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 > Your search for posts made by 'Gjac' found 383 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: RV APP

I use the Copilot RV app. I bought it years ago for $6.99 on sale. You can set the height of your RV to avoid low bridges and it will also allow you to avoid tunnels where propane is restricted. It is a stand alone system because the maps are downloaded to your phone so you don't need cell towers. When I use the tow car I just change the vehicle profile to car. Much better and cheaper than my previous Garmin's. You can put it on your IPad also if you want a bigger screen.
Gjac 10/24/21 07:19am Technology Corner
RE: plastic sky light over shower

A dome will shed rain water, a flat piece of Lexan or acrylic will collect water once you put the caulking over the screw heads. Green mold will collect there unless you build a curved dam on each end of the flat plastic sheet and wrap it over the dam so the center is higher than the edges.
Gjac 10/24/21 06:35am Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Gasser guys and gals ...why not a diesel ?

....I’ve seen some people state that they have avoided a diesel .... why so ? I have avoided a diesel for several reasons some previously stated. I don't want a large 40 ft MH, ideally I would want the shortest Class A or C available. I am more of a traveler rather than a camper in on spot for a while. If you buy a Gas chassis from 24-39 ft they have the same HP engine. In diesel MH's the shorter they are the the less HP they have. Also it is hard to compare gas MH's to diesel MH's because of the weight variance. For example my friend has a 38 ft Dutch Star with a 8.3 Cummins engine his MH weighs over 30k lbs my old 454 gas MH weighs about 15k lbs fully loaded for travel. When I added about 80 more HP with headers, FF muffler, and a CAI I could pass him on long hills, at 230 hp I could not keep up with him but at a little over 300 HP I could pass him as well as my other friends with DP's. A 26 ft gas MH with a 362HP engine will have better performance than most DPs, because it is HP to weight that dictates performance. I think the new 7.3 Ford engines in a short A or C will be even better than most diesels and older gas models for that matter. Now if I was going to full time a DP would be in order and I would take the performance hit, but at my age that won't happen.
Gjac 10/23/21 09:31am Class A Motorhomes
RE: WINDSHIELDS ... for older Class As ? ......

I have replaced my windshields 4 times over the years. Just called my insurance company and they found a place for me to get it replaced even away from home all with 0 deductible. I think in most states it is illegal to drive with a cracked windshield. Check with your insurance company.
Gjac 10/23/21 08:51am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Power "vampire" on coach batteries

I would disconnect the neg battery terminal and set your muti meter to 10 amps with one lead on the post and one lead on the cable. This will tell you what your parasitic draw is. If over a couple of amps something is left on . If you do this simple test first and post what your draw is you will solve your problem. As a data point my parasitic draw on my chassis battery is .4amps. If less than 1 amp I would check the cells in your battery. couple of amps is WAY to high. if everything is off, draw should be on the order of 0.01A or less. Even 0.4A is going to discharge a battery bank faster than you want. That's about 10Ah/day As I said in my post if you have a couple of amps draw something is left on. However I misplaced a decimal on my parasitic draw, it should read .04 amps or 40 milliamps. On a newer MH with radio, satellite ,GPS systems, Wifi and other electrical stuff the draw will be higher. For OP's batteries to go dead in 10 days something is left on or batteries are bad. If after you check the draw and find it more than an amp or two you can then go to your 12v fuse box and start pulling fuses one at a time to see which one reduces the draw.
Gjac 10/23/21 08:44am Tech Issues
RE: Power "vampire" on coach batteries

I would disconnect the neg battery terminal and set your muti meter to 10 amps with one lead on the post and one lead on the cable. This will tell you what your parasitic draw is. If over a couple of amps something is left on . If you do this simple test first and post what your draw is you will solve your problem. As a data point my parasitic draw on my chassis battery is .4amps. If less than 1 amp I would check the cells in your battery.
Gjac 10/22/21 07:59pm Tech Issues
RE: Let’s hear your best MPG and driving style ?

The best way to increase your fuel mileage is to tow another vehicle. For a negligible affect on my fuel mileage I can get two vehicles from point A to point B by using almost the same amount of fuel. Basically this doubles my effective mileage. :B I guess that is one way to rationalize our poor MPG. The way I rationalize it is my tow car gets 40 mpgs and my MH gets 8.7 towing my car from point A to point B but I usually put twice as many miles on my tow car as my MH just exploring the surrounding area. This increases my total MPG to 23 MPG.
Gjac 10/22/21 12:19pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Loft Bed Doesn’t move

After you check the simple things as suggested and it still does not move, I would check to see if 12v is getting to the motor.
Gjac 10/22/21 12:04pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Class A quality

In your example from a Flair to a Bounder I think they come off the same line made by the same people and same production processes. I don't really believe the Bounder at $40k more uses better FG or stronger adhesives to prevent delamination, better chassis parts to improve the ride or better appliances. I think the difference in price would be things that the Flair doesn't have like a fireplace, outdoor TV or kitchen, full body paint etc. If these things are not that important to you I would rather get the Flair and put the money into fixing the Mfg's defects and customizing the MH the way I want it. Just because you pay $40k more for a MH doesn't mean you will have less problems to fix.
Gjac 10/22/21 11:59am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Changing a tire yourself

I would think a 16 in tire on a Class C is much easier to change than a 19.5 or 22.5 in tire on a Class A. I can tell you for some reason they do get heavier over time. I now have to use a breaker bar under the tire to lift it off of the studs. I have only had to do it in my driveway to change brakes, hoses etc never on the road. Hydraulic jacks do make the job easier.
Gjac 10/22/21 09:26am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Tow bar options & instillation advice

