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 > Your search for posts made by 'JBarca' found 24 matches.

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RE: *UPDATE* ST tires any better nowadays?

I know money is always tight, but I'll pass this along on the tires you have now. Starting at year 3 of them, do a spin test looking for an out of round tire at the start of every spring there after. Just because they are LT tires does not mean excessive interply shear is not lurking in the background. I went with the Bridgestone Duravis R238's LT225/75R16 LR E's after the BFG Commercial TA's failed. Not the less expensive way, but after flying tread tore the camper apart, and already doing a 16" LT upgrade, going as bullet proof as you can is worth it when the pain gets high enough. Here is that post. I need to give an update. LT Tire Replacements - All season Happy camping this year. John I got just over 4 years with the BFG Commercial's before one failed. I saw the bulge and got it off before it let go. After 5 1/2 years (6 from date of manufacturer) running the Bridgestone Duravis R250's in LT235/85R16 without a issue I replaced with the Sailun S637. Hope the Duravis R238's serve you as well as Duravis R250's did us. Thanks, good to know
JBarca 07/08/19 06:25pm Travel Trailers
RE: *UPDATE* ST tires any better nowadays?

UPDATE: Thought I would come back here and close the loop on this. The new Goodyear ST tires are VERY pricey, so I opted for another low-budget set of LT225/75-16E from the local Mavis Tire. The Brand is Taiga, made by Vee Rubber, made in Thailand. Even still it was $600 out the door, about $200 cheaper than a set of the Goodyear Endurance STs. Taking the old tires off was a real eye opener...I got new rims, so I had the tire shop mount the new tires on the new rims, and put them on the trailer at home. I also replaced the Trail Air equalizers and greased the suspension. This is what the suspect tire looked like on the trailer: https://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y134/Burbman/20190603_194904_zps1rfczfbb.jpg width=640 Once I got it off and put it next to the rear one you get a different view: https://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y134/Burbman/20190630_131818_zpsyzfvftl2.jpg width=640 Hard to believe these two tires are the same size. The other front tire was starting to do the same which was why I replaced the equalizers, they were worn out and shifting too much of the load to the front axle and overloading the front tires. I also saw this from my TPMS, where the front tires were running 10* hotter than the rear ones. Now back in business and ready for the next trip! Hi Don, From what I have seen on my ST and LT tire failures of detachment of the belts and tread, I'm not seeing how the worn out equalizer caused the belt to let go in that tire. How did you come to that conclusion? May learn something new here and looking forward to it. I would point more to an interply shear issue from the tandem axle turns trying to rip the treads off the tire. Have you weighed the camper lately? I know money is always tight, but I'll pass this along on the tires you have now. Starting at year 3 of them, do a spin test looking for an out of round tire at the start of every spring there after. Just because they are LT tires does not mean excessive interply shear is not lurking in the background. I went with the Bridgestone Duravis R238's LT225/75R16 LR E's after the BFG Commercial TA's failed. Not the less expensive way, but after flying tread tore the camper apart, and already doing a 16" LT upgrade, going as bullet proof as you can is worth it when the pain gets high enough. Here is that post. I need to give an update. LT Tire Replacements - All season Happy camping this year. John
JBarca 07/05/19 08:27pm Travel Trailers
RE: Atwood/Dometic Stove regulator 51062

1. I would indeed suspect the Dometic Stove reg's are bad. But, I doubt Dometic will fess up. It took months last year to get Dometic to agree that the Atwood Water heater Control boards on thousands of DSI water heaters were faulty. They then replaced them. Probably the same thing now. Their supplier has built faulty regulators and it will take time for the bad ones to show up in service centers before Dometic realizes the problem. You need to contac Dometic and explain in detail your testing process so they will understand that they are dealing with someone that knows RV LP systems. Hopefully they will want all your regulators back for testing. BTW, it is RARE got the Range/stove regulator to go bad. Usually they just leak. Doug I wanted to give an update. I'm not getting very far and I'm close to a dead end with Dometic. I started this with buying 3, new 51062 stove regulators. Two from one place, one from a second place. All 3 of them would not regulate, they would just pass whatever the tank regulator was sending. Even when the tank regulator was sending 14" WC, downstream of the stove regulator was at 14"WC, even with a burner running. I explained my testing method in the first post of this thread. So I bought 3 more new ones from a third supplier. I tested the first one and the same thing, it would not regulate down the pressure. I have 2 more still in the package. Then I started to look at the mfg dates and the serial numbers. They are all very close together. They must all be drop shipped from the same Dometic warehouse as 3 vendors selling them can’t have stock that close together. I called Dometic 3 times trying to get some form of resolution. The first call, the tech would talk to me. I explained exactly how I did the test. He listened and had to talk to a master tech. When he came back, he stated the regulator will no longer drop the pressure. I stated years back I had some that did drop the pressure, just these new ones will not. He stated the old ones did, but the new ones will not. I tried to ask then what does the regulator do? He stated it helps make the stove burn more even. I asked, OK how does it do this if it does not regulate? There are only 4 parts in the regulator, a spring, a spring pressure adjusting screw, a diaphragm and the poppet valve. I can see them. He said he didn't know but the new ones do not drop the pressure. He said he would send me some information on them. Nothing has showed up in 2 weeks. I called again today, this time I get a new tech. They will not talk to me as I have no dealer number. I explained my situation of repairing campers but I’m not a Dometic dealer. I stated, all I want to do is report a potential warranty issue, how I tested it and the results. I do not need technical help. I can even send them back and you test them. He said they ship 6,000 of these a week and no one has complained they do not work. He would not even talk more about it. I asked who in the company can I report this potential warranty issue to, he said there is no one. They do not have the engineering staffing to do this. I could tell I was getting nowhere, ended it with have a good day and that was the end. I called back again a 3rd time to the customer service and got the same nice person who forwarded me to the tech. She went over and talked to him. She said for liability reasons they cannot talk about technical things like this without a dealer number. I explained, all I want to do is report the issue, I can even send them back to you and you test them. She did not know how to respond to that. She was kind enough to give me an email address I could write in explaining what I found and she would send it to a supervisor. So that is where I'm at. I did look up the Seven Universe website (Seven Universe is who makes these now) and the GR60 LP regulator has an outlet pressure setting of 8" WC ~ 10" WC. It can pass 60,000 BTU's per hour. It is a pressure regulator. I have the 2015 Atwood range service manual where it states all the new Atwood ranges use the Seven Universe brand regulators and they are to regulate to 10"WC down from up to a 13" WC pressure at the main tank regulator. I was going to explain this too, but I was never able to get this far. I am not sure when Atwood Mobile sold out to Dometic, if Dometic actually changed the way the regulators work. The 2015 manual I have is now 4 years old and I do not know if there us a new one. It makes no sense to me they would be selling the same part number, 51062, to interchange into all the old Atwood ranges if they somehow changed the way the regulator is supposed to work. Has anyone else recently tested some of these current mfg Seven Universe regulators? The mfg dates on the 6 I have, 2 are from 11/15/18 and 4 are from 1/16/19. Right now I do not know how to buy one that will work. Unless I change brands and use the one Suburban ranges use. Do not really want to do that. Thanks for listening. Anything you can add is much appreciated.
JBarca 06/14/19 10:30am Tech Issues
RE: Suspenson

