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Date Posted |
Forum
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RE: Correct Sealant for Windows, Marker Lights, Rain Gutter, ?
That silicone residue BS is just that....BS. RV forum nonsense.
I have a 700+ square square foot garage with a leaking metal roof that you are more than welcome to come over and show me just how easy it is to remove silicone without residue so I can apply something that lasts a lot longer than silicone without leaking.
Silicone caulking on anything that you hold near and dear to your heart in the hopes that it will never leak is a pipe dream.
There is at a min of 400 linear feet of silicone garbage you can "erase" with your name reserved on it if you want a real challenge. To win the challenge, you must complete the removal in less than 8 hrs, use no chemicals and it must be 100% silicone free.. The panels are 2ft wide so there is lots and lots of seams for you to clean..
The only thing I found that works is to completely bridge the silicone with a 6" wide self sticking rubber roofing membrane.
My only other choice would to be rip up the entire roof and start over with fresh steel at the cost of $10K at now days pricing.
Once silicone decides to become unstuck in random places, you can not ever get it to reseal, new silicone does not stick to old silicone, no other caulk, paint or even tar will stick to it.
And by the way, you believed a RV "factory rep"? Yeah, you are gullible. Every RV on this earth is built using cheap Butyl rubber caulking for things like doors, windows and trim.. All told at a cost of at the most $10 for the entire RV.
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Gdetrailer
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10/12/22 07:27pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Replacement window
I remedied the problem, I sold the rig and bought a two year old Artic Fox.
:h
Seems like an extreme way to "fix" the problem?
My previous rig was 20 years old, had lots and lots of miles on it and we spend 4 to 5 months in it every years. It gets used...If I could have found replacement windows we might still have it but time was right!
Mine was 30yrs old when I bought it with a broken window.
Local home and business glass shop told me to remove the window frame and bring to them.
Took frame to my local home and business glass shop, they matched the glass color, then cut the glass to size, then sent glass out to have it tempered, once they got the glass back they installed into the frame. I reinstalled the frame with fresh glass in the window opening.
Glass shop at that time (10 yrs or so ago) charged me a whole $50 for a 3' by 2' piece of glass including the Tempering and installation into the frame. Took about 1 week to get new glass.
I still think yours may have been able to be replaced for a more reasonable cost than what you were quoted but that was your choice.
Glad you are happy with your latest rig.
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Gdetrailer
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10/12/22 12:11pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Replacement window
I remedied the problem, I sold the rig and bought a two year old Artic Fox.
:h
Seems like an extreme way to "fix" the problem?
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Gdetrailer
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10/12/22 10:27am |
Tech Issues
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RE: anti siphon device ?
Charlie,
This is a common issue on many small boats as well. I have cured it for several owners just by disassembling and cleaning the part of the pump. Most pumps could be disassembled easily, but some are service proof.
Matt
They must have really cheapened them, we would prime the pump before leaving for a 3 week adventure every summer and the pump would hold the prime unless someone failed to return the handle back to proper position..
The one we had, was not self priming, had to hold a cup of water to the faucet and pump like mad to establish prime.. Was a real pain if you didn't have some water handy to get it to pump water again :S
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Gdetrailer
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10/12/22 08:56am |
General RVing Issues
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RE: 2019 Kodiak water in wheel well
Thanks for the update!
Fiberglass and metals have different expansion/contraction ratios. Doesn't mean they are bad or junk, but it does require some consideration to how it is constructed and what type of sealant/caulking is used.
As I mentioned before, manufacturer pretty much flubbed the build by turning the wheel well metal up on the outside of the siding.
So basically it is a manufacturing design flaw.
Manufacturer should have turned down the wheel well sheet metal, then ran the siding down to cover the turned down sheet metal. Then all that would be needed is a dab of caulking between the inside of the siding and the sheet metal.
Think of like shingles on a roof, the shingle on top of the lower shingle sheds water over the top of the lower shingle..
In your case, they installed it backwards with the top of the lower shingle on top of the bottom of the upper shingle..
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Gdetrailer
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10/12/22 08:39am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: TV and Internet
Not correct, thomasmnile. The California Public Utilities Commission regulates traditional wireline telecommunications facilities and services in California and is also the state video franchising authority in California. Your state, OP’s state may or may not.
