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 > Your search for posts made by 'Huntindog' found 473 matches.

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RE: leaking grease seal.

When repacking the wheel bearings ALWAYS use: DOUBLE LIP SEALS WITH A GARTER SPRING and most of your grease leakage will be elimated! Most folk do not realize that you MUST TURN the drum while adding grease since they never bothered to read the manuals. Bet most folks simply plug the grease gun in with the wheels firmly planted to terra firma and never turn the drums.. Have read a lot of posts where someone would state that they "gave it a couple of squirts" each time before camping, bet they never raised a tire.. Turning the drums allows the grease to move through easier which reduces the pressure on the seals. But as pointed out, why bother with the zerks, if you follow the AXLE manufacturers recommendation of inspecting the brakes and bearings yearly, it makes zero sense to pump grease in! That is just being lazy and taking the "EZ" way out and then whining and complaining when you end up with damaged grease laden brake shoes! Chances of ever having grease laden brakes are pretty darn low if you pull the drums and hand repack the bearings, over almost 40 years messing with drum brakes (combined with autos and trailer axles) and have never had grease blow out the seals and on my brakes. Messy, yeah, but that is what gloves are for. First,I have never seen a grease seal that did not have a garter spring.AndI have seen a lot of them. Not saying they don't exist, but they must not be common. Single, double and triple lips can be had. As for the turning of the drums while greasing: This one of the issues I have with this system. YOU MUST rotate the drum at a slow AND consistent speed while pumping grease. The grease hole that feeds the inner bearing needs to have the bearing rotate over it to push out all of the old grease.Not rotating will result in just the dirty grease directly over the hole being pushed out. The kicker is that it is difficult to do perfectly. the rotation of the drum and the speed of the pumping need to be coordinated to get all of the old grease out... IF you can do it perfectly, the old grease from the inner bearing will pretty much be replaced, while the old grease in the outer bearing is pushed out the end of the spindle. (IF THE ENTIRE HUB IS FILLED WITH GREASE) At this point many, including the Dexter "video" think they are done... But wait a minute! Where is the old grease from the inner bearing? It is still in the hub..... Somewhere. At some point in future grease pumpings, it will enter the outside bearing.The servicer will likely be unaware of this, as it cannot be seen. Worse, if the hubs are not perfectly filled with grease, this old grease may make an erractic journey to the outside bearing. So to use this feature with a realistic chance of getting most of the old grease from BOTH bearings to exit the spindle., will require a LOT of pumping and rotating. Almost an entire tube per wheel!! With all of this pumping and rotating going on, doing it perfectly is pretty hard, and there is a huge chance of pushing some grease past the seals. As has been already noted, grease guns operate from 5,000 to 14,000 PSI. No seal can stand up to those pressures. So for those that just give them a pump or two once a year..."I don't know what you are doing,but your doing it wrong"
Huntindog 11/23/19 03:04am Travel Trailers
RE: leaking grease seal.

Ok. Yes it has Zerk fittings. however I don't think they are the culprit. I have been using TTs with ZERKs for more than 16 years with no problems. This axle was replaced 2 years ago because of a bad hub. the service guy told me it was best just to replace the axle, and as I was having them flipped, and they had to come off anyway. We did. As per instructions I have always pumped grease into the hubs until grease appears around the center. I did the new ones the same way. One side of the new axle filled, and showed as soon as I started pumping. The other side did not. It took a long time to get grease to show. I just thought as it was new, it wasn't filled at the factory. As I look back. It more than likely had a bad seal from the factory. but since I didn't crawl under the Tt to look, and there was no grease on the cement under the TT. It got past me. And since it is now 2 years old. It is on me. I saw it as soon as I did crawl under the TT. Grease all over the back plate. So it will be done before we go again. Yes the brakes worked great until the last trip we took this fall. They still worked, still stopped the TT. But just didn't feel right. so I'm taking it to M&M to have it done. This is not the same place that raised the TT. M&M Trucking is owned, and operated by a friend of mine. He started it from scratch about 15 years ago. It is also a on call road service garage. He is also a camping buddy. The shop has a excellent reputation, and I have more than just a little trust in his work. Knowing him as I do. I know he is as honest as the day is long.There have been reports here in the past (with pics) where the grease hole that feeds the inner bearing had a sharp burr left from machining. This burr would nick a new seal as the drum was installed... Instant seal failure. The fix was to use a dremel and carefully chamfer/smooth the hole so there were no sharp edges. I have the EZ lubes. But I will not use them. There are many issues with them , but the bottom line is that one cannot see what is really happening inside, without disassembly... Which the manufacturer requires once a year according to their service manual.... That being the case, there is no advantage to them. Many people such as yourself are driving around with blown seals, and just haven't discovered it yet.
Huntindog 11/21/19 07:23pm Travel Trailers
RE: leaking grease seal.

