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 > Your search for posts made by 'GenoB' found 18 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Suburban Furnace Problem

I'm leaning towards the board. Just because your seeing 12vdc on the fan lead when its unplugged could mean a little leakage through the relay or circuit board but not enough connection to run the motor. Since you ran a direct wire from a good 12vdc and the motor ran has to lead back to the board.
GenoB 01/12/20 10:58am Tech Issues
Sylvania Microwave Oven - SC-11100

Out Convection over or Sylvania Microwave Oven started giving out 2 beeps at a time during the night and now won't accept anything on the keyboard., Every time we hit a button it give 2 beeps and nothing. If it just sits it gives random double beeps ? It is not working anymore. I tried powering down and restarting, no difference. However I kept it unplugged over night and the next morning it worked for about 15 seconds then went back into its 2 beeping mode ? I checked the door to make sure its locking ok and the light turns on and off when closing so that seems OK Looking on the internet it appears to be model # SylvaniaSC-11100 but we can't find the manual for it. I'm guessing it s circuit board ? Any Suggestions ?
GenoB 01/12/20 10:54am Tech Issues
RE: Odd thing happening.

I worked in the electronic security business for over 40 years. There are several types of motion detectors a) PIR - Passive Infrared going into alarm when a heat source makes a sudden change in front of it. Microwave energy can set it off by saturation to the circuit board if close enough. Also vibration on the surface it is mounted on can set it off as well b) Microwave - Goes into alarm when a solid object moves in front of it disturbing the received microwave energy. Another microwave source close by could set it off c) Ultrasonic - Sound waves bounce off of objects and it looks for a shift in the received sound waves when a person walks in front. This is not used much anymore because all kinds of factors would set them off. Not sure if microwaves would interfere with these * If your leaking that much microwave to set off a motion detector inside a nearby cabinet you need to look into this right away ... Try putting a piece of tin foil on the inside of the door and see if the microwave still sets if off, bet it doesn't .. that would indicate the microwave is leaking all over the place *** Referaing to the piece of tin foil on the door, I MEANT THE WOODEN DOOR WHERE THE MOTON SENSOR IS, NOT THE MICROWAVE DOOR
GenoB 01/10/20 10:59am Tech Issues
RE: Suburban Furnace Problem

I just went through a bunch of trouble shooting on a water heater in my RV. I'm a very good low voltage tech and worked tech support for many years for a electronic security mfg. However my experience with RV's are limited but I do suggest the following: 1) Connect one lead of your volt meter to a good known neg or ground source and set it for DC range around 12vdc 2) Since we know the sequent of the start up for a furnace, follow that with all the wires connected 3) Turn thermostat to heat and put the other lead of your meter to the motor pos+ lead and see if voltage is present. If so then why isn't the motorr moving ? Search that. If relay clicks, then what is feeding the relay common side ? See why there is no voltage coming across the relay contacts ? 4) If the motor starts then check both sides of the sail switches to see if they are working correctly. If OK then why isn't burner starting. 5) Ck pos+ leads to gas valve and see if there is voltage there, etc * Just follow the logic trail and see where it fails is my suggestion ...
GenoB 01/10/20 10:42am Tech Issues
RE: Suburban SW6 lights but drops out after 30+ seconds

Yeah I did the same thing, got side tracked by the 12 vdc present constant. I had taken a wire and applied 12 vdc to each coil and listened to the hard click and came to the concussing it was working OK and passed on that ... I had thought about checking resistance early on and didn't do it .... Should have ... lol Tanks for your help anyway, good advise...
GenoB 01/08/20 05:54pm Tech Issues
RE: Water pressure problem

All good suggestions ! Try to just remove the screen at each faucet and run the water without the end on and see if it comes rushing out. Every time I have had a low water issue in the rig and the pressure is good outside its been a clogged screen at the water inlet where the hose attaches to rig or at the faucet or the pressure regulator outside on the hose,
GenoB 01/07/20 09:07pm Tech Issues
RE: Fresh Tank Filling on City Water

Just a comment regarding fresh water tanks : I've been RVing since the early 90's with several different RV's types. In general here is how I use the internal water tanks when traveling (not when parked on city water) a) I never use the fresh water tank for cooking or drinking or brushing teeth b) I DO use the fresh water tank for washing dishes, showers, general wash basin uses, toilet, etc c) I keep the tank about 1/4 or less filled when stationary in RV park, more if needed when traveling. d) I put about a cap full of bleach when adding water to the tank to keep water from going rancid e) I do all my cooking and drinking with bottled water Just me personally, has worked well for me over the years. I don't like leaving a tank dry / empty, things dry up and crack, etc. Never had any problems with the tanks using these methods...
GenoB 01/07/20 08:59pm Tech Issues
RE: Suburban SW6 lights but drops out after 30+ seconds

**** Issue Resolved **** See earlier Posts ...
GenoB 01/07/20 07:54pm Tech Issues
RE: Suburban SW6 lights but drops out after 30+ seconds

Ummmmm... well food for thought isn't it ! I agree but my little Toy Hauler has always had about 12.5 vdc battery reading on my solar power regulator and when on shore power ? Same reading on my digital meter when checking wiring, etc.. Might be because of my old batteries perhaps ? Hasn't been an issue and when on solar panels I have power all evening (never use propane heater tho) and recharge during the day. Also have a generator if needed and always starts so .... I'm not sure ?
GenoB 01/07/20 07:48pm Tech Issues
RE: Suburban SW6 lights but drops out after 30+ seconds

