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 > Your search for posts made by 'Gdetrailer' found 738 matches.

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RE: pillow recommendation

Have used latex foam pillows for yrs until they got difficult/hard/impossible to find in local stores. Tend to last 10 yrs or so then start degrading.. Have had to try memory foam pillows since latex ones don't seem to be sold in stores.. What seems to work for us is the memory foam pillows which have a cool gel insert on one side.. This way if you get too hot or too cold you can just flip it over.. One thing I have noticed with memory foam pillows is the shape, some are totally flat and some are more rounded like a traditional pillow. Flat version works OK if you are a side sleeper, not so much for back sleeper at times. With any pillow, you will need to find one that works with your sleeping habits, for us, it has been a few trial and error attempts. Not sure I would be happy with any "shredded foam" pillows, the idea reminds me of a "bean bag" chair where the stuff that is supposed to cushion you ends up on the sides and you uncomfortably slump down into it over time.. Like to have some support which a solid foam pillow will give you.
Gdetrailer 01/19/21 12:50pm General RVing Issues
RE: Wall mount electric heater

Gdetrailer, thanks for the info. I did go ahead and buy the replacement T8 bulbs from Lowes. About $20 for a pack of 2 and the light in our kitchen is soooo much improved. And now, back to the original point of this thread... which was something. Your welcome! An easy peazy fix and not all that expensive. And yeah, I did hijack the thread subject which was 12Ga wire and 15A breaker spec'd by the manufacturer off the wall heater the OP mentioned.. Fire away folks as why it is wrong or incorrect for anyone to use a lighter breaker than the gauge of wire will permit..
Gdetrailer 01/19/21 12:35pm General RVing Issues
RE: Can't Print from MS Word, Excel etc.

Windows update KB4598242 was released 1/12/2021.. Full details HERE Part that pertains to the OPs issue of printing.. "Addresses a security bypass vulnerability that exists in the way the Printer Remote Procedure Call (RPC) binding handles authentication for the remote Winspool interface. For more information, see KB4599464." OP may need to remove this update, reboot and see if it resolves the printing problem.. The catch is with this update, you may only have 10-30 days to remove it, after that you are stuck with the update.. Per link above.. "If you have already encountered this issue on your device, you can mitigate it within the uninstall window by going back to your previous version of Windows using the instructions here. The uninstall window might be 10 or 30 days depending on the configuration of your environment and the version you’re updating to. You will then need to update to the later version of Windows 10 after the issue is resolved in your environment. Note Within the uninstall window, you can increase the number of days you have to go back to your previous version of Windows 10 by using the DISM command /Set-OSUninstallWindow. You must make this change before the default uninstall window has lapsed. For more information, see DISM operating system uninstall command-line options. We are working on a resolution and will provide updated bundles and refreshed media in the coming weeks." Op needs to check to see if this update installed..
Gdetrailer 01/18/21 02:07pm Technology Corner
RE: Can't Print from MS Word, Excel etc.

Subscription works in a three step process.. OP never mentioned using a subscription version of Office. As I said, my corporate version displays a subtle banner regarding license expiration. I get it every year because for some reason the VPN I use can’t reach the license server. Dave While OP did not mention it, QCman did point out it could be a expired subscription and YOU quoted QC (which you snipped out just my quote).. For that I am requiting what you quoted to refresh your memory.. Is your MS Office subscription expired?This is what I was thinking too, but I would have hoped the Geek Squad would have picked up on this. When my work MS Office license expires I just get a skinny banner at the top of whichever application I am using, so maybe they missed it. Dave Since "subscription" was mentioned as a possibility it seemed that it would be good to point out that subscription expiring most likely is NOT the issue at hand. And, you have also made my point that if you are subscribed to office you DO get notifications as to the status.. One would have to really ignore the warnings for it to fail considering you get 120 days of use with warnings of your access going away.. I am voting that the issue may have been a recently released "security update" to the HP printer drivers per HPs own website.. Wouldn't shock me that they may have borked the drivers..
Gdetrailer 01/18/21 01:30pm Technology Corner
RE: Can't Print from MS Word, Excel etc.

