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 > Your search for posts made by 'FloridaRosebud' found 123 matches.

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RE: Frods V10 engine

Good solid engine. Probably good for at least 150,000 miles. We have 91,000 on ours, and after 4500 miles on this oil change the oil level is just a tick below full - IOW - does not use oil. Can be a bit noisy on long climbs, but that's only temporary (until you get up the hill). As @georgeleslie says, maintenance is not difficult or costly. Al
FloridaRosebud 06/16/19 07:44am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Refrigerator Change in a Class A Gasser

WRT111SFDM Whirlpool purchase from Homedepot. 10 cu ft Stainless. You just have to find one close to what you have room for. As stated I cut about an inch on top, and couple inches on bottom. My heater is under my refrigerator, so just use 2x4 and made another frame above the heater and put the floor back in. Just a 2x4 frame like a table. I have two T105 batteries and put in a power inverters and since my batteries are only a short distance put in a relay and the inverter and ran the wire to the back of the refrigerator plug in. That is one of the ones I bookmarked at Homer. Thanks!! Al
FloridaRosebud 06/09/19 02:47pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Refrigerator Change in a Class A Gasser

We put in a residential refrigerator over tens years ago and have not look back. We have a Ford and it has lasted so far with what ever roads we are on. Yes I cut the top by one inch and the bottom a little more, but had the room to do so. As already stated they are installed on everything now and I think they are much safer. Food is stored at the right temp and the freezer is like home since we are in it for months it is home. Would never go back to the older system. good luck on your choice. What brand did you use, and was is a single wide door or double wide door? I'm limited to a single wide door. Al
FloridaRosebud 06/09/19 12:00pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Refrigerator Change in a Class A Gasser

Really? How much "bouncing" do you do in your RV? The residential refrigerators are being installed in motorhomes, travel trailers, and 5th wheels. They work quite well if you always camp where you have electric hook ups or have enough solar or generator with a battery bank. While I realize they are being installed in a lot of TT, 5ers and MH, I have read about and talked to folks who have had issues. Hence my question. To answer yours, my MH can be quite jarring while driving on rough roads. Is great on smooth surfaces, but in South Carlonia for example I-95 is a nightmare. Air bag, tire inflation, and shocks are optimal, so it's the nature of the beast. I have a Dometic 2862, so at most a 9.5 or so cubic foot unit will fit, and I'm not going to cut up the opening to get something else there, so I am limited on what domestic fridge I can even fit in there, and most are lower end units. Al
FloridaRosebud 06/09/19 10:22am Class A Motorhomes
Refrigerator Change in a Class A Gasser

OK, we are discussing changing out our Dometic 2862 for an all electric. One option is the guy who does the conversion in Indiana (JC Refeigeration I believe) and I spoke with him. $750 for him to do it. I just need to get the MH to him. Wife does not like that idea, and wants a new unit. So we've been looking at residential units, and there are a few out there - BUT - folks in the last 2 campgrounds have warned us that the residential units are not made to bounce around in an RV, and we need to look at the Norcold, Dometic Nova Kool, or other all electric units. Question - who has made the change in their gassers (DP's ride much smoother, so I don't know if it's a fair comparison) and is happy with the performance and longevity, and what did you install. Al
FloridaRosebud 06/09/19 07:36am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Windy today

Google Cheap Handling Fix. We did front and rear on our F53 and it made a difference. Did that before we bought. The RV we purchased ended up having (6) 2 year old Michelin tires. Replacement front and rear Hellwig sway bars along with the CHF on the stock rear bar (it has 2 rear sway bars). And the Blue Ox True Center. The cross winds are the worst. Everything else is perfect! Yep, I did pretty much the same on my National SeaBreeze. Now, the handling is great, and Semi's don't push me around. However, crosswinds still stink. In my current campground I've spoken to about 6 DP owners, and they have all said the same thing - they too have handling issues with crosswinds. Not as bad as me, but issues none-the-less. So my thinking is it's the nature of the beast and it is what it is.... Al
FloridaRosebud 06/04/19 07:23pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Anyone interested in 83 Pace Arrow Tear down and Rebuild?

