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RE: Quiet generators

The little Honeywell gens are the same way. The name was licensed and that's the only thing about them that's Honeywell. The co. I worked for bought Honeywell some years ago and has been trying to wring a profit out of their (once) good name ever since. X2! Many name brands we grew up with are no longer real MANUFACTURING companies. Remember home electronics like Sylvania, Philco, RCA, Zenith? Yeah, those are just a couple of examples of the use of "branding" to sell rebadged items, Zenith was the LAST holdout that actually made their own products but they eventually succumbed to manufacturing cost pressures and farmed it out.. Many top store brands like Sears would farm out the manufacturing of their name badge products.. Sears VCRS, Hitachi made them, TVs made by Sanyo, Kenmore appliances made by Whirlpool, Tires made by Michalen.. Sears tractors and lawn equipment built by MTD.. Monti Wards did the same as well and on and on.. Brands pretty much now days means NOTHING so don't get so hung up on it, very few brands exist now days that design, manufacture, sell and service their products.
Gdetrailer 10/14/19 08:19pm Tech Issues
RE: Quiet generators

Apparently there are only about seven makers for engines that go in these portable generators, so several brands will have the same look and specs depending on who makes them and sticks the brand labels on. I understand that Ford makes the PowerMax gens for them, and looking at a collection of gens on Amazon, you can see several identical models of assorted brands including a Westinghouse. It is like some years ago, when buying stick-house stoves or washing machines. Lots of different brands all made in the same factory! :) Ford has NOTHING to do with "making" generators/small engines not now and not before now. Ford NEVER made a "small engine" even when back in the day they sold Lawn and garden tractors. If you wish to bet, I do still have a 1977 Ford Lawn and garden tractor. It has a 10HP KOHLER engine and the tractor WAS built by JACOBSEN and you could often interchange parts between the two brands. Ford around late 1970s sold off their Tractor division to New Holland and by agreement New Holland was allowed to "use" the Ford name FOR A SHORT TIME after the sale. What you might see is the Ford name stuck on the side of a generator but it IS NOT MADE BY FORD.. It is LICENSED to PULSAR PRODUCTS per HERE. Pretty much the SAME for WESTINGHOUSE. I HAVE explained this to "Mex" and others on this forum but the jist of this is that the "Westinghouse" that we all grew up with no longer exists and the CONSUMER PRODUCTS you see branded with the "W" name/logo are simply LICENSED to other companies to use. So, in both cases of the "W" and "F" generators they are simply rebadged CHINESE IMPORT GENERATORS. Pretty much every "W" division was sold or spun off until they got down to their Nuclear Power division and their consumer TRADE MARKS/NAME. The current "Westinghouse" that still exists is OWNED by TOSHIBA and STRICTLY only does COMMERCIAL NUCLEAR POWER PRODUCTS and is pretty much sinking Toshiba to the point they are considering selling off their more lucrative business units just to stay afloat.. The consumer "W" trademarks/name was spun off and currently still operates and that is where you find "W" branded TVs, generators and other small fry stuff.. ALL of it is simply rebranded IMPORT items (The Trademark/name Company does not manufacture anything). Pretty much most if not all of the gens you see ARE Chinese clone copies and are imported under many brand names, which is why so many of these gens look similar. Keeping in mind only the Champion brand is the ONLY import company which does sport some service centers and parts support in the US. Comes down to parts and service in reality, IF you are squeamish about warranty (of lack of) then no name brands are not for you and you are better off spending more money upfront for Honda or Yamaha. If you don't mind the idea that there may be little to absolutely no warranty/parts support and willing to take a risk that you will never need to repair your gen for lower upfront cost, then the cheaper no names just might be your ticket. But do not buy other brands (not Honda or Yamaha) assuming that the name plastered on it means it is better or has better support.. If you do, you might be highly disappointed if it breaks especially under warranty..
Gdetrailer 10/14/19 01:38pm Tech Issues
RE: Trailer Brake issues.....