Is your MS Office subscription expired?This is what I was thinking too, but I would have hoped the Geek Squad would have picked up on this. When my work MS Office license expires I just get a skinny banner at the top of whichever application I am using, so maybe they missed it. Dave Subscription works in a three step process.. READ HERE Step 1 is "expired" which lasts 30 days, EVERYTHING "Office" will work and is not disabled during this time.. Step 2 is "disabled" and that happens after the 30 days in step one and lasts 90 days after the step 1 has expired.. This step can REDUCE or limit "functionality" of some items but generally affects ability to EDIT AND SAVE files.. No mention of removing PRINTING capability that I can find.. Not to mention you had to go through the initial 30 days of "step 1" to get to this point which I suspect you would have gotten tons of "nags" about the subscription ending.. Step 3 DELETED.. All of your office data files on the cloud and access are blown away.. Also see HERE for more details.. All of which brings me to another point.. I dislike "subscription based" software and make it a point to BUY the software.. My Office 2000 still works fine and with the "compatibility pak" added to it, I am able to open, edit and save newer "docx" files.. Back to the subject, I suspect it is a combination of security and new HP drivers update that has cause the OPs issue.. HP over the last few yrs has been pretty terrible in the driver department.. I am dealing with a new HP all in one that is supposedly compatible with Win7, 8, 8.1 and 10.. Yeah, so far the ONE PC I need to work with is Win7 (has an application that cannot be moved to a new PC due to IT'S activation server being pulled) and the drivers and software installs and it says it is working but when you try to print it just says it is not able to print.. W10 PCs do seem to work but it did not go through the usual driver installation and found it via a web browser application.. I have been seeing a lot of disgruntled HP users posting more and more about their issues..
Gdetrailer 01/18/21 12:05pm Technology Corner
RE: East Coast Road Trip????? Pandemic?

So you want me to read something that I have to log in ? I don't think so! If you want me to read something, copy it and post it here. We just had several people from NY pull in here today and they overnighted along the way Guy No need to be hostile. I didn't have to log in to read it and I don't have an account with the NYT. Article is too long to reprint. Suffice it to say if someone is planning out of state travel to make sure they can abide by the rules if there are any. Not a big deal. I didn't mean to be hostile I clicked on what you posted and in order to read it I was required to log on, and they wanted my e-mail address Do you give your e-mail address to any one that asks for it ? Guy I was able to access the NYT link without needing to put in a email address or login.. Some places like NYT like to randomly hit you with a paywall upfront and sometimes they allow you to look at things.. I would copy and paste it to this thread but as said, it IS a long, long article that would take considerable amount of time and effort. It IS possible if someone wanted to they could copy and paste the text (minus the pictures and other click bait stuff) into say a word doc, save as a PDF then upload to a sharable google drive location and then post a shareable link..
Gdetrailer 01/18/21 09:33am General RVing Issues
RE: Calling on Solar Techies

Takes a lot of solar, battery AND MONEY to make the system you long for, way above your budget. Why does everyone keep saying this ! Victron SmartSolar MPPT 100/50 Charge Controller - $325 Amazon Victron SmartShunt Battery Monitor - $130 Amazon Samlex EVO-1212F-HW Pure Sine Inverter/Charger - $745 Amazon That is $1200 ! If you shop hard, you should be able to find 200W polycrystalline solar panels for under $200 each. ($150 a piece would be a very good deal at 75¢/watt, but do-able) Add mounting hardware and some wiring and yes, you will probably be up around $1700 (If I was building this for myself, I would want 600W of solar and a 2000W inverter and I would use a 24V battery bank but that would be over $2000.) $1200 and you haven't even got to buy solar panels. You are also forgetting that shipping solar panels IS expensive.. They don't ship em for free.. One of the recent "cheap used panel" threads used 250W panels were priced at $50 each.. The downside was it cost well over $100 a panel to ship.. Making the "cheap used panels" not so much a "bargain". OP WANTED to keep the "cost" at $1500, now you are encouraging them to sink even more money into a system that is going to cost $2500 and more. Heck the "puresine" inverter that you pointed out alone ate up HALF the OPs budget.. Haven't even got to the batteries yet.. At the min to support long term 1500W loads without the inverter shutting down do to voltage sag, OP WILL need at a min of 4 FLA 6V GC2s.. This is due to some crazy law called "Peukerts law", in a nut shell the more energy you draw the faster the internal resistance goes up. Internal resistance goes up and the voltage sags.. Voltage sags below 11V and most inverters will alarm or shut down. Also affects just how much and how quick energy can be absorbed by the battery when recharging. To get around this issue, some folks use multiple batteries to spread out the draw, some have gone to more expensive AGM which has a lower internal resistance but those are more expensive and give you less capacity for the same size as the flooded cousins.. To get around AGMs limitations folks are moving to even more expensive Lithium technology batteries, light weight, have an incredible power density for the footprint, but, they are insanely expensive per Ahr.. Require BMS system to monitor discharge and recharge. Doesn't like excessive heat OR COLD so you basically must treat them like a person and keep them around "room temp" for greatest life and capacity.. To run a 1500W microwave for say ten minutes, that is 1.5kw if run for 1 hr.. For the 10 minutes of use you are looking at 250Whrs.. BUT, keep in mind, there are losses (inefficiencies), if you pull out and only put 250Whrs back into ANY battery, it WILL NEVER get fully recharged and it will go dead.. Gonna need 300Whrs or more to fully recharge the battery provided you have enough sun. Keep in mind at this point we have only been considering a microwave and nothing else.. Solar panels are not very efficient and a very little window exists that you will ever get close to max output and that is generally around noon time when the sun is at it's highest angle.. That is only perhaps a half hr to 1 hr window.. Even if you sat there all day to baby sit the panel and move it with the sun, it will be less than the noon sun.. OP will need at a min of 500W-600W of panels to pull off using a microwave and coffee pot.. The two highest power draws.. And I suspect that is not enough.. Just because the sun may shine, it doesn't mean that a solar panel is putting out the max rating all day.. It is far cheaper to simply run a gen for the high wattage draws than to build a high power solar panel system with all the supporting costs, for small stuff like TV/entertainment is is pretty low cost to run that from solar.. 200W worth of panels and maybe at the most a pair of GC2s will give the OP a long weekend.. Small systems can be had for small money, you can buy 100W panels now days for $70 and a 30A PWM controller for $20. So for 200W of solar you will only spend $160 PLUS OVERSIZED SHIPPING ($200 perhaps for shipping).. OP already has PSW inveter for TV so zero dollars there.. OP already has a gen so zero Dollars there.. OP has no need for 2,000W inverter so zero dollars there.. What I would suggest is if OP really wanted to run all solar in the future they simply buy a couple of panels now to meet their needs for low power loads, as they get some spending money down the road, they can simply ADD several more panels, perhaps upgrade the solar controller, add some extra batteries and once they have enough solar and batteries then buy a big inverter for their microwave and coffee maker.. That is a great thing with solar, you can add on when ever you get the money, you do not HAVE to lay out a lot of cash up front, start small and add to it.. But keep in mind that overall the OP WILL be spending far more than $2500 either way.. There is no "free meal"..
Gdetrailer 01/18/21 08:01am Tech Issues
RE: Calling on Solar Techies