Wow, only three posts to get this off topic! Yes, there is a good chance the brakes have been contaminated eith grease. No matter how you try, youll never get all the grease off the brakes. Definitely have them replaced. Yep. Lots of folks have a problem with reading comprehension. They read things that are just not there. The post was about question brakes shoes. Not Wheel bearings.Not off topic, and no problem with reading comprehension. The grease on the brakes comes from the wheel bearings. On axles with EZ lube hubs, this is a common occurance. Hence my question. If the OP has EZlube hubs, and uses this feature, then that is most likely the reason he is now probably facing a big bill. True, grease seals can just fail... But it happens a lot more often when using the EZlube feature. Agreed, I was going to post nearly exactly what you just said. If anyone had used the EZ Lube feature that can easily push grease past the seal, so it helps in the future. Here is the not so funny thing... I have read where some dealers will when doing a bearing service, just pump some grease into the zerk, and charge for a repack.... Then when the brakes get grease on them, they charge the customer for a brake and bearing job! IOW, They make their own work.
Huntindog 11/20/19 05:31pm Travel Trailers
RE: leaking grease seal.

Wow, only three posts to get this off topic! Yes, there is a good chance the brakes have been contaminated eith grease. No matter how you try, youll never get all the grease off the brakes. Definitely have them replaced. Yep. Lots of folks have a problem with reading comprehension. They read things that are just not there. The post was about question brakes shoes. Not Wheel bearings.Not off topic, and no problem with reading comprehension. The grease on the brakes comes from the wheel bearings. On axles with EZ lube hubs, this is a common occurance. Hence my question. If the OP has EZlube hubs, and uses this feature, then that is most likely the reason he is now probably facing a big bill. True, grease seals can just fail... But it happens a lot more often when using the EZlube feature. Good info IMO and very helpful post. If I were the OP I would want to know how my brakes got grease on them. If I was the OP and wanted to know how grease was leaking out of the hub (no one actually concluded the brakes had grease on them yet) i would ask the mechanic working on it instead of an opinion based on conjecture. Now you've gone and done it. My mechaincal skills are far more advanced than what a typical RV mechanic has. My vehicles and RVs are serviced by me. Been that way for over 40 years. The only time my stuff goes to a dealer is when it is under warranty... And they screw that up so often I hate to do it then. I have built motors.. Race and street. Rebuilt transfer cases and front/rear axles, including setting up the ring & pinion. I can and have done just about anything mechanical. For myself, and few close friends. My question to the OP (still unanswered) was an attempt to help him in preventing this from happening again.
Huntindog 11/20/19 05:22pm Travel Trailers
RE: leaking grease seal.

Wow, only three posts to get this off topic! Yes, there is a good chance the brakes have been contaminated eith grease. No matter how you try, youll never get all the grease off the brakes. Definitely have them replaced. Yep. Lots of folks have a problem with reading comprehension. They read things that are just not there. The post was about question brakes shoes. Not Wheel bearings.Not off topic, and no problem with reading comprehension. The grease on the brakes comes from the wheel bearings. On axles with EZ lube hubs, this is a common occurance. Hence my question. If the OP has EZlube hubs, and uses this feature, then that is most likely the reason he is now probably facing a big bill. True, grease seals can just fail... But it happens a lot more often when using the EZlube feature.
Huntindog 11/20/19 12:41pm Travel Trailers
RE: leaking grease seal.

