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 > Your search for posts made by 'Gdetrailer' found 306 matches.

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RE: Gas station guide

When we had a diesel motor home we had a guide (hard copy) that we could look up locations that sold diesel fuel. We now have a gasser and I'm wondering if there is a book or website that helps locate gas stations that are accessible while towing a car. In other words, gas stations that I can get into and out of with the car connected. Our motor home is 35'. :R USE YOUR EYES, you don't "need" a "guide". You went from a Diesel to GASOLINE engine. Far MORE stations sell GASOLINE than diesel. You have made your life easier! Size up the station before committing to enter, small station with restricted access to pumps, MOVE ON, there are plenty of other stations out there that will have the space you need. I look for stations which moves the vehicle traffic side to side of the station building and avoid any station which requires the traffic to move towards/away from the station building. Heck, I tow a 26ft TT with a full sized pickup, over all length of of nearly 50FT which makes it longer than your rig unless you have a "towed" behind. I have not had all that much trouble fitting into stations which are not small..
Gdetrailer 12/04/19 04:02pm General RVing Issues
RE: Home Theater Receiver Replacement w/ surround Speakers

Maybe you could find an electronics place that would repair it. http://www.sherv.net/cm/emo/laughing/laughing-hard-smiley-emoticon.gif I don't care who you are, but that there is downright funny.. Way back in the early 2000s I took my beloved DVD player to a Sony repair shop.. They kept it for a week then notified me that the repair was going to be $150.. I paid $100 for it only 4 yrs before it died.. Keeping in mind, I USED to work for TV/Audio repair shops even I KNOW when it is time to call it a day and play "Taps" on electronic devices. OP is not going to find many repair shops for consumer electronics, they have for the most part gone the way of Dinosaurs due to new electronic devices getting so inexpensive and know one is willing to pay more to repair something that can be replaced with a new shiny device which has more "features". It is pretty near 2020, not 1990, video has evolved so much that "Home Theaters" with DVD players in a box have gone by the way of Dinosaurs. Op most likely will need to spring for a HOME THEATER RECEIVER with multi channel sound decode w built in multi channel amps AND a SEPARATE DVD or BluRay player and connect them via HDMI cable. Personally, SEPARATE IS ALWAYS BETTER, DVD and BluRay players will tend to die before any good quality receiver and speakers.. DVD players are dirt cheap, you would be hard pressed to pay more than $29 for a DVD player..
Gdetrailer 12/02/19 04:45pm Technology Corner
RE: 12V TVs - Size from 24-32

What you are asking for is a TV with an EXTERNAL "12V" power supply (AKA power brick). Pretty much all manufacturers have abandoned external power supplies for larger TVs for various reasons. You might still find some of the smaller TVs in sub 20" size IF you can even find those smaller TVs. I understand your reasoning to eliminate the extra power wasted by not using a 12 to 120V inverter then a 12V power supply.. But really, get over it, the very small tiny amount of power used to get the 120V via an inverter is so minute it amounts to expanding your TV viewing by MINUTES (yeah, sub 60 minutes) for say 24 hrs of useage. In other words, not worth the hassle to fight what is NOW a "standard" in TVs (a internal power supply). Additionally, you do need to understand that the TVs that did or might use an external 12V brick did so without taking BATTERY "12V" into consideration. Battery "12V" is not 12V, it is actually 13.8 nominal and can range from 11V (dead) to 14.4V (CHARGING). Most of the TVs which used a 12V external power supply are EXPECTING 12.0V NOMINAL for proper operation (12.0V is COMPUTER "12V" and a computer typically is designed to work from 11.9-12.1V). Operation below or above computer 12V is not guaranteed and may result in your TV not operating correctly or even DAMAGE to the TV. The ONLY times it is really safe to use a TV on a 12V battery is IF the TV was DESIGNED specifically for battery operation and it will have a power input port which is labeled 13.8V. Anything else and you ARE taking your chances. Buy a SMALL inverter (200W-300W) to run your TV and forget about trying to find your "unicorn" TV.. Small inverters use less power and using one that is not over sized means you will be operating within the highest efficiency range which is above 50% load.
Gdetrailer 12/01/19 11:44am Technology Corner
RE: Buying travel trailer by phone w/o visiting dealership?