I do plan on using my honda 2000 watt inverter generator when needed as backup. My audit keeps changing lol! As my needs and wants are overshadowed by the cost of the system. Must haves are. 3 minute electric coffee maker once a day Small microwave 2 minutes 3 times a day satellite dish 4 hrs a day 40" tv 4 hrs per 24" tv 4 hrs per day Led lighting For the past several years I have been using small symplex inverters to power tv and satellite and using the generator for brewing coffee and microwave. I would have to run the generator 4hrs a day to maintain batteries. If I can't do a solar system under $1500 to power my basic needs I may have to go with a hybrid plan of solar plus generator. Added: At least 400 watts of solar on the roof. A all in one 1000 watt inverter that will power 110 outlets in the Trailer and charge the batteries. I will switch to generator power for making coffee and using the microwave? Sat receivers should have power 24/7 so they can get their "updates", the downside to them is even when all the lights are off and you have pushed the off button on the remote, they STILL are using the SAME amount of power as the ON :E Yes, a sat receiver uses around 50W whether you have it turned on or off.. Not keeping it powered all the time means your receiver will not have the guide or software updated and when you power it up, it can take some time for it to find it's mind.. To keep cost within your budget, you WILL have to do a hybrid setup of running the gen for heavy high wattage loads, $1500 is not going to buy enough solar or battery capacity nor an inverter to handle those high wattage loads. Solar only works if you can afford enough panels to cover all your drains plus have enough battery capacity to handle the times there is very little to no sun for several days. Basically you have typical "Champagne tastes on a beer budget" that many RVrs tend to have when they are looking to fully get rid of needing the gen. Takes a lot of solar, battery AND MONEY to make the system you long for, way above your budget.. I would suggest getting a couple of 100W solar panels to help cover some of your use and plan to use the gen for the heavy lifting work on microwave and coffee maker plus help assist the solar..
Gdetrailer 01/17/21 09:05pm Tech Issues
RE: Norton Security

