RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Search

RV Blog

  |  

RV Sales

  |  

Campgrounds

  |  

RV Parks

  |  

RV Club

  |  

RV Buyers Guide

  |  

Roadside Assistance

  |  

Extended Service Plan

  |  

RV Travel Assistance

  |  

RV Credit Card

  |  

RV Loans

Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Posting Help and Support  |  Contact  



Open Roads Forum  >  Search the Forums

 > Your search for posts made by 'Gdetrailer' found 1165 matches.

Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 59  
Next
  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Honda / Westinghouse companion

Youtube knows everything. https://memegenerator.net/img/instances/73368638.jpg height=400 width=300
Gdetrailer 08/03/21 04:55pm Tech Issues
RE: Olympics......

Track and Field is alive and well, some of it they just don't air any more and most of the first weeks events are nothing more than the same old rehash "bracket" style shootouts to advance or not advance to the next bracket which is as boring as watching paint dry and the second week is quarter finals, semi finals and finals.. So the first week they air all of the swimming and gymnastics semi and finals and then switch to track and field events for the second week.. Were on the second week and my interest is darn near gone. Personally I am sick of the beach volley ball events which started with like twenty brackets and seems like we had 20 pairs of ladies from the US in since I don't recall seeing the same US pairs twice.. Worst of all is the broadcasts now are more commercial focused sprinkled with a slight hint of Olympic events.. For instance, they showed 1 event swim that lasted 2 minutes, then cut to 6-8 30 second commercials for totaled of 3 minutes of commercial time for that actual 2 minutes for actual Olympic program time.. On 1500 mtr swim events they were cutting away to commercials every 2 minutes and or box in box cutting out audio from Olympics to make sure you heard the commercials.. Thats 12 commercial breaks per hr of program.. Has to be breaking some "gold" records for advertising. We used to have standards set by FCC that restricted commercial time to no more than 18 minutes per 1 hr of program.. That obviously has been thrown out. My response? Mute and ignore the commercials, I will not watch the TV programs and movies they push, will not ask my doctor for the meds they push and I don't buy from any other advertisers on their commercials and I am not buying NBCs streaming service either..
Gdetrailer 08/03/21 01:39pm Around the Campfire
RE: Elect. start generator.

Get the Champion with the remote start feature. Run a dedicated quality extension cord near the electrical outlet that you currently use to plug in your O2 machine. When an outage hits, you just have to hit the remote start button, then unplug the O2 from the wall, and plug into your extension cord. You're good until the power returns. (Or, move to a state that has a better power grid). Your looking at a $1,100 plus shipping and taxes portable gen.. https://i.imgur.com/J47e68rl.jpg Not sure if this is for home use, but it seems to sound like it is. OP will have to drag it out from storage, make sure there is gas and oil in it then start it and then run extension cords all through the home for these random power outages. For home use and with the health issues the OP seems to have, they are going to be far better off to spend the money on a small whole house gen with auto changeover ATS. This will provide nearly zero downtime on any priority circuits in the home and it will do this all without every needing to get out of bed in the middle of the night. Small whole home systems can be typically had for $4K or a bit less fully installed and depending on what you have for available fuel sources you have Natural gas or Propane options to work with in that price range so you don't have worries about stale Ethanol gasoline fouling the carb or if you have gas on hand or if you can get gas. Best of all, no running of extension cords, no need to switch devices to a extension cord and less hazards of tripping on cords or folks operating gens inside garage or home or to close to home. Alternately but much much more expensive is a home solar powered backup power system that acts as a UPS (Uninterruptible Power Source). The Cons there are they are insanely expensive when adding up costs of batteries, solar panels, charge controller and decent Inverter with automatic transfer switch. Grid tie typically is not an option unless you spend more money for a grid tie inverter that has "islanding" capabilities and you would still need batteries for in the middle of the night interruptions. Grid tie inverters are typically designed to shut down in the event of a PoCo interruption and also typically do not have storage batteries.
Gdetrailer 08/03/21 12:31pm Tech Issues
RE: Problems hitching and un hitching

