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 > Your search for posts made by 'Huntindog' found 569 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Too much WD bar?

DP
Huntindog 06/30/16 04:33pm Travel Trailers
RE: Too much WD bar?

WD bars are a lot like shoes. Too big is no good as is too small. The right size is the right size. Many here advocate moving up in bar size,so that when the next larger TT comes along, new bigger bars won't be needed. I disagree. Sure one can probably make it work... But it will never work as well as it should. Bars are working springs. They need to be strong enough to transfer the needed weight, and NO stronger... When a TT/TV go thru a dip, or enter/exit a steep driveway... The bars MUST bend. Too strong of a bar can resist bending to the point where the TV tires lose traction, or stress the TT frame to the point of damage... This is a particular concern with many of todays TTs using lighter frames to save weight. My Fleetwood manual actually had ratings on how heavy a bar was allowed based on how thick the frame was. Now having said all of that... In some cases a step up or down in bar size may be beneficial. A stiffly sprung TV may be a little better with a slightly weaker bar, and a softly sprung TV may be better with a slightly stronger bar.... But when in doubt, try to match the actual TW.
Huntindog 06/30/16 04:31pm Travel Trailers
RE: Cool down time for a Norwood?

It depends. How hot is it, and how efficient YOUR fridge is. I had one that took 3-4 days, and two that were 1-2 days. Turn yours on early and monitor it to see.
Huntindog 06/29/16 01:33pm Travel Trailers
RE: Jayco Hummingbird CCC---is this a deal breaker?

That verbage says "CARRIED" as in under tow. In some places it may be legal to carry occupants in a TT. I know for a fact that is the case for 5vers. Jayco builds 5vers. I bet that verbage was simply carried over from the 5vers. No matter.There are other things wrong with this anyway A static load is much less than a dynamic load. I know when I installed my Onan generator, I had to allow either 2.5 or 3X the weight for dynamic loads... Per Onan. So a TT set up for camp can hold much more weight than it can bouncing down the road... Then there is the setup for camp factor. It usually involves stabilizer jacks... They will support some of the weight instead of the axles.
Huntindog 06/28/16 07:16pm Travel Trailers
RE: trailer brakes 'grabby' when warm and used lightly

Believe it or not, grease on the brakes can make them grabby.
Huntindog 06/28/16 06:31pm Tech Issues
RE: Ghost in the camper

Simple solution - install a kill switch. Bonus is if you dry camp you can also use it to prevent any unnecessary drain on the battery. I dunno. I think I'd rather have a happy ghost than a pissed off ghost.
Huntindog 06/28/16 06:24pm Travel Trailers
RE: Oscillations, whats the cause

Truck empty with me and full tank of gas is 5980#, Rear axle 2800# Truck, trailer, me and full tank, 6640#, Rear axle 3620#, trailer 4480# Truck, Trailer, Me, passengers, and equipped, 7480#, Rear axle 4300#, 5280#Unsprung, with the Husky WDH and 800# bars, the truck is 7560#, Rear Axle 4560#, trailer 5200#. I am having some trouble dechipering your numbers. The truck alone with you and gas is 5980? then , Truck, trailer and gas,makes the truck 6640? I am only coming up with 660# TW. That seems pretty light. Is that with or wthout WD applied? What does the trailer alone weigh?
Huntindog 06/26/16 08:51pm Travel Trailers
RE: Ugh, time for new tires

What gets me is that each place has its own brand of trailer tire, none that I ever heard of like the other name brands.... thanks allWelcome to the world of ST tires. It gets even more interesting when you notice the ever changing parade of brand names. It is not like the LT or even P tire market at all. It seems that there is a constant shell game going on.
Huntindog 06/26/16 07:36pm Travel Trailers
RE: Storage problem, Smaller wheels?