If you are SURE that there is no wear in the equalizers, then you don't need them. I'll second this. You need to measure the bore on the equalizer, a set of calipers will work if you don't have inside mic's. Especially the center pin on the equalizer. That pin gets more motion and thus in many cases wears more. If the equalizer hole is worn and not true round, the new bronze bushings will crack over time. Those thin bronze bushings need 100% support by the bore to not crack. In my book, 0.003" oval wear is not good. 0.005" and above is just plain bad. As far as quality, I have used both the Dexter and the Mor-Ryde. Both are very good products. If your nylon bushings are worn through, which can very well happen in 8,000 miles on a heavy tow hauler, odds are high the equalizer bore is going to be affected. If you do not have the tools to measure with in 3 place decimal inches, (or 2 place metric) then just buy the new Dexter kit with the equalizer. The bronze is then already inserted when you get it. HEADS up! Make sure you align the grease fittings holes correctly before inserting the spring pins in the hanger. 9:00 & 3:00, no 6:00. If not, the grease will not go in. And check that the spring/equalizer pin heads do not rotate in the hanger. If the hanger is worn and will not bit into the pin serrations, you need to address this. Pins that spin are no good for long term. Hope this helps John
JBarca 05/28/19 07:30pm Travel Trailers
RE: Upgrade my Fastway E2?