A "Microsoft Account" is not mandatory on Windows 10. It is the default so only those that allow Microsoft to dictate your Windows configuration get a "Microsoft Account" instead of a local PC account. With that being said, I am a Google app user and therefore Google knows all about me. I don't care as I have nothing to hide but also in today's tech world information about you is harvested in many different ways anyway. My credit card company is very good at warning of a possible scam. I have never had any problem operating in this world since the Internet came on the scene. To download any app from Microsoft store, you must log in. Yep, to download any app, including Skype--gotta have an account. I've been hit real bad with Identity Theft twice. Both times it took hundreds of hours and attorneys to fix it. I thwart all high tech tracking and try to be inconspicuous. LOL, and yes, I don't have a Facebook account neither. Most identity thefts happen from your own lack of care, sometimes physically like allowing the waiter to disappear with your credit or debit card, hacked gas stations with card skimmers and online stuff typically from spammers and spoofers sending you unsolicited junk emails that require or demand you to enter personal information and without it they will close or lock your accounts.. It is called "social engineering" and is the weakest link in your chain of defense.. Yep, it is YOU, YOU ARE THE WEAKEST LINK not the software on your PC.. A/V software that blocks you from doing something stupid is not needed if you just used your own brains as most social engineering attempts play on your mind, they use tactics that break down your defenses, want you to make spit second decisions that lead to you giving out detailed privileged information that can be used to steal your identity. Many A/V blocking hits are actually FALSE POSITIVES and as such you LOSE.. You LOSE access to a lot of Internet access and content because you chose to let software prevent you from accessing items that are not and issue but has been "black listed" by accident.. I have that issue with my new ISP, they use a device called PLUME, plume will not allow me access to some sites that I HAVE used for many years claiming those sites are "suspicious".. Even though I have setup "exceptions" Plume still blocks those websites. One of these days, that plume device will be replaced by a real router. I refuse to live my life hiding behind brick walls and safety glass wondering just what the real world looks like without being "nannied" to death.. I am dealing with a place right now that is using ESET, had to upgrade to a newer version and now the problem has started with ESET continually nannying everything, blocking software from checking for updates, blocking every program from starting, blocking programs from accessing PC resources, ESET took over the firewall, forcing the user to acknowledge over and over to yes to everything it thinks is bad.. If it was my PCs, ESET would be gone in a heart beat.. But, I have to deal with folks that do not understand PCs and they are scared to death that Defender is not good enough. If you are this scared of things this bad, you are best to take your entire life off of the wobbly web, don't answer your phone, don't answer texts, don't answer emails.. I like my PCs to work without the need for a nanny looking over my shoulder questioning me like a Kindergartner. For us grownups we tend to know good from evil and often can make good choices..
Gdetrailer 01/17/21 03:13pm Technology Corner
RE: solar

I just want to operate a residential fridge thru my inverter. How many 12v batteries and will a 100w panel work?Plenty of reports that have 4 batteries and 500 watts solar still needs a generator at times. You will get more power from your solar with lithium. Solar is good for maybe 5-6 hours a day, fridge runs 24/7. Actually the fridge will generally on run the compressor 20minutes to 30 minutes per hr so in reality fridge runs 12 hrs or a bit less per 24hr.. Inverter can be an issue but if you have an inverter which has a power save feature you can reduce the amount of energy used by the inverter when it only powers up when there is a AC load demand large enough to turn it on. For the record, I am only using one pair of 6v GC2 batteries to power my home fridge conversion for 24 hrs between charging..
Gdetrailer 01/17/21 02:43pm Tech Issues
RE: Can't Print from MS Word, Excel etc.

Lately I have been having a real hate issue with HP printers, troubleshooting and getting them to work is a real pain in the rear.. So much so, the NEXT printer I buy most likely will not be a HP. Dis you try uninstalling and reinstalling everything including drivers for your printer? Did you try searching for newer drivers? Did you try the HP website? HERE is a direct link to YOUR printer on HPs web site.. On that link I found the following.. "Important Print Security Update HP was recently made aware of a vulnerability in certain InkJet and LaserJet printers by a third-party researcher. HP has updates available for download to address the vulnerability. Details and more information are available in the Security Bulletin." Security bulletin can be found HERE It could be as simple as adjusting a security setting or removing drivers and reinstalling them.. Could be a botched MS update.. Don't really know. Didn't really see any complaints about printers with the last MS Win10 update.. I do recall there was a update a few OS generations back that knocked offline folks ability to print but you should have been well past that problem update.. It is the reason I manually manage my PCs updates by disabling the automatic forced updates.. I wait a while to see what folks are complaining about and if no complaints I then manually install the update.. if there is complaints, I wait until a fix is issued or even skip the problematic update until the next one..
Gdetrailer 01/17/21 02:03pm Technology Corner
RE: Calling on Solar Techies

