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RE: Starlink for RV's Just Released Announcement

Got the same email. The price has jumped significantly. For those who are on the waiting list, the monthly fee was $110(Cdn) per month to $140. Cost of equipment went from $649 to $759. Now an additional $50 for hub converter. For RV plan, it's $179(Cdn) monthly + equipment $759. If you want both RV and Home you have to buy two dishes and pay for two plans per month, $179 for RV and $140 for Home. That's $319/ month for internet. The difference with the RV plan is $30 a month more attributed to mobility. There is no guarantee of service availability or speed pending Home Plan congestion in the area. You may not be able to connect or be bumped and service is not guaranteed. You can just buy the RV plan for home use..But..if you live in a congested area and are on the waiting list you will not get service. You will have to drive/ move the dish to a remote area for service defeating the loophole of just one Dish and monthly plan. Basically think of the 4G/5G data plans except reversed, remote area no signal or only 2G. Big city 5G. It's turned into a rich man's service in remote areas, not an affordable high speed Internet connection to support unserviced rural areas at a comparative cost to lower income families. Which is exactly what I figured out when "starlink" was announced and was claimed to cost a mere $80 US per month only a few short yrs ago.. But yet folks still believe that is going to be cheap and stay cheap, I have some ocean front in Arizona to sell to those folks.. It is only going to get much, much more expensive as they add more and more satellites to the sky.. It costs a lot of money to not only launch but track and control each and every satellite and not even Musk can reduce the cost to maintain each individual satellite flight pattern. There are actual Satellite "flight centers" which are manned 24/7/365 with real live people who do nothing else but to track and adjust every single satellite launched into orbit. Nothing is 100% "automatic" and every single sat is a potential space junk hazard if not tracked and maintained. More sats flying = higher cost of operation = higher cost to the end consumer.. Yesterday $80, today $120, future $200 and higher per month..
Gdetrailer 05/25/22 09:02am Technology Corner
RE: Tires? Balance or Alignment

Just to clarify - the tires are Falken CT60 A/S - great reviews - installed yesterday. All suspension is fine, inspected at my last service. It only began after the tires were installed, immediately. Prior to tire change, I drove it in a straight line, hand free. Ran true. Also drove same straight line, hand free after install. In both test drives, it drove straight and true at least a quarter mile. I'm thinking that eliminates alignment, but not positive as I'm not a mechanic. Steering wheel does not 'wiggle' in only vibrates slightly at that speed, but noticable. In fact, Genie did not even notice it when she drove it home - well drove faster than 25 mph too. But I only drove it later in the day, and noticed it because I was looking for anything unusual at varied speeds. It's very minor, but I'm afraid it might increase over time, and then be out of warranty. I will call Monday and have a chat - make appointment to have them take a look. I'm just asking you tire knowledgeable guys for a little insight before I have that chat ... You answered your own question in the text that I bolded.. Take the tires back to where you had them mounted and try a rebalance. If condition continues, ask for another set at no cost (warranty) or better yet, spend a few more dimes and buy better tires. I suspect you ended up with defective and unbalancable tires.. Big tire manufacturers will often make tires for other companies with a lesser degree of quality. Sears was a good example of that as they had Michelin make their Sears brand tires for many yrs which often had less tread and wore out faster than the more expensive Michelins but at a lower price point. As of 1999 Goodyear is under contract with Falken to make their tires.
Gdetrailer 05/21/22 04:30pm Tech Issues
RE: 8.00 x 16.5 to 16 tire help

Hello from Northern Alberta does anyone know what size 16 is same or close to the 8.00 x 16.5s on my old 79 Dodge Mini home. we have 9 tire shops in town 4 are very big brand names not one could tell me??? trouble is there all run by young people who only go by there company compputor . The 16.5 is the rim diameter. https://i.imgur.com/WU80JrUl.jpg Tires for 16.5" rims are obsolete and no longer made or available, been that way for the last 20 yrs or so. My Dad had a 1980 F350 which used 16.5" tires, when those tires became hard to get had to buy 16" rims to run new tires in 16" size. You can't use/fit 16" tires on the rims you have, you will need to buy new 16" rims. See HERE for details and possible size conversions.
Gdetrailer 05/21/22 11:49am Tech Issues
RE: Question about Furnace Short Cycling..

