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 > Your search for posts made by 'JRscooby' found 725 matches.

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RE: The world of tow vehicles would be a better place if

How about a C-15/C-16 tucked under the hood of a F350..... LOL! By the time they beefed up to hold the weight, added the engine, you would likely be over the class 3 weight. Easier would be replace the cab on a class 8. But if you showed up at a CG towing a large camper some would get panties in a wad because the fender emblems where overloaded.
JRscooby 01/18/22 06:58am Tow Vehicles
RE: The world of tow vehicles would be a better place if

The oil embargo was 40-45yrs ago...not particularly relevant to today. Yes, the oil embargo was 45 years ago. As far as how it relates to the discussion, What would make Tow Vehicles Better, I think in a prefect world, or even one better than we have, somebody could buy a pickup powered by a used engine, as long as the technology of the engine was not to outdated. I mentioned the embargo as something that force a major change in diesel engine technology. (At the time I was driving a '67 Pete with 12V71 2-stroke. I had a driver in a '70 KW, with 1693 Cat. Both would run about 4 MPG. My '95 Pete, 3406E Cat would beat 6 unless I was doing doing something stupid. When you think that everything you buy, except the ground it sets on rode on a truck to get to you it is hard to believe anybody can think the oil embargo is not relevant. And the fact that much of the population does not want to loosen the oil companies' grip on the collective sack is evidence we are slow learners, or fast forgetters
JRscooby 01/18/22 04:39am Tow Vehicles
RE: The world of tow vehicles would be a better place if

As mentioned HDT are a different world and not relevant to your 3/4 & 1 ton pickups. I would expect your average trucking company has qualified mechanics performing work. Your average guy with a 20yr old truck that he's stringing along likely cuts a lot of corners...so your assumption that the engine transfer would be done professionally is sketchy at best. I'm sure individuals mostly could care less about the engine technology but that doesn't mean it must meet current regulations and that it must mate with the new technology on your new chassie. As far as keeping a truck going for 40yrs...if you dump $40-50k into the chassie, you can do a major overhaul making it like new at 20yrs (probably a good bit cheaper if you don't live in rust belt states)...giving you an additional 20yrs. If it's really that the engine will last 40yrs, you can keep the chassie going and it's much more straight forward. Back in the days before oil embargo/big changes in engines, the Pete dealer had a kit being built in shop most of time. Anther dealer sold mostly assembled kits. I think you and I have a different view about who would be the market for class 2 and 3 trucks set up for older model engines. Most people I know that use old vehicles are more likely to replace a wore out engine with a newer 1. Sure, we can replace all the parts, repair rust, and drive forever. (For years I made sure we had a spare car incase I did not get DWs fixed in time) Many people, including a large percentage of RVers, buy new to be "sure" they don't need to deal with minor repairs and can have new model with all the bells and whistles. Then another group "I won't take that big hit when I leave the lot" buys what first group trades in. The third owners, that buy what 2nd group trades in are looking for cheap work trucks. If power seat doesn't work, drive it from where the seat is at. Now, if a dealer had the option to offer first group that wants a new truck, but "I don't know about that redesigned, want buy after we know it is good" he could dismantle something that he would send to auction, price it little lower than new. Might even sell to the 2nd group. Then think about good engines in wrecked trucks.
JRscooby 01/17/22 05:07am Tow Vehicles
RE: Dumb mistake

Back in the day I would let truck set overnight, then drain about 5 gallons of fuel out of each tank every fall to be sure no ice in winter. I would use that fuel for parts cleaner, add to the oil I turned in for recycling.
JRscooby 01/17/22 04:17am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Why consider 12v fridge for boondocking?