John, thanks for taking the time to reply. I wanted to stop at a CAT scale and weigh since it was one of the few times we have had the new trailer loaded, albeit light but the DW wanted to get home today. We really packed light for this trip since it was just a weekend get away 2 hours down the intestate. Clothes and groceries for the 4 of us don't amount to much and I never tow with more than 5-10 gal of water in the FW tank so that doesn't amount to much. As my kids get older (now 15 and 10) I find them packing less toys and junk and more electronics or board games so I think the trend of loading heavy is a thing of the past. Yes, that's my TT in the link. The trailer rides fairly level on a newer 2.5" drop shank I bought last year and I'm using 6 washers on the trunion angle thrust as Fastyway recommends but the ball seems to be straight up and down, not angled like I have seem some Equalizers set up. I thought I had some understeer and adjusted the bar perches up one but that didn't seem to help with either the steering or sway on the way home today. I again experienced some moderate gusts (20-25 mph) that seem to push the TT around a bit more than I was comfortable with but it wasn't as bad as Friday's winds. I have newer AT tires with about 1000 miles on them and ran the rear tires around 68 PSI instead of the full 80. I dropped the PSI several weeks ago to soften the unloaded ride but failed to air them back up for the trip. Anyway, I think I'm going to price a 1200 Equilizer and see if I can swing it. We are headed to South Dakota in June and I really want to get this sway issue handled before then so I'm not so fatigued from driving in windy conditions. Your welcome and glad to try and help. And thank you for your service! A few things stand out in your reply. Good feedback and this helps. There is no one thing you can throw at this to fix all the issues. Any one or a combo of them can create what you are feeling in the truck. If you want to figure out what is not working right, you have to look at "all" the areas in the list I posted. Yes, I know this is going to take time to do it. But it is the only way to sort this out. I have been there myself and helped others get out of their issue too. If you have optimized all of them, then you at least know that. Right now, you do not have much data to help guide you. This is going to be a process of elimination. Here goes. I had some time tonight so I typed it out. We respect you for asking to help make this better. And it can and will in time. The loaded tongue weight (TW) is critical to a stable towing camper. If this it not where it should be, there is no friction based anti sway of any brand that is going to overcome it. Figure out how to make time to load the camper the way you tow it and get the loaded gross weight and just the trailer TW. And since you are going to the scale, load the truck the way you go camping too. We can get to that more in a bit on how the truck plays into this. There is one thing that "use" to shock me every time I went to the scales. Darn, where did all this weight come from? I was lightly loaded, I thought. Trust me, we all have our camping stuff and all those 20#'s here and 10#'s there all adds up. You never really know how much you have or don't have, until you weigh the camper. Being too light on TW is a bad thing. I have finally come to grips with how much stuff weighs and how to adjust the camper loading in my favor and not against me. Next is the adjustment of the WD hitch. A question, which Fastway do you have, the round bar or the trunnion bar hitch? I made a guess it was the trunnion but maybe not. So tell us. I skimmed over their instructions here https://www.fastwaytrailer.com/pdf/e2_Trunnion_Instructions_2016-06.pdf And I agree with the end principle of how they want WD on the on truck set. It is targeting for between 50% and up to 100% front axle load restoration. Which means, you restored 50% as a minimum of the weight removed from the truck front axle by using and adjusting the WD hitch. Your 2017 F250 manual is talking "approximately" 50%. The number is not an absolute, if you are 55%, 60% and even 75% is not a bad thing in some cases. Going to 100% or over 100% creates other issues. Going a lot less then the 50% can have other issues especially trying to make the friction based WD hitch anti sway work right. So now you have a target to shoot for. Did you take any fender height measurements? and if so what are they? You stated the 6 washers that Fastway recommends, that may have been taken out of context. Fastway stated to "start" with 6 washers. And if you read later on, it states to add more as needed first to gain more WD on the truck and then do an L bracket move if head tilt does not shift enough weight back to the front of the truck. You really cannot go by only how many washers and if the ball does not look tilted like other Equal-I-er hitches. Your goal is what is the front axle weights and fender heights doing. Once you get the trailer TW set in the 12 to 15 % range, then you need to start over on re-setting the WD on the truck. The WD on the truck has to be optimized, the WD bars fairly parallel to the frame and the hitch shank adjusted "after" setting the WD to level out the TT or be slight nose down. This is optimizing the WD and the anti-sway setup. Next on the list is the tires. You have 2 things going on that can create great havoc on towing. You are running low tire pressure. That can be real bad. The front and rear tires need to have stiff "enough" sidewalls to not have the truck wiggle around. There is no high friction anti sway WD hitch that will correct soggy truck tires. Air the tires up to door sticker and start from there. If you know the trailer TW is in the right percentage, the WD hitch is setup optimized along with the anti-sway system, then the tires have to do their part. The good news, you have the right truck suspension. I'm assuming your rear door sticker is around 80psi. If so , set it there and the front at door sticker too. This then leaves the front tires as the only adjustment left "above" door sticker. Test tow the setup and if the truck still feels it shifts left and right with high wind gusts or other sway producing events, then start going up by 5psi jumps until you either you reach max cold side pressure of the tire OR the truck front end bounces so hard going over a bump, it felt like shifted left to right. That bounce effect is too high a pressure, back it down 5 psi. This optimizes the tire pressure. A gasser can bounce this hard. A diesel not so much. Next is, you only have 1,000 miles on fairly new AT tread tires. This is a wild card some call, tire squirm and the more aggressive AT thread may aggravate it even more. What brand do you have? and what size and load range? One of us may be able to spot if that brand is one of the newer molded tires that has what feels like a friction loss of the tire until it gets broken in about 3,000 miles. The truck is part of this too. Ideally someone with a F250 can chime in on what brand they had that gave them heartburn. This is a real issue for us towing large campers. I can tell you that Continental Contitrac TR's that are now being produced will set a 2005 F350 off into an instability it never had before until they get about 3 to 4K miles on them. The prior 2 sets never did this, but the ones last year did. Something in the industry has changed in tire molding as others have reported other brands doing the same thing. And I can say that Michelin LTX tires have their issues too with low pressure. Air up enough and they can work better. While this tire squirm is a factor, you can adjust the air pressure now. You do not know yet of the tire squirm is a factor in your setup, yet as you have not yet optimized all the other areas. You mentioned going to a 1,200# Equal-I-zer hitch, how do you know the 1,200# rated hitch is the right one? Your camper has a GVWR 9,250#. When the camper is fully loaded, 1,200 might be too small. Then you have to either unload gear or go buy the 1,400# Equal-I-zer. It would be best to weigh the loaded TW of what you have now and then make a decision. You might be sitting at 1,100# right now and being that close, the 1,200 may not be enough once you get the TW up where it needs to be. Another reason to get the weights first and then make choices. If and when you go to the scale, try and adjust the WD hitch to get the front axle fender heights where they should be before going. When you get to the scales, you need to come back with 3 sets of weights. (means 3 weight slips) This is assuming you are using a 3 section truck scale. Each weight set will have the; TV frt axle on 1st scale, TV rear axle on 2nd scale and both TT axle tires on 3rd scale. These are the 3 weight sets: 1. Drive on the scales, TT and TV loaded, TT hitched and WD engaged (hooked up). Take a weight. 2. Do not move the truck. Jack up the tongue, unhook the WD bars, let the jack back down and the jack foot free from touching the scale. The truck is taking full tongue weight of the camper on the ball. Take a weight. This is, TT and TV loaded, TT hitched and WD diss-engaged (No WD in effect. it is not hooked up). 3. Hook up the WD bars and drive off the scales with the camper. Unhitch the camper in the truck yard, come back with just the truck. Weigh front and rear truck axle. This is truck loaded weight with no camper. With those 3 weight sets you can check all of these: Truck and TT combined axle loads against their ratings The gross combined load against the truck rating The truck GVW against the GVWR The camper tongue weight The camper gross weight The loaded camper TW percentage Confirm the WD settings on the TV front axle and see if the WD hitch is actually setup correctly by weight. Hope all this helps and let us know how it goes. John
JBarca 05/20/19 08:41pm Towing
RE: Upgrade my Fastway E2?

