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 > Your search for posts made by 'Gdetrailer' found 311 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Looking for a DYI forum or site for travel traliers

Everyone wants USA Healthcare "fixed" but yet everytime they attempt to "fix" it they end up making it worse by attacking the wrong end of the problem. "Universal" coverage insurance is the absolute wrong place to start, you have to start in the place that is costing the healthcare system the most.. LITIGATION as in Lawsuits, Lawyers and such. Tort limitations and REASONABLE settlements for truly bad outcomes can easily reduce the cost without any Government run health system. It starts at the Liability insurance that ALL healthcare personal, Hospitals, Doctors and other staff must carry to protect themselves from being sued. Have a sister who is a DR of Veterinary Medicine, when she first became a DR the Vet clinic she worked at paid her Liability insurance to the tune of $60K per yr!! Fast forward 20+ yrs and I would hate to see what that costs now let alone what a DR of humans would need for insurance.. Then there is the "health insurance providers", yeah, my Primary DR tells me they are not losing money, many have an "surplus" of money in the Billions of Dollars but yet they are telling the DRs like mine what the DRs must or can't do otherwise the DRs will not get reimbursed for services rendered.. I suspect that the DRs are being told to "push" the latest, greatest most expensive meds even though there may be less expensive older meds which work just as well or better than the new ones.. My DR has alluded to that.. Hopefully you can come up with a plan on your Trailer, as I mentioned, a custom builder most likely would be a better place to start for your situation. You have very specific needs which they should be able to design and build for you. After fully rebuilding two TTs, I can tell you that it is not as easy as it looks to rebuild and even would be harder to start from ground zero with nothing to go by. Trailers have a balance thing that must be considered, axles must be in the correct place, your weight must be distributed correctly. Failure to get your load balance and or the axles balanced correctly will result in a trailer with a very bad towing instability. IF you really wish to pursue from scratch, there was a company called "GLEN L" which offered some basic build pans. You can also search for "trailer design plans", vary your search terms and read up as much as possible! There has been a few folks on this forum who have built from scratch, there was one who built a 5th wheel with slide outs, might have been by the name of Chad? I am sure someone else may remember that fellow and can find his build threads on this forum. Additionally you will need to make sure you have all of the DOT stuff covered like your clearance lights, running lights and tail lights are in the correct positions and you will need axles with electric brakes and a emergency break away system.
Gdetrailer 01/12/20 03:58pm Travel Trailers
RE: Looking for a DYI forum or site for travel traliers

WOW ... impressive towing ..... but a scary price tag! My wife works ..... amazing since most handicapped people don't either by choice (sit at home an collect SSI) or because they can't find a job .. or in some cases just he logistics of getting to and from a job. She has worked since she graduated. They let her work from home most of the time, just having to go into the office a couple times a week for meetings and such (she works for the admissions department of a college doing computer work ... or as I call it, creating spam). Her family said she could not drive. When we moved to the country (well 20 min from the city ... all VT is rural) .... I told her to try for her drivers license. She had wanted to but go t no encouragement. She took lessons ... was taught to use hand controls (she can mover her arms but not her hands) and passed a standard drivers test. Here in VT, there is a program ... if you have a job and need to get to it (there is no transit from out our way to the city) than they will pay for the conversion. You still need to buy the vehicle but they pay for any modifications you need. This really freed me up ... I was always driving her somewhere ... now she comes home .... I do her care and she can be off again. She has gone from part time work to working overtime almost every week. So, since she drives, we need a van ... she can't transfer and needs to stay seated in her wheelchair while driving. Full size or mini but a van that we can have a lift put in and have equipped with hand controls. Thanks ..... Mike My hat is off to you and your wife! VT is a very pretty place to live, one of my brothers moved to Southern VT (40 minutes from Bennington)and we visited him and his family every summer for a week. He passed away 10 yrs ago, still miss him, he was a great "tour guide" for us always found lots of neat places to show us while we were there.. I'm not a fan of the VT snow and cold temps but he liked it.
Gdetrailer 01/11/20 08:53pm Travel Trailers
RE: Water heater plastic plug

