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RE: How many amps does my inverter provide

Thanks for continuing the discussion Landyacht and Gdetrailer. I have a clarifying question. I do use one of the mentioned plug in adapters to charge my phone while driving. And yes over time the plug vibrates out and I have to push it back into the socket. And I agree this is not the best solution. I'm a bit confused though on the use of the USB port. In my rear power panel I used something like the picture below with the power wires attached to the rear. Are you guys saying that using this type of plug is also bad and should be avoided? Link to plug I used https://i.imgur.com/nOiKGYE.jpg?1 height=480 No, the "bad" discussion is is not with the "adapter" you are using, LandY's beef is with using a regular cig lighter plug in.. Here is a pix of the back of your 5V adapter.. https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61hOC8jyQGL._AC_SL1162_.jpg height=300 width=300 What you selected is not the same as a cig adapter and is a permanent mounted hard wired device. What I will say though with your device they show the connection can be made with slide on connectors which you crimp the wire in the connector then slide the connector onto the device.. To me, those connectors are far, far worse of a connection since you now add a handmade crimp and a friction slide fit of the connector.. In your case, low enough wattage, most likely will not present a problem but once again adds potential of issues down the road. IF you have a good soldering iron and some rosin core solder for wire and some heatshrink wire I would skip the slide on connector route and directly solder the wires to the device if the terminals offer a small hole to thread the wire through. Gives better mechanical and electrical connection and results in best reliability. I would also suggest setting your outlet up with a on/off switch or at a minimum connect to a switched power source that only supplies power when vehicle key is on (ACC or Run).. Reason for this is this little outlet while it looks harmless WILL become an additional small Phantom draw from the battery.. If the vehicle sits for a long enough time the extra draw combined the vehicles electronics draw can flatten the starting battery.. That is why most newer vehicles now manage the cig lighter power ports via Body Control Module and will shut it off after 10 or 15 minutes after key off..
Gdetrailer 03/28/20 11:56am Tech Issues
RE: How many amps does my inverter provide

You say 80 watts is their continuous duty limitation, I say 60 .Many 12v receptacles will say 120 or 150 watts maximum, but this is wishful thinking and one best enjoy the smell of melting plastic if they are intending to ask them to pass this much current for more than a minute. In the olden days back when vehicles were built of all steel and the dash was all steel with a little hard plastic top, those cig lighter outlets were truely designed to handle up to 15A.. They had to, since every car which was equipped with one of those came with a cig lighter that you pushed in to heat and it would pop out when ready for you light your cig.. Those outlets were fused at 15A on the BACK of the outlet which is 180W for your information. Pop that fuse and you had to remove the outlet from the dash to replace. Yeah, I do have a 1970s car with one of those and I still have the cig lighter that goes in it.. Have used heavy spot lights in that along with those 1970s 12V vacuums (they made more noise than they did actual work), 50W Mobile two way radio telephone (think like "5 O" TV series when they wanted a phone patch), CBs, 50W 2mtr Ham radio equipment, .5 cu ft 12V absorbsion fridge and even used 12V air compressors to fill low tires.. I have never had burnt contacts in any of my vehicles or any other calamities that you mention. Keeping in mind that they were NEVER designed for 24/7/365 permanent high power use, they were designed for a quick high wattage burst then off (think as in how the old fashion cig lighter worked) they provide a universal power port which is readily available, easy to use and pretty much every vehicle in the world built since the 1990s come with at least one as a standard item. The issue you have had is not the socket but the PLUG, not all plugs are well designed and that IS the problem you have had.. Cheap plugs have very poorly designed negative contacts, often not much more than a light ga wire with barely enough spring load to prevent the plug from backing out.. The fix is easy, change the plug.. There are better plug designs which have a wide contact area on the negative contacts which have a higher spring load.. Those do not backout easy and are often rated 15A or better. https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71ffREy4BBL._AC_SL1500_.jpg height=300 width=300 And for the record, a few years ago when "car PCs" were the rage and laptops were insanely priced, I built a poor mans car PC for my DD to use while traveling.. Found a low power system board with a 1.6ghz Atom processor (27W for the system board), 500 GB HD a 12" TV with VGA input and ran it off a 400W inverter.. All told the PC wattage with the TV monitor was just at 80W.. Yeah, didn't burn up the plug or outlet, didn't have any issues with PC quitting either..
Gdetrailer 03/28/20 09:59am Tech Issues
RE: ? L E D taillights

