RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Search

RV Blog

  |  

RV Sales

  |  

Campgrounds

  |  

RV Parks

  |  

RV Club

  |  

RV Buyers Guide

  |  

Roadside Assistance

  |  

Extended Service Plan

  |  

RV Travel Assistance

  |  

RV Credit Card

  |  

RV Loans

Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Posting Help and Support  |  Contact  



Open Roads Forum  >  Search the Forums

 > Your search for posts made by 'JBarca' found 66 matches.

Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 4  
Next
  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Bent WD snap up bracket on dual cam setup.

As a side note… I posted about a month ago about the drivers side seeming to have more tension that the passenger side. Not sure if those event and that are related… but makes me wonder. Hi, You already have the answers to the bent snap up, I'm commenting on the one bar seeming to have more tension. What size WD bars are you running and are they the trunnion style? While both the round bar and the trunnion bar hitches can have this effect, the trunnion bar style may have more of it. For the trunnion bar hitch head, the head trunnion lug sockets are forged into the head. The trunnion head on the WD bar is cast steel and may be forged as well. And then there is the WD bar itself that is forged. And not to forget, differences in the snap up chain lengths, and the snap up bracket. All those mating parts are not machined where they fit together. As such, the WD bar locks up under load in the hitch head when the WD chains become tight and under load. Those unmachined parts are not exact. The lock up point on the left WD bar and the right WD bar in the hitch head can be/most likely will be, at a different spring load on the WD bar due to those small differences of unmachined parts. This creates a level of more tension on the one side. I notice this issue most with my 1,700# WD bars then the 1,200# bars or even less on the 800# WD bars. I have several hitch setups on campers/trailers all using the DC. The heavier rating of the WD bar, the stiffer it is, so a slight difference in lock up angle in the hitch head allows you to "feel" this difference easier when hitching up. When using the pipe on the snap up bracket and applying a small amount of snapping up tension to the WD chains, you will show/produce the feel of this. What little tension you can create with that pipe against a 1,700# WD bar is not much. You have to jack the camper and truck way up to get the WD bars on to relive some of the high spring load. Same goes for the 1,200# WD bars, even the 800# bars in many cases. That small, but yet, felt difference in WD snapup should not really affect the operation of the hitch. I have my camper on level concrete and the truck too and can feel this difference. If the trailer axles and the truck axles are on uneven ground creating a slight axle angle against truck and camper, then the snapping up feel can also be found. This is more from one WD bar being down hill or uphill in relation to the other due to the axles not all being on parallel ground as the A Frame is not parallel the the hitch head in its normal setting. Reading that, does this now explain how you "feel" one WD bar harder to snap up then the other? I mark all my DC WD bars left and right so the cams and WD bars wear as a set and always put them on the same side. The same WD bar is always harder on the drivers side on my truck with the camper in my sig. The smaller campers and the flat bed trailer are different which side is a stronger feel. They all have different hitch heads, WD bars and snap up chain sets. Hope this helps John
JBarca 07/25/21 09:42pm Towing
RE: Reese Straight Line Weight Distribution Hitch Question

I have a Reese Straight Line Weight Distribution Hitch product number 66072 rated for #600. My new trailer requires #900 tongue weight. Can I Just buy the Trunnion Spring bar rated for #1200 and replace the #600 ones? Thanks , Harold I see your past this now and have the 1,200# WD bars. The Reese HP trunnion bar hitch head, pn 58167, has been revised several times over the years. Reese use to top out at 1,200# in WD mode back in the early 2,000 time frame. Then came heavier trailers and they offered the 1,700# WD bars, then the 1,500# WD bars and they still fit the same 58167 hitch head. They also started adding rating stickers on the side of the head. Like this https://live.staticflickr.com/4602/25816263318_3933784cca_o.jpg Here is the latest all cast steel HD trunnion bar head, 58167 at Etrailer as a stand alone part. Etrailer Reese 58167 The next issue was the hitch shank. The ratings on them changed and the 2" square shank topped out at 1,500#, if you wanted to use the 1,700# bars you have to upgrade to a 2 1/2" shank/receiver. On the 2 1/2" shank, the shank tapers down at the hitch head to fit into the 2" hitch head. As to the WD bar sizes, the 600# and 800# WD bar look the same as the bar outer size and the trunnion lug head is the same, but the steel temper is different. The 1,200, 1,500 and the 1,700 WD bar have the same trunnion head, bar size, but the temper of the steel is different. That 58167 head fits all the newer 600 to 1,700# WD bars. Just heads up incase you get an old Reese WD bar, they use to years back, pre year 2,000 at least have smaller OD lugs on the trunnion bars. While they will fit the new 58167, do not mix a new larger trunnion lug WD bar with an older smaller trunnion lug WD bar. They do not lock up un the hitch head the same. See here, the 800# bar next to a 1,200# wd bar. The 800# bar on the bottom https://live.staticflickr.com/4698/38790796815_d1be46d8d4_o.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/4698/25816257438_a45c7b0171_o.jpg As ktmrfs stated, when you go to the 1,200# and up WD bar, the snap up brackets have had issues of bending open in turns in some cases. The issue also has occurred in less frequency on some of the older 1,000# WD bars when they use to offer that size WD bar. You have a few options in this case, if you are on the old style snap up's, bolt them to the frame. Use grade 5 or higher hardware. You can buy the newer reinforced snap up that have welded on gussets on the sides. Like this one, for $72 each. Reese snap up brackets at E trailer These Reese Trunnion bar head instructions talks about the bolting on the older style WD brackets, page 5 Reese Trunnion bar hitch instructions As FYI, before those new heavy duty snap up brackets came out, I was already converted to the 1,700# WD hitch system back in 2007 due the 1,600# loaded tongue weight of our current camper in my sig. Back then, the only option we had was bolting on the snap up. I bolted them on and I am still using them after putting on over 35K miles on the trailer later. In my case, I have a channel iron frame and I can use nuts and bolts and not self taping screws. You can see the round heads of the carriage bolts I used in the lower part of the snap up. https://live.staticflickr.com/4624/25816290058_147a11ab60_o.jpg If you are running 1,200# and up WD bars, you really want to deal with the snap ups, bolt them on or get the new HD snap ups. Hope this helps John
JBarca 07/10/21 08:34am Towing
RE: You never know when it might happen

