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 > Your search for posts made by 'Huntindog' found 749 matches.

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RE: Thinking about Def

................. which could possibly effect resale of the vehicle down the road due to the additional fuel system. ........... DEF is not an additional fuel system. The fluid is injected into the exhaust flow at the SCR to reduce pollutants. DEF explainedI can explain it easy. There are basically two types of emissions in diesels that are problems. NoOX, and particlates. There are two ways to lower the NOX. LOTs of EGR to lower the combustion chamber temps, and lower the NOX formation in the engine (this lowers MPGs, power, and causes things like the EGR cooler and turbo to get choked with soot} or tuning the motor for best performance, then treating the NOX with an after treatment in thje exhaust (SCR). This is what the DEF is for. Whether DEF is used or not, both systems use a DPF for particulate emissions... The interaction part has to do with THE DEF systems being able to use LESS EGR, so the DPF can go longer between regens.
Huntindog 03/03/15 02:17am Tow Vehicles
RE: Thinking about Def

The only people complaining about DEF systems are the ones who never had it. Not a fan REGEN systems in general. I've have driven trucks with DEF systems since they hit the market. Most issues we have with our trucks are Regen System related. Either the DEF dosing valve malfunctions, the sensor tubes or DPF filters in the EGR system clogging with soot or any other list of electrical/valve issues. DEF has nothing to do with the regen system. Two separate systems for two different types of emissions... They do interact to a point, but even the pre DEF trucks use DPF, and they are less reliable that the DEF/DPF ones
Huntindog 03/02/15 12:35pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Thinking about Def

Some are missing the point but most seem to get what I am saying and that it has nothing to do with the useage of the DEF but the longevity of the system itself as an emission control device which could possibly effect resale of the vehicle down the road due to the additional fuel system. Thanks for the responses, Darrin While anything is possible, I doubt that DEF is going away anytime soon. Ford/GM did not invent the system, it has been used for quite awhile in other countries and industries. Now the Diesel EGR systems can use quite a bit of improvement... In fact even I have an idea that would make it much better... On par with the reliability of the gas engine systems... So I am sure that some smart engineer has seen the same solution... It is so simple that a cave man could do it.
Huntindog 03/02/15 12:31pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Truck question, is this a good deal

I wouldn't read too much into the time of year the pics were taken. He may just be using pics hae already had. They may have been taken at any time, even when a sale wasn't being considered. I have lots of pics of my vehicles, and none of them are for sale.
Huntindog 03/01/15 06:45pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Power tongue jack?

Worth their weight in gold! Before you make a decision, check Ebay. The one we got for our HTT was, IIRC an Ultra 3500 refurb, and we paid right at $100 for it. Never had any issues. When we got the TT, went right back to Ebay and can't remember this brand, but one of the better ones and also a 3500. This one was brand new in original packaging and was around $125 or so. You can save yourself a bunch. I would not be concerned at all about a refurb. Many have bought them and no complaints...just happened the one we wanted this time was a new. Installation is maybe a 30 minute job and not difficult at all. One thing you want to do regardless of brand, is to have a supply of fuses for it. The electric jack was not part of DH job description and he either raised or lowered too far and the fuse popped. Thankful to have a great camping family next to us and the DH took him to Walmart for fuses. Lesson learned....we have multiple fuses for everything on the truck and TT.The better jacks have clutchs that will slip at the end of travel, eliminating the blown fuse issue.
Huntindog 03/01/15 06:11pm Travel Trailers
RE: Power tongue jack?