I have a Anderson Weight Distribution Hitch. I'm not sure you are suppose to grease the ball on this type of hitch. I bet that if you don't tell the ball or coupler, it will never know what type WD you are using. But no matter what kind of weight distribution used, there is more down pressure on the ball than just tongue weight. I would think lube on the ball would be more important. I thought the same thing.. However after looking at the Anderson WD manual, it is noted by Anderson that there is no need to grease the ball on the first page and later in the manual that they do not recommend to grease the ball as the grease may alter the effectiveness of the hitch.. See manual HERE Anderson integrated the ball with the WD attachments on the underside of the ball. The antisway part of Anderson is accomplished via the shank of the ball that goes all the way through to those bottom attachment plates. https://i.imgur.com/plw5bPgl.jpg The ball and shank of the ball (shank of the ball looks like it is tapered) looks like it is held in some sort of heavy hard rubber material which will resist twisting motion.. Any oil or grease that manages to creep down the ball has the potential of finding its way between the ball and the friction material.. While an ingenious idea, the reality is it is going to present a higher than normal wear on the trailer tongue ball socket and the Anderson ball.. I personally would still use some grease on the Anderson ball since it is still subject to side to side twisting movements and as long as it is not slathered and dripping off to reduce coupler wear. Especially important since most couplers are welded on to the tongue making replacement a costly repair if you had to pay to have a certified welder cut off and then weld a new coupler on.. Anderson seems to make it sound like you can just remove and slap a new coupler on :E
Gdetrailer 08/03/21 06:34am Travel Trailers
RE: Need help, hot water tank fail.

While igniting, there is an override that allows propane to flow even without a flame. Once ignited, there is a thermocouple that must heat up or the water heater assumes the flame went out and shuts off the propane. (eventually, it tries to ignite again repeating the process) 1) Is the thermocouple in the flame? If it got bent to the side, it may not be heating up. 2) Is the thermocouple gone bad? 3) Is the circuit board failed, so even though the thermocouple says there is flame, it still shuts off the propane once the ignition cycle is complete. DSI or Pilot free water heaters do not have or use a Thermocouple. Only units with standing pilots that you have to manually light use a Thermocouple for flame detection. HERE is a link to Suburban DSI water heaters. Here is electrical diagram of DSI water heater.. https://i.imgur.com/I11qwGbl.jpg DSI water heaters use a different flame detection, typically via a detection rod or in this case the same rod used for the ignition spark and is dual purpose. Flame detection via a flame sensing rod is also called flame rectification rod. Has to do with ionization that happens in the flame it's self. See more HERE From link above.. "Flame sensing rods, also known as flame rectifier rods or flame rectification rods, are commonplace in modern hot surface and ISI (intermittent spark ignition) gas-fired appliances. Flame sensing rods stick out into the flame and connect back to the furnace board. Once the board sends a call to the gas valve to open, it monitors the current flow on the flame sensing rod. It generates a potential (voltage) at the flame sensing terminal; this terminal is connected to the sensor with a conductor. When no flame is present, there will be potential at the rod and no current. When a flame is present, a small microamp (µA) direct current (DC) will be present as a path is made between the rod and the ions in the flame. This small DC current signals the board that flame exists and all is well with the world. If it does not sense this microamp (µA) DC current within a few seconds, it will shut off the gas valve and try again. The board outputs this potential (voltage) on the flame sensing terminal right at the beginning of the sequence to confirm that the path is “open” with no flame. This step ensures against false positives (sensing flame/current when there should be none), and once it goes from 0 current to the rated microamp (µA) current, the board “knows” that flame is present. These flame sensing rods are “dumb” devices. They do not generate potential (volts) or current (amps); their predecessor, the thermocouple (seen in standing pilot systems), does generate a potential itself, which is often the source of the confusion. A flame sensing rod is a piece of metal with a ceramic insulator that keeps it from grounding out. That is all. However, because it is conducting in the millionths of an amp (microamp), a lot can go wrong with it that a normal electrical component wouldn't have any issue with. Tolerances are tight, so small factors make a big difference. Flame sensors fail when: They short out due to a cracked insulator. They fail open because they are broken. They don't conduct because they are not properly placed in the flame. They become coated in silica (glass) or carbon. Before I go any further, I want to address a common question. Do flame sensors have a special coating that can be rubbed off with improper cleaning? Well, if we are talking about a thermocouple or a thermopile, then yes, absolutely, but we aren't discussing standing pilot systems here. I have seen many flame-sensing rods, and I have done a good deal of research; I have found no evidence that typical flame-sensing rods have a special coating on them that can be rubbed off. Now, if you have real, quantifiable proof from a manufacturer that says otherwise, PLEASE provide it to me so I can retract this statement. I think it's more likely that issues techs see from cleaning are due to cleaning with sand cloth (Emory cloth) and leaving behind grit that can lead to a coating and poor conductance once heated. I chalk the other part up to confusing a thermocouple with a flame rod and bit to superstition." Most failures with RV DSI will be between clogged/plugged orifice (meters out the propane from the valve), control board failure or gas valve failure.. Since it sounds like the OP hasn't used the DSI water heater much, I would try removing and cleaning the orifice and the burner tube.. Spiders tend to love to build nests in and around burners and the orifice.
Gdetrailer 08/03/21 06:06am Travel Trailers
RE: Problems hitching and un hitching

