Rand used to, and may still, offers their RV GPS as an ipad app. At the time (2 years ago) I downloaded it to give it a test workout to see if I liked it. While it was $50, it seemed like a good way to really get a feel for it, rather than try and return a unit if I didn't like it.
Been too long as to specifics, but in the end, I got the Garmin dezl 760LMT. Lane assist was the big bonus, as far as I was concerned.
The dezl doesn't do a very good job of allowing you to determine what hazards far down the road (low overpass, etc.) it is routing you to avoid, but at least it does try to avoid them! Some of its choices are questionable, but that is true of all GPS's.
This being Minnesota, a LOT of places have a parking pad along the side of the house or driveway for a boat. I have seen several where the parking is at a right angle to the drive.
For some of the places we have looked at, the space is big enough to park a 5th. The problem would be in maneuvering both the 5th and the TV around to get into the spot. Several of my current neighbors have smaller dollies for their boats to address the issue. So something like the links provided (thank you!) might just fit the bill.
While expensive, it would be cheaper than buying more acreage with suitable access.
So in future shopping that opens up options....now I just have to find a place that accommodates both the 5th AND the boat!
Anyone make a power, castering dolly similar to those sold for trailers that can be used on fifths? The better half is house hunting, and while we've seen some interesting properties, only a few have potential for parking the fifth next to the house - but then the angles, etc. to get it in place preclude using the truck without major lawn damage every time it goes in/out. Would not consider a place with any kind of a slope, but it would open options if there was a way to turn it 90 degrees or so, and then back it up 1- 1&1/2 lengths.
Cubes of ice dumped in the toilet will break up the "black pyramid" as you drive around.
There is a U--tube video of a guy that built a clear tank in his truck to see, and no it doesn't work.
Unless (1) it's a different video or (2) the guy reshot the video, he didn't add cubed ice.
The video I saw has this guy using artificial poop and driving around with it in a clear tank with a variety of different additives, but cubed ice wasn't one of them.
Different video - here's the one referred to:
The OP may want to understand what they are referring to first, before going off on a rant about loss of service. Amazon Echo is a device for streaming music, so I doubt that is what they were referring to.
More likely they were talking about a service from Brightstar (an ISP) called "Echo". That allows customers to share a businesses internet account. Just like any of the other campground/coffee shop/etc. wifi providors we have seen everywhere.
There is no reference by Brightstar to a model that requires the customer to pay. Only the business pays as part of the package they buy for interent service. And "subscribing" by the customer is just basic signup so they can regulate who has access and who doesn't.
The above doesn't mean there isn't a way to charge customers, but it seems unlikely. I would get more specifics from the campground before jumping to conclusions.
Why get the operating system (Windows) involved in something that is a web function that web browsers excel in doing, i.e. managing bookmarks or favorites, and do it more efficiently. It suggests a lack of understanding of the functions of their web browser.
Um, the above suggests a lack of understanding about how systems work. The operating system is involved in EVERYTHING your computer does, including web functions. For his needs, the OP was asking how to automate several inputs (clicks) into a process that took only one to initiate, which is the essence of what computers, and their OS's, were built to do...
By definition, the browser can never be more efficient than the operating system (or vice versa).
Back in the 70's, when I flushed the toilet on an Am Track train I could see the ground under the moving train. Since that time, I have stayed away from walking on the RR tracks.
Yep, same thing. The ride on the Empire Builder was an eye opener. Kept me off of railroad tracks for the rest of my life!
In May, we stayed at several "non-destination" KOA's. They were $49 per night, $44 with the KOA "Kampin' Kard".
One friendly owner clued me in that all franchise owners had been hit with much higher fees from the central office. One example: While you pay central to buy a card to earn points redeemable toward additional $$ off on camping, it is the franchise that has to give the discount, and is not reimbursed. On top of the 10% discount the card gets you. So, less franchise income to cover costs. Hence price increases. RV'ing in general is up, and they are seeing increases in reservations, so overall the franchise owners figured the time is right to make up for the losses racked up during the recession.
We use them because they tend to be the "Holiday Inn" of camping - may not be great, but one can count on a reasonable level of standards.
But I should note, we have stayed for a week or more at a couple of their "Destination Resorts" and paid the higher rates. Why? Great location, primarily. And comparing it to a motel at $150-$250 a night in the same area, it is still cheap!
Slight disagreement on the premise! I ran the numbers before plunging into the RV world, and in our circumstances, we are saving money!
1. We needed a new vehicle anyway, so that cost offset what we invested in a dual purpose - tow and general driving. Day to day costs were about the same as my previous vehicle.
2. We tend to stay in middle range motels when on the road, so that is well reduced by campground fees.
3. Three meals a day at restaurants adds up in a real hurry!
4. The dogs generally could not come with before, and at $60-$80 a kennel night, their room rate was a big savings!
5. Fly and drive seems like an option, but there is the additional for a rental car if going to a place that requires it.
6. My Prius is cheaper for cross country, but compared to flying or train, the RV beats the milage costs considerably.
So, for us, including depreciation over 10 years, and comparing the same number and kinds of trips and "trip days", we come out ahead with the RV - even with storage and maintenance.
Of course, those that already travel cheap (or buy bigger/more expensive) will not see the savings, although as noted, the quality of accommodations will go up!