I also have installed a Demco base plate and tow bar. It has about 100k miles on the bar now. I have taken it apart about 3 times since 2005 and cleaned it and it still works great. My only suggestion, which is just a personal preference for peace of mind is to get the steel version rated at 10,000 lbs. Most of the Al versions at the time I bought mine were only rated at 6500 lbs. It is heavier than the Al versions but rated much higher. I only remove it in the wintertime so weight is not a problem to me. There have been some early posts on here about the Al Blue Ox failing and a personal friend of mine lost his tow car also with his Al Blue Ox, that is what drove my decision. I'm sure by now any design flaws have been worked out, just feel better with a higher rated tow bar.
Gjac 10/22/21 09:10am Dinghy Towing
RE: Dry Camping Shower Valve Replacement

A much simpler way to use less water and not get cold water when adjusting the shower temperature is to just turn WH on for 15 mins(in summer) and use just the hot water to shower. There is no mixing required. In fall when temps are cooler I run it for 20 mins then shut it off. On very hot 90 plus summer days and long hot blacktop hiways travel water temps are warmer in FW tank than in insulated WH tank and I just shower with lukewarm water. For me FW is more limiting than battery power when dry camping. That might work with a 2 dial valve assembly, but mine cycles back to cold when you turn it on and vice versa. And agreed. I bring along a DW and 2 daughters. FW is our biggest limiting factor for dry camping by a hefty margin. If you just turn on hot water valve how does cold water enter?
Gjac 10/22/21 08:37am Tech Issues
RE: delamination issue on side of TT, need suggestions

Looks good.
Gjac 10/22/21 08:35am General RVing Issues
RE: delamination issue on side of TT, need suggestions

Sounds like you have a good plan, the only thing I would add is if you use epoxy resin make sure the area is dry first. Acetone will help the drying process. It is a solvent and will flash off quickly removing the moisture. The second think I would add is when I did mine and it was a much larger area than yours, I used several car jacks and plywood caul plates to apply pressure against the side of a brick building. The spring suspension ont the MH was not enough to react the pressure from the car jacks. In retrospect it would have been more stable if the hydraulic jacks were down. Do you know what the substrate is under the delamination? If it is luan and dry rather than particle board and you can push it in with your fingers you should be fine. If you think moisture is still there polyurethane glue will react with moisture and still bond well where as epoxy won't. Good Luck on your project.
Gjac 10/18/21 08:46am General RVing Issues
RE: Dry Camping Shower Valve Replacement

A much simpler way to use less water and not get cold water when adjusting the shower temperature is to just turn WH on for 15 mins(in summer) and use just the hot water to shower. There is no mixing required. In fall when temps are cooler I run it for 20 mins then shut it off. On very hot 90 plus summer days and long hot blacktop hiways travel water temps are warmer in FW tank than in insulated WH tank and I just shower with lukewarm water. For me FW is more limiting than battery power when dry camping.
Gjac 10/14/21 06:43am Tech Issues
RE: suggestion for cargo floor liner

I think it would depend upon what you want to store in it. If it is a thermoplastic rotocast storage bay like most bays they are not very strong,(mine are less than 1/8 in thick) I would put ply wood on the floors to reinforce and distribute the weight better. I would worry more about heavy stuff bouncing around on that thermoplastic bay rather than sliding, however the plywood would have more friction than the smooth plastic.
Gjac 10/14/21 06:02am General RVing Issues
RE: Kohler 5CKM21 no compression in both cylinders

Sad.. Sorry to hear this. But, I can't blame the shops for not wanting to work on it while installed in the MH. Way to difficult to work on when you have extremely limited access. Finding a knowledgeable and good small engine tech isn't easy either and the good ones are up to their eyeballs in work and don't come cheap. Typically many shops will want the entire gen assy to be removed form the RV, if you had to pay someone to do that plus the cost to reinstall it would get even more expensive to the point it is cheaper to replace with new or like a lot of folks have done, use a portable gen instead. I don’t blame them either just removing the shrouds is a chore. Maybe the next owner can put a 4000 watt HF one in, they are on sale now for $ 469.
Gjac 09/28/21 08:43am Tech Issues
RE: Kohler 5CKM21 no compression in both cylinders

Nearest I can tell is it has 4 bolts mounted to 4 rubber isolators and has to come up and out of the rear cap. If I was going to keep it I probably would pull it out and replace it with a HF one. I rarely use it anyways only to exercise it and heat something up in the MW or power house refers during power outages.
Gjac 09/28/21 08:37am Tech Issues
RE: Kohler 5CKM21 no compression in both cylinders

Removed the oil from pistons and checked compression. Still no compression. I guess the problem lies in either broken teeth on the cam shaft or worn lobes. At any rate I am not about to pull the genset and tear it apart to replace the cam especially when the part is obsolete. I talked to 3 techs from Kohler which had no direct knowledge of the genset and offered little help, but all thought it was a stuck valve issue. Called three generator repair shops and one mobile repair place but no one would work on a genset in an RV. Very difficult to get to. So I will just sell the MH as is like my wife has been wanting and just hotel it.
Gjac 09/27/21 12:36pm Tech Issues
RE: Steering stabilizers

I bought my MH with Steer safe already installed, and I always thought it was great because I could drive the MH with one hand even when trucks passed me. Several years ago I had a front end failure and had to drive home from Ohio without it. I noticed no difference in the handling of the MH. I still drove it with one had even with passing trucks. I think a good front end alignment with a positive caster, and the right weight distribution where each tire carries the same load will have a much greater influence in the handling
Gjac 09/26/21 07:04am Class A Motorhomes
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