Good pics! Yes, your right, yearly close inspection of all hitch equipment is a need. And as QCman stated, the crack in the dark area started a long time ago and it looks like it may have progressed in stages. I found cracks in the welds of one of my WD hitch heads. It was about 10 years old at the time. Fine hair line cracks down the center of the welds. Several of them. That is the time to find these cracks, they are tiny and in the early stages of failing. You really have to clean the parts and use good lighting, but you can see some of these issues before they create big problems. The key is, you have to at least look.
JBarca 07/10/21 07:40am Towing
RE: Dehumidifier?

Hello guys, Snip.. We’re pretty big family, every morning all windows covered with moisture. This specific model probably not big enough for 28 ft trailer… I agree with the others, that small dehumidifier will not stop the issue, it is way too small. The larger compressors dehumidifier will help, there are few things I may be able to add that can help not yet mentioned. But need a little more info to make sure we all understand the problem right. And for the campers sake, you need to get the excess humidity issue under control if you plan to keep that camper a long time. I have seen first hand doing roof replacements what lack of moisture control can do inside a typical RV attic. You are posting this question in June and not winter time, what are the outside temperatures at night when you have this problem? How big is the family? (how many) Where are you located that this occurs in June? or what months does it occur? Do you have access or can you get a Hygrometer? (humidity gauge) One like this or similar that has the last 24 hours hi and low saved on it for both RH (relative humidity)and temp. https://www.amazon.com/AcuRite-Humidity-Thermometer-Hygrometer-Indicator/dp/B0013BKDO8/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=AcuRite+00613&qid=1625284354&s=home-garden&sr=1-1 These kinds of issues are normally reported in the winter months when the heat is running inside the camper and it is cold outside. If we know some more about the above questions, we may be able to help better and all learn something here with this issue in June. If in fact it is happening in June. Thanks John
JBarca 07/02/21 10:00pm Travel Trailers
RE: Balance Question

Lynnmor, Getting back to you. Thanks for explaining your static balance setup. I have had to do a similar method at work, just on a 10,000# rotary drum. We leveled steel plates on the floor, then rolled by hand the large drum with machined race rings that were friction drive wheels. The drum is 6ft dia x 25 ft long, and as we rotated it, we stopped every few degrees. We added weight to the correct location to balance out the system so no matter where it stopped, the weight would not start the drum from moving. When all 360 degrees worked, then we declared it was statically balanced good enough, It only rotated 30 rpm. But that big, 30 rpm gets your attention. As I was reading through your write up, I thought, the grease is going to add friction, you took care of that and the grease seal and bearing preload if any and you took care of that too. Then it came to be, that you balanced a wheel and brake drum to a specific axle location and lug pattern. And yup, you took that into account too. Yes, I see what you are doing and it is a sound mechanical basic process that should yield good results. I have the ability to reproduce what you did, never thought of doing it, even through I know the method. I do not trust the tire shops setup and then with the poor machining of the brake drums, even if tire shop balanced the wheel right, it, still won't work. I use Dyanbeads in the my trailer tires to overcome the problem. http://www.innovativebalancing.com/ I have my own tire machine (think, 1970 vintage) but it still works well on trailer wheels or other zero offset wheels. As such, I use the larger truck beads and put them in the tire as I am mounting it. I see Robertsunrus is using centramatics on the camper, https://www.centramatic.com/balancers.rhtml That is the more Cadillac approach. I bumped into them before and was planning on using them on the F350. Not a cheap way to go, but from everyone who has used them all they say is, smooth riding. I will see how they work out on the truck first, then figure out if they will gain me more then the dynabeads on the camper to help justify the added cost. I will say this, anyone who plans on keeping a camper a good long time and tows long distances, trailer suspension and tire balance go a long way in keeping the trailer frame and entire camper from fatiguing. Shocks and a rubber equalizer if you are on double eye leaf springs along with a more true working tire balance helps the whole camper live longer. The double slipper spring setup with shocks also helps or rubber ride (torsion spring) axles if you have them in your size camper. John
JBarca 05/04/21 12:34pm Travel Trailers
RE: Balance Question