Regulation of Cable/Satellite Providers
Reread the OP's post. Appears they are referring to their part time residence in Florida. Ultimate regulation of the provider is FCC. In Florida locally, it's the city or county government, and all they do is negotiate franchise agreements which these cable providers or their predecessors (since they have changed hands many times over the year and absorbed by Big Cable). I can tell you from experience ranting to the franchise grantors is a fundamental waste of time. Gotta keep the franchise fees and taxes (state and local) coming. State PSC here does electric utilities (private, not municipally owned), legacy wireline phone companies (who has that?) gas utilites, and pipeline transmission companies. No state oversight that I'm aware of in 5 decades living here.
Did you even bother reading the document in the link you posted?
"The Federal Communications Commission and local franchising authorities are responsible for enforcing a variety of cable television regulations. A franchising authority is the local municipal, county or other government organization that regulates certain aspects of the cable television industry at the state or local level. The name of the franchising authority may be on the front or back of your cable bill. If this information is not on your bill, contact your cable company or your local town or city hall.
The Commission expects cable operators to follow all of its rules and regulations. However, the FCC has designed enforcement mechanisms to protect consumers if these rules are not followed.
You should always contact your cable company first when you have a complaint. In many cases, the customer service representatives at your cable company will be able to assist you and solve your problem. The telephone number for your cable company should be on your cable bill. Your cable company has jurisdiction over the following issues:
Programming carried on the system. With the exception of rules that require cable systems to carry certain local broadcast stations, cable systems decide which programming services to carry. Therefore, you should contact your cable system if it has dropped a particular channel.
Carriage of FM and AM radio stations.
Charges for pay-per-view or pay-per-channel programming. The rates charged for this type of programming are not regulated."
Further it says..
"If you are not satisfied with your cable company's response, contact your local franchising authority.
Questions or complaints handled by your franchising authority include:
Rates for basic service and equipment, installation and service charges related to basic service. This refers to the lowest level of cable service and generally includes local broadcast channels and public, educational and governmental access channels.
Rates for cable programming services tiers, also known as "enhanced basic." Cable programming services tiers ("CPSTs") include those programming services except the basic service tier, and does not include any premium channels (such as HBO or Showtime) or any pay-per-view services. The CPST rate is determined by the cable operator and is not subject to government review.
Customer service problems, including billing disputes, office hours, telephone availability of personnel, installations, outages and service calls. Local franchise authorities may adopt the Commission's Customer Service rules, at any time. The local franchise authority must provide the cable operator 90-days notice prior to enforcing the federal standards and may not adopt more stringent standards without the cable operator's consent.
Franchise fees, which are determined and retained by local governments.
Signal quality, including interference and reception difficulties.
Use of public, educational, and governmental (PEG) channels. These channels may be required as part of the franchise agreement. Your local franchise authority can provide information on any terms or conditions of use."
Further on it says..
"You should contact the FCC if you have complaints or questions about the following issues:
Cable Consumer Complaints. File complaints at https://consumercomplaints.fcc.gov/hc/en-us
Equal Employment Opportunity (EEO) complaints. Contact the FCC, Media Bureau, Policy Division, EEO Branch, 45 L Street NE, Washington, D.C. 20554.
Signal leakage from cable systems, which can result in interference to other users of the spectrum, including aeronautical services. Contact 1-888-225-5322 or send your inquiry to FCC, Consumer & Governmental Affairs Bureau, 45 L Street NE, Washington, D.C. 20554.
Cable home wiring questions. If you believe that your cable company has violated the rules governing your ability to access and to use cable home wiring, please send a letter outlining the facts to the FCC, Media Bureau, Policy Division, 45 L Street NE, Washington, D.C. 20554.
Commercial limits for childrens' programming. Write to the FCC, Enforcement Bureau, Investigations & Hearings Division, 45 L Street NE, Washington, D.C. 20554.
Indecency and obscenity. Generally, the rules concerning the content of programming on cable channels are not as strict as the rules concerning programming content on non-cable channels. If you object to programming on a cable system, you may contact the FCC to determine what rules may be applicable and what action may be appropriate. Call 1-888-225-5322 or send your inquiry to FCC, 45 L Street NE, Washington, D.C. 20554."
Now, if you stayed fully awake reading that, you will notice that the absolute first place to start is YOUR LOCAL CABLE CO OFFICE.