I am simply amazed and often shocked at just how much effort folks put into finding "the ideal" RV for a special layout or a special deal. Its a RV folks, basically a SHELTER from weather, a place to lay your head for the night, sometimes a place to cook a meal inside and sometimes a place to get out of the rain, snow, heat, cold.. I would not ever consider driving 100 miles or even 50 miles for a RV, they are a commodity, they are cheaply made for a cheap audience, they are readily available pretty much anywhere you can drive to within 50 miles one way for most folks. Dealerships are everywhere, used ones all over the place also.. Most folks do not keep a RV for long, often suffering from the "super size mentality.. Kind of reminds me of a friend of mine, spent 4 yrs designing the perfect home then finding a builder then having his "dream house" built.. Spent $50K on the ideal 1/2 acre lot in just the right neighborhood and $450K on the house.. 5yrs down the road and ended up in a divorce, lost the house to now ex and kids.. Now lives in a $400 per month shoe box apartment and has another 10 yrs to pay of the mortgage on the ex wifes house.. Find a RV that you can live with that is close at hand and move on.. Folks put way to much effort into a mobile shoe box..
Gdetrailer 11/30/19 01:27pm Travel Trailers
RE: Propane Question

I understand that you are asking "Just In Case" but, if you have power hook up why not take an electric space heater to supplement the propane heater. I do plan to run a a space heater as the main source of heat, but I always like to plan for the worse, especially with my 8-10 yr old boys. "What if" I did just buy two #30 tanks, Home Depot has them on sale on line for $40 with free shipping to your local store Brian Good plan, you may need to extend the metal rod between the cylinders in order to get the tank clamp on. Additionally, may need to buy longer pigtails or relocate the regulator so the pigtails reach the taller cylinders. It is extremely important to tell the propane filling station that you have NEW cylinders that have never been filled. Brand new cylinders have to be purged of the air inside, the filling station should know how to do this properly. Failure to purge will result in nearly no liquid propane to enter the tank due to the air inside and you will get pretty much no propane to use especially if the station is not weighing the cylinder while filling (relying on the OPD valve to stop the fill).
Gdetrailer 11/30/19 08:38am Travel Trailers
RE: Super duper plug in code scanner w. WiFi?

I have a small code scanner module where you plug it in, it wakes up and makes WiFi. You use an app on your phone to read the codes. I have been watching repair videos and see guys with these seemingly much better code scanners. Is there a pro level scanner that is in this small module format and if so, what do you recommend? First question is WHY do you "need" a scanner? If you simply want to "monitor" other things going on with your engine then a cheap OBD2 dongle and a Android phone/table can do what you seek. However, leaving those dongles plugged in all the time sometimes CAN cause phantom malfunctions causing you trying to diagnose false errors. Not to mention many "Apps" for Android are not reliable/stabil and some are just plain junk. Many "Apps" may not be able to reset the modules or even read all of the modules in your vehicle (like ABS and BCM). Reality is you do not "need" a scanner unless you get the CEL/MIL light. THAT is the time a code reader comes in real handy. It is hard to beat real standalone OBD2 scanners, I have a Harbor Freight one I bought 8 yrs ago for $60 with a coupon can also read live data. Has saved me several thousands of Dollars that I would have spent at a dealer in repairs (I bought the scanner after a dealer scammed me out of $800 one trip for a fuel pump, then another trip for $900 for new plugs, then another trip for $500 for a new CAT and they still had not fixed the original issue!). For the money well worth it and now is a required tool that one should have if you plan to do some work on your vehicles. You can get HF scanners starting at $30 now days and they can reset/clear CEL/MIL codes but not read live data. The $70 level can read live data (engine running) and $120 level adds in ABS codes and reset. $190 level adds SRS (Supplemental Restraint System which is your crash AIRBAGS). HF OBD2 CODE READERS I personally am considering buying a new scanner and most likely will get the one that has ABS/SRS just because every time I have taken a vehicle to a Dealer or Garage I have gotten soaked at a min of $1,000 EACH time and they didn't fix the problem and required multiple returns.
Gdetrailer 11/27/19 12:24pm Tech Issues
RE: Propane Question

