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 > Your search for posts made by 'Flyin Finn' found 4 matches.

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RE: Adhesive for insulation foam board

The sections I am working on, are flat. No rounded/curved areas. The reason for the repair is that water had slowly, over time, leaked under the roof membrane at the end of the roof at front and rear, without me being aware of it. The water got trapped and soaked part of the plywood under the membrane. I am replacing the whole affected section, rather than just the damage area. The plan, for the front section, is to use a 4x8 1.5” foamboard, with cutouts for the air ducts and speakers, etc.., and then glue an uncut 4x8 1” foamboard on top of it, and then glue the 4x8 ¼” plywood on top of that. Same with the 2x8 section in the rear. The edges of the 4x8 plywood will extend over on top of the aluminum frames, the foam boards will actually be cut to fit between the frames, and the plywood overlapping, and glued & screwed to the frames. I can glue the two foamboards and the top plywood together offsite, clamping them together, as has been suggested, and then install the sandwiched section gluing it to the ceiling panel, using compression support from below the ceiling. As I mentioned earlier, the top overlapping plywood will be attached to the top of the aluminum frames. The bottom, ceiling panel, is sandwiched between 2 aluminum frames, I think, so difficult to replace properly. I will still consider using a 2.5” foam board, but I do like the idea and want to experiment with the 1” + 1.5” option. For foamboard, the local Home Depot has Owens pink Foamular NGX 150 XPS and R-tech EPS white panels. The R-tech white styrofoam is the same type as what Forest River used on this trailer. Seems to be rather soft, compared to Owens rigid foam. I will experiment with samplings of both types of foams, with the different types of adhesives that have been suggested here, but I doubt I will use the R-tech panels. The Owens pink panels seem to be way more rigid than the original white soft styrofoam used in this trailer. This cross-section profile is not correct proportion and scale, just an illustration of how I am thinking of building the roof. Edit: Forgot to mention that the styrofoam also been damaged by ants getting in there. It also difficult to separate the plywood without damaging the styrofoam, so that's why I am also replacing the styrofoam insulation. https://i.imgur.com/ihdpAzml.jpg
Flyin Finn 11/29/22 11:39am Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Adhesive for insulation foam board

Thanks for all the replies! I'm in the middle of a busy work week and won't have much time to go through all the comments and the suggestions at the moment. Hopefully this weekend i will find time to go through all the suggestions. In short: yes it is a sandwich roof, not structurally strong even out of the factory. I will experiment with foam board samplings and various adhesives and applications before putting it all together. I won't replace the whole roof, except the membrane. Only the first 4x8 section in the front, and 2x8 section in the rear. Most of the roof is good and best to leave as it is. Again, thanks for all the responses, i will have more time with a more detailed response after Thanksgiving. The roof is flat. I believe level in the center, and slopes down toward front and rear. There are no curved sections in any directions on the roof.
Flyin Finn 11/22/22 11:13pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Adhesive for insulation foam board

How long does the whole process take? I want to try it too Didn't take too long to remove roof accessories and the membrane (destructing the membrane in the pricess). I only took out 2 sections of the plywood, little trickier. The time consuming part was removing the styrofoam, separating it from the ceiling panel without damaging the panel. I have only worked on it on my weekends, a few hours per day, for a few weeks. Count on it taking longer than you plan. My guess is this could be 3-4 days if you work long days. Need 2-3 people to install new membrane, if you are going that route. And after all that, cleaning out the old lists and reinstalling them will take time. So the whole process? I will probably spend more than 40 hours. That's my guess. I'm not in a hurry either, though.
Flyin Finn 11/21/22 08:42pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
Adhesive for insulation foam board

I am redoing a couple sections of the roof on my Fifth wheel. I removed the membrane of the whole roof. Then I removed the 1/4"plywood and the 2.5" insulation foam from the sections I am replacing, leaving the ceiling panel intact (the way the roof is constructed on this Rockwood Signature Ultralight is that the ceiling panel, insulation and plywood are sandwich-glued together). I plan on gluing a 1.5" thick insulation panel to the ceiling panel, with through cutouts for the duct channels and the speakers, and then gluing a 1" whole insulation panel on top of the 2.5" panel (matching original thickness dimensions). Then I would glue the plywood on top of the insulation panels. My issue is that I can't quite figure out what glue to use. I plan on using either the R-tech or the Owens Corning panels. The R-tech panel instructions says to use non-solvent urethane adhesive, which comes in caulking gun tubes. My understanding is that the panels have foil on one side, but not the other side, and I am wondering if each side requires different type of adhesive? Also, instructions tell to apply the adhesive in beads, some distance apart. But I would prefer to bond the surfaces at 100% coverage. Does any of you know if there is a suitable adhesive, for example in 1 gallon buckets, that I can use to roll (or spray) on for full coverage? Or any other suggestions for gluing the panels together? I haven't been to the HD store yet (Home Depot, Lowes). I guess I can ask there, if there are knowledgeable staff on site. Thanks for any help. https://i.imgur.com/bdtkEUcl.jpg
Flyin Finn 11/21/22 06:08pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
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