Home furnaces have an over temp sensor that will force a shutdown Maybe the newest home furnaces made within the last 10 yrs will shut it down completely, but generally on the home furnaces I have had they overtemp only shuts down the burner only. Once the heat exchanger cools down to normal temps it will automatically relight the burner. Basically repeating the process unit the T stat temp is satisfied.. Excessive burner cycling can waste fuel (importantly with RVs and dry camping will considerably waste a lot of battery capacity) plus takes considerably longer to get things up to temp and if you are dealing with very cold weather the furnace will never satisfy the T stat temp. My home furnace uses hot surface ignition which is basically a resitive layer of material deposited on a ceramic structure.. Excessive short cycling of the burner severely reduces the life of these ignitors.. At $30+ per ignitor you really want to make sure you are not having issues with short cycles.. Stinks to have one blow out in the middle of the night or on weekends.. I keep a new spare at all times..
Gdetrailer 05/20/22 09:36pm Tech Issues
RE: Question about Furnace Short Cycling..

Furnace is built around the idea of a 12V battery. Typically battery voltage encountered for 12V systems will be 11V-15V. 10.5V is considered a "dead battery" and if you routinely run your battery down to 11V you are killing all the life out of your battery.. 15V when your plugged into shore power and converter is charging at bulk votage. 12.8V is nominal fully charged Lead Acid battery resting voltage. If you are discharging your battery to 11V or 10.5V to get through your camping session, it is time to change your habits. More battery capacity would be number one on the list followed by adding some solar and then if nothing else a small gen and recharge your battery before it gets to 11V.. Battery prices are not cheap now days and taking much better care of your battery will save you tons of money in premature battery replacements you didn't have to do.
Gdetrailer 05/20/22 02:57pm Tech Issues
RE: Question about Furnace Short Cycling..

Lower voltage means the fan motor will turn much, much slower. Slower fan, more heat buildup in the furnace heat exchanger.. More heat in the exchanger and you can reach over temp cut off which turns off the burner until the temp goes below the trip point. Slower fan can also mean that the other "safety" can trip which is the fan "sail switch" and that can also trigger burner off. Slow fan also affects the burner flame directly, the fan motor is double sided, it has a fan on for the inside air and a fan on the outside air for the burner (inducer fan). The inducer fan helps move the heat and combustion byproducts through the heat exchanger..
Gdetrailer 05/20/22 02:30pm Tech Issues
RE: Data plate

Data stickers (with VIN and tire sizes) have been traditionally placed on the drivers side sidewall at the front lower corner of the trailer. Typically the stickers fade out or peel off over time, so fair chance there is no sticker left on yours given the age. Sometimes the sticker may have been placed on the drivers side of the tongue A frame and with some of those it may be a aluminum plate riveted in place. The serial number (which on older trailers was the VIN) or VIN is often stamped in to the top or side of the tongue A frame and sometimes will be stamped on a aluminum tag and riveted to the tongue A frame. Not sure what info you seek that will be on the sticker, typical info is VIN, tire size, air pressure for the tire size and GVWR.. Old ones like yours did not list unladen weight, tongue weight. For GVWR you can count the lugs on your tire rims, 4 bolts you have axles of 3,000 lbs or less, 5 bolts you have axles of 3,500 lbs and 6 bolts you have axles of 5,000 lbs each.. Add up the axles and you will be in the ball park for GVWR and the trailer unladen weight should be less than GVWR.. To get unladen weight take it to a scale and get it weighed.. Many of the trailers made after 2000 may have an additional label in one of the kitchen cabinets as eventually someone figured out that stickers on the outside fade away..
Gdetrailer 05/20/22 09:06am Travel Trailers
RE: Can 19 Silverado 1500 pull 23rslw jayco with just a ball