This is what I replaced the incandescent units with. I could have simply replaced the lamps with LED's but this was FAR BETTER! https://i.imgur.com/socupPol.jpg This is what I used on my 1984 Komfort, I can testify that they are super bright. However, the brightness comes with a cost.. Less life. Yep, I HAVE had to replace 3 modules out of 4 in less than 5 yrs of very little use compared to what they should last. I will say though the replacement modules so far have been better in life. Considering just how expensive these ones are they should outlast the RV life and buying individual replacements is super insanely priced. I would suggest buying an extra two bay "tail, turn, stop" ASSEMBLIES while you are at it so you have a set of spares to replace any module that quits while on the road. https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71xdvuUskjL._AC_SL1500_.jpg height=300 width=300 The two bay costs around $47-$50 and single "replacement" modules can cost $38-$40 each. You can also buy drop in plug and play replacements if you have the Bargman #84 frame.. https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/51NfFNS3T9L._AC_.jpg height=300 width=300 Which run $25-$30 each.. You will not find these at your local Walmart so keeping a spare is a wise idea..
Gdetrailer 03/28/20 09:26am Tech Issues
RE: How many amps does my inverter provide

I recommend skipping the Ciggy plug whenever possible too, It is a horrible, contemptible, highly resistive electrical connection, that gets worse with age and the more current it is asked to pass. I've had one of the supposedly 'better' ciggy plug and mating receptacle buzz audibly when using a PWM dimmer on some leds, and could stop the whine/buzz simply by changing the pressure on the plug, but as soon as I let off it came back. There are USB receptacles designed to fit the same space as a ciggy plug 12v receptacle, This one shows Amps( @5vdc) as well as voltage reaching the plug. I considered posting about the built in USB charging ports but really didn't know exactly the OP's full intentions so ruled in favor of a Cig lighter plug style for ease of installation, portability and ease of replacement if it dies, not to mention fairly inexpensive. In reality, 12V to 5V USB chargers will not draw enough amperage to be a issue with burning or melting plug or socket contacts. I realize cig lighter outlet contacts are not all that great, but most vehicles have them built in and typically they work reasonably well provided you don't make a habit of drawing 80W or more from them Dual 2.4A 5V ports should be a max of 57W (approx 4.75A) which is below the max rating of most cig lighter outlets. Keep in mind, pretty much most of the time most devices will draw not much more than half amp to maybe 1.5A at 5V and even if it did draw 2A at 5V it would be a very short time when battery is fully depleted. So, unless you are attempting to run a high wattage inverter with a 80W or higher load a cig lighter port WILL work fine for most loads of less than 80W. In fact, most laptops now days come with 40W-60W power supplies so you can buy generic universal 12V to laptop power supplies (12V battery voltage in and 16V-21V output selected by the tip you install)up to 90W which will not have any issue with using a cig lighter port.. Like this. https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61dKcrJVkjL._AC_SL1500_.jpg height=300 width=300 I HAVE done that on a i7 Quad core 2ghz processor 2 in 1 laptop/tablet with touch screen with a TB SSD drive (eats battery)and it worked flawlessly! I am not a fan of running a 12V to 120V inverter and then plug in a simple phone/tablet 5V battery charger.. Too many conversions = wasted energy in heat. Just not the right tool for phone charging.
Gdetrailer 03/27/20 05:05pm Tech Issues
RE: Electric black tank dump valve. Worth it?

I don't see where an electric valve would be more trouble free than a cable or direct mechanical manual valve.. They all wear out or have issues. Perhaps time to see if you could relocate valve to a easier to get to location in order to eliminate the cable? Alternate would be use a standard manual valve but attach a sturdy metal rod to the pull handle and bring that out to a location you can get to.. That would get rid of the flimsy cable setup..
Gdetrailer 03/24/20 06:47pm General RVing Issues
RE: How many amps does my inverter provide

Thanks all, I figured I was good but wanted to be sure. The inverter is only going to be powered by an ignition positive source to power a few phone chargers so I'm not too concerned about draining the battery. But it is good to know about the limitations. Why use a 12V to 120V inverter to go to 5V USB to charge a phone? You can go direct from 12V to 5V with one of these.. https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61hVeuYpIHL._AC_SL1150_.jpg height=300 width=300 $10 for a 2.4A two USB port cig port charger.. HERE 2.4A will handle pretty much any phone or Tablet with ease. Save the inverter for much heavier 120V loads..
Gdetrailer 03/24/20 06:32pm Tech Issues
RE: insurance

