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 > Your search for posts made by 'FIRE UP' found 129 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Decisions

Think about something. If you can;t maintain a 5 how are you going to maintain a Class C. No disrespect intended. Maybe it about driving and towing, hitching up and setup With a class C, it's more simple, less to do, and she can do some of the driving Well, That's a possible answer but, without taking some sort of informal or formal survey, I'd say that about 98% of the folks that travel in either class C's or class A's, ALSO tow a toad. So, you'd still have some form of hook-up and disconnect, before and after a days traveling. The type of hookup and disconnect will of course, be a bit different. A person or, couple can procure say, a 26'-28' class C and then get a small toad that takes literally a minute or two to hook up. Then, they have the versatility to bee-bop around after setting up camp. Maintenance is also a bit difference. Yep, a bit of engine, trans and drive train maintenance is gonna be present, for sure. But, it's not all that hard, especially with a C. Scott
FIRE UP 07/05/19 11:07am Class C Motorhomes
RE: CAT 3126B

Fortunately the OP’s engine had a hand pump, many do not. I would only change a Cat on a hill (nose up) with a full tank plus have the new filter full of fuel changing as quickly as possible. OR, add a Caterpillar hand primer pump if you have the Caterpillar fuel filter base. OR add/change your primary fuel filter to one with a primer pump. Caterpillar primer pump is better as excellent quality and quite a lot higher volume than the "rubber button" primers. Have seen the Caterpillar filter bases with primer pumps on quite a number of Caterpillar products. Would not hesitate to buy the base with pump used. OR, You could install inline shut off valves, like I and many others have and, once done, you can change that single fuel filter or the two, if you have two, when the coach is up hill, down hill, level, standing on its nose, upside down, it won't matter. The fuel will and CANNOT move, in any of those lines if those valves are installed. The OP needs to learn terminology so that we understand what he's trying to ask. "Crank" is cranking the engine. Crank but, WILL NOT START is a whole 'nother ball game. Scott
FIRE UP 06/30/19 11:02am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Serpentine belt

Where do ou have it installed and at what labor costs? Because of the higher heat where the belts are located in a diesel pusher, I would strongly suggest 10 years is twice what I would run. And very likely on the Caterpillar C7 you have a separate V belt that drives only the water pump. It is NOT on an automatic tensioner, so tension needs to be checked and adjusted occasionally. And, replace this belt when you replace the serpentine belt. EXACTLY!!!!!!!!!! We've owned our '04 Itasca Horizon 36GD with the CAT C-7 330HP now for 8 years and have put 42,000 on it since we purchased it. And I've changed that Serpentine belt and the water pump belt TWICE in that time frame. Those belts are waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay too cheap to try and stretch a life span on them especially since we often are on looooooong stretches of baron roads and freeways. So, knowing I've done at least that to help preserve our nice travels, is a great piece of mind. Scott If you're asking me about cost and where or who installed the belts? It was ME. I yanked the radiator and CAC and did all the work myself. It was a bit of work but, it's paid off, twice. On our coach, while it's time consuming, it's not all that hard to pull both the radiator and the CAC. Once those are out of the way, the rest is cake. Scott
FIRE UP 06/22/19 12:05am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Starter solonoid

Is anyone out here had any problems with their starter solenoid going bad? My has just went bad and I thought I would start a thread with some feedback on others having this issue also Well, It would be nice to know what year/make/model/chassis/engine/mileage of what we're trying to help with here. Scott
FIRE UP 06/21/19 11:45am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Serpentine belt

Because of the higher heat where the belts are located in a diesel pusher, I would strongly suggest 10 years is twice what I would run. And very likely on the Caterpillar C7 you have a separate V belt that drives only the water pump. It is NOT on an automatic tensioner, so tension needs to be checked and adjusted occasionally. And, replace this belt when you replace the serpentine belt. EXACTLY!!!!!!!!!! We've owned our '04 Itasca Horizon 36GD with the CAT C-7 330HP now for 8 years and have put 42,000 on it since we purchased it. And I've changed that Serpentine belt and the water pump belt TWICE in that time frame. Those belts are waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay too cheap to try and stretch a life span on them especially since we often are on looooooong stretches of baron roads and freeways. So, knowing I've done at least that to help preserve our nice travels, is a great piece of mind. Scott
FIRE UP 06/21/19 11:42am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Serpentine belt