I also appreciate your posts and thoughts. I too read your posts daily. Sometimes the posts are worthwhile for me, sometimes not. But as a guy who has built things I think what you're doing is great, and if I get an idea or two out of what you're doing I'm ahead of the game. Thanks!! BTW - I bought the small tubes of the Chemlink and realized that once I opened the tube I needed to use it right then, as screwing the cap back on did not keep the product soft. In other words, the stuff at the opening of the tube dried up anyway, and I needed to make the opening too big to get the plug out. Any thoughts? Al
FloridaRosebud 06/04/19 10:11am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Anyone interested in 83 Pace Arrow Tear down and Rebuild?

Hey FloridaRosebud, have you tried a tube of ChemLink yet? If so, what are your thoughts on it? Inquiring minds want to know. :) Not yet, BUT, am now at the campsite for 3 weeks, so I'll be trying it out maybe today or later in the week. Will let you know. I'll be sealing around my main door first. Al Thanks for the update. Looking forward to your thoughts, one way or another. OK, I used the ChemLink for the first time yesterday. Was pretty easy to work with. My only "issue" is it takes some pretty good squeezing to get it out of the tube, so my 62 yr old hands (with 2 trigger fingers) were pretty tired after about 30-40 minutes. Maybe let it sit in the sun for 30 minutes before I start working with it to loosen it up some?? Did most of my entry door, and it worked well, and was easy to dress. I'll see how well it set-up this morning once it warms up. EDIT - looks great this morning. Flexible but solid. Al
FloridaRosebud 05/24/19 02:59am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Alternative satellite option?

We had in motion sat on our first MH. Never again. It was spotty at best and as you figured out, requires line of sight. Friends of ours have a portable one that seems to work ok. My issue is that it's cumbersome. We cut the cord a while ago and find that with a firestick and mobile hotspot we get what we want and have less issues than we ever did with the Sat. Nothing to set up, drag around, position, no wires and cheaper than DTV or dish. The only caveat is that you will probably want an unlimited data plan. Something that a few carriers are finally coming around to offer with reasonable prices. That said, if you really like and want DTV or Dish then carryout portable units seem to work pretty good from the experience of our friends - better than the fixed units anyway. What Mobil Hotspot are you using? We're "new" and have not yet taken the satellite plunge. With Hulu (and their cloud DVR) and the Amazon Fire Stick I can not imagine needing more (we do not fulltime, but will be out probably 3-4 months per year) but I want to have a hot spot we can use at home as well as the RV, and cut the cord from my home internet service with AT&T U-Verse. Al
FloridaRosebud 05/21/19 03:34am Class A Motorhomes
RE: MPG for Various Class A Motorhomes

Just got 7.4mpg on a 625 mile trip from FL to the NC mountains. No toad....33' National RV SeaBreeze Ford gasser. Al
FloridaRosebud 05/21/19 03:27am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Anyone interested in 83 Pace Arrow Tear down and Rebuild?

Hey FloridaRosebud, have you tried a tube of ChemLink yet? If so, what are your thoughts on it? Inquiring minds want to know. :) Not yet, BUT, am now at the campsite for 3 weeks, so I'll be trying it out maybe today or later in the week. Will let you know. I'll be sealing around my main door first. Al
FloridaRosebud 05/21/19 03:25am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Gasser Handling - Specific Question

UPDATE - just drove 625 miles over 2 days to NC from Fl for a month. Added the Roadmaster front steering stabilizer (true center) and adjusted the air bags on the passenger side to 65 PSI since the last post. I believe we are "there". MH handled great, and was not pushed around by the semi trucks. The only "butt-puckering" moment was my fault, as I let the MH get up over 70mph going down a big incline, and the MH let me know. I was able to set the cruise on 65, 3 mph higher than before, and felt very comfortable driving. So my thoughts: 1. The modifications I've done have helped tremendously, and were the right thing to do. 2. The modifications don't really fix the problem, (too short a wheelbase, too light a coach for it's size) but they make it livable. 3. Cross winds of more than 15 mph are going to give me issues no matter what modifications I make. 4. It's now up to me to drive the Mh correctly, IOW keep the speed to 62-65mph and no more. So thanks again to everyone who made suggestions and helped out. Now it's time for an adult beverage..... Al
FloridaRosebud 05/19/19 04:14pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Well it was a lot of work...