I suspect Wayne is pretty much correct, just because it is "permanently" moored in that spot does not mean it has any insurable value to an insurance Company. RVs generally of that age are not worth more than the scrap value of the metal that is there so convincing an insurance Company to underwrite an insurance policy for a few thousand is going to be difficult and not to mention prohibitively expensive. To put this into perspective, my TT which is a 1984 model I purchased for $700 12 yrs ago. I put just under $4K into rebuilding it from water damage, it is still only worth $700 and it would be a hard sell at that price even though the water damaged wood and paneling has been removed and replaced. Unless the trailer park specifically requires you to have insurance liability coverage you might be able to get a "renters" policy to cover the CONTENTS ONLY.. But there may be occupancy requirements so ask questions.. Hate to say it, but if you paid more than a couple of thousand you may have paid too much even if it is pristine condition.
Gdetrailer 03/24/20 04:48pm Travel Trailers
RE: coronavirus...put it into perspective

Not to make light of the corona virus as I am sure more will die from it but.....this is for the United States in 2017 Number of deaths for leading causes of death: Heart disease: 647,457 Cancer: 599,108 Accidents (unintentional injuries): 169,936 Chronic lower respiratory diseases: 160,201 Stroke (cerebrovascular diseases): 146,383 Alzheimer’s disease: 121,404 Diabetes: 83,564 Influenza and Pneumonia: 55,672 Nephritis, nephrotic syndrome and nephrosis: 50,633 Intentional self-harm (suicide): 47,173 coronavirus: 298 so far So...try to stay away from crowds....but don,t panic...imo None of those have the ability to tank the economy like Covid-19 already has....none of those stand to tax the health care system to the max and overwhelm things to the point where health care professional will have to make a decision on who lives and who dies . People may not only loose their lives but the economic impact will also lose people their jobs, homes, savings, retirement savings, cars, trucks, rv's....you name it. Seems many folks are just too narrow minded and selfish to take it serious enough...........let's see you post again in 3 to 6 months and see if you've changed your attitude and perspective on things. What has "tanked" the "Economy" is FUD (Fear, Uncertainty, Doubt) which has more rapidly spread by not only Media outlets but by Internet forums like this. Daytrader's list has what is "Knowns" in life, we are all well aware of and used to. The big problem with "Covid" is it is not well know, it is a recent "jump" that humans have not been exposed to and some folks carry it with no symptoms, some get mild symptoms and some severe symptoms to the point of death. One can only take guesses (and that IS what all of the numbers being bantered around) to how many have it, how many have died from it and how many more it will affect and just how overwhelmed the Hospitals will be. FUD, that is the problem, not really so much COVID.. Best thing to do, is not panic (first part of "Pandemic") and to follow what your local Authorities ask you to do like stay at home, shelter in place..
Gdetrailer 03/21/20 03:21pm General RVing Issues
RE: Don't come to PA

maybe residential only means you can stay there but no hay rides or pool partys Umm, perhaps RESIDENT would be what they are getting at? In other words, you would have to be a RESIDENT of the campground or a Resident of PA and the campground.. I suspect that IF the campground is open year round (few in PA are) and you LIVED in that campground yr round (IE RESIDENT) you would be fine. However, the campground would not be allowed to accept new campers.. There IS always a loophole somewhere in most laws, I suspect if one was a full timer and just happened to be in the campground and had no other place to go they might be able to ask the campground to get an exception.. Reason, is "ESSENTIAL LIFE SUSTAINING BUSINESS" for the full timers who have no other place to go.. Yes, I work in a business which has been deemed Life sustaining since it is a Healthcare partner with Hospitals, my DW works at a company that provides certain materials used in medicines and DD works in a food store.. We ALL who are still working are making sacrifices and taking chances with our lives to ensure other folks lives are not impacted as bad.. Getting booze, guns, sports equipment, dining in fancy restaurants and RECREATIONAL CAMPING is not ESSENTIAL LIFE SUSTAINING BUSINESS..
Gdetrailer 03/21/20 02:17pm General RVing Issues