Slapped back to reality not only buy the thoughtful comments here but found the price of a 3000 watt pure sine inverter with smart charger and built in transfer switch ridiculous. I will forget the idea of electric heat but would like to be able to power Tv's, Satellite, USB charger, Furnace if needed and a coffee maker once a day plus a small microwave for 10 minutes a day. I will research a 1500 to 2000 watt pure sine inverter with smart charger and built in transfer switch. Is a all in one inverter the way to go or would going with separate units be more practical for purpose of replacement and cost? Inverter with built in smart charging is a bit useless if you are planning all solar charging.. The smart charging built in to inverters is from 120V AC shore power, not compatible with DC from solar panels.. Solar panels would need their own "smart" charging controller, making paying the extra premium price for a "all in one" inverter/converter a bit of waste of your money. Built in transfer switch is not really needed if you are planning to be 100% off grid and zero gen use.. So, you could just buy an inverter that meets you max wattage needs without the transfer switch or charger and just plug your shore cord into the inverter.. Saves a ton of money for batteries and solar.. Personally, put some money upfront in a good brand inverter and that may not be the cheap no name "pure sine wave" inverters.. My favorite inverter is made by Tripplite, I am using a PV1250FC for my home fridge conversion.. It IS a MSW but it is a big heavy duty industrial inverter designed to handle high start up surges from inductive loads. 1250W continuous, can handle surge up to 2500W for up to 10 minutes.. Not going to find any other inverter that has such a long surge capacity, most are microseconds.. Looks like this.. https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71yODCUiS8L._AC_SL1200_.jpg height=300 width=300 Weighs a whopping 22 lbs! Currently $288 for that beast.. HERE If you feel you must have 2,000W then a PV2000FC would be what you are looking for.. If you MUST have 2000W AND Charging AND transfer switch, then Tripplite APS2012 is what you are looking for, it is 2,000W with ATS and charger built in and is a hardwired unit.. https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71M1J39TZJL._AC_SX425_.jpg height=300 width=300 Currently it is going for $730 HERE Yes, it is also MSW, Microwave oven will work on MSW, might be a bit reduced on power (take a bit more time), some items like electric blankets/heating pads with all electronic controls may not work with MSW but pretty much everything else will work. USB chargers, do yourself a huge favor, just buy a cig lighter plug in USB charger. That is silly and a huge waste of battery power to run a USB charger from an inverter.. Put a couple of cig power ports in your RV and use a couple of the 12V to USB chargers, they work very well and will use a lot less battery in the process. For say a laptop PC, do the same, you can buy generic 12V to laptop power supplies, they use a changeable plug that sets the output voltage and amperage to your laptop.. For coffee maker, lots of non electric ways of making coffee, or I would recommend firing up the genny for that if you must have electric brewed coffee.. Electric coffee makers are the same issue as trying to use battery for heating.. They use a huge amount of wattage and to be able to use only battery power will require more battery and more solar.. Personally, if you skipped the microwave and coffee maker from battery usage you could get along with a small inverter for TV and sat equipment.. 300W-400W inverter should handle most LCD TVs up to 60" plus the sat receiver.. Smaller inverters have a much lower no load draw and loading them to half capacity will net you more battery efficiency than the way you are planning.. Conservation is king, oversizing the inverter for the loads will result in more battery usage.. Some folks actually use two inverters, one small one for TV/sat and one larger one for heavy loads like microwave.. Turn off the inverter when not needed and turn on when needed.
Gdetrailer 01/17/21 01:30pm Tech Issues
RE: East Coast Road Trip????? Pandemic?

The SE is not locked down and imprision'ed. Walmart is a big corp and given free reign to be open with 1,000's roaming the isles and touching everything, while smaller business with much less traffic and better sanitation are often closed. I have not heard of any walmart not allowing overnight parking due to a virus. SE resturants are open, but they just sit at every other table. People wear mask a lot but otherwise life goes on normally. Be advised that some national forest "primitive camping" or "roadside camping" is not allowed and somehow this is to help prevent someone catching a virus. You can shop walmart, touch things in a store, but can't go out in the middle of nowhere and isolate yourself from the general population and camp for days. dim logic does not make sense but that is who we are now Walmart may be "big" and "open", they are not immune or "exempt" to EACH of the local states and local city requirements during this time. Each State/city has their own rules that Walmart and any other business that must abide by in order to stay open. Walmart gets singled out because they are a large presence, they have vital things like groceries and pharmacy which means they are vital and should stay open.. Keeping in mind, most Walmarts now days are no longer open to the public 24/7 like they used to be.. My local WM CLOSES to the public at 8 PM and opens back up at 8AM to the public.. During the closed hrs they are deep cleaning and restocking shelves.. If one is planning to overnight at a WM, as always it is a good idea to call ahead and ask the manager if it OK to do so.. Some cities may have rules that do not allow "overnighting" which will override WMs overnighting policies. Overnighting at WM is also subject to the LOCAL STORE MANAGER, a few bad apples can ruin it for everyone. As far as restaurants being open, that is subject to DAILY change, PA shut down ALL restaurants from offering indoor Dining Mid Dec 2020 to Jan3 2021 due to possible major spreading from holiday celebrations.. Only restaurants that offered "takeout" or drive up "to go" services were allowed to be open. If you are going to travel, you simply need to stay aware of EACH states current requirements you are planning to stay at.. You just can't say the Northeast, Southeast does this or that.. Each state has their own rules which tend to be a bit different from other states.
Gdetrailer 01/17/21 11:48am General RVing Issues
RE: Group 27 deep cycle battery + 2000W inverter

