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 > Your search for posts made by 'Huntindog' found 475 matches.

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RE: Anyone use rv share?

I guess i was hoping everyone would be respectful as i was when renting. I made sure the camper was just as if not cleaner when i returned it every time. I just can't get over something sitting 90% of the year and not using it. Like i said the guy that we rent from has only had 1 issue. Maybe he is just lucky? Renting the camper the last two times cost about $1600-1800. Just thought purchasing one would make more sense if i could rent it out a few times a year. I'm not a person that gets freaked out by other people using my things. They are just that, things and they are replaceable. Appreciate your guy's opinions!! We have an outdoor show the end of the month. Going to check out some floor plans and we'll see what happens.Some people just don't know any better.I was a member of a club that had a trailer for field events. Whoever we could get to volunteer towed it to and from events. It was shocking to me how hard they were on things. There are some people that can screw up a crowbar.
Huntindog 01/22/20 12:29pm Travel Trailers
RE: weep holes in cherokee 2019 304r

Maybe straighten out a paper clip and push it through the weep hole from the outside. Have someone in the trailer watch and see where the clip comes in.On the windows I have experience with, the paper clip idea won't work. On those, the outside weep hole was in a differnt location than the inside one. They both led into the same cavity, but it would be impossible toget a paperclip, into one and out the other. No idea if all windows are like this.
Huntindog 01/22/20 03:23am Travel Trailers
RE: Anyone use rv share?

Renters of these types of things are generally ones that don't know how a RV works, or don't care. Most will put more effort into making sure they don't run out of beer, than being careful with a rental.
Huntindog 01/21/20 05:22pm Travel Trailers
RE: Would I ever be happy towing with a half ton truck

I think you’ll be just as happy as this guy! https://i.ibb.co/1sDx2kq/461-BC341-A02-A-421-F-B045-F441346395-F3.pngThis pic is worth a millon words. The reason this is a never ending debate on this forum is that different people have different expectations as to their lashups performance. This guy in the pic, obviously is at the low end of the chart. I and others want to be at the high end. The question for the OP is;;;;; Where do you want to be? If you are asking, then I think you have your answer already. As for the people suggesting a lighter weight TV as a "dual purpose" solution.... And getting offended by those that disagree.... Well this is a tow vehicle forum. What do you expect? I am sure their are other places that discuss daily driver vehicles.
Huntindog 01/20/20 01:19am Tow Vehicles
RE: rough country Lift good or bad?

Well you can forget about whatever your tow rating was with a lift/big tires.
Huntindog 01/17/20 12:27pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Attention Grand Design Owners...

The HA/PP are semi permanently fixed to the tongue so it's part of the TW. Same as adding a couple more batteries. I disagree. When any style of hitch is hooked up, they are semi permanently attached to the TT.... But none of that weight should be used to calculate TW.... TW percentage is a figure used to determine the INHERENT stability of the TT alone....If you cheat on this figure, you only cheat yourself. The main body of the HA is left bolted to the tongue when done towing. Same as the propane tanks, batteries or the chain pull ups. Unlike a standard WDH where the main body is slipped into the receiver the HA is attached to the tongue.One COULD leave a traditional WD hitch attached to the TT.. Simply release the pressure on the bars, pull the hitch pin on the drawbar, and drive away. Not any different than the Propride/HA.
Huntindog 01/15/20 02:12am Travel Trailers
RE: Attention Grand Design Owners...

