The OP may want to understand what they are referring to first, before going off on a rant about loss of service. Amazon Echo is a device for streaming music, so I doubt that is what they were referring to.
More likely they were talking about a service from Brightstar (an ISP) called "Echo". That allows customers to share a businesses internet account. Just like any of the other campground/coffee shop/etc. wifi providors we have seen everywhere.
There is no reference by Brightstar to a model that requires the customer to pay. Only the business pays as part of the package they buy for interent service. And "subscribing" by the customer is just basic signup so they can regulate who has access and who doesn't.
The above doesn't mean there isn't a way to charge customers, but it seems unlikely. I would get more specifics from the campground before jumping to conclusions.
Why get the operating system (Windows) involved in something that is a web function that web browsers excel in doing, i.e. managing bookmarks or favorites, and do it more efficiently. It suggests a lack of understanding of the functions of their web browser.
Um, the above suggests a lack of understanding about how systems work. The operating system is involved in EVERYTHING your computer does, including web functions. For his needs, the OP was asking how to automate several inputs (clicks) into a process that took only one to initiate, which is the essence of what computers, and their OS's, were built to do...
By definition, the browser can never be more efficient than the operating system (or vice versa).
Back in the 70's, when I flushed the toilet on an Am Track train I could see the ground under the moving train. Since that time, I have stayed away from walking on the RR tracks.
Yep, same thing. The ride on the Empire Builder was an eye opener. Kept me off of railroad tracks for the rest of my life!
In May, we stayed at several "non-destination" KOA's. They were $49 per night, $44 with the KOA "Kampin' Kard".
One friendly owner clued me in that all franchise owners had been hit with much higher fees from the central office. One example: While you pay central to buy a card to earn points redeemable toward additional $$ off on camping, it is the franchise that has to give the discount, and is not reimbursed. On top of the 10% discount the card gets you. So, less franchise income to cover costs. Hence price increases. RV'ing in general is up, and they are seeing increases in reservations, so overall the franchise owners figured the time is right to make up for the losses racked up during the recession.
We use them because they tend to be the "Holiday Inn" of camping - may not be great, but one can count on a reasonable level of standards.
But I should note, we have stayed for a week or more at a couple of their "Destination Resorts" and paid the higher rates. Why? Great location, primarily. And comparing it to a motel at $150-$250 a night in the same area, it is still cheap!
Slight disagreement on the premise! I ran the numbers before plunging into the RV world, and in our circumstances, we are saving money!
1. We needed a new vehicle anyway, so that cost offset what we invested in a dual purpose - tow and general driving. Day to day costs were about the same as my previous vehicle.
2. We tend to stay in middle range motels when on the road, so that is well reduced by campground fees.
3. Three meals a day at restaurants adds up in a real hurry!
4. The dogs generally could not come with before, and at $60-$80 a kennel night, their room rate was a big savings!
5. Fly and drive seems like an option, but there is the additional for a rental car if going to a place that requires it.
6. My Prius is cheaper for cross country, but compared to flying or train, the RV beats the milage costs considerably.
So, for us, including depreciation over 10 years, and comparing the same number and kinds of trips and "trip days", we come out ahead with the RV - even with storage and maintenance.
Of course, those that already travel cheap (or buy bigger/more expensive) will not see the savings, although as noted, the quality of accommodations will go up!
We made it from Minn, and are now in Gulf State Park in AL. Just got done with a nice ride to view wild gators! Bolt solution has been rock solid so far. So the quick solution seems to be working. That said, I will be ordering a Hitch-Vise timed to arrive just after we get home. If for no other reason, it's portable between hitches, so I can use the rack on the truck when not camping!
Deed is done, theory worked out! Very solid with one bolt.
Turning the bars? Well, not what I purchased a rack for, needing to readjust a pretty well tuned bike every time I take it off the rack (will use this for non-RV biking also). These are better bikes, and while not hard, is not as easy as a simple allen wrench, either.
More importantly it was all about the bounce. Slamming up and down for 1,000's of miles just has to lead to stress failure of something. Now that it is all clamped, the ride in the back should be much smoother. And clearance from bars to window is excellent, and should stay that way!
Probably better off drilling from the top as all of the weight will be on the bolt of you drill from the bottom.