This is a common question, and there are many threads on this. The common theme seems to be that the Barker owners are very attached to their jacks, almost all of them rave about the fantastic customer service. My take on that is that it can't be all that reliable if customer service is needed so much. That said, there are two basic designs. The front side mounted motor ie: Barker, Ultrafab, Husky, etc. And the top mounted motor ie: Atwood. Most of the front side mounted motors offer a built in level on the top, which at least on some of them doubles as the plug for the backup hand crank. The front side mounts have many drawbacks. On many TTs using the backup hand crank will require either removing the propane tanks, or turning the crank 1/2 turn, removing it, turning it 180 degrees, reinserting it and repeat this process. Very inconvenient. My concern here is not the need to use the handcrank due to a jack failure so much as a dead battery Due to the motor being mounted on the front side it almost always will result in interference with the tailgate. A common solution is to rotate the jack so that the motor is on the side. But then the hitch light points in the wrong direction. The front side mounts also have several penetrations (holes) in the housing for the switches and backup crank that is a common source of water intrusion into the motor. This is so common that many have posted here that Barker has supplied them with a free cover for the jack. This style of jack really needs to be covered, to eliminate the risk of water intrusion. Owners report that they can operate the jack without removing the cover by feeling the switch through it. But then the light is useless. Owners report that they don't use the light anyway. Probably because most of them have rotated the jack for tailgate clearance, so it points in the wrong direction. I would have a concern that the light switch would get turned on accidently and since it was under the cover go unnoticed and drain the battery. Then the hand crank would need to be used. See previous concern. If your TT has a front slide, then you may have to use a front side mounted motor as they are a little shorter and less likely to interfere with the slide. The top mounted motor, (Atwood) has no pentrations in the housing for water intrusion. So it doesn't need covering. The backup crank inserts in the front, so there is no propane tank interference. And the motor will not interfere with the tailgate. So the jack can point the light at the hitch where it is needed. The only complaints some have is they don't like the sound of the motor as much as some of the others. That's got to be a personal thing, as mine sounds like music everytime I press the button and it does it's work without me breaking a sweat. And I cannot attest to Atwoods customer service as in 16 years of use, I haven't needed any. I also haven't read about it here either. At any rate, look the features of both styles over closely and decide which one makes sense for you. Spend the money. Then enjoy it. I hope this helps. Very good info, HD. I only have experience with an Atwood, as that is what my trailer came with. Seems to work fine so far, going on 2 years. I keep a little plastic trash can over the control over the top to keep the plastic from cracking in the sun. Some use a small plastic bucket.I doubt that you will ever have a problem with the sun cracking the housing. I am in Phoenix AZ, where the sun kills most everything. I have never covered mine. It isn't as shiny as it once was, but otherwise it is fine.
Huntindog 03/01/15 06:08pm Travel Trailers
RE: matress is terrible

Rvs can have son=me odd sized ones. I found a mattress manufacturer in my town that will make anything you want. I got a 13" tall pillowtop inerspring made to my size for a little over 200.00. It only took 4 days, and is fantastic... Much lighter than the foam one it replaced as well.
Huntindog 03/01/15 02:58pm Travel Trailers
RE: Still Another Trailer Sway Story

Tires are good for 112mph,Canadian Michelins to boot. The original Goodyears went 20,000km (12,000m), I'm uncomfortable with a tire at 40%,so even if I hadn,t bent the axel they would have been replaced. Even 110kph is too slow for some country, boring. But I've always cruised at that. You shouldn't have to work at driving. That's the vehicle max when it gets busy. Tongue weight according to the white paper 374/4630 empty,As you know, that is too light. What is it all loaded up?. Both weights. I try to run with a full 60 gal water tank to help. The tank sits under the bed. They realized the problem and mounted a short tongue. BTW later models of Creekside are aluminium framed and lighter. AND longer tongued. The replacement axels are were factory, off heavier trailers, making them easy to install.Were the perches on them for an over axle install? If so, and you did not install new perches for an under axle install.... That would be a major factor. Coupled with a light TW, and it would be a handfull If other readers don't know, trailer axels should have toe-in and camber. The bent one had far too much camber of the wrong type. I realized 7" lift wasn't going to do good things for Center of Gravity . Trucks passing aren't a problem, but rutted pavement makes for more steering corrections. When you are pointed the wrong way, it's good to aim at a more acceptable direction. I'm camping now, but when I get home, I'm thinking a rear sway bar off a Camper Special pickup might limit weight transfer. The trailer came from the factory beefed up with a 2"x2"x1/4" on the frame. It started with a 2" lift. With all that room, a 2" square tube will be easy to weld across for mounting a sway bar. I don't plan on packing half a dozen or more 5gal buckets of rocks and plus used lapidary machinery in the back of the truck. The DW may other ideas. To make matter worse I plan on replacing the tongue to lengthen it, so as not to dent the trailer in some of the tighter Rec Sites. I guess a ballast tank. Weight is not one of my problems. I have never heard of a sway bar on a TT. And the problem they address in vehicles is not the fix you need for a TT. A sway bar basically limits spring compression when in a hard turn, thus keeping the vehicle from leaning as much. This makes for flatter cornering and less tire scrub in hard cornering. This fix won't do much of anything good on a TT. And I am not sure about any potential ill effects on a double axle with equalizer suspension.. I gotta think that one over some.
Huntindog 03/01/15 02:51pm Travel Trailers
RE: Power tongue jack?