Have a question on how long is a reasonable time to replace the Serpentine belt on a Cat C-7 engine. It's been 28,000 miles since it was last replaced. Had one break and had a bill of $1,999.00 because it locked up the air condition condenser. Thanks for your recommendations. Branson, Yep, me too on "...locked up the air conditioning condenser....". Now, first thing that's needed is: year/make/model/chassis etc. that we're dealing with here. Lots of coaches were fitted with the C-7 and, in all three versions. The 300, 330 and 350HP versions. Depending on which model coach, length etc, replacing that Serpentine belt might not be too bad. But, on some, it's quite a job. Since 99.999999% of the coaches fitted with the C-7 are rear radiator, as stated, some can be a real bear to work on. A good RV diesel tech, might be able to have the old belt off and the new one on in as little as 15-20 minutes, again, depending on access to it. But, even the best techs can be thrown for a loop in some of these coaches. Scott
FIRE UP 06/19/19 02:59pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Remember the EM 50?

If you haven't already, you ought to see the one they (someone did it) refurbished and modernized at the RV Hall of Fame in Elkhart Indiana. SOMEBODY did a bangup job on that thing. I don't know when that job was done but, it's more modern looking and has more modern features than some of today's '19 models do. I had pictures but, I can't find them. Imagine that. Anyway, it's a seriously nice looking GMC motorhome. Scott
FIRE UP 06/18/19 10:17pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Direct TV turn off date

You boys and girls keep talking about "Unlimited" plans for streaming and things like the Fire stick. Well, the last time we checked, an unlimited data plan was about $10 a month and you had to by a "Jet pack" from Verizon. The Jet pack was somewhere in the neighborhood of $150 or so. And in order to use it, you had to be in a cell site service area. If you were outside of that, you might as well play cards. Or, if you're lucky, your raised batwing might bring something in. We have TWO Fire sticks. And well, I'm just not all that impressed with them. And we use them at HOME, not on the road. It seems that almost no matter what kind of program I want to watch, be it a weekly TV show, or a movie, a very, very large percentage of the time, all I get is buffering. About 95% of what I look to watch, never even comes in because, there's no one streaming it or however that system works. As far as "Loving SD", well, I wouldn't say we LOVE IT, but, we get along with it 'cause it's what we have. We use a borrowed SD Direct box from our daughters place and, it's the lousiest plan there is. "The greatest ladder", hmmm, yeah that's what I want to watch for sure. hahahaha. But, again, it's what we have and use. Sooner or later we'll figure something out. Scott
FIRE UP 05/31/19 04:06pm Technology Corner
RE: Flat tow P/U to carry motorcycle

The MH has a 7500 lb tow rating. Does it matter if the Rangers are 4WD or not for flat towing? Well Sir, Some will grab a 2WD Ranger that's a stick version and tow it. But, I'm not sure what the "Dinghy Towing Guide" says about any 2WD "Stick" version truck, of any make, guess it's worth a look-see. But, we tow our '11 GMC Sierra 1500 Extended Cab 4x4 and, we have a Rampage lift/carrier in the back that carries our '08 Honda GL 1800 Goldwing. The truck weighs right at 5,300 lbs. The lift hovers close to 250 lbs. And the Wing, right close to 900 lbs. So, we're dragging plus or minus, about 6,7000 lbs. with our setup. Scott P.S. Sorry about the picture size. I gotta figure out how to shrink it before posting it. https://i.imgur.com/7QtFNex.jpg?1
FIRE UP 05/30/19 05:51pm Dinghy Towing
RE: 34/35' diesel pusher question. Newbie

Sir, There are 32' and 34' diesels out there. They're not that easy to be had. I myself have never had one. We have an '04 Itasca Horizon 36GD with the CAT C-7 330HP engine. We've owned it now for 8 years and, we've put a mere 50,000 miles on it, and it's got a total of near 90,000 on it. I have driven multiple 34' diesel coaches and have NEVER, EVER experienced any handling problems what so ever. Keep in mind, the shorter the coach, the more of a compromise in floor plans you may have to make. And also, in many, many cases, the shorter the diesel coach, the smaller the diesel engine. In rare, really rare cases, you'll get a larger diesel in a smaller coach, think "Travel Supreme" for instance. If it were me, I'd go for at least a 36' like ours. You'll get a great choice of floor plans, most of the time, you'll end up with a least a 330HP CAT or Cummins but, not always. I have ZERO problems maneuvering our 36' unit in and around campsites, RV parks, parking lots, into and out of our RV garage and a lot more. Your choice. Scott
FIRE UP 05/22/19 07:39pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: 7 PIN TOWING CONNECTOR