Hi, I looked up your camper, is this it? https://www.jayco.com/tools/archive/2018-jay-flight/28bhbe/ Looking at the spec's of the camper, the way the tongue weight balance is made into the camper, when the camper is empty (dry) it only has 9.76% tongue weight per the empty gross weight (dry weight) of the camper. Point being, with a dry tongue weight that low you have to be careful how you load the camper. You need to know the "loaded" tongue weight (TW) of the camper and the total loaded camper weight. Get that loaded TW higher up, shoot for 13% to 15%. There is a lot of cargo capacity in that camper (CCC 2,735#) . By adding enough gear and cargo to the camper, if you add 1,200# of cargo, (not hard to do with kids) that brings the estimated gross weight to 7,715 # and 13% of that is 1,003#. More gear and or carrying water and the TW needs to even get higher. First thing, weigh the camper loaded like your last bad day on the road trip. And weigh the tongue weight for that loading and sort out where your tongue weight percentage is. If it is low, move gear around to get it up where it needs to be. Look up Sherline Tongue scale. You can get one once you have a scaled gross weight, you can move gear around at home and measure the new TW with the Sherline. With a camper 33' 5" long the entire camper and truck setup has to be dialed in perfect. You have a good truck, but it needs the camper and the WD hitch setup spot on optimized. And truck tire pressure too. I do think sooner or later you will need a larger capacity WD hitch as you will exceed the 1,000# bars with a camper GVWR of 9,250#. A camper that big and long loaded close to max will easily go over the 1,000# WD bars. A few other things, The Fastway E2 needs good tongue weight to make the anti sway work. It needs the TW to create the high friction to help hold the trailer. If you were towing with fresh water in the tanks, does that add or subtract loaded TW? You need to know this if you haul water during towing. Before changing WD hitches, make sure you understand what is not optimized in your setup and fix that first. Here is a list to start with. 1. Weigh the truck and camper loaded the way it created the problem. Get an actual gross camper weight and a loaded tongue weight of the camper. 2. TT needs 13 to 15% loaded TW per loaded GVW to create naturally stable towing of the trailer. Move gear as needed to have this. 3. The WD hitch has to be setup and optimized for the "loaded" camper TW. If the dealer set it up with an empty trailer and empty truck, the settings are not right for a loaded camper. It needs to be readjusted. Make sure the truck and camper is loaded "normal" for camping before you set the WD hitch up. 3A. Part of WD hitch setup is the camper towing stance. Shoot for a level towing camper. Adjust the WD hitch up or down the shank until the camper is level or slight nose down when the WD on the truck is correct. Get a new hitch shank if the one you have will not allow enough adjustment to level out the camper or slight nose down. A high nose on the camper can create unstable towing sometimes on high winds. 4. Make sure the TW aligns with the WD bars and the hitch are at or less then the hitch rating. Do not overload the WD hitch. 5. Tire pressure on the camper and the truck can make or break a the ability high friction hitch anti sway feature to work right on any brand hitch. The TT needs to be at max cold side wall pressure. The truck needs to start at least at door sticker pressure. From there, it is a pressure experiment to go up in pressure until the side walls of the tires are stiff enough to hold the camper stable when towing. Do not exceed max cold side wall pressure of the tire. 6. With your truck that new, I suspect you are not on brand new tires but mentioning this for the future. Some brand new tires can create a friction issue to the road until they get 2 to 3K miles on them and then they settle out. And some brand tires just plain have soft sidewalls regardless of air pressure. Even LT truck tires. Hope this helps. John.
JBarca 05/18/19 09:46pm Towing
RE: Atwood/Dometic Stove regulator 51062

Update: I tried the 3rd new regulator today. Same issue, the stover regulator follows the tank pressure. I did try one of them under demand. One burner on hi, drops the stove pressure 2" WC, 2 stove burners on hi drops to 3" WC or adds 1 " drop. These regulators just do not regulate. These 51062 Dometic regulators have serial numbers on the package and mfg dates. 1. Ser. # 84699676 11/15/18 2. Ser. # 84699712 11/15/18 3. Ser. # 90298483 01/18/19 2 of them are made very close on the same day. The other one 2 months later. This does not seem like a good trend.
JBarca 04/20/19 04:19pm Tech Issues
RE: Atwood/Dometic Stove regulator 51062

BTW, it is RARE got the Range/stove regulator to go bad. Usually they just leak. Doug Thanks and I can agree with that. The last Atwood regulator on my prior camper leaked at the vent. Must of been a pin hole or something in the diaphragm. I finally caught it with leak solution. See here. https://live.staticflickr.com/4712/38792833295_d236ab0448_o.jpg width=640
JBarca 04/20/19 08:22am Tech Issues
RE: Atwood/Dometic Stove regulator 51062

