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 > Your search for posts made by 'Flapper' found 78 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: White House visitor center?

You have to get tickets from your congressman to actually get in to the White House tours. The White House Visitor center is open to all, without advance reservation. It's the alternative your congressman will suggest when you find you can't get in to the White House itself. Just like popular camping spots, try for the White House tours a very, very long time ahead - many months. But they won't confirm anything until two weeks before your anticipated visit, when you find if you've won or have to go to the Visitor Center instead. We didn't get in a couple of weeks ago, so skipped it - spent a lot more time in the various Smithsonian museums instead.
Flapper 04/25/15 04:43pm RV Parks, Campgrounds and Attractions
RE: Battery size question

One item my dealers head mechanic recommended. If you are going to use the on board system for charging, because of the greater capacity (whether 2 6v or a really big 12 v) the installed wiring/fuse systems may not be able to handle the initial current sent to charge deeply discharged batteries. A fuse will blow. They recommended to replace the charge line fuse with a self resetting circuit breaker. It may be a little slower to get everything up to 100%, but you don't have to replace the wiring, etc. to accommodate the additional current.
Flapper 04/23/15 09:02pm Tech Issues
RE: GPS purchase

The app may not need to download data, but ALL cell phones use the cell towers as their primary reference to figure out where they are. Some of the better ones also have GPS receivers, so can do limited locks on satellites, but the accuracy is far less that a real GPS that only uses satellites. So accuracy and updating of where you are can be pretty poor if you are in a no cell zone. Depends on your phone, but a dedicated GPS is far better in that regard.
Flapper 04/22/15 06:46am Technology Corner
RE: Netflix Buffering

I use a Samsung TV that has the built in Netflix device. Provider is Crapcast. It never seems to do it other than in the evening. Gotta ask the obvious - are you running an ethernet cable to your TV, or is it using WiFi to connect to Netflix? The only speed test that really counts is if you have a browser on your TV that can get you to a speed testing web site. Then compare it to the same test on your computer done at about the same time - just make sure that both are using the same kind of connection, either WiFi or ethernet. If the TV is a lot slower, then there is your problem. It may not be receiving the signal very well, if on WiFi - or it could just be slow. If both your TV and computer are slow (and Netflix should buffer on both, if it does it on one in this case), then it may be your router, cable modem or Comcast itself. If on ethernet, bad wiring can also be a cause.... As far as Comcast: everyone else in your area is doing the same kind of thing - your cable connection speed is shared, as everyone is drinking from the same pipe, and if there are lots of others at home in the evening, then everyone's speed goes down, leading to buffering. Then the only solution is to talk to Comcast about some kind of premium service and/or find another provider that either doesn't share, or doesn't share with so many at once!
Flapper 04/22/15 06:34am Technology Corner
RE: Garmin Dezl 560LMT GPS

I have the Dezl 760 and overall like it very much. That said, it has it's limits and you should be careful with what it tells you. One time in Maine it took me on a VERY problematic route to avoid a hazard. Luckily I was not towing at the time (even though it was left in RV mode), or I never would have made it through the narrow residential streets it sent me on. It also tried to send me 200 miles out of the way to avoid a tunnel hazard on the Oregon coast, which I ignored. Turns out the edge of the tunnel was below minimum, but the peak of the arch was 4 feet higher. I was in terror as it kept warning me about the upcoming low clearance, but I kept seeing units taller than mine coming the other way.... There are a lot of places where it tells me that hazard data does not exist, so I end up having to cross my fingers there is nothing ahead that will cause problems, but they are obvious areas where there is no concern anyway. I also have the Rand-McNally version on my iPad, and can't say in the above respects it is any better. I find operating the Dezl to be much better. Love the "lane assist" feature that tells you ahead of time which lane to get in to. Saved me in Chicago multiple times!
Flapper 04/21/15 10:08pm Technology Corner
RE: Rv Park Admission Fee