The HA/PP are semi permanently fixed to the tongue so it's part of the TW. Same as adding a couple more batteries. I disagree. When any style of hitch is hooked up, they are semi permanently attached to the TT.... But none of that weight should be used to calculate TW.... TW percentage is a figure used to determine the INHERENT stability of the TT alone....If you cheat on this figure, you only cheat yourself. And I disagree with you. :) Do you not add the weight of a standard hitch to the payload of a truck before it is hooked up to the trailer? The same exact thing applies to the HA/PP hitches. They are left on the trailer all the time just like the batteries or propane bottles and IMO should be counted as part of the tongue weight. If you weigh the tongue, you put down the front jack on a scale and the result you get would be a weight that includes the HA/PP hitch. It is not removed and inserted into the truck like a standard hitch - only the stinger is , which becomes just like the hitch head and shank of a normal hitch and would not be include in the tongue weight. The hitch becomes, in essence, another coupler- just a very fancy, expensive one which is attached to the trailer tongue and should be counted in the tongue weight. :W BarneySo you disagree..... Why do you think he is not happy with the way it tows? My money is on the Propride's weight being included in the TW, making the TT inherently unstable.... But the design of the Propride makes sway impossible even with low TW.... That doesn't mean it will feel right. It is just masking the underlying issue.
Huntindog 01/14/20 12:22pm Travel Trailers
RE: Attention Grand Design Owners...

The HA/PP are semi permanently fixed to the tongue so it's part of the TW. Same as adding a couple more batteries. I disagree. When any style of hitch is hooked up, they are semi permanently attached to the TT.... But none of that weight should be used to calculate TW.... TW percentage is a figure used to determine the INHERENT stability of the TT alone....If you cheat on this figure, you only cheat yourself.
Huntindog 01/14/20 02:01am Travel Trailers
RE: Attention Grand Design Owners...

GD grey and black tanks are behind the axels in this model, and water is in front. So my 10% was with full water, and no waste - but pretty much otherwise as delivered, This /\/\/\ is a red flag for me.
Huntindog 01/14/20 01:57am Travel Trailers
RE: Attention Grand Design Owners...

Late to the party. I have the 2017 version of this model. Tow with a 2012 F-150, HDPP. 2166 payload. 6000 miles on it. Can't speak to the latest model, but mine was very, very light on the nose, even with full water (10%). I had scary sway a few times during the early period of owning. Was using an inadequate hitch. Got the ProPride hitch, which settled it down. Current TW is about 920 (12.5%). Mostly due to the very heavy hitch. You may have to plan on figuring out ways to add lots of weight to the nose if not spending the big $$ for the hitch - more batteries, over hitch bike rack, etc. - if GD has not reworked it. Online specs lead me to think not - but they are bad about keeping those things current. If buying from a dealer, I would demand they scale the unit, to see if it is too light on the tongue, or not. 12% on the tongue is the bare minimum you want to see. I still get a bit of movement from "truck suck" as the big rigs pass me. Wife is not comfortable driving it, although I've gotten used to it. The spring project is to go over everything with ProPride, to see if it is all set up correctly. Milage on the Ecoboost is 8.5. Bummer, as my old fifth got 10. Different aerodynamics, and more sticking out behind. There is a lot of tail to wag the dog. No useability complaints - we had a few things fixed under warranty, and there were a couple of recalls for that year, but nothing that interfered with its use. While quality is on a par with similar priced other brands, GD does excel at customer response. The only thing I ever got from Jayco was "check with your dealer". GD will chase down answers to questions, step in if the dealer is dragging their feet, etc. They even will authorize anyone to do warranty work on it...(except for Camping World). I believe the weight of the hitch does not count as TW of the TT.. Most here seem to agree on this. I also believe that the weight of the hitch should be counted against the allowable TW as far as the reciever is concerned. In other words, the TT TW needs to be over 10% not counting the hitch WT. That is what will make the TT inherently stable.. But the reciever will be supporting/distributing the TW of the TT AND the hitch, so the total should be under it's rating. The propride will not let the TT sway, even if the TW is light... But it will just be masking the real problem of light TT TW. So that is likely why it feels unsettled when you tow it. This is the problem with some lashups with the propride/hensly design. A marginal TV that they would be perfect for, runs out of capacity pretty easy when used with a heavy TW TT, and the weight of the hitch. I don't know your numbers, but if you can add more TW temporairly as a test... See if it feels better. Also, I am a big fan of more than most like for TW. Depending on the design of the TT, and your specific usage of it.. Weight can shift around a LOT in the course of a trip. The GD has large holding tanks. That alone can be a major factor. And sometimes during a cold weather hunt, we return home with next to no propane in the tanks. Food gets eaten and becomes waste.. Many other items can move around as well. I like to be right at 15% or more when I start a trip.. Then I have no worries about the return trip.
Huntindog 01/13/20 12:41pm Travel Trailers
RE: Attention Grand Design Owners...

