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 > Your search for posts made by 'Gdetrailer' found 1057 matches.

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RE: Roof Replacement

Dunno... $2K for good skin and frame plus appliances doesn't sound too bad to me. A replacement door alone runs about $500... The problem is you might have a "good skin" but all of the wood that the "good skin" is supposed to be attached to falls apart due to rot. Understanding basic RV construction and the order they are put together can make a world of difference as to how you approach the repairs. Conventional tin builds the interior paneling is attached to the wall studs on a flat table in the factory with glue and thousands of staples. Walls are placed on the floor and roof is set on top of the walls, wiring is run then insulation and then the tin is applied last. All cabinets and interior walls are put in place before the exterior siding is put on.. Because it is built in this fashion, repairing from inside will result in damaging cabinets and interior walls when removing.. If I ever do another RV, the plan is to remove all good stuff like doors, windows and appliances then cut the bolts holding the shell in place, lift and discard the shell and start from scratch. As far as doors, yeah, the second TT both doors were completely shot, there was nothing left to salvage.. I ended up fabbing up completely new doors from scratch as there was no way I was putting $1000 in doors on a trailer worth scrap value of $700.. Even today, because of the age of the trailer per the title date, I would have difficult time getting much more than $1K.. Folks like buying old trailers to use for hunting camps and don't care if they are rotted out or rebuilt, they only want the cheapest shelter they can find. Selling the first one took time as no one really wanted to pay more than $800 for a 20+ yr old trailer even if it was fixed up nicely.. I don't fix and flip, wasn't planning to sell the first one but as family grew, the old one was less than ideal for us.
Gdetrailer 04/20/21 07:17am Travel Trailers
RE: How to remove tail light from 2020. Rock wood mini lite

This might be helpful.. Using the pix posted by another member I was able to locate a similar tail light to what they posted. Brand is Optronics 6" round.. https://i.imgur.com/inLHgYLl.jpg Found HERE RVSTL10 is passenger side (no license plate bracket) Found HERE Lense is removable, will need to remove the caulking and the lens will have to be pried off to get to the mounting screws.. Look on the underside flat area for any place to insert a flat blade screw driver between the red cover and the plastic base. https://i.imgur.com/5J2HzUfl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/9wKt6rAl.jpg And yes, I have run into LED tail lights that failed prematurely so it is possible that you could have a defective light but if you can get the red lens cover off you can check the wiring to make sure it is the light.
Gdetrailer 04/20/21 06:13am Travel Trailers
RE: How to remove tail light from 2020. Rock wood mini lite

Thanks for all. The responses, I have not repaired the. Light yet. Cleaned the plug on trailer and truck and still no worked. If the blinker works on the truck wouldn’t that eliminate the truck. I plan to use some emery paper as my next method to repair the light. Many newer vehicles use relays and separate fuses to isolate the trailer connection from the vehicles turn signals.. So, it is possible to have the vehicles turn signals work but yet the trailers not if a fuse blows or relay fails. Compounding things a bit more is recent vehicles have switched over to "smart modules" to handle the trailer lights, these modules are able to detect a load present and turn on or off the output.. These modules are a bit sensitive to shorted trailer wiring and can go into a protect mode and never come back.. The only nice thing about smart modules is they will notify you of a trailer light outage fault. If you have the lights posted by another member, it may be possible that the glue/caulking is holding them in place. If so cut or remove the caulking and see if they come off.. If all else fails, check with a RV dealer service department to see if they will clue you in on how to remove.
Gdetrailer 04/20/21 05:45am Travel Trailers
RE: Roof Replacement