Does your TT have EZ lube bearings/hubs? IOW, a zerk fitting to add grease.
Huntindog 11/20/19 01:32am Travel Trailers
RE: first report new springs with a surprize result

I have read of cases where bad alignment can cause poor MPGs.... Because the tires can act almost like a brake... But the tires would be wearing pretty fast in that case
Huntindog 11/18/19 04:02pm Tech Issues
RE: first report new springs with a surprize result

Hi, I replaced the springs and had a leaf added on each side. There were air bags that may have been improperly installed from the get go--7 inch bags in a 5 inch space, so the brackets torn away from the frame. The air bags have been replaced with timbrens, which do not touch the frame--but might if I had full water tanks (66 gallons). I put on new monro shocks at the rear. Results (big surprize). The RV rides 2.5 inches higher at the rear. Ride is improved And now the shock. It appears from early results that gas mileage has gone up by about 1.5 to 2 mpg. I've asked one mechanic and he is totally puzzled. Anyone care to offer an explanation?Raising the rear will change the alignment. Even a low tire will have an effect. In fact the first step a good mechanic does is setting the tire pressures to spec, when doing an alignment.... Having said that. I don't think it would change so much as to cause the results you are seeing. How does it drive? Monitor the tires for unsual wear. If that all checks out, it might be a good idea to get the alignment checked (not changed) so you can record the specs as to where it is set now... And use those specs from now on.
Huntindog 11/18/19 03:14am Tech Issues
RE: Space Heater

Huntingdog, In Arizona: The Time of Use plan charges 7.3 cents per kilowatt hour for off-peak summer hours and 24.1 cents per kilowatt hour for on-peak hours during July and August. 8 p.m.-3 p.m. the next day are off peak hours. 7.3 x 19 = $1.376 24.1 x 5 = $1.205 Total for 24 hours =~ $2.58 Where as in Saskatchewan I would pay .142 x 24 =~ $3.41 I don't know why you think power is cheaper where I live. The above numbers don't include taxes or delivery charges of which Saskatchewan has LOTS.I think your decimal points are wrong. 7.3 is more than .142 where I learned math. 24.1 is a lot more than .142 Please recheck and confirm.
Huntindog 11/18/19 01:27am Travel Trailers
RE: Space Heater

Sophisticated Inverter chargers can be limited to as low as 5 amps. That would allow 2 1500 watt heaters to be run, so long as the fridge is set to propane.What PT has done to his RVs electrical system is nothing short of amazing....My hat is off to him for what he has achieved in being able to manage his loads. Unfortunantly, that doesn't mean that other RVers are able to do the same.
Huntindog 11/18/19 12:39am Travel Trailers
RE: Space Heater

The assumption that you are making is that if you are plugged into a 30amp outlet, you are using that entire 30amps. Therefore if you also plug into the 20amp outlet, you are using more than authorized and "stealing". But you are not accounting for the actual usage. I may have two heaters but I can't plug them both into my RV outlets because the outlets are all on the same 15amp circuit breaker. So I run one off the 20amp outlet at the pedestal so it doesn't pop my breaker. But my actual electrical use is still under the 30amps that I'm paying for. Our electrical rates here have a major increase for a peak period. I can run 2X load during non-peak hours and still pay less than running X load during peak hours. So am I stealing if my greater usage cost is less than someone using less during the higher cost period?It is pretty much impossible to run two space heaters and stay under 30 amps. Normal TT loads such as the converter will put you over. That is why some here have found that their main breaker pops when they do it... Sooo, They then come up with workarounds.... Which puts them over a 30 amp draw. The only way you can possibly do it is if one of the space heater has a reduced wattage setting you can use. Otherwise, you will be over 30 amps This is just another of lifes inconveinent truths As for time of day peak charges.... That depends on the campgrounds electric plan. It is probably different than your plan. I know that in AZ we have several rate plans to choose from. But yes anytime you draw more than the 30amps you are paying for.... It is theft from the campground. It is a simple concept.. You have a 30 amp rig. Due to its design, it cannot use more than 30 amps without popping a breaker. The campground has every right to expect that you will not be using more than the rig was designed for.... If you run another cord, you are adding potential to draw above what your rig should be capable of. So you should pay for the higher rated service. Another inconveinient truth. PS... If you want to try it on your 30 amp main, just plug one of the heaters into your microwave outlet. It has its own breaker, so no cord to the pedastal needed.... And you can then be sure you are under 30 amps.... But I'll bet you lunch you will pop the main breaker.
Huntindog 11/17/19 05:51pm Travel Trailers
RE: F150 HD Payload and Max Trailer - How to spot them?