We have a 2017 Imagine 2650, very happy with it. There's a GD forum and a few Facebook groups dedicated to GD's. Hope you have a 3/4-ton to pull it....... At 600 pounds dry tongue and 32 feet it would seem to be within what a well equipped half ton can reasonably handle with a couple in the truck. Why do you think he needs a 3/4?Dry= 6785 TW 642. Those are advertised numbers, so it will likely be more. GVWR= 8495. With the large tanks it has, it could easily be over 1,000 lbs of liquid waste alone! Unless it will always be a campground queen, that scenario is likely. GD makes great units, and I am a fan.... But they are heavy for the reasons I like them. Though this unit could technically be towed by the "right" 1/2 ton, one would need to be careful about the weight. It is a much better match for a 3/4-1 ton SRW. OP: Pay attention to what the GD owners that responded are towing with. Not one of them has a 1/2 ton. The only 1/2 ton proponent has a small KZ, with a GVWR of just 3500 lbs.
Huntindog 01/11/20 03:05pm Travel Trailers
RE: Adhesive for Aluminum roof to plywood?

Okay guys I'm really sorry for the late response we have been very busy on the build! I think everyone has agreed no plywood under the roof which helped me come up with an even better solution than screws. We really wanted to avoid screws because the original camper had water leaks all around where they screwed the roof. We have actually built a metal framing for the camper (added only about 100 pounds more than what the wood framing was) now we did this because we wanted a strong roof that could support our solar panels. Because our frame is metal and our roof is metal this allows to to use VHB tape. I have done a lot of research on this tape and man is it STRONG. They are starting to build some campers with it so it has been tested and has worked very well. So here's our plan. We will be using vhb tape to attach the roof to the steel frame members, this will allow the roof to expand and contract just like screws. We will leave a lip on the roof to hammer over the edges of the aluminum siding. The "lip" will be hammered onto a vhb tape attaching it to the siding, hence avoiding even more screws. So our roof will be COMPLETELY SEAMLESS and with absolutely no holes..we are putting our fantastic fan in the back side of the camper not on the roof. I know it's unconventional but again I don't want holes in the roof. honestly I think it's time for a change for RVs and travel trailers..I mean how long is it going to take them to solve these water leak issues. Solutions are out there it's just extra money up front but worth it in the long run. I will definitely keep everyone up to date once the build is complete and after traveling, we'll see how it holds :)How are you going to mount the solar panels?
Huntindog 01/11/20 12:43pm Travel Trailers
RE: Sandblasting and powdercoating: Les Schwab or dedicated shop

I want to take all my 2004 TT's wheels off this winter and have them sandblasted and powder coated. The rust is getting pretty bad, and I'm too lazy to clean and paint them myself. The local Les Schwab store will do them for $35 a wheel. I called a couple of dedicated shops, and they quoted me $55-$65 a wheel. I'm guessing that the dedicated shops will do a more thorough job, but I wonder if I really need to spend that much more. It's just a trailer, after all. I could buy new wheels for $55-$65 a wheel. Anybody been down this path?Not sure it is cost effective. My Discount will mount and ballance for free, if I buy the rims from them. They also have the best pricing I have found.
Huntindog 01/10/20 01:34am Travel Trailers
RE: My perception on real gas