**** Problem Solved **** I got to thinking about what could be starving the flame of gas and decided to look harder at the gas valve. I used my digital meter to check the resistance on each coil and found one was 45 ohms and the other had over a Meg ohms of resistance. Looking up the specs I found a good coil is between 30 and 50 ohms. Taking two wires from my battery I attached them to each coil separately and found one worked fine, the other would lock in but after about 30 seconds it would release and then go right back on. A thermal short !!! I suspect the coil would heat up and a wire inside would disconnect, opening the coil and letting the valve close. Then right away contact as it cooled off and open the valve again. Over and over again ! Bought 2 new coils at about $25 and guess what ! WORKS GREAT ! Intermittent problems as ALWAYS the hardest to figure out fine. Thanks for all your help on this, I learned a lot ! Geno B-
GenoB 01/07/20 05:42pm Tech Issues
RE: Suburban SW6 lights but drops out after 30+ seconds

http://www.laserworks.biz/Personal/Burner_Light.jpg
GenoB 01/07/20 12:44pm Tech Issues
RE: Suburban SW6 lights but drops out after 30+ seconds

http://www.laserworks.biz/Personal/Water_Heater.jpg
GenoB 01/07/20 12:21pm Tech Issues
RE: Suburban SW6 lights but drops out after 30+ seconds

I have a feeling these last two posts may be the issue then. a) I scrapped the tube where the gas burins, lightly with a brush and blew out with air nossle. Lots of **** came out. I did not do anything to the little orface at the begging of the round gas tube so if I clean the round burner tube where the flame is, will that help ? b) It appears to vent out the front and that is clear. I will look into burner tube to see how that looks at the back.
GenoB 01/07/20 11:06am Tech Issues
RE: Suburban SW6 lights but drops out after 30+ seconds

To answer several posts 1) Other gas usage - No difference. I have turned on all 3 burners on stove and run the heater and no difference when I start the water heater 2) I like this thermoset idea, I don't see it anywhere except the one behind the black rubber reset button and I have checked that, it stays 12vdc on top and bottom of reset button 3) Well the orface is rusty looking and rough. I did scrape it a bit and blow it out with a air hose. Think this could still be the issue ? I should take it out and soak it win alcohol then air dry it and put back in ? This doesn't seem logical to disrupt the flame but I'll listen to the experts and try this today ? 4) Flame looks good, mostly blue with some yellow. It seems to slowly shut down when the flame it going out, sometimes I hear the igniter going off just before the flame goes out ?
GenoB 01/07/20 09:13am Tech Issues
RE: Suburban SW6 lights but drops out after 30+ seconds

UPDATE Sometimes it will run for a couple minutes before shutting off. Then fire right back up. After it does this a couple times it has a hard time lighting until I shut if off and wait a min then it starts right up again ?
GenoB 01/06/20 08:39pm Tech Issues
RE: Suburban SW6 lights but drops out after 30+ seconds

Thanks for your reply ! Well I replaced the 2 prong igniter because of just that thought. I believe the sensor is in the igniter but I am no expect, just seems logical, I see no other sensor wires or devices. Problem with all this is the 12vdc going to the gas valve coils are still on and active when the burner shuts off and stays on for about 5 seconds. So I don't think it an electrical thing ? but this is new to me, I'm an electronics tech and have worked on logic systems in the past. The burner just stops for no apparent reason ? I there anything in the gas valve that might shut off if the propane pressure was to drop ? Like if the propane regualor is still not putting out enough ? I did replace it but the pressure on the secondary side can be held by my finger
GenoB 01/06/20 08:26pm Tech Issues
RE: Suburban SW6 lights but drops out after 30+ seconds

RV shop had a what looked like an official tester box with simulating switches and leds. I checked to make sure it simulated the fire sensor and he said it did
GenoB 01/06/20 05:50pm Tech Issues
Suburban SW6 lights but drops out after 30+ seconds

I'm a pretty good troubleshooter but this one has me going. My 10 year old water heater has been working fine but now will only light and run for approx 30 seconds + or - a few seconds. a) Normal sequence to start up, 5 second wait, valve actuates, igniter lights gas, runs for 30 sec b) I replaced the propane regulator incase the gas was dropping out or weak c) Replace the igniter thinking it may not be sensing the flame is there (2 pin) d) Checked the gas valve solenoids using 12vdc, they both work strong and click hard e) While the flame is working, there is 12vdc present at the gas valve. When it drops out there is still 12 vdc present at the gas valve. Sounds like gas is shutting off inside valve but its not because of electrical shutting off ? f) Took main circuit board to RV shop and it tested OK g) Cleaned and checked all electrical connections on gas valve and main circuit board. h) DC power is always 12.5vdc i) Disconnected gas line from gas valve and at regulator and blew out with 30 psi air compressor, thinking oil might be blocking lines ? j) There is no lp switch over, single tank with new regulator. I have tried another lp gas tank, same thing I give up. I still think its a gas issue, either weak or blocked or the gas valve has some kind of mechanical shut off perhaps when gas is low pressure or it is just bad ? I don't think its going to be electrical since the gas valve still had 12vdc when iit shuts down. sometimes it will go right into the start up sequence after the flame goes out and relight immediately for a short time ? Any ideas ?
GenoB 01/06/20 03:57pm Tech Issues
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