Here is a perfectly balanced tire/wheel that I had to add two ounces of weight to bring it into balance when mounted. https://i.imgur.com/68igcojl.jpg Here is the video before adding weights: Video Any guesses to the cause? A question, when you say the tire and wheel was perfectly balanced, can you describe: 1. The tire and wheel assembly balancing process? 2. What part of the wheel was used to hold the assembly? 3. What was used declare the center of rotation of the wheel? I have found several out of balance conditions that can exist on the standard trailer setup, maybe you found a new one. I have found on brake drums, the brake shoe surface diameter and grease seal diameter show they run true to each other as turned in the same setup. And on the same drum, the inner and outer bearing bores are machined true to each other as they where bored in the same setup, but the brake shoe and seal diameter are on different centerlines the the bearing bores. Some are off center greater then 0.015" TIR and some over 0.020" TIR. I have not yet measured the lug stud centerline to sort out what centerline that spin true to, but would really surprise me if it ran true with the bearings. The drum wheel face can be out of square with the bearings bores also creating wheel wobble. Trailer wheels many times have stamped center bores that are not very accurate to the center of the wheel rotation, as the center bore is not machined in relation to the tire bead area. "Standard" trailer wheels are called "lug centric" on most travel trailers/fifth wheels and small utility trailer as they spin by the lugs studs/lug nuts. There is no machined brake drum center pilot to mate with the wheel center bore. If a wheel balancer used the center bore to balance a tire to, that could affect wheel balance as the wheel assembly could not run true with the lug nut holes that mount on the brake drum. Sadly, all that above could be made very accurately like the auto industry has done for years, but yet, standard trailers fall into cheaper made versions. If you happen to look close at what U Haul uses on their rental cargo trailers, they spent the extra money to have piloted wheels on brake drums (hub centric), and they do not use cheap nylon spring pin or shackle plates in the suspension. U haul does not want to have to deal with the suspension failures while the miles add up. John
JBarca 04/25/21 10:19pm Travel Trailers
RE: Water Damage - Is it worth restoring?

Hi There, Trailer has been in continuous outdoor storage 250 miles away for 6 years. I drove up yesterday to do some repairs prior to transporting to my current location. I found that there is water damage - the roof seal has opened up pretty badly in the rear corner, and to a lesser extent across the back. There is visible bulging in the roof in those sections. Down the side (outside) there is a dry lichen-like growth - looks like where the water flowed down the inside. The fiberglass is also bulging slightly away from the frame there. Inside there is visible damage directly underneath the location of the broken roof seal that extends across to the center line. Quite likely there is mold in there. This is an 18 y/o trailer that I paid $15K for back then. Other than this, everything seems to be in good shape. But I think this is going to be a very costly repair job, and I can't be sure there aren't other areas of damage as well. Just looking for opinions - is it time for a new trailer? Is this worth spending more money on? Its not something I can do myself. Link to photos: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/qgdukjismwpem9m/AADTygxczmnDN4635Tqbfy6sa?dl=0 Hi Daniel, I have acquired a somewhat extreme retirement hobby, I restore old wet campers. Get them cheap, and make a project out of it. I'm very selective about they ones I want to do, as I'm not wanting to get into 100% restoring. I can build one from the ground up easier when they are totally gone. A camper that old, been outside untouched for the last 6 years, there are leaks in places you cannot see yet, beyond the rear wall issue. There are ways and tools to inspect the camper more to find them, but in your case, you may not want to even go there. Everything in that vintage camper is rebuildable, cost and time aside. Your first issue, you do not have the ability to do the work yourself. To hire this work out it not cost practical. You will easily overrun the $15K you paid for it 18 years ago and that is without the parts. I found this link at the Jayco site, is this your 22U, a 2003? https://www.jayco.com/tools/archive/2003-kiwi-too-htt/ I am currently restoring a 21 footer, aluminum sided, different floor plan, but it had been leaking in the back corner for several years before I acquired it cheap. The water goes down inside the walls, stops at the waterproof membrane on the bottom and starts taking out the floor. And that was only the back wall leaks. As of today, I have 658 work hours into it and I will be a little over $5,500 in parts by the time I am done. I am about 90% done now. The only way this can may any kind of practical sense to do is, you do the work yourself and you enjoy doing it. Hope this helps John
JBarca 04/05/21 11:56am Travel Trailers
RE: Pretty Sure Dual Cam Shouldn't Look Like This!

Hi, I may be able to help as I have seen this before. Got home today & this is what happened to my Reese Dual Cam. Both pieces are supposed to be straight. Ouch. https://i.imgur.com/88IKscHl.jpg "border=0" https://i.imgur.com/m3zZPvb.pngClick For Full-Size Image. If you could post a closer picture of the hitch setup on the current truck with the camper, we can see more. Need rear bumper of truck to front wall of camper and everything in-between. The problem you are describing has happened before. So far, all have been traced to a setup problem. Compound angle turns can create a binding problem with the WD bar and the cam arm. Reese has redesigned the HP DC at least 3 times since the first HP DC, trying to make the DC fit more combinations easier. Your arms and the frame brackets look like the type from the early 2,000's. What year did you acquire the WD hitch and cams? The WD head and the tow ball shank can also have an interference pending the hitch head vintage and the type of hitch head. Different TT's A frames, the hitch head, the hitch shank length, and truck setups have different needs. The one size fits all does not always apply. The first pics shows a tell tail sign of the WD bar being bound up on the cast bump of the cam arm in a turn. Give us a few pics of the complete setup, words get confused too much in these cases. Hope this helps. John PS, I found this post from your other post wanting to change to the Equalizer hitch. We may be able to help you sort out what happened to the Reese. PS 2, post a pic of the old bars too. The bars have changed over the years too. Dig through your old pics and see if you can find one.
JBarca 04/05/21 11:16am Travel Trailers
RE: TT Brake Service

