tablets

https://www.powerbanktalk.com/best-usb-multi-phone-charging-station-docking/ Looks like link is removed here is the non permalink Clickable links are removed for posters with less than some number of postings--I think the magic threshold is ten posts. This is a spam prevention measure (as often spammers are trying to game Google page ranks by creating lots of diverse links to their site as anything). There is nothing inherently "wrong" or "dangerous" with using an inverter to power a charger or charging station, it's just rather inefficient electrically, and electrical efficiency is a matter of no small concern for people who are camping without utility hookups. A 12V charger is more efficient overall and they are not at all hard to come by nor expensive. I put a little direct-from-Asia one in my motorhome dash; it has two charge ports under a flip-top cover that houses a tiny (watch-sized) analog clock. Since I had no other dash clock that solved two problems at once.
DrewE 08/22/19 08:41am Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Will GFCI work with items without equipment ground

Just imagine if your fridge or freezer was powered by a GFCI..... We have a condo with a den. The den is used as a pantry c/w an upright freezer. Being a den it is powered on the same "anti arc" breaker as our bedrooms. Oh well, you know the rest of the story... From what I've read, AFCI (arc fault circuit interrupters) are far more prone to nuisance tripping than GFCIs. Part of the reason is that some appliances, particularly ones with largish universal motors like power tools and vacuums, naturally have some arcing internally in operation that is not an actual fault or danger. Another part of the reason is that they detect arcs by "listening" for certain noise frequencies on the electrical line (or combinations of noise frequencies), and if you're unlucky some switching power supply or motor controller may generate a little noise that looks enough like an arc to it to trip it. I'm very glad my house predates the AFCI requirements. I'm less glad it predates the GFCI requirements and have been adding in GFCIs where appropriate as I have reason to work on the electric system.
DrewE 08/22/19 08:31am Tech Issues
RE: Will GFCI work with items without equipment ground

The under lying issue with "unexpected" GFCI tripping from an RV sub system is called "stray capacitance" which allows for stray current leakage. Every foot of wire has some stray capacitance and some loads have RFI capacitors across their AC input circuits. All this "Normal Capacitance" soon adds up to be a 5 mA current leakage. That is assuming you don't have a neutral/ground fault somewhere in the RV wiring, or a bad water heater element, or a bad fridge element, or water intrusion in some electrical box, or some other problem. It takes hundreds of feet of Romex to get sufficient capacitive coupling in the cable to be problematic, somewhere around a few thousand feet I think. The current requirements for electronic devices are no more than 0.5 mA leakage in RFI filters, etc. A properly constructed RV, one with no ground faults, generally should not cause a good quality, properly functioning GFCI to trip. I suspect, albeit without proof, that more than a few RVers have actual electrical problems or faulty appliances that go uncorrected because they chalk things up to "RVs and GFCIs don't work well together" rather than looking to see if there really is a problem to be fixed. (I'm also a little surprised the NEC doesn't require GFCI protection for outdoor RV receptacles as they do for standard outdoor receptacles.)
DrewE 08/21/19 01:47pm Tech Issues
RE: Will GFCI work with items without equipment ground

Will it work: Perfectly Does the GFCI care. On some of 'em the safety ground is not even connected. the ground lug better be connected on a GFCI outlet or it is a code violation. And GFCI outlets sold today detect ground/neutral bonding so they must have a connection to the downstream ground. If you have a safety ground conductor available, indeed it must be connected properly, both per the electric code and per common sense. If you have an old electric system which lacks a safety ground, it is permissible by code to install a GFCI and so be able to plug in three prong cords (for grounded devices) without rewiring everything. Such an outlet must be labeled as not having an actual safety ground. Absent the GFCI, only ungrounded (two prong) outlets would be permitted to be installed. Current GFCIs do detect ground/neutral shorts upstream and trip if they are found. I don't believe any of them require that ground and neutral be bonded downstream, but perhaps I am misinformed on that. It's not a universal requirement at any rate.
DrewE 08/21/19 09:40am Tech Issues
RE: Electric steps for RV that did not come with them

You ever catch yourself wanting to step down before checking if the step is there? Not really. Probably one reason is that I'm likely to exit the driver's door when first arriving somewhere, rather than the "main" entrance. It's a little more obvious the step isn't there when stepping up than when stepping down. What I have done a few times is drive off without retracting the step, despite there being an idiot light that Coachmen added on the dash. Luckily that hasn't resulted in any mischief as yet. In my defense I will point out that the idiot light is poorly placed in that the crossbar of the steering wheel very effectively blocks it from view most of the time. (That light setup consists of a reed switch and magnet strategically attached to the step mechanism wired to the indicator light, which I believe is on a chassis run circuit so it only illuminates when the engine is on. It ought not be hard to add a warning beeper, which maybe I should do at some point.)
DrewE 08/21/19 09:29am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Electric steps for RV that did not come with them

I've looked into this, and will be doing this mod soon. The power steps are not an issue, but the controls will be a job.. switch button in the door jamb Switch on the wall signal from the ignition switch Power to the steps. All pretty straight forward, but running the circuits will be a pain. Also, the wire harness for the steps is sold separately, so you'll need to research that, too. You can also go simple with the controls and have just a manual switch similar to a power window switch. It appears that Kwikee calls that the "Standard drive operations and power switch kit." In that case, all you need is power and wires to and from the switch, which generally would be mounted quite close to the door anyhow. My Coachmen class C has this sort of setup, and I have no complaints. They put the switch right next to the entry stairs, near the battery shutoff switch.
DrewE 08/21/19 08:33am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Converter Consumption