Our water has a pH of 7.8. It has some TDS around 200 ppm. My batteries last 7 years some longer than that. Get over your fear. YUP! The company I work for uses "city" water right out the spigot in all of our forklift batteries.. Used hard and put away wet at the end of the shift which can typically run 10 hrs per day.. I can only recall once when we had a forklift battery replacement in over 20 yrs of constant abuse (discharged to near flat then quick charged overnight for the next day shift).. Myself, I would not want to use my well water, HEAVY iron solids (looks like red mud), plugs my prefilter often before it gets to my softener system (brine backwash).. Just too much possiblilty of high mineral and salt content in my water. However, what I do use is simply ANY BOTTLED DRINKING water, yes, they fully remove all minerals and then add back in a touch of minerals for balancing taste, PH levels. Those mineral levels in Bottled drinking water will not substantially harm your batteries.. Allowing air to get to the plates will do more damage than the small amount of minerals in bottled drinking water. I can easily get 10 yrs of operation out of my GC batts just adding bottled drinking water. I cannot fathom as to why folks are buying and drinking pure distilled water, that has to taste terrible and it is not good for your body since it will not supply essential minerals in your diet you typically get from regular water. CAN YOU DRINK DISTILLED WATER
Gdetrailer 03/21/20 11:42am Tech Issues
RE: New Truck - Is My Math Right?

Get yourself a Sureline tongue scale. about $125.00 on E bay. Take the scale and some blocking along to look at trailers. Set the scale under the hitch and weigh it at the dealer. Then you can add for LP gas battery etc. Keep looking until you find one that will work. I use my scale all year long to check on the weight. We also use it on our race car trailers an for $10.00 and a beer or 2 we weigh other race rigs. Have fun and welcome to the forum. hussbuss, that is a real scary way of deciding what trailer to buy, it does not give you the complete picture of the trailer.. The problem with this is you will not get the ENTIRE "dry weight" of the trailer, you are only measuring the weight of the tongue as it sits on the dealer lot. Additionally the dealer lot most likely will not be level which will also affect the tongue weight. You really do not care what the dry weight is, go with the GVWR of the trailer, calculate 10% through 15% of the GVWR as the tongue weight and go from there. This way you are no longer GUESSING as to the weight of the trailer or tongue will end up being. You seasoned dry weight folks love to make this a more convoluted and confusing way of figuring out what you can tow because you want to "maximize" and "justify" the largest and heaviest trailer you can possibly drag with you.. For a newby to towing, dry weight is a sure way to end up with more trailer than the tow vehicle will be able to handle when fully outfitted with gear and ready for camping. As far as buying a $125 scale, yeah, you could do that, however you don't need pinpoint accuracy and even these dedicated tongue scales have accuracy problems (they MUST be sitting flat and level and still can vary a lot in readings). You CAN use your bathroom scales with a 4ft long 4x4 and some blocking.. Pretty much EVERYONE has some bathroom scales which could be used. Although I have not tried digital scales, they might work as long as you can lower the tongue fast enough without dropping the tongue to get the reading. Read HERE for a real good write up WITH photos to show you how it is done. Even old fashioned mechanical scales cost only $12 HERE and a 6ft 4x4 might run you $20, it does work and anyone can do it. So for less than $40 you have a multi use scale with enough accuracy for what you need.
Gdetrailer 03/21/20 10:00am Travel Trailers
RE: Manufacturers saving a few cents on wire

