We're looking at a late Sept/early Oct. trip to Southern Utah for the first time. Can spend 2-2 1/2 weeks in the area. Towing a 5th, would prefer CG's with full services (or at least power), but can get by for 2 days at a time boondocking before needing to dump/fill/recharge. Will have 2 medium size dogs with, don't mind leaving them for several hours (temps permitting, of course) but would prefer having them with. Looking for suggestions as to places to base camp for some days at a time. Of course Bryce and Zion are on the list, Moab looks interesting. NP experience might be limited, due to the dogs. Thinking of Kodachrome as one possibility to stay at. Easy biking in some spots would be nice. Hiking with the dogs, of course. Off hitch drive around sightseeing.
What's your suggestion for newbie's to get a decent overview of the highlights of the region?
We're contemplating a trip from the DC to southern CA and then up the Pacific Coast to OR. We generally travel without reservations and I'm not too concerned about heading west. But I am worried that it might be difficult finding sites along the PCH in June. Any advice? Thanks.
Your "no" reservations plan will result in the following possibilities:
1. severely limit/alter your RV park choices
2. add a level of anxiety or frustration during your travel as you wonder about your next day's reservations.
3. June will be the HIGH season for other tourists and local people who will impact your traveling and sight seeing activities.
The Calif. and Oregon coasts are high tourist attractions any time of the year but especially during the summer months. Reservations do not limit your RV travels or choices. Reservations are only plans to deviate from--You can cancell or change reservations!!!!
X2 to this!
Did the trip a couple of years ago. We were able to find spots, but it was a matter of researching/reserving a couple of days ahead, and be willing to either find State Parks that were inland and/or finding a private CG. Many is the place (public and private) we would check that was completely full. It was tight, and there were some high anxiety days where I was convinced we would just have to keep driving.....it also meant many times that if we found a spot, we might have to leave no matter what, as it was reserved for the coming weekend, etc. Not fun burning a couple of hours every day or three trying to find the next place we could stay.
BTW - we learned after the fact - travel North to South, if you can. There are sights you won't see being on the other side of the road, and many ocean side pull outs that you can't get to from the north bound lane.
What is CCC? And please tell me more about the CG power pole. Is there one at every site? Is it just a 110 power plug?
At every campsite that offers electricity is a post (power pole) with outlets. Depending on what you pay for, it may have both 50 amp and 30 amp receptacles. Cheaper sites will only have plug in's for 30 amp. Usually, but not always, there will be an additional "regular" house plug receptacle too.
You can (and should) buy adapters to allow you to "downsize" your plug to fit into smaller receptacles. Of course, doing so means you will be more restricted in what you can run. Campground "power poles" typically have breakers next to the receptacle, so if you have downsized and use too much electricity, you may have to go out to the post and turn the breaker back on.
Beware adaptors that allow you to plug your 50 amp plug into both the 30 amp receptacle and the "house" receptacle at the same time. One would think that 30 amp + 20 amp would give you 50 amp, but it's not the same, and at best you'd still be limited as to what you could use. At worst, you may hurt your trailer/electric items.
Me and my wife are new to camping.We just bought a 15 ft travel trailer,I would think we need electric,and water hookup at the very least.
My question is being such a small trailer do we want to be with the pop ups and tents,or the big Class A and 5th wheels and how looking at map would we know which usually go where,also which are more wilder louder
With water and electric comes RV's the same or bigger than you. Add in sewer, and then the even bigger boys are in the neighborhood. Then add pull through sites which attract bigger still, capping with the 50amp pull throughs tending toward the largest.
Wilder/Louder is the luck of the draw, and doesn't seem to correlate with the size of the camping equipment at all.
Interesting take on the N2 debate:
But, for regular use, if not a race car or an aircraft....doesn't seem to be an advantage.....
Just got the replacement for my Dezl 760 - the RV 660. Yes, while screen size is smaller, it still seems big enough, so it is not the big downgrade I feared. Have not played with it enough to give it a full test yet, but did note that the latest update did claim to include propane restrictions - which were very lacking in the older 760!
