Just to give comments for the other side -
Using the Revolution means you can get by spending far less for a hitch. And also means saving a good bit of weight in the back of the truck. Both were important considerations for my smaller rig. And I really wanted a hitch that was manageable by me to take in and out of the truck, leaving the bed clear. Only two downsides to the Revolution I've found so far: It is critical to get a straight on shot to it when hooking up, or it can give you fits. And, when leaving it at a dealer, they pin the hinge point to make it easy for them to move around their lot - but it gets really, really bad if they forget to remove the pin before you hook up and drive off.....
Thanks All! I appreciate the variety of sources cited so we can begin identifying dream trips/locations. One additional question about scenic by-ways: Are there ones that you would advise leaving the fifth wheel in the campground, whether due to the route itself, or lack of available space to pull off to enjoy the scenery?? And, the opposite - which ones have you driven that are great for use as ways to get to new places?
For example: I love the Beartooth highway, and Going-To-The-Sun road. But on neither would I ever pull a fifth (which might be banned, anyway....)
On the other hand, the North Shore Scenic by-way here in Minn. is great for camp-here, drive a bit and camp there, type travel.
New to RV travel, one big trip under our belts. Now looking for future trips. Would love to have a list of resources that describe great RV trips across the country. Especially descriptions of great routes to take/routes to avoid, cool less-publicized places or things to do, etc.
Obviously, this site. Have gathered several travel books (many of which do not cover information in the context of RV travel),and started to get the various RV magazines. I've run across a couple of web sites where people blog about their trips.
What are your go to resources for suggesting the next great trip????
Thanks all. I hadn't considered the problem of salt damage. Ish. I was thinking along the lines of unburying it from mounds of snow and ice on and around it, if I store somewhere where there is no service for that. Especially if it is a period of the temps being in the single digits.
Dewinterizing should not be too much of an issue. Rewinterizing on the road if we come back before spring....hmmm, I may need to pack a compressor.
Bought the 5th last spring, greatly enjoyed it the past summer, and expect to use it a lot in the coming years.
Our northern area is known for the depths of snow (feet!) and cold (-30!) over the long winter. With retirement approaching, we'd love to head to southern areas for one or two longer (3-4 weeks) trips over the winter, as well as heavy use during the warmer months.
Currently, no plans to leave our permanent residence. We do not have the ability to keep the unit on site, so need to rent storage space for it when not in use.
The current storage (from our dealer) is on a month-to-month as available basis. They are willing to pull it out, and even assist with snow/ice removal (I assume for a fee) if we want to go somewhere, say in January. We'd be looking at a minimum 2 day drive before we get to climates where we could even think about actually getting it back into service (depending on weather, of course).
What alternatives can you suggest or have you done? Find indoor storage (I assume rare and expensive)? Plan trips so it can be stored in a warmer area of the country, and drive a couple of days to get it? Or are there other suggested ways to get more year-round use of it? Thanks for any and all advice!
To me this is a design flaw not unlike the need to move and stack heavy recliners in some rear living models. I was drawn to that layout until I realized the slides would not close until I swartzeneggerd the furniture. Forget it. I did think the sales person should have mentioned it but of course he didn't.
I have to agree on the issue - sometimes the design is not completely thought out. I bought one of those units where I constantly have to "swartzenegger" the chairs. I hate it...but I neglected to check it out before buying. I did sit on the potty, laid in the bed, and tried to mimic using things as much as I could while on the lot. Just missed running the slides in and out and the impact the chairs have. To the OP - same thing, it should have been caught before you bought. And if it was an issue, don't buy. While I would share the dissatisfaction with the manufacturer, I would not dream of expecting them to fix it. It was something easily seen when deciding whether this was the 5th for you - not something hidden or that breaks well before it would be expected to....
I just got my first last year. And while there may be LOTS of opinions about who is better than who for quality (whatever that may mean) - the fact is that Jayco is one of the very few to offer a full 2-year warranty. And they very, very rarely crop in the tales of woe posted about something going very wrong (and not supported) after the end of the warranty.
The dealer did step up - Kudo's to Hilltop Trailers in Minnesota!
They picked up the fifth from my house after the weekend, and installed a completely new hitch in my truck. They did not have a new revolution on hand, so the service manager took all the parts off of his personal one, to enable us to get on the road for our final trip. He did "like new" repairs to the pin box. A new Revolution was ordered, and is being replaced (with a completely new pin box) while the unit is in storage over the winter. There were lots of people from all levels of the dealership apologizing to us when we picked it up for the trip. No other damage seen to the fifth or the truck. While their mistake, I'm glad we decided to buy from them, rather than squeeze out a bit more savings from the internet dealer we were seriously considering. A class company that does care about making it right.
We got our 2013 26.5 RLS early this spring, and risking all advice against going on a long trip without an adequate shakedown period, went on a 3 week, 4,000 mile journey, and a few long weekends since.