Can you weld? If so, you coulf get some old junk wheels and modify them. I am thinking of some flat rolled steel, cut to the width of the rims, and the length equaling the circumference of the rims. Weld the steel to the edges of the wheels creating all steel wheels that will not dig into the dirt. You may be able to pick up the wheels and steel for next to nothing and just have your labor and some welding rod into it. Find out your TT bolt pattern and check with tire shops. They often have rims that were bent and replaced from customers vehicles. Those would be perfectly suitable for this use. As for the steel, you may have some laying around, or a scrap yard... something that can be repurposed will do fine... Looks don't count on a project like this.
Huntindog 06/24/16 04:48pm Travel Trailers
RE: Ugh, time for new tires

With ST tires, I wouldn't be too concerned about a matched set. As you are finding out, a matching replacement on the road is a real crapshoot. So buy one Maxxis and one Carlise and call it good. When the next one fails on the road, you will have a better chance of finding a replacement that matchs something you have.:B
Huntindog 06/24/16 12:23am Travel Trailers
RE: Electric tongue jack recommendations.

I would like a compact head for tailgate clearance ... Then you want an UltraFab 3502 - all metal, smallest head of any power tongue jack, and most importantly the base features multiple holes that allow mounting this tongue jack so the head faces 90 degrees to the side. I recently replaced the awful LCI tongue jack that came with my Coachmen with a 3502 as I had owned an UltraFab before. Noisy? ... sure, they're ALL noisy ... big deal, it goes up, it goes down reliably and that's all I need. :B https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ngTaRlw4c2afYuDlz9IkihxI3WXAWGiC5AE1ajnB9rOvb6M1SnEIPjCMHLXUdauMZSx27FVli_pV=w401-h600-no height=400 width=240The Atwood motor is top mounted, so it will not interfere with the tailgate no matter how it is mounted, That means that it can face forward as designed so the light shines where it is needed. I believe that Atwood is still the only one with a top mounted motor.Top mounted motor could still interfere, my tailgate just clears the shaft of my current manual side crank and these motors seem to protrude out a couple of inches at least. If I have the crank handle down the tailgate will hit the handle. From what I can tell most of these e-jacks tend to be fairly tall which may allow it to clear the arc of the tailgate. My main concern at this point is noise, like I noted above I'm likely to wait until I can see some of these in person and hear them operating. The motor won't interfere. It is possible the shaft may... But if it is that tight, then it would hit the shaft of any jack.
Huntindog 06/22/16 06:53pm Travel Trailers
RE: Electric tongue jack recommendations.

I would like a compact head for tailgate clearance ... Then you want an UltraFab 3502 - all metal, smallest head of any power tongue jack, and most importantly the base features multiple holes that allow mounting this tongue jack so the head faces 90 degrees to the side. I recently replaced the awful LCI tongue jack that came with my Coachmen with a 3502 as I had owned an UltraFab before. Noisy? ... sure, they're ALL noisy ... big deal, it goes up, it goes down reliably and that's all I need. :B https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ngTaRlw4c2afYuDlz9IkihxI3WXAWGiC5AE1ajnB9rOvb6M1SnEIPjCMHLXUdauMZSx27FVli_pV=w401-h600-no height=400 width=240The Atwood motor is top mounted, so it will not interfere with the tailgate no matter how it is mounted, That means that it can face forward as designed so the light shines where it is needed. I believe that Atwood is still the only one with a top mounted motor.
Huntindog 06/22/16 05:38pm Travel Trailers
RE: The China-Bomb debate Put to rest

I don't believe that I have ever seen more truths, half truths and downright incorrect information in any thread on any forum as these 10 pages. Run what makes you all warm and fuzzy. I like LTs, the guy or two above STs. If your choice is one or the other and that's what you believe, do it but beating this subject day after day with little or no real valid information but hearsay, gut feel or ?? is just a waste of time If you had read this thread you would have noticed the several posts in which I copied data directly from the NHTSA, the Tire Industry Media and the industry itself. None of that was hearsay, gut feel or anecsotal. There is a big difference in believing something just because you "Want" to believe it and beleiving something based on facts. People used to beleive the earth was flat and that the Sun revolved around it. That did not make it a fact. Yes you did post some stuff. As I told you then, it is incomplete. IE: you found what you were looking for, and then stopped looking. Anyone that attempts to read the entire regs better have some time on their hands. It seems that none of the info is in one place. You start reading one page and that page refers you to other subsections which in turn refer you to more subsections etc... This is not the first time that someone has posted just "part" of the regs. At one time it was easy to refute all of this as Senior GNC had researched all of it and posted the supporting links. Alas they no longer work as the website has been redone. And nobody has had the time to wade thru it all again to update it.
Huntindog 06/21/16 01:49pm Travel Trailers
RE: Had a blowout today, looking for new tire recommendations.