IF no action or attempt to make it right THEN go to your LOCAL governing body (IE City, County officials) provided the Cable Co has a written contract with that LOCAL governing body (Cable cos often only have a written contract agreement with the local city for non compete reasons which prevent other cable cos from coming in to that area).
If all else fails, then contact FCC with a complaint.
It is the duty of the local cable co to make things right.
FCC has much bigger things to do than chase down random cable co outages that do not affect RF broadcast transmissions.
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Gdetrailer
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10/12/22 08:25am |
Technology Corner
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RE: Iota sale 90 amp surplus sale
Doug you are correct, i posted this because i have first hand experience, buying things from them for many years, and i have always gotten quality items, never anything, that is damaged or non functional,
https://www.allelectronics.com/item/bc-1290/13.4vdc-90a-power-supply/charger-used/1.html
Over $75 is free shipping, under $75. Flat rate $8 most places
I have bought stuff from them lots of times over the yrs. Never once got junk, was as advertised.
I posted the 90A one sometime ago when they first got it in.
They have also had 30A and 55A units in the past for better prices.
I believe from the ads on the 30 and 55A units they mentioned that they are "working pulls" from equipment that never was sold or used. In other words, they were prepped (plug cut off and 1/4" QC terminations added) and installed in some sort of equipment that for some reason the manufacturer decided to not sell and scrapped out all inventory, selling off what they can to recoup money. Because the plugs were cut off and no original boxes and packaging they cannot be sold as new.
Would make a killer 12V power supply for HAM equipment for the current capacity and price.. I should have grabbed a couple of the 30A or 55A versions as they were much cheaper than $125.. Heck a 13.8V 75A MFJ will set you back about $350.
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Gdetrailer
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10/12/22 07:32am |
Tech Issues
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RE: anti siphon device ?
I added a check valve... But so long as the faucet outlet is far enough above anything it can suck up it's just a labor issue.
Oh and it's not "Siphoning" back it's leaking back via the check vlave in the pump.
If I remember correctly (been 45yrs ago) when my Dad had a slide in TC it used the same type of manual pump.
With that type of pump, you must make sure you return the handle back to the prime/store position which if I remember correctly the handle was in the up position.
Pulled the handle down would pump water out then you had to return the handle to the up position.. Failure to return handle to up position would result in the same issue the OP has, lost prime. Then you would have to go through repriming the pump..
Can't find any instructions on these pumps to look at and verify correct position for storing so OP might wish to try storing in the opposite position they are currently using to see if it stops losing prime.
Otherwise might be a bad built in check valve and replacing faucet or adding a check valve may fix it.
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Gdetrailer
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10/11/22 09:01pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Proper Accumulator Tank Pressure
I read the manual, I even quoted the one part of the manual that I had a question on....is the RESTART pressure the same as the Turn on Pressure?
That's all.....
There is no such thing as "restart pressure" in water systems.
You have turn on (IE the "lowest" pressure) and turn off (IE the "highest" pressure).
Pump will only "turn on" when the pressure is less or equal to the turn on pressure.
Pump will "turn off" when the pressure reaches the highest pressure and will not turn back on until the pressure falls to or below the turn on pressure.. The pump will not turn on (or "restart" as you put it) until the pressure is equal to or less than the turn on pressure.
So your pressure tank precharge in order to make the system work correctly SHOULD be set no higher than the TURN ON pressure.
The precharge pressure however can be less than the turn on pressure to a certain extent and still work fine. The well driller that I had in to replace my home well pump and pressure tank yrs ago actually sets the precharge 2 PSI below the turn on pressure.. Not sure exactly why, but it works fine, the guy does that for a living so he must have some reasoning for doing it that way.
To be clear, turn on is the lowest pressure.
Pump will not turn on between the turn off and turn on after it has been tripped to off until pressure drops to or below the turn on pressure..
You do not want the precharge to be higher than the turn on, otherwise, why bother with the pressure tank?
Turn off is the highest pressure.
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Gdetrailer
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10/11/22 11:10am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Proper Accumulator Tank Pressure
ACCUMULATOR TANK: Model 182
INSTALLATION MANUAL
Thanks, but I do have those manuals, I'm interested in what the proper set pressure...
Egads man, don't be so lazy, read the manual!
From the manual that was linked above (took me a whole 2 seconds to find the info)..
