RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Search

RV Blog

  |  

RV Sales

  |  

Campgrounds

  |  

RV Parks

  |  

RV Club

  |  

RV Buyers Guide

  |  

Roadside Assistance

  |  

Extended Service Plan

  |  

RV Travel Assistance

  |  

RV Credit Card

  |  

RV Loans

Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Posting Help and Support  |  Contact  



Open Roads Forum  >  Search the Forums

 > Your search for posts made by 'Itinerant1' found 166 matches.

Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 9  
Next
  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Looking for the biggest 12v HDTV out there

https://www.12volt-travel.com/12-volt-televisions-c-684.html Up to 40"
Itinerant1 05/24/20 07:31pm Tech Issues
RE: Disposing of old absorption refrigerator

When I changed over to Amish cooling unit I took the old cooling unit to the scrap yard (recycling center), wasn't worried about getting a couple bucks for it just easier to properly dispose of it.
Itinerant1 05/19/20 01:52pm Tech Issues
RE: Lithium Battery Question

http://www.xantrex.com/documents/Accessories/LinkLite-Battery-Monitor/LinkLITE_Operation(975-0428-01-01_rev-B).pdf Don't see a program for charging efficiency. Do see the one for Peukert--change that to 1.05 (I saw somewhere) Need to kill auto-sync but can't see where. Don't like that idea the battery is full just because the charger dropped to float voltage. That is just nutty IMO. Maybe I don't understand that part. ( I don't like the way Trimetric does it either) It said to make sure the wires on the shunt are twisted or else your amps reading will be off. (The Trimetric wire comes with them twisted, don't know about LinkLite's.) LinkLite wires are twisted (by ME - lol). With Li, the only feasible way I can see to determine ‘batt full’ is when battery current (zero) and voltage (maximum) have been holding steady for awhile, though (based on historical energy consumption) I don’t run the Li down to the lower range of DOD, the displayed SOC is an adequate approximate...I’ve yet to try the Coulomb counting method...Having said that (nuances aside), with solar I believe there’s little need to try and keep the batt full except for an occasional balancing of cells - the nice thing about Li is the uber expansive operating range where as a practical matter voltage drop becomes mostly irrelevant...JMO X2, sometimes close is good enough. ;)
Itinerant1 05/12/20 12:05pm Tech Issues
RE: Lithium Battery Question

@BFL13 the balancers need a certain voltage per cell/ mini pack (series/ parallel packs) inside the dropin, if the voltage is bouncing 14.x then 13.x it's not keeping the cells in the bms vpc range.
Itinerant1 05/12/20 08:44am Tech Issues
RE: Lithium Battery Question

Anyway, almost immediately after reaching a full charge I could ‘twice see’ the current and voltage ‘momentarily cycle’ from zero amps/14.3v to about 5.5a/13.9v (per LinkLite) only to (after each rapid cycling...) quickly return to zero amps/14.3v and holding ...Per previous evaluations, this seems to be a ‘tell-tale’ sign of end-of-charge BMS cell balancing - thereafter (PD charger still in boost mode) both current and voltage continued to hold FIRM at zero amps/14.3v to denote the completion of this balancing act... 3 tons The way I understand it with dropin batteries once the batteries reach full voltage (14.x whatever recommended by manufacturer) they need to be held there for a period of time so the cells can balance. What you're describing it sounds like the cells aren't going through the full balancing period but without being able to see the individual cells or mini packs inside it's just a guess.
Itinerant1 05/12/20 07:08am Tech Issues
RE: Lithium Battery Question