Just about any tire can be had when you are sitting at home contemplating a replacement set. Time is not of the essence and you can order anything you want from anywhere. Think about the possibilty of needing a replacement on the road. Then you would a tire right now! Since any tire can suffer a road hazard, this applies to all tires/brands. Certain tires are harder to get. Maxxis is one of them. For some reason, virtually nobody stocks them. They almost always need to be ordered. When they arrive they seem to often have old date codes. In spite of the following here, I would not use them for the availability issue alone. The propensity for old dates is just another nail in the coffin. With the myrad of ever changing ST brands, this problem is not a Maxxis only issue. This is why LT tires (particularly 16"0 shine. Since they are used on many millions of pickup trucks, they are stocked everywhere in large variety. They also have a well deserved better reputation, and must pass much stiffer govt. testing. They will likely be more money though. Quality costs.
Huntindog 06/20/16 09:00pm Travel Trailers
RE: Can't stop sway

One thing that could help is if you post some photos - at least a couple of close ups of hitch and at least a couple from a distance with both TT & TV. That TT is long at 33'-5" and heavy at 7500 lbs GVWR and could possibly be pushing the truck to it's limits unless you have the right options. A truck with a longer wheelbase would have been better for that length of trailer. Relying on a dealer's WDH setup is not a good idea. Never trust them. They may not even have the bolts/nuts torqued properly. Did they measure the before and after front fender height? Even if they did, it would have been for an unloaded trailer and truck and when you are fully loaded the setup can change a fair bit. How much weight is restored back onto the steer axle? I thought newer Ford manuals say to restore approx. 50 percent (less than older trucks). How many chain links are under tension? You should aim for 5 links and if that transfers too much or too little weight, adjust the hitch head angle as needed. Less than 5 links may cause binding in turns. Getting a WDH set up correctly sometimes can take a lot trial and error tweaking of various things. Took me a whole season of fiddling last year to get it right, including playing with truck tire pressure, and I ended up having to get a ball with a 1" rise to get the TT to sit where it needed to be. How much does the TT scale fully loaded for camping - is it 6900 lbs based on your 12.5 percent TW? Did you weigh the truck and subtract that from it's GVWR to get the available payload capacity? Actual payload capacity can sometimes vary a lot from the sticker number. Did you calculate the weights being transferred onto the steer and trailer axles? How much does the truck squat when you're hooked up? It could be a combination or things, but I would say one thing that stands out is the truck's tires. If they're P rated, I would upgrade to LTs. I run our Michelin LT LRE tires at 75 psi front & 80 rear. Much less than that and it doesn't feel right. I would highly recommend some good heavy duty shocks on the truck like Bilstein. Shocks on the TT would help but that's not a simple or inexpensive bolt-on and go install. I would look at upgrading the WDH to something like a Blu Ox or Reese dual cam. We have the Reese DC hitch and it works great for us but it is not for everyone. I don't know how the two compare for sway control but I really like the proactive design of the Reese and the way it makes the truck and trailer almost snap back into line. Add the 2nd sway bar. However, it might just be at the end of the day, you need a bigger truck. We upgraded from an F150 to F250 and it is a huge improvement in towing. Lots of good information here. Also, read the Ron Gratz link posted earlier and also, go through this thread on proper WDH set-up, similar to that other link on WDH set-up: Travel Trailer Hitch Set-up Procedure I'm going to also disagree with those saying to add a 2nd sway control friction bar... not that one shouldn't be added but it is shocking to me about just adding the bar without first addressing the WDH set-up and sway issues you are experiencing. Adding a friction bar to a bad set-up is not fixing the issue! Sway control should be on a well functioning TT set-up where the tow is already good and sway control is there in the event an outside force causes an issue where sway control is needed. Do yourself a favor and learn about WDH hows and whys and then work through the process of fine tuning your specific set-up. That means fine tuning with a properly loaded trailer and trying to achieve side to side load balance along with 10%-15% tongue weight siding on more tongue weight for helping to fine tune and correct bad towing manners.I don't think anyone recommended a second sway control is advising it as a bandaid for a poor setup. I know I wasn't. Said so in my post. Yes he needs to get the setup right. But that TT is well beyond the capability of a single sway control... So he needs another one. I will not go so far as to recomend that he scrap the entire hitch for an integrated model though. My reasoning is that from the questions he is asking, I am not sure he is ready yet. The integreted hitchs are a lot more dependant on proper setup than the friction sway control models. With these, one can miss the setup by quite a bit and still get some benefit from the friction control... Yes I know that is using it as a bandaid... But I would rather that while he learns than make the jump before he is ready. This is NOT meant as a slam to the OP. Most of us learned this stuff one piece at a time. And the OP can too. He at least is asking questions. That is the first step in the journey Right now, he needs to learn the ins and outs of proper setup, while being as safe as possible.
Huntindog 06/20/16 07:01pm Travel Trailers
RE: Had a blowout today, looking for new tire recommendations.