Without WDH, the front of my truck goes up almost 2 inches and the rear goes down 3. The truck isn’t level and the trailer isn’t either. But you think this is OK. I have 12% on the tongue, 600 pounds. With WDH, truck is level and trailer is slightly nose down. As it should be. Nothing I said was false or paranoid. Just common sense. Advice like yours could also cause someone to have an uncomfortable ride. Just because something can be done doesn’t always mean it should. Like I said before, I see people doing stupid stuff with trailers all the time. You need to rethink your truck if 600 lbs sets the front up 2" and the rear down by 3". Even 1/2 ton trucks from the 1960's were able to support 600 lbs in the bed without sagging that much. Heck my Dad even had a 1970 F100 which he used a full size TC in it and it didn't kill anyone or cause any accidents.. To me, what you are doing is being "stupid" yourself by failing to realize that your truck is not capable and to further the stupidity running 12% TW! You SHOULD be targeting for 15% for the most stable tow. The weakest truck I have towed with was a 97 "light duty" F250 which was basically a "heavy half" based on a F150 frame and chassis. I towed a 7,000 GVWR 20ft TT with that without WD, trailer towed straight and true and rear drop was about 2" and front raised less than 1".. That 97 truck pales in comparison to any of the real 250 Super Duties that I have had and the ones I still own where front raise is barely detectable and rear sag is less than 1" with a 26ft 7,000 GVWR trailer without WD.. Just towed a 93 35' park model trailer for my FIL almost 100 miles with my 2020 F250, he was shocked that the truck barely dropped.. Get the right tool for the job and one doesn't always need aftermarket bandaids..
Gdetrailer 05/19/22 10:30am Travel Trailers
RE: Trailer Brakes Disconnected message

This is a combination problem. Both the truck being overly sensitive and the trailer being wired poorly. As been mentioned, the early controllers were overly sensitive. Even now they are not very tolerant of the lousy wiring the RV industry use. Specifically those scotch lock connectors and tiny gauge wiring. And let's not forget the known issue of the wiring wearing thru the insulation inside the axles creating all sorts of intermittent faults. Once all the poor wiring is corrected, then you can start looking at the truck. I will take the oversensitive to wiring faults controller any day.. Much better to know upfront the trailer brakes may not be working or up to standards well before you really need them in a crisis.. The early alert gives you a chance to find and correct the problem(s) before you get on the road. Many old vintage controllers from the past often never had any wiring fault indicator.. Basically you plugged in and hoped that all was well, until it wasn't.. And when it wasn't, you were descending a steep grade or clamping the irons to avoid an accident.
Gdetrailer 05/19/22 07:23am Tech Issues
RE: Trailer Brakes Disconnected message