I DON'T HAVE POWER TO THE TAIL LIGHT PIN ON THE 7 PIN TOEING CONNECTOR ON THE REAR OF MY RV. ALL OF THE OTHER PINS WORK , BREAK LIGHTS , RIGHT TURN , LEFT TURN,& FLASHERS. IS THE 7 PIN CONNECTOR FUSED IN ANY WAY? AND IF SO WHERE ARE THE FUSSES FOR THE 7 PIN ? ANY & ALL INPUT WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED !!! Well Sir, It would be nice to know what make/model/year/chassis/engine you have so there could be more accurate answers. You see, yes, in some cases, the 7-pin connector is powered up by a totally separate set of fuses, SEPERATE from the ones that power the tail lights. Freightliner does this for most of its diesels. On our coach, an '04 Itasca Horizon 36GD with the CAT C-7 330HP, the fuses for the 7-pin connector are located in a weather tight box, inside the left rear louvered panel. It lifts up just like a compartment door only, it's held in place with screws. So, this is why we need to know the info asked above. Scott
FIRE UP 05/17/19 09:40pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Reno/sparks, Nevada service center

The service manager at the Sparks store, denied that it could have happened there, but Corporate has to.d me, they will pay for the repair. "Corporate has to.d me"??? Scott
FIRE UP 05/10/19 11:02pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Reno/sparks, Nevada service center

Well Gang, Not really pertaining to A/C but, when we needed the valves adjusted in our '04 Itasca Horizon 36GD with the C-7 330HP CAT, I took it to Cashman CAT, there in Sparks. Man, what great service. I was in there at 07:00 on a Monday and, I was driving out, at 09:30. I watched the tech do all the valves and was talking to him as he worked. He was an outstanding tech with lots of valuable info for me. I'd recommend them in a heartbeat, based on your needs and chassis. Scott
FIRE UP 05/02/19 11:58pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: New Tires, should the lug nuts have a re-tighening check?

I've never been told to come back over years of tire changes. No issues. Yep, us too, never been back to a tire service center to "re-torque" the lugs. I've had ours off several times (22.5 Alloys)for whatever service I needed to do and I torque them to 450 ft. lbs. and never, ever re-torqued them. They haven't fallen off yet. Scott
FIRE UP 05/02/19 11:25am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Tow Bar for 4 down

Personally, I wouldn't have one of those ugly a$$ "A-frame" tow bars if ya gave it to me. We towed our first Jeep, a CJ-5 about 35 years ago and yep, a pain in the a.. to hook up. The design and ease of use of today's modern, collapsible tow bars is so superior to those ancient things, it's not even funny. After spending as much as many of us do, to get a nicely deserved motorhome, then a nice Jeep or whatever, don't cheapen out and get a junk tow bar. You can find great deals on Craigslist and other classifieds for used collapsible tow bars that are in great shape with many, many tow miles left on them. Scott
FIRE UP 04/27/19 10:01pm Dinghy Towing
RE: Marker Lights Don't Work

I have a Winnie 04 Ultimate Freedom, which I have driven on several trips for several years. Just decided to check all my chassis lights, and find out that my marker lights don't light. I am assuming that they come on when the headlights are activated. I am also assuming this is the name for the lights on the very top in front and on the spoiler in the rear. Never really checked them before. Checked all fuses, OK. There is a relay space on the fuse panel labeled "MRKR LTS", which does NOT have a relay in it. The space above this one ("DRLM") has a relay that looks like it might fit, but I am afraid to try it. The only thing that I have changed regarding lighting was to put in a new Smart Wheel controller package a couple of years ago. Some of you smart guys or girls probably are experts on this. Thanks for the help. sealevel, Your assumption that your marker lights come on with the headlights is slightly off. In a combination switch, either on the dash or, as part of the turn signal arm, there's usually at least two positions for lighting. The first one, will turn on everything on the exterior EXCEPT the headlights. The second position, activates the headlights. So, no, you don't have to have the headlights on, to activate the marker lights. Yes, those lights waaaaaaay on top of the coach, ARE the marker lights. Now, you indicate that you may be missing a relay for them, in the fuse panel, correct? If so, in most cases, if there's more than one relay in panel, the odds are that each of those relays are of equal value. I'm no automotive electrician for sure but, I have "swapped" relays in order for tests to be accomplished in the past, several times and there has never, ever been any negative effects of using alternate relays for testing purposes. If it were me, I'd use an adjacent relay in a heartbeat, to satisfy my curiosity. But, that's just me. Scott
FIRE UP 04/26/19 03:01pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Brother in Law wants to not get in financial trouble