Does anyone know of a nylon plug that has an integrated drain valve? Thanks in advance. :R It isn't "rocket science", "brain surgery", require a Masters degree or even the need to stay in a "Holiday Inn" to remove and reinstall a simple little "nylon" (to keep in politically correct and not call it plastic) plug nor is it difficult to do so without causing damage or even being inconvenient.. Yes, the Attwood plug location is a bit of a pain to get to, but it CAN be done and you do not HAVE to drain it every day. ONCE A SEASON IS PLENTY or when extreme cold camping drain it before things freeze. They DO make a special tool for removing and installing, it doesn' cost a arm or leg or you can use standard every day and easy to find socket and wrench with a short extension. Absolutely no "need" for Anode rod, no need for drain valves or petcocks, in fact I absolutely HATED that lousy miserable brass drain petcock on the Suburban water heater my first TT had.. Blasted brass petcocks tend to get really stuck shut which requires using a pair of channel locks bending the ears and hopefully not snapping it off in the process.. And as luck had it, the Suburban petcock also was in such a place that even was a challenge to get channel locks into.. Buy the stupid NYLON PLUG and use either the special tool or a socket wrench with a short extension and move on. The Nylon plug IS the proper tool for the job.. That is what the manufacturer designed to be used.
Gdetrailer 01/10/20 08:51pm Tech Issues
RE: 6 gal electric hot water heater upgrade

Why are you scared to use propane? Water heater does not vent into or use inside air for combustion, therefore is rather safe to use. Your stove would be the greatest danger but simply cracking one or two windows and running the range hood vent fan (provided it is vented to the outside) can make cooking inside rather safe to do so. Running your furnace is pretty much the same as you water heater, the air used for combustion is drawn from outside and is sent right back outside because the combustion chamber is sealed from the inside air and the combustion byproducts are not going to directly enter your RV. Your idea of electric only is a fools paradise, a typical RVs electrical system is 120V at 30A which is 3600W of power. 3600W is roughly 12,283 BTU/hr. Your RV gas water heater burner can supply 40,000 BTU/hr Pretty much will take 4 times longer AND you will not have a quick recovery time (would take hours before you have hot water again. Not to mention that would take ALL of your electric available and would have to shut off everything in your RV. Now, if you are considering "instant" electric water heaters, most small point of use 120V ones will not deliver much in results and you will be disappointed. Instant tankless electric water heaters have a small temperature rise and that gets smaller the faster you run water through it. Replace your RV tank gas water heater with the same model and brand and don't bother going down the electric only bunny trail..
Gdetrailer 01/07/20 08:23pm Travel Trailers
RE: Changing Atwood water heater plug to brass

My plastic plugs from the Amazon link arrived Thurs afternoon Installed a new plug today No more leak, :) Simple and inexpensive leak fix without the need to "reinvent the wheel".
Gdetrailer 01/05/20 08:07pm Tech Issues
RE: Generator RF Noise

MOVE the antenna as far away from the generator as possible. If that doesn't work then you will need to determine of the noise is ignition noise from the gen engine or AVR/brush related noise from the gen head. Ignition noise is very common on small engines, typically most small engines do not have resister plugs (which suppress ignition noise). Check the plug number to see if it a resistor plug on not, if not then replace the plug with the resistor plug equivalent (you can find plug crossover information by searching the wobbly web). If not ignition noise then it may be the AVR which uses brushes, worn/dirty brushes can cause excessive RFI but might not be easy or cheap to fix..
Gdetrailer 01/05/20 03:43pm Tech Issues
RE: Looking for a DYI forum or site for travel traliers