Logically since this problem is showing up on RAM and Ford trucks and we all have different RV's thus the problem is most likely in the truck connections and/or plug. Especially since it goes away for a time after cleaning the connectors. We did that too. Cleaned the connector and it "went away" or so we thought. There was just something differently wrong. It was just coincidental that the cleaning seemed to help. If one person reports 'cleaning' gives temporarily relief then maybe coincidence. If multiple people report that is the case, as it is here, then it is not coincidence. That is not to say that other problems might occur but the most likely is a bad connector on the truck. I will have to disagree with the thought that all of the problems are from the connector on the truck end. The socket on the truck is believe it or not, fairly protected from weather since it has a spring loaded cover that snaps closed when the plug is removed. That cover while is not sealed with a gasket stops a lot of moisture from getting to the contacts. So those sockets tend to have a very long life even in the most severe climates. I have as of yet never ever needed to clean nor replace the 7 pin socket on any of my trucks and I live and drive them in the rust belt with tons of heavily salted winter roads. 97 F250 had 150K miles and had that for 6 yrs, 2003 F250, had 250K miles and owned it 13 yrs (the bed was rusting out but the 7 pin socket was still fine), 2006 F250 140K miles owned it up to 2019 and the bed was rotting off but yet the 7 pin socket was fine, 2013 F250 135K on the clock so far and the 7 pin socket is fine, have 2019 and 2020 F250s and they are fine also.. The problem child tends to be the 7 pin PLUG on the trailer tether cord.. The plug stays out in all weather unprotected.. I tuck mine under the propane tank cover to keep it dry and out of the weather.. Barring a problem with the PLUG, the rest of the problems tends to be the wiring on the TRAILER.. No need to scare folks into attacking the vehicles socket and wiring unless all else fails, most of the problems will be found and corrected on the trailer side..
Gdetrailer 05/18/22 08:45pm Tech Issues
RE: Trailer Brakes Disconnected message

Logically since this problem is showing up on RAM and Ford trucks and we all have different RV's thus the problem is most likely in the truck connections and/or plug. Especially since it goes away for a time after cleaning the connectors. Ford and RAM controllers may be a bit more "sensitive" to wiring faults on the trailer which would explain the reason they appear to show a fault more readily. I know when Ford first brought out their own TBC there where lots of complaints about random disconnect events posted here and other forums. That has diminished over time. The fault is generally found with the trailer side of things as trailer manufacturers use the lowest quality materials they can get away with. This means they typically use the lightest, cheapest pigtail (smaller ga wires) and connector as possible (single sided prongs), the lightest wire gauge possible (mine was 16 ga) and non weather proof crimps on the connections. As a preemptive measure I replaced the light duty pigtail with a heavy duty pigtail which has double sided prongs in the molded on plug. Additionally, I ran all new 10 ga wire (x2 runs) back to the axles (replacing the factory 16 ga wire which had multiple factory splices). Bypassed (disconnected the internal wire in the axle tubes and ran the wire across the trailer frame)the internal light ga wire running though the axle tubes with external heavier ga wire and weather proof splice connectors. The result has been zero disconnect messages with a 2013, 2019 and 2020 F250..
Gdetrailer 05/18/22 06:51am Tech Issues
RE: Trailer Brakes Disconnected message

Our problem was in the actual wheel hub. Once they pulled it, they found the problem. Yes, that is correct as there are pinch points where the magnet wires can get caught and insulation damaged or the wire breaks. But generally only one out of four magnets being disconnected isn't going to generally cause the controller to point out a failure unless the wire is touching and shorting to the metal or shorting both magnet wires together inside the drum.. Controller doesn't care if there is one or six magnets as long as it gets the ring back from the pulse as expected. Typically you will have two to six magnets depending on axle count so controller has to be a bit flexible.
Gdetrailer 05/17/22 08:41pm Tech Issues
RE: Trailer Brakes Disconnected message

Thanks for all the replies. At this point I don't think its the truck but trying to figure out what it is on the trailer. May even try another similar truck and see if the same issue appears just to be sure. The connections all look good with no corrosion. First time i've experienced this issue before. The rub is the connections can "look good" but in reality are bad. Typically non weather proof crimps are used to make the connections which allows moisture in the air and water splash to find its way into the crimp and wick into the wire. That moisture over time corrodes the wire creating high resistance. I would at a minimum cut the crimps, resplice the connections with outdoor rated connectors. Additionally, axle manufacturers run the wire through the hollow axle tubes. The wire inside is free to move about which can lead to the wire breaking inside the tube or scuffing the insulation from the wire and creating random shorts. The fix there is to bypass and run the wire on top of the axles (lots of wire ties) or run the wire back to the trailer frame and across to the other side.
Gdetrailer 05/17/22 03:33pm Tech Issues
RE: Trailer Brakes Disconnected message