No damageto the TT then... You got lucky there. Often a blowout can do a LOT of damage.Thousands of dollars worth.Andifit destroys some of the waste tank plumbing, it can end a trip real fast. What I am getting at is the total cost of a blowout is more than just replacing a tire. So it can pay off to spendsome money on an upgrade. With 6 lug drums you have big head start on making the jump to LTs. You need to do some measuring to see if you have the clearance needed. I was able to do it on my present TT as a straight swap. 16" rims and tires bolted right up with no clearance issues. You need 3" from the top of the tire to the wheelwell, and 1" between the tires. The between the tire measurement is rarely a problem as most TTs use the same size leaf springs. If the wheelwell room is a problem then a small lift can be installed. No matter what it takes, it is worth it to do it. BTDT and bought the T shirt.
Huntindog 06/20/16 06:10pm Travel Trailers
RE: Had a blowout today, looking for new tire recommendations.

One of our TT tires blew going down the road at about 55mph today. We got the spare on and are continuing our trip home. I checked the tread the other day and I still had a lot left all the way around and pressure was right, so I'm guessing it must have hit something.?.?. So now I'm going to have to search for a new tire. I'm not sure if I should buy what I have or get something better. Currently we have Freestar Radial ST tires that are load range D, ST225/75/r15. We usually have about 4,000 - 5,000lbs per trailer axle, so 2,000 - 2,500 lbs per tire. Just looking for recommendations to look at or avoid.How many lugs do your present rims have, 5 or 6? If 6, then you can make the jump to LT tires real easy.
Huntindog 06/20/16 01:12pm Travel Trailers
RE: Arctic Fox versus Toyota Tundra

This is an easy one. No need to look at all of the numbers. It i wayyyy too much TT for that truck.
Huntindog 06/20/16 01:35am Travel Trailers
RE: Had an oh **** moment!

does anybody have problems with the xchaulks loosening? We were stacked up pretty high with levelers and I went on the roof to get a foam piece I used on the top of the slide and the trailer proceeded to roll forward about a foot with my wife hanging out the door and me on top with a wet roof. I got them because they were supposed to keep the trailer put. Do they just need to be re tightened? Thanks for any help. Just about any chock can loosen. Read here how I avoid the issue:Going chockless
Huntindog 06/19/16 07:40pm Travel Trailers
RE: The China-Bomb debate Put to rest

Let's see, on the one hand people buy STs because they are cheaper than LTs and they cannot see the value of spending more money for the LTs. On the other hand, the tire folks make more profit selling the cheaper, far lower volume, STs over the LTs. They are perfectly willing to be sued by our litigious society. Not exactly how capitalism usually works. Not to mention the fact that not all tire makers make STs. As I stated before, P tires do what they are designed to do, STs do what they are designed to do and LTs do what they are designed to do. If you think you are going to exceed the ratings of the tire, do not blame the tire maker if it fails. It is easy enough to go with the tire YOU think will work. I am sure the TT dealer will retrofit almost any tire combo you wish to pay for. There is no doubt that some folk feel "safer" with LTs. Likewise, millions of TT owners never give their STs a second thought. My local tire dealer confesses his profit margin on LTs are higher than on STs. He will sell you what you want, but he advises customers to use ST on trailers, and he uses ST on his FW. Were his lips moving when he said that? Typical salesman. He has a profit motive for everything he tells you.
Huntindog 06/19/16 05:39pm Travel Trailers
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