12/2 Romex? If so that is solid wire, not a good choice for this application, you NEED to use STRANDED wire, it will last much longer in any place that the wire is exposed to a lot of flexing (like as the case with trailer brake wiring. Plastic jacketed 12/2 "SJ" type cord (12/3 SJ could be subbed in, just ignore the third wire) or even 12G speaker wire would be far better choice since they are stranded wire since we are talking Hone Depot or Lowes and they HAVE extremely limit choices in what they carry. As far as the coroplast goes, simply run the wire on the UNDERSIDE of the coroplast and attach the wire via wire clamps every couple of feet using screws into the clamps into anything wooden or structural you can. Otherwise poke a couple of holes in the coroplast and FISH the wire back (YES, the wire CAN be left unattached, the corroplast will support the wire). Not sure why coroplast stumps so many people, there IS LOTS of ways to get around this that are not hard or difficult. Finally, Ohming it does not give an accurate picture at extremely low resistances you are working with. Standard ohm meters are not accurate, takes a resistance bridge to get an accurate reading. Much better to use an ammeter and a 12V source (if you use a separate battery or power supply make sure you use a 15A fuse max), with a 12V battery you should get pretty close to 11.5A-12A for four brake magnets.. Get much less than that and you have a lot of bad connections. MORE the 12A and you have a short somewhere.. However, you ARE dealing with an intermittent problem, ohming it or even using a battery/ammeter reading are not going to be helpful since you are in a static non moving situation. Troubleshooting intermittent problems often REQUIRES SUBSTITUTING WITH KNOWN GOOD PARTS. In this case subbing in all new wire along with all new wiring terminations will not cause any harm but it WILL drastically shorten the time you will spend trying to hack the wiring up and troubleshooting one item at a time like you are doing.. The highly intermittent issue IS the reason to simply scrap the cheap junky OEM wiring and move on with new (KNOWN GOOD) better wiring.
Gdetrailer 10/12/19 01:19pm Tech Issues
RE: Trailer Brake issues.....

This isn't brain surgery.. Make your life simpler and just scrap the existing brake wire run from front to the axles and be done with it. The factory often uses too light of wire to start with and it is not worth the hassle to attempt to find the intermittent short in it. Replace the existing wire by upgrading the wire ga 12Ga minimum but larger can often make a huge improvement in your brakes, your brakes will work better than new. You do not need to find and remove the OEM wire, just cut it out on both ends then run the new wire along the trailer frame. While doing that pull each brake drum and inspect the magnet wires, they often get tangled inside the drums with the mechanical arms and damage the insulation which can cause intermittent overloads.
Gdetrailer 10/11/19 09:15pm Tech Issues
RE: Do Flea Collars Really Repel Pests?

I have used a product called "cab fresh" that has been very effective in keeping the mice away. I worry about using bait. It's wonderful when the mice get hold of it. Not so much when a child or dog gets hold of it. I have used traps and don't really care for dealing with dead mice with spring traps so I tried the "live catch" traps and that wasn't much fun either. I often wonder when someone mentions using cab fresh and they never seem to mention that they did or did not have a problem with mice BEFORE using said product.. SO, did YOU have a mice problem BEFORE turning to Cab fresh? Or did you simply start using it just to "prevent" a mouse issue? I had a mice problem with my first TT, ZERO with my second and current TT.. The difference? The first TT I never tried to find and fix all of the possible points of entry.. The second and current TT, I FOUND AND FIXED EVERY SINGLE TINY HOLE that goes to the outside of the trailer.
Gdetrailer 10/08/19 07:31pm General RVing Issues
RE: Do Flea Collars Really Repel Pests?

Bait only as a absolute last resort, trapping would be better, this way you KNOW where they are, baits, not so much.. Baits, they take the bait with them and tend to die in places which you will never be able to get to them.. Have my doubts, folks have tried drier sheets, mice love to use them to make nests for some folks. Folks have used moth balls, pew, terrible odor to clear in the spring but yet mice still take residence for some folks, folks have tried ultrasonic devices, essential oils, smelly soap and on and on but yet mice still leave little presents for some folks.. Yet there are folks who swear by all of these remedies because they have never seen evidence otherwise and others have still had issues with mice despite using all of these remedies.. BEST way is to PREVENT them from finding a way in. This does require a lot of detective work on your part, typically they will come in where ever there is any opening from the outside to the inside that they can squeeze through. It is shocking just how small of an opening they can get through.. I have seen claims from a dime size down to the diameter of a pencil.. So, find the holes where wiring, plumbing and heater ductwork go through the floor to the outside or basement and seal the gaps with something they can't chew through (eliminates GreatStuff spray can foam alone, they can and will chew through it so you were warned!). They CAN and will chew through wood, plastics and soft thin metals like aluminum, copper. Steel will stop them but that is not friendly with electrical wiring or plumbing without lining it with some plastic grommet around the wiring or plumbing.
Gdetrailer 10/08/19 06:56pm General RVing Issues
RE: Deceptive traffic citations