GD's findings on trailer anti-sway control and other systems has some merit to it. And makes one stop and think about it. The truck is so integrated now with all these subsystems, it may not expect the driver to press the manual control button on the brake controller. And if the driver did do that, the manual action will change the yaw reactions of the system which it will do. But the input sensors to all the subsystems will also react and they try to reduce or induce something. Technically, they should have some kind of software to sense manual button being depressed and what to do with that. This may be like the change from older non anti lock brakes to antilock brakes. Years ago, you were taught when driving in snow/slippery conditions to pump the brakes to not skid and lock them up. But when anti lock brakes came out, that is not what you do, you hold for foot steady and let the anti lock feature do its thing. And the first time you drive one, that ratcheting feeling in the front end is all "new" and foreign to you. No one really tells you all this when you buy a new car on the dawn of a technology change. Thinking through all this, one needs to understand what is in a new truck with all these subsystems. They also need to use better language in the owners manual when the proven older ways that even Ford preached, have changed on the use of the manual brake button. A statement saying to the effect, the auto features of the new intergraded systems can be interfered with if the the manual brake control button is applied while under way. See pages XYZ on trailer sway control etc. Or something to that effect.
JBarca 04/03/21 01:11pm Travel Trailers
RE: TT Brake Service

OK, I know the self adjusting trailer brakes. 1. Do you "only" feel the "jerking", whenever it happens, occur when you are applying the brakes and then "stops jerking" when you stop applying the brakes? 2. OR, does the jerking start when you have applied the brakes, and may continue for a short while even after you stop applying the brakes? 3. The key point it, the issue "starts" with a braking action, yes or no? Please answer all 3. John John, We bought this trailer about a year ago, and during the summer I've experienced it probably 5-6 times. 1. It happened when I have applied the brakes during the slow down, like before the traffic light. When the speed was around 10 mph I've felt the jerking for a second, just before it came to full stop. 2. No, it didn't happen when I applied the brakes. And it didn't continue when I stopped applying the brakes. 3. No, it doesn't start with the braking action. I've mentioned before, I've read in truck's manual that the truck stop applying the TT brakes when the speed below 12 mph (or something like that). Any chance it's related to truck and not trailer? What year, make and model truck do you have? I looked and cannot find it in the thread or your profile. Does the truck have an integrated brake controller or an aftermarket one? If aftermarket what make and model. Not sure I ever heard of a brake controller that stops working on the way down in speed. But it maybe, not sure why though. And yes, some integrated brake controllers do drop off current while the truck is standing still and you have your foot on the brake, but by then you are stopped and not moving. Thanks John PS, this one is a bit of a mystery as it seems to point to only low speed, please confirm, it is only low speed coming to a stop. I'll hold off on speculation until we know more about the truck and brake controller. I have had trailer brakes do strange things that sort of lock up creating some of what you are describing , but not with this only low speed issue. It is 2018 f150 with integrated brake controller. Found it :) The trailer brake controller is equipped with a feature that reduces output at vehicle speeds below 11.2 mph (18 km/h) so trailer and vehicle braking is not jerky or harsh. This feature is only available when applying the brakes using your vehicle's brake pedal, not the controller https://cdn.dealereprocess.org/cdn/servicemanuals/ford/2018-f150.pdf Page 308 OK, there is a difference between "stops applying" below a certain speed and "reduced output" below a certain speed. I have the first generation 2005 Ford intergraded brake controller, the one that will not allow the manual lever to work until the truck has gone over I "think" like 15 mph. It will let me manually brake to zero speed, just not on the way up. There was so many complaints on this that after Feb 2005 builds dates, they will apply brakes manually at zero speed. And mine does reduce output once I am stopped. Your 2018 has more setting then my vintage and it may be part of the issue you are having if it doing it's thing below 11.2 mph. Search around and see if other Ford 2018 or newer has this issues. There may even be a TBS about it. Curious how this comes out. John PS. Reading page 308, 2 bullets up from the reduced output state, See here: https://cdn.dealereprocess.org/cdn/servicemanuals/ford/2018-f150.pdf Ford is now saying you are not supposed to press the manual brake controller button if the trailer starts to sway. They are stating that is "misuse". Ford now states to only use the manual button for setting the gain. I'm not sure I agree with that. Pressing the manual button while driving straight ahead, and on purpose not using the truck brakes, used to be the first instinct go to action to help tame out a swaying trailer. I have not heard until I saw that tonight. WOW..!!! Do other brands of integrated controller now say this?
JBarca 04/02/21 10:02pm Travel Trailers
RE: TT Brake Service