The renovation looks great. Looks like you kept the original motif and character with the paneling. Not for nothing, but you bought a 20 year old trailer... what were you expecting? I'd expect anything older than 15 years old that wasn't either an Airstream or an Avion i.e. all-aluminum to be a potential gut and rebuild... First RV, dove in not expecting a grand hotel on wheels but also not expecting to find no wood left.. Once I smartened up and learned what signs of hidden rot look like my next purchase I paid considerably less for knowing that it was a total gut job up front. First one cost $2K, put additional $2K in materials in it, used it for 6 yrs, sold it for $2K.. Much less loss of money than buying a $20K new RV then selling it in 6 yrs getting only $15K out of it.. Not to mention, paid cash, no interest paid.. Second and current trailer paid $700 for a 25 yr old unit, put $3500 in materials, all in cash and now going on 12yrs, it owes me nothing.. Much better than paying $20K plus interest.. Not for the faint of heart, but I don't like giving any more money to the banker than I have too.. As of yet, I have never met a poor broke bank manager..
Gdetrailer 04/20/21 05:33am Travel Trailers
RE: Help with zirk fittings

Huntindog, you are "preaching to the choir", I am not a "fan" of it, and over the yrs have been a adamant opponent to them.. To me, it is a wasteful and useless "feature" and encourages folks to ignore the brakes that are hidden by the drum.. I would rather pull the drum and inspect/check/adjust the brakes on a regular basis. Axle manufacturers state that the brakes should be inspected/adjusted every 12K miles or once a yr which ever comes first, pretty much negating the usefulness of this system. However, there is an overwhelming insistence that having EZ lube is not only a necessity but a requirement on this forum. Along with the insistence is the "system" is not flawed nor possibly cause issues. I am taking a much more neutral approach to this "feature" now days and basically stating "use at your own risk" but at a min if you must use the feature, make an attempt to read and follow the instructions from the manufacturer before plugging that grease gun in to the axle.What I find interesting is that I have posted many times on this forum some longer write ups that go into great detail all of the failings of the EZLUBE system....Yet when I do a search for them, they do not come up. Only one post of mine, probably the first one from 2011 shows up.It was neutral on the subject, as I had not studied the system at that time. Search feature of this forum (as well with pretty much any forum) is pretty weak. Often times I get better results doing a overall Internet search.. You can narrow the Internet searches by adding in the forum name or address into the search string. Internet search engines work off a keywords and how many times the words or phrases have been used and the order of use.. Not sure how forum search engines search but I suspect it is a literal matching more of one to one matching so you have to be spot on exact way the words and phrases appeared in the post.
Gdetrailer 04/20/21 05:23am Travel Trailers
RE: Help with zirk fittings

Huntindog, you are "preaching to the choir", I am not a "fan" of it, and over the yrs have been a adamant opponent to them.. To me, it is a wasteful and useless "feature" and encourages folks to ignore the brakes that are hidden by the drum.. I would rather pull the drum and inspect/check/adjust the brakes on a regular basis. Axle manufacturers state that the brakes should be inspected/adjusted every 12K miles or once a yr which ever comes first, pretty much negating the usefulness of this system. However, there is an overwhelming insistence that having EZ lube is not only a necessity but a requirement on this forum. Along with the insistence is the "system" is not flawed nor possibly cause issues. I am taking a much more neutral approach to this "feature" now days and basically stating "use at your own risk" but at a min if you must use the feature, make an attempt to read and follow the instructions from the manufacturer before plugging that grease gun in to the axle.
Gdetrailer 04/19/21 08:41pm Travel Trailers
RE: Help with zirk fittings

Now take a look at their drawing and you will see that the inner bearing has no shoulder support next to the grease seal. Their drawing shows a best case situation that I have never seen. In fact, the drawings and tolerances confirm that there can be zero contact with the bearing ground surface, in my opinion this is a design defect. With the bearing pushing against only a sharp edge, the bearing adjustment is quickly lost. Those that only want to toss grease at their spindles have no clue. https://i.imgur.com/Dn6PEzDl.jpg That may be more of a "illustration" rather than taken from actual CAD drawings since I retrived that pix from Dexters service manual. CAD drawing I would have expected to have dimensions and tolerances notations.. However, I am not exactly a fan of drilling the center out and then cross drilling out material where you want or need full strength.. To me, I would rather have 100% solid "meat" to work with instead of "EZ Lube" capability.. To me, it is a potential weak spot that can be bent or worse snapped off. But, I get it, folks like "new fangled things" that are sold as time saving gadgets and not everyone like myself cares to get hands greasy.. I didn't buy my flatbed trailer because it had "EZ Lube" axles, it unfortunately was part of the deal so I must live and deal with them on one of my trailers. If you must have one and must use it, just read and follow the instructions, otherwise you could face having to needlessly replace brake backing plates.
Gdetrailer 04/19/21 07:45pm Travel Trailers
RE: Trailering