#1 As we approached a so called “construction zone” in the city limits of Tullos I noticed several cones and the sign alerting me to reduce speed ahead from 55 mph to 45 mph and immediately began slowing down. Motor Home drivers know that when you hit the brake and have the “Jake Break” on, the vehicle immediately starts to slow by virtue of the engine compression and this was done by me as soon as I seen the notice to reduce speed. #2 One other important item; Two other vehicles went directly in front of me entering into the reduced speed area going much faster than we were. #3 The police officer writing the citation for 55 mph in a 45 mph zone stated on the ticket that the speed was determined by radar. I was not going 55 mph. The only explanation I could have is the radar is inaccurate or the the radar was shot or initiated just into the notice to reduce speed. #4 Also, why were the two vehicles in front of me ignored? #5 The purpose of the letter is to warn fellow drivers that the city of Tullos and or Parish of Lasalle in Louisiana has a significant campaign going on to fund city budgets via traffic tickets (commonly know as speed traps).There are many reasons for my getting to this conclusion: #6 Motor Home drivers are some of the safest drivers on the road (we understand our restrictions to maintain safety). #7 Who gives a ticket for 55 mph and a 45 mph zone? Is there any room for an equipment malfunction by needing to be recalibrated? Why were two other vehicles allowed to go through the area faster than myself? I can’t be sure but maybe they were locals and not an out of town tag. #8 My plan moving forward is to share this experience with the many RV clubs and travel organizations we are members of. I hope that my fellow travelers take notice of the unreasonable citation issuing practices and stay clear of Lasalle parish. Below is what I’ll be sharing so there is no confusion. #9 Fellow travelers: Stay away from this, in my humble opinion, deceitfully run city of Tullos and or Lasalle parish. The local officials obviously can’t think through ligament and reasonable ways to fund and run the city effectively and turn to trickery or worst by trickery and penalizing law abiding out of town people. #10 Last but certainly not least; I have paid the $241.50 to the city of Tullos, against my better judgement. Debton #1 Construction zone WAS "announced" BEFORE you got to it or the restricted construction zone speed. YOU failed to appropriately take action and prepare to slow down properly by using ALL means including riding your brakes and not relying solely on the "Jake brake" which does not announce to motorists behind you that you are slowing down.. Your failure to obey the laws. #2 IRRELEVANT. You made a personal choice to "follow" the two vehicles in front of you without taking appropriate action. Your failure to obey the laws. #3 Radar detectors used in the Police force ARE required to be properly calibrated AND CERTIFIED against a known good source. These are typically sent out to a third party periodically and recertified as required. That information is typically tracked and traceable. I could possibly see maybe 1 or 2 MPH error if the unit is near end of calibration period or has suffered some sort of major damage.. But not 10 MPH. Perhaps YOU need to have YOUR MH speedometer calibration tested? Extremely good chance that your Speedo is off and not the Radar gun. Your failure to obey the laws. #4 Once again totally IRRELEVANT, what OTHERS ARE DOING IS NONE OF YOUR BUSINESS and has absolutely nothing to do with your error. YOU got caught, they didn't, still your fault for not obeying the laws. Your failure to obey the laws. #5 Warn all you like, but I bet from now on you WILL be obeying the laws and THAT is what counts. WIN for law enforcement to at least get ONE person to obey. #6 No, I have seen MH drivers doing things contrary to the law and quite often! I drive a lot of Interstate road for my commute, have seen many shady things pulled by MH drivers. Just because you drive a MH does not mean you can swerve in and out of traffic like a Indy car.. MH drivers are not above the law nor are any other motorist, the difference here is you got caught and they didn't.. Funny story, at a previous job a co-worker was asked to take a server to the airport for a same day delivery. Co-worker was being paid OT and had plenty of time to get the server on the plane. Got pulled over for doing 15 over speed limit. Company would not pay for the ticket so Co-worker took a day off to go to court. Had a bunch of drawings showing where the speed limit signs were and where the police pulled him over in order to get out of the ticket. At the end, he made s stupid mistake of saying that the traffic behind him "may" have been "pushing" him.. Judge said something like 1 MPH over? CoWorker replies yeah. Judge replies well you admitted to being over, here is your fine plus court costs.. Judge told him that he WAS going to toss the case until the last remark. 1 MPH IS over and that IS the law, there is no "unwritten" law or rule that states they will give you "grace" period over the posted limit. That leads into #7, ALL Police CAN AND ARE SUPPOSED TO pull you over for being over the limit, that is why there are called limits. They are NOT called "Suggested Retail Speeds". More often they will let it ride up to 5 MPH provided your not doing something dangerous or any other moving violations have been seen.. However, pretty much any State are very serious about Work zones safety and will fine you at a higher rate (usually posted in the work zones that fines are increased). #9 Folks often have no choice but to drive through areas, including the area that you are telling folks to avoid. #10 You got caught, you paid the fine, you did the right thing. Failing to pay the fine could have eventually snowballed into much higher and costly fines and possibility of another court date and that judge may not be so nice to a scofflaw. Move on. Nothing to see.
Gdetrailer 10/08/19 05:18pm General RVing Issues
RE: Replacing a Travel Trailer floor