This is a common question, and there are many threads on this. The common theme seems to be that the Barker owners are very attached to their jacks, almost all of them rave about the fantastic customer service. My take on that is that it can't be all that reliable if customer service is needed so much. That said, there are two basic designs. The front side mounted motor ie: Barker, Ultrafab, Husky, etc. And the top mounted motor ie: Atwood. Most of the front side mounted motors offer a built in level on the top, which at least on some of them doubles as the plug for the backup hand crank. The front side mounts have many drawbacks. On many TTs using the backup hand crank will require either removing the propane tanks, or turning the crank 1/2 turn, removing it, turning it 180 degrees, reinserting it and repeat this process. Very inconvenient. My concern here is not the need to use the handcrank due to a jack failure so much as a dead battery Due to the motor being mounted on the front side it almost always will result in interference with the tailgate. A common solution is to rotate the jack so that the motor is on the side. But then the hitch light points in the wrong direction. The front side mounts also have several penetrations (holes) in the housing for the switches and backup crank that is a common source of water intrusion into the motor. This is so common that many have posted here that Barker has supplied them with a free cover for the jack. This style of jack really needs to be covered, to eliminate the risk of water intrusion. Owners report that they can operate the jack without removing the cover by feeling the switch through it. But then the light is useless. Owners report that they don't use the light anyway. Probably because most of them have rotated the jack for tailgate clearance, so it points in the wrong direction. I would have a concern that the light switch would get turned on accidently and since it was under the cover go unnoticed and drain the battery. Then the hand crank would need to be used. See previous concern. If your TT has a front slide, then you may have to use a front side mounted motor as they are a little shorter and less likely to interfere with the slide. The top mounted motor, (Atwood) has no pentrations in the housing for water intrusion. So it doesn't need covering. The backup crank inserts in the front, so there is no propane tank interference. And the motor will not interfere with the tailgate. So the jack can point the light at the hitch where it is needed. The only complaints some have is they don't like the sound of the motor as much as some of the others. That's got to be a personal thing, as mine sounds like music everytime I press the button and it does it's work without me breaking a sweat. And I cannot attest to Atwoods customer service as in 16 years of use, I haven't needed any. I also haven't read about it here either. At any rate, look the features of both styles over closely and decide which one makes sense for you. Spend the money. Then enjoy it. I hope this helps.
Huntindog 03/01/15 02:30pm Travel Trailers
RE: Still Another Trailer Sway Story

I have raised all of my TTs... Three of them. No sway issues with any of them. I have been up to 95mph on occasion. I agree that raising the center of gravity may make a TT more likely to sway.... IF it is not set up right. You state that the TT is light on TW... How light? This alone can cause sway. Go over the basics, starting with the TW. The axle install could be a concern. Who welded the spring perches on? If the axle was manufactured with the perches set for an over spring install, and you just flipped them over using the same perches for a under spring install.... They are now upside down. This will definantly not help the situation. There is no reason that this cannot be made to work well... It just needs to be done/setup right.
Huntindog 02/28/15 01:20pm Travel Trailers
RE: deep cycle battery suggestions

Oops. I mistyped. I mean't 12 volts. Playing on a new computer, and trying to learn windows 8.1, seems to be taking all of my brain power.
Huntindog 02/25/15 06:10pm Tech Issues
RE: Where do you boondock.