If you are lucky .... an hour Likely less That inverter needs 400 amp hours of battery support two pair of GC-2 is recommended.. That's 400 amp hours with 200 usable your group 27 is 100 (bit less) with 20-25 usable. The fridge.. Well you did not say but look at the watts and divide by 10. yes 10 that's how many amp hours it will suck off the battery. So if it sucks 200 watts then it needs 20 amps of battery power Both Dometic. and Norcold at one time made RV-Fridges using a ultra-high effiency compressors. 35-40 watts.. at 12 volts that's a bit over 3 amps. Door closed (Seems strange to have to specify door closed but the interior light adds a major draw) A lot of "assumptions" being made.. 2Kw inverter doesn't "need" 400Ahr of "battery support" (what ever THAT means).. If you mean 400Ahr capacity, you would be dead wrong because the OP did not specify just how long are they needing to run the fridge from inverter.. As I mentioned in my other post above, inverter will draw an average of 1Ahr-2Ahr per hr the inverter is turned on. 24 hrs of that and that is 24Ar-48hrs of battery not including fridge or anything else.. That certainly is not anywhere near 400Ahrs of "support". Many apartment sized residential fridges will use about 90W at 120V and typical run time will be 20 minutes-30 minutes per hr.. So, lets say the fridge runs 30 minutes per hr at 90W level.. That is 7.5A at 12V (90W) x 12 (run time of 30 on and 30 off for 24 hrs) = 90Ahr Add in the inverter loss (total time on, plus time with fridge running) of 48Ahr. And we get 138Ahr of battery capacity required for the inverter and fridge for a 24 hr period.. Far less than your "assumed" 400Ahr of "support".. Even if you went went with a far bigger fridge the results most likely will never come close to the supposed 400Ahr "support" you claimed.. And for the record, I AM using just ONE PAIR of 6V GC2s with a home fridge conversion.. ONE PAIR of GC2 gives me plenty of capacity to run my fridge for 24hrs, plus run the 30K furnace plus a few hrs in the evening of using lights and STILL have plenty of battery capacity left over.. Since the OP did not say how long they NEED to run the fridge and how much current the fridge uses plus details on the inverter and how much no load power it uses absolutely no way to blanketly say that the OP needs so much capacity "support".. My suggestion is the OP should try their current battery in their driveway without shore power to see how long it runs.. Then they can make a better decision on how long they wish it to run and how much battery they will need for THEIR use. Much better than giving some hokey number you pulled out of a hat because YOU don't like Home fridges in a RV.. Not everything must say RV on it to be used in a RV..
Gdetrailer 01/17/21 11:20am Tech Issues
RE: Group 27 deep cycle battery + 2000W inverter

No one will be able to give you a true answer, not enough information and too many variables. Group27 battery is pretty light on capacity, that is an obvious fact. Group 27 can supply enough energy to power your furnace overnight in cool temperatures, but it will be pretty deeply discharged by morning. Your inverter unless it has a "power save feature" is going to eat up 1 Ahr-2Ahr of battery capacity per hr just doing nothing. That is 24Ahr-48Ahr per 24 hr period. Home fridges vary widely with how much energy they will use, some pretty light like 90W (.75A at 120V) to upwards of 780W (6.5A at 120V) and may run perhaps 20-30 minutes per hr.. So, no one is going to be able to answer your question. My suggestion is try a dry run in your driveway or backyard (where ever you park it) and see just how long you can run the fridge.. My bet is you will need more capacity than a group27 if you want it to run more than 12hrs..
Gdetrailer 01/16/21 08:58pm Tech Issues
RE: Firman Generator

I have two still in the box sitting in the garage. Leaving on our full time adventure May 1. Costco provides lifetime returns on everything they sell, except for electronics (TV's, laptops, etc). Per Costco, generators do not count as electronics. Gotta love Costco! All well and good until you get to campsite and find out that your Costco gen fails to work.. Then what do you do? Pack up and leave? Stay and not have power? Drive a long ways out of your way to only find the closest store does not carry or have your gen? Just plain mind blowing that anyone would buy something and let it sit in a box for months or years before taking it out of the box and go to use it. Lifetime warranty is also only works if there IS a "replacement" on hand at the store, forever.. Stores like Costco and Sam's clubs change brands often and also discontinue carrying certain brands or even categories of products.. Store will have most difficult time fullfilling a lifetime warranty if they cannot get said item or stock said item..
Gdetrailer 01/16/21 05:54pm Tech Issues
RE: Norton Security