Yes, that is always part of the routine. Just seems like it shouldn't be that hard. The real problems start if I try to hook or unhook at a bit of an angle. I have had this trailer for 15 years and don't remember having these hassles early on. Thanks for your input. I guess it needs to be completely chocked up and I have to move little by little until the ball is right in the middle. And yes, that would be way easier if someone was helping, but not that big a deal to get in and out of the truck. I was beginning to think there was something wrong. Thanks. You are not "completely" chocking? As in no chocks or one chock? There is your problem. Chocks need to be in place on both side of the trailer wheels before attempting to unhitch even for completely level ground. Chock completely first then drop the tongue jack to the ground. Then start lifting the tongue with tongue jack enough to remove WD (if equipped). Drop the tongue down after WD has been removed then unlatch tongue ball lock latch. Then lift the tongue with tongue jack, you should see vehicle spring up to unloaded height and ball should now nearly fall right out of the tongue. If ball does not come out, then try backing up slightly with vehicle as the ball can hang with the groove inside the tongue. For kicks, take your hitch head with ball, while it is not on your vehicle and insert the ball into the tongue. With the latch open the ball should slide right in easily and you should be able to remove the ball easily. If you cannot insert or remove the ball by hand, you may have the wrong ball size and you need to identify exactly what ball size is correct in this case. The problem I suspect you have is typical when both the vehicle and trailer are "tight" together and there is not enough slack for the ball to center in the tongue part of the hitch. The only way to fix that is to make sure your trailer cannot move forwards, backwards or sideways! That means you must chock both sides of the trailer properly before attempting to unhitch.
Gdetrailer 08/02/21 12:02pm Travel Trailers
RE: The big anti virus lie

The reason I don't click on random links like this one! Best way to get a Virus. As a retired IT Professional, you're right on target with this advice!! The worst malware or ransomware attacks with which I had to deal were because someone clicked on a link that took their system to an infected or hacker site. Actually, surprisingly enough, the absolute easiest way to get a virus requires nothing more than hovering your mouse over a popup inline ad.. This type of ad is the ones you will see random keywords with a double blue underline.. Inline ads use JavaScripts (not the same as Java) which are small programs that your browser runs in the background. JavaScripts run with elevated commands which make them extremely risky. These ads are third party ads with no real security.. Got burnt twice on this very RV.net forum on a heavily antivirus defended PC behind a heavy firewall. Hovered the mouse by accident over a double blue underlined keyword in the text and bam, PC was infected. Complained to mods about it yrs ago, don't know if RV.net banished those since the second time I made all ads on RV.net go away by using FireFox loaded with AdBlockPlus add on. Now when a website blocks me from viewing it I can now use the newest AdBlockPlus to banish the antiblocking element on the website..
Gdetrailer 08/01/21 08:54pm Technology Corner
RE: Parasitic current draw on tow vehicle