Yes it is a sandwich of luan. the Luan was completely rotted on the upper layer and the foam was a bit moldy. I wont be paying 5 grand for a 21 foot trailer floor, but I would be ok with 2 grand. OK, to put this into perspective.. Not including materials or taxes this is what $2K gets you.. $25 per hr, gives you 80 hrs of labor $50 per hr, gives you 40 hrs of labor $100 per hr, gives you 20 hrs of labor. $150 per hr, gives you 13.3 hrs of labor. Now, take into consideration the amount of work YOU did to fix ONE spot you should easily be able to see the problem here.. Additionally, keep in mind the person you hire, just may not be all that caring about how it is fixed or what they may damage or break in the process of repairing the floor. Even worse is the fact you ARE also looking for help in New England states, an insanely costly place to live with insanely high cost of goods and services.. Had a Brother that lived in VT, paid 4 times more for stuff than states south of New York, you would swear that VT was some remote island.. Unless you are firmly attached to this trailer you might really wish to consider replacing it if you are not wanting to finish fixing it.. I have fully rebuilt two different TTs, it is a labor of love, not planning to EVER rebuild another, it is a lot of labor. Took me 9 months on my current TT to completely gut inside and out, replace all of the rotted wood (rot just kept going) then build all new cabinets, resided it and reroofed it on top. Yeah, I did buy it knowing it was rotted and yes, I intended to gut it. You may not be intending to gut, but, until you start ripping things apart there is no way to know for sure..
Gdetrailer 10/06/19 02:12pm Travel Trailers
RE: Need a Hispec wheel center cap

Yeah, point taken, 6 vs 5 spoke isn't going to line up well.. Alright, perhaps this is where Ebay might be a good possibility? Found this there.. https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/fvkAAOSwhn5dS2n2/s-l1600.jpg height=200 width=300 Although it looks like the spokes are set at angles on these caps.. Doesn't say what series but does say 5 lug which typically should be for 15" rims. Can find them HERE on Ebay.. You could also look up some of the RV surplus outlets in Indiana, bunch of those that buy up leftover surplus inventory when the RV manufacturers end of life a model.. You could also check with E-Trailer, their website shows they sell Hispec rims.. Perhaps they might be able to help? HISPEC AT E-TRAILER LINK
Gdetrailer 10/05/19 08:30pm Travel Trailers
RE: Laptop battery difference Metal hydride vs Lith ion