That's why I get $500 poorer every time the RV needs to be washed and waxed. Mine is $330 each time ($10 a foot), but he does an awesome job. Looks rubbed out when he's done, and 6 months later it still looks good. However, he's coming today as I got into a swam of lovebugs here in Florida last Monday, and had to use a light scotchbrite pad to get the bug's remains off some of the painted areas in the front. So he's going to rub out the painted ares and rewax. The lovebugs this year have been Epic. I've been in Florida since 1990, and this is the worst year yet. Al
FloridaRosebud 05/06/19 03:08am Class A Motorhomes
RE: MPG for Various Class A Motorhomes

I get around 8mpg...2006 National Seabreeze LX gas....Ford F53...no toad for now. Al
FloridaRosebud 05/03/19 01:51pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Anyone interested in 83 Pace Arrow Tear down and Rebuild?

Fulltimin - maybe a duh question, but would the chemlink be good to use as caulk around my doors and windows? I can see the caulk around my door (2006 SeaBreeze LX) is beginning to crack, so I need to recaulk. How easy is it to work with? I ask because I bought some caulk at Camping World last year (I know, silly me) that they said would work and it was the most difficult stuff to work with. I wasn't able to even dress it properly, so it got tossed.... Al No duh question here. I plan on using the Black Chemlink around the windows and door. First off, ChemLink is NOT a self leveling adhesive. It's not that thin. As a side note, I personally would not want self leveling, especially on the side of an rv, but that's just me. The consistency of it is similar to peanut butter, maybe just a touch thinner. No, not the crunchy version, Lol. Wherever you put it, it sticks, using a finger to form it is easy, and takes little pressure to do so. Are you planning on pulling the windows to reseal or just removing as much old caulk as possible, and then re-covering? Either way, if you buy a tube, I'd recommend putting a test strip on something, leave it cure for a day, so you can see what it will look like and see the flexibility when cured. The open tube will only cure about 1/8" to 1/4" at the end of the tube, so it's easy to pull that off, and re start the next sealing process. Since the curing takes place by moisture, and not evaporation, trying to re use an open tube isn't a problem. Let me know your thoughts if you try some! I plan on removing the existing and redoing. I'll go ahead and buy a tube and try it out. Thanks!! Al
FloridaRosebud 04/29/19 05:02pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Anyone interested in 83 Pace Arrow Tear down and Rebuild?

Fulltimin - maybe a duh question, but would the chemlink be good to use as caulk around my doors and windows? I can see the caulk around my door (2006 SeaBreeze LX) is beginning to crack, so I need to recaulk. How easy is it to work with? I ask because I bought some caulk at Camping World last year (I know, silly me) that they said would work and it was the most difficult stuff to work with. I wasn't able to even dress it properly, so it got tossed.... Al
FloridaRosebud 04/29/19 03:22am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Internet Costs

Has anyone tried OTR wireless? I want to get something I can use at home, then when my wife and I leave we just take it with us. www.otrmobile.com Al
FloridaRosebud 04/27/19 10:35am Technology Corner
RE: Michelin tires