1. I would indeed suspect the Dometic Stove reg's are bad. But, I doubt Dometic will fess up. It took months last year to get Dometic to agree that the Atwood Water heater Control boards on thousands of DSI water heaters were faulty. They then replaced them. Probably the same thing now. Their supplier has built faulty regulators and it will take time for the bad ones to show up in service centers before Dometic realizes the problem. You need to contac Dometic and explain in detail your testing process so they will understand that they are dealing with someone that knows RV LP systems. Hopefully they will want all your regulators back for testing. BTW, it is RARE got the Range/stove regulator to go bad. Usually they just leak. Doug Thanks Doug. These 2 new failed regulators are not doing any regulating. They are passing whatever the tank pressure is straight through. This camper also had a fridge cooling coil failure and with the fridge out, I caped off the fridge gas line. As a troubleshooting effort, I had my Dwyer gas gage on the fridge for tank pressure and the manometer on the stove burner. If it tweaked the tank regulator up or down, 13 to 12 to 11" the stove burner on the manometer would follow it exactly. Theses new Dometic regulators I got just plainly do not work. If I find anything out from Dometic, I will pass it along. Years ago when I called Atwood I got a lot of help. Calling Dometic was not the same experience.
JBarca 04/20/19 08:13am Tech Issues
RE: Atwood/Dometic Stove regulator 51062

Need one of the real techs here, but I did find this review where he says the OEM was too weak to run the oven but the new one does. Perhaps the new spec is 12 since the ones you got are both at that? I don't know if it matters that the OEM was Part 52154 for an R-2136. https://www.amazon.com/Atwood-51062-Pressure-Regulator/product-reviews/B004QN0WNC/ref=cm_cr_dp_d_show_all_btm?ie=UTF8&reviewerType=all_reviews Hi, Thanks From my manual, the RA2133 uses the 51062 (year 2006 range). As does all the stovetops and ranges in the service manual,(2007 vintage manual). Seems they just use a standard step down regulator. It does mention that the 52154 regulator is the same as the 51062. As to the pressure, ranges and stove tops have been at 10" WC a long time. And the one I have, has orifices sized to work on 10" WC. I do not know of a change in the spec. That would be a major departure from prior industry standard 10" WC on a range/stove top. I also looked at the dates in the review you linked. They are all several years old when Atwood was still steering the ship. The person with the flow issue may have had a bad regulator not opening up enough under load.
JBarca 04/20/19 08:02am Tech Issues
RE: Atwood/Dometic Stove regulator 51062

Does the stove work? If you didn't have the measuring device would you suspect anything is wrong with the stove? Yes, the stove worked before as the main tank regulator was creating 10"WC which is what the stove is supposed to be working at. If I did not checked this, I would not have known I had a problem. What I have seen in the past on these cheap regulators is, once they start to deteriorate in performance sooner or later the water heater and the furnace may act up without enough pressure to operate correctly. Or worse, the pressure goes way too high, beyond 14" WC and then you run into risk of overheating. From my background, doing preventive maintenance with checking to correct things before they stop working, keeps you running longer. It is just hard to believe I got 2 brand new Dometic regulators that do not regulate properly right out of the box. I'm hoping some others have run into this before to give me some clues what is going on. Maybe Dometic changed suppliers and they have a quality issue. Don't know, yet anyway.
JBarca 04/19/19 09:56pm Tech Issues
Atwood/Dometic Stove regulator 51062

I have a Atwood range model R-A2133BSE. I am having issues with the stove regulator to sustain 10" WC and I need a sanity check if I am missing something. Background. Earlier this week, I did a LP leak test and pressure test on my camper. I am using my new Dwyer gas gage. I hook up the gage at the burner orifice, read the pressure. I am getting 10" WC with a tap on the gage at the burner orifice downstream of the stove regulator. OK this sounds good. I close the main tank valve. I vent a burner to bleed down to 8" WC at a burner orifice to open the main tank regulator. I let the system sit for a 3 minute leak test, no drop. I let it continue to time for 10 minutes. No pressure drop. Great, I have no leaks. I then take the gas line off "upstream" of the stove regulator to do a system pressure test. Hook up the gage, open the tank and I get 10" WC. OK what's up? I then suspect my gage is not reading right. I go get my old water manometer. Sure enough it is reading right on with the gage. OK the tank regulator is acting up. I adjust the tank regulator up to 11 1/2" WC before the stove regulator. Fire off the furnace and the system drops down to 10" WC. I never had much luck trying to adjust these cheap tank regulators, when they start acting up, they are usually toast. But, I tweaked the regulator up to 13" and with the furnace running it drops to about 11 1/2". Now let me check the stove regulator again as I really do not know if it was working right. I put the incoming line back on the stove regulator, and put the gage on the burner orifice and check the pressure at the stove burner. Yup, it reads 13"WC. Darn, the stove regulator is bad too. I order a 3 new tank regulators and 3 new stove regulators as I have several campers. They are all over 10 years old. And all using Atwood ranges. Today I put the new tank regulator in. That works right now. When the furnace and water heater are on, it only goes from 12" WC to 11" WC. SO I feel good the tank regulator is good now. I put a brand new Dometic 51062 regulator in the stove. Take a reading at the burner. I get 12" WC. This new regulator is not working. I check it again with my manometer, same thing, 12" WC. Ok, so I go get a 2nd new Dometic 51062 and put it in. Same thing. It passes full tank pressure at 12" WC. OK what am I missing here? I have had stove regulators go bad in the past when Atwood was still in operation and the new replacement worked right out of the gate. It was 10" WC right on the money. (now about 8 years ago) Now I have 2 new Dometic ones since the takeover of Atwood and neither one works. I have not yet opened the 3rd spare stove regulator. I even tried putting the regulator face up (diaphragm axis up) verses 90 degrees like the stove was originally. No luck Any suggestions?' This I will say, the older Atwood regulators you could pull the plug out and adjust the pressure. These new Dometics are sealed up with what looks like a pressed in disk over the diaphragm stem, so it is non adjustable. Thanks in advance. John
JBarca 04/19/19 06:20pm Tech Issues
RE: Lubing my Reese Strait_Line hitch w/Dual Cam