Was thinking about that. In theory, bolt will be on the trailer side of the pin, which sort of acts as a sloppy pivot point. So while the rack hangs down a bit, the end of the extension inside the receiver would be up. Bolt would keep it up, preventing it from pivoting down (and the rack up). But, will see what's really going on first - may be enough slop that my theory doesn't hold up, and then coming in from the top would be better. Maybe even two - top and bottom, forward and back from the pin!
Two auto parts stores, and a web search/call to a trailer parts place 15 miles away gave nothing even close. Guess it will be drill time, after I mow....
5/8" is overkill for your application. 3/8" would work better.
Mistype, sorry - they are 3/8". Yeah, 5/8 would be a little too much for the hitch, my drill, or even my ability to turn the tap!
The only bad part in all this is how to avoid the thread cutting oil from dripping back on my face as I lay underneath it all....
Thanks all for the varied suggestions. Time, access to materials, and lack of welding ability knocked out several suggestions. Struck out at the Depot for a suitable substitute, but did pick up a 5/8 bolts, drill bit, and tap. Plan on coming up through the hitch from the bottom just before the extension ends, threading the hole, putting the receiver extension in, and then tightening the bolt to wedge it up tightly (with the standard hitch pin in use, too). Will use a nut on the outside to lock it in place. Might do two, for extra support. That's what Swagman did on the carrier end of their rack. I will check out the local auto store for leaf spring brackets before I go for it.
If someone thinks the above is an unsafe idea (significant weakening of the hitch, etc), stop me now before I drill!
I did pause before buying the materials, but the hitch was ordered from the factory, for us to use specifically for a bike rack, so I don't feel remorse about modification to it (it's rated at 3K, but my boat is 3.5K, so I couldn't triple tow anyway...). I'd like a hitch vise, or one of the other suggestions, but not enough time to order.
This not a bumper mount, but using a real hitch, so the warning in the manual does not apply. Personally, I'd never bumper mount.
Ground clearance is 18", so good there.
It doesn't move forward and back, just up and down (maybe right and left too, but didn't really check), so that warning doesn't seem to apply, either.
If you're handy you could drill and tap a hole in the square tube and install a bolt to hold the bar steady.
The Swagman has a threaded tube hole, and uses a threaded hitch pin to tighten things down. It reduces the play somewhat, but since the inner tube O.D. is less than the receiver I.D., there is still some.
U-Haul has a retrofit version with lock (http://www.uhaul.com/MovingSupplies/Hitch-towing-security/Anti-Rattle-Receiver-Pin?id=16372). It has a U-shaped insert with nut that goes inside the interior of the inner tube, then you thread and tighten the bolt down before locking. Not sure it will reduce the play much, but might be worth the experiment.
The Hitch-Vise seems to be the answer. But won't be able to get it before we leave. I'll ponder whether there is something at the Depot I can use to kludge together that would get me by for this trip.
On my Fifth, we had the factory install a hitch, specifically for a bike rack (I already knew from the forums, bumpers were suspect!). After going through all the brands, found that Swagman was about the only game for trailer rated racks.
Leaving in about 3 days, and was finally able to get my new rack (Swagman XC) and the Fifth in the same place. The Swagman is the one that comes with an adaptor for bumper mounting, if desired. No, I didn't use it.
Turns out the receiver is under and behind the bumper. In this configuration, bikes are hitting the rear window of the fifth. So off I went to get a 6" receiver extension.
That gives me good clearance. But, if I lift the whole assembly fast and hard, to simulate going over a bump, there is a pretty large amount of up/down play. I cannot get the handlebars to be less than about 2" from the window, so I'm hoping there won't be any really big bumps in my future. The play seems to be due to the looseness of the rack tube going into the extension, and then additional from the extension into the receiver.
Any suggestions on how to stiffen everything up so there isn't much play? Or am I worrying unnecessarily?
We're headed out to Gulf State Park, AL and then Abbeville, LA for a couple of weeks. Our schedules just opened up, so we have up to 5 days for the return to Minnesota. Any suggestions for places to go, things to do, great camping for the two of us and the two dogs on the return home?
Crater of Diamonds in AK was considered, but without kids, we're a little too senior to be digging in the dirt. Prefer outdoors related things, but small towns with character, local attractions, dining, as well as woods, trails, fishing and not too "road warrior" biking would all be great things.