OP - Sorry your tires were cracking at that age - no doubt about it, the wallet gets dipped into when this happens:)! Can you share whether or not you exercise your coach, and tires, on a semi regular 4-6 week interval? Or, does your coach sometimes sit for longer periods between trips. Or are you a full timer and put many miles on per month? I'm asking, because how the tire is maintained/exercised, could have a baring on how long it will last. And just a general comment. Naming a brand of tire, like Michelin, and saying anything about it - is relatively meaningless without knowing the specific model. (Sort of like some driving a Ford Pinto, saying that 'Ford's are slow!' - Well a GT40 owner might have a differing perspective on 'Ford's'...) Specific's matter, and can help others as they research. (Just my opinion:)!). And tires are very much like Dino vs Syn, or Chevy vs Ford, or (Whatever vs Whatever) - people have different experiences with a 'Brand' - and anyone who does not see the wisdom in using 'that brand' - well, they might as well just move on down the road... And larger manufactures of any product, have many variants and models - sometimes one will suck. But to say all of the products from that manufactures 'suck' is not always true and or fair. Ford for example, had the Pinto Fuel Tank issue. Chevy had the Nadar(SP?) Corvair issue. Audi had the false Sudden Acceleration of I believe the early 5000 issue. Michelin certainly had problem with their 'Passenger like XRV tires for RV's, believe this was the famous Zipper Tire. Heck, Ford Explorer's had the evil Firestone tires... To say everything is bad from a manufacturer from a problem with one product, well... Many good tires available. Many times at different price points. And lower cost, does not always mean lower quality. And higher cost, does not always mean high quality. I do have mostly Micelin's (And practicing what I preached above, first set I put on were XZE*'s. Due to a deep sharp edged pot hole I had to replace two tires during a Michelin tire shortage period. Ended up with 2 BF Goodrich ST230, which also seemed to be a solid, good bang for the buck tire. The current set of tires, are Michelin XZA2's.) My next set? Well, it's out about 5-6 years - and who knows what I'll go with. No problem with Hankook's, Cooper, Toyo's, Bridgestone, Continetal, Yokohama to name a few. I don't shop by price alone, I research and shop based upon several criteria, of which price is towards the bottom of the decision process. I suspect that if I'd bought a set of any tires, and felt I had maintained and exercised them well, and they started to crack earlier then I felt they should of - yep, I'd be not too anxious to try another of the same 'model' of tire. But I would not eliminate the manufacturer based upon one set of of one model that had a problem... OK, done rambling. And now excuse me, I must get over to my HiFi forums. Some members are insisting that Digital can sound as good as Analog - well, what are they thinking???!!! (LP's a spinning, tubes a glowing - oh yeah HiFi:)!)... Best to all, have fun, be safe, Smitty Well said. On your last note, I too am an analog man (with tubes and LPs). I have a D to A converter and a tube headphone amp in my MH and take a pair of Audioquest NightOwls with me when we go out. Long live analog!! Al
FloridaRosebud 04/26/19 03:10am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Brother in Law wants to not get in financial trouble

Ford recommends oil change every 7,500 miles on V-10. That is 2 for every one on diesel at 15,000. Math and reading are very interesting studies. :) That is wAy too long to go on an oil change that is running at 100% of its duty cycle! I always recommend a gas engine oil change every 3-4K miles. I always did 4K miles with mobil1 synthetic. Wow. I did oil changes at 15,000 miles with Mobil 1 in my car...changed the filter at 7500 and topped off (put almost 200,000 miles on it before I sold it, then over 175,000 on each of my next 2 SUVs with Mobil 1 - I must have been doing something right). At the Kennedy Space Center I was over a study on Synthetic oil. We found it could go well over 15,000 miles on a gas engine with no wear to the bearings and piston rings. I disagree with your comment of 7500 miles is too long. Maybe 30 years ago yes, but the additives in oil have improved dramatically so 5-7500 miles is actually common now even with standard oils. However, on a diesel engine the advantages of synthetic oil go away because of the sulfur, which is a by-product of the combustion process and breaks down the synthetic oils. Al
FloridaRosebud 04/24/19 07:06pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Dual A/C's, but only 1 duct line

Friday, I run the generator to exercise it and ran the A/C's. When I was running just the front one, I noticed the air was barely coming out the rear ducts also, then vice versa when I ran just the rear unit. I stuck a flashlight in one of vents and discovered that what I observed was true. Is it common to have dual A/C's and for them to be connected to one set of duct lines? In the hot and humid summers in the south, the front seems to get a little warmer at times, especially with kids opening the door every 10 minutes. Would it be okay if I was to place some duct tape in the ducts to separate the ducts for each unit? If I keep all the front a/c air blowing in the front of the coach, I figured that may help more. Thanks! Yep, ours is set up the same way - 2 A/C units, one duct system. Al
FloridaRosebud 04/22/19 09:14am Class A Motorhomes
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