i would return it, not going to be even close to the performance. Humm, I thought 5200 ma would outperform 4600 ma. Two different technologies have distinctly DIFFERENT discharge characteristics.. Metal hydride discharge is not as flat as Lith ion so 5200 ma Metal Hydride might give slightly less run time than 4600 ma Lith ion. Lith ion has a very long flat discharge curve, the down side to that is when it is empty, it cuts of much faster than Metal Hydride. I do have a concern though when mixing, the laptop will have special battery charging management system designed exclusively for Lith ion which may or may not play well.. I would tend to agree with returning it. I would suggest buying a Genuine OEM replacement from a reputable dealer or even from the manufacturer for best results. HINT, EBAY IS NOT "REPUTABLE" PLACE TO BUY OEM BRANDED PARTS! Lots of FAKED PARTS out there on the wobbly web, ANYONE can make up a brand sticker and slap it on cheaply made parts..
Gdetrailer 10/05/19 07:27pm Technology Corner
RE: Well... I see a new trend

You folks haven't seen anything yet. A few days ago, the courts made the death of "Net Neutrality" official. The BIG players and internet providers can now control everything about the way you access the internet. Money rules! BIG Money corrupts everything it touches. "Net Neutrality" was a COMPLETELY UNENFORCEABLE FARCE piece of legislation. Would have ultimately COST TAX PAYERS AND ALL USERS in higher taxes PLUS ADDITIONAL SERVICE FEES which would have been passed on to YOU the CONSUMER WHO BUYS AND USES THE INTERNET CONNECTION. Additionally by attempting to "level the playing field" you now squash out any additional technological advances which would increase bandwidth and equipment because now there would no longer be any incentive for companies to do R&D or spend money on upgrading infrastructure. So what, your "You tube" channel may not be quite as fast as someone else s, WHO CARES?? As long as it doesn't buffer it WILL STILL WORK fine.
Gdetrailer 10/05/19 07:15pm Technology Corner
RE: Need a Hispec wheel center cap

Does it HAVE to be "Series 01"? Found Series 06.. https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/41i95mRpsaL.jpg height=300 width=300 Found it HERE Expensive but buy 4 of the 06 version and replace them all and call it a day.. Found pix of the 01 on Hispec's website.. http://www.hispecwheel.com/content_th_big/CATEGORY155_Series01-Cap-Silver.jpg height=300 width=300 Comparing the two, it does look like a series 06 might work, the only difference is in the middle of the cap.. You could contact Hipsec directly and ask how to get Series 01 replacement.. Use THIS LINK to get their phone number..
Gdetrailer 10/05/19 06:56pm Travel Trailers
RE: Replacing a Travel Trailer floor

You might want to rethink having someone fix it, it will be costly.. Typical RV shop rates, you can expect $100-$150 PER HR labor charges. Most "handyman" type jack of all trades type of folks most likely will be $50-$60 PER HR, if your lucky. Could easily find yourself facing $5K or more in repairs paying at current labor rates. Depending on the distance of the damage may even require major demo of cabinets and walls, don't know until you rip into it. I would ALSO agree, make sure you have fixed the leaks first, otherwise all of that repair will be for naught. If you are not interested in fixing yourself, perhaps put it up for sale and clearly list the reasons and price it reasonably as a handyman special.
Gdetrailer 10/05/19 03:52pm Travel Trailers
RE: Printer