You have to get tickets from your congressman to actually get in to the White House tours. The White House Visitor center is open to all, without advance reservation. It's the alternative your congressman will suggest when you find you can't get in to the White House itself. Just like popular camping spots, try for the White House tours a very, very long time ahead - many months. But they won't confirm anything until two weeks before your anticipated visit, when you find if you've won or have to go to the Visitor Center instead.
We didn't get in a couple of weeks ago, so skipped it - spent a lot more time in the various Smithsonian museums instead.
One item my dealers head mechanic recommended. If you are going to use the on board system for charging, because of the greater capacity (whether 2 6v or a really big 12 v) the installed wiring/fuse systems may not be able to handle the initial current sent to charge deeply discharged batteries. A fuse will blow. They recommended to replace the charge line fuse with a self resetting circuit breaker. It may be a little slower to get everything up to 100%, but you don't have to replace the wiring, etc. to accommodate the additional current.
The app may not need to download data, but ALL cell phones use the cell towers as their primary reference to figure out where they are. Some of the better ones also have GPS receivers, so can do limited locks on satellites, but the accuracy is far less that a real GPS that only uses satellites. So accuracy and updating of where you are can be pretty poor if you are in a no cell zone. Depends on your phone, but a dedicated GPS is far better in that regard.
I use a Samsung TV that has the built in Netflix device. Provider is Crapcast. It never seems to do it other than in the evening.
Gotta ask the obvious - are you running an ethernet cable to your TV, or is it using WiFi to connect to Netflix?
The only speed test that really counts is if you have a browser on your TV that can get you to a speed testing web site. Then compare it to the same test on your computer done at about the same time - just make sure that both are using the same kind of connection, either WiFi or ethernet. If the TV is a lot slower, then there is your problem. It may not be receiving the signal very well, if on WiFi - or it could just be slow.
If both your TV and computer are slow (and Netflix should buffer on both, if it does it on one in this case), then it may be your router, cable modem or Comcast itself. If on ethernet, bad wiring can also be a cause....
As far as Comcast: everyone else in your area is doing the same kind of thing - your cable connection speed is shared, as everyone is drinking from the same pipe, and if there are lots of others at home in the evening, then everyone's speed goes down, leading to buffering. Then the only solution is to talk to Comcast about some kind of premium service and/or find another provider that either doesn't share, or doesn't share with so many at once!
I have the Dezl 760 and overall like it very much. That said, it has it's limits and you should be careful with what it tells you. One time in Maine it took me on a VERY problematic route to avoid a hazard. Luckily I was not towing at the time (even though it was left in RV mode), or I never would have made it through the narrow residential streets it sent me on.
It also tried to send me 200 miles out of the way to avoid a tunnel hazard on the Oregon coast, which I ignored. Turns out the edge of the tunnel was below minimum, but the peak of the arch was 4 feet higher. I was in terror as it kept warning me about the upcoming low clearance, but I kept seeing units taller than mine coming the other way....
There are a lot of places where it tells me that hazard data does not exist, so I end up having to cross my fingers there is nothing ahead that will cause problems, but they are obvious areas where there is no concern anyway.
I also have the Rand-McNally version on my iPad, and can't say in the above respects it is any better. I find operating the Dezl to be much better. Love the "lane assist" feature that tells you ahead of time which lane to get in to. Saved me in Chicago multiple times!
I stopped to visit family two years ago at a park MN for evening steaks and was charged state sales tax on top of the daily visit fee. Never been back there.
How do the MN State Parks work? Do you purchase an annual or daily pass? When you were charged was that on top of what you would typically pay to get into a state park or was this simply the fee to use the park?
For Minn. state parks, you can get either an daily or annual pass for entry. Yes, there is sales tax on the pass. Camping is an extra charge. So you need to pay for both.
Similar to Michigan. I just wonder if this person was simply charged the day pass or an "additional" fee to get into the campground as a visitor.
As far as I am aware, and cannot find anything on the State web site, Minnesota does not charge a "day fee" for visiting in a campground, as long as you have a vehicle permit. There may be individual restrictions on extra vehicles in the campgrounds proper, but there are usually a few places to park just outside, so visitors can walk in. Visitors have to be gone by 10 pm, generally.
And, if you walk or bike into the park itself, you do not need a vehicle permit!