"RV/MARINE APPLICATIONS WITH PRESSURE SWITCH-CONTROLLED PUMPS
The accumulator contributes to longer pump life, less noise, less amperage draw, and reduced water pulsation.
The most efficient use of the accumulator occurs with the pre-charge set at the SAME pressure as the pump’s pressure switch “turn
on” setting.
Typically, a 45 psi pump will turn on around 30 psi . Therefore, the pre-charge should also be 30 psi . The pre-charge MUST be set in a “static” condition (pump off and at least one water fixture opened).
Depending on pre-charge pressure to the accumulator, in relation to the pump turn on/off pressures, stored liquid is about
2 to 4 oz. . If accumulator tank pre-charge exceeds pump turn on pressure, the liquid volume is reduced."
Simply put, find the TURN ON pressure of YOUR pump, set accumulator pressure to the TURN ON pressure of YOUR PUMP.
Is that clear enough?
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Gdetrailer
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10/10/22 01:22pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Honda 2000 won’t run my late model home furnace
There you go!
Thanks for replying..
That should solve your problem and hopefully folks here jump off the generator is too small to run your furnace band wagon..
I think some folks are thinking a home furnace works like a RV furnace since a RV furnace starts the fan blower motor BEFORE ignition..
For folks that don't seem to understand, home furnaces do not have the same startup sequence as a RV furnace.
RV furnaces because the draft inducer fan and the main fan are connected to the same motor shaft the main fan must also run before the burner lights.
On home furnaces the fan motor is the LAST item to start, the draft inducer (completely separate 1/20 HP motor) starts first, then the control board starts ignition of the burner, once flame has been proven and only after the flame is proven then the fan is started.
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Gdetrailer
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10/09/22 08:40pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Winter Battery Storage
If they are fully charged they won’t freeze at zero. As they self discharge over time while sitting there they could. A discharged battery will freeze at 20* F. A trickle charger or something similar (solar?j will help to keep the batteries fully charged.
^^^^THIS^^^^
Folks don't take batteries out of their cars for winter when not using that car for several months in the winter, why should one drag the batteries out of their RV for winter?
Fully charged batteries will not freeze even in sub freezing temps for weeks at a time.
Simply put, no need to go to the work and hassle of removing and storing the batteries inside your home, garage or basement as long as you have fully charged the battery and have disconnected the battery from the RV electrical system for the winter provided you do not have access to power while in storage.
If you have a RV with a modern multistage converter and you have power available, you can even just plug the RV in and let the converter take care of the batteries.
What you don't want to do is leave the batteries connected to your RVs electrical system without having some means of charging. The RV electrical system has 12V devices like the stereo, water heater, fridge, furnace which all draw a small amount of power even when they are turned off.. Those small draws will flatten your battery in a matter of a week or two.. Hence the need to plug RV into power or disconnect the batteries for storage.
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Gdetrailer
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10/09/22 05:04pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Power voltage to brakes??
Believe it or not, your IBC is much better over any of the current aftermarket controllers even with some of the short comings of it.Absolutely not true, if his Ram is like my '15 was from the factory.
Someone at Ram decided that below 30 mph the trailer brakes would only need about 60% input. On the bigger brakes, 12" x 3" if memory served it was dangerous. More than one fellow reported rolling through an intersection. Ram did update the programming. My 2020 has very good trailer braking.Lot of discussion ref the shortcomings of the 2013-2016 Ram IBC a few years back. The IBC on our '16 Ram 3500 never provided more than 2.2a braking current at each wheel---even with every internal preset set for absolute heavy, maximum braking. Got a full 3a powering the trailer brakes directly via battery. The IBC worked reasonably well under normal conditions. However, for emergency braking---it was sorely lacking. Bypassed the IBC and installed a Tekonsha P3. Problem solved---3a at every wheel if/when needed.
And once again, you CAN'T have AMPS without VOLTAGE.
Part of the problem with not getting more than 2.2 AMPS is from WIRE RESISTANCE. RV manufacturers take the low road on wire size, using the smallest wire gauge they can get away with. Just because the wire gauge can handle the max current of the circuit doesn't always mean it is the best size to use. Even in 120V/240V AC circuits there is a wire size table that calculates to correct wire size for the distance. Once you pass a certain length the tables tell you to use a larger wire gauge.. It isn't done because the wire can't handle the current, it is done to reduce the voltage loss.
The smaller wire size, the higher the resistance, higher the resistance the lower voltage you get at the end of the wire.