My comments in blue.. You've gone to the other extreme and it just adds to the confusion. Voltage drop is a product of wire resistance (it's gauge), wire length, and how much current you try and push though it. While you are technically correct, you are also omitting some facts. 12V systems are not the same as 120V systems. 12V systems have a very small range of acceptable voltage, 120V systems have a MUCH larger range of acceptable voltage. 120V systems acceptable voltage range is 108V - 135V, a range of 27V. 12V systems have a acceptable voltage range of 10.5V for a dead battery to 14.4-14.8V for max charging voltage. A range of only 4.3V! With a fully charged battery at rest you have 12.8V, three stage chargers use 13.2V as a "maintenance" charge which ONLY takes care of the self discharge of the battery, it does not recharge a depleted battery at 13.2V unless you are OK with a few milliamps of charge which would take weeks to months if at all to recharge.. To get some sort of meaningful charge rate you need 13.8V AT THE BATTERY and even that is only going to net you a few amps. Net result in any case is a severely discharged battery that never gets fully charged and severely reduces the life of said battery! Ever wonder why many folks get on the forum whining about constantly having bad battery issues? Yeah, this IS the reason, they are KILLING the batteries by UNDER CHARGING. Your size is great if you want to charge at 100amps/hour. Wrong, anyone with a modern multistage converter from 30A and higher CAN BENEFIT by upsizing the wire size well above what those 120V wire charts say. For the rest of us a 10amp/hour rate is more than adequate when plugged into shore power overnight. Wrong again. You are making bad assumptions, it is well known for BEST battery LIFE, it IS ALWAYS BEST TO RECHARGE THE BATTERY BACK TO FULL OR NEAR FULL AS SOON AS POSSIBLE. Trickle charging or even a 10Ahr recharge is not going to provide best battery life. I guess max battery life for you not much of a priority, must be nice to replace batteries often.. I easily get 10-11 yrs out of my batteries, they are not cheap to replace so care and feeding them is a priority to me. Just for the record any charging voltage over 13.5 will charge the battery. Wrong again, you NEED 13.8V AT THE BATTERY to effectively charge quickly. Even old school mechanical auto alternator regulators were SET to 13.8V, if you found one that was not 13.8 you either adjusted it or replaced it with an electronic regulator.. Anything less than 13.8V results in milliamps to perhaps a couple of amps depending on discharge depth. I will stand by my statement, GO LARGE OR DON'T BOTHER. In reality for the run lengths in some RVs which can easily be 40ft for both pos and neg 2ga, 1Ga or even 1/0ga is not excessive.
Gdetrailer 03/17/20 03:44pm Tech Issues
RE: Manufacturers saving a few cents on wire

Tell us what amp converter you have. With that, the length of the wire run (positive + negative) AND (an important AND) using a 3% voltage drop chart you can get the answer very quickly. https://www.westmarine.com/WestAdvisor/Marine-Wire-Size-And-Ampacity At 12V, 3% drop is WAY too much loss, period. Folks need to stop propagating this bad information, those charts simply cannot be applied to 12V, they are designed for 120V AND HIGHER where 3% IS NOTHING TO LOSE! Example, 14.4V at your converter results in .432V drop at 3% so now your batteries are only seeing 13.968V which is nothing more than a trickle charge! Using 3% chart WILL result in disappointing results. Nope, you NEED to be shooting way below 1% which in my eyes results in an unacceptable loss of .144V at 14.4V which your batteries will only see 14.256V.. I used 1/0 and have less than 6ft for both pos and negative between my converter and batteries.. Go BIG or don't bother, otherwise your converter is nothing more than a trickle charger after the wire eats up all of your voltage in heat loss. On edit.. Found an online voltage calculator which WILL show you real results, much better than a chart.. Plug in 14.4V and you can change the current and wire size along with length.. HERE
Gdetrailer 03/16/20 05:13pm Tech Issues
RE: The Coronavirus

