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 > Your search for posts made by 'FloridaRosebud' found 71 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: TIRES 22,5

I run Toyo M-154 tires. Had Michelins before. I don't notice a ride difference, but the Toyos' are at least $100 less per tire. Al
FloridaRosebud 07/16/20 07:20pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Gasser Handling - Specific Question

UPDATE - first the refresher - The MH is 33', 208" wheelbase, F-53 chassis. 2006 National SeaBreeze LX. I've now done the CHF, have a steering stabilizer, a Hellwig rear anti-sway bar, rear trac bar, and poly bushings on the original Ford anti-sway bars, front and rear. Firestone airbags as well, and run the "correct" tire pressures based on the MH weight (actually weighed). Toe-in is slightly positive (in). The differences since the last post are the rear trac bar and the toe in. So we have gone 800 miles on this trip now, and the handling issues have pretty much been solved. Semis are a non-issue, wondering is pretty much gone, and no more butt-puckering experiences. Crosswinds to 10-12mph are non-issues as well. While I still pretty much set the cruise on 60-62, on flat roads I've gone to 65 and felt comfortable. Thanks to everyone for their help and input. I just thought I would close the loop on this thread. Safe travels everyone. Al
FloridaRosebud 07/09/20 06:16am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Tire Monitor System

Update - new batteries, drop out issue went away....now if I could just find my amplifier/extender.....sigh.... Al
FloridaRosebud 07/09/20 06:06am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Driving in windy conditions

Just a quick story....today we began our summer journey. Left Melbourne, FL, and when we got close to St. Augustine, a nasty storm blew in. Just happened to be near a rest area, and as the wind picked up and I slowed down to 50mph, we pulled in. Parked, and within minutes the heavens opened and the wind was rocking the MH. We watched folks on I-95 going about 20mph throwing up tons of water. About 4 or 5 MH pulled in as well. In about 20 minutes the storm passed, my wife and I had munched on some popcorn, and we continued. And IMHO, that's how you do it.... Al
FloridaRosebud 07/05/20 07:10pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: RV Tires

I recently moved from Michelin to Toyo. They stink for the first month or two (off-gassing) but they are sure-footed on dry and wet, have a more comfortable ride than Michelin and are cheaper than Michelin even if you have the FMCA discount. I did as well and am very pleased. I have the M-154 Toyos. Al
FloridaRosebud 06/13/20 03:56am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Tire Monitor System

I also have the TST system. My regular gauge is off by 2-3 psi so I cant say anything about the TST sensors. A good digital gauge is on my list. with that said the sensors are all reading the same numbers with no variance. Also, are you using a repeater? when I first got mnine I tried it out and didnt get to install the repeater. it would always drop a couple of rear tires. after I wired in the repeater it no longer drops any sensor, even on the toad! I would also replace the batteries. Ill be doing that next spring. I did not wire in the repeater. Probably need to do that....assuming I can find it. :h I do recall it coming with the unit. Al
FloridaRosebud 06/12/20 03:38am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Tire Monitor System

Before throwing out what you have if possible check the tire sensor battery volts. Low power may cause inaccurate data and communications drop outs. If your determined to replace the system I've had a TST Model 507 for the past 8 years and it's been pretty reliable. Cold pressures are normally the same as my hand held gauge but I have seen some deviation from time to time. Not more than about 2 psi which is close enough for my use. Any sensor drops have been low battery volts which is a five minute fix. Yeah, probably a good idea. Batteries are about a year old. For 6 it's less than $20 so maybe I'll do that first. Al
FloridaRosebud 06/11/20 02:02pm Class A Motorhomes
Tire Monitor System

I have a very good digital tire pressure gauge calibrated to within 2% accuracy. This morning before we left I had 78.8 psi on one front, and 79.1 psi on the other. However, my Tire monitoring system, "Tire Tracker" showed 83 on one and 89 on the other. In addition, it said the temperature of the first tire was 90 degrees, yet it had been sitting all night in 75 degrees temperatures. So my conclusion is the "Tire Tracker" is a POS system. One other fact, is it looses contact with at least one sensor each trip it seems. So who makes a good solid system? Thoughts anyone? Al
FloridaRosebud 06/11/20 12:05pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Paint Issue

I hadn't either....https://www.polycoatusa.com Al
FloridaRosebud 05/18/20 07:00pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Paint Issue

OK, spoke to the previous owner and he said it's poly-coat. So I'll need to get some of the stuff from poly-coat to remove it. Thanks!! Al
FloridaRosebud 05/18/20 09:27am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Paint Issue

