OK, as a Revolution owner, I've been there, done that!
1. Read the instructions, and make sure to grease the back side of the king pin as they describe. Makes a huge difference.
2. As noted, make sure you have removed all forward pressure, by backing up and setting the parking brake.
3. Also as noted, relieve some of the weight. I usually lift the fifth until I just start to see the pin box and hitch start to barely separate, then I drop it back down some to put weight back on the hitch.
4. Revolution advises getting the wedge pretty tight into the hitch funnel when installing. Mine was just too tight! An adjustment to get the wedge seated, but not jammed into place, may be in order. If you have any play, though, you can get wear on the wedge, which can rapidly get very bad. This made a world of difference between my first and second Revolution (see below!)
5. Make sure you are straight! Centerline of the truck running through the center of the pin box, which is square to the trailer. For whatever mechanical reason, having the truck and pin box angled off from the fifth, even a little, seems to make it much harder to unhitch/hitch!
There are still times I have to move the truck forward and back against the landed fifth to get to a point where I can release the jaws. But I've not needed a crowbar, ever! Of course, it seems to happen mostly in the rain.....
Not related, but if ever having service, the pin box can be locked with bolts, so it is easier for the service guys to move it with their tractors. MAKE SURE THEY HAVE REMOVED THE BOLTS before you drive away with your newly serviced fifth! It was really, really bad when this happened to me - new pin box and new hitch, plus costs to make sure both fifth and truck frames were not bent! Luckily, my dealer owned up, and repaired and covered all costs!
I'd be hesitant. On my 2012 F150, the dealer tried to convince me I had to replace all 28 of mine, because they were "swollen". Apparently most of the fancy lug nuts are two piece - interior steel, with a dress "cap" of some other metal to give it the fancy look. Salt, sand, road grime can get between the nut and the cap, causing them to "swell", to the point where a lug wrench won't fit anymore. True solid steel are much pricier than the set you posted. $5 to $10 per nut.
I talked to the tech doing my tires and she said "I had no problem, one is just a bit sticky in the socket." I declined the dealer's offer to "fix" the problem, especially because they could not get solid steel ones!
That is why I run a Garmin RV760, it will let know where the low overpass are. It warmed me of a railroad overpass down at Beaver Lake Arkansas that would of required me to back up about mile on heavy travel road and turn around in a very narrow private driveway. It is worth every penny I paid for it and even has free upgrades for life.
Well....except that it's database only knows what has been pointed out before - the clearance posted is usually the least. My Dezl 760 tried to reroute me hundreds of miles away and then back to 101 in California. And it is almost impossible, sometimes, to find why it decides to take the long way. Not until I was a couple of miles away did it start to scream at me about low overhead ahead. No possible way to turn around on that highway! Several RV's coming at me in the other lane, so with white knuckles, I forged ahead. Came to a tunnel, clearly posted as 11'6" (I'm 12'), but the opening was arched, so by being close to the yellow line, I cleared by several feet. Maybe if I had been as far over on the shoulder as possible, I might have touched.
Not saying to ignore it, as it sort of did it's job - but we would have missed a lot of spectacular scenery if we trusted it without knowing why it was telling us not to go!
Some people do believe the RV anti-freeze is completely toxic free. I do not!
Read the label on the bottle. Then read the labels on the foods you buy. You've been consuming it your whole life, unless you never have bought anything canned, bottled, bagged or boxed at the grocery store.
... So the water at either end will freeze first and block any expansion for the water in the middle. Will that be enough to burst your pipe? ...
Yes it will. There have been lots of studies. It isn't the ice that bursts the pipes, as it usually has a place to go. It is the trapped water between two pieces of ice, that can build to a very high pressure and burst the pipe, water being incompressible and all.
No, I don't put antifreeze in the lawn sprinkler system, but I do in my pool (12 gal per year!)
