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 > Your search for posts made by 'Gjac' found 331 matches.

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RE: 3/4 or 1' butyl tape?

My 2013 trailer has lots of butyl shrinkage. Every single compartment on the trailer i can find cracks. My friend has a 2004 weekend warrior. Never maintains a thing. Zero leaks. No major cracks in the butyl tape. Did they adjust the formula of the tape? Are you sure they used Butyl? My son's windows seals are all cracking in his FG cap and starting too leak. When I looked real close it was some kind on a foam rubber gasket.
Gjac 10/14/20 08:49pm Tech Issues
RE: Fridge/Freezer door opening while driving

From what you are describing it sounds like your seal has slightly compressed over the years. It sounds similar to my Norcold latch. Mine can be adjusted in or out. If you move the latch in it will put more spring in the plastic latch which makes it catch better. If your seal is compressed somewhat and a dollar bill slips out easily you can remove some plastic material from the base of the latch. I had to remove about .050 off the base of mine to get a tight seal. Also check to see if your return spring in the handle is in place and has not lost tension. When mine broke the door would shake open on ruff roads.
Gjac 10/13/20 04:06pm Tech Issues
RE: Thor Axis 24.1

Note that the axis is built on the E450 chassis (albeit the bare chassis rather than the cutaway version), so doesn't have as much of a difference there as you might at first expect. That's not to say your observations of foot room, space, etc. are incorrect; however, it's also quite possible that there are some class C motorhomes with mostly similar features in those areas. All, or practically all, other gas class A's are built on the F53 motorhome chassis, which has a few more differences. I think even with the new engine the F53 gets a higher power tune/setup; I know for sure it was a more powerful version with the V10. There are other chassis differences as well. The 2021 Axis I looked at was on a E350 chassis with the new 7.3 V8 eng. Defiantly much more room for your feet in the drivers area compared to the E350 Class C's with the V-10. A very small dog house which looks to me very difficult to work on the eng or get to the chassis battery. From what I see most of these smaller C's get about 10 mpgs with the V-10's don't know if 45 more HP in the newer eng will do better but should be much better performance on hills.
Gjac 10/13/20 10:17am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Norcold N811 fridge-no power

Another thing to try is the other end of that eyebrow ribbon where it attaches to the control board. When mine would not work on electric I removed that harness connector and cleaned the contacts with a pencil eraser and reconnected the harness and all was well again. If that does not help I would remove the control board and look at the back side and see if you see any burned tracks in the solder tracks if so it might be the control board.
Gjac 10/13/20 09:58am Tech Issues
RE: Best bang for the buck Golf Cart battery

I think for the average user that just camps 3 months out of the year with minimal battery requirements you can go wrong with Sam's Club batteries. Mine are 13 years old and I paid $74 dollars apiece. I just camp don't watch TV or play on the internet(no service where I dry camp). I thought I would have to replace them this year but after equalizing them I think I will probably get a few more years out of them. Some on here full time so they have more electrical demands, so maybe spending $600 for Li or SiO2 is warranted but not for my usage. I think my Sam's club were Duracell's some have reported that Costco switched to Interstate and the reviews were not good. Battery plus also sells Duracell's so that is another option.
Gjac 10/12/20 08:35pm Tech Issues
RE: Thor Axis 24.1

x2 thor doesn,t have a good rep. Does Forest River have a better rep?
Gjac 10/12/20 03:30pm Class A Motorhomes
Thor Axis 24.1

I wasn't sure if this belongs here or in the Class C section. But while looking for short Class C's (24 ft) I noticed a new Axis 24.1 which is only 7 ins longer than the C's I was looking at. It also was a few ins less in height, a longer WB, 188 ins vs 159 ins for the C's, more storage, more water and more CCC. The drivers area had better room than the Ford 350 or 450 chassis and about the same as the sprinter chassis. I was also $10k cheaper than the Sprinter class C's with much more HP(350 vs 190).The only difficulty looked to be getting to the engine to change plugs, filter etc. Has anyone purchased this model? Are there any regrets or downsides I am not seeing.
Gjac 10/12/20 01:42pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Is CG info available from MFG's

Why is this CG important? Read the previous post to paul. CG is only important when you don't know actual axle weights. Which you can see from my previous posts I have not been able to find on web sites or on stickers inside the MHs or asking the dealers. If you at least know where the CG is in front of the rear axle you can at least get a idea of the weight distribution. Most on here with 24 ft C's say their front end is too light and causes handling issues and have added suspension upgrades to improve handing.
Gjac 10/12/20 01:23pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: 3/4 or 1' butyl tape?