Is there any surface charge on Li after being charged that you have to knock down to get a proper voltage reading? If so, is it any harder/easier to get rid of than with Wets? If you get to full at 14.x, stop the charge, and let the Li sit no load, what voltage does it drop to right away and how long before it gets to 13.2? I don't have the exact answer you're after from my experience with them, this is the closest I've come to resting voltage or being able to get any readings when not in fulltime use when living off grid. This is from last night coming out of float after the controller went into sleep mode. Float voltage 13.60v, I missed exactly when it switched over was out walking the dogs but you get the idea. 20:45 99% SOC 13.45v -2.4a load 21:10 99% 13.41V -2.4a 21:40 99% 13.38v -2.4a 22:00 98% 13.36v -2.4a 05:45 93% 13.34v -2.4a 06:30 92% 13.34v -2.4a Last night the low was only 43f instead of 36/37f previous nights so the furnace didn't run as much and morning SOC a couple % higher.
Itinerant1 05/12/20 06:30am Tech Issues
RE: Lithium Battery Question

Here is an example of using voltage and trying to gauge SOC. After my batteries charge to 14.1v, I'll float at 13.6v with solar. When the controller goes to sleep the only 12v loads running are the co/lp detector, inside fridge fans, little draw from my Senseboards on the batteries and the furnace when cycling through the night. The lfp voltage curve is so flat that even at 91% SOC this morning at 0545 (solar controller still in sleep mode) batteries reading 13.32v when the furnace kicked on voltage dropped to 13.30v Resting voltage for lfp is 13.2- 13.3v. Best to have away to count amps going in and out. ;)
Itinerant1 05/11/20 07:16am Tech Issues
RE: Lithium Battery Question

I'll be in an rv park for few weeks maybe longer depends on work. When I first had the system installed I was in and out of rv parks for a couple months and never worried about leaving the the LFP batteries floating at 13.6v continuously while living off of pedestal power. I figured I'd try something different this time. I set the Magnum inverter/ charger to 50a (plugged into 50a service) and turned the charger off so 120v power is just passing through supplying the daily loads and letting the solar charge the batteries of what little was used during the night while the batteries carry the 12v loads (furnace, inside fridge fans, co/ lp detector), but if the there is a power outage the inverter is still on ready to switch back to batteries. When the sun goes down the solar controller goes in to sleep mode no stress on the batteries which settle down to 13.25 - 13.3v through the night. I forgot to look at the actual battery display, the inverter display was showing 13.2v From roughly 6pm to 6am the DOD is 10% or 50ah cycling the furnace, fridge fans, detector. That little bit of cycling is so mild compared to when I'm boondocking with 30% - 45% (150-225ah). During the day I'll float using solar after the batteries get full, if there is a power outage I'll be ready to go with batteries topped off. I believe this will give the best all around compromise while still ready with a full or near full batteries that aren't stressed. Couple PT readings from the past days while doing this. https://i.imgur.com/T9kyMoWl.png
Itinerant1 05/10/20 10:05am Tech Issues
RE: Lithium Battery Question

I don't know how the dropin batteries work as far as disconnecting that's why I asked. On my system there are 2 solenoids, an over voltage disconnect and under voltage disconnect which will stop the charging or discharging but keep the batteries powered. For instance at the tail end of last year I had a sense board go out on one of my strings which shut the entire system down (dead in the water) one of the safety features of my system is it has to see all 20 cells or it will shut down protecting the batteries. I had to do a 5 minute rewire to bypass the selenoids but doing this I was using my batteries without any protection at all. After 3.5 years and felt fairly confident that if I lowered my charging to 13.9v and kept 13.6 float I should be ok. I got busy doing other things for 3 months and by the time a got new sense boards installed and rewired the solenoids back for protection I set the generator like usual to charge at 100a and set absorb voltage to 14.2v. During the absorb I had 1 cell that would go to 3.8v (the balancer wasn't able to burn off enough) which would disconnect charging but still kept the batteries powered (it would do this with solar also). I had to lower my charging to 14.0v absorb which was keeping that one cell from hitting 3.8v and letting the balancers start doing their thing of charging the other cells and catch up. It took about 2 weeks of doing this in steps of 14.0v, 14.1v, 14.2v after all the cell got within 40mv of each other like they always have been I lowered it back to 14.1v and all is good. I should also note it took that long for the SOC capacity to reset itself because it could never get the voltage per cell high enough for a reset.
Itinerant1 05/09/20 11:46pm Tech Issues
RE: Lithium Battery Question