And for those touting "i" stuff, yeah, they to can get virus's, keyloggers, malware and are not "exempt" and you shouldn't throw rocks at non "i" products because some day, one of those rocks may bounce back and smash your "i" products glass house.. It's not a question of "touting", we all know stuff can happen. I can say, however, that after over 25 years on Windows stuff, I switched to Mac. Virtually all the issues I had with Win -- slow startups, hangups on shutdown, browser incompatibility, progressively slower machinery, and nefarious junk being attached to my computer -- all went away, once I got past the MS mindsets and learned the Apple mindsets. Will it last? -- who knows? I have had well over 30 yrs of PC/Windows/DOS/NT and many older OSs "experience" than I care to list. In all of that time, I have only twice been hit by a virus/malware. Have spent many yrs of my life being online or having some sort of online connection as part of my job. I think getting hit twice in 30 yrs using non "i" products is pretty reasonable and should be expected.. Just because you bought into the "i" thing doesn't mean you will make it through your entire life without getting hit by a virus/malware.. Lots of online "i" forums with same issue with virus/malware issues.. You can bury your head in the sand, run and hide but eventually luck will run out on you as long as you have your "i" product attached to the wobbly web. For many of us doing real work with real companies, we can't duck and run or hide our head in the sand because well over 95% of the worlds softwares runs exclusively on a PC platform using some form of Windows.. Pretty much everything you use or buy has been touched by a process that was exclusively run on a MS software platform.. Do you bank? Use a ATM? Have you been to a DR? Hospital? How about your electric Co? Water bill? Grocery store? Gas station? Own a car? All of the above and more will be using a MS windows platform somewhere in their business.. Those are just a few examples of what IS "running the world".. On edit.. It is also worthwhile to mention the "i" company DOESN'T make/sell "server hardware", nor do they make "server software".. Without servers, your "i" products would be 99.9% useless and there would not be any such thing as "the Internet".. You should be thanking the Non "i" products for at least the fact that you can "connect" to the Internet..
Gdetrailer 01/16/21 02:31pm Technology Corner
RE: Norton Security

PC Matic here, 5 devies (2 laptops, 1 pad and 2 smartphones) for an affordable annual price. And no Google or Microsoft snooping :). I respect my privacy, just wish big tech reciprocated. :R Don't know who you are, but that one is a funny one for sure.. So, now you have to PAY a "third party" to "snoop" around on your PC.. Your "privacy" was compromised the very second you hooked your PC to the "Matrix" (Wobbly web, Internet, Skynet, Cloud, whatever you wish to call it). Every single piece of software now days IS "phoning home" to the mothership that it comes from and spying on you.. Third party A/V has "privileged" access to the contents of your entire drive.. Just because PCmatic comes from a company in the US doesn't mean that it DOESN'T rummage through your personal information (Read MS IS A US BASED CO AND THEY DO!) and send information of your surfing/buying habits. In fact they MUST send that information home in order to be able to react to virus's and such.. Not to mention the surfing/buying habits information is like gold to them.. They sell that info! Defender works fine, I am sure "PCmatic" may work fine, however, do realize that ALL A/V software has limitations and virus's, keyloggers, malware, ransom ware and so on can easily get around A/V software.. YOU are the the MAIN LIMITATION TO A/V Software and th first line of defense, not the A/V software.. Most all of the junk you don't want will typically depend on YOU clicking or opening something you shouldn't.. A/V software will never tell you this, if they did, they wouldn't have a business model for long.. I have cleaned a lot of PCs for people, typically they are loaded with virus's they got from all of those "free" coupon or "discount" offers that they clicked on or emails that they shouldn't have opened.. If there is a "free" or highly discounted offer out there, folks WILL click on it!
Gdetrailer 01/16/21 09:50am Technology Corner
RE: Wall mount electric heater