EVERYTHING was/is perfect. Yes, I had my share of newbie adventures, but the only warranty item we could come up with was the outside shower handle dribbled if using the shutoff on the handle....and we still have another camping season to go on the warranty. I used all the long delivery checklists when we got ours, and the only issue was the living room slide that stuck - quickly repaired by the dealer, and flawless ever since.
I would HIGHLY recommend it for any couple that wants a lighter 5th. To my mind, it would be crowded with more than 2-3 people, but that is a function of size, and not the fault of the brand.
My FW (see sig below) has knock outs for a genny but I never looked into what brand/size. Installing one would certainly push me over my payload.
As far as towing a FW with an EB; sure I get 10-12 towing but I also get 18-22 when not towing. And that all depends how I drive it. I had to haul aurse from Junction to San Antonio doing 85 yesterday and I got 18.4mpg doing it. I can't complain.
I have to back the second part of this up - but can't answer the OP's need for a generator compartment. 4K trip this summer was at 11 mpg, Minn to Maine. Mixed city/hwy is about 17. Best ever was 20.5.
If you match the rig to the truck, it is fully capable. Bigger may be better for both truck and 5th, but everything costs. If a generator compartment is mandatory, the OP will have very limited options. But if I put the gen. on my 3K rear hitch on the 5th, I actually subtract from the pin weight, and stay far below the overall limits of my setup.
My error - I noticed the clock after I plugged it into shore to recharge. It likely wasn't on when just on battery.
Thanks for the rough estimates of expected powered down (but not off) life. Kind of what I was assuming. And, unfortunately, kind of what I was assuming about what I did to the battery....
The silver lining - I wanted to get a type 31 AGM as a replacement anyway. Now I have a reason to dig into the details of the built-in charge system to make sure it will properly charge an AGM. Or I install the spare high end dual channel trolling motor charger I pulled out of my boat last year, and put in two 31 AGMs!
On a slightly different note, there is a master power switch in the battery compartment. Would be nice to have a sub-master in the main switch panel inside, that cuts off everything except the emergency brake and the jacks. Sounds like a nice retirement project next summer...
What's the common wisdom here? Over in the boating forums, everyone strongly advocates removing the battery, and storing inside, before putting the gear to bed for the winter. (Minnesota. -30F a possibility). I've taken to leaving my fully charged AGM's in the boat, not on trickle, all winter, without any issues for the last several years. But in the RV, it is a lead acid. Opinions?
Sorry, no facts and figures yet, so it's tough to do the math...but...Proud new owner of a Jayco 29.5 RLS Fifth. Used it 3 weeks in May, and for 4 days this past weekend. While in the driveway after the May trip, and not plugged in to shore, DW left a couple of lights on. Did not notice for many days (a week?). Battery totally dead. Plugged into shore, and let the built in charger do it's thing. Left it plugged into shore for a couple of weeks. Sent the trailer to the dealer for some work, and temp storage, and after a month got it back with again a totally dead battery. Recharge again for a few days, and went camping with shore power the whole trip. Showed 100% at the campground on Sunday. In the last 24 hrs, we operated the 2 slides out, in and out, lowered the front landing gear, used three lights for about 1/2 hour, and it otherwise sat with the entertainment center on standby, and the microwave clock running. On board charge indicator now shows battery down to 25%.
I have not opened the battery box at all, but assume it is a group 24.
Any WAG about how much current draw I put on it with the above? The life seems very, very short.
I will, of course, take the box apart and check the levels (and verify what I actually have in there) in the next day or two.
Without being dishonest, do I have any claim with the dealer on warranty for the battery - or is it likely I did it to myself with the very deep discharge?
Crossing my fingers on this one. Reese says in previous instances that they know about, the damage is primarily to the pin box and hitch. Little to no damage to the trailer frame or the tow vehicle. Ford has given my truck the green light. Jayco supports their dealers, expecting them to be able to handle anything. This particular dealer has been around for a very long time, has great facilities and grown their business even during the recession. Not a smaller one working to get buy with a run down, poorly equipped shop. So hope springs eternal...
Well, I'm still assessing what gave where to allow it to work at all..
The hitch itself is definitely messed up. Jaws don't quite align when closed, and when opened the right jaw will not retract on its own. The pivot point where the hitch head mounts to the base shows dents on either side, on the front and back, indicating that the whole head was being twisted hard in the turns. No obvious damage to the truck bed, but I will be having that inspected. Now I'm fretting about the frame of the 5th itself. Nothing obvious from the outside, but the forces were obviously very high. How to figure out if there are damages is beyond me, but I worry about stress cracks or things just plain being twisted that may lead to future problems. Looks like the failure of the wedge, the hitch, and the slack around the bolt was enough to allow pivoting around one or the other pivot point. It's what else had to give to also allow it that is the question.