This becomes even more of an issue with LONGER trailers where there is more wire involved which equals even more wire resistance.
More wire resistance equals lower voltage present at the brake magnets.
Lower voltage at the brake magnets equals LESS CURRENT DRAWN BY THE MAGNETS.
This is BASIC DC ELECTRICITY 101.
Some controllers may overcome SOME of the problem by being a bit more efficient electrically wise, but not ALL of the problem.
Replacing the IBC with aftermarket is simply putting a bandaid on the real problem.. But if you like fixing everything with bandaids, then go for it. I would rather tackle the problem without resorting to bandaids.
The problem is more on the TRAILER END than on the controller end and the ones that experienced not enough braking and fixed it with an aftermarket controller simply bandaided and hid the problem with the trailer wiring.
RV manufacturers are known to be cheap, they tend to use whatever leftovers they have. I had one RV that had no less than three factory splices from the trailer tongue to the first axle.. And that was on a 20ft TT.. Talk about being cheap! They basically took the cut off scraps of wire to build that trailer.. When I got that trailer the brakes barely worked. That's when I discovered the ugly truth. Every single splice had severe corrosion.
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Gdetrailer
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10/09/22 11:20am |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Honda 2000 won’t run my late model home furnace
Half a horse power (Common blower size) is 500 watts running (Approximently, I know that's not the right math but the motor is not 100% efficient so that's what it takes) starting can be 2500 or more.
OP has a 35K BTU 90+ furnace.
It won't have even a "half horse" fan motor.
Even though the furnace documentation may not be the same as the OPs (since they didn't give model, I guessed using documentation for any newer high efficiency furnace) I suspect the that small of furnce will have similar limited CFMs which does not require a large motor. The one I linked states 1/3 HP motor, by pure math 1/3 HP would be roughly 250W or 2 amps at 120V. This is very doable with a small gen even a 1000W gen should be able to run that furnace.
If OP furnace was larger like 75K BTU then yes, a much larger fan motor would be required and employed in order to get the correct CFM of airflow. 35K BTU furnace does not require a huge amount of airflow and hence a much smaller fan motor can be used.
The OP also clearly stated that their 35K BTU furnace is using ECM type of motors.
You can read up on ECM motors HERE
ECM motors by their design do not have a large startup surge, they are actually soft started.
"An ECM motor, known as Electrically Commutated Motors, is the fastest it has ever been, with unparalleled airflow delivery to meet the necessity of a heating or cooling system. It can be used in hundreds of different applications. It is a self-regulating motor that do not need the assistance of any other system to operate. But what causes an ECM motor to work? How does the motor know when to speed up and when to slow down without external sensors to track pressure, temperature, or something else?
ECM motor has a microprocessor which is a crucial factor in its ability to have higher performance. The microprocessor is used to sequentially energize and de-energize each winding of the stator, generating an electrical current. The processor-based pulse control generates a magnetic field, which allows the rotor inside this ring of magnets to spin. The microprocessor employs a closed-loop feedback system to more accurately regulate the magnetic fields, thus reducing the eddy currents and losses experienced by conventional mechanically commutated motors. This also allows for the use of a brushless motor, which reduces points of physical contact within the motor’s moving parts and makes them more durable.
"
Think of a ECM motor as more like a DC brushless motor like what is typically used in computer fans, only on a much larger scale. It is fully RPM controllable from start up to full speed and back down to zero without large startup currents.
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Gdetrailer
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10/09/22 10:52am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Honda 2000 won’t run my late model home furnace
Starting current for a blower fan would exceed a generator's ability? If that were true the gen would overload and quit. I've asked what the gen does but no response.
:R
Here is the important info that the OP posted..
Sorry, I’ve been away! It’s NG 35kbtuh ECM induced draft 96%/condensing 120vac 2016 model. I retired from HVAC but the older Models that I was trained on had different ECM motors. They were all 1 hp and the speeds were selected with dip switches. Even those motors only drew 75 W on half speed. This tiny furnace that I have has three selectable speeds by switching taps on the motor and the wattage will be super low. The furnace and stat do nothing when connected to the generator.
Notice, it IS a small furnace using ECM motors, ECM motors are variable speed and do not have a large startup surge, they are "soft" started from a microprocessor drive unit.