Ok, as the original poster, I am interested in the NECESSITY to have a printer along. And if so, what you use it for and any general tips on the subject. Sorry, maybe I should have been more clear in my post. Thanks for all the responses. In our case, I will not be printing airline boarding passes while in the motor home. With the GPS apps on our personal electronic devices I don't necessarily see any need to print out directions. But is there a need for a printer that I am not thinking of? RR, ONLY YOU can answer YOUR question, no one else can answer it. Perhaps the better way is to reverse the question to you.. How much printing AT HOME do you do? Very little, 1-2 pages a month? (most likely no need) More 1-2 pages per WEEK? (most likely NICE TO HAVE) Reams of pages PER DAY? (TOTALLY ESSENTIAL TO HAVE) How important to you is having a hard copy printed document in your hands immediately while camping? Can you DELAY printing a document until you get home? What DO YOU PRINT AT HOME that you might want to be able to print while camping? High resolution pictures? Junk Farcebook pictures? Hard copy operation manuals? Hard copy of reservations? (yeah, having a hard copy did save our bacon once when the campground LOST our reservation we made a yr in advance, but we printed it at home BEFORE we left). Type of printer also depends on your desired outcome, color high res photos, Inkjet will give better results than color or B&W laser, although for longer lasting photos in a snap, send them to Walmart or Sams and have them printed on a professional photo printer (prices are much cheaper when adding in ink cart cost). Simple text with some photos you don't care about, B&W laser is the way to go. Simple text in color and some color photos in the text would be nice to have then color laser might be the ticket. Camping style, with shore power 100% or completely off the grid? Shore power camping laser is a good choice. Off the grid, inkjet would be the better choice since it will operate from an battery/inverter with no problem. Laser off grid while might be do able, but would require a hefty inverter to be able to deal with the high startup surge that they draw so much less ideal for this stye of camping. As far as small "compact" travel size printers goes, they are pretty much a novelty. Often have no paper tray and will just gravity feed just a couple of pages at a time making a large print job an long aggravating process of refilling the small feed hopper. Only YOU can really answer your question..
Gdetrailer 10/01/19 04:05pm General RVing Issues
RE: Printer

That's one thing I'm trying to figure out by posting here. Curious to see if others have/use a printer while traveling. We haven't taken a printer the 15 yrs we have been camping, YET. However, when we camp there is almost always one of those moments that I wished I DID have a printer :S Things like RESERVATION acknowledgement paperwork or even printed directions to some obscure scenic place.. When you are used to having a choice of printing to three different printers at home or multiple printers at work camping with a PC and NO printer IS roughing it.. My preference goes to a laser printer for extremely low usage or extremely long periods of time between printing.. Toner does not freeze, does not clog and most likely will still be good for the next 100 yrs.. Inkjet printers on the other hand the cartridges dry up in short time after you open them OR even more diabolical is the fact that most of the major inkjet printer manufacturers LOCK down the printer to FRESH OEM ONLY cartridges! Many of the inkjet printers read a chip on the cartridge and if the chip says it is out of date, NO MORE PRINTING HAPPENS. For those who say go with inkjet and if the cartridge dries out, just change it.. Perhaps you would be willing to fork out the $30-$60 PER cartridge when it dries out for the OP after sitting a yr? For $40-$60 you can buy a new inkjet printer. You are better off buying brand new inkjet printers every yr or less for the cost of the replacement cartridges. Yes, there are "tank" inkjets, however they DO have issues with the printhead clogging from lack of use and they cost more upfront. That is the cold hard facts of inkjets, USE THEM OR LOSE THEM..
Gdetrailer 09/30/19 03:27pm General RVing Issues
RE: AT&T TV

No, why? HATE "bundles", usually get much less value for much more cost.. ATT has literately thousands of possible package combinations, perhaps pick one THEN ask. One bundle is Direct Satellite dish service with Internet streaming on your phone.... Not going to save you any money if that is what you are looking for, especially to get the supposed "free" TV streaming on your phone, takes a pretty expensive phone service package to get that.
Gdetrailer 09/28/19 04:28pm Technology Corner
RE: Sound like a good deal?