Weight is critical .... with 10,000 lbs towing, I am hoping not to exceed this. I would think that is probably the limit of most trucks short of going to a diesel ?? Mike No, many newer gas engine trucks can easily exceed 10K lbs towing provided they are optioned correctly. For example, our 2013 F250 super cab short bed 4x2 with 6.2 gas engine has 3451 lbs of available cargo weight.. http://i.imgur.com/lyphUddl.jpg The thing to look out for is a HIGHLY optioned vehicle with the top trim level AND Diesel will most likely have a LOWER tow rating because of the weight of all the options plus the weight of a Diesel is far heavier than a gas engine. I custom order my trucks, this way I get it configured for max payload without all of the expensive gingerbread.. Costs far less also, just bought a 2020 F250 XLT Supercab shortbed 4x2 with 6.2, out the door cost was $43K.. If I bought off dealer inventory I would be hard pressed to escape UNDER $60K and far less cargo capacity (many on the lot trucks had MSRPs starting at $70K upwards to $80K). Vans are sort of a special creature and they do suffer on payload even though they may be "classed" as 3/4 or 1 ton. Best to check with your van outfitter to see what the REAL available cargo weight will be after the mods before you commit to a 10K trailer.. On edit.. FYI, just checked my 2020, available cargo weight is 3800 lbs! If I remember correctly they are rating the 6.2 F250 around 15K lbs towing..
Gdetrailer 01/05/20 01:51pm Travel Trailers
RE: Adhesive for Aluminum roof to plywood?

Well, no offense intended, as all I know are the three TC’s I’ve owned. The 19 year old Lance In my sig, and two Jayco TC’s before that. All had a seamless aluminum roof, and there was definitely more than just the aluminum up there. Probably because TC’s don’t sit on a steel frame like a trailer, and their roofs are usually intended to be walked on. But, the construction of the trailer they’re rebuilding sounds very similar. The only TC I’ve had to open up the roof on is the Lance, and there is a layer of some type of insulation between the aluminum roof, and the layer of plywood or luan that’s on top of the ribs. The voids between the ribs are filled with more insulation, then the ceiling plywood is on the inside. The OP’s trailer that they are rebuilding also has plywood over the roof ribs, whether by their design or the OEM. If it were my camper, I wouldn’t try to adhere the aluminum to the plywood, but would put a thin (~1/8”) layer of some type of felt or foam insulation between. Mainly because I believe it will help quiet the roof when it rains, but it may also have some benefit in preventing condensation. :):) You don't believe me? OK, how about some PROOF? Put you money where your keyboard is and POST a pix? I will start and end the argument with REAL proof of what I say. The following is a photo I took of my first TT, a 1981 20ft trailer.. https://i.imgur.com/B5Dh9Lgl.jpg That is a pix of the side wall AND partial pix of the ROOF after I removed the interior paneling and fiberglass insulation. There was NO, NOTHING, NADA between the aluminum and wall studs or aluminum roof and roof truss cross members. There was NOTHING, NADA, ZIP between the aluminum and the wood or insulation. This same design was also used on my 1983 TT. THAT IS STANDARD RV DESIGN AND WAY IT IS DONE, PERIOD. Your "TC" could have been done differently if it had say an "Artic Package" but for most RVs the pix I posted above IS the "Gold Standard" of how it is done and yours would be the "exception" to that rule.
Gdetrailer 01/05/20 11:50am Travel Trailers
RE: Looking for a DYI forum or site for travel traliers