Have to be lucky to find one at a good price used. My boss likes to hit the auctions. He was all excited about one such Ford. Was telling me all about it. Said he was sure he could get it for under his 20K budget.... I told him that they were very highly sought after. Next day, he told me it went fo 40K. He was shocked. I don't remember the details year, mileage etc.
Huntindog 11/17/19 03:18pm Tow Vehicles
RE: 2020 silverado hd

been seeing that chevy's integrated brake controller won't work with disc brakes on trailer, (eoh setting) but can't find anything that confirms it. anybody have real experience whether true or not? I had not heard that. According to your info, do they say why?
Huntindog 11/17/19 03:08pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Space Heater

@ Huntindog I think where we disagree is calling it theft. Is the football team stealing at the buffet because they eat a lot of food? I'd say they paid the rate and ate all they could. Campers are doing the same thing. What you are essentially saying is you are not allowed to plug into the 20 amp outlet on the pedestal, because that constitutes theft. You are not basing the theft on how much electric a camper actually uses. You are basing it on camper hooking into the additional 20 amp outlet amp outlet. If CG's did not want those 20 amp outlets used it would be easy enough to remove them. Although I believe the GFCI maybe code in some places? The idea of theft is over the top. I have a 50 amp RV. I can and do use 3 space heaters for heat am I committing theft? Why is it theft when a 30 amp RV'er uses space heaters? What if a 30 amp RV'er plugs his electric griddle into the 20 amp outlet is that theft? Maybe it's not space heater detectives we need but 20 amp outlet enforcers that are needed to cut down on this new form of CG thievery No I do not think the theft word is where we disagree. Points I think we can all agree on: Electricity cost money. How fast one uses it costs money. The over all amount also costs money. Someone has to pay for it. Having set these points out, I will admit that I learned something in this thread. I always knew that Elec. rates varied wildly from location to location. But until PT posted his rates, I had no idea it was that cheap anywhere.... In AZ we would consider those rates free. We pay many times more than he does. And I know that AZ doesn't have the highest rates That may have some bearing on how some view this topic. Regardless, the principle is the same. If your campground has multiple rates for elec. IE: 30 amp, or 50 amp.... And you pay for 30 amp, then use a method to draw more than that.... It is theft period. Whether it is pennies or dollars makes little difference. I suspect those that see this as OK may be in a cheap elec area, and everyone is OK with it. But these RVs have wheels for a reason. Venture out enough, and you may be suprised.
Huntindog 11/17/19 12:35pm Travel Trailers
RE: Space Heater

Not at all. I think that whatever your 30 amp service can provide is justified. But some seem the think that running another cord from a seperate outlet is OK.... I do not. Some even have gone to the trouble of adding a seperate way to get the power into their 30 amp unit... That in my eyes is theft. Often the park operator will just overlook it, as they do not want a confrontation. It is kind of like shoplifting. Everyone pays for it in the form of higher prices. 50 amp service generally costs more, as the park understands the electricity use will be higher Well I have a separate outlet just for a space heater that plugs in to the 15 amp outlet. I have never been to a place that charges different fees for 30 or 50 amp service. So explain how having that outlet that makes me a thief. I do it to ease the load on the rv wiring. Broad generalizations really shouldn't be made. When you do such a mod to "ease" the load on your TTs 30 amp service,,,, It allows you to consume more than 30 amps...If and only IF the electric cost is the same at the park for 30 or 50 amp, then this would be OK.. It just means that the park has decided to make their 30 amp customers subsidize their 50 amp customers. But don't pull out the generalization line. We all know that electricity costs money. 50 amp service costs more than 30 amp service. Somebody will pay for it. The park is not in business to be a charity for those that try to cheat. You ARE making VERY broad generalizations. Why do you assume that every 30 amp rv is using a full 30 amps.I do not assume that. You are entitled to 30 amps 24/7, if that is what you are paying for. I have never used 30 amps. I know because I use much more power in the summer, and I have never tripped my or a campground breaker. People don't trip the breakers in general, meaning they are NOT using the full amount of their 30 or 50 amp rig. By the way, I deal with peak power rates at work daily, and being a controls person, I make sure the power demands stay within our peak limits. So I do understand what you are saying, I just think you are being overly harsh and making some large assumptions. No one is going to run their rigs at the ragged edge of tripping breakers.Ummm... Several people have stated that they have moded their rigs with seperate outlets to avoid tripping the breakers... Other speak of using a seperate cord just for the space heater....IOW, use more power than they are paying for. Or maybe you are running a campground that is going broke, and are looking for scapegoats? THAT IS JUST A JOKE!!!!!
Huntindog 11/17/19 02:24am Travel Trailers
RE: Space Heater