For all the people pooh-poohing the coronavirus and insisting it's no big deal, were you aware of the fact that in Italy there aren't enough breathing machines to treat all of the seriously ill, and doctors there are literally triaging their patients and deciding who they will treat and who they will let die? Article from the ATLANTIC web site: The Extraordinary Decisions Facing Italian Doctors There are now simply too many patients for each one of them to receive adequate care. March 11, 2020 Yascha Mounk Two weeks ago, Italy had 322 confirmed cases of the coronavirus. At that point, doctors in the country’s hospitals could lavish significant attention on each stricken patient. One week ago, Italy had 2,502 cases of the virus, which causes the disease known as COVID-19. At that point, doctors in the country’s hospitals could still perform the most lifesaving functions by artificially ventilating patients who experienced acute breathing difficulties. Today, Italy has 10,149 cases of the coronavirus. There are now simply too many patients for each one of them to receive adequate care. Doctors and nurses are unable to tend to everybody They lack machines to ventilate all those gasping for air. Now the Italian College of Anesthesia, Analgesia, Resuscitation and Intensive Care (SIAARTI) has published guidelines for the criteria that doctors and nurses should follow in these extraordinary circumstances. The document begins by likening the moral choices facing Italian doctors to the forms of wartime triage that are required in the field of “catastrophe medicine.” Instead of providing intensive care to all patients who need it, its authors suggest, it may become necessary to follow “the most widely shared criteria regarding distributive justice and the appropriate allocation of limited health resources.” The principle they settle upon is utilitarian. “Informed by the principle of maximizing benefits for the largest number,” they suggest that “the allocation criteria need to guarantee that those patients with the highest chance of therapeutic success will retain access to intensive care.” The authors, who are medical doctors, then deduce a set of concrete recommendations for how to manage these impossible choices, including this: “It may become necessary to establish an age limit for access to intensive care.” Those who are too old to have a high likelihood of recovery, or who have too low a number of “life-years” left even if they should survive, will be left to die. This sounds cruel, but the alternative, the document argues, is no better. “In case of a total saturation of resources, maintaining the criterion of ‘first come, first served’ would amount to a decision to exclude late-arriving patients from access to intensive care.” In addition to age, doctors and nurses are also advised to take a patient’s overall state of health into account: “The presence of comorbidities needs to be carefully evaluated.” This is in part because early studies of the virus seem to suggest that patients with serious preexisting health conditions are significantly more likely to die. But it is also because patients in a worse state of overall health could require a greater share of scarce resources to survive: “What might be a relatively short treatment course in healthier people could be longer and more resource-consuming in the case of older or more fragile patients.” These guidelines apply even to patients who require intensive care for reasons other than the coronavirus, because they too make demands on the same scarce medical resources. As the document clarifies, “These criteria apply to all patients in intensive care, not just those infected with CoVid-19.” My academic training is in political and moral philosophy. I have spent countless hours in fancy seminar rooms discussing abstract moral dilemmas like the so-called trolley problem. If a train is barreling toward five innocent people who are tied to the tracks, and I could divert it by pulling the lever, but at the cost of killing an innocent bystander, should I do it? Part of the point of all those discussions was, supposedly, to help professionals make difficult moral choices in real-world circumstances. If you are an overworked nurse battling a novel disease under the most desperate circumstances, and you simply cannot treat everyone, however hard you try, whose life should you save? Despite those years of theory, I must admit that I have no moral judgment to make about the extraordinary document published by those brave Italian doctors. I have not the first clue whether they are recommending the right or the wrong thing. But if Italy is in an impossible position, the obligation facing the United States is very clear: To arrest the crisis before the impossible becomes necessary. This means that our political leaders, the heads of business and private associations, and every one of us need to work together to accomplish two things: Radically expand the capacity of the country’s intensive-care units. And start engaging in extreme forms of social distancing. Cancel everything. Now. I hate to inform you that IF one is put on "breathing machine" and it has nothing to do with being put under for surgery in your diatribe it IS WAY TOO LATE in the game. Obviously you have never had any experience of just what it means to be put on a "breathing machine". First, they must Intubate you.. I suggest you read up on it.. INTUBATION In a nutshell they will sedate you, then insert a breathing tube through your mouth, you WILL continue to be sedated as long as your are on the machine.. They will periodically remove the tube and gradually wake you to see if you respond, if not you go under again and again and again. After one or two weeks of little or no improvement they MUST do a Tracheal (IE PERMANENT) Intubation and you will be fully sedated until your body gives up.. I HAVE had to make the hard decision for my Mom nearly 9 yrs ago to not do the Tracheal. It was the most cruel and inhuman thing that the medical world can do for you.. Sedate permanently, live like a vegetable until your body organs quit, yeah that sure is a life. OR no permanent Trach they sedate to ease the pain of dying and you can hear everything around you but can't communicate or move you and withhold food/fluid and basically starve and dehydrate your body to the point the body poisons its' self. I live with these scars of seeing my Mom wither away on a Hospital bed for two weeks.. It is folks like you and the media outlets whipping up everyone in such a frenzy that you cannot find a sheet of toilet paper, bottled water, meats, milk, breads and much more in the stores right now. Yes, there will be a lot of folks get very sick, there will be a lot of folks who never get sick and yes there will be some that get sick and never recover.. But, we should never live our lives in fear of these things, we came into the world with nothing, we were never promised to live a long life, we leave this world with nothing from this Earth, our body's will return the dust that we came from. We should be willing to lend a hand even if it means giving up our life in the process, that is what life is about, not hoarding toilet paper.
Gdetrailer 03/13/20 06:20pm RVing with Disabilities and General Health Issues
RE: Thoughts on the 'need' factor of a main line surge protector