Dropping the floor typically requires major modifications to the frame of vehicle, often results in considerable amount of reinforcements to the frame. This is going to put you in the same place as a customized van with reduced cargo capacity. Raising the roof of the van, typically they will cut off the roof of the van then install a fiberglass roof which gives additional headroom. Fiberglass roofs do add considerable weight. Not impossible, but this can be a substantial issue to take into consideration because you typically will run out of cargo capacity well before you hit the tow ratings. Your hitch weight becomes cargo of your vehicle and with bumper pulls your hitch weight MUST be no less than 10% (10%-15% is typical TW range)of the trailer for a stable tow. The higher TW, the more stable the tow so ideally you really want to shoot for 15% TW when loaded. 15% of 10,000 lbs is 1,500 lbs TW without taking in account weight distribution hitch weight. Additionally, your van may not have a hitch receiver from factory and adding that will reduce your available cargo. For your needs, I highly recommend you look up custom horse trailer builders, I have one in my area that builds theirs out of all aluminum including the frame.. They can make them not look like horse trailers and should be able to build to your specific needs with wheel chair access designed in from the start. Most likely they will be able to build it quicker and you won't have to spend so much time DIYing it. Another option is to start with a cargo trailer but they tend to be pretty heavy to start with and that may become an issue.
Gdetrailer 01/04/20 09:26pm Travel Trailers
RE: Looking for a DYI forum or site for travel traliers

Xtal, you have a compelling argument for a DIY trailer, does remove the vehicle issues because now when the vehicle becomes a problem child you can replace with a newer one. BUT, Wheel chair modified vans might present some challenges, all of the modifications will most likely reduce the cargo capacity of the van. You would have to carefully control how heavy your DIY trailer gets so you do not exceed the vans leftover cargo rating. I was going to have a trailer builder that custom builds horse trailers with living space make a frame for me and title it. Then I was going to build the box on top of that. Before I was able to give the go ahead, I found a old rotted TT in the length I wanted and bought that for $700 instead, gutted the trailer and made it the way I wanted. This gave me good windows, good bath tub with surround, good furnace, good A/C, good stove with oven and much more. Windows, doors, furnace, A/C, Stove are insanely expensive to buy new. Hindsight, I should have removed all the good stuff, then cut the bolts and removed the rotted box then built from scratch and new box. Would have saved me months of work.. I would however, suggest rather than attempting to build from scratch you might want to look up custom horse trailer builders.. Many custom horse trailer builders offer pretty darn nice living quarters and it wouldn't take much work to have them build a all living quarters trailer specifically around your needs..
Gdetrailer 01/04/20 08:34pm Travel Trailers
RE: Adhesive for Aluminum roof to plywood?

The aluminum sheet on the roof of my TC isn’t glued to the wood at all. IIRC there is a layer of felt or closed cell foam between the aluminum and the wood, but it’s held down by the perimeter trim and screws. I don’t think I’d try to full-spread glue it. I would also pass on the EPDM, TPO, or any other flexible membrane roofing. Nothing beats aluminum. In other words, what he said ^ :B :):) yes you will want the felt or some kind of insulation that aluminum is going to sweat not a good situation. Jay D. RV and Mobil home manufacturers NEVER put anything under an aluminum roof. Yes, I HAVE worked on mobile homes and I HAVE delt with RVs with aluminum roofs, there is NOTHING THERE, not even plywood. The aluminum just lays over top the roof ribs.. Not saying it is the best way, just saying that IS what has been done. You are always free to do what you think is best..
Gdetrailer 01/04/20 08:11pm Travel Trailers
RE: Adhesive for Aluminum roof to plywood?

As far as the OPs question, aluminum roofing does not need glued down, it is secured via screws around the entire perimeter, the middle floats. In fact it needs to float to allow for expansion and contraction with temperature changes The reason most manufacturers don't use aluminum is the expansion and contraction, especially on large units. Most leaks are not from the material (whatever it is) failing, but from the sealant around various necessary penetrations failing. Aluminum because of the large amount of expansion/contraction is very hard on the sealant.... It can easily fail in the short warranty periods that RVs typically have... That costs money in warranty claims... And that is why the manufacturers have moved away from it. The flexible roofing most use now have a certain amount of "give" that is beneficial to the sealants, and the do not expand/ contract much. Huntin'.. COST is the factor and reason, not the expansion/contraction. Price aluminum vs the cost of EPDM/VINYL/TPO and you will quickly realize that you will save hundreds of $$. RV industry and manufacturing is a COST driven thing, lower the cost and increase profits, RV industry like any other manufacturing industry must make enough profit to make it worthwhile to stay in business. If one can save $100 in materials and labor per unit and you build say 10,000 of the same item per year, you now have an extra cool 1 MILLION DOLLARS in PROFITS (yeah that is $1,000,000) that now can be pocketed by the CEO and management.. That IS how real businesses work. They don't care one bit about if it will make it past the measily 1 or 2 yr "warranty" period, they CAN afford to "fix" your broken RV under warranty because they SAVED money UP FRONT when building it.
Gdetrailer 01/04/20 08:07pm Travel Trailers
RE: Towing a 2640lb 16ft TT with a Ford Ranger 4.0L?