I'll add a little to hopefully help the cause. Reese changes their instructions from time to time, and I must admit the instructions of today are a lot better than years ago. See here for the current issue as of this post from the Reese Products site. These are dated 5/31/2017 Rev T. http://www.reeseprod.com/support/installation/N26002.pdf On page 9 of 33 they state: MAINTENANCE: 1. DO NOT – use grease on the cams or cam arms. 2. If noise of the system is offensive, a very light coating of lubricant such as Vaseline may be used on the portion of the cam where the spring bar rides on the cam. Tongue weights in excess of 1,200 lbs. may require the use of such a lubricant to prevent excessive wear. 3. Keep all painted parts painted to prevent rust and maintain a good appearance. (Do Not paint over labels Reading the words as written, if noise is offensive, you can use a light coat of Vaseline to tame down the noise. It really does not state what TW needs the noise reduction. On loaded tongue weights of over 1,200#, Vaseline may be used to reduce excessive wear as now stated. However it does not declare what excessive wear really is. Years ago (pre 2006), 1,200# WD bars were the largest they ever made and using vaseline was OK back then when used on 1,000# TW's. Years ago, they would describe the vaseline as a weak lubricant in their instructions and it was OK to use on the cams as it not considered an actual grease in their mind. I have been using the Reese DC on several different trailers for the last 15 years. On our large camper, I have one pair of DC's that have over 50,000 miles on the original set. While the spring bars changed size from camper to camper, I kept using the same cam arms and cams. I found these things out which are not mentioned in the lastest instructions. When the cams are brand new, you will notice a lot of metal wear, (metal chips dust) on the cams. This is normal. This wear is the WD bar wearing off the contact spots on the cam arms. As mileage increases, the wearing dust slows down as the contact patch of wear on the cam is larger. The WD bars and the latest new DC lobes are not machined. The WD bars are forged and DC is cast steel. The older DC had machined cam lobes but the WD bars have been forged. The lengths of the WD bars are not exact nor the cast steel DC lobes. I have found that you should mark the WD bars left and right once the DC is adjusted spot on perfectly centered in the WD bar V. Then always use that same WD bar on the same side going forward. The WD bar and the cam over time become a worn in matched set. The contact patch on the DC matches the wear pattern on the WD bar. If you do not use the same WD bar on the same side all the time, that contact patch wear will start all over again because you flipped the bars around from side to side. And that flip flopping can create higher wear then leaving them on the same side. My tongue weights on the original cams have varied from 1,000# to 1,600# across a few campers. The current camper we have had since 2007 has 1,700# WD bars on it with a 1,600# loaded TW. I do use the vaseline for wear and it tames the noise. As BarneyS stated, I do not reapply every trip. The Vaseline is good for many trips. When you start seeing new metal wearing (metal chip dust) or hearing the grinding, then it is time to put another light coat on. In time, you will know when to add. I have a smaller camper also with a 800# TW using the new cast steel DC and 800# bars and I do not use the vaseline. It is not really needed on this lighter setup. The vaseline will reduce the friction of the DC. It has to in order to reduce the wear. However, a light film of it "normally" will not affect the anti sway. But, a larger quantity can reduce the sway control a small amount pending other factors in your truck setup. You really do not need much lube to tame down the noise and wear. Hope this helps John
JBarca 03/30/19 10:22pm Towing
RE: Rubber roof edge caulk

Did you consider a strip of Eternabond along the roof edge? Place it on the roof and leave about 1/4 inch on the gutter. That is a great idea! And a good one. Here is a tip to take it one step better, get rid of the vinyl strip covering the gutter rail screws and take the E bond all the way to the bottom of the gutter. That vinyl cover strip over the screws can rot out the screws and then a leak wicks in the rusted screws into the top sill plate and attic area. See here for a few pics The problem, https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4734/24495760747_1fc188c437_o.jpg https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4642/24495760067_08296520bd_o.jpg The fix, https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4687/24495759577_1bf5b4fa7f_o.jpg Looks like this when done https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4729/25490910168_ca8a413923_o.jpg For an upgrade, replace the old steel screws with stainless flat heads and counter sink the head. Just do not Ctr sink too deep. Have the screw about 1/32 to 1/16" not flush. If you do not want to C'sink, get pan head screws and you can go right over the screw heads too if wanted. Both work, the C sink works a little better but more work. https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4633/39330406352_76db9843bd_o.jpg https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4635/39330405922_5bc95deb5f_o.jpg Hope this helps John
JBarca 03/18/19 09:32am Travel Trailers
RE: Rubber roof edge caulk