Seems a lot of people assume that their rigs would have been badly damaged if not for the fact that their EMS shut down. When actually, how many people camped at that exact site without any harm, and no nuisance disconnects? Like I said, those who have them were already convinced it was deadly out there and they just had to have that insurance policy. So these RV forum threads are heavily slanted so that it looks like the majority of the RV world has EMS. While I'm betting that is not the case at all, in fact just the opposite. Some things get cumulative damage. You won't see the damage for a while after multiple exposures to low voltage. However, if you feel that you won't benefit, feel free to not buy one. Those who want to protect their investment are free to use one. I won't plug in without mine. (Actually, I can't since mine is hard wired behind the breaker box.) But I won't be insulted if you choose not to. This breaks down into two camps. One camp points out what MAY happen and how. The other camp points out that it is a fairly rare phenomenon. Both camps are correct. Each user must decide for himself which camp he wants to join. Care to explain why billions of homes and businesses in the US, Canada, Mexico, the world don't have their electrical equipment burned down to the ground on a daily basis? Very few homes or businesses have any real surge protection or EMS and yet it is a very rare event. Once again, an overblown RV ONLY subject with a piece of expensive equipment DESIGNED for RV USE ONLY at a price only a die hard RV enthusiast is willing to shell out for and claim because they have such equipment they have never had any troubles.. Yes, accidents do happen with electric items but not as much as it is over hyped, sort of like the latest virus issue.. Gladly. Very few homes or businesses are traveling all over the country plugging in to electrical systems that they have no knowledge or control over. They also don't have lots and lots of RV's turning on their air conditioners all at the same time pulling voltage down. Most homes or businesses have a single solid electrical supply. If it wasn't solid, they would have had the electric company come out, or a private electrician, and MAKE it solid. Any other questions? Care to explain as to why the plant I worked at experienced not only a "brownout" on one phase for 30 minutes, then total power outage on all phases for several hrs with quite a few on/off cycles before the other phases failed, but yet ZERO loss of ANY equipment including HVAC, lighting, computer systems including several hundred servers, network switches, phone systems, industrial motors, industrial robots and anything else that was either plugged in or hard wired.. I have had servers that HAVE weathered these types of power outages and lived to serv again without a complaint and have done this for 14 yrs.. Yep, I said 14 yrs.. I just retired that server recently when it finally died of old age from not a power surge but a system board with lots of expired caps. Your operating on "FUD" (Fear, Uncertainty, Doubt).. I don't doubt that SOME campgrounds may have old infrastructure that is not up to everyone with their 50A beauty queens but in reality the ONLY way that you can honestly say that "device X" really works is if EVERYONE in the campground has a complete and massive failure of their electrical equipment at the same time AND YOURS and YOURS alone with this "device X" installed was the ONLY survivor. Basically nothing more than the "placebo" effect until you can come up with rock hard evidence to prove otherwise. If paying a price for "device X" makes you sleep better, then continue on, but in reality, a waste of money for 99.9% of the time. Carry on..
Gdetrailer 03/11/20 08:17pm Travel Trailers
RE: Thoughts on the 'need' factor of a main line surge protector

Seems a lot of people assume that their rigs would have been badly damaged if not for the fact that their EMS shut down. When actually, how many people camped at that exact site without any harm, and no nuisance disconnects? Like I said, those who have them were already convinced it was deadly out there and they just had to have that insurance policy. So these RV forum threads are heavily slanted so that it looks like the majority of the RV world has EMS. While I'm betting that is not the case at all, in fact just the opposite. Some things get cumulative damage. You won't see the damage for a while after multiple exposures to low voltage. However, if you feel that you won't benefit, feel free to not buy one. Those who want to protect their investment are free to use one. I won't plug in without mine. (Actually, I can't since mine is hard wired behind the breaker box.) But I won't be insulted if you choose not to. This breaks down into two camps. One camp points out what MAY happen and how. The other camp points out that it is a fairly rare phenomenon. Both camps are correct. Each user must decide for himself which camp he wants to join. Care to explain why billions of homes and businesses in the US, Canada, Mexico, the world don't have their electrical equipment burned down to the ground on a daily basis? Very few homes or businesses have any real surge protection or EMS and yet it is a very rare event. Once again, an overblown RV ONLY subject with a piece of expensive equipment DESIGNED for RV USE ONLY at a price only a die hard RV enthusiast is willing to shell out for and claim because they have such equipment they have never had any troubles.. Yes, accidents do happen with electric items but not as much as it is over hyped, sort of like the latest virus issue..
Gdetrailer 03/11/20 05:00pm Travel Trailers
RE: DIY battery cable supplier