Where do you get your water tanks filled while boondocking? I often find places on freecampsites.net so some places have water or I go to cheap places that may have water but no hook ups. Some $10.00 places may have central water and a dump station. I pulled into a Wendys/strip mall area in Florida and back by the parking lot they had a dump station and water. When I was more dependent on electric for charging I would go to a regular park every 4 days or so. Dump, water, charge, grocery. Some gas stations or stores will have water. I have also bought water at Walmart. Some free spots will have an outhouse which I will use. The wife has a hard time balancing while squatting with her feet on the toilet seat because she wont sit in there so she uses the RV only. One free place had central water and flush toilet and sink. Same place allowed burying black waste at least 6 in deep and 200 ft from any lake or stream.Where do you find places that will allow you to fill a 40 gallon tank? Do they charge? do you ask first?Often a business such as a propane dealer.. If you buy from them, they will often let you fill up for free.
Huntindog 02/25/15 12:43am Travel Trailers
RE: deep cycle battery suggestions

Because true 6 volt batteries are rare, heavy, and EXPENSIVE. Define rare and EXPENSIVE. Most are saying they buy 6 volt deep cycles for around a hundred dollars or the same price as 12 volt versions.Apples and oranges. I have never see a true 12 volt deep cycle battery for under 100.00.... They are hybrids. That includes the link to the Oriellys one posted previously. You won't find 12 volt true deep cycle batteries at most of the major auto parts stores, or the big box stores such as Wal Mart. Lots of people believe that those are deep cycle as the label on them is marketed as such... Weigh them. They don't have nearly as much lead as a true deep cycle. 6 volts can (which are DEEP CYCLE) be had well under 100.00 at sams and Costco everywhere. Trojans for slightly over 100.00. I have used both with great success.
Huntindog 02/24/15 11:38pm Tech Issues
RE: deep cycle battery suggestions

DP
Huntindog 02/24/15 11:31pm Tech Issues
RE: Registration

When I bought my TT in Ohio, I had my credit union handle everything. The payment to the dealer, and the AZ registration. When I went to sign the papers, the credit union had my AZ registration and temp plate for me. I took it with me to Ohio, put it on and towed it home.
Huntindog 02/24/15 04:53pm Travel Trailers
RE: Parkit360 CROOKS CROOKS CROOKS CROOKS

Businesses get far better shipping rates than residents do because of their volume. I often take packages to a business I have a connection with to save a LOT of money. So if the OP paid 80.00, then the business should have paid a lot less to ship it to him.... They are probably calling the excess "handling" which I call a made up fee for extra profit
Huntindog 02/23/15 07:36pm Travel Trailers
RE: deep cycle battery suggestions

I read these threads and have one foolish question. While I get the superiority of six volt batteries, why doesn't anyone mention that 12 volt batteries make expansion easier and possibly cheaper? If you can't get by with one? Add a second. Still not enough? Buy a third. Not everyone needs to go from two to four when going from two to three might meet their requirements. I am not saying three twelve's equal six sixes.Because true 6 volt batteries are rare, heavy, and EXPENSIVE. Most all RVers use the cheap readily available hybrid or marine/starting batteries. They are simply not in the same class as a true deep cycle battery... But for light users that camp with electric hookups, hybrids will work fine.
Huntindog 02/23/15 03:04pm Tech Issues
RE: Dehumidifiers

I have a Fridgadaire that works great.
Huntindog 02/23/15 02:52pm Travel Trailers
RE: CP3 in Ram verses CP4 in Ford and GM