Maybe I should tell my buddy to change his car from an alkie car to a gasoline car if gas makes more power. There is a reason alkie makes more power than gasoline. Especially in supercharged cars. Alkie has O2 in it and gasoline does not. Alkie (or gasoline with alkie) also has higher octane which does wonders with power on supercharged vehicles.I have a pure apple to apples experience on this. In 97 or so, I joinned a sprint car race team. In the begining we ran a mini sprint, and the rules allowed either gas or alcohol. The car we had ran on gas. Power was not an issue.There were only 2-3 gas powered cars running, and we had the only consistant front runner. It was a bit of a hassle, as the alcohol guys were suspicious of the gas guys. When we had a good night there was always a challange as to our fuel being doctored. We had to have it tested often, always passing the test. We soon went to alcohol, partly because of the hassle, but mostly because the motor just ran too hot on gas. The alcohol carbs were huge, and the consuption skyrocketed, but the motor ran nice and cool. The consenusus was that the volume of alcohol was shedding more heat out of the exhaust. IDN, but I do know that power was not an issue with either fuel..It just took a LOT more alcohol to do the job compared to gas. Yep Dog, we had sort of the same thing going on. On cool days our gas engine could hang with the alkie boys. But in the hot weather we would flat out get left off of the turn. They would pull a lot harder because the alkie had it's own O2 on board the fuel unlike our gas. We also ran carbs so it would intercool the manifold which gave them even more power. The alkie boys had a hard time to keep their handling in check because they burned twice the fuel (methanol) and that would upset the handling of the car later in the race. They would burn twice the fuel and upset their handling but they would also make more power. Just like life. Give and take. OP here is a good article on gas & alkie. (Yes I know this is about methanol and the E in E10 is ethanol. And you will get more power out of methanol than ethanol for the reasons you get more power out of ethanol than gasoline.)For us, both fuels provided good power. lap times were good with both. The gas power though got the oil hotter than wqas desireable. When we went to alcohol, there was a new issue: Weight. The weight of the extra fuel we had to have in the cell. That made for many debates in the pits. How much extra weight vs. running out, and how it changed the handling of the car. The gas used so much less, as to make that a non issue.
Huntindog 01/08/20 12:34pm Tow Vehicles
RE: My perception on real gas

Maybe I should tell my buddy to change his car from an alkie car to a gasoline car if gas makes more power. There is a reason alkie makes more power than gasoline. Especially in supercharged cars. Alkie has O2 in it and gasoline does not. Alkie (or gasoline with alkie) also has higher octane which does wonders with power on supercharged vehicles.I have a pure apple to apples experience on this. In 97 or so, I joinned a sprint car race team. In the begining we ran a mini sprint, and the rules allowed either gas or alcohol. The car we had ran on gas. Power was not an issue.There were only 2-3 gas powered cars running, and we had the only consistant front runner. It was a bit of a hassle, as the alcohol guys were suspicious of the gas guys. When we had a good night there was always a challange as to our fuel being doctored. We had to have it tested often, always passing the test. We soon went to alcohol, partly because of the hassle, but mostly because the motor just ran too hot on gas. The alcohol carbs were huge, and the consuption skyrocketed, but the motor ran nice and cool. The consenusus was that the volume of alcohol was shedding more heat out of the exhaust. IDN, but I do know that power was not an issue with either fuel..It just took a LOT more alcohol to do the job compared to gas.
Huntindog 01/07/20 05:45pm Tow Vehicles
RE: My perception on real gas

I have a 73 Blazer with a carburator. Over the years as they increased the ethanol percentage in the gas, I have had to richen up the jetting, and milage decreased. With todays computer controlled fuel injected motors, no tuning is needed, as they correct automatically.... But MPGs and power will still suffer. At least we found something to do with corn. :M
Huntindog 01/06/20 10:29pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Hey Y'all! Have a noob question!