Some systems have 3 valves on the tank side of the heater. You may have to find them by removing an access panel on the inside of your RV. Two normally open, to allow cold water in and hot out. One "bypass" closed. In winterizing, after blowing out all the other lines, the last thing is to pull the tank plug to blow/drain anything remaining in the heater.
If you are also going to use antifreeze, you close the hot/cold valves, and open the bypass. Then use the water pump to push the antifreeze through the entire system. (it too has valves to stop taking the water from the tank, and instead pull from a short hose that you stick into a bottle of antifreeze - usually found right near where the pump itself is mounted). The heater bypass is done so that you don't have to fill up the heater with 3-6 gallons of antifreeze before it begins to get to the rest of the plumbing!
My fifth wheel needs about 2 gal of antifreeze to do everything, and I get a little liberal on what I pour down the drains.
Takes me about an hour, but could easily be done a lot faster.
The dealer charges $145 to do it!
To recap, in terms of my method and experience with my unit:
(And, I should note, I do both as a belt and suspenders thing because it gets REALLY cold in Minnesota!)
All water and holding tanks should be completely empty to start. Run your water pump as needed to drain the water tank.
You can open the gray water valves, as you will be only dumping clean water on the ground, and perhaps a little antifreeze, which is safe and completely non-toxic. Leave the black tank closed.
Unhook shower lines and let hang.
Hook compressor up to city water outlet, using adaptor noted in another reply. Set to 40 lb (Jayco recommended). Start air flow.
Progressively open each faucet, both hot and cold, until just air comes out. Do not forget showers, toilets and any outside faucets. Open "Low Point" drains, and again make sure only air comes out. It may surprise you on how many repeats of the above you need before you get all the water out.
Turn off air for a minute. Open a faucet to relieve pressure. Pull main drain plug from the heater. Turn on air again, and blow out any remaining water in the heater.
If not using antifreeze, you're done - go to the drains (following).
If using antifreeze, set the heater valves to bypass the heater. At the pump turn off the water line from the water tank, and turn on the suction hose, put it in a bottle of antifreeze. Run all taps until pink stuff comes out. Include toilet, showers (with hoses detached), outside taps and low point drains.
Drains - pour antifreeze down drains - about a cup, more if you haven't already put some down by running it through the taps. Don't forget shower and some in the unflushed toilet.
Close gray water valves.
Reset the valves for the water pump to be able to draw from the water tank again. Leave the heater bypassed.
You can get by not using a compressor at all, and just pump antifreeze through everything. It will probably take more to ensure that you've replaced all the water with antifreeze. Still do the heater bypass thing, but you'll be letting it drain naturally, rather than forcing anything out with air pressure).
In the spring - don't forget to reset the heater bypass valves! Otherwise, just run all water a lot to flush out the pink stuff.
The front hitch idea may be the least problematic, if possible.
I pretty regularly can spin tires on a ramp with my F150 trying to get the 3,500 lb boat out of the water. Far worse if there is an undercut on the end of the ramp due to people driving their boats up onto the trailer.
My only solution - put 'er into 4WD, which is one of the many reasons I got that. Of course not an option on yours....
You could consider softer, heavily lugged tires - something for mud and snow, etc. But that may hit your gas milage, ride, and not wear as long.
Carrying sandbags is an option. Both for the weight over the rear axle ( a proud tradition in all of our cars back in the day here in the north country), but you could also spread the sand under the tires to get more grip....
Or there are light weight metal grates that go down in front of the tires, to help reduce slip. Although in snow, I've seen those sometimes shot rearwards, which may not be what you want with a boat behind.
The ultimate - trade-in, and get a 4WD pickup, with a camper back!
Just came back...
There is also a full hookup private campground just outside the north entrance - not ritzy, but not a bad spot, either. We tented there about 4 years ago. That's when we decided to move up to an RV - not because of the campground, but because of the tent!
There are many others a little ways away - we stayed at Stoney Point Resort in Cass lake (about a 45 min drive from Itasca) this past two weeks.