I stopped to visit family two years ago at a park MN for evening steaks and was charged state sales tax on top of the daily visit fee. Never been back there. How do the MN State Parks work? Do you purchase an annual or daily pass? When you were charged was that on top of what you would typically pay to get into a state park or was this simply the fee to use the park? For Minn. state parks, you can get either an daily or annual pass for entry. Yes, there is sales tax on the pass. Camping is an extra charge. So you need to pay for both. Similar to Michigan. I just wonder if this person was simply charged the day pass or an "additional" fee to get into the campground as a visitor. As far as I am aware, and cannot find anything on the State web site, Minnesota does not charge a "day fee" for visiting in a campground, as long as you have a vehicle permit. There may be individual restrictions on extra vehicles in the campgrounds proper, but there are usually a few places to park just outside, so visitors can walk in. Visitors have to be gone by 10 pm, generally. And, if you walk or bike into the park itself, you do not need a vehicle permit!
Flapper 04/21/15 09:24am General RVing Issues
RE: Northern CA thru Oregon and Washington

We did that trip last summer in June. As has been stated, almost no place to boondock. And you REALLY need reservations ahead of time. We found a possible in Oregon when looking for a remote beach to run the dogs. BUT, there were already a moderate number of "economically disadvantaged full timers" camped there, with their beat down equipment and piles of trash. Got to see local police in action politely requiring them to move on. Good thing we were already established in a State Park, and were obviously tourists on a day trip.
Flapper 04/21/15 09:10am Public Lands, Boondocking and Dry Camping
RE: What do I need to know about purchasing a hitch?

One other factor is weight. If you've narrowed down your options for a fifth wheel, then you have to think about carrying capacity of the truck (pin weight of the 5th loaded, passengers, fuel, and "stuff"). Some of the sliders can be very heavy. A Sidewinder combined with a conventional hitch can save a lot of weight. Many love their B&W hitches, but B&W won't warranty them when used with a sidewinder. I've been pretty happy with my Reese, now called a "Titan" 16K. You can easily separate it into two parts, which makes removal easy for one person.
Flapper 04/20/15 10:35am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Rv Park Admission Fee

I stopped to visit family two years ago at a park MN for evening steaks and was charged state sales tax on top of the daily visit fee. Never been back there. How do the MN State Parks work? Do you purchase an annual or daily pass? When you were charged was that on top of what you would typically pay to get into a state park or was this simply the fee to use the park? For Minn. state parks, you can get either an daily or annual pass for entry. Yes, there is sales tax on the pass. Camping is an extra charge. So you need to pay for both.
Flapper 04/19/15 09:39pm General RVing Issues
RE: oil like substance dripping from television

If you google "leaking LCD TV" you'll see that there are lots of people with this issue, from most brands. In quickly reviewing a lot of the entries, most do not give definitive information. A Sony manual states that LCD panels CAN leak, and the liquid is poisonous and can cause skin irritation. See page 7 here: https://docs.sony.com/release/KDL32SL130.pdf Another reference essentially said the same thing. It sounds like you have semi-hazardous waste leaking into your RV. I'd advise getting rid of the TV right away, and replace with another! From what little is out there, cleanup with soap and water is good enough, just wear gloves, and of course do not let the liquid touch eyes or mouth.
Flapper 04/19/15 09:30pm General RVing Issues
RE: Is Trailer Life a Recommended Read?

Trailer Life is not much different from many other "hobby" magazines I have gotten at one time or another. They all need advertising to exist, and none of them can afford to "offend" advertisers (product or campground) very much. Sure, they sometimes mention something in a negative light (Problem Resolution, for one), or are circumspect in their review. But no one should expect high levels of investigative journalism. What I do use it for is to keep track of the current "state of the art" - what new products are out there, what things may be useful to me, and through their repair/upgrade articles whether a project is in my skill set, or would be beyond me. The destination articles are dependant on what you find interesting - I've been to many of the big name places, so kind of gloss over those - but am interested in the smaller, not so known, possibilities. As for accuracy - at least there is a bit of editorial review/oversight, so hopefully when they tell me about something technical, I can have a little bit more trust in it than what I may get from "some guy" in a forum on the internet!
Flapper 04/19/15 07:05am Beginning RVing
RE: Disinfecting Water Connections