The inquiries are important to the person asking, otherwise they wouldn't ask? :S Sort of like asking why you have a 36ft TT and a "DMax" when a Hotel room and a Kia can do the same thing and not take up two city blocks or drink tons of fuel oil.. :h
Gdetrailer 04/19/21 07:32pm Travel Trailers
RE: Roof Replacement

Example of what I am talking about.. https://i.imgur.com/eNbyXMcl.jpg This damage was not caused by roof vents, it was caused by.. https://i.imgur.com/o7PlHmxl.jpg Which is the trim.. The caulking under that trim had gotten hard and cracked and the previous owner was too lazy to remove the trim and replace the caulking so they used everyones favorite fix in a tube.. Silicone.. The silicone didn't fix the issue and kept on leaking until I bought the trailer and when I stripped back the rotted paneling it was leaking like a sieve when it rained.. Looks like a 40yr old trailer...lots of newer ones rot out within 10-20yrs. Trailer was only 20 yrs old when I bought it in that condition. That was good looking compared to other well hidden rotten spots, had to destroy and remove all upper kitchen cabinets along with the upper bunk bed. Replaced nearly every roof truss, remove and sister up quite a few wall studs, removed all the poor attempts to repair the damage by previous owner. Replaced most of the front wall studs as they were pretty well rotted out. New ceiling panels, new paneling all around, new upper cabinets, new couch/bed.. Had to build all newer upper cabinets from scratch and the upper bunk didn't get put back in. I was so mad and upset That I paid nearly $2K for a half rotted out shell. Once I discovered how major the damage was I didn't bother taking many pictures of the mess was just too upset and needed to make things right. None of the damage was caused by roof vents, fridge vent or black and grey tank vents.. ALL the damage was cause by nearly 100 little tiny screws that held all the roof trim on. Some inside pix after all repairs were done.. https://i.imgur.com/5FM1Y0Sl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/ZQ3jW0hl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/TEKt9Fsl.jpg
Gdetrailer 04/19/21 03:31pm Travel Trailers
RE: Help with zirk fittings

Im not a mechanic, but are those closed systems? The zerk fitting isnt. One side is open. I can see in a closed system adding grease or anything for that matter make something give. In an open system the path of least resistance is followed. And i will agree , the people that probably have problems are those that do not do it correctly, or dont use it at all for a long period. The latter could make a blockage with hardened grease, making it a closed system. It is both "open" and "closed" system. Take a look at the diagram below. https://i.imgur.com/SGOdenzl.jpg The axle stub has a long hole bored through the center. That bore goes all the way to right before the inside of the grease seal where their is a cross bored hole. Grease must be pushed all the way through that bore and cross bore, into the outside of the inner bearing that is against the inner seal. Grease then must travel in to the hub cavity, filling the cavity completely before reaching the inside of the outer bearing. The grease must be pushed through the outside bearing and the outside of the outer bearing is "open" to atmosphere. The grease must travel that long skinny bore then make a hard 90 degree turn into the cross bore, push through not one but two bearings.. There is going to be resistance the entire route the grease must travel. Resistance = pressure build up. It is critical that one turns the drum or hub while using this system as that helps reduce the pressure buildup.
Gdetrailer 04/19/21 08:56am Travel Trailers
RE: Help with zirk fittings