Apparent power (what gets added due to a poor power factor) does impose some load on the generation and especially distribution of power, but electric utilities only meter actual power for residential customers; you don't have to pay extra for a poor power factor. Put another way, a standard residential electric meter is measuring and you're being charged only for the actual power, not for the apparent power. The extra gas being consumed by the generator is not going into powering the converter (the converter isn't using any more electrical energy), but rather into losses in the generator itself due to it having a less ideal load attached to it. No doubt that gas and so forth is of interest to a generator operator, but less interest if you're buying utility power and the power company doesn't charge you for it.
DrewE 08/20/19 12:40pm Tech Issues
RE: Converter Consumption

Say your average DC amps is 5 at 13.6 volts all day. That is 68 watts. Efficiency is 85%, so input watts is 80 watts. Converter has PF of 0.7, so VA required is a steady 114.3 VA. Call it 1 AC amp at 115 volts. Whatever that is in kw, for an hour is your kwh. It is unnecessary to apply the power factor in this case; the electric company charges you for kWh, the actual energy used, and not kVAh. In the example, it works out to just shy of 2 kWh each day. (For large commercial/industrial accounts the power factor is taken into account, along with peak usage and other such things...but not for residential users, at least anywhere that I've heard of.)
DrewE 08/20/19 09:04am Tech Issues
RE: Brattleboro, VT to Cooperstown, NY

In my opinion it is OK. It's not an interstate, and it has some noticeable hills and curves and such, but it's nothing I would generally avoid with a motorhome. There are not many if any flat and straight east-west roads in Vermont.
DrewE 08/19/19 08:24pm Roads and Routes
RE: Bike Rack That Won't Interfere with Dinghy

I have a Yakima RoadTrip bike rack (hitch mount) that I use with my motorhome; it's one that is RV rated, and I've been quite happy with it. I'd think something like that would work fine for you. If you have the Jeep, put the bike rack on the Jeep's hitch; if you don't, put it on the motorhome's hitch. If you don't have a hitch receiver on the Jeep, I suspect it would not be overly expensive to get and install one. I certainly would not trust any bike rack attached to my motorhome's bumper. Maybe yours is different and more solidly constructed.
DrewE 08/19/19 10:38am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Battery or no battery????????

You should have a battery. As vermilye points out, the breakaway brake system requires a battery, and in many states this is required equipment so a battery must be present. Some converter designs, admittedly generally not ones that have been made too recently, require a battery to operate properly or to clean up their electrically noisy output. If you ever want to stop quickly when traveling to use the bathroom or make and eat lunch or similar, you'll need a battery to power the water pump etc. All that being said, you certainly don't need to have a big or expensive battery setup for the kind of camping you'll be doing.
DrewE 08/19/19 07:31am Tech Issues
RE: Electricity? Never touch the stuff

When I see the word "phase" in this type of discussion, I quit reading right there because no good information is forthcoming. I hope that's only if it's in connection with the number "two". Last time I checked, "single phase" and "split phase" are perfectly valid descriptions of typical north American household electric service, and they both have the word "phase" in them. :B
DrewE 08/18/19 12:01pm Tech Issues
RE: Shore works ATS in and out on Gen power

It is a violation of the NEC to ground the neutral and shore power in the rig. Shore power is only grounded at the service connection point. The genset must have the neutral bonded to ground. Really. I have worked on motorhomes and Gensets for 40 years. The 120 pigtail coming OUT of a Genset for 50 amp and above Gensets. Has 4 to 5 wires. 2 wires are the Black HOT output 1 or 2 wires(depending on the Genset) are WHITE Neutral wires then 1 wire is the ground output. ALL go straight to the ATS or the 50 amp female receptacle(if no ATS system). At no point is the Neutral grounded... On my RV (and I think it's typical of most proper installations), the neutral and ground are bonded together inside the genset. Both connect to the genset's chassis; in my case, to a little vaguely crown shaped bit of metal that attaches where the main genset chassis ground tie attaches to the genset. If measured with an ohmmeter, the neutral and the ground lines coming out from the genset should show a short. It is true that they should not be connected together at any time for the shore power cord, which is the main reason the transfer switch must switch the neutral as well as the hot(s).
DrewE 08/18/19 11:50am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Is this normal for a 30 amp breaker

no. a 20 amp breaker on a 12 amp load should not be hot. You have a loose connection or loose breaker on the buss bar. I don't know. I really don't. But I'm thinkin the AC pulls more than 12 amps. Starting, yes. Running, probably not generally, or at least not a lot more. 15 kBTU and 12 A works out to an EER of 10.4, which sounds about right. 13 A running would not surprise me. (EER is BTU per watt under some test conditions; SEER is the same, with a specified set of varying test conditions in an attempt to simulate a "cooling season".)
DrewE 08/18/19 07:05am General RVing Issues
RE: LED running lights

LEDs are polarity sensitive, incandescent bulbs are not. Try swapping the leads to the nonfunctioning LEDs. Beyond that, it's standard electrical troubleshooting. Do the lights work when you test them in isolation with a 12V power source? Is power getting through the wires to them? Is your trailer connector solidly connected to the tow vehicle? and so on.
DrewE 08/17/19 08:00am Tech Issues
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