If the people who are using 30 amps + 15 amps are supposed to pay more, does that mean I get a discount for my van that only has a 15 amp service? I also don't use the sewer dump, the cable TV, and usually don't use the water hose. Do I get a discount for all these things? Again, out of context. If a park has seperate fees for 30 or 50 amp service, then one is not entitled to use more than that. Itf there were enough people only using 15 amps then you would likely see a lower fee for that use. Yes but if you think those running space heaters are committing theft Do you believe those using only 15 amps are entitled to refunds?I never said that spce heater use was theft. So long as you do not exceed the service you are paying for.... It is fine I imagine the CG sets their rate high enough to include those using space heaters, or those running 3 AC's etc. If the CG rate is not high enough to cover these worst case/max.use scenarios, than the CG's need to increase their rates. Actually yes, I do think they should be charged less.... Though I doubt, it would happen. The van people just are not a big enough part of the business to cater to. I can not believe how many people get this concept of not using more than you pay for so confused. Do you got to the grocery store, put some apples in a bag and eat some of them before checking out too? I imagine the store charges enough to cover the theft???? Actually they do. What those that bend the rules to their likeing may not realize is that they are stealing from everyone. The RV park and grocery store compensate for abuse/theft by raising prices for everyone. Your parents, best friend, your children, neighbors, The handicaped people, those struggling on social security, disabled vets, and everyone on this forum.... Even the ones you like. They all pay more because of this. But hey, pat yourself on the back, as you got it for free. Where your analogy is wrong is that you are comparing using unmetered electric to a finite purchase. The CG knows that every RV'ers electric use will be different. A van will likely use less than a 36' class A. A casita will use less than a 36'TT yet they all pay the same 30 amp rate. The difference in actual cost at the end of the day is negligible. Some will use more some will use less but the CG will be covered.Nope. You are not totally reading what I have been saying. IF a campground charges more for 50 amp than 30 amp.... And you make some sort of effort to be able to draw MORE than 30 amps, when you are paying for 30 amps....That is theft. It matters not if your site is metered or not. TH CG owner has a right to expect that a 30 amp rig will use no more than 30 amps. Several here have done mods, or talked about sneaking another cord to enable them to use more elec, than 30 amps. I have been consistent this entire thread on this... But so many seem not to understand it, or want to justify what they are doing as to make arguments leaving out the pertinent parts of my statements.... They are just trying to muddy the water so they can feel OK with using more than they are paying for. Or they have a reading comprehension problem. A better example is take the high school football team to the all you can eat buffet and take the ballerina squad to the buffet. I'm sure the football team is going to eat a whole lot more, but is that theft? Of course not. The owner has calculated how much food the average user will heat and set a profitable price. Sure my teenage son is going to eat 4 plate full, but there is a grandmother out there that will barely eat anything. There will be a few customers (football players) that you lose on and a few (grandmothers) that you win on. Overall the price is set to ensure profit. For every space heater electric hog, there is a van using 15 amp or a tent on a 30 amp site using minimal electric. CG's know that over the course of a short term stay they can estimate the usage apply a rate plus some and not worry about electric use. Do you really think CG owners are just gullible and are letting campers steal their electric as you imply? Now for longer stays and seasonal sites you often see metered electric because over a longer stay it becomes harder to estimate usage. The CG's understand what they are doing. Those that feel campers are taking advantage enact no heater rules. Mc fxost CG's it's easier to just raise the daily rate to cover the cost of electric. Than to There will always be a variable associated with electric usage, a heat wave or a cold spell will have an impact, the types of RV's renting sites will have an impact. RV appliance use will have a minimal impact. Do we need to charge more for multi battery RV's? How about those with Ice makers. Do we get into residential fridges.Electric water heaters vs.lp. What is the base electric usage? Without meters the CG doesn't really know. But more importantly they don't really care. They set a profitable rate and don't worry about it. Maybe they should hire "space heater police" to weed out the thieves.
Huntindog 11/17/19 02:16am Travel Trailers
RE: Space Heater