Ok, so i have the ez lube axels or whatever they are called now. I will use them after i finish my break job. I really dont see how a normal hand pumped grease gun will push out the back seal. Hell, i have a hard enough time trying to pry out the rear seal with a hammer to repack them. The new seal is always tight goung in also. I can see if you re use an old seal, or dont put the seal in correctly that you might blow out the rear seal. But under normal operation. I cant see it happening. Now with that said, i would repack by hand every 5 years or so to check the bearings and races and such. But i plan on using the ez lubes for a few years for annual greasing after its set up. Do you understand that somebody that does not know what they are doing with a hand pump grease gun can tighten the tracks on a D-6 Cat dozer so tight it will not hardly pull up on a trailer? Which is the "conventional wisdom" that my Dad taught me back when I got my first car and he showed and explained step by step on how to repack the bearings.. Big rule was to not pack the hub center full of grease. Just pack grease around all of the bearing surfaces is sufficient.. Has worked well for me for several million miles of driving across multiple cars and trucks. But I get it, not everyone likes to get hands dirty and grabbing a grease gun is very convenient.. Thank you I know nothing of what you speak. Is the cat tracks the same set up as an ez lube axel? If it is i am surprised. While my post had nothing to do with "cat tracks", I can see where that is possible to do given the correct parts are put under enough pressure from a grease gun.. Many folks in the "hit and miss" engine collecting community often resort to using the grease gun method for pushing out badly stuck/frozen/rusted pistons.. HERE is one mention of that.. Also have seen folks using same grease gun method to remove stuck brake caliper pistons for rebuilding the calipers.. HERE Using a grease gun to grease wheel bearings are a quick fix for those that do not want to get their hands dirty, but with quick fixes, it comes at some risk. Failure to follow the directions from the manufacturer will most likely result in grease bypassing the seal. To avoid that you must rotate the wheel while greasing, that means you will need to put a jack under each axle and get it off the ground. Grease on a nice warm to hot day, cold grease does not "flow" well and will be stiff.. That will cause pressure to build up higher than when warm. Then because grease guns can develop a lot of pressure, you must pull the handle slowly. Hard and fast handle movements are where you develop the high pressure. If this is the first time greasing, it may take a lot of grease, the factory does not load them up with grease and it takes a lot of grease to load the center hub chamber. When you see grease pushing out the front bearing you can stop, no need to keep pushing. Be patient, don't be in a hurry. Myself, I have two trailers, one without EZ lube and one with.. I personally do not care for the ez lube axles, my inspection mechanic loaded them one inspection, now when the mechanic (or myself) pulls a drum we are greeted with a excess of greasy gooey mess to clean up. That grease pulls out in a big long greasy ribbon and leaves globs of grease on the axle stub.. I would rather pull and inspect my brakes periodically than worry so much about how much grease the bearings have.. Once you grease them the grease does not evaporate or disappear..
Gdetrailer 04/18/21 08:53pm Travel Trailers
RE: Help with zirk fittings

Think about this, if the hub is packed full of grease using these EZ lube bearing buddy type axles on drum brakes what is going to happen when the axles hub gets hot, the grease is going to expand and the only place has to go is in the brake drums past the seal and contaminate the brake shoes. Which is the "conventional wisdom" that my Dad taught me back when I got my first car and he showed and explained step by step on how to repack the bearings.. Big rule was to not pack the hub center full of grease. Just pack grease around all of the bearing surfaces is sufficient.. Has worked well for me for several million miles of driving across multiple cars and trucks. But I get it, not everyone likes to get hands dirty and grabbing a grease gun is very convenient..
Gdetrailer 04/18/21 02:00pm Travel Trailers
RE: New here. A few questions.