Every time I had my empty 20# tank filled, it took 5 gallons to fill, our 30# tanks will take 7 to 7.2 gallons to fill when empty. It shouldn't take 5 gallons to fill a 20#. Propane should weigh 4.22 pounds per gallon which equates to 4.73 gallons for 20#, so I was low when I said 4.5 gallons. That's assuming it's filled to capacity which can vary by who is doing the filling. Assumption is OPD should kick in at 20# but I don't know how precise those are. 7.1-7.2 gallons should be spot on for a completely empty 30# tank. Also, to be fair, I did round the usage saying approximately 1/4 gallon per hour. So, assuming 91500 BTU/HR capacity 20000/91500=.2185745 gallons per hour or 21.64 hours for 4.73 gallons. All these calculations are very precise, but reality isn't so precise. I seriously doubt the 20K BTU is 100% efficient and exactly 20K BTU. I also seriously doubt that if you take 10 random 20# propane tanks any of them will hold exactly 4.73 gallons of usable propane. So, I would say approximately 20 hours of continuous run time from a full 20# tank. Again noting if you use exchange tanks they will almost certainly never be full when exchanged. Happy, I suspect that your first "rounded" 18 hrs is a bit closer to reality, especially when dealing with temps below 32F. RV propane systems require propane VAPOR, the cylinders are designed to deliver VAPOR but in reality it is filled with LIQUID. So, the tank must convert the liquid propane into VAPOR. The conversion of liquid propane to vapor propane slows down in extreme cold. This means you will get to a point where there is still liquid propane in the tank but yet you do not get enough vapor. In other words, less capacity in cold weather. On a good note, as someone else mentioned, 18 hrs would be if the furnace ran continuously, in reality it should be able to cycle on/off. That can vary from running say 5 minutes per hr in warm weather to full 60 min per hr in extreme cold. Depends on outside temp, winds, how much insulation the RV has and the inside set temp. I suspect that if OP has dual switchover with 2 20lb cylinders they would have enough propane for 2 days of extreme weather camping.. But, for comfort level, perhaps bring a third 20 lb cylinder. If the OP is planning to make a habit of cold weather camping, I would recommend they consider looking into if it is possible to upgrade to 30 lb cylinders.. They are taller and do weigh more, but would reduce the need to haul around a spare 20 lb cylinder..
Gdetrailer 11/27/19 09:39am Travel Trailers
RE: Howling wind

I tow in stronger winds. Very poor decisions can result in "MR Murphy" paying you a visit. Driving in high winds facing you might be OK, on the right or left side, not so much a good idea. Does not take a whole lot of wind hitting your broadside to roll you on the side, happens to truckers and can happen to RVs which are high profile vehicles like semi tractors. A fool and their RV will be soon departed if you are not careful.. I once got stuck on an Interstate for 10 miles in a Microburst, 60+ MPH winds from the west hitting my driverside, was no exits to be had.. Could not risk moving to shoulder of the road and parking which was a pretty steep drop and angle from the pavement. Doing so would have altered the COG of my trailer unfavorably and would have made it much easier for the wind to push my trailer over. Instead, I chose to crawl behind a line of semi trucks under 5 MPH until we cleared the Microburst. It was not fun, enjoyable, relaxing, nor safe but was safer than pulling off on the shoulder. I managed safely, but I would NEVER, EVER recommend doing so unless it is the absolute last resort.
Gdetrailer 11/25/19 03:17pm General RVing Issues
RE: Non-renewable Lithium...Fact.