Vehicles from all 3 mfg seem to have the problem show up occasionally. The GM system looks for a given resistance on the brake control wire to determine if the trailer brake system is connected. Once it thinks it is, it continues to monitor and if it goes out of range then the warning comes up. I suspect this is similar on others as well. GM has had a few TSB's on the issue. What I have found it to make sure the connector on the TV and trailer is well seated, and clean. And that the TV connector doesn't have any moisture in it. Also some of the lesser brands of trailer plugs have pretty weak spring force on the contacts, doesn't help. Older controllers that monitored the connection would allow a small voltage to be present on the output. Not enough for the brakes to grab but just enough to see a small current being drawn by the magnets. Newer modern controllers use a timed pulse to see if there is a ring or echo back. No ring or echo, no connection. Timing and size of the echo can also be used to determine connection and poor or bad wiring can affect the detection.. Basically if your wiring is not good, the controller will alert you with a disconnect or random disconnect/reconnects messages..
Gdetrailer 05/17/22 10:01am Tech Issues
RE: Can you list your rv for sale

Did you try listing on craigslist.org ? For RVs it is a free listing, Costs $5.00 in some areas now. I know this is true in WA State. Fee was implemented about a year or so ago. :R You didn't bother to read ALL of the posts, did you? Right above YOUR post I did mention that I stand corrected.. Jeeze..
Gdetrailer 05/14/22 04:14pm Travel Trailers
RE: Purchasing first TT, need a bit of sanity checking advice

GVWR =/= GCWR - Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (Truck by itself or trailer by itself at max loading) - Gross Combined Weight Rating (Total of both truck and trailer combined at max loading) Though you will struggle with the GCWR as you found. Keep in mind battery, propane and water count against the trailer payload, so the odds of you staying within the GCWR is basically nil before you add clothes, food, cooking utensils, kids bikes, firewood, etc... But that still leaves the GVWR as a potential issue....If the 6800 GVWR I found online is correct (check the sticker on the door jam), you have less than 400lb of payload in the truck, once you put the family in it. That's way too light of a hitch weight assuming you put nothing else in the truck. If I already had the truck and was legitimately within a couple hundred pounds, I might try to make do but you are likely going to be over by 800-1000lb if you are very strict about not taking anything unless it's absolutely needed. If you aren't careful, you could easily be 1500-2000lb over some of the limits. That's not something I would be comfortable with. That all makes sense. GVWR of trailer wasn't a major consideration for me since I planned to not pack it to the gills. Also not planning on boondocking, so I shouldn't need to haul the weight of water around except maybe at campsite, and I could keep it unpacked while doing so. GVWR of the truck alone is also concerning as you point out (in addition to the GWCR0. The thing I'm struggling a bit with now is figuring out why my truck weighs in 653lb more than the spec'd base weight. Ram's towing capacity chart specs a base weight of 5407, but my truck weighed in at 6060lbs with the excess pretty evenly split across both axles. I'm about 50lb more than the "driver" used for the spec'd base weight. I do have a few things in the cab, Line-X spray in bedliner, rubber bed mat, bed rails, and ~180lbs of gas. I don't think those should add up to near 653lbs though. If that's normal, I don't see how a 1500 can really tow much of anything unless the trailer has a hitch that weighs pretty much nothing. What you are missing is that spec on paper is BASE WEIGHT. Base weight means and is derived from the absolute barebones configuration of the "base" of the vehicle. The "base" of the vehicle is 4x2, smallest engine, regular cab short bed with the lowest trim level offered and zero other options. Buy a crew cab, that adds weight. Buy a long bed, that adds weight. Buy 4x4, that adds weight. Buy the larger engine above the base engine and that adds weight. Buy the top level trim package with all the trimmings and that adds weight. Buy any dealer add on options, that adds weight. Add up all of those options above the "base" and there is your 600+ lb discrepancy and reduction of your available cargo weight of that amount.. Folks get caught up with that supposed tow rating advertised on paper while never reading and comprehending that the number thrown out there is not what you are going to get once you doll the thing up like a Christmas tree. That "tows up to number" is a number used to "market" the vehicle. The real number is just how much cargo capacity you have to work with which unless you bought the absolute barebones vehicle configuration will be considerably less in real life. Fortunately you have discovered this before committing to a trailer which will be over your available cargo rating..
Gdetrailer 05/11/22 08:48pm Travel Trailers
RE: Can you list your rv for sale