The very first reaction from the dealer was "We sell a lot of those, our guys wouldn't do something like that." To their very great credit, they called a two hours after receiving the pictures, and said "Yes, we did make a mistake. We'll pick everything up at your house first thing Monday, and take care of it all, in time for your trip next week." No excuses, no arguing.
I'll call Jayco, and see if I can get their opinion as to next steps for the frame and how qualified the dealer is to assess it. And be on the lookout for any attempt to "repair" rather than replace with all new.
Picked up our 5th from storage at the dealer last night. Had two service managers look at it after hitching because I historically had problems with the Reese Revolution being very hard to hitch/unhitch. They were not very knowledgeable about it, and asked me to bring it back so their 5th wheel guy could look at it. I left. There was more "clunking" than I had remembered - but this is still all pretty new to me. Drove the 15 miles, and did a tight 90 deg. back-in to the driveway. Unhitching, the Reese R16K hitch, even when fully open, would not release at all! After trying much back and forth, crawled into the bed of the pickup to see what was going on. Immediately saw that the "wedge" for the Revolution was severely bent and mangled. One of the two hitch jaws was jammed closed. Got a crowbar, and managed to pop it open. Then the truck would unhitch. Looking at the twisted metal, spotted the bolt put in the rear hole of the Revolution. Obviously, one of the dealers guys had put it in so they could move it around their yard with whatever conventional "hitch" they have on the tractor they use. Neither the guy who brought it out, nor the three who looked at it, including me, noticed the bolt used to prevent the Revolution from pivoting.
To me, the entire Revolution assembly has to be replaced. The whole pin box is bent to some extent.
My hitch may have to be replaced, will spend time later today to see if the jaws are sprung from the twisting forces. May not be able to tell, as I do not want to alter the situation much until the dealer has time to respond.
I'll call when they open, and demand they come and get it - I don't want the liability of pulling it with a mucked up pin box, even if I could get it apart and configured to hitch like a conventional pin.
What else needs serious inspection? Trailer frame? Truck bed?
Obviously the twisting forces it had to overcome in the turns were very high to bend things like it did.
Should I alert my insurance company, even though the fault was all the dealers? If the truck needs inspection, who does it - my choice of collision shop, or theirs? So many questions.....any advice is appreciated!
You can see that the right hitch jaw is still closed, here.
All that twisted metal should be laying flat on the underside of the pin box, and the box itself should be flat!
The offending bolt, and damage to the pivot point of the Revolution.
I have to echo the credit union. Granted, we are in somewhat better shape with home equity. Rather than do a separate home equity loan, we refinanced the house and pulled equity out. We originally had 6 yrs left, at 5%. Now we have to pay for 8 yrs at 2 1/8th percent - and we own a fifth! Even with closing costs, we're far ahead on what the home loan plus RV loan would have been. On a straight RV loan, for new, both the CU and the dealer quoted the same interest rate - 5 3/4%. But it was the CU that was willing to write a low 8 yr fixed mortgage that tipped the balance.
I'm new to all of this too - took my first trip this spring. Jayco with a Sidewinder - so I have little to compare to. I too have issues hitching up. To get the hitch to lock, you have to back in to the pin almost perfectly straight on. And that means straight on to the Sidewinder, not the trailer! Even two or three degrees off is asking for trouble. And if the sidewinder is angled right or left a bit, watch out for punching the trailer with your tailgate corner! My repair looks pretty good.....
Releasing also is a challenge, but one made easier by following directions. Read the manual about where to grease the pin. Mine came ungreased, and it was horrible - but after getting it lubed correctly, things got easier.
That said, I do like how it tows and backs very much. I'm sure it has already saved me from a crunched truck at least twice. And the weight/cost savings as opposed to a slider is a big plus.
So, as I get time, I'll play a bit with the adjustments and see if moving the wedge back a hair will alleviate the problems above.
Sorry, late to the party on this thread. Lots of prior discussion in other threads on this, so do a search on f150. My experience:
MAKE SURE to get both the Max Towing and the HD Payload options. Especially the second. Without the HD payload, forget getting a 5th Wheel. The truck may pull the weight, but you will be greatly exceeding the pin weight that the truck can carry. Many dealers are not clear about this option. Make sure! Our dealer ended up with a spare truck to sell because we ordered it, but he assumed it was included as part of the max tow package. It is NOT.
You're fifth options are kind of limited, but they are out there. As a rule of thumb, when shopping, do not look at anything with a dry advertised weight of over 7,000lbs. Well under that is far, far better. If you do fall in love with that 5th that is marketed at over that - work very, very hard to find out real world numbers as to what it will really weigh when delivered and then subsequently loaded. Even with the HD option on the truck, it is surprising how fast pin weight can add up.
As for my experience - search for my contributions as to my recent trip. The two that I was considering were from Jayco, and Cougar. From my sig., you can see I ended up the the Jayco. Everything is perfect on that setup, and I will be very happy with the combination for several years to come....