Many long, paved bike trails in the area - Paul Bunyan, Heartland, etc., so bring the bikes, also!
Also check out Bemidji State Park, just north of the town of the same name, about 1/2 hr from Itasca.
Depends in Minnesota on where. Further north you go, the colder (duh!)
For the far north (near Canada) very late May and all of June, or September to early-October are the prime periods. I've had some cold (but not freezing) fishing trips up near International Falls the first week of June, but mostly 60-mid 70 degree days, with 40-50 degree nights. We've had very rare blizzards as early as Halloween in the Twin Cities, but usually late into October is great mid-state and south. This past two weeks near Bemidji (mid-north) it was great - lows around 50, highs in the mid-70's to 80. July is usually good all over, although getting warmer further south. August can get steamy - high humidity, temps 80-90 plus. Cooler up north.
Wisconsin would generally follow the same pattern. Close to the Great Lakes, things tend to moderate - not so hot, but not so cool, either.
The one year we went to Maine (Acadia) in May, it was about the same.
Well, this thread has devolved into the usual "how big a truck" debate, but to report to the OP my own specifics:
2012 Crew Eco, Max tow, Max pay (3.73 gears). Just returned from a 250 mile each way trip requiring towing the 8,300 lb fifth, return empty, then tow the 3,500 lb boat. All highway - combo of speed limits of 70 mph, 60-65, and small town 35 mph stretches. Yes, did the route 6 times in two weeks!
Non-towing: 20.5 mpg one way, 21.8 the other.
Pulling boat: 17.2 one way, 16.8 the other.
Pulling Fifth: 8.8 one way, 9.1 the other.
As daily driver, non-towing, around town, summer average 16.5, winter about 14.5
With fifth wheel:
Trip Minn. to Maine and back, 11.5 overall
Minn. to Calif, Oregon and back, 10.3 overall.
Minn. to Mobile, AL and back - 10.1 overall.
When towing the fifth, wind makes the biggest difference by far. Was bucking 20 mph winds both times on the latest trips reported above (why are they headwinds going both ways???)
Ford notes, and my experimenting agrees, that you can see up to a 10% improvement in mileage by using premium, which I usually do when towing, except for this last round of trips, as the price difference between regular and premium was far more than 10%, and I didn't really care about getting the additional range before refueling.
On the Mobile trip, a cracked connector disabled the turbos so yes, suddenly it became very hard to tow the fifth with what became a small V6! But otherwise, all has been fine. Have done many 6%+ grades with the fifth up and down for long distances with no issues. Can pass anyone I want, going up, if I want. Engine braking going down in tow mode worked well (but I cannot compare to a bigger engine, so can't say if it is better or worse).
tables store your data
queries let you view the data you want to see
forms let you enter your data
don't confuse one with the other... they each have their own function... people get confused when trying to make one do something it's not designed to do.
Once I have my tables and forms set up, I then set up my queries how I want them. Then If I have to I can extract the query results into excel.
Excellent thumb-nail summary!
Databases are great at keeping your data organized. Spreadsheets are great at doing math! Excel has, of course, been given many database-like functions, but at it's heart, it wants to add numbers, not keep track of lists! Access, however, is pretty hard to do math with. So there is a place for each. It does get hard though, when you try to convince one application to mimic the abilities of the other! The row-and-column formats each starts with seem like they should be similar, but beyond the representation on screen, they are pretty different beasts. And let's not discuss all the people who type documents, memos, etc. using Excel rather than using Word!
I would be careful to make sure you shut Google Maps down after you use it, lest it suck up a lot more bandwidth tracking your every move even when you are not using it. It also uses battery power, of course, if still running in the background.
For folks who don't know about it, apps remain running in the background at all times, unless you shut them down. Here's how you do that on iOS 7 and later: while on the home screen, press the home button twice. A parade of currently running apps will appear. Shut down apps you aren't actually using by flicking them upward so they disappear from the parade. When you want to run one of them, launching it as usual will bring it right up with perhaps a half-second more delay than usual.