I paid 5.00 for a listing on Craigslist. It is a new fee for vehicles. I sold my trailer on the second day. It was a good sale. I stand corrected.. That explains why so little trash is listed in the RV and trailer section.. Very sad to see they had to do this but it weeded out a lot of the scammers from the auto listings a couple of yrs ago.. $5 for the posting isn't bad and gets you good area coverage and if you priced it right will sell fairly quickly..
Gdetrailer 05/10/22 05:00pm Travel Trailers
RE: Can you list your rv for sale

What are the options to securely handle the money tranfer for a sale? Simple, in person transaction. Never buy unless it has a free and clear title (no leans/bank loans IE "paid off" to keep your transaction simple and clean as possible. For large sums of money you can have your bank wire the money to sellers bank in a one way transaction and of course the reverse if you are selling the buyer can wire the money to you bank. If you have questions about wiring direct bank to bank, ask the bank you deal with on how this is done. Folks seem to think ebay is a safe bet for money, it isn't, lots of hucksters there that will take your money with fake accounts..
Gdetrailer 05/10/22 04:56pm Travel Trailers
RE: Can you list your rv for sale

Did you try listing on craigslist.org ? If you haven't I would suggest trying it. For RVs it is a free listing, easy to setup an account and they give you something like 20 pictures you can load for the add. Go to craigslist.org, search for a city listed closest to you and post your add on that listing.. Big items like RVs really are best sold locally, it is very difficult for both parties to work remotely on looking and buying long distance and myself, I would never want to try buying a RV sight unseen.. If you have been posting on CR and not getting a bite, fair chance you are pricing it way to high.. Folks think their rigs are made of gold, they aren't and right now folks are listing them for 50% higher than the actual market value.. In my area, none of the high and overpriced RVs are moving, the listings have been the same rigs for months.. Just finishing up a deal today for my Father In Law involving a park model (going to tow it home today for my Father In Law), the poster was asking better than 60% higher than what NADA guide stated.. Bought it for NADA average price after haggling and I feel that is still higher than what it should have been.. Funny thing was the seller had tried ebay, wanted me to bid on it without looking at it, told him I don't do that as there are too many shill bidders and non paying bidders.. Told him to contact me when the deal falls through.. Yep, he contacted me when it fell through.. Be realistic in pricing and don't add additional war and flu tax on it in hopes of scoring a retirement bonus..
Gdetrailer 05/10/22 08:08am Travel Trailers
RE: Add USB to my existing DVD player

Your bluray player most likely will have a USB port on it but you may need to look up exactly what file types it will play using the model number. Sometimes the manufacturers will not include decoding of all possible versions of video files in order to save licensing costs. Additionally if it hasn't been used for some time, it may need to connect to the Internet to get newest updates for that player model in order to play anything at all. Ran into that one on a Sony BR player which refused to play even DVDs until it was connected to the Internet to get updated.. Sort of the reason I mentioned the standalone media players, no updates or Internet needed for them.. Try your BR first though, since you have it on hand and have nothing to loose. You could try a search for "home theater", as that is what the 5.1 stereos were called many yrs ago that had the built in DVD players.. Not sure if you will find them new anymore as most manufacturers discontinued making them. Sort of the reason for a separate two piece setup..
Gdetrailer 05/08/22 09:06pm Technology Corner
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