It could be failing clear coat from sun damage or maybe repainted and clear coated from backing into something. Pull a tailight or tag light and look for repaint clues. My 2006 Sea Breeze appears to have clear coat over the painted areas, but I don't think it has clear coat on the gelcoat. If the previous owner or dealer used Poli-Glow, it's a major PITA to remove and restore. I kept a sailboat in a marina slip for 20 years and several owners used Poli-Glow to get fading fiberglass to shine to help sell the boat. One clue I remember is that Polo-Glow starts to flake off and turns light yellow if not restored annually. Let us know what you find out. This is kind of like a light tan. When you run your finger across the surface you can barely feel a line to the light tan, meaning it does have a thickness. I'm just trying to figure out what it is before I take the next step. It is interesting in that it's only on the back piece. No issues like that on the sides and front. Al
FloridaRosebud 05/16/20 12:49pm Class A Motorhomes
Paint Issue

OK, I hope this is the right place to post this. We have a 2006 National SeaBreeze LX. Real good condition. I've had a local guy do a full wash, wax, and detail for about $300. Last time he was working on it I mentioned some imperfections in the paint and could he rub them out? He said he tried, and showed me Meguiar's Cleaner/Wax that he was using. Good stuff (I've used it for years on my cars) but I asked about using a rubbing compound and orbital buffer. He said he'd never done that......OK then. So I bought a Ryobi 6" orbital buffer, a bunch of pads and buffing cloths, and Meguiar's Mirror Glaze #1. I have to say, it works pretty good, and got 80-85% of the imperfections out. There are a couple that will need me to step up to a more serious rubbing compound, but for my first time I wanted to be "safe". I did the slide this morning before the rains came: http://i.imgur.com/x2iveMgl.jpg However, I have an issue with the back of the MH. I'm trying to figure out what the problem is, hence my post. Notice how things appear to be "pealing". Is this a loss of clearcoat? Maybe the owner before (I've had the MH 2 years) did a poly-gel thing and it's wearing off? Before I go and get some serious rubbing compound I wanted to get peoples thought. (also before I take it to to a paint place for their opinion) http://i.imgur.com/3FRgNjul.jpg Thanks in advance!! Al
FloridaRosebud 05/16/20 09:48am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Towing capacity - surprisingly little on new coaches

Really. Plenty of race tracks in your area. Go look at what they are pulling. If the hitch is substantial enough and the motor has enough horsepower they do it. Some use a “Trailer Toad” to carry the tongue weight. Many DPs can be had with 4-500hp. A Freightliner chassis will handle it. I realize there are plenty of MH's out there that don't suffer from lack of capacity. I was merely stating that a lot of new MH's do. And I was naive enough to think that even entry level Dp's were immune to this by virtue of being a DP. Seems like I was wrong. I like to do things the proper way, which means weighing loaded for travel, doing the math and ensuring I am within capacity. IMHO it's pretty irresponsible for manufacturers to make the tolerances in capacity so tight that the 10k hitch they like to tout as a selling point, is worthless and frankly misleading. By the time you load people, water, food, clothes etc, there's nothing left. But unless buyers do their homework they are left with the understanding that it has a 10k hitch so I can tow 10k. And I am confident there isn't a dealer out there that will advise them otherwise without being prodded. Glad you are doing this the right way. Our 2006 gasser has a 5k hitch, but if you do the math and load the MH to it's carrying capacity there is only 4k left for towing. My point is this is probably not a new thing AFA manufacturers playing with the numbers. Al
FloridaRosebud 05/11/20 10:49am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Anyone interested in 83 Pace Arrow Tear down and Rebuild?

Looking good. What are you building the cabinets out of? Funny story. I had bought a couple of the magnet holders sold at Harbor Freight as they were very inexpensive with an ITC sale. I had taken them out to the MH to be installed at a later time. When I went to get them to install I couldn't find them anywhere. Puzzled, I went inside the house and started looking in the couple places my wife puts things of mine that I bring inside that she finds less than aesthetically pleasing. As I was searching she came in and asked what I was looking for. I told her, and she pointed to the kitchen where she had just installed them by the stove. She "used a level and everything". She had gone to the MH to look for me, found the magnetic holders instead, and thought they'd be great in the house too! She said I could get another pair next time I went to Harbor Freight. I took this to mean it was a sanctioned trip for more tools! Sounds like an endorsement to me!! :B Al
FloridaRosebud 05/08/20 10:30am Class A Motorhomes
RE: High end gasser or entry level DP