This entire thread should be deleted as it is based on the right wing talking point of "EVs bad!". The statement "can't be recycled" is totally false. Many companies have started successful recycling programs and here in Nevada where I live, lithium mining by evaporating salts is big business utilizing the old "poison waterholes" from old Western movies to get some use out of lifeless, desolate wasteland area. Myself, I have been driving electric over 7 years now, the last two getting fueled for free from our rooftop solar. The carbon industry is scared to death of electric vehicles wiping away their livelyhood and so are car dealers as, like I can assure you from my personal use, maintainance and repair of electric vehicles is a tiny fraction of that of petroleum cars. Most electric cars never get their brakes replaced unless parts rust off from age. While it IS "possible" to "recycle" (as in fully break down a Lith battery to the basic components and purity) the problem is to do so IS prohibitively EXPENSIVE to do so. To break down all of the components to their purest form that is required takes considerable amount of more energy than just digging up new raw material and processing it to a ready usable product. This is where old fashioned Lead Acid batteries shine, they are easy to break down, reprocess and make new batteries from without adding a drop of lead to them. NOBODY is going to be willing to pay MORE for a vehicle or battery which is tagged as "RECYCLED" or contains "RECYCLED CONTENT". The cost will be much higher than a new battery.. My suspicion is majority of EV owners will not ever consider repairing their car when it breaks or when the battery fails, instead they are going to treat it just like they do with pretty much their Iphones, TVs and other items.. It will be traded in for a "new" model, the old one will simply be sent directly to the scrap yard. It is nothing more than an "appliance". Just because it can be made, does not mean it is environmentally friendly.. Folks now days demand having the newest, latest, greatest things with more bells buzzers and whistles to break.. How about just a SIMPLE, no frills basic vehicle which does not cost so much you have to put it on a 20 yr payment plan? I don't need a self driving car, I don't need internet in my car, I don't need a game console in my car, I don't need a 360 camera in my car.. Four wheels, brakes, motive power, steering wheel and a seat and a simple body with some heat and AC for comfort. The sad thing is 10, 20, 30 yrs or more our grandkids and their grand kids will be left with to deal with heaps and heaps of these so called "environmentally friendly" worn out EV batteries littering the earth when discarded.
Gdetrailer 11/24/19 01:46pm Tech Issues
RE: 24 - 26ft Rear Kitchen? USED (With deep slide for dinette)

I'm specifically not interested in purchasing new. Was looking more for used options. I also dont need a very long slide. Just want it to be deep for a larger dinette. I come from a family of taller people so if I wanted my father or either brother to stay with me I would need the secondary bed option to be longer than the usual 68" or 72" couch options that usually come in the smaller slideouts. Yeah, I am going to throw a wet blanket on your party. You are being extremely picky for USED. Even if you can pin it down to a small handful of models, you ARE dealing with USED market. What you decide on may take a week or 20 yrs to find a specific model for sale and even then may require you to search across many states. In other words it is like searching for a needle in a haystack! Rather than spending so much time and energy on a "unicorn" model you are much better off to VISIT some of the local dealers near you and walk through their used lots. Search your local Craigslist (just be very careful of those "too good to be true prices" those ARE scammers) and see what is being offered, if it close to you go check it out. What suits folks on the Internet may not translate to YOU liking it or working out for you, you have to physically walk through to get a sense if it is something you will like. Sometimes those "ideal" layouts just do not translate well from 2D paper and picture to actual 3D in person. One thing to be extremely careful about is how the slide can affect the trailer layout when IN. Often slides will interfere with getting around things or getting to things like bedroom, bathroom or cabinets. Why be concerned? Sometimes you may find yourself in a place that putting the slide out may not be possible.. Like a storage yard or your backyard with limited space..
Gdetrailer 11/23/19 12:35pm Travel Trailers
RE: leaking grease seal.

When repacking the wheel bearings ALWAYS use: DOUBLE LIP SEALS WITH A GARTER SPRING and most of your grease leakage will be elimated! Most folk do not realize that you MUST TURN the drum while adding grease since they never bothered to read the manuals. Bet most folks simply plug the grease gun in with the wheels firmly planted to terra firma and never turn the drums.. Have read a lot of posts where someone would state that they "gave it a couple of squirts" each time before camping, bet they never raised a tire.. Turning the drums allows the grease to move through easier which reduces the pressure on the seals. But as pointed out, why bother with the zerks, if you follow the AXLE manufacturers recommendation of inspecting the brakes and bearings yearly, it makes zero sense to pump grease in! That is just being lazy and taking the "EZ" way out and then whining and complaining when you end up with damaged grease laden brake shoes! Chances of ever having grease laden brakes are pretty darn low if you pull the drums and hand repack the bearings, over almost 40 years messing with drum brakes (combined with autos and trailer axles) and have never had grease blow out the seals and on my brakes. Messy, yeah, but that is what gloves are for.
Gdetrailer 11/22/19 09:42pm Travel Trailers
RE: Dexter Axle Electric Brakes