Most tank treatments preserve the poo. There are some that use bacteria to dislolve/eat it. These work very well with time. I once had my DW live in the TT in the driveway for 2 months. I did not get around to dumping the full tank for awhile. When I did, the clear plastic adaptor I use showed absolutly no solids were left. No smell, and it was pretty clear. You are a perfect candidate for such a treatment.
Huntindog 01/06/20 01:03pm Travel Trailers
RE: Adhesive for Aluminum roof to plywood?

You are GENEROUS in predicting 10-15 years. MAYBE if you wash it a couple times each year, apply a UV protectant every time it is washed and store it out of the sun. I am in Phoenix AZ. About as bad as it gets sun wise in the U.S. I am on my second TT with over 10 years on the roof. Never washed it, never treated it, always in the Sun. No failures, no leaks. My first used TT with an aluminum roof, had numerous leaks. All from sealant failures. About the only advantage I can see for aluminum is it may hold up to tree branchs better, if one has the tendancy to rub the TT against them.
Huntindog 01/06/20 02:12am Travel Trailers
RE: Adhesive for Aluminum roof to plywood?

As far as the OPs question, aluminum roofing does not need glued down, it is secured via screws around the entire perimeter, the middle floats. In fact it needs to float to allow for expansion and contraction with temperature changes The reason most manufacturers don't use aluminum is the expansion and contraction, especially on large units. Most leaks are not from the material (whatever it is) failing, but from the sealant around various necessary penetrations failing. Aluminum because of the large amount of expansion/contraction is very hard on the sealant.... It can easily fail in the short warranty periods that RVs typically have... That costs money in warranty claims... And that is why the manufacturers have moved away from it. The flexible roofing most use now have a certain amount of "give" that is beneficial to the sealants, and the do not expand/ contract much. Huntin'.. COST is the factor and reason, not the expansion/contraction. Price aluminum vs the cost of EPDM/VINYL/TPO and you will quickly realize that you will save hundreds of $$. RV industry and manufacturing is a COST driven thing, lower the cost and increase profits, RV industry like any other manufacturing industry must make enough profit to make it worthwhile to stay in business. If one can save $100 in materials and labor per unit and you build say 10,000 of the same item per year, you now have an extra cool 1 MILLION DOLLARS in PROFITS (yeah that is $1,000,000) that now can be pocketed by the CEO and management.. That IS how real businesses work. They don't care one bit about if it will make it past the measily 1 or 2 yr "warranty" period, they CAN afford to "fix" your broken RV under warranty because they SAVED money UP FRONT when building it.Re read what I wrote. You are actualy making my point. I had an older aluminum roofed RV once... The sealant failure around penetrations is real. All of my subsequent RVs have not had aluminum, and not suffered any sealant failures. I do not know the cost of aluminum vs the others. I do know that the sealant fails at a high rate with aluminum. That costs manufacturers money, in warranty claims and customer disatisfaction. If aluminum is more prone to failure, and the cost is equal, It is a win for the manufacturer9 (and the consumer). If it is more expensive, then it is even more so. Again: Most leaks are NOT a result of the roofing material failing. But from the sealant failing at penetration areas
Huntindog 01/05/20 02:10am Travel Trailers
RE: Adhesive for Aluminum roof to plywood?

As far as the OPs question, aluminum roofing does not need glued down, it is secured via screws around the entire perimeter, the middle floats. In fact it needs to float to allow for expansion and contraction with temperature changes The reason most manufacturers don't use aluminum is the expansion and contraction, especially on large units. Most leaks are not from the material (whatever it is) failing, but from the sealant around various necessary penetrations failing. Aluminum because of the large amount of expansion/contraction is very hard on the sealant.... It can easily fail in the short warranty periods that RVs typically have... That costs money in warranty claims... And that is why the manufacturers have moved away from it. The flexible roofing most use now have a certain amount of "give" that is beneficial to the sealants, and the do not expand/ contract much.
Huntindog 01/04/20 06:01pm Travel Trailers
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