OK, I know the self adjusting trailer brakes. 1. Do you "only" feel the "jerking", whenever it happens, occur when you are applying the brakes and then "stops jerking" when you stop applying the brakes? 2. OR, does the jerking start when you have applied the brakes, and may continue for a short while even after you stop applying the brakes? 3. The key point it, the issue "starts" with a braking action, yes or no? Please answer all 3. John John, We bought this trailer about a year ago, and during the summer I've experienced it probably 5-6 times. 1. It happened when I have applied the brakes during the slow down, like before the traffic light. When the speed was around 10 mph I've felt the jerking for a second, just before it came to full stop. 2. No, it didn't happen when I applied the brakes. And it didn't continue when I stopped applying the brakes. 3. No, it doesn't start with the braking action. I've mentioned before, I've read in truck's manual that the truck stop applying the TT brakes when the speed below 12 mph (or something like that). Any chance it's related to truck and not trailer? What year, make and model truck do you have? I looked and cannot find it in the thread or your profile. Does the truck have an integrated brake controller or an aftermarket one? If aftermarket what make and model. Not sure I ever heard of a brake controller that stops working on the way down in speed. But it maybe, not sure why though. And yes, some integrated brake controllers do drop off current while the truck is standing still and you have your foot on the brake, but by then you are stopped and not moving. Thanks John PS, this one is a bit of a mystery as it seems to point to only low speed, please confirm, it is only low speed coming to a stop. I'll hold off on speculation until we know more about the truck and brake controller. I have had trailer brakes do strange things that sort of lock up creating some of what you are describing , but not with this only low speed issue.
JBarca 04/01/21 06:43pm Travel Trailers
RE: CAT Scale Weights

The OP did say in travel trim...which is the correct way to conduct this test. A family of 4 can easily push 600lb. 300lb firewood. 120lb generator. 150lb bikes. 100lb running boards, 200lb fiberglass cap....that's pretty close to 1500lb in the truck before hitching up (the exact makeup might vary but not unheard of numbers). The only questionable part is going from #1 to #2, the truck axles go from 7500 to 7920 which implies a 420lb hitch weight on a total trailer weight of 5040lb or about 8% hitch weight. Not unbelievable but marginal for good towing. I would look at shifting more weight to the front in the trailer to get that percentage up. I agree, their is an error in the truck alone numbers. Assuming the axle weights are correct, the truck is 7,500# If there is no typos on the 2nd and 3rd set of numbers, then the TT tongue weight is too light at 420#. The water weight in the fresh tank, if is a true 2/3rds full is 33 gal, or 268# of weight behind the axles. That water weight will reduce the loaded TW. If we had some distances, ball to center of rear axle, center of rear axle to center of the tank, I can tell how much TW reduction the 268# is. Bottom line: Your loaded tongue weight is too light. Ideally you get up into the 12 to 13% TW / loaded GVW of TT range to give you some freedom to move a few things occasionally or an LP tank go empty. The truck loading is not far out, the TT TW should be adjusted, and that will affect the truck loading to go over again. Good for you taking the rig to the scales and providing all the ratings to help us look at what you came up with. Hope this helps John
JBarca 03/29/21 12:10pm Towing
RE: TT Brake Service

Hi John, yes swinging ahead (forward/backward). No, all tanks were empty. Correct, using the weight distribution hitch No, no lose play. I'm pretty sure it was light stop in most cases. The issue that it happened just a number of times... I will do the wheel/bearing service in next few weeks, maybe I will find an answer for that. Thanks for the EZ lube advice, looks like the old method is way to go. OK, it is not water slosh then. Do you have self adjusting brakes or manual adjust? Is it a pulsating type feeling? Meaning this give and take back and forth feeling happens when you put your foot on the brakes, but stops once you release the brake pedal? Let me know. I have seen a brake issue create that pulsating feeling, but need the above info before I go down the road trying to explain what I found causing it. John It's self adjusting brakes. No, it's not pulsating, not sure how to explain, more like jerking... OK, I know the self adjusting trailer brakes. 1. Do you "only" feel the "jerking", whenever it happens, occur when you are applying the brakes and then "stops jerking" when you stop applying the brakes? 2. OR, does the jerking start when you have applied the brakes, and may continue for a short while even after you stop applying the brakes? 3. The key point it, the issue "starts" with a braking action, yes or no? Please answer all 3. John
JBarca 03/27/21 03:54pm Travel Trailers
RE: TT Brake Service

Hi John, yes swinging ahead (forward/backward). No, all tanks were empty. Correct, using the weight distribution hitch No, no lose play. I'm pretty sure it was light stop in most cases. The issue that it happened just a number of times... I will do the wheel/bearing service in next few weeks, maybe I will find an answer for that. Thanks for the EZ lube advice, looks like the old method is way to go. OK, it is not water slosh then. Do you have self adjusting brakes or manual adjust? Is it a pulsating type feeling? Meaning this give and take back and forth feeling happens when you put your foot on the brakes, but stops once you release the brake pedal? Let me know. I have seen a brake issue create that pulsating feeling, but need the above info before I go down the road trying to explain what I found causing it. John
JBarca 03/24/21 01:30pm Travel Trailers
RE: Best Roof Coating