The Ranger should have adequate capacity to tow something like that as long as you don't expect 40 mpg at 70 mph through the mountains. Maybe an Explorer would better suit your needs OP WOULD need a Ranger with 4.0 engine at a minimum, they listed ASHEVILLE which is in NC and is pretty mountainous area. However, I would caution the OP on buying a Ranger, most are not equipped for towing (IE no hitch, no heavy duty radiator or extra transmission cooler) and have only the ball mount hole on the bumper step (no Weight distribution possible). Additionally, while the 4.0 is a decent motor, it does have one major "Achilles heel" which is issues with the heads developing a crack often on the rear cylinders.. I have several relatives who have experienced this multiple times. The explanation we got was the oil passages in the rear tend to plug, this allows build up of sludge and that sludge holds more heat and the extra heat buildup stresses the heads to the point of cracking. Rangers also tend to have a lot of rust issues in the front end, radiator supports and bumper supports seem to just disintegrate over night.. Honestly, for the money you will pay for a Ranger, you can often find a F150 CHEAPER. Friend of mine just recently bought a '08 F150 4x4 with about 100K miles for $9K! You would be hard pressed to buy a Ranger for less unless you are looking at '80s Rangers with lots of rust rot..
Gdetrailer 01/04/20 03:26pm Travel Trailers
RE: Adhesive for Aluminum roof to plywood?

why not use the EPDM rubber roofing material used on most RVs. its probably not much more than aluminum in cost and probably easier to install. use Dicor self leveling sealer for any penetrations and you'll be good to go. I sure wouldn't want an aluminum roof with screws of any kind in it if I was looking for long life. Google RecPro, Dicor EPDM roofing Jay D. Because "EPDM" and any other flexible non metallic roof solution is a short lived 10yr-15yr fix. Aluminum can often go 30yr-50yrs without being replaced which makes aluminum far cheaper but yet far superior overall. RV industry moved to using EPDM, vinyl roofing because it is cheaper than aluminum roofing, requires less skill and less labor to install which = MORE PROFITS. It was not because it was better than aluminum! As far as the OPs question, aluminum roofing does not need glued down, it is secured via screws around the entire perimeter, the middle floats. In fact it needs to float to allow for expansion and contraction with temperature changes. The only places that will need screws is vents to hold the vents in place. The perimeter screws are hidden via the trim pieces at the top of the walls. The aluminum roofing is folded down over the side walls, then the top side wall trim is installed, a bead of butyl caulking is what is used to water proof between the roofing, walls and trim.
Gdetrailer 01/04/20 02:38pm Travel Trailers
RE: Coil on plug # 6 on Ford V10