If losing $80,000 will cramp his style he is best to pass on the RV thing. Outstanding answer. Rving is costly, no doubt about it. No one on this planet can say for certain, that a gas coach or a diesel coach is NOT gonna cost something in the near or, far future. These rolling Kleenex boxes are man made and, ANYTHING man made can and often does, BREAK. 1. Yes, the diesels will cost more up front, based on all factors being equal, year/type etc. 2. Yes, they are a bit costlier when it comes to maintenance due to a lot of factors. 3. Yes, they not only are more heavy duty, which means they perform the task at hand, towing, hauling, braking, handling and more with more ease than a gasser, but, in most cases it's at a more comfy ride too. 4. Most gassers are cheaper, based on again, a give year/make/model etc. vs a similar year diesel. 5. Most gassers are at least somewhat, cheaper to maintain. The average air cleaner for an F-53 Ford, V-10 chassis is around what, maybe $10-$30 or so. Ours is $135.00. 6. Most diesel coaches, have at least one of two different types of auxiliary brakes. Either an Exhaust brake or a Compression brake. Both are extremely helpful in grade braking and, prolonging the life of the service brakes to upwards of around 150K - 175K miles or more. So, that can off-set some of the higher costs of a diesel vs a gas unit. It's really kinda tough to blurt out an accurate answer that's gonna satisfy all angles of approach here. On one hand, you can just advise to go purchase an older diesel (i.e around say, '06-'09 ) or so and be done with it. Or, take a look at the potential floor plans, engines, chassis, maintenance costs, tire size (cost issues there too) and make an informed decision. Scott
FIRE UP 04/23/19 11:07pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Hwy 191 Rock Springs to Moab?

Anyone have experience with hwy191? Maps show lots of it as "scenic byway", and that can sometimes mean big RV's not recommended. It is the most direct route from Rock Springs, Wy. to Moab, UT. so I'm tempted to try it. ?? Also kinda early in spring still if high mountain driving involved? Thanks for replies. Your Route is fine - If you have a few days this might be fun. Hard to not stop and enjoy Flaming Gorge or Dino NM when you have the chance. One More Option, Yep, I'll second that route. We've been on it a couple of times and it's a very pleasant route. And, I also would recommend the Flaming gorge checkout. There's a couple of nice campgrounds right above it that you can base camp and then take the toad down and round the gorge. We've been on the 191 for many of its miles with our 36' coach, towing either our Jeep or our truck with our Honda Goldwing in the back and, it's always been just fine. Scott
FIRE UP 04/23/19 11:34am Roads and Routes
RE: Coleman lantern

Here's the one I was talking about earlier. My son is "borrowing" it to augment the oldies design in my 8 month old grandsons room. Scott https://i.imgur.com/Tzbrb2yl.jpg
FIRE UP 04/22/19 10:23am General RVing Issues
RE: 22,5" rim torque specs

450 is correct but a lot of big tire shops just run them on with a large impact and send them out the door. Well, That's up to the owners of those trucks to allow that practice. Yes, as has been stated, 450 ft.lbs. is quite common on the larger wheels, no matter if they're alloys or not. Ours on our coach, an '04 Itasca Horizon 36GD with the CAT C-7 330HP, are 450 ft.lbs. I purchased a 100-600 ft.lb. click type torque wrench, made by K&D a few years ago off Ebay for $75.00 and it works flawlessly. I use a Torque multiplier for breaking them loose but, then use my hex drive impact for final removal of those 33MM lug nuts. I do what's needed while the wheels are off and, re-install them and use that torque wrench for cinching things down the right way. And no, in decades and decades, I've never, ever re-torqued any wheels, any engine heads, NOTHING after any amount of miles. Nothing has fallen off yet. Scott
FIRE UP 04/19/19 11:56am Class A Motorhomes
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