There seems to be a big lack of understanding about municipal water systems, and their safety! Did you know that MANY of the brands of bottled water come straight from the tap of wherever their plant is located? (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=saSgpX186MM) But this is not the place for an extended lecture that will not change many minds, anyway. Using bottled water because of taste preference is fine, but you're not being healthier by using it. Private wells are a different matter, and commercial use (campgrounds) in most areas of the country have to be tested, periodically. Of course, that depends on the local officials, and their level of concern. mowermech hit the issue of sanitation on the head - it takes any practical concentration of a chemical time to do it's work, and many solutions dissipate really quickly. A bleach solution should be in contact for about 5 min. to do it's job, and that solution should be made fresh. In restaurants, that means several times a day, unless they have test kits to verify the bleach is still active. Bleach does NOT clean - it only sanitizes. You need a cleaner - detergent or other, to clean first. Then sanitize. As far as dogs...well, gross as it is, urine is normally sanitary! As any medical professional. And there are very, very few things you can catch from a dog. The bathroom and kitchen is much more contagious for people-to-people transmission problems. Bleach only acts on what it can touch, so if there is a layer of dirt or grim, you'll get a surface that is sanitized, but nothing under it is. Lots of restaurant food illnesses caused because the food residue was only sprayed with bleach, and not cleaned off first. Bleaching a hose bib may make you feel better, but if first you do not thoroughly clean it, bleaching will do little - any "stuff" on it can still come through the water system. Simple flushing with water will take care of far more than a spritz of bleach - and is very effective in removing dog residue, kid spit, and all the rest! Spritz away if if comforts you, but it's not doing anything to keep you healthy, unless you spend a moderate amount of time scrubbing and soaking. Myself - I bleach my tanks a couple of times a year. Flush off all connections before hooking up. Drink the local water. Do use a PUR faucet filter to improve taste. Am thinking about a filtration system to keep sediment out. But it's not something I worry about much.
Flapper 04/16/15 08:23am Beginning RVing
RE: RV Salesman "It's 1/2T towable"

So, this seems to bring up what seems to be the issue: There really isn't a good description of what a "1/2 ton", or "3/4 ton" etc means. The definitions seem to be a general grouping based on an individual's experiences, backed up by assumptions, sometimes unfounded. So making a blanket claim based on those groupings just doesn't hold up. Going back and forth about it will always be comparing one guys apples to another guys oranges. While RV manufacturers don't have much in the way of regulations they have to be compliant with, car/truck makers sure do. To state that the truck makers overinflate their claims is extreme. If their published specs are that their vehicle can pull 11,000 lbs, or carry a payload of 2,300 lbs, that means the tires, axles, brakes and all the rest are engineered to do so. Which means an F-150, so equipped, is clearly a "1 ton" (if we use the really old definition of payload capacity for the grouping). And they would face major legal and financial issues if their vehicles were misrepresented. Sure, there's still some game playing - you have to buy the version that meets the specs. And they will use different versions to make different claims. But none of it is egregious misrepresentation. It's not a "buyer beware" situation, as much as it is a "buyer decide what you need". Back to the RV side - that IS where the misrepresentation, especially for 5th wheels, can be a big deal. We know that the actual limit generally is the payload capacity. But tow weight is used to back up the claim that XYZ RV is "1/2 ton towable". But until regs. equivalent to those imposed on car makers come along, it will continue to be a "buyer beware" situation. Some dealers are honest! At mine, their chief mechanic drives a rig identical to mine! He even temporarily pulled parts off of his to get me through a delay in parts being delivered. And while they had several models the manufacturer said were "1/2 ton towable", they quickly steered me away from the bigger ones due to the payload concerns.
Flapper 04/15/15 10:16am Fifth-Wheels
RE: RV Salesman "It's 1/2T towable"

We pack pretty light. On the scale we are 7,200 to worst being 7,800. You must pack real light. Jayco shows the UVW for the 26.5RLS as 7170lbs.o I'll have to get some refunds from the CAT scale, next time I drive by, I guess!
Flapper 04/14/15 05:52pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: RV Salesman "It's 1/2T towable"

We pack pretty light. On the scale we are 7,200 to worst being 7,800.
Flapper 04/14/15 11:25am Fifth-Wheels
RE: RV Salesman "It's 1/2T towable"

The newer F150 HD 8200 GVWR are rated up to 3300 payload and have a 12000 lb tow rating. All with a V6 engine! Imagine that!!! And made from recycle aluminum beer cans. I think I will just keep my old Dodge/Ram/Cummins! Chris My beer cans will enable me to wave at you as we pass you on that 7% grade.... Seriously, after over 10,000 miles to both coasts, it works good. I am right on the line for weight, but not over. But for most 1/2 tons, they cannot handle most "1/2 ton towable" RV's. There was a lot of homework before we bought the combo.
Flapper 04/13/15 10:01pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Toilet paper - household vs. RV