Maybe I'm right...I went to Dicor's website and couldn't find any caulk. I wanted to provide a link to the correct stuff. I know my local RV repair/dealer has both kinds and they are both made by Dicor. You were right, on vertical surfaces where you do not want the Dicor to run down the wall etc, use the non sag, non leveling. The Dicor self leveling part numbers start with 50YXXX The Dicor non leveling part numbers start with 55YXXX And Dicro's site seems to want to hide things sometimes. Here is the link https://dicorproducts.com/product/epdm-lap-sealants/ On that page, click the "Specs" tab and scroll down for all the Dicor lap sealants colors and Haps free part numbers. Hope this helps John PS. If you want to learn a few tricks on how to tool out the Dicor non leveling and not make a mess, see this post of mine on the Sunline forum with pics. Dicor Questions on Sunline Club
JBarca 03/18/19 09:16am Travel Trailers
RE: Hail Dings on front

Hi, I'll give you some info to think on as you sort through this. I'll echo to be honest in your sale. If someone asks about the dings, explain it to them, straight up. Trying to hide something sets yourself up for what else is he not telling us. That said, if you go down the get it fixed path, this can cost an amount of money. I am somewhat of a retired camper restoration hobbistet/extremist... I am on my 10th camper water damage restoration now and I deal with taking off and putting on aluminum siding without issue. I can even show you have to do it. The siding will come off starting at the bottom. Then you work your way up. The corner molding needs to come off in order to do this. As far as the factory seal, you can restore that even better than factory if wanted. In the end, this will come down to the "labor" cost rate plus the materials along with material mark up. Using your picture, https://scontent-ort2-2.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/53881541_2550029551705830_1820569673939288064_n.jpg?_nc_cat=100&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-2.xx&oh=ed74b141653815556cca9900edbece44&oe=5CDF667D width=640 If the very top panel with the yellow clearance lights is not damaged, this repair will be less. If that panel can stay in place, then they do not have to deal with the roof seam along the front. The comments about having to replace the whole roof due to dealing with that seam are not accurate. You can lift that seam, not damage the roof or restore any small damage if there is any, BUT that roof seam will take time to deal with it. It can be more than taking the entire front siding below it off. I would estimate it could take 2 techs 8 to 12 hours (16 to 24 hours) to take the old siding off, the old corner moldings off, not the top panel, clean up the corners & roof area, staple on the new siding, install new corners with new sealing tape, new Dicor on roof areas and apply new decals. I say 2 techs as most shops do this in 2's. I myself would do it with only me, but I have done it enough to know how. Add another 6 hours if they have to deal with the top panel off and back on. You are now up to 16 to 24 hours + 6 hours or 22 hours to 30 hours of charged labor. At $75/hour (low end) this is $75 x 22 = $1,650 to $75 x 30 = $2,250. At $110/hour (more likely for a good shop) This is $2,420 to $3,300. And neither of them includes the materials, including new decals with material mark up. While that estimate may sound high for the labor, that is reality of what a good shop may charge you. It may even be more if they find water intrusion in a corner which is likely. You having it stored in a barn is a major savings to a camper. But corner water intrusion, especially the front is real. Just because you can't see it, does not mean it is not there. If you do the labor yourself, this is a lot cheaper as long as you want to take on the project. Offering the new buyer $500 off if they ask about it, your ahead of the game. Granted it does not look great, but for a couple starting out with as their first camper, they may get a great deal for the money and they can live with the dings. Hope this helps John
JBarca 03/09/19 06:02pm Travel Trailers
RE: New hitch

I have a 33 1/2' ball to bumper camper. Loaded it weighs in just under 10,000#. I have a 1,600# loaded TW when the bicycles are mounted on the tongue. TW drops to 1,500# TW when the bikes are at home. TW is 15 to 16% pending bikes. A key point to a stable rig is proper TW and a truck that can handle it. I only tow up to 60mph unless passing. That is all I need in speed, the rig can do more. I have a 1 ton SRW V10 gasser, crew cab short bed and have been towing this combo since Sept 2007 with a little over 30,000 miles on it. I am using the Reese Trunnion bar hitch with 1,700# WD bars and the DC. The combination of the truck, camper and the WD hitch work well. I have no effect's of semi's, box truck's passing or high winds that require any steering adjustments. I had a smaller camper, a K2500 Suburban and the Reese trunnion bar hitch with the DC also. That camper had 18% TW. The system was also a good combo for the slightly under 20,000 miles I towed it. However, you are wanting to compare 2 different tools between the DC and the Propride. The sway control of the ProPride is mechanically better then the DC. The principles of operation are very different. You will be giving up a level of sway control in certain conditions going from a Propride to a DC. That said, the Propride is not a perfect setup either, it has it's issues too. Don't get me wrong, the DC is a very good tool as part of a stable towing rig. But, the truck has to do it's part, the camper has to be stable and the WD hitch joins the 2. There is an edge of the DC as far as control and I found it twice on 2 different trucks. Once on my K2500 Suburban when I changed tires. A rock solid rig turned into silly putty under high cross winds with a new tire brand change. I learned and worked through that but I knew that truck combo was 10psi in front tire pressure away from being stable. The front tires on the new first generation of LTX tires (even in LT's) where too soft to hold the truck stable at door sticker pressures (50psi). Air them up to 60psi and the whole thing got better but still not as good as the prior Steel Tex tires. The next time I found the issue with the DC is with the rig I have now. Again tires and this time it is not the Michlean's and it is not tire pressure. I'm on my 3rd set of Continental Conti-Trac TR's. The first 2 sets I had no issues from the word go. The last set I put on in 2017, same brand, same tire the rig was no longer as stable at first. I knew better then change tire types and brand but the new rubber compounds and the way they make tires seems to be hit and miss. And the while the brand does make a difference, I found other guys with other brands of tires with good trucks can have the same issues. Something with the friction is less on brand new tires of certain brands the way they are made now. Put on 3,000 miles on the tires, and the rig comes back stable again. Bottom Line, the truck has to hold the rig stable and the tires on it are a big part of it. The DC has to have a stable truck or it will not perform as well all things considered. In my case, I have too much TW for a ProPride or a Hensley. At the time (2007), Reese was the only one of the high friction hitches that had a 1,700# system. The only other choice at the time was the Pull-Rite 2,000# hitch to handle the weight. I almost went with the Pull Rite if it did not derate the truck so badly in weight carrying mode. I also haul other trailers in non WD mode and that was a show stopper for me. You have to sort out what is the most important to you. There is no "perfect" WD setup as all of them have some level of drawbacks pending your situation. I will add this if you go with the Reese DC, make sure you get it with the trunnion bars, as it is a better setup with more WD adjustments then with the round bars. And learn how to setup the hitch so it will not bind the cam arms in turns. It will work well, but it does take more to set it up correctly. The instructions while they are better than they use to be, they do not cover all the trailer combinations out there. If you need help on the setup, let us know. That can be a post in itself. Hope this helps John
JBarca 03/09/19 05:08pm Towing
RE: Opinions - Morryde x-factor cross brace