From the title of this thread, I would never buy an entry level anything. You must determine gas or diesel but consider you can afford a DP and a quality one if you go back enough years. We purchased a 10 yo quality DP and had it inspected, especially the chassis, and have not been disappointed. The ride is soft and comfortable, conversation easy even after almost 100,000 miles. 2007 and earlier eliminates the DPF and DEF hassles. What you are saying makes sense and I had thought of going older to get a higher quality coach. The issue is floorplans. A high end DP older than 7 years doesn't have the floorplans to support 3 adults (2 parents and a 17 yr old) and a work space (I work remote full time) to full or even part time. Seems like all the higher end units - even newer ones- cater to 2 people only. Entry level DP's seem to cater more toward families. Of the hundreds of floorplans I have scoured in coach years over the past decade, there are really only a few that will work for us. I had even thought of going with a 15-20 yr old Prevost and gutting it to make it what I want but, I don't have the time, the space, or the ambition for a project like that. While quality is important, our hierarchy is floorplan, reliability, then comfort and quality. There is also the thought that a 10 yr old coach will start to need mechanical things replaced/fixed sooner than a 5 yr old one. What is in our budget and floorplans are high end gassers or an entry level DP's. All that said, DW and I have started looking more into the mid level DP's. They seem to hit most of what we are after but they start to creep out of our initial budget. We may be changing our budget. I don't want to have regrets with this coach, wishing we should have spent a little more to get that coach we liked more than the one we bought. On edit - there is also the issue of financing. Originally we thought we would sell the home and full time. That would have allowed us to buy a lot more coach. We've changed our minds and keeping the house until my son decides where he wants to go to college. So our budget has changed and so has our need for financing. The older the coach, the more difficult if not impossible to get financing. I think most banks won't lend on an RV older than 10 years - and if they did I imagine terms would be poor. We bought a 2006 National gasser in 2018 and financed for 15 years (on purpose, and in 2 years we have paid the loan down by 40% - that was the plan), and to date have only spent about $1300 to fix things that have broken. We have bought new tires and batteries (normal wear items) and upgraded the fridge to a residential unit, but if you get a motor home that has been well taken care of with all the proper maintenance performed you shouldn't have the problem with lots of stuff breaking. So personally I would have no problems buying an 8-10 year old DP. Just my 2 cents.... Al
FloridaRosebud 05/08/20 10:27am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Anyone traveling yet

Unbelieveable what some will do/say when the medical facts are there. Kinda wonder what planet they came from. Yeah, stupidity abounds on this planet. Yep, as a friend of mine says, you can't fix stupid. Until you have a loved one on a vent for 12 days and in the hospital for over 3 weeks, and 2 friends on their backs for 3 weeks, then you'll know that this virus is for real. We are really just in the beginning stages of the pandemic. Everyone stay safe, and listen to the Science, not the talking heads on TV. Al
FloridaRosebud 05/05/20 06:58pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: High end gasser or entry level DP

Unfortunately, a gasser will never ride as smooth and quiet as a DP. We have a 2006 National SeaBreeze with the F53, V-10. Not really noisy except if I'm climbing a 7 or 8% grade, but that doesn't happen too much. For us, floorplan and size were the most important things, then price. My guess is, if you get a DP you will have no regrets. If you get a Gasser, well, maybe. It's like not wanting to spend the extra money on a bigger fridge, then after a few months you wish you would have gotten the bigger fridge. Sound like you would be happier in a DP. Just my 2 cents.... Al
FloridaRosebud 05/01/20 10:32am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Is anyone going anywhere?

Travel plan while we have the virus around; https://i.imgur.com/2ut8bvDl.jpg "border=0" https://i.imgur.com/m3zZPvb.pngClick For Full-Size Image. Ha ha....perfect!!! Al
FloridaRosebud 04/19/20 01:54pm RV Lifestyle
RE: Sold our Vegas 24.1 and now looking bigger

The downside to an LP genset is that they require LP of course and the LP tanks are smaller than typical gensets that run on the same fuel the coach uses. So you have to find spots to fill up your LP more often than what a typical Rv uses LP. With a genset that runs on your coach's fuel, it's taken care of when you fill up normally. Nothing wrong with them mechanically but personally I wouldn't have one due to the hassle of filling LP more often with less capacity. +1 on this.... Al
FloridaRosebud 03/17/20 10:23am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Anyone interested in 83 Pace Arrow Tear down and Rebuild?

I have good news! I just saved a bunch of money on my car insurance by switching to .... Oh, never mind. I didn't switch anything. Lol. The good news is, I made some extra money today, that I can use towards the motor home. The bad news, is.... By the time I got done with some unexpected computer service calls, it was too late to do anything. UGH! !@#$%^&*() Lol. Oh well, tomorrow is another day. I did however, do a little additional research on rv refer cooling. I have read about a number of people who have had cooling issues with their rv refer, and added a fan or a couple of fans, and the cooling was drastically better. The air was either pushed or drawn across the cooling fins at the top of the unit. One person's refer inside temp was approaching 60 degrees. Upon adding a couple of fans to pull air across the cooling fins, the temp dropped to about 40 inside. This was in outside air temperatures in excess of 90 degrees. This particular unit had the refer in a slide out, and there was no roof vent for the refer. The fridge was vented from the lower portion of the wall, and at the top of the wall. As I said, once the fans were added, big difference. So, it would appear that as long as there is sufficient airflow across the cooling fins, the refer will work quite well. I guess I'll just have to test it out. Yep, I bought one of those $15 small fans through Amazon and put it in the refer. Was about 4" square, so it didn't take up a lot of room. It helped lower the temp from the low 40s to about 36-37 degrees. Didn't help the freezer so that's when we opted for a residential unit and did the swap out. Al
FloridaRosebud 03/04/20 03:40am Class A Motorhomes
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