Mex, that's a shame. I don't have any laptops laying around, I only deal with desktop PCs and have lots of used parts like motherboards (have a few nice micro ITX I3 system boards that are 6"x8" size) and processor, memory, HDs, keyboards and mice along with a few tower cases.. Don't have any extra Wifi cards or monitors.. Otherwise I would be happy to cobble up something for you..
Gdetrailer 03/09/20 04:28pm Tech Issues
RE: DIY battery cable supplier

Mex, glad to see you are back! Things have been rather boring and quiet around hear while you were absent..
Gdetrailer 03/08/20 05:12pm Tech Issues
RE: DIY battery cable supplier

Chum lee, McMasters good suggestion. I will look into them as well GDEtrailer Nice write up & pics. Great idea making your own lugs! I noticed those quality lugs can get up to the 5.00/pop! One pic looked like you sleeved that one end. You guys got me thinking! Thanks I sleeved the entire lug end to end, mainly because I had the copper tubing on hand which happened to be the right size to slip over the other copper tubing.. In reality, most likely not needed but made for an extremely sturdy lug that could withstand many more amps than the copper wire. Don't need solder pellets, I used good old rosin core solder for electronic/electrical work. This is not the place to use acid core or acid type flux. As long as you have good shiny copper the Rosin core solder will work perfectly fine, the solder will wick right up between the two copper sleeves and even the wire into the copper sleeve. The key here to soldering is to have clean copper surfaces before soldering. Give the inside of the copper pipe a good cleaning with sand paper or a small round wire brush. The trick to soldering my homemade lugs is to apply the heat to the outside of the lugs only, you will need a torch to get enough heat quick enough without melting the wire jacket. Applying the torch flame to the copper wire will oxidize the copper and solder will not flow between the wires. This is pretty much the same idea as sweating copper pipe connections , heat the outside of the pipe near the connection then press the solder to the joint and when the copper gets to the melting temp of the solder it will wick right into the pipe joint.. Rosin flux is not as aggressive of a cleaner as paste flux for water pipes so you must start with absolutely clean copper. Most paste fluxes for water pipes you have to wipe and remove the remaining flux after soldering or it will start corroding the copper.. With wire, you cannot remove all of the leftover flux and the more aggressive flux for water lines will over time corrode the copper wire.
Gdetrailer 03/08/20 05:09pm Tech Issues
RE: Level Travel Trailer

Sorry about the image sizes....I dragged them into Google Photos and didn't really look at the size. So here is the LONG and SHORT of it. I flipped the shank because when I put it at the top setting (before I flipped it) it was almost 2 to 3 inches in difference when I measured the front and back. After I flipped the shank and went up one notch that is what I got in the picture above and while it looks high on the hitch it actually measures even for the most part in the front and the back. The reason I was thinking about taking it back to the dealer, which is an hour away) is they got it so straight when I bought it (with my TV being a GMC Yukon Denali). The guy that hooked it up really knew his stuff and I was hoping to get him, but that might be a roll of the dice because the dealership is a big one. No big problem about image sizes, just alerting you that the forum software doesn't work well with pictures larger than 600 pixels wide and does not automatically resize them to fit properly. Hence the entire page of posts grows in width which then forces everyone to have to scroll side to side to read the entire text or view the pix. So, if I am reading this correctly, you started with the hitch 2 or 3 inches too high and flipping the shank reduced that to near level or slightly high, am I correct? If I am correct, the real fix IS a new shank which has more drop than the one you have. You need one bolt hole longer shank in the drop mode which would drop your tongue approx 1". This will put your setup in the ideal range of tongue slightly down. These shanks can be used to raise, lower or stay the same in height, yours appears to be very short with not many bolt holes to choose from. You need one that is a bit longer and will have more bolt holes.. IF I am not correct in my assumption and you were 2 or 3 inches too low before flipping the shank, you may need a different shank anyways which would give you the correct holes to get you slightly nose down. In some respects, if you were 2 or 3 inches nose down I would suggest running it there as long as you are not dragging the tongue. Will not hurt anything as long as the tongue jack is not dragging under normal driving. I would rather error on tongue low than tongue high, it is a safer place to be. I have always run tongue low on my trucks and trailers and the combination for me always is a stable tow.. I have even had to make emergency maneuvers several times at highway speeds to miss deer running in front of me.. Stomping on the brakes hard results in your tow vehicle front diving and your level or slightly above level tongue will now go well above level which now destabilizes your trailer..
Gdetrailer 03/08/20 04:00pm Travel Trailers
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