For some reason, all the pics are now showing on my older post. See here for more TT Spring Hanger Stiffening (Long, lots of pics)
JBarca 03/06/19 05:26pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Opinions - Morryde x-factor cross brace

I may be a little late to the party, but I'll add my comments. If there is a chance you can post pictures of your front, rear axle and center axle hangers, we can see if you have the "issue". So what is the "issue"? Back in the early year 2,000's, campers started getting more I beam style frames across the industry. As time went on, cracks started forming in the web of the I beam just above the hangers from the hangers flexing in turns. The longer the hangers, the worse this was. The more miles towed, the worse it was. Soon a pattern to the cracks was evident. There was lack of rigid support between lower flange of the I beam and the web. The lower flange would flex and over time crack the web. These I shape manufactured housing beams used for campers have very weak lower flanges. Some RV manufacturers addressed the problem by adding support to the lower flange. This halted the web flexing and then no more cracks. This made it to be a big enough problem that there is even a Lippert how to fix it sheet on the NTHSA website. Yet, we still have campers being built today with the same issue. No lower flange support on long hanger suspension. I learned about this in the later 2,000's and I made my own cross member supports to go between all 3 hanger sets. Guys who go off road, like toy haulers knew of the issue as their off road travel to camp aggravated the problem worse then the asphalt road folks. The toy haulers guys where welding in channel iron stiffeners on brand new campers to ward off the issue. Picking up from the toy hauler group, I reinforced the hanger itself and the frame. My camper, while a travel trailer in place of a 5'er, has the heavier 10" I shape frame with 5" long hangers and loaded weighs just under 10,000# scaled. My issue was hanger bending when turning and staying bent. I never cracked the frame as the reinforcing tubes and the added flange support stopped it. I even have a picture filled post here on RV.net on this, but for some reason all the pictures are not viewing on that older thread. Bottom line: If you plan to keep your camper a good while, adding hanger reinforcement at all 3 locations is a worthwhile upgrade. Since I cannot see yours, I do not know what you have. Hope this helps John PS. Here a couple of the pics linked in. If you are interested in more, let me know https://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b378/JBarca/T310SR%20Camper%20Upgrades/Axle%20Rebuild/Hangersupport.jpg width=640 https://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b378/JBarca/T310SR%20Camper%20Upgrades/Axle%20Rebuild/Endviewassy.jpg width=640 https://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b378/JBarca/T310SR%20Camper%20Upgrades/Axle%20Rebuild/bottomviewassy.jpg width=640 https://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b378/JBarca/T310SR%20Camper%20Upgrades/Axle%20Rebuild/frontaxle.jpg width=640 https://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b378/JBarca/T310SR%20Camper%20Upgrades/Axle%20Rebuild/rearaxle.jpg width=640
JBarca 03/06/19 05:18pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Soft Caulk under Eternabond tape

It sounds like you have a plan, I will add this for future folks help. I have done a fair amount of Eternabond work and in doing this, I was talking with Eternabond about going over Dicor. From an Eternabond perspective, the dicor gases off while it cures. All that gassing off needs to happen before applying the Eternabond as in some cases, the gas off process will bubble the Eternabond trying to escape. I have had a friend not realize this in the summertime and his E bond did bubble badly. Temperature affects the curing rates of Dicor. The colder it is out, low temps, the longer this gas off phase takes. Ideally, a year wait is a non issue for Eternabonding a complete trailer and I have done several campers waiting this amount of time with no issues. New Dicro can last a year no problem. However waiting a year is not always an option. I have 2 campers now I am doing roof jobs on and I am waiting a 1 month period with the camper at or above 50F 24/7 before applying the E bond over a totally fresh Dicor'ed camper. This aligns with what Eternabond told me. They said wait 3 to 4 weeks, I picked 4 for the gas off. It seems Dicor told you 2 weeks. Good, that means I should not have any issues. Wish they would of said at what temp. Curious if gas off phase and total cure mean the same thing. See this spec's page from the Dicor site. It states 100% cure at 30 day with temps 50 to 70F. Click the "Installation" tab to see the cure rates https://dicorproducts.com/product/epdm-lap-sealants/ Hope this helps John
JBarca 03/06/19 03:51pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
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