There is a thread on the DieselStop forum about documented HPFP failures, been open for quite some time and there are not that many cases that are documented. I would think from this thread that the CP4 pump grenades on a regular basis but that's not the case; since GM and Ford outsells the Ram by several percentages points we are going to hear about more issues with these trucks. When you rely on fuel lubrication for the pump it just becomes necessary to use a quality fuel additive to increase that lubricity along with proper maintenance plus draining your water separator, don't wait for the idiot light to come on. JMO Got a 2015 Ford F350 Platinum CCDRW 4X4 on order after giving the Ram considerable test driving Odd, that contradicts what is said about ULSD by the manufacturers of these vehicles....no additives necessary....now understand, that's not "MY" stand, but I've read it about the GM/Chevy Ram trucks in their owners manuals...It's stated that IF ONE chooses to use an additive, THEN there is a recommendation, I believe for GM it's Stanadyne, (sp?) BUT again, I don't know about Ford, but when I owned Chevy that took ULSD, no where in my owners manual did it recommend using a fuel additive, in fact, in some manuals, it states, "no fuel additives needed"....same with Ram...it's there for the research....again, I'm not saying that there is anything wrong with using a fuel additive, BUT I see no where FROM THE MANUFACTURER that it is HIGHLY recommended, if recommended at all for one to use a fuel additive to help with lubricity to help keep the HFPF in great working condition....just saying, IF it was THAT important to the care of the injectors, fuel pump, etc.....to keep from having warranty issues with the fuel system...you would think it would stick out like a sore thumb in the manufacturers owners manual that fuel additives are a MUST......Haven't seen that. I would think that when BOSCH was doing R&D on their CP4 HPFP, part of the testing would have to take into consideration the lubricity of the USLD fuel and how it would affect the HPFP over a certain length of time, (at least 3/36)....I mean, they HAVE to cover themselves for any possible failures...So one would think that "IF" a fuel additive HAS to be used to maintain the integrity of the CP4 fuel pump....it would have been passed on to the manufacturer of the engine/manufacturer of the vehicle....but I've NEVER seen a "CAUTION", or a "YOU MUST USE", type of information in the owners manual that states you MUST use a fuel additive to maintain the integrity of our (BOSCH) CP4 fuel pump. Should have been thought out in the manufacturing process of the pump itself. ....and the water in the fuel, yeah, it doesn't take a rocket scientist to know what can happen in that case..if water get's in, then yeah, big issue, but having owned diesels for almost 14 years, I've never had the first water issue to date...I know one can, but it never happened with any Chevy or Dodge/Ram I've owned... Again, someone show me where it is RECOMMENDED by the truck manufacturer that a fuel additive is a MUST....it HAS to be used.....I'm talking Ford, GM or Ram, and show where it states it's needed to keep the fuel pump lubed properly to help it last longer than the short time frames we've read about failures in...and for as much as it can cost, one would think the information to use fuel additives would be written on a sheet of paper and announced when vehicle is purchased. I know about all the other research and all the arguments on how ULSD needs an additive and how low the lubricity is, but again...that's "others" discussing the merits of fuel additives...heck, it's what they sell, what do you expect from them? I'm talking about the actual manufacturer/warranter of the vehicle.....what is THEIR take on it...If it was that important, I would think in an owners manual it would be stated to add a fuel additive "X" amount of times a year, a month, a week, at fill ups etc...not seen it...BUT that is extra money which manufacturers would have to pass onto the consumer....sort of like extra cost of DEF, BUT that isn't anywhere near as costly as adding a fuel additive every other tank fill up or more or less often...to me ONE would be too many.GM frowns on using additives in my manual. Interesting thing about Ford. They were (still are?) having the dealers make purchasers sign a paper about the use of their additive (PM22 ?) being mandatory. There were some other things such as mandatory draining of the water separator at very frequent intervals.I have seen these papers posted on the net. It seems that follow thru from the dealers was/is inconsistent on this. Since you have saw this document, and would know where to find it, please post it for others to see. When I bought my Ford, I never signed this document. I have never met any Ford driver who has signed this document you speak of. It does say in owners manual that one should drain the water separator, did in my Chevy manual too. It also says that if you want to use an additive, they suggest you use PM-22A. My Chevy said they suggested Stanadyne. It doesn't say it is mandatory you have to use PM-22A. On this document you speak about, what does it say is the consequences of not doing this? I fully understand you wanting proof but, It has been awhile. It was posted on several sites. IIRC, even here. A quick search attempt failed just now.. The Archive function isn't working. Norsky knows what I am talking about... I am sure that Fish could find it really fast, or confirm it's exisitence LOL... Not in this lifetime. Fish bleeds Ford blue, and would love to deny it's existence. I will try again later, as this search may take a while, and I will be too busy for a few days to play on the computer. Maybe some one else will have it posted by then. It was a very strongly worded document. As I said, not all dealers were making owners sign it. Likely as it had potential to cancel a sale. IIRC, the consequences of not following the instructions was a warranty cancelation. I found the fact that it even existed scary.
Huntindog 02/18/15 03:14am Tow Vehicles
RE: Replacing swollen wood on slide out bottom (outside)

Good thing you aren't having the dealer do the job. I have no idea what they are talking about. It almost sounds like they made it up.
Huntindog 02/17/15 04:41pm Tech Issues
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