Apps that constantly ping both your bandwidth and your battery, such as maps, Siri, email, and many others, as well as any app you use rarely, are best left in shut-down state.
That listing is NOT of currently running Apps! It is a listing of "Most Recently Used" - it is a purely alternative way to get to your favorite apps.
Use of Cell data, Location Services, Background Refresh and Notifications are the primary options many apps have to improve their performance - and THOSE are the options that can drain battery or use data unawares. But it is a myth that the apps you see are running - doing as advised to "kill" them has no impact on the use/non-use of data/battery. All you are doing is removing them from the screen. You have to set the options noted to control their behavior.
You're pushing the weather envelope a little with your desires, but not too much. Just assume that it will be at or a bit below your minimums.
For fall color, see here: http://www.dnr.state.mn.us/fall_colors/index.html
The DNR predicts that this year will be right at about average for timing, except in the far NE, where it has been dry, so may be a little early.
Yep - another vote for a full sine wave converter. ALSO, look on the label on the back/bottom of the CPAP to find out the watts/amps it draws (watts = volts x amps). Info should also be in the full manual. Get an inverter at least 25% bigger than the CPAP needs. Also get a remote on/off switch for the inverter if you plan on mounting it somewhere harder to get to - inverters draw some power all the time they are on. Keep your 12v wires as thick and as short as you possibly can. It's OK to then run an extension cord from the 120v side to your CPAP.
I mounted my inverter in the baggage compartment, right next to the battery compartment. Then have a long extension cord snaked up into the TV area (which is primarily what we got it for). But the cord is long enough to get to the bedroom for my CPAP.
Haven't dry camped for long periods, but over 3 days, it didn't seem to shorten the battery life significantly from what I was getting before.
I used to create full Access applications for business.
The key concepts here are to create tables listing "entities", and then defining their "relationships". The challenge is deciding what an "entity" is. As a simple example, you might decide that "Cassettes" is an entity - that will be a specific table. It would then have "characteristics" that you want to keep track of: Name, date acquired, condition, etc. Every cassette entry describes one specific object - it may be you have two of the same, and maybe the only difference is when you acquired it, which is fine to enter, as all the info together uniquely identifies one specific cassette.
The second "entity" might be "Songs", which would be the song titles. In this example, you would initially only list each song title once. Do NOT list anything that is already recorded in the "Cassettes" table!
Then you decide what items in each table make the line unique - if you have to combine cassette name, date, and condition to uniquely identify a specific cassette, then you can add another column named "cassette ID" as a primary key to uniquely identify it instead. (You don't have to, as you could use the name-date-condition combination as a primary key all the time, but that gets cumbersome for you to deal with. The "ID" is just a shortcut to make things less complicated.) Whether you assign the ID number, or let the computer do it, is up to you. Access defaults to doing it itself, but you can opt out (or change/delete it afterwards) when creating the table. But, you do have to have a primary key of some kind.
Ditto on "Songs" - either just use the title as the primary key, or create a "Song ID" number as a primary key.
Then you make a third cross reference table, that only lists the two primary keys: "Cassette ID" and the "Song ID". That is the place where you link a song to a specific cassette. That way if the same song is on multiple cassettes, you don't have to re-enter all the information in the "Song" table.
OK - what about Artists? In pure design, they would be their own table. And there would be a cross reference table to "Songs". And by linking everything in a query, you could easily find every cassette that has Paul Simon on it. Or all the Paul Simon songs you have.
But, as you can see, things get complicated fast, if you want to be really pure about the design - you'll have lots of entity tables, and lots of cross reference tables. Access does a great job of allowing you to create forms that have parts of all the tables presented on one screen, so it looks like you are entering everything in one spot - and managing all the ID's for you. But that gets more advanced than you probably are at this point.
Just don't get too OCD about trying to figure out what is an Entity in it's own right, and what is a characteristic of another entity.