# 1 All I am going to say, is everyone needs to read their loan documents. They will specify how payments are applied. And how interest is calculated. And what is in the documents is how it will work.... #2 Writing a note with an extra payment DOES NOT change the loan contract that you signed. #3 BTW, Everytime I bought a house, thay always figure in a set amount of DAYS (usually 15) interest into the loan for closing purposes. #4 Many years ago, I accidently made an extra house payment. Upon discovering my mistake, I decided to skip the next payment, as I was a payment ahead.... I was charged a late fee, and had to make that next payment! Because my loan contract specified that extra payments were to go to reducing the principle of the loan, and that monthly payments were required! Bottom line.... READ your loan documents! No need to get huffy. #1 Correct, you are signing a legal binding contract, they are going to hold you to the terms you agreed to whether you read and understand them or not. #2, No where have I said that writing a note will change the loan contract. Back in the day, banks sent you a FULL COUPON BOOK OF PAYMENTS FOR THE YEAR. On those coupons you had A SPECIFIC SPACE WHERE YOU SPECIFIED ANY EXTRA AMOUNT BEING SENT AND HOW YOU WANTED THAT AMOUNT TO BE APPLIED. Fast forward to today, with advent of direct account access they may or may not send a payment book, HOWEVER YOU CAN STILL ADD EXTRA MONEY TOWARDS THE PRINCIPLE provided it is a open ended loan (if you do not know what a open ended and closed ended loan, LOOK IT UP AND LEARN. We have done this with not only a mortgage but FIVE VEHICLES over the years and have never had any issues with the banks not following our direction on how to apply the extra funds. With direct auto payment loans you can simply go to your lender bank and specify that you want to pay extra towards your principle. It IS that simple. #3 I see where you got confused (and anything to do with a home mortgage IS confusing to start with).. Banks like a lot of businesses do a financial closing of their books on a MONTHLY BASIS. This typically is at the end of the month and can follow into the beginning of the next month. They typically will want to have your payment due before or after that monthly closing so typically your payment date will either be due the first week of the new month or on the last week of the month. SO, they will often PRORATE the interest owed if you sign in between those times on to your first payment in order to get you on to THEIR PAYMENT CYCLE. You don't pay more interest over all (just the first payment will not apply quite as much towards the principle), it is nothing more than a accounting and payment timing thing.. #4 You made a mistake and assumed that you could "skip" a payment, your fault for not ASKING THE BANK WHAT TO DO, not the banks fault. YES, THE BANK WANTS PAID, you failed to pay them as required. NOT ALL bank loans specify that any extra funds will be applied to the principle (NONE OF MY LOANS HAVE EVER HAD THAT SPECIFIED) and that is WHY IT IS IMPORTANT TO TELL THEM THAT IT IS TO BE APPLIED THAT WAY. All else fails and you don't understand something SPEAK UP AND ASK! Banks will not bite you if you ask to have a clarification. As long as the loan is an open ended loan most banks will be happy to apply $1 or thousands of dollars towards the loan principle, heck they will have no problem getting a loan payoff amount IF YOU ASK THEM. You do not need to apply a huge sum of money, even an extra $10 per month applied to the principle CAN make a huge difference in loan length and the interest you will pay. I am sure the OP is long gone by now..
Gdetrailer 09/27/19 05:27pm Travel Trailers
RE: Sound like a good deal?

#1 This is a common misconception that has a basis in fact. #2 Generally (maybe always now) interest on a loan is calculated daily. #3 So if you make a payment every two weeks, you will pay interest on each payment..... #4 But that interest is based on the outstanding balance, and days since the last payment. #5 So even though you will be paying interest each time, it will be LESS than it would have been. #6 IOW, it makes no difference in the total interest paid. #7 Where the basis in fact originates is on a home loan with an escrow account for taxes and insurance. In this case, your extra payment can end up in the escrow account, where it will not reduce the loan at all.... This is when you need to specify where the extra money is to go. #1 No, not a "misconception" on my part. #2 Loan interest IS NOT and NEVER has been and NEVER WILL BE "calculated daily" period. We are not talking about your standard "bank accounts" like checking or savings where the bank requires a minimum average balance or they charge you or in the case of savings not pay interest. Interest on a loan is calculated ONCE PER PAYMENT PERIOD, not daily. You payment period could be twice a month or once a month, banks have no reason to recalculate daily. #3 :? Don't understand as to why anyone would want to pay every two weeks if their loan term is ONCE A MONTH which is typical AND standard payment schedule.. MUCH better to simply INCLUDE an extra amount TOWARDS THE PRINCIPLE ONLY (AND YES YOU MUST SPECIFY PRINCIPLE FOR ANY LOAN). You just making things even more muddy.. #4 Yes, your interest owed IS calculated from the "outstanding balance", but it is done ONCE PER PAYMENT TERM. You CAN however REQUEST a loan payoff amount at ANYTIME and that is where they will recalculate the interest owed prorated from the last payment. #5 While you COULD do this, WHY would you pay P&I when you can specify HOW that extra money can be applied! Think about this for a moment.. If your loan payment is $200 and $100 of that is only being applied to the PRINCIPLE that means your balance is decreasing in half which means you end up paying in MORE INTEREST.. Think about how much faster the loan balance gets reduced if you pay $400 AND SPECIFY the $200 EXTRA is to go towards the loan balance! Banks by default treats any extra funds as an advance towards your NEXT scheduled payment and applies it as such. Yes, you will pay your loan down faster but not as fast as specifying how to apply the extra funds. #6, IT DOES make a HUGE difference on how extra funds are applied, folks are just to lazy to think or do anything about it.. #7, We are not talking about "home loans" however the SAME CONCEPT OF SPECIFYING HOW THE EXTRA FUNDS ARE APPLIED WORKS ON ANY OPEN ENDED LOANS INCLUDING AUTO/RV/PERSONAL LOANS. By the way, ZERO % loans are always CLOSED ENDED LOANS, if you pay them off early you save NOTHING, the interest is already baked in because they often take away the factory "incentives" which would have lowered the price of your purchase (FINE PRINT FOLKS, READ IT BEFORE SIGNING!).. Found a Amortization calculator which includes optional extra payment (they call it "prepayment") which you can specify the amount extra and what effect it has on your loan term and how much interest over the loans life.. You can check it out HERE
Gdetrailer 09/26/19 05:03pm Travel Trailers
RE: Sound like a good deal?

