RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Search

RV Blog

  |  

RV Sales

  |  

Campgrounds

  |  

RV Parks

  |  

RV Club

  |  

RV Buyers Guide

  |  

Roadside Assistance

  |  

Extended Service Plan

  |  

RV Travel Assistance

  |  

RV Credit Card

  |  

RV Loans

Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Posting Help and Support  |  Contact  



Open Roads Forum  >  Search the Forums

 > Your search for posts made by 'HMS Beagle' found 72 matches.

Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 4  
Prev  |  Next
  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Anyone with 12v Air Conditioning Experience?

Also why my boat was wired 24V for everything that possibly could be. I probably saved 300 lbs in wire just from that.
HMS Beagle 08/30/21 07:17pm Truck Campers
RE: Anyone with 12v Air Conditioning Experience?

I think the Chinese codes are suspect. 8 ga AWG wire has 0.62 ohms/1000 ft. if of good quality. 18" of wire therefore has only 0.0009 ohms which doesn't sound like much. At 400A that is still only 0.37V drop which also doesn't sound like much. But it will dissipate 149 watts which sounds like one hellava lot! In fact it will do that for only a very short few seconds before the insulation melts and it is red hot. Wires are often sized for voltage drop, as apparently here, but there are also ampacity specs based on insulation temperature ratings, and #8 is typically 80 amps unless a very special high temp insulation - but never 400 amps! So based on voltage drop of 3% - a typical metric for battery powered systems, #8 is fine because the run is so short, but based on ampacity you need at least 3/0, which is independent of run length.
HMS Beagle 08/30/21 03:50pm Truck Campers
RE: Anyone with 12v Air Conditioning Experience?

You'll need a very hefty set of cables to get 120 amps all the way up to the roof. The Dometic 2000 uses about 40A max, so still big cables but certainly manageable. #6 would be enough.
HMS Beagle 08/29/21 09:00am Truck Campers
RE: Anyone with 12v Air Conditioning Experience?

Here is an interesting test. Granted, it was done in ideal conditions but still quite impressive. The 100ah Victron LiFePo4 battery lasted for 2 hours and 40 minutes. They are supposedly going to do an outdoor test tomorrow. https://youtu.be/2LL7lE4wXvs Interesting test, even if they presenter is completely clueless on just about every aspect of it. Since it was in a closed room with the thermostat set below ambient, it would have run the whole time without cycling (and would be heating the room a bit). I doubt it would use much more outside in hot temps, the high side pressure will increase just a bit. If you added 400 watts of solar you could keep it going pretty much as long as the sun shines.
HMS Beagle 08/28/21 09:17am Truck Campers
RE: Dually swing out Jack not locking into position?

WD40 will ge gone in a couple of weeks. If you have it apart, clean it up and grease it with some heavy grease.
HMS Beagle 08/26/21 01:54pm Truck Campers
RE: What is your overall length with TC?

24' Ford F350 supercab 8' bed Bigfoot 10.4. Another 2.5 with the motorcycle on the front.
HMS Beagle 08/26/21 09:08am Truck Campers
RE: Do pass-through windows leak?

Bigfoot 10.4, made the pass through boot out of foam (no covering even) and never leaked.
HMS Beagle 08/25/21 09:48am Truck Campers
RE: Anyone with 12v Air Conditioning Experience?

Why not the Dometic RTX 2000? It is one large less than the Nomadic. Less current draw, less cooling too but probably enough for N. Ca. at 7K BTU. As far as the cost goes, if you don't already have a large capacity inverter (and it has to have enough surge capacity to start an AC compressor) then that gets added to the cost of the install. I've seen mini splits on RVs, but I've yet to see one that didn't look like the guy forgot and left his Walmart shopping on the bumper. The mini split market is homes, they take no pains to make it compact.
HMS Beagle 08/16/21 02:38pm Truck Campers
RE: Resealing a vent from the top vs R&R

Assuming proper surface prep, dicor lasts for decades. It should never crack, peal or develop any leaks. Again, it requires proper surface prep. And yet, I've seen multiple cases of failure within 2 years, on factory sealing jobs. It cracks at the edge of the flange were there is guaranteed to be movement. If it were really good for decades, there would not be dozens of threads on this forum about resealing your Dicor. Dicor is used only when price is the issue. Pouring it on top of a flange is at best a temporary benefit, and can be a longer term liability. This material is never used on yachts, where cost is less of an issue and sealing all important.
HMS Beagle 08/03/21 09:34am Truck Campers
RE: New lpg tank

I also never changed tire air from summer to winter blend. I have always filled my tires with a special blend of 78% nitrogen and 21% oxygen. This saves money over the 100% nitrogen the racers use, while providing most of same the benefits.
HMS Beagle 08/01/21 05:10pm Truck Campers
RE: Resealing a vent from the top vs R&R

If you do remove and reseal, use a proper sealant like 3M or Sikaflex polyurethane. The one I particularly like is 3M 4000UV. What you use will depend on the roof material. No matter what you pour on top of the flange, it will fail, and fairly quickly too. Eternabond will work for awhile because it is thick enough and flexible enough to bridge the moving joint.
HMS Beagle 08/01/21 03:10pm Truck Campers
RE: Resealing a vent from the top vs R&R