If the people who are using 30 amps + 15 amps are supposed to pay more, does that mean I get a discount for my van that only has a 15 amp service? I also don't use the sewer dump, the cable TV, and usually don't use the water hose. Do I get a discount for all these things? Again, out of context. If a park has seperate fees for 30 or 50 amp service, then one is not entitled to use more than that. Itf there were enough people only using 15 amps then you would likely see a lower fee for that use. Yes but if you think those running space heaters are committing theft Do you believe those using only 15 amps are entitled to refunds? I imagine the CG sets their rate high enough to include those using space heaters, or those running 3 AC's etc. If the CG rate is not high enough to cover these worst case/max.use scenarios, than the CG's need to increase their rates. Actually yes, I do think they should be charged less.... Though I doubt, it would happen. The van people just are not a big enough part of the business to cater to. I can not believe how many people get this concept of not using more than you pay for so confused. Do you got to the grocery store, put some apples in a bag and eat some of them before checking out too? I imagine the store charges enough to cover the theft???? Actually they do. What those that bend the rules to their likeing may not realize is that they are stealing from everyone. The RV park and grocery store compensate for abuse/theft by raising prices for everyone. Your parents, best friend, your children, neighbors, The handicaped people, those struggling on social security, disabled vets, and everyone on this forum.... Even the ones you like. They all pay more because of this. But hey, pat yourself on the back, as you got it for free.
Huntindog 11/16/19 06:23pm Travel Trailers
RE: Space Heater

If the people who are using 30 amps + 15 amps are supposed to pay more, does that mean I get a discount for my van that only has a 15 amp service? I also don't use the sewer dump, the cable TV, and usually don't use the water hose. Do I get a discount for all these things? Again, out of context. If a park has seperate fees for 30 or 50 amp service, then one is not entitled to use more than that. Itf there were enough people only using 15 amps then you would likely see a lower fee for that use.
Huntindog 11/16/19 12:20pm Travel Trailers
RE: Space Heater

The campground sets the price. If it includes power, then I am not "stealing". That idea is ludicrous.It is if you take more than you pay for.... I don't know how many times I have to say it.... IF you are paying for 30 amp service, then you are entitled to draw 30 amps. Not 40, 50 etc. but 30. If the campgound has just one set price for any electric service, (30 or 50) then you are entitled to use more. Apparently you did not read what I wrote. "The campground sets the price". If I use what they provide I am NOT stealing. If I plugged into a 2nd pedestal--that would be theft. If I pay for 30 amps and use 24 (maximum continuous load), it is not. And I never said anything different. On edit: BUT>>>> This does not entitle you to us 40 amps one hour, and 20 the next. Electricity cost money. The amount of electricty cost money. AND How fast you use it also costs money. The campgound has a right to expect that a 30 amp rig will only draw 30 amps at any given time.
Huntindog 11/16/19 10:06am Travel Trailers
RE: Space Heater

The campground sets the price. If it includes power, then I am not "stealing". That idea is ludicrous.It is if you take more than you pay for.... I don't know how many times I have to say it.... IF you are paying for 30 amp service, then you are entitled to draw 30 amps. Not 40, 50 etc. but 30. If the campgound has just one set price for any electric service, (30 or 50) then you are entitled to use more.
Huntindog 11/16/19 08:22am Travel Trailers
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