I have my doubts that #6 has any design errors above any other cylinder, I highly suspect that it is more like a coincidence that folks are pointing to #6 more often because they are POSTING the "results" that they found. Good chance that there are just as many other folks who DIDN'T post (unreported) about #6 evening out the odds.. Pretty much with a V10 you have 10 coils/plugs to figure out which one is the problem child.. So, a 1 in 10 thing IF it is only 1 if you are lucky. I had one 5.4 go 200,000 miles before experiencing a COP failure and another 5.4 which barely made it 100,000 miles before a COP failure.. Don't remember which cylinder. I can tell you this, don't buy the generic COPsm they are good for troubleshooting but I didn't have them last more than 6 months before random misfires. You can buy a complete set of generic COPs for troubleshooting ($60 for 8) and when you find the bad one replace it with a OEM one ($60 for ONE). As far as popping plugs, I have had 5.4s from 97, 2003, 2006 and combined mileage of almost 500,000 miles and never popped one. The reason for no popped plugs, you MUST use a TORQUE WRENCH and TORQUE THE PLUGS TO PROPER SPECIFICATIONS FOR THAT ENGINE YEAR!!!! You can not rely on hand feel torquing like everyone did on iron heads, you will either overshoot and damage aluminum head threads or under torque and have the plugs work lose. If you did not use a torque wrench, please reconsider..
Gdetrailer 12/31/19 01:14pm Tech Issues
RE: Help with towing math and trailer /vehicle specs

The yellow sticker does NOT account for weight of a driver. The weight of ALL occupants counts towards the payload. The only time weight of a driver is included is the tow rating. Have heard it BOTH WAYS, however, if I remember correctly it is in the FORD manual as DRIVER AND FULL LOAD OF FUEL. Granted, the OP has a GM, BUT if you are fighting over 200 lbs of cargo (driver), you BOUGHT THE WRONG TRUCK! By the way, the yellow sticker I posted IS from MY 2019 F250, yep, 3400+ lbs of available cargo and I am not having to count how many potato chips I can take with me.. :B I don't mess around with piddly little numbers.. OP, not so much, I suspect his 1/2 ton is either 7,000 or 7,200 lb (typical 1/2 ton class weight that PA uses for registering) which would be 1,900 Gross Cargo (not including fuel or driver) or 1,700 Gross Cargo (not including driver or fuel) once you subtract the curb weight.. But that is a GUESS and the OP needs to find and read the yellow sticker..
Gdetrailer 12/30/19 08:17pm Travel Trailers
RE: Changing Atwood water heater plug to brass

I am considering a brass plug, as my plastic plug and delicate Alu threads are leaking, even with Teflon tape on the plastic plug Going to follow this thread Maybe some pipe dope on a new plastic plug ? I do drain once a year , and would prefer for it to be removable Buy a new Nylon plug when they start to seep/leak. New Nylon plugs are cheap, new water heater, not so much. Seeping or leaking means the Nylon PLUG is worn out and time to replace. Teflon in this case just makes things leak worse, no need or reason to use it on the proper Nylon plugs. Teflon reduces the friction which allows one to continue tightening pipe. As mentioned, pipe threads are tapered meaning the diameter is smaller on one end and increases on the male end (outside thread). Female end (inside thread)the outside is larger and the further the pipe goes in the smaller it is. Tapered pipe thread when done properly can actually seal without any need for Teflon or pipe dope. I have a 110 yr old auto engine which uses spark plugs with tapered pipe threads, no Teflon or pipe dope and it still seals! I do kind of like that brass pipe extension someone did. However with the cost of brass pipe, fittings and cap it couldn't be cheap. Camco 2 pack of Nylon plugs $4.56 HERE My water heater is going on 12 yrs with the original plug, I should buy a replacement soon since it is now worn enough that the plug is almost out of threads (remember, it IS tapered so as the plug wears down it will screw in further until you run out of threads). I use a socket wrench with a short extension to tighten mine, start threading plug by hand then switch to socket wrench and only tighten enough to stop the seeping and no more.
Gdetrailer 12/30/19 02:17pm Tech Issues
RE: Help with towing math and trailer /vehicle specs