Sounds like either the VOM is bad or the operator (you) is... Yup that can happen.. I have multiple VOMS and sometimes get confused as to how they work. (No two alike type thing) Suggestion is a Jump Starter. they make two types (I of course have one of each) one is a Lead Acid (AGM) battery in a big HEAVY box. about 25 Amp horus usually with battery leads Some of these have air compressors, work lights and other features.. NOTE when hooking up it is suggested the NEGATIVE (Black) wire NOT go to the battery but rather the block or other unpainted metal part (This is for US cars with Negative ground.. If by some strange chance your car is positive ground that's the RED wire). The other is a LI tupe... way lighter. 10 AH but about the same Kick Start power. I use, or rather used, the big one as a "Portable car" for powering 12 volt stuff that plugs into the accessory outlet. :R So, the "fix" is to ignore and bypass the problem with a portable jump pack? :E Something draining a car battery in a day or two is not something one really should ignore. It is not normal and depending on what is draining the battery could very well end up with the OP stranded somewhere at the least and at the worst 100% charcoaled vehicle and or home. Some things stay hot (not switched off with ignition), silly things like Ford had with the pressure switch located on the Master Cylinder which if the seal failed allowed brake fluid to enter the switch and cause a fire type of catastrophes have happened.. Brake switches do go bad, modern versions have multiple switches which do fail in odd ways..
Gdetrailer 08/01/21 04:33pm Tech Issues
RE: Parasitic current draw on tow vehicle

Is the allowable amp draw about 0.3 amps? thanks No. .3A is 300 Milliamps, that will drain any car battery in a matter of a couple of days. Should be more like .01A (10 Milliamps) or less (.001A (1 Milliamp) and your vehicle should be able to sit for a month or two without being started or charged. Most vehicles have a "power management" system which is supposed to go into a sleep mode after a period of inactivity which may need investigated. Check to make sure you have no USB chargers or anything plugged into the 12V power ports since those may or may not be managed by the power management system. Make sure all lights like interior lights (including under hood and trunk if equipped) are turning off (sometimes interior lights get accidentally turned on via dash light control) or your door switches may not be working correctly.
Gdetrailer 08/01/21 02:00pm Tech Issues
RE: Parasitic current draw on tow vehicle

Any recommendations for a quality VOM? I'm tired of cheap junky ones. It isn't your cheap junky meter. It is how you are using it. 10A setting you must use the input marked 10A. On 10A setting you will have a very low current resolution of .1A at a time which will not reveal very low current draws. Your DVM should have a MA (Milliamp) setting (may look like 1000 (1000 is 1A), 100, 10) which has a higher resolution. That setting will use your normal DVM "Volt/resistance" input lead. Choose the highest range on the MA setting then switch down.. Have to very careful when using the MA setting as it is to smoke the meter..
Gdetrailer 08/01/21 01:30pm Tech Issues
RE: Wheel Stop vs Wheel Chocks

I don’t like the light yellow chocks. In a very strong wind they can loosen and blow away…mine did at Tuttle Creek. Heavy black rubber chocks from HF like fj. Never had the cheap yellow chocks blow away in the wind when done correctly. Per.. I have for many years used the plastic yellow and black rubber wheel chocks with them in front and back of the tires. I then tried to pull my trailer forward or backup with them in place and TT moved only about an inch if that. I never thought to try this on gravel. So for me they worked well Eazy peazy, place chocks behind wheel, backup slightly, then push opposite chock against front of wheel, then let your vehicle "drift" slightly forward and the wheels will center between the chocks with no slack in front nor behind.. Any type of wheel chock (metal, plastic, wood ect.) designed like a wedge can benefit from doing it this way. When leaving, you will of course need to pull forward slightly to release the rear chocks and backup slightly to release the front chocks. On edit, adding a illustration that may be helpful to understand how I set my chocks.. https://i.imgur.com/GnB7sfCl.png Once set, they won't move since the tires are on the chocks, for added chock movement prevention, I drop a short piece of 2x4 in between the chocks which locks them together. Obviously a single axle you will have to place both chocks on the same wheel but the principle is the same otherwise.
Gdetrailer 08/01/21 10:55am General RVing Issues
RE: Wheel Stop vs Wheel Chocks