Your brakes were not adjusted properly, you would have known it the instant the brake away popped if they were!!! Which brings me back to my original question...these brakes are self-adjusting...what does that process look like? Is it automatic, or do I need to do something in the way I drive to make it happen? They simply don't work!!! Do it the old fashion way. jbrack asked a valid question. It deserves a better explanation than "to do it the old fashion way". Jbrack, self adjusting drum brakes are nothing new, been around for many yrs on automobiles which used drum brakes. So you can check out how the automobile self adjusting drum brakes to understand trailer axle self adjusting drum brakes. Understanding that how the brakes are actuated is different (hydraulic for auto and electromagnet for trailer axle). You can go HERE for a simple overview of an automobile self adjusting brake works. Now to get to Cummins comment, you have to realize that anyone that may have driven a vehicle which had drums on all four corners will have a lot less "excitement" when it comes to the highly touted "self adjusting" trailer axle brakes.. Self adjusting drum brakes on autos do not have a stellar track record for being 100% reliable and often would fail to adjust properly in unison on at least one drum.. Was a lot of fun when that happened to be on one of the front drums on your steering and you stepped on the brakes and resulted in catapulting you off the road or across the road into apposing traffic at the most inopportune time... Adjusters over time tend to get stuck from lack of movement, this often was caused by the star wheel screw threads rusting, dirt from grease on the threads. Sometimes even the star wheel would end up having a few of the points worn off if stuck.. Often the wire which pulls the pawl across the star wheel rust off, break or jamb rendering the adjuster useless. Drums which are too far out of round (too much "runout") can also prevent the adjusters from working properly. For trailer axle brakes you do not have to do anything special, they are designed to adjust in forward and reverse. With auto drum brakes you simply had to backup for a short distance then apply the brake hard. For the little amount of miles towing a RV vs what you would drive an automobile I can't find any real reason to intentionally buy auto adjusting trailer brakes.. Autos often see 12,000-20,000 miles per yr but your trailer most likely will be far less than that and a lot less wear on the brakes. I rarely have to adjust my trailer brakes and finally replaced the original brakes on my 30+ yr old TT due to a cracked shoe.. I am always puzzled how folks burn through the trailer brakes in only a couple of yrs.. I see the self adjusting trailer brake feature as an expensive gimmick sold to folks who are afraid of drum brakes, do not understand the brakes are just too lazy to do some basic and simple maintenance.
Gdetrailer 11/22/19 03:55pm Tech Issues
RE: leaking grease seal.

I have no experience with axles that have the zerk. I can see how it would be easy to push grease past a seal, or even push a seal out. After all, a hand grease gun pushing grease is used to tighten the tracks on a loader. But I have worked on lots of things. Many seals fail because of bad installation. That kind of thing happens shortly after put in service. If it has worked for a while, from a rock crusher to trailer to little bearings on antique motors, if a seal where a shaft spins, or something spins on a shaft, there is a bad bearing. Now did the bad bearing let things wobble ruin the bearing? Or did the escaped lube let the bearing get too dry? No matter, they fail together. Now when you add the zerk, and grease pumped in the bearings could still be good. You alluded to using a grease gun to "tighten tracks" as an application of a grease gun. Most folks do not really understand just how much pressure can be developed by a hand pumped grease gun nor the amount of grease per pump which can vary, a lot. Per HERE is some examples.. "A basic step that is often overlooked is training the lubrication technician on the proper use of the grease gun. A high-pressure grease gun delivers pressure up to 15,000 psi. Most bearing seals will rarely handle more than 500 psi. A grease gun in the hands of an untrained technician can compromise the bearing’s seal and lead to early failure. The compromised seal invites dirt or other foreign materials as well as overlubrication due to little or no back pressure." Now, I have seen mentions of hand pump grease guns at a min of 1,700 PSI and typically 2,000 PSI which means that even the lowest pressure guns WILL breach a standard single lip seal with very little pumping.. The EZ lube system is supposed to use a double lip seal because of this issue.. I highly doubt that a double lip seal is going to be able to withstand 2,000 psi or more for very long.. Not to mention folks failing to read the manuals which tell you to TURN the drum while pumping and mechanics which just assume plugging a grease gun without TURNING the drums is fine.. The end result is a blown seal letting the grease expand out into the brake shoes.. I personally have no use for this gimmick (and one of my trailers does have it), PA DMV rules requires a State inspection on trailers with brakes.. That inspection means at least TWO drums (one on each side)MUST be pulled every year and the brakes inspected. Obviously if you are just pumping a couple of squirts a year into the bearings you are never going to actually LOOK at the brake shoes or drum conditions, are you? Then add in that grease guns vary in how much grease they pump, some can pump a lot and some not much. So when the axle manufacturer states one or two pumps is good.. You might never fill the empty cavity as shipped new for years which results in dry bearings.. Or with high volume pumps waste more grease than you would if you physically repacked them and risking damaged seals/leaking grease.. I personally like to pull the drums myself if not yearly at least once every two years.. This gives me the chance to check the brakes myself, clean and check the bearings for wear problems and repack the bearings with new grease. It isn't that I don't trust mechanics, I would rather find and correct a problem BEFORE dragging the trailer to the inspection station. This avoids having a rejected inspection and dragging it home then fixing then dragging it back for the inspection, saves me time and saves the inspection mechanic time. Grease and a new seal are cheap, replacing a damaged drum, brake backing plate, bearings or axle while on the road is not cheap and not to mention will totally ruin your trip.
Gdetrailer 11/21/19 03:39pm Travel Trailers
RE: Hulu price increases TWICE this year!