I have a 2018 GMC sierra 6 sp 3.43 rear 5.3 engine 2 wh drive. I cannot find the GCWR on this truck but I am contemplating a trailer with following specs - GVWR 5692, Cargo cap 1580, UVW 4112, Hitch 412. The truck factory curb wt is 5300 lbs. I will have one passenger and one driver both around 200 lbs. ea and about 200 lbs in the bed. Will this truck handle this trailer?? Thanks and appreciate your assistance. You do not need GCWR in reality, what you need is the CARGO weight available.. The trailer tongue weight becomes "cargo" of your tow vehicle. That information is now on a mandatory YELLOW sticker which typically is placed on the drivers side door or door frame. Looks like this.. http://i.imgur.com/lyphUddl.jpg Yellow sticker weight has already taken in account the driver and full tank of fuel. You would subtract your passenger(s) and any other weight added to the cab or bed to get the max tongue weight you can have. Rather than have internet keyboard jockeys guess your vehicles specs, it is bets to find your cargo weight and figure it out yourself.
Gdetrailer 12/30/19 12:46pm Travel Trailers
RE: 30 FT Full Timing Camper

To the point.. Bumper pulls with washer drier OEM OR hookups, nope.. Might find that in a "Destination" or "Park" model. As TurnThePage mentioned, your looking at a perhaps a Bunkhouse TT which you would then need to modify and tear out the bunks which would give you the space for a washer and drier. I will also mention that a "30ft" bumper pull trailer will end up being LONGER than your 40ft 5th Wheel when hitched. Bumper pulls typically do not include the hitch and tongue so when you add that to 30ft of box you now are 35ft-36ft.. Your 40ft 5th wheel by it's nature of the hitch pin being in the center of your truck bed shortens the over all length of your rig when hitched.. Perhaps you should be looking at 30ft 5th wheels and not bumper pulls, you are more likely to find Washer/drier prepped 30ft 5th wheels than bumper pulls..
Gdetrailer 12/29/19 01:18pm Travel Trailers
RE: How do you summer travel?

For those using a generator during summer travel, I personally do not see it being a cost effective night's stay. Fuel consumption for the night, to me, would equal staying at a COE park, Passport American park or similar cheaper spot. In one year of traveling cross country and back to FL, I stayed in 1 WalMart and that was because I could not find a suitable campground in the area I was in. And, since it was 47 outside, no need to worry about a generator. You do not need to run a generator all night unless you are talking night time temps well into the upper 90Fs with high humidity. Only need to run it long enough to make it comfortable to fall asleep.. What does grind my gears is the MotorHomes which have built in gens needlessly running their gens (just because they have a built in and can run it) ALL NIGHT even when the outdoor temps are in the 50Fs??? We keep our gen in the back of the truck under a hard cover, and typically we travel only in the spring/early summer when it is cooler. Avoiding the extreme summer heat and humidity along with heavy travel traffic. Out of nearly 20 yrs towing a trailer I can easily say that we have only run our portable gen no more than 5 times and even then for not much more than 30 minutes each time.. At todays fuel prices and the rate of fuel consumption (.5 gal per hr) we might have used 2.5 gallons at $2.66 a gal our total cost over 20 yrs to run our gen is a scorching $6.65! Using your ruler of measurement IF we had stopped at even the CHEAPEST campground at say $10 per night at a "COE" we would have spent $200! However coming back to reality, average RV campground on the routes we use START at $45 per night and go up.. So, that would be $900 cost for us.. But, we do not really Wallydock to save money, our real reason is it is often easy off and easy back on to our travel routes, Walmarts are everywhere AND THEY ARE OPEN 24/7/365, campgrounds are not.. Most campgrounds I have found on my routes are often miles out of our way on pretty bad narrow cow paths that they call roads. The last thing I want to do late at night is to have to turn around or back my way out to the nearest road when I get to a closed or even out of business campground. Walmarts solve my problem, one we stop at yearly is less than half mile from the Interstate on a good road with stop lights at the intersections too boot, it is surrounded by gas stations which are also easy to get in and out of so we also make it a fueling stop. Our destination is where we "camp", but it takes a couple of days to get to that destination, overnighting to us is sort of like stopping at a rest stop and getting a nap.
Gdetrailer 12/28/19 04:14pm Travel Trailers
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