I use two of these. Not for a single axle trailer though. https://www.campingworld.com/dw/image/v2/BCJK_PRD/on/demandware.static/-/Sites-global-master-catalog/default/dwba1b76ba/images/large/057758_1.jpg?sw=600&sh=600&sm=fit width=320 I use a pair of cheap $9 yellow plastic Camco wheel chocks you can buy at Walmart and drop a short piece of wood in between which does the exact same thing as the more expensive version you picture. Always have placed my wheel chocks on the inside of the tires on dual axle trailers and a leftover block of wood dropped in between the two chocks keeps them from moving.
Gdetrailer 07/31/21 09:02pm General RVing Issues
RE: What's a decent battery charger?

2004 Ford courtesy light in cab stays on all night, need a boost every morning. It is supposed to go out if the light switch is turned to half way but this one never goes out unless I disconnect the battery. Common problem, often caused by the door switch which is located inside the door latch that starts to stick on. Sometimes freed by squirting some WD-40 into the latch on the door. Sometimes the entire latch must be replaced. Ironically however the vehicles body control module should be timing out the light after 15 minutes.. May have issue with the body control module, on some Fords this module is integrated into the top of the fuse box located underside of the drivers side dash.. The problem of the Body control is often traced back to your windshield leaking on the driverside, the windshield just happens to be directly over top of the body control module! If body control malfunctions, don't be surprised to have other things like radio, windshield wipers and fan motor to act up..
Gdetrailer 07/31/21 09:24am Tech Issues
RE: Camco Tri-Leveler or Camco Curved Leveler?

Neither. Those are solutions looking for a problem and I can't see any way you can use wheel chocks to hold the wheels in place (pretty dangerous) with those devices. Not to mention you really want both axles to be lifted at the same time. Get yourself a treated 2x8 by 8ft or 2x10 by 8ft. Cut it in half, you now have 2 4ft "levelers". A 2x? is 1.5" thick, giving you in one single board a 1.5" lift. Stack a second board on top of first and you now have 3" lift. Any more lift needed and you might wish to reconsider your site.. For lift under 1.5" you can buy treated "5/4" board for decking which is about 1" thick. The second board can be cut a bit shorter than the first to allow easy on/off. If boards want to shift around you could drill a couple of holes through the boards and then use wooden dowel rods to act as pegs. When you have your trailer positioned where you want it, pull forward the length of the wood you have, place your board behind the rear axle and then backup onto the board. If you add a miter to the edges you can make it easy to drive onto the board. I use wood boards all the time, treated lumber will last as long if not longer than plastic lifters and I also am able to use plain wedge style wheel chocks on the boards. To help even further, there are levels which show in inches how far out of level you are.. https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/41rJ3+QVsZL._AC_.jpg height=300 width=300 Heck if your really wanted to go crazy on accuracy you can also find Apps for your phone that can help determine the exact lift you need..
Gdetrailer 07/30/21 01:30pm General RVing Issues
RE: 8 people killed in Utah sand storm

I have driven that area many times ,for one its 80 mph speed limit, and they do every bit of it, I would guess some in the 90 mph range . I have been passed going 80 out thru there . I am usually towing the fifth wheel, so going 65. I never pass a car ,nor a Semi. Occasionally another Rv ,but not many. At those speeds they can stack up pretty fast . According to HERE they list only TWO states which is "illegal" to drive with flashers on. "However, different states have different rules when it comes to flipping on your flashers while you're driving. It's illegal in places like Florida or Louisiana." 2 out of 50? That isn't "many" and it is a dumb law too boot. Why? Once again from that link above.. " “Generally, hazard lights are for the driver’s safety,” Woodard said. Traditionally, we’re taught to turn on our flashing hazard lights when we pull off to the side of the road. Woodard said there are a lot of other situations in which your car can be considered a hazard. “If you feel like conditions are unsafe, whether your vehicle is having mechanical issues, whether you have a flat and you’re just trying to get to the next exit, if there’s inclement weather,” he said." In other states failing to turn on the 4 ways could result in you getting additional fines if you pull that stunt and are involved in creating an accident.. 4 ways are required by federal law to be built into modern vehicles, in my state, they must function to pass state inspection, they are a safety item which may save not only your life but other motorists.. Many states I have traveled through often post signs on long steep hills if you are under the speed limit to turn on flashers..
Gdetrailer 07/27/21 08:42pm General RVing Issues
RE: RV Hot Skin (Exterior electrification)