So, it is permissible to have a column in the "Songs" table that lists the Artists name, instead of a separate Artists table (we've now decided that the Artist is just a characteristic of a song, not an entity in it's own right). Just means you have a bit more typing to do when entering a song covered by more than one artist - and the song title will be no longer unique by itself, so you probably would want an ID column, if you didn't already have one.
Sounds like it is time for you to go get a used book! "Access for Dummies" is excellent, as are the ones by Microsoft. Don't worry if you can't find one for your exact version - you are looking for one that will cover concepts. So any version reasonably before or after yours will do. Some of the "how to specifically do it" will be different, of course - but not outrageously so.
And don't forget - almost none of the "nastys" can survive without water. Typically your inlet dries out pretty quickly after being used, and stays dry for a pretty long periods of time. You only really need to get the sanitizer down in the pipes, where it is still wet. Wipe the road dust/dirt off, though - that just tastes bad.
We're looking at an extended trip to Alaska.
While there are a lot of things to do to make sure my truck is in top condition (tires, brakes, etc., etc.) what bothers me is what I don't know.
For example - mine came off the line a couple of months before they made modifications to fix issues with water build up in the turbos. Because mine has not exhibited problems, the dealer doesn't want to do the update (even if I would pay for it all).
Given a problem we had with the truck going into limp mode while towing this spring (bad wiring connector that there was a service bulletin about - thank goodness we weren't too far from a major metro area), I am of course skittish about something similar while way off in the wilds.
Any resources anyone can direct me to that could be helpful in discovering above and beyond things that might be considered for updating, beyond established maintenance? Just want to do whatever I can to make sure the truck will be as close to 100% as we can be....
KOA's are like Holiday Inns used to be, or Howard Johnson's. We pretty consistently use them when on the road because of the usually dependable minimal standards. If there is a high rated alternative in the area, we of course will take that. But many times, it is "Joe's Slum" vs KOA.
In the end, my benchmark is pretty much always - what would we have paid if we didn't have an RV and this was a Motel 6? $40-$65 in a tourist area is still a deal, especially if it is for a shorter time. For destination stays, I'll look harder for alternatives, but either way, campground pricing is generally the least of my concerns.
Just upgraded from 7 yesterday. Haven't found anything that doesn't work - but I never play DVD's anyway. Sure, it wants to connect you to the Cloud and share lots of stuff, but it gives you the option as installing to customize and turn off those things. They've actually done a pretty good job of notifying you as to what will be shared, when, and what to do if you don't want that to happen.
Since my machine is fast, but older, I don't have the fancies - no touchscreen, microphone, camera, etc. so I can't say it is a big improvement from Win 7, but it is on the plus side, and looks to be a keeper.
Don't jump to conclusions about where/how your number was stolen. It may have been at someplace that got hacked a year or two (or more!) ago, and your number finally came up to be used. Very frequently, especially in the large breaches (Target, Home Depot, etc.) The thieves sell a huge batch of card numbers to others for resale. There are web sites where you can buy as many card numbers as you want. Then the purchaser makes their own cards, and takes them out for a quick spin - usually only a few places as the banks are pretty good about detecting questionable transactions. Frequently the purchase will be Gift Cards from convenience stores, which are untraceable, and therefore are then a guaranteed source of spending.
It's pretty rare for people using skimmers to turn it around the next day - they are gathering lots of numbers for their use, or for resale - so yesterday's gas station use is unlikely to be the reason you got hacked.
ALWAYS report this to the police! They may not be able to do anything specifically for you, but it aids them tremendously in detecting a pattern in an area, and being able to zero in on the bad guys. Just yesterday a pair from out of state were arrested after police were alerted that they were using numbers from last years Home Depot breech in our area.
Secondly - always demand a new card number from your bank! Most do it as soon as notified, but never assume...
The mandatory conversion to EMV chips in the cards this summer/fall should help reduce this kind of thing a lot!