You may think that it would be cheaper to "camp" in a RV instead of hotel/motel.. May not be as cheap as you might think and most likely the campgrounds will be a bit more remote than you would like.. You may run into restrictions on min or max stay and potential of issues with getting reservations for the popular campgrounds. HERE is a search for campgrounds near San Diego..
Gdetrailer 04/18/21 01:38pm Travel Trailers
RE: Help with zirk fittings

Ok, so i have the ez lube axels or whatever they are called now. I will use them after i finish my break job. I really dont see how a normal hand pumped grease gun will push out the back seal. Hell, i have a hard enough time trying to pry out the rear seal with a hammer to repack them. The new seal is always tight goung in also. I can see if you re use an old seal, or dont put the seal in correctly that you might blow out the rear seal. But under normal operation. I cant see it happening. Now with that said, i would repack by hand every 5 years or so to check the bearings and races and such. But i plan on using the ez lubes for a few years for annual greasing after its set up. GREASE GUNS EXPLAINED "A high-pressure manual grease gun is designed to deliver from 2,000 to 15,000 psi. Applying too much pressure while greasing will damage the bearing seals, which rarely handle more than 500 psi." Should be a "no brainer" since even the cheapest of the cheapest grease guns will easily develop more than 500 PSI. Some guns may have an adjustable relief valve but that would require calibration.
Gdetrailer 04/18/21 01:18pm Travel Trailers
RE: 50amp EMS w/surge

BTW The 120/240V 50A is SINGLE PHASE, it's a common misconception that it's 2 phase, etc. Split phase is a reasonable description. :R Connect L1 and L2 together on a proper 120/240 circuit and see what happens.. L1 and L2 are 180 degrees "out of phase" compared to each other and even the neutral and that IS correct. When L1 is going in positive direction L2 is going in a negative direction. When L1 is going negative the L2 is going positive. And there is ZERO "wrong" with what I posted. The problem you have is "semantics". There are 30A to 50A dogbones that only supply L1 with 120V connection and there are 30A to 50A dogbones that will connect both L1 and L2 to the single 120V 30A power source.. As I told the OP, all they can do is try it, if their dogbone does not connect both L1 and L2 together then their EMS will not allow voltage to pass.. However a REAL "EMS" in theory should not allow ANY voltage pass that has the exact same direction waveform on L1 and L2 as that is a violation..
Gdetrailer 04/17/21 02:05pm Travel Trailers
RE: 50amp EMS w/surge

I am going to take a stab that it won't allow power if you are only supplying power to only one of the "legs".. Page 6 of the manual.. HERE "Example: The EMS shuts down power for low voltage on Line-1 and then power is restored. " In a nutshell it is supposed to not allow voltage to pass if it is below 104V.. Guessing that would also mean that BOTH L1 and L2 must have voltage higher than 104V.. Page 5 seems to indicate that both L1 and L2 need voltages higher than 104V.. "NOTE: If the display indicates an error code other than E 0 or E 10, the EMS will not allow power to the RV. " Now if your 30A 120V adapter were to supply voltage to both L1 and L2 then it "might" work but if unit is looking for L2 to be 180 degrees out of phase (the way it should be) then I suspect the unit won't pass voltage on to the trailer.. But, hey, you might get lucky and the EMS doesn't care if L1 and L2 are in phase.. All you can do is try it with the EMS and if it doesn't work just remove it or bypass it?
Gdetrailer 04/17/21 01:40pm Travel Trailers
RE: How to remove tail light from 2020. Rock wood mini lite

LED lights are sealed and the LEDs inside the assembly are not "replaceable". To fix, you must replace the entire fixture. You might wish to do some troubleshooting before replacing the fixture.. Clean all the contacts on the plug from the trailer and the socket on the vehicle, the connections tend to get corroded. You can use some sandpaper rolled up a few layers and flattened out size it to fit in the plug contacts to scrub the contacts shiny. Vehicles often have fuses on stop/turn/running lights, make sure those fuses are good, read your vehicles manual to find out the location of those fuses. Your trailer may also have fuses, if so those may be located near the tongue, follow the tow vehicle to trailer cable to see if you can find a junction and fuse box.. Barring all that, pull the tail lights, move the known working one to the side that isn't working.. If the good tail light works then you know you need to replace the bad one.. If you don't wish to go to the work of troubleshooting you can just throw money at it and buy a new replacement and hope that is the fix to the problem.. If they look like these.. https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/813Y9QEKOpL._AC_SL1500_.jpg height=300 width=300 They use a rubber grommet that surrounds the light.. You can pry the light out of the grommet or the grommet out of the RV body.. Although it is possible that if there is caulking around the fixture the caulking may be hiding the screw holes so you will want to remove the caulking ans see what is under it..
Gdetrailer 04/17/21 01:08pm Travel Trailers
RE: Looking for a new trailer