We made it from Minn, and are now in Gulf State Park in AL. Just got done with a nice ride to view wild gators! Bolt solution has been rock solid so far. So the quick solution seems to be working. That said, I will be ordering a Hitch-Vise timed to arrive just after we get home. If for no other reason, it's portable between hitches, so I can use the rack on the truck when not camping!
Deed is done, theory worked out! Very solid with one bolt.
Turning the bars? Well, not what I purchased a rack for, needing to readjust a pretty well tuned bike every time I take it off the rack (will use this for non-RV biking also). These are better bikes, and while not hard, is not as easy as a simple allen wrench, either.
More importantly it was all about the bounce. Slamming up and down for 1,000's of miles just has to lead to stress failure of something. Now that it is all clamped, the ride in the back should be much smoother. And clearance from bars to window is excellent, and should stay that way!
Probably better off drilling from the top as all of the weight will be on the bolt of you drill from the bottom.
Was thinking about that. In theory, bolt will be on the trailer side of the pin, which sort of acts as a sloppy pivot point. So while the rack hangs down a bit, the end of the extension inside the receiver would be up. Bolt would keep it up, preventing it from pivoting down (and the rack up). But, will see what's really going on first - may be enough slop that my theory doesn't hold up, and then coming in from the top would be better. Maybe even two - top and bottom, forward and back from the pin!
Two auto parts stores, and a web search/call to a trailer parts place 15 miles away gave nothing even close. Guess it will be drill time, after I mow....
5/8" is overkill for your application. 3/8" would work better.
Mistype, sorry - they are 3/8". Yeah, 5/8 would be a little too much for the hitch, my drill, or even my ability to turn the tap!
The only bad part in all this is how to avoid the thread cutting oil from dripping back on my face as I lay underneath it all....
Thanks all for the varied suggestions. Time, access to materials, and lack of welding ability knocked out several suggestions. Struck out at the Depot for a suitable substitute, but did pick up a 5/8 bolts, drill bit, and tap. Plan on coming up through the hitch from the bottom just before the extension ends, threading the hole, putting the receiver extension in, and then tightening the bolt to wedge it up tightly (with the standard hitch pin in use, too). Will use a nut on the outside to lock it in place. Might do two, for extra support. That's what Swagman did on the carrier end of their rack. I will check out the local auto store for leaf spring brackets before I go for it.
If someone thinks the above is an unsafe idea (significant weakening of the hitch, etc), stop me now before I drill!
I did pause before buying the materials, but the hitch was ordered from the factory, for us to use specifically for a bike rack, so I don't feel remorse about modification to it (it's rated at 3K, but my boat is 3.5K, so I couldn't triple tow anyway...). I'd like a hitch vise, or one of the other suggestions, but not enough time to order.
This not a bumper mount, but using a real hitch, so the warning in the manual does not apply. Personally, I'd never bumper mount.
Ground clearance is 18", so good there.
It doesn't move forward and back, just up and down (maybe right and left too, but didn't really check), so that warning doesn't seem to apply, either.
If you're handy you could drill and tap a hole in the square tube and install a bolt to hold the bar steady.
The Swagman has a threaded tube hole, and uses a threaded hitch pin to tighten things down. It reduces the play somewhat, but since the inner tube O.D. is less than the receiver I.D., there is still some.
U-Haul has a retrofit version with lock (http://www.uhaul.com/MovingSupplies/Hitch-towing-security/Anti-Rattle-Receiver-Pin?id=16372). It has a U-shaped insert with nut that goes inside the interior of the inner tube, then you thread and tighten the bolt down before locking. Not sure it will reduce the play much, but might be worth the experiment.
The Hitch-Vise seems to be the answer. But won't be able to get it before we leave. I'll ponder whether there is something at the Depot I can use to kludge together that would get me by for this trip.
On my Fifth, we had the factory install a hitch, specifically for a bike rack (I already knew from the forums, bumpers were suspect!). After going through all the brands, found that Swagman was about the only game for trailer rated racks.
Leaving in about 3 days, and was finally able to get my new rack (Swagman XC) and the Fifth in the same place. The Swagman is the one that comes with an adaptor for bumper mounting, if desired. No, I didn't use it.
Turns out the receiver is under and behind the bumper. In this configuration, bikes are hitting the rear window of the fifth. So off I went to get a 6" receiver extension.
That gives me good clearance. But, if I lift the whole assembly fast and hard, to simulate going over a bump, there is a pretty large amount of up/down play. I cannot get the handlebars to be less than about 2" from the window, so I'm hoping there won't be any really big bumps in my future. The play seems to be due to the looseness of the rack tube going into the extension, and then additional from the extension into the receiver.
Any suggestions on how to stiffen everything up so there isn't much play? Or am I worrying unnecessarily?
We're headed out to Gulf State Park, AL and then Abbeville, LA for a couple of weeks. Our schedules just opened up, so we have up to 5 days for the return to Minnesota. Any suggestions for places to go, things to do, great camping for the two of us and the two dogs on the return home?
Crater of Diamonds in AK was considered, but without kids, we're a little too senior to be digging in the dirt. Prefer outdoors related things, but small towns with character, local attractions, dining, as well as woods, trails, fishing and not too "road warrior" biking would all be great things.