As you please. I would rip it all out. After 100 years if you can't renovate this stuff it might be time to sell the house and get something updated. I stand with your brother on this. Sorry you "stand with my Brother", he isn't in reality and standing with him, you have no clue. There is "book smart" and there is "street smart", I would rather stand on the "Street Smart" side of life.. Fortunately my house didn't have knob and tube when I bought it, but it did have some interesting wooden wire "race way trays" in the attic crawl space which tells me it may have had some at one time in it's life. But obviously you have never dealt with old homes or apartments in Cities.. You don't just "tear out" stuff, it becomes a very long drawn out process of permits, inspections and in the case of "landmarks" or "historical" buildings the added restrictions of making everything go back and look like it is done accurately for the time period.. Fortunately for myself, home is outside a city which made life much easier.. As far as my homes electrical system goes, it IS fully updated, including 200A service entrance (replaced old 60A fuse box) with new breaker panel, new grounding system, all new wiring, new outlets.. Fully inspected and passed by my PoCos approved inspector (on edit, I should note: Fully up to date to code at the time of the inspectors approval). My home had no insulation and lots of warped 3/8" drywall, made decision easy to gut and replace. I have also done rework on multiple homes with old systems along with wiring some new homes from scratch so I am no stranger to electrical work.
Gdetrailer 07/27/21 01:00pm General RVing Issues
RE: 8 people killed in Utah sand storm

The best choice is to pull off as far as possible, lights off, foot off the brake, flashers off as you don't want someone to follow your lights. Wait it out. It all depends on the situation. Pulling off the side with no lights or flashers can be extremely deadly. Here is a real life situation I ran into one early clear morning before dawn (no sun light). Just got on to an Interstate and accelerated to 60 MPH, drove two miles in the clear with perfect visibility. Out of the blue I was blanketed in what I thought was a dense fog cloud so thick that I couldn't see past my hood and the fog covered all lanes of the road. Fortunately no one was in front of me or behind me and I stomped on the brakes down to a crawl (under 5 MPH).. Drove 1/4 mile that way with zero visibility until I saw blinking 4 ways on a semi tractor (as the "fog" thinned out some) that was on the side of the road (where you mentioned to go). The fog cloud was coming from the semi! Near as I could figure, the semi blew a radiator hose or some part of the cooling system creating a very dense cloud of antifreeze vapor. If I would have pulled off and turned all lights off (including 4 ways)I would have possibly drove right into the semi in the process or the next vehicles that would have been driving my direction may have plowed into me and the semi.. The idea of 4 ways is to provide some sort of hint to drivers that may be around you that you are there and you are moving slower than posted speed limit, or have become disabled (on the road or on the berm)and had to make an emergency stop.
Gdetrailer 07/27/21 12:21pm General RVing Issues
RE: RV Hot Skin (Exterior electrification)

Some grandfathered items are still worth updating. The electricity does not care about an exemption... it will still bite just as hard. Some are, some are not, but in reality one could spend a lot of money on electricians, materials, carpenters, drywall folks following every rabbit hole of changes that do not add safety. Have had this conversation multiple times with a Brother that is an Architect.. In his world everything must be demoed and replaced with new in order get up to every new standard. He can't understand why Clients tend to balk at his ideas.. All well and good if you are made of money. Heck even "Knob and Tube" wiring is still in use and grandfathered in old, old buildings. Talk about a very dangerous and scary wiring system where switches and fuses are often on the neutral side and you have runs of potentially bare wires floating about and turning a switch off or removing a fuse leaves you with a still Hot connection.. But it still works and can be still somewhat safe as long as you don't mess with it, add on to it or cover the wires with building insulation. https://i.imgur.com/gyQDHRMl.jpg
Gdetrailer 07/27/21 10:43am General RVing Issues
RE: RV Hot Skin (Exterior electrification)