Great write up John. Truly appreciated. I am wanting to use the Eternabond on the edges and other areas as you show in the picture. On the roof accessories, is it necessary to use Dicor first and then later follow up with Eternabond or can I just put the Eternabond over the cleaned area? Thanks again. Your welcome and glad it helped. A heads up on using Eternabond and Dicor under the eternabond (Ebond). Dicor gases off as it cures, and that gassing off period can be 2 to 3 weeks pending drying conditions. If you apply Ebond over uncured Dicor, the gassing off will create bubbles in the Ebond. I wait 3 to 4 weeks for the gassing off and then Ebond. Longer is OK, just not shorter. I'm note sure what context you are asking about On the roof accessories, is it necessary to use Dicor first and then later follow up with Eternabond I do not know the condition of your existing Dicor, or how old it has been on. Pictures really help in these cases. If Dicor is heavily cracked and crumbled, in my mind it shot. In that case, I would use a heat gun and all edges dulled putty knife and clean off the bad Dicor down to clean Dicor or none left, put new Dicor on, let it gas off, then Ebond. This gives you double sealing. Also about cleaning, Ebond or even more Dicor, will not properly adhere to dirt filled old Dicor or roofing. If you have sound, old and dirt imbedded caulk, or the roof, it has to be totally cleaned before applying new Dicor or Ebond. Most times, soap and water will not clean heavy dirted up Dicor. For EPDM roofing, you need to use mineral spirts on a rag, clean with it, wipe it off as soon as it is clean, then follow with a high evaporating off cleaner wiped on a rag to take the oily reside left over by the mineral spirits. Do not let the mineral sprits soak on the caulk on rubber. I use Naphtha as my high evaporating off cleaner. Etneraclean works and some use denatured alcohol as the high evaporative cleaner. Technically denatured alcohol is not rated as a cleaner, it is stove fuel, but they still use it. If that does not answer your question, explain more what your mean. Hope this helps. John
JBarca 03/24/21 01:20pm Travel Trailers
RE: Best Roof Coating

And I also should have used 303 Protectant on mine through the years. Your roof is a testimony to that product. I never knew how much the 303 really does for the good of the caulk and the rubber, by cleaning the roof correctly and using the 303, until I saw it with my own eyes, on the same age roofing system, that is not washed, and not cared for on the caulk. John John, Could you share your process for cleaning the roof correctly? Thanks Hi, Here is the process I use on Dicor EPDM Brite Ply roofing. In my case I do not have a walk on roof so I do this from the side of the camper. I would do it from the side even if I had a walk on roof. The roof is too slippery when wet. The key for cleaning is, you want to remove the dirt but not over scrub to take off the white shed layer. Mold is cleaned differently and is not dirt, one needs to learn what is mold and what is dirt. If the detergent did not touch it, odds are high, it's mold. 1. Rinse roof with hose sprayer to rinse off loose dirt and fully wet the work area. 2. Using laundry detergent (I use Tide) water mixture and a "soft" car wash brush on a pole, wash the roof like you do your high end sports car. All this is trying to do it get the dirt as that is all the detergent will take off. 3. I clean the inside of the gutter rail with a tooth brush. The dirt/dust buildup can be bad in there and the dirt slows down water draining from the gutter. 4. Rinse the work area well. Move ladder down to the next work area and repeat. Rinse side of camper as you move from the stuff that flows off as you go. Do not let it dry on. 5. I can only reach a little past half way across the camper, so I need to go down both sides to do the total roof. The work area is about 4 1/2 ft across the 8 ft wide roof, and about 6 feet down the length of the camper for each ladder setting. If you live in an area, the midwest or northeast, where mold grows, (in Ohio it grows fast) I do a mold clean on the roof every so often. This removes the black specs that can look like dirt. This is separate from the detergent washing. Mold kill process. This is not done after every wash, only when needed. For Ohio and camper living outside, this may be once a year, maybe twice for heavy mold growing times. 6. After the detergent cleaning is over, and the conditions of day are right, I start the mold kill process. You want to avoid the high sun, high temperature and a high wind part of the day. Everything evaporates too fast in those conditions. The ideal condition is a cloudy day with low, to no wind, temps below 78 F ish. Early morning or later after dinner in the summer can work. 7. Hose wet the work area you are working on. 8. Using a non scented standard bleach and water solution in a 5 gallon bucket. (I use 2 gal water to 1/2 to 3/4 cup of fresh bleach to do a 32 ft camper) Spread the mixture on the roof with the car wash brush and you want it on wet. Do "not" scrub, scrubbing will not help, just brush it on, good and wet. And let it sit and soak for 10 to, most times no more then 15 minutes. Rewet it with solution if it starts drying during this time. You do not want it to dry onto the roof intentionally. The bleach needs time to work. 9. Before leaving that work area to go to the next, rinse the sides of the camper well for any bleach solution that runs down the side of the camper. 10. Move to the next work area and repeat the above. Ideally you can get the whole camper at once before it starts drying. But if you can't, then just do the left and right side and half the camper at once or what ever length you can do. You just do not want to rinse off the treated area until it has had time to do the mold kill work. 11. After the mold kill time is up, rinse the area well and the sides of the camper again. If there are some areas still not killed, repeat those areas. The roof will come back white. 12. Treat roof with 303 after it has dried after every cleaning/mold kill. Notes: Do not over scrub, that is what can take off excess white shed layer on the EPDM. If the camper lives outside, 3 to 4 cleanings a year helps keep the dirt in check and build up bonded to the roof. The dirt comes off a lot easier, especially with the 303 on the roof. If the camper is stored inside, then about 2 cleanings per year. If you have not done a cleaning in a few years, you most likely need to do 2 detergent washes, sometimes 3. You may even need to use a different cleaner if 2 washes with Tide do not remove the bonded on dirt buildup. On my project camper that have not been cleaned in many years, (some 10 years), 2 to 3 detergent washes plus a different detergent is really needed before the mold kill is common to bring the roof back to life. I have pics of that if wanted. I really did not invent this process, maybe embellished it. Below is what came in my owners manual from Dicor in 2003. They state full strength bleach is OK, but I would never do that due to the decals on the camper. A few pics from the process. https://live.staticflickr.com/4642/24497127267_62405813bc_o.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/4739/25492326238_17033a26c1_o.jpg Directions that came in my manual. https://live.staticflickr.com/4590/25492326758_8005a20281_b.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/4644/24497128797_72e0817840_o.jpg This does take time. The bigger the camper, the longer the time. Hope this helps John
JBarca 03/24/21 09:07am Travel Trailers
RE: TT Brake Service