Fyi, as individual cells charge or discharge you could have a cell that could go rogue. The bms for over voltage in 3 tons case is 3.9 vpc which should shut the the charging down or turn the battery off depending on how it's setup. The passive balancing should take care of this but incase there is a runner one cell could get there, the likely hood of all cells doing it is very unlikely. This is why you need to have properly setup charging system that stops charging first and the battery bms is the last line of defense. 3 tons does your battery shut down completely if there cell over voltage or cell under voltage event or does it just disconnect the charging or discharging?
Itinerant1 05/09/20 10:14pm Tech Issues
RE: Lithium Confusion

In the past 4 years I haven't turned the inverter off since the install, so that won't be a problem. Thanks for the info.
Itinerant1 05/07/20 06:57pm Tech Issues
RE: Lithium Confusion

@pianotuna I'll update about the solar panels running the AC in a month or so. I had to go into an rv park in Montana so I ordered the Micro-Air easy start . I'll install it and run the 5 learning cycles while I have pedestal power. This camp is heavily treed and I'll have to wait for a test run with solar for the results.;)I think you may want to do the learning in the worst conditions such as generator alone or generator with inverter assist. Does not seem right to program for an excellent power source. May not matter, check the instructions. I thought that the 5 cycle learning curve for the Micro-air had to be from shore power that's the only reason that I waited this long because I didn't want to go in to an rv park just for that. The only reason I'm in this one is I didn't want to stay in a hotel during this covid-19 and brought my 5th wheel. I much prefer boondocking than rv parks and after 3.5 years not being in one can't wait to get out of it and it's only day 1 with only me in it so far with 56 spaces. This couple of months will just remind us how spoiled we were boondocking and have us appreciating it more when we get back to it. The only thing I'm doing different now on pedestal power is enjoying the electric fireplace with heat coming from it. We did use boondocking for the ambiance without heat.
Itinerant1 05/07/20 04:36am Tech Issues
RE: Lithium Confusion

@pianotuna I'll update about the solar panels running the AC in a month or so. I had to go into an rv park in Montana so I ordered the Micro-Air easy start . I'll install it and run the 5 learning cycles while I have pedestal power. This camp is heavily treed and I'll have to wait for a test run with solar for the results.;) Itinerant1, Magnum doesn't recommend running air conditioners on the 3000 watt hybrid inverter/chargers. Mine is a Dometic 13500, equipped with microair. I've tried everything I can to make it possible, but the red over load on the remote comes on. I can run the roof air on the Magnum, but it doesn't like it. red light I can run the roof air with Magnum on load support from the generator. red light I can run the roof air directly from the generator. I tried putting the autoformer between the generator and the shore power cord--but I had limited the Magnum to 24 amps input. That failed to run the roof air. This summer, if we get out of lock down, I'll try again with the autoformer and the Magnum opened up on input to say 30 amps. That's about 2 amps greater than the surge value on the Yamaha generator. If that doesn't work then I'll set it for 50 amps and see what happens. May you have better luck with the LI batteries and larger solar system, than I have. If I ever have to replace the Magnum, I'll go to either Victron or Outback. I use load support a great deal. It seems that you have put it to the test and the results are not great. Maybe with load support, eu2200i and solar. Last year when I was exercising my older eu2000i generator and was getting good sun on the panels, there was 160a being dumped into the lfp batteries. I'm hoping now that with easy start a eu2200i and solar I don't get the red light. I'll let you know the results. Victron seems very impressive and that would probably be what I would go with if starting from scratch again but haven't done any hardcore homework on it, for what I have used my system for the past 4 years living off of it I am very satisfied but having the AC would be nice and if it doesn't happen it won't be the end of the world seeing we have survived this long without it.
Itinerant1 05/07/20 03:56am Tech Issues
RE: Lithium Confusion

@pianotuna I'll update about the solar panels running the AC in a month or so. I had to go into an rv park in Montana so I ordered the Micro-Air easy start . I'll install it and run the 5 learning cycles while I have pedestal power. This camp is heavily treed and I'll have to wait for a test run with solar for the results.;)
Itinerant1 05/06/20 10:04pm Tech Issues
RE: Lithium Battery Question