I went with a lot of T12 40W per tube 4ft fluorescent fixtures back then, over the last 5 yrs have been converting all of my fixtures to T8 18W LED retrofit bulbs.. less than half the wattage and not quite 3 times the brightness.. Thanks for that kick in the pants. I just went looking for replacement bulbs for the kitchen of my new house. Found that at the local Lowes and they're not very expensive. Say,,, I could use them on my home kitchen too. . Maybe someday I will change them. Thanks for the info. I didn't know anything like that was made. Retrofit LED tubes are a great way to keep existing fixtures which depending on the age and how it is mounted may not be able to find a suitable LED fixture to fit in that space without a lot of rework. Folks seem to gravitate towards buying all new LED fixtures, but sadly, those fixtures are a "one and done" sealed type items and are not designed to be relamped in the future.. Most folk buy into the 50K-100K hrs life of LEDs without realizing that not ALL LEDs will get anywhere near that life. Basically when the LEDs start failing you have to replace the entire fixture. LED Tubes tend to cost a bit more up front but allows you to just replace one tube if one fails down the road.. I am reposting here a section from another thread that I was involved with concerning retrofit LEDs lights.. These are pix from my garage with light readings.. "LED retrofit bulbs are an improvement in lighting.. I don't doubt that those non relampable "shoplights" will "work", but to myself, over the yrs I have learned that it is BETTER to buy fixtures which CAN be "relamped". Had multiple outdoor light fixtures fail over the yrs that were never intended on having the lamp replaced.. Or used "proprietary" hard to find special bulbs with separate ballast.. More than once the failure was the ballast and out into the garbage with the entire fixture. I make it a point to never buy any more non relamplable fixtures or fixtures which have special bulbs or ballast/driver that cannot be replaced. They build those fixtures as cheap as possible to entice folks to buy entire fixture at a low price point instead of buying a fixture with a replaceable lamp.. Down the road when the non relampable bulbs start failing you will be buying entire new fixtures (which won't "match") and paying a premuim price. Myself, when one LED bulb fails, I can simply replace ONE bulb at a lower cost than replacing entire fixture. LEDs DO, AND CAN FAIL and those non relampable LED shoplights WILL eventually fail. Anyway, I did want to add a few photos of my LUX meter from my garage lights.. Light meter is sitting on a 4ft tall ladder. First one is the brightness of a 4ft with T12 fluorescent bulbs shoplight.. https://i.imgur.com/lMHGP9hl.jpg 471 LUX is the reading directly under the fixture. Next pix is taken under one of the 4ft shop lights which I used Hyperikon conversion bulbs.. https://i.imgur.com/fXrCnell.jpg 1145 LUX directly under the fixture! Next is just basic "bare" Edison screw in LEDs in the garage.. https://i.imgur.com/af36eKUl.jpg 24 LUX (had hard time seeing this threw the camera eyepiece) Next is all LED shop lights turned on and meter is in the same spot as the Edison bulb photo. https://i.imgur.com/mEok1Ynl.jpg 568 LUX average light, not bad at all! Pix of garage with all shoplights on.. https://i.imgur.com/wqi2fGsl.jpg Looks garage look like "daylight" inside even late at night with all lights on.." By the way, I have just completed a couple more shop light conversions a few days ago for the garage.. I took some pix of the process I used which includes adding a outlet and pull chain switch to each shoplight..I will have to sort through the pix sometime and post the process.. In my case the process takes about one hr but if you don't add outlet and switch the process takes not much more than 15 minutes.
Gdetrailer 01/16/21 09:28am General RVing Issues
RE: Firman Generator

Depending on the Genrator (Traditional or inverter) In "Traditional" Generators there are devices that are designed to control the wave form and "Total harmonic Distortion" Sitting in the box these devices get... Weak. HOWEVER DO NOT WORRY First. Resistive stuff like lights. could care less about the waveform. And second. Well the one i bought where that happened by the 2nd tank of gasoline was 100%. The devices had "Woke Up" and were working. (Actually I'm blabering. i do know the proper technical terms but .. Well.. They do not matter). :h Forgot to take some meds? "Traditional" gens, have no such device to control waveform or harmonic distortion. Traditional gens may or may not have "AVR" (Automatic VOLTAGE Regulator), and it's sole job is to CONTROL the OUTPUT VOLTAGE. Has nothing to do with waveform or distortion control. Sitting in a box, does not mean it is getting "weak", period.. Lots of folks that have WW1 and WW2 vintage generators that still work and it isn't from "excising" them every month. All generators rely on some "residual" magnetism leftover from previous use, generally even just a very slight amount will restart the process.. For very old gens sometimes one would have to "jump start" the magnetism by flashing the fields with a small current from a battery across the fields.. Generally not so much of a problem with more modern gens and if you are not careful can easily damage newer gens so it is not a recommended go to fix. Tradition gens the waveform , frequency and voltage can vary from the engine speed.. Waveform distortion is typically 10% or less. Pretty much ALL electrical and electronic devices can operate on a traditional gen with no ill effects. Inverter gens the waveform, frequency, voltage are far less affected by engine speed. Waveform distortion varies wildly depending on quality of the inverter.. REALLY CHEAP inverter gens may actually use a MODIFIED SINE WAVE (MSW) inverter, more expensive gens typically use PURE SINE WAVE (PSW).. So cheap inverter gens may actually have more waveform distortion that a traditional gen.. Pretty much ALL electrical and electronic equipment will work on Inverter gens.. The main advantage of most inverter gens is they tend to be quieter.. And the last sentence I quoted, I can't make heads or tails about what the blathering is about.. Something about 2nd tank and 100% working perhaps??? But boy you must have been partying pretty hardy last night..
Gdetrailer 01/16/21 09:09am Tech Issues
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