Any chance someone experienced the the same behavior? During the last summer, when I was coming to full stop (probably around 10-15 mph) the truck and the trailer were swinging (going back and forth for a few seconds). It happened probably 5-6 times during the whole season. I though the brake controller output was too high, tried to lower it, but it didn't help. Any idea what can cause it? When you say, truck and trailer swinging back and forth, I'm assuming you mean in a TV and TT straight in line swinging ahead in the truck, correct? Did you have a half or 3/4 tank of water in any of the tanks? Fresh, grey or black? Of some in all 3? I'm assuming you are using a weight distribution hitch? Do you feel any lose play in the tow ball or truck receiver connection? About how fast was the deceleration? A hard stop, a medium stop or a long light stop? I know this is subjective, but trying to get more info on your setup to know what may have created that reaction. If I understood the way the truck was wiggling back and forth, I know the feeling, on a tractor and implement filled with water. The water does not stop solid, it sloshes back and forth in line with the tractor and implement. The faster/harder the stop, the worse it was. I have not had this happen on the camper, but large water tanks on a camper filled with water, could do this. As to the EZ lube setup, I am not a fan of them on a brake axle setup. They have their place on a boat trailer. On a TT setup, sooner or later, the grease can/will blow by the seal into the brakes. The hotter the summer day, on a long tow, the worse it can be. They do make oil or grease seals to hold thousands of pounds of pressure, but they are not what is in a conventional trailer axle. Hope this helps John
JBarca 03/23/21 10:05pm Travel Trailers
RE: Best Roof Coating

And I also should have used 303 Protectant on mine through the years. Your roof is a testimony to that product. Thanks Mike, Yes, the 303 makes a big, big difference on the EPDM roof and caulk. Since I retired 5 years ago, I acquired a somewhat, extreme hobby. I restore water logged campers... Some guys do boats, cars, trucks, motorcycles, houses, well I do campers. :) I am on my 13th camper rot repair. Some for friends, and some I own. I have 5 campers now in my barn, our big one we camp in all the time in my sig, then 4 other that are projects campers in stages of drying out and restoration. These campers are the same brand, Sunline, that I have in my sig. Three of them are 2004 campers and one a 2007. These have the classic, the owner never took care of the roof, or the siding seals. They never knew they had to. As such, they all had seeper type drip leaks in them, leaking for years. The key point of this, they never did much to the roof. The original Dicor caulk is literally toast. All dried up, split, heavy dirt imbedded. The white shed layer of the EPDM is cracked like lighting bolts everywhere. These campers are the same age as mine. I never knew how much the 303 really does for the good of the caulk and the rubber, by cleaning the roof correctly and using the 303, until I saw it with my own eyes, on the same age roofing system, that is not washed, and not cared for on the caulk. The UV kills the caulk and the shed layer on the rubber. Not to mention the heavy flexing of the camper from towing in the 4 corners of the roof system. That splits the caulk big time, even if the caulk is in good shape. I saw that on my big one in 2010 and I was being anal about the caulk. The roof was spotless on the caulk in November, come March after a snowy winter, there was a big split in the corner from being stored outside on a 6 year old camper. That is when I said, even I could not keep up this caulk mess, it is not going to cut it. Thus the Eternabond was born and is the best thing I ever did for the roof sealants. Using only caulk as your primary seal against water intrusion on a camper roof, is a leak waiting to happen if you plan on keeping a camper much past 5 to 8 years. Especially if the camper lives outside all the time. Eternabond, 303 and taking care of the roof is the winner. Let us know what you come up with on your roof. Thanks John
JBarca 03/23/21 09:39pm Travel Trailers
RE: Best Roof Coating