Whether you are doing a diy or a dropin they both have the same thing in initial setup and that's getting the cells balanced. With top balancing put the cells in series, if using a bench power supply set to 3.65v or whatever you want as your end voltage charge till zero amp, reassemble in parallel let cells self balance if need be and your good to go. Make your 12/24/48 volt pack. My particular setting as mentioned before. Charging Source: Solar_Magnum PT100, max 80a (.16c) Charging Source: Magnum Inverter/ Charger, max 125a (.25c) Absorb Voltage:14.1v (3.52 vpc) Absorb Time: 10 minutes the least it can be set for, 6 minutes is usual amount of time it lasts. Float Voltage: 13.6v (3.4 vpc) BMS Inverter LVD: 12.0v Cell LVD: 2.8v (30 sec delay) Cell HVD: 3.8v (3 sec delay) Temperature: 32°F (30 sec delay), 150°f (30 sec delay) April 2016 systems been on 24/ 7/ 365 with these settings.
Itinerant1 05/04/20 09:51am Tech Issues
RE: Lithium Battery Question

There is also the business about "top balancing" where one cell gets to full and the others then catch up (if I have that right). That needs to be related to just what "full" means to the monitor. If the AH count continues while the other cells catch up (but you don't want the one that got there first to go any higher) that might confuse the heck out of a typical monitor, don't know. There are two basic approaches to balancing: 1. Passive balancing drains charge from cells having too much charge and dissipates drained energy as heat. 2. Active balancing moves charge from “high cells” to “low cells,” attempting to conserve energy in the battery pack. Most batteries have "passive" (cheaper), depending on how the bms is set for at what cell voltage this starts at, it's why the dropins needs to be charged at a higher voltage and held longer for the cell to balance. My Senseboards will start at 3.55vpc but rarely happens, I charge to 14.1v (3.52vpc) and all cells are within 40mv of each other after 4 years. The bonus of actually being able to see all cell voltages within the pack.
Itinerant1 05/03/20 09:49pm Tech Issues
RE: Norcold 1210 gets a makeover with Amish cooling unit and ARP

My experience with a Norcold 821 (absorbtion) fridge and changing to an Amish cooling unit has been great. Before the change I would have to run the fridge at setting 6-8 out of 9 depending on the season. After the change it gets set at 1 or 2 and holds the fridge temp 35-39f with freezer items frozen, ice cream frozen not soft. I did add a 3 fan unit on the inside fins so maybe that helps also, the fin have not had ice on them now in 2 years of full time use.
Itinerant1 05/02/20 09:23am Tech Issues
RE: Lithium Battery Question

If you have an inverter/ charger and can be programmed and change charge voltage settings that's all that needed.
Itinerant1 04/30/20 09:58am Tech Issues
RE: Lithium Confusion

There's a 15k Carrier Air V on the 5th wheel it's a no go, shuts the Magnum down. I need to add a soft start, luckily I can move with the weather while boondocking. I've tired it with the eu2000i and it's hit and miss for shutting the Magnum down on start up. Maybe the eu2200i I just got will be able to handle the startup? I tapped into the furnace heat duct where it ends above where the batteries are in the front compartment. I can pull the cap off the end of the tube when below freezing temps. This was keeping batteries in the upper 30s to low 40s while it was single digits outside during the night and below freezing during the day. https://i.imgur.com/mV3bleyl.jpg
Itinerant1 04/22/20 01:45pm Tech Issues
RE: Lithium Confusion

If you need to have exact performance # read white papers not forums. In all the info that I have posted from hands on experience at all different SOCs with heavy draw items and knowing it's during a winter month before the sun has rose than maybe you should stay with your present science project. Are you actually going to get Lifepo4 or just like to nit pick something you have no clue about or understand?
Itinerant1 04/22/20 08:54am Tech Issues
Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 9  
Next


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:




© 2020 CWI, Inc. © 2020 Good Sam Enterprises, LLC. All Rights Reserved.