This guy has become pretty famous with his "how to" videos. Also check out his over the top test on how to clean a black tank for some really good information! http://www.thefitrv.com/rv-tips/toilet-paper-test-from-the-fit-rv-now-with-children/
Flapper 04/13/15 09:54pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: F150 5th wheel towing possible ugrades

I do have the HD payload, and am pulling a slightly bigger 5th than yours. I have scaled mine, and I'm right on the max. payload line. As others have said, the big issues are tires and axle. You could investigate bigger wheels, but I'd think that that is not as easy as just rim and tire replacement. Other mods to the truck - nothing you can do, except mod the whole thing by buying a different one. Everything helps at this point, so load what you can that is heavy in the rear of the RV. If your water and waste tanks are behind the wheels, fill them! Yes, it all adds weight, but it helps reduce the pin weight a little! Strip out anything in the truck you can. Shop for the lightest hitch you can find. Maybe install a rear hitch on the 5th, get a hitch tray, and a big generator to go on it? Strongly not advised, but there could be a passenger left behind...but never the dogs!
Flapper 04/12/15 09:56pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Lithium batteries

Unfortunately, lithium have their own set of things to think about: Special balancing chargers. They are much more prone to catching fire. Should never be left unattended while charging. Need to be partially discharged (but not too much!) if unused for even a couple of weeks. Can't be stored in cold conditions Different voltages than lead-acid, so regulators have to be added. Very attractive due to the energy density per pound, but they need a lot more safety and babying than most people are used to, and then there is the very high cost per amp..... I should add, there is one kind called Lithium Iron (LiFe) that is much safer, and has voltages that approach lead-acid. But, the American company noted for making them (A123) never got solid traction with the electric car market, and is now a shadow of it's former self. Most LiFe's now come from China, so who knows how good/bad they are. Plus the other issues with Lithium batteries noted above still apply to them.
Flapper 04/12/15 04:18pm General RVing Issues
RE: Disinfecting Water Connections

So many opinions, so here's one more: The areas to think about are the ones that do not rapidly dry out, and continue to be moist/wet for longer periods. Things die quickly on dry surfaces. Quick bleaching does little, you need to let it soak for longer periods. For bibs, hose ends and hoses, a flushing with water will be more than adequate before you hook up. But, your water system can sit stagnant for long periods. What it will grow will usually give the water an off or bad taste. At the very worst, you might get an upset stomach - but you'd remember drinking the "funky" water. My Jayco manual recommends sanitizing when new, at the start of each season, or every 3 months of use. Standard is 1/4 cup of bleach for every 15 gallons in your tank. Premix it with a gallon of water before pouring it in, to pre-dilute it. After your tank is full, open up each faucet (hot and cold) and tank drain point, and run until you smell the bleach water. Turn everything off and let sit for 4 hrs. Then drain everything, and flush system with fresh water as needed to remove bleach smell - may take a couple of tank fulls. You can speed it up to a 1 hr wait time by doubling the bleach, but I've found an awful lot more flushing is needed. Make sure to flush hot/cold and drain points - forgetting one can leave a "pocket" of bleach water that can remix into the system. Won't hurt you, but may make everything smell bleach-like again. You'll hear advice to not bleach the hot water heater - not true, things love growing in the warm water! And this level will not harm anything. True, most city water has chlorine, but its concentration is very low, and it quickly disappears from water, so cannot be used to sanitize a system - ask anyone who owns a pool! It just prevents anything new from being introduced. Finally - always make sure to use the white "RV/Marine" water hoses! While there is a lot of concern about any use of plastics from some people, regular garden hoses do not need to meet any standards for being "food safe", so you can be ingesting all sorts of nasty things. At least the white have been tested to meet some standards of safety. And again - a sip from a garden hose is different than getting all your daily water for days/weeks/months from the same hose. Save the garden hose for black tank flushing, etc! PS - just saw the previous post about using 1 cup per 5 gallons - that is an extreme amount! The amount I gave gives you 50 PPM (part per million), which is about 20 times the amount in an average swimming pool. The higher amount will give 500 PPM, or 240 times the average pool! With that much, you would be moving into possible damage to heater cores, etc. So keep it low and slow!
Flapper 04/09/15 08:20am Beginning RVing
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