Hi TECMike, Thanks for the good words. I too have a lot of eternabond up there. Every Dicor'ed anything that was a primary water seal was Ebonded over starting back in 2010. Here is my roof after being washed 2 summers ago. This is a 16 year camper. I washed it 4 times a year when it lived outside all the time until 2013 when the new barn came. Now 2 times a year being stored inside. And I put 303 UV protectent on everything up there after washing it. The 303 for sure helped. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51064616202_3efc21b782_o.jpg To your question about only coating the areas that are not eternabonded, when mine comes time to be coated, I was looking heavily into the high solids silicone treatment. The Henry's or the Crazy Seal. They will cost more then the other coatings, but this all comes down to how much longer does one want to keep the camper? Do you need a 50 year warranty? In my case, it could be another 16 years or more. I may get a new one sometime or a different one, but I do not think I will ever get rid of this one. Like yours, everything in it is dry and in top maintained shape. I sealed every siding joint too. Trust me I spent $$$ maintaining it. When I installed the Ebond, I put a light coat of non sag Dicor caulk on the exposed sealant edge of the E bond. This flowed over about 1/8" to 1/4" onto the Ebond. I did this to not have dirt stick the exposed E bond layer. I'm not sure what you did. When I coat the roof, I will coat over that Dicor and stop there just past the Dicor. That is due to the coatings I am looking at. Since I 303 the Ebond, there is no notable degradation on the white layer of the Ebond. Since I still need to treat all the roof plastic up there, this would not be an extra step, just do it when I treat the rest of the plastic. The folks with the Heng's, for me that is an unknown. I have no data to prove it is a problem other then the issues I have found on other brands of acrylic coatings. If the coating did lift off the Ebond, as long as it did not tear into the main roof coating, it may not be an issue. If it would make a clean break and stick solid at the end of the Ebond and not cross it, well you can see it and then figure out what to to. You could also coat up to the Ebond from the start and not go onto it. If your Ebond has no signs of top layer degradation, that at least helps give you part of an answer. From what I know, if the top of Ebond is UV treated frequently, at least 2 times a year, more is better, the Ebond may last as long as the camper will. Hope this helps. John
JBarca 03/22/21 07:05pm Travel Trailers
RE: Best Roof Coating

JBarca is a smart guy and I wouldn't ever consider debating with him. But the Heng's acrylic latex coating I put on my EPDM roof, that by the way has lots of Eternabond tape, is holding up quite well. I don't know about water ponding as my roof is peaked so it all runs off. The only place I've ever seen any ponding is on the high side edge of the refrigerator vent, and that area is as intact as the rest of the roof. As it's easy to apply and is holding up well, I expect it'll be my go to product if recoating is ever again necessary. Maybe geography plays into it, I dunno. My trailer lives outside pretty far north in the inland northwest. Snowy winters and sunny summers with generally low humidity. Just reporting my experience. Hi Turnthepage, Thanks for the good words. I know your screen name from over the years as a respected one. I am very open minded and the learning never stops. Lets compare notes and I will clarify some of my comments. Let start with the coatings not sticking to Eternabond. When I bought my small batch of silicone coating from Crazy Seal, I quizzed them a lot about how the product works and if it will adhere to Eternabond. They told me it will not create a long term bond. They have seen it lift over time. There are work arounds for this, they just clarified their product will not bond long term to Ebond. In 2010 I Ebonded my entire camper and the roof is still pristine for 16 years, just the shed layer of the EPDM is thinning. The Ebond saved the seams of that camper which is why I needed to know if the silicone coating would adhere. I have a plan for this when I do the large open areas in the future, but the Ebond will remain on the camper, just not coated. I camp with a group from the Sunline club, the brand camper I have and others I have restored. There are several of us that talk a lot and we see what each has done to the camper when we meet up. Last summer we camped with a friend who used the Dicro acrylic coating to restore his 21 year old camper EPDM roof 3 years ago. He had Ebonded all the seams prior and he coated over them. During year 3, he started to see the coating lifting off the Ebond. That for sure peaked my interest. I went up on the roof from the side to see what he was talking about. Here are the pictures. The gutter rail area with Ebond under the coating. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51051991113_ac66e06cca_o.jpg A close up so you can see better https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51052803147_41e2fedc17_o.jpg A second area https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51051991078_2ab0656cc0_o.jpg Close up https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51051990993_32e7a7e162_o.jpg It took 3 years for this lifting to start. The rest of the camper does not show this yet, but it will be watched as the years go on. This adds some context to what I was saying. There is something about the slickness of top layer of Ebond that coatings have a hard time adhering to it long term. This may not be an immediate no stick thing. Pending the coating, it may not even be a problem if the coating lift stops at the edge of the Ebond. The point being, it may not adhere long term. How long ago did you coat your roof? The camper in the pics lives in NW Ohio with mid west humidity, snow and freezing temps. He does put his camper in storage for the winter months. It lives outside the rest of the time. Please report back as the years go on yours if you see it lifting. It may be Heng's has something different or it just takes longer for the effect to show up. To the ponding water comments, some non walk on camper roofs have the roof support system to allow the membrane to sag slightly, and water ponding can occur in those areas. A seasonal camper what never travels, would be large issues as the pond will never drain until it all evaporates. See this pic from a 2005 camper roof I was doing some repair on for a friend who just bought it from a dealer. The caulk failed on the front seam, a leak started, then someone went up and put more caulk on. Look at the blackened molded area stain on the rubber roof. You can see where the water was ponding. The EPDM rubber was under water. It EPDM survived well, the front seam with bad caulk leaked. https://live.staticflickr.com/7806/47529711272_b68b3cfa81_o.jpg If a camper has a roof structure that allows ponding like that to happen, it should be realized as it may be a coating problem. The coating has to handle being under water for periods of time that may take days to evaporate off. This is especially a concern on a seasonal site where the camper never moves or a camper stored between camping trips. Some acrylic coatings have a characteristics of breaking down, again over time, due to being submerged under water a long time. A camper that sheds water all the time or one that is towed a lot, may not have an issue other then when it is stored and it rains. The ponding issue it something to confirm with the coating manufacture their coating is not affected by it to make sure you are OK. I have no data to report what a long time is. Hope this puts the comments in context. Thanks John
JBarca 03/19/21 11:53am Travel Trailers
Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 4  
Next


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:




© 2021 CWI, Inc. © 2021 Good Sam Enterprises, LLC. All Rights Reserved.