I like the black Butyl tape 3/4 in wide because my window trim is black. Also the tape is a little firmer and less sticky than the white tape, but I have used both and both work. After you clean the old tape off dry fit the window without the inside retainer frame and make sure the cutout in the wall is even around the frame itself, you may have to put extra tape in areas where the opening is too large or cut out is uneven. The window will shift down due to the movement of the sidewalls and vibrations on rough roads so putting spacers at the bottom of the side wall sill will prevent the downward shift causing a leak in several years. If you install it correctly the seal will last for years because the tape will stay pliable. The two windows that I had the most problems with were for leaks were the driver and passenger windows. The ones in the rear have never leaked in 25 years of service.
Gjac 10/10/20 09:10am Tech Issues
RE: Is CG info available from MFG's

Somewhere on the interwebs there is a formula for overall length versus wheelbase that is supposed to suggest how well the vehicle will track. Someone has decided that there is a particular ratio that is desirable. I don't know how valid it is or how one would easily decide what is good. It might be worth searching for it and see if it seems reasonable. If you had CG location, I don't know how you make a valid decision as to whether or not it was good or bad. What you are referring to is the WB/L ratio. You divide the WB in ins to overall length in ins to get the ratio. For example a 24 ft MH would have a WB usually of 159 ins and an overall length of 288 in. That would yield a ratio of .55 or 55% which is suppose to be very good(More than 50%). However many on here report the front end is too light as previous posters have noted which causes handling issues. I was after actual axle weights which I have not found on mfg web sites or on the MH I was interested in. Knowing the CG only helps to estimate the weight distribution.
Gjac 10/09/20 12:47pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Is CG info available from MFG's

My Jayco Redhawk 22J has the required yellow sticker that gives the CCC of the RV. It also has a sticker with the recommended air pressure for the front and rear tires, plus gross axle weights. It also has several white stickers that give various load information. I can't speak for other Class C's. If I were interested in any advertised Class C's, I'd ask the dealer/owner for a picture of any information stickers on the door post on the drivers. There will always be a yellow one. It's required by law. The weight/carrying capacity sticker in my RV lists the four individual wheel weights as manufactured. I don't know if they all do, but it's worth checking. I have seen the total weight UVW, but not individual actual axle weights just just the axle weight ratings. I have not seen this listed on the web sites which is what I am really trying to find. When I call the sales team they don't know either, they just want to tell me about the outdoor entertainment center or indoor fireplace which I could care less about.. I just looked at three new 24 ft Class C’s. Thor Quantum , Thor Daybreak, and a Forester on the Mersades chassis. All three were nice but no stickers on door jam showing actual weights only Gawr. Camping world had no scale either. I guess the best way is to ask on here if anyone has weighed their front and rear axles on a MH one was considering. Stopped at three dealerships non had scales.
Gjac 10/07/20 12:47pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Wanderlust

Did you weigh the front and rear axle yet? If so post the weights here and it may help you diagnose your problem. You don't want to just throw parts at it in hopes that someone else's fix will work.
Gjac 10/02/20 07:33am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Is CG info available from MFG's