In my experience a retail bank (especially the major banking chains) don't give a better interest rate than a car or RV dealer. Credit unions may be able to offer lower interest rate but that comes with larger down payment requirements and shorter loan terms than dealer financing can offer. Much we don't know about the OP's situation financially though he did acknowledge some significant factors about income and employment. The dealer offer on the RV he was offered might be the best he can get. Since it's a simple interest loan offer, he can always accelerate the payments if he can afford to and pay the loan early without penalty. Our last RV purchase was financed for 15 years, we paid it off in 7. Longer loan terms tend to have HIGHER INTEREST RATES, especially more so with HIGHER RISK LOANS like a RV. It is something to take into consideration especially with a RV which in 5-6 yrs has nearly zero resale value when compared to what it was valued at the time of purchase. Not to mention a 15yr loan you ARE paying the majority of interest back on the loan in the first 2/3rds of the term. Paying off early can save money provided you consistently pay extra towards the PRINCIPLE BORROWED every month. Best bet as always is to take THE SHORTEST LOAN TERMS you can afford easily THEN add extra payments towards the PRINCIPLE (you MUST SPECIFY this otherwise they apply the extra to BOTH P & I). Bought a house on a 15 yr mortgage, payed extra towards the Principle every month, paid off in 11 yrs saving a considerable amount in interest. All of our vehicles we take a 5 yr loan and pay it off in about 2 yrs.. We also do not go for top feature/gadget load high dollar stuff either, we buy well below our means in order to keep from needing long loan terms. That is where mortgage amortization calculators are your friends. Very wise use of credit.. RV dealers like auto dealers and even realtors love folks who have no real knowledge about loans or finances which is why they tend to find a sweet spot in your payment comfort levels.. Then they will simply extend the length of your loan to work out the payments to your liking.. Favorite line is "what payment amount do you want".. OP, Sorry for derailing the thread..
Gdetrailer 09/25/19 04:19pm Travel Trailers
RE: Sound like a good deal?

My credit score is 785 however I'm self employed and show a low income so wouldn't that keep me from getting a loan at a bank? Also, yes I would keep the trailer for 12 years or more. My last one I kept for 20 years. Im also looking at it as a second home when I retire in 2-3 years. Depends. Low income and low debt ratio coupled with good credit score should not be much of deterrent to a bank. Does not hurt to ask, start at YOUR bank that you deal with then go from there. As far as keeping a RV 12 yrs or more, yeah, that saves you money however, one does need to account for the "what ifs" in life.. Kind of like a few folks I know, one had a setback in health, self employed so not working they do not make a cent.. Have to figure out how to pay the bills with zero income.. If they had a RV and paying a loan on that, wouldn't you think that the RV should go? But, you simply can't because you are so upside down on the loan you would never be able to sell it for enough to pay it off.. Catch 22 and real life..
Gdetrailer 09/22/19 08:13pm Travel Trailers
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