The biggest cost for TV providers is content. This is catching up with the streaming services. They are all currently operating at a loss to gain subscribers. Once they start trying to make a profit you will see their prices come in line with cable and satellite services. I work in the cable industry, and see the prices charged by the different channels. The margins are very small. The streamers can be a little cheaper since they don't actually get the service to your house, they rely on your internet provider to do that. Probably 80-90% of your internet traffic is streaming video. So add $30-40 of Internet cost to that $61 for Hulu, and it gets you close the the price of cable/satellite. So when you streamers/cable/sat prices go up, it's not just because they want more money, it's because Discovery/ABC/ESPN/HGTV etc want more money. They want more money because NFL, actors, producers, etc want more money. http://www.sherv.net/cm/emoticons/smile/smiley-says-yes-emoticon.gif Cord cutter and Internet streaming folks NEED to reread and listen to wowens79 posted.. From what I can tell, most "cord cutters" seem to totally ignore the mere fact of the cost of the Internet service that YOU directly pay for when adding up their savings. You NEED to add that cost in to make a good comparison of services and IF you will really see any savings.. Something else to consider, Internet providers will also increase rates to cover new faster technology so don't expect your Internet cost to stay low as streaming traffic causes more congestion.. Additionally, while you MIGHT save a little right now by subscribing to ONE streaming service, what happens down the road when some of the programing you want is on a DIFFERENT streaming service?? Not all programing on Sat service is available on ALL/every streaming service so the end result is you WILL end up paying for more than one streaming service IF you want to get all of what the Sat service offers. That can get extremely expensive in a hurry if you subscribe to more than ONE streaming service. Additionally traditionally when a "service" goes away, ALL of the remaining services automatically increase their pricing.. Competition results in lowered pricing, less competition and the result is increased pricing..
Gdetrailer 11/20/19 03:20pm Technology Corner
RE: So Valvoline has this meeting...

Bearings dont "make black stuff". And the color of the grease is really not an indicator of its condition. Bearings, no, they won't turn the grease black or any other color. HOWEVER, DIRT/DUST/BRAKE DUST/WATER can and does change the color of the grease.. Poor or worn out dust seals can allow all of the above to creep in to the bearings and grease. Improperly set bearings can also cause overheating of the grease and can turn any grease black in a hurry. Always best to check and repack your bearings periodically, fresh clean grease is always good and well worth the effort. I googled that and you are %100 correct. So it must be true I do know that the OPs post was a joke, not so much for yours.. But thanks for the potential sarcasm.
Gdetrailer 11/16/19 09:18pm Tech Issues
RE: So Valvoline has this meeting...