HERE is a spec sheet for a 35K BTU home furnace. 35K furnace uses a 1/3 HP ECM motor.. 1/3HP is well within what a 2000W gen is able to handle.
I think IF the gen was going into overload, shuts down or does a happy dance the OP would have mentioned that.
I suspect from the lack of that information that the gen is perfectly fine and the fault is not with the gen as far as overload but with the fact that the CONTROL BOARD of the furnace is detecting no connection between the neutral and ground of the gen.. When a fault is detected by the control board, typically the control board is designed to not start the ignition sequence (IE no inducer fan, no air handler fan, no ignition, no gas valve, NO RESPONSE).
Newer furnaces like what the OP has, have many safety designs built in and these safeties all must be met before the control board ever starts the furnace ignition sequence.
Modern home furnaces are designed for being connected to your home electrical system. A portable generator is not always setup just like your main home panel where all neutrals and grounds are tied together in the main panel.
OP has nothing to lose by adding that little jumper to a plug and see if that solves the problem (I believe it will).
OP could of coarse simply add a transfer switch to their furnace like this..
https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/917RpCXCR8L._AC_SL1500_.jpg height=300 width=300
Which should preserve the neutral/ground bond through the main breaker panel and doesn't require OP to have to rewire the furnace or wire the furnace on a plug (I personally am not a fan of wiring a furnace to a plug in to the mains for various reasons)..
https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/81xHF+eNQlL._AC_SL1500_.jpg height=300 width=300
Found HERE
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Gdetrailer
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10/08/22 10:28am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Honda 2000 won’t run my late model home furnace
So forgive my lack of electrical knowledge but is all that I would need to do is get a 110 plug, then run a small jumper from the ground to the neutral(white/silver) side of the plug and plug that into the generator?
My assumption is that instead of using a 110 plug I could also do it for the 30 amp outlet on the generator and therefore free up a 110 outlet. My genny has 2 - 110 outlets and 1-30 amp outlet
Thanks
That is a "it depends" type of question.
It depends on the exact type of gen you have (IE inverter/non inverter).
It depends on how that gen is wired (IE120V only, 120V/240V, switchable 120V only or 120V/240V).
It depends on what brand of gen you have. Some brands already tie the neutral and ground positions together internally so no need to add a plug..
It depends on if that gen is going to be OK with having the neutral and ground positions connected together. Some inverter gens may take issue to having neutral and ground position wired together..
If you have not run into a problem with an open neutral to ground on the gen then no need to add it.
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Gdetrailer
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10/08/22 09:18am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Proud of my Costco cheap Firman Gen
Almost all devices that run on a carburetor(gasoline)engine should have a shut-off valve near the carburetor. ALL the outboard boat engines which I've owned (including the 6 cylinder Merc) I always let run until the carburetors runs out of gasoline, before I take them out of the water. NEVER had any problem starting them up. Right now, I have a tiller, and a small air compressor, that need a replacement carburetor. Guess why....???
The carbs do not need replaced, they need the jet and emulsion tube cleaned.
Small engine carbs are very simple with in almost every case no small passages to clog so no need to dunk, soak or use exotic cleaners.
The heart of small engine carb is the center tube where the fuel bowl is screwed on to at the bottom.
Remove the fuel bowl, inside the tube is a jet, most are removable. If removable, remove with flat blade screw driver. Be careful that the little tube the the jet was holding doesn't fall out and disappear from your sight. Extract the tube if it didn't fall out.
That tube is the emmulsion tube, it mixes air with the liquid fuel from the jet. It has four rows of small holes, those holes over time clog shut. Carefully with a small needle open each hole. Give a once over with some spray carb cleaner and reassemble.
Some carbs on pushmowers will have a bit different setup since the carb sits above the fuel tank that involves a vacuum fuel pump.. The fuel pump diaphragm tends to fail. With that one it is best to buy new gasket which includes the fuel pump diaphragm.
In most cases a good cleaning will fix it, other wise you can buy after market replacement carbs for most small engines for $10-$30..
And yes, I have cleaned carbs over the yrs and not replaced any.
Latest project was a 30yr old Chinese clone gen that came along with a bunch of scrap.. Tank was full to the top with rusty water, carb was full of rusty water.. Cleaned the tank, removed the carb and simply cleaned the carb.. Engine started on the second pull after reassembling..
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Gdetrailer
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10/08/22 08:30am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Proud of my Costco cheap Firman Gen
Egads!