Our Phoenix Cruiser is only 9'-10" to the top of the roof a/c unit. The center of gravity must be lower yet from having only a 1.5" step up from the cab floor to the house floor. For an E350 chassis, the center of gravity is about as low as you can get without it being a class "B". BUT....... I feel "weight distribution" along with the relationship between the wheel base and the over-all length.....that is where a lot of the "bad action" originates from. Yes I think you are right. I think if each tire carries the same load you have good weight distribution. The problem is trying to get this info before your buy your MH. It seems like they put less info today on their web site than they did 10-15 years ago. For example if the unit has a GVWR of 12,500 lbs and the UVW is 9000lbs with actual weight of the front axle of 3000 lbs and rear of 6000 lbs that should be a good riding MH. I think it becomes more critical in these shorter MH's(24ft). Most seem to have a WB of 159 ins so the only other discriminator is the weight distribution. One would hate to add 500 lbs of depleted uranium to the front end to prevent the front from being too light.
Gjac 10/01/20 06:13am Class C Motorhomes
RE: 1995 Fleetwood Flair 22ft

It is a Chevy chassis with a 454 engine. Here is the id. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ZHyWqaQaWuhZB_mcymCJ9d-vgCxU0YaS/view?usp=sharing I can't see your image, just look at your rear brakes, I am guessing they are drum brakes because your chassis is light at 22 ft. Are they Drum brakes? Have you done brake jobs on your cars before?
Gjac 09/29/20 04:26pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: 1995 Fleetwood Flair 22ft

Start by telling us what chassis you have. If it is a Chevy for example have the parts guys look up 1994 p-30 and your brake pads rotors and or drums will be available. Drain old brake fluid out and put in new fluid, grease calipers at the same time. If you do this on your cars you can do it on your MH. If you never did it on your cars take it to a shop you trust.
Gjac 09/29/20 05:45am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Class A V-10 mileage

I have driven the same MH in my signature a little over 100,000 miles and have tracked every fill up over the last 15 years manually. I tow a 2500lb Toyota Corolla most of the time. I don't notice any MPG difference towing vs not towing. Added headers and FF muffler. No difference. Added CAI sans cat. No difference. Advanced base timing from 4 degrees BTC to 9. Slight difference. Each mod improved performance but not MPG. Performance went from 19 sec to go from 40-60 mph down to 12 secs. Went from down shifting at the slightest hill to staying in high gear in all but steep hills out west. There were several things that I observed that increased my MPG slightly. Keeping my speed between 55 on backroads and 62 on the highway increased mpg from 8 to 8.5 . Adding a vacuum gauge and keeping vacuum above 10 in HG. Also increasing speed when approaching a hill then letting off the throttle to keep it in high gear. I know when it will shift by watching the vacuum gauge. This increased my mpg to 8.7 mpg. Having said all that I like the increased performance over the mpg gains.
Gjac 09/29/20 05:34am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Is CG info available from MFG's

The weight/carrying capacity sticker in my RV lists the four individual wheel weights as manufactured. I don't know if they all do, but it's worth checking. I have seen the total weight UVW, but not individual actual axle weights just just the axle weight ratings. I have not seen this listed on the web sites which is what I am really trying to find. When I call the sales team they don't know either, they just want to tell me about the outdoor entertainment center or indoor fireplace which I could care less about.
Gjac 09/28/20 08:23pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: House batteries

What type of batteries do you have now? How old are they? What converter do you have and how many amps does it charge? It is hard to tell if your batteries are good or bad without knowing a few things about your system. They maybe fine. To check you can have them load tested for free at any auto parts store. Or fully charge them hit the battery disconnect switch and they should still read about 12.6V a week or so later.
Gjac 09/27/20 09:11pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Thinking about buying a class c

The MH is way over priced at $14k for a 24 year old MH. It should sell for $5-6K according to Nada.
Gjac 09/27/20 08:57pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Is CG info available from MFG's

This is a great program to work out the loading of your RV and axle weights. We used this to work out where to place our motorbike and all the heavy things we carried when away for 3 months at a time. http://lda2.svtech.co.uk http://lda2.svtech.co.uk/design?type=type1 for an RV These are interesting formulas but again you have to know the axle weights to plug into the formula. This is good after you buy the MH and get it weighed but does not help in determining what MH has the best weight distribution for better handling without having to add suspension upgrades to make it ride better.
Gjac 09/27/20 08:46pm Class C Motorhomes
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