Bearings dont "make black stuff". And the color of the grease is really not an indicator of its condition. Bearings, no, they won't turn the grease black or any other color. HOWEVER, DIRT/DUST/BRAKE DUST/WATER can and does change the color of the grease.. Poor or worn out dust seals can allow all of the above to creep in to the bearings and grease. Improperly set bearings can also cause overheating of the grease and can turn any grease black in a hurry. Always best to check and repack your bearings periodically, fresh clean grease is always good and well worth the effort.
Gdetrailer 11/16/19 02:22pm Tech Issues
RE: Serpentine Belt

Well I did the old "2 foot length of heaterhose trick" (put one end near your ear and the other near the suspected noise culprit" acts like a stethoscope ya know) and it sounded like the idler was chirping. Now that you mentioned it I think I'll change out the belt and see what happens. I don't have an extra one and I should carry one especially when most of our trips end up in the middle of nowhere (by choice). Not a "reliable" way of finding this type of noise. There are a lot of internal moving parts just under those idlers, V8 and V10 Triton motors share similar design with the overhead cam system. You have cam chain tensioners and guides right under the idlers and any noise made there can easily be transferred to the outside.. Remove the belt and give the idler a spin by hand, should be smooth and make no noise. Smooth and no noise and most likely the pulley bearings are good (bearings are sealed and moisture shouldn't be able to damage them). While the belt is off spin the alternator, PS pump and A/C pulleys and verify they run smooth. As someone else noted, alignment off the pulleys can also affect the belt which could cause chirping, however, if it hasn't done this from day one I can't see how the idlers may have come out of alignment. In your case I suspect that the belt just might be the culprit from the shear amount time that MHs tend to sit around and not being driven. Fair chance that there is nothing wrong with idlers OR belt and the chirping is from lack of use and pretty much just an annoyance. If that is the case, changing the belt is the easiest and lowest cost to find out.
Gdetrailer 11/16/19 02:15pm Tech Issues
RE: Space Heater

The campground sets the price. If it includes power, then I am not "stealing". That idea is ludicrous. Campground does "set the price" but that price is set by reviewing ALL of their expenses (labor, maintenance and all other costs of business) from the PREVIOUS YEAR. If cost has gone up, they WILL be forced to raise the campground rates to cover the costs and to draw some sort of income that they can live on. The "elephant in the room" is that you and many others are ignoring the fact that what you use now WILL affect the campground prices NEXT YEAR. SO, if "everyone" that is "entitled" to 30A or 50A AND uses every bit of it, it WILL cost the campground more in operation expense. YOU are not being "wise consumers" or being "green" energy wise by deciding to be sloppy electric energy hogs.. One of the biggest gripes on this forum is the PRICE INCREASES or how much more expensive it has gotten at their favorite campgrounds every year, electric costs play a huge part in the price of admission to your favorite campgrounds. Piano, your post really outlines the real truth of today's SELFISH VIEWS that the average human has now days.. The "what is in it for me" mentality of today pretty much ruins things for everyone tomorrow. I put this current day selfish view in the same category as all of the EV owners that seem to believe that they are being "green" and are entitled to "free" electricity everywhere (campgrounds too) and still drive on the same public roads without paying their fair share of the ROAD TAXES! Electricity is not free, it has a real cost and the more we consume the higher it will cost. That IS how electric companies in the USA are structured to bill.. Your used to Canada's power, Canada may have a lot of "free" energy from "Hydro dams" but it too still has real costs to maintain and it is not free to generate and distribute that power, Canada gov absorbs that cost and ALL will eventually end up paying more for ALL of your goods.. Today's motto should be abuse it now and leave nothing behind for my kids, grand kids to have in the future..
Gdetrailer 11/16/19 10:40am Travel Trailers
RE: Serpentine Belt

Many years ago when my first Ford that had a serpentine belt was starting to get cracks in it, I asked the mechanic that I had gotten to know and trust, said that Ford had told them not to worry about those belts until they started loosing rubber. Dusty X2! Had a 2003 F250 that went up to 223,000 miles with the ORIGINAL serp belt. The ONLY reason it was replaced was one of the idle pulley bearings went bad and was screeching continually.. 43K miles is nothing for those idlers, are you REALLY sure it is the idler and not just the BELT causing the chirp? Belts sometimes will chirp just for no good reason.
Gdetrailer 11/16/19 10:12am Tech Issues
RE: So Valvoline has this meeting...

Yeah, so how do you ell when it's time for new grease? That's easy.. When the bearings seize! http://www.sherv.net/cm/emo/laughing/laughing-hard-smiley-emoticon.gif :S :B
Gdetrailer 11/15/19 09:13pm Tech Issues
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