Your going to get flaming arrows from all of the expensive special colored generators and the non Ethanol gas fanboys for posting good news of a lower cost alternative and using Ethanol laced gas that has been stored for a yr..
You have discovered what I have known about for yrs, one doesn't have to pay thousands of dollars to get a good generator and nor do you have to seek out exotic non Ethanol gas like AV or Race fuel.
I have several Chinese Honda clone gens, one is about 20 yrs old, has never ever seen non Ethanol gas, stored for months at a time without running and yet starts typically on the second or third pull. The other is a HF 8Kw gen and it also sits for months at a time and starts quickly with a flick of the electric starter..
I don't even use a fuel stabilizer.
I rotate my fuel supply every three months and don't fill and store the gen tanks full of fuel.
The key to keeping them healthy and happy is to turn off the fuel, let it run out of fuel and if provided open the fuel bowl drain to empty it completely.. That's it.
Enjoy your savings on the gen!
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Gdetrailer
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10/07/22 03:52pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Honda 2000 won’t run my late model home furnace
Furnace control board automatically checks and detects for open neutral to equipment ground and should automatically lockout the furnace from operating. Hence the reason why you get no response from the furnace.
Some control boards actually have a diagnostic LED on board which will blink out a trouble code to help pin down the issue..
Assuming you have a Honda 2000i inverter series, as I recall those generators do not connect the neutral position to the equipment ground. This typically is not a problem with most electrical items. But it does create issues with things like RV EMS systems or in your case a control board that monitors the neutral to equipment ground and with no connection it faults on the open neutral/ground.
As I stated, the control board uses what is called diode rectification to determine if flame is present via a metal probe which is isolated from the burner and when a flame is present the flame engulfs the probe.
The flame conducts electricity in one direction (like a diode) between the rod and burner.
This sensing only works correctly when the burner is at the same voltage potential as the neutral. For that reason the control board will prevent the furnace from starting or responding to the T stat call for heat.
It is part of a safety system to prevent gas valve from staying open if no flame is present.
Retry your setup with adding the neutral/ground plug on the gen, it should work once you establish that connection.
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Gdetrailer
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10/07/22 03:32pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Voltage Drop - NOT Park Problem
Seems no one is actually reading thru the original post. :B
OK smarty..
Here is the first post the OP posted.
Phoenix Cruiser 2551 30a service
- First noticed it when A/C turns on then stumbles. Voltage at another RV outlet dropped well below 100. Capacitors good. A/C working fine until this point. A/C did trip ITS 20a breaker one time. 30a main held.
- Problem persists when disconnected from shore power and generator running. Main indicator this is an RV wiring problem not shore power delivery system.
- Thermostat threw an E1.
- Inverter monitor behind driver seat threw an E2 and E5.
- Can turn on toaster at one outlet voltage drops 3v
- Can turn on hot water heater voltage drops 3v
- Hooked up a 15a draw elect device drops 5v
- System wide problem
- Checked connections at transfer switch, socket for shore power, junction where old EMS used to be, mains in RV breaker panel. Checked neutrals, grounds and feeds. All tight.
Shore power is my RV lot shop. I can find no voltage issues there even under load. Problem is on the load side of the RV sidewall shore power connector. Even tried different cables and installed a new 30a breaker.
Am I missing any 120v main connections in the RV not listed above?
I’m stumped.
Absolutely where does the OP state that they checked VOLTAGES at every point I mentioned under load?
The OP only mentioned "checking" the connections and pronounced them good.
Checked them as in how?
Voltages?
Doubtful.
Looks?
Most likely, they mentioned the connections are "tight" which means they used a screw driver to see if any of the connections were "loose". Just because a connection is tight, doesn't mean it is electrically good.
You can have a "good looking" connection but yet have a poor electrical connection.
Op basically gave zero info that is helpful, no T stat brand and model, no inverter brand and model and all of the error codes are most likely some error stemming from low line voltage due to a bad connection in the 120V wiring.
If the problem is persistent across two or more electrical sources then you must go to the the common point where all electrical sources are tied in together.
Common points are EMS (if equipped), the place where EMS used to be (if removed), breaker panel and ATS.. Those are the first places to check in and out voltages. Checking voltage at an outlet is not the right place to start..
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Gdetrailer
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10/07/22 09:57am |
Tech Issues
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