I used to be in charge of credit card processing for a very large institution. EVERY place puts a hold on your card (and on any kind of card). That happens as soon as the card is swiped. If the amount due is known, then that is the hold. If not, then it is based on either the retailer policy or their credit card processor policy. The hold reserves the money until the merchant "settles", usually overnight - they send all their transactions in a batch to the bank (done usually automatically by the system). That batch gets processed, and any holds are replaced with actual charges. BUT - if there is an issue, and the retailer doesn't settle (or has device issues), then no real charges take place. Eventually, as determined by the processor, any holds that did not have charges are then released, and you have your money back. May not mean you get away free, as they can come back later and hit your account again, after the hold expired. But sometimes.....
So, if you notice "holds" larger than your purchase, especially the next day (or longer), the usual issue is that the merchant didn't send their charges through in a timely manner, and things are waiting to be cleared up. Or, like a hotel, they put the hold on, and don't actually charge until the full amount is known many days later.
Beware the truck pumps - those guys can see holds of up to $500 at some stations!
Not towing, I get the sticker mpg figures for my truck..
Towing, it's 10 mpgs.
I'm supposed to get 13 city, 21 hwy 15 combined.
That's pretty much what I get.. Yes, I'm going by the computer and it's not that far off from the fill ups. A couple of tenths either way for usually a 20+ gallon fill up (36 gallon tank).
I know most of you only want "hand calculated" figures, so blast away, I don't care.. :) I round 'down' anyway.. ;)
Pretty close to mine, too. Towing about 10.5, City mixed 15 to 17 (winter vs summer), about 19-20 unloaded open highway. This with the 3.73 gearing and the rest of the Max Tow/Max payload upgrades.
Mine's a 2012. Closing in on 60K. 9K of that towing a fifth, over mountains and to all 3 coasts.
All the issues to date:
1. Cat. Converter needed replacing at 6K miles (warranty).
2. Cracked electrical connector on the engine sent it into limp mode (no turbos). Took all day at a non-home dealer on a trip to diagnose. A $700 10 min. repair once they figured it out.
BTW - with the turbos not running, off hitch, I was getting over 30 mpg. Of course, it accelerated like my old Plymouth Reliant.
On hitch, with no turbos, it took about 2 miles to get up to 30 mph. I still feel the pain of those behind me on the 2 lane road I was on....
Just for reference, my Jayco factory installed Class 3 receiver is rated to 3,000 lbs towing or 300 lbs tongue weight. So if going for aftermarket, it would be advisable to find a reputable hitch shop that can advise. Plus a call to Jayco about proper attachment and how big you can go without risking frame issues. I'd guess you need to go to Class 4, at least.
Ditto in spades for the actual carrier. For bicycles there are almost no models where the mfg. doesn't specifically state that they are not to be used for "trailers" (only 2 brands I am aware of, and the specific models are very limited). The added length rear of the axles means a huge increase in the pounding the carrier and hitch assembly will be subject to. And, you have to extend even further back than "normal" to clear the bumper. 400# of dirt bike is many, many times more load than 100# of bicycles because of that. So you'll want far more strength for everything than you might otherwise assume.
You might be better off getting a mini-trailer for it, and making sure you can double tow.....
Too many variables to make a meaningful comparison. But, two big things are:
Your overall speed - going 70-75 results in a huge drop in mpg as compared to going 55-60.
Wind: I normally see 10-11. Thought my truck was dieing when I spent a day going across S. Dakota, and got 6! Wind was 25, gusting to 30. Next day, with calm weather, back to normal. Yep, the effective speed was 55+30 or 85mph wind hitting the rig. Lots and lots of drag!
I have a roll up, and the only issue is that when it is rolled up, is that it blocks the rear view just enough that I can't see whether the pin is lining up with the hitch when I back to hook up. I usually just angle it off the rails, so it drops into the bed, leaving me with a clear view. Of course, then I forget, and drive around with it flopped into the bed. No harm done, but it looks unprofessional.
Many states do not allow prolonged parking in a rest stop. I've seen as little a 2hrs permitted. I was kind of surprised to see in my travels places that did allow for much longer periods!
Even when vacation time used to be limited, a solid nights sleep is critical to my safe driving. So motels/campgrounds it always has been. And now, it is even more pleasant, since we can take the time to setup, cook dinner, hang outside the trailer in the evening, chat with other campers,etc. before hitting the road the next morning.
Anyone who claims its "not needed" simply hasnt experienced what its like to have a rock steady trailer. If you had the JTs or Steadyfast on your trailer then took it off you WILL notice how much these things move around without much effort.