In the years I've been on various forums electricity is hands down the least understood topic. In 2004+ the top item was 50A RV power. It just shows how little is understood about house power which is the same except that a house us usually 100A, 200A, etc. ie Its 120/240V 50A 3 pole 4 wire 60 Hz SINGLE PHASE and 12,000 watts. And a 50A open ground is yet another mystery. Not being critical as there is much about a lot of things that I don't know. Actually, 120/240 US home entrances are referred to as SPLIT PHASE, sometimes as a TWO PHASE STEP DOWN. See HERE "240V or split phase: For small residential buildings, the usual method is to rig up a 240V stepdown transformer (instead of 120V) in which the secondary winding is split into two 120V windings (hence the name "split phase"). The center tap is then grounded and fed to the house as if it was the neutral wire of the old 120V system, and each end is wired as a separate 120V live wire. Their waveforms have a half-cycle offset, or 180 degrees, when measured against the neutral wire. The normal 120V designed machinery does not care which live wire you use for them as long as you connect them between a live and neutral wire. Appliances in the home can be distributed on either live wire to maintain balanced loading, and when heating requires high power, the concerned appliance can be connected to both live wires to operate the heating element, providing 240V for it. " The key here is while the PoCos transformer for residential service is only connected to one of three "phases" and the step down transformer that feeds your home service entrance actually looks like two 120V windings which for 240V are wired in series. Because each 120V winding must be wired in series to provide 240V the center tap point is used as the Neutral creating two 120V outputs that have a 180 degree reversal in waveform when referenced via the Neutral.. Note the two bottom drawings at the link I provided.. The bad thing of 120V/240V setup like 50A RV is if you lose the neutral, 120/240 works by balancing the loads and with no Neutral your 120V loads now become part of simulating the center tap which changes the voltage potential each 120V appliance sees.. HERE is a good video explaining electrical systems "101" which may be helpful. HERE is a video concerning main panel and Neutral/ground bond. HERE is a video concerning sub panel separate neutral/ground wires. On edit.. In the last video which is about sub panels it was mentioned that the NEC code was updated in 2008 to require separate isolated ground and Neutral in sub panels.. So, it IS very possible that RVs as new as 2007/2008 may have ground and Neutral connected in the panels.. But once again, OLD work is Grandfathered, you do not have to change or modify existing OLD work to match newer codes unless you change panels or make major modifications to the electrical system.. However, the last video on sub panels should very clearly give you a good reason to make the upgrade change.. I give that guy some Kudos for the video.
Gdetrailer 07/27/21 06:23am General RVing Issues
RE: RV Hot Skin (Exterior electrification)

I would not jump out and do anything until the shore power cord is identified whether it is two or three wire! If it is two wire you are asking for problems! However, I did have a 1981 TT . That panel most definitely had all neutrals and grounds connected via a single ground/neutral buss bar.. So, in reality it is possible to find RVs with 30A shore cord but yet neutral and ground connected together. That would explain folks saying they got shocked off the "skin" of the trailer when plugged into a receptacle that was wired with reverse polarity. With today's wiring standard of separately insulted neutral and ground, "reverse polarity" would not cause the skin to become electrified. Correct! That trailer would trip my house outside outlets GFCI shortly after a heavy rain storm until I separated the neutral and ground in the RV panel.. Trailer tongue sitting on a soaking wet board surrounded by wet ground = nuisance GFCI trips..
Gdetrailer 07/26/21 08:32pm General RVing Issues
Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 59  
Next


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:




© 2021 CWI, Inc. © 2021 Good Sam Enterprises, LLC. All Rights Reserved.