That depends on whether you want to do it once, right, and have it sealed for 10 - 15 years or do it every year. Dicor poured on top of the flange is never done on a boat, with good reason - boats sink when filled with water, campers just slowly rot.
HMS Beagle 08/01/21 09:22am Truck Campers
RE: solar question

If solar eliminates the need for a genset, it isn't just free, you are paid to take it. For my situation, it eliminated the need for a second bank of batteries, cost less, and will last far longer. So the payback was immediate. Not having to listen to the drone of a genset is priceless.
HMS Beagle 07/30/21 08:45am Truck Campers
RE: solar question

Back in 2011, $1500 for 300 watts wasn't that outrageous. I doubt I would have paid for that, weighing the benefits. But today that would be $300. Same benefit, 1/5 the cost. I went about 5 years without anything else charging the batteries - no charger, not hooked to the truck. Only the solar. 2 or 3 days in the deep shade and you do need something else. I usually drove enough or parked enough in the sun. That was with 200W.
HMS Beagle 07/29/21 11:40pm Truck Campers
RE: solar question

10 years ago I'd have said you need to trade off the cost vs. benefit for your chosen mission. But solar is so inexpensive now, I can think of no good argument to leave it off. About one tank of fuel per 100 watts is the cost, and it is about as maintenance free as anything on an RV.
HMS Beagle 07/29/21 10:05am Truck Campers
RE: Tag axle for truck camper rigs

It's like Frederick Brooks mythical man-month (if one man can write a software program in a year, then 52 can write the same one in a week). Nevertheless, that is how commercial products get tested. If you are Ford, you do not take 4 trucks and test them for 250,000 miles each to get a million miles of testing. You take a hundred trucks and run them each 10,000 miles. In this case, if someone runs one of those tags across the country - 3000 miles - and doesn't have any issues with it, then I'd say that is a decent test. If I were buying one, my attitude would be the same as with all aftermarket equipment - it probably isn't going to be perfect, you are hoping that the flaws you are sure to find will not be terminal.
HMS Beagle 07/28/21 11:04am Truck Campers
RE: Tag axle for truck camper rigs

I'm not going to argue it is a good idea for everyone, but the claim is they have over 100,000 miles of installed experience. With that existence proof, dismissing it out of hand without more knowledge than you read in an on-line article is probably premature. Every one of the alternatives you suggest is far more expensive than this, with the exception of 19.5 which solve only a tire capacity problem. He is not the first to do it, there have been campers sold with tag axles in the past and there are or have been other vendors for pickup truck tags. As far as I know, no deaths resulted from them. Comparing to jumping off a bridge is fallacious. I believe the concept is workable, but probably a good solution only for a narrow set of circumstances. The reliability and safety depend a lot on details which I don't have and weren't illuminated in the article.
HMS Beagle 07/27/21 01:13pm Truck Campers
RE: Tag axle for truck camper rigs

This thing isn’t tire scrub like a tandem trailer. The pivot point is the rear axle of the truck. In a tight turn, it will partly drag the wheels sideways. Under an unknown load. This looks like something I’d fab up to redneck a heavy load a short distance. The pivot point isn't the rear axle (unless you have 90 degrees of front wheel cut). Most full size pickups have a turning radius of ~50', so if the tag is 6' behind the rear axle your scrub angle is about 16 degrees. Not great, but isn't going to kill the tires unless you do circles all day long. Lots of speculation about something that no one posting yet has seen or used. It would be more informative to hear from someone who has used one. I haven't, it doesn't look like the best solution for most people but might be pretty good for some.
HMS Beagle 07/27/21 09:40am Truck Campers
RE: Happijacs, what will happen if.........

I hear ya, square tubes with their flat sides may have buckling modes that round do not - depends on the thickness of the wall. I've had Happijacks on two campers and I'd consider them about par for RV equipment, which let us be honest is an extremely low bar. And Lippert isn't the top drawer of that low set either. I've yet to have a Happijack catastrophically fail, I have had them slowly self destruct and need rebuilds or parts. My expectations of them - like other RV equipment - is low, so I treat them gently. But you can find as many complaints about their competitors. Like many things in RV land, you have to build it yourself or adapt it from another industry if you want reliability and quality.
HMS Beagle 05/30/21 09:27pm Truck Campers
RE: Happijac question....

How heavy is the camper? How heavy is the wiring feeding the control board, and from there to the motors? My Happijacks slow down some when loaded, and I don't run all of them at once - too big a draw. One end up a few inches and then the other. It is lifting a 3500 lb camper in my case. They should do better with the higher voltage from shore power, that is why I ask about the wiring servicing them. First step in debugging that is to measure the voltage delivered at the jack. Happijacks come in two versions, an Acme screw and a ball screw. The ball screws turn easier but are much more susceptible to getting dirty or rusty. It looks like on their heaviest duty jacks they've gone back to an Acme screw. Mine, and the ones on the camper before this, had an overload clutch that makes a nasty ratcheting sound if overloaded, or if run into the end stop. You didn't hear that?
HMS Beagle 05/27/21 04:47pm Truck Campers
Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 4  
Prev  |  Next


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:




© 2021 CWI, Inc. © 2021 Good Sam Enterprises, LLC. All Rights Reserved.