Walk around King or Queen bed? Wanting the bed to stay a bed? Sounds like a "separate" bedroom layout.. Pretty rare in TTs, better chance of finding that in 5th wheels or extremely long TTs (30Ft+).. Yrs ago were were looking for a Queen (not walk around) in a separate bedroom with real wall and door.. Only found that setup in 32ft+ TTs.. Never found any "walk around" Queen beds in TTs. As Huntingdog mentioned, gens in TTs are pretty rare, Toy hauler or 5th wheel might be your choices.. Toy Hauler, you could use the "garage" area and convert that to a Master bedroom with your walkaround King/Queen bed.. Downside to Toyhaulers is that they often have a very heavy tongue weight empty because when you put bikes/quads/golfcart in the garage the tongue would be too light and under 10% TW when loaded. So, you will need a tow vehicle with sufficient available cargo weight to handle the heavy tongue..
Gdetrailer 04/17/21 12:58pm Travel Trailers
RE: Roof Replacement

Using that "logic" one would want to get rid of the fridge vent, the A/C unit(s) and the black and grey tank vents, then you have zero holes to deal with.. In the future when we have all electric, self driving RV's there will be no need for windshields. That will be even less to leak. :C And with no windows it will contain your lifeless body when it comes to a sudden stop as the computer operated vehicle collides with an immovable object its sensors failed to see :E
Gdetrailer 04/17/21 07:39am Travel Trailers
RE: DVD and Blu Ray being discontinued?

When we go camping I download whatever we want to watch from Prime or Netflix onto my iPhone. For Prime you can keep a program at least 72 hours after you have started watching it, but you can keep them up to 30 days if you haven't watched them yet. I bought an adapter for the iPhone that has an HDMI cable socket. iPhone adaptor. There are cheaper ones on Amazon but a lot of reviews say they don't work. This one is from Apple and works fine for me. You start watching the downloaded/saved program on the phone and it can be watched on the TV once the HDMI is selected. I found that if you try to start watching with the cable already connected it gives an error message, but if you start it on the phone and then plug in the cable it works great! The only limitation is how much space you have available on your phone. What you are talking about is different than what I questioned about.. "Prime" may allow you to "download and view later" on the same device it was downloaded too but mileshuff has mentioned "storing" on their Laptop or NAS (Network Attached Storage) and then accessing the laptop or the NAS remotely to watch the downloaded files from Netflix ect. I cut the cord years ago. No cable. Couldn't justify the high cost cable companies charge. Just Wifi. Anything I can access or store on my laptop or NAS I can stream to TV. I do have a roof antenna for local broadcasts but don't watch them very often. I'm about 50 miles from broadcast antennas and pick up about 50 channels although most are in Spanish. I do subscribe to Netflix, Sling and Amazon Prime plus a ton of freebie channels thru Roku. Not sure what I'll do if prices go way up for those. mileshuff is implying that they are somehow downloading streaming material (copy protected streams by the way) to a PC, then moving the streamed file (copy protected?) to their NAS. Then accessing the PC or NAS via a different remote device (unauthorized) which should not be able to view those copy protected downloaded streams.. This implies somehow, mileshuff has found a way around the stream copy protection. I am no fool to this game and neither is the streaming services which is why they copy protect the streams to prevent one from copying and distributing video streams to other unauthorized devices.. Perhaps I am wrong, I don't know, but I see a lot of mentions about saving streams and watching later using other devices that the streams were not downloaded on..
Gdetrailer 04/16/21 03:32pm Technology Corner
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