Actually, I did put them on my 5th. And they do make a difference. BUT, in my case, while much better, I would never call it "rock steady". Too many variables to make such a blanket statement. Hence the advice to evaluate first. Every 5th is different. If the wiggle bothers the OP, then by all means get them. But if it doesn't, there are so many other RV add-ons that the money could instead be put toward.....
Neither is needed. Spend a few nights in your trailer first. See whether others moving around inside bothers you or not. (Usually it will be the one asleep in the bedroom that feels others moving in the rear).
Generally, the Strongarm style stabilizers take more of the wiggle out than do the pin box types. You'll never get all of it, as the tires and trailer suspension still allow some motion, but it will improve things a lot. But see if it bothers you first, many never need anything.
First, do the same check on the water you have going into the tank - from the hose, etc. That way you can determine whether a "whole house" filter is needed if it is coming in from outside. Bleach will kill any microorganisms growing in the water - bacteria, algae, etc. But it won't clean it out. That dead stuff, if not flushed out, can settle to the bottom of the tank, and then later be picked up and show up later. So after bleaching, fill and empty your tank several times - normally you won't have to flush that much, but if you have a build up....The good news is that stuff usually flushes out pretty easily.
Or, it may be lime scale - minerals that have precipitated out of the water into the tank. Most of it will stick together, just like it does on shower walls at home, or on coffee makers, if you have naturally hard water. But some of it can be knocked loose and show up as floating bits. It is a lot "stickier", and is harder to clean out.
While not the most powerful cleaner, the safest for that would be white vinegar. A couple of gallons in the fresh tank, circulate through your system, and let it sit at least several hours, or even days. Then again, drain and flush. Don't, however, bleach and use vinegar at the same time.
The good news - while gross, none of the above (if you've bleached previously) is harmful, and is actually a bit nutritious! But if you've tried both of the above, and are still seeing things, you may want to think about a PuR water filter on the kitchen faucet for drinking/cooking use, keep on flushing the tank by normal use (ie - fill the tank, and skip the city water connection) as it could take a while to get it out.
I think it is a state law that everyone has to stop at Wall Drug. At least they had people stopping cars on the outskirts of town the last two times I passed through. They said it was a survey...but there were a number of Highway Patrol cars around....
I'm another one doing the same thing. The truck HAS to be equipped with the Max Payload package, which is different than Max Towing.
My 2012 is right at the payload number, with a very equivelent fifth. We've got over 8K on the fifth now, to all three coasts, and over some very serious mountains. Performance is fantastic. But it is always about how much the truck can carry, not about what it can pull. The newer body trucks will give a couple hundred pounds more capacity. So as long as the OP shops very carefully for the truck, and everything that it will be carrying, he can rest assured that he will be safe. But no other 1/2 ton other the F-150 with Max Payload can do it.
Add to it the huge pluses as a daily driver, and no-brainer boat towing, and the OP would have a winner - as long as he finds one with the payload package.
RV travel is usually slower than by car - you'll find yourself going about 60-65 on the Interstates, at most. I'd suggest:
Leave Mpls a 9am, get to Badlands NP between 5-6 pm. (Park campground, or a pretty nice KOA very nearby)
Badlands to Custer - (after a morning in the Badlands, lunch at Wall Drug) - another 3-4+ hrs, depending on traffic.
Leave Custer 8am, arrive Jackson area 6-7pm.
Split your Yellowstone portion into two areas - south side (Jackson or Park CG if possible) then up to Grizzly in W. Yellowstone.
+2 on pulling a car, you do not want to be dealing with where to put a Class A while sightseeing in the park.
As noted, the northern route back through N. Dakota can be a change of pace, If you can budget 3 full days, stopping at the Little Bighorn is well worth the extra drive. Or Roosevelt Park in ND is a variation on the SD badlands, and worth an hour or two drive through. Note that in WY, SD and ND in non-tourist areas, campgrounds are a bit sparse.
While it is not to be missed, skip exiting the Park through the North via the Bearskin Highway - not a road to take a class A with a toad on! And if you leave via the East, take Rt 16 through the Bighorns. Both it and 14 are pretty slow and scenic, but 16 is a bit easier and faster with an RV. 14 could cause a fair amount of white knuckles! (And banish all thoughts of RT 14A!!!)