For the 15+ years I have been reading the net about RVs there is rarely a week that somebody doesn't post something about their absorption fridge not working as well as expected. That's understandable, considering that probably 99+ percent of all RVs are still equipped with them. When you have a lot of something, you also tend to have a lot of reports about problems with it. That is true. And it is also true that they can work trouble free. (Just before I was born, ('49) Dad bought a used absorption fridge. In '58 it was put in basement of new house, because we got new fridge. That new fridge has been replaced several times. Sometime when I was in service, that absorption fridge was moved to a lake cabin that was past the end of power lines. By 2010, power was at the cabin, but that old fridge was on the porch, full of cold drinks. When they leave the cabin, any food not to be carried home is put in the old fridge incase power goes out.) But that does not mean the modern technology is not better. But camping I prefer to use old tech for many things. (Even at home, if I decide to bake something in the summer I will light some charcoal, grab a DO) But many people take modern tech RVing with them. Nobody is wrong, IMHO. Now with all the talk of how great solar is while camping, often by the same class of people that rant about asking people to use it at home kinda baffles me. And for home use, I have often wondered about concentrating the heat, use that to replace flame in a absorption operated AC unit for homes and businesses.
JRscooby 01/16/22 03:04pm Travel Trailers
RE: Why consider 12v fridge for boondocking?

But my question is. Why do people think it's the hot ticket for boon docking? I can see if you're regularly driving and covering ground. For the 15+ years I have been reading the net about RVs there is rarely a week that somebody doesn't post something about their absorption fridge not working as well as expected. For many, the "hot ticket" seems to be go with a 120V compressor fridge. If a RV stores electricity it is a safe bet it is not storing 120 volt AC, but 12 V DC is likely. When you consider that every time you convert some of the electrons escape, IMHO it makes more sense to use in the same form it is stored. YMMV
JRscooby 01/16/22 08:26am Travel Trailers
RE: Why consider 12v fridge for boondocking?

Compressor fridges have become almost standard on camper vans, because they rarely stay stationary for many days at a time. Even a short drive will restore much of the battery bank if you have something like a Transit with dual 250-amp alternators or a Sprinter with an aftermarket 2nd alternator. Trailers tend to be more little stationary when boondocking, because when you leave for the day, you only drive the TV. That's how I use mine. It just becomes "home-base". So absorption fridges still make the most sense, unless the trailer has enough solar and is only parked in sunny locations. Something I have thought about for people that leave trailer while touring with TV; Add a deep cycle battery large enough to handle overnight loads to the the TV. Leave a battery bank on trailer, but the total of the 2 banks could be smaller than needed for the total stay. After a day of driving return to site with full charge in 1 bank. Turn off the trailer, plug TV in. Next morning, the battery on TV will need charge, but the trailer bank ready to carry thru the day. In theroy, loads when nobody home should be limited.
JRscooby 01/15/22 04:06pm Travel Trailers
RE: Why consider 12v fridge for boondocking?

I have had very limited experience with 12 V fridge. A friend had 1 installed in 99 when he bought his new Pete. About '06 he had to grab a bird to get home. Truck sat in truckstop outside Dallas (Summer sun, no shade) for over 3 days before I got there. I worked on the truck knew he had only same starting batteries I did. I expected to jump start his truck. When it started, I parked mine, grabbed a trash bag to MT fridge. Stole a ice cream bar, and put it in the wind for home.
JRscooby 01/15/22 11:39am Travel Trailers
RE: The world of tow vehicles would be a better place if

The talk of picking engine to put in any brand off truck has been common in heavy trucks forever. IMHO, a great improvement in TV market would be for the manufacturers to sell glider kit or complete trucks without engines, so a guy that spent all the money to buy a truck with half million mile engine can use the engine for it's lifespan. And to give you a reason I think this is good idea, I bought a '76 Pete with a 1693 Cat. Records on the engine showed that was the 3rd truck. 1) No manufacturer is going to purposely cut out a big part of the cost of a truck...including the associated profits. I thought the OP was discussing a better world. But you are right, as long as people are willing to throw half the engine life away when they replace a pickup the manufacturer is happy to sell. 2) The days of simple mechanical diesels are long gone. Over 20yrs (typical life of a truck), the technology is likely to be wildly different and limiting the chassie so it can plug and play with a 20yr old engine would be a huge hassle and likely to run up against emissions and other regulatory issues. I have looked at heavy trucks for over 50 years, seen changes in patterns. I remember ads in industry magazines from early '70s International selling Glider Kits (Steering axle, frame and cab) set up for 427 GMC spark plug motor. (Last 427 I worked was in '71 Diamond Rio) Back then, if you took good care of engine and drive train, the numbers often worked to upgrade at parts counter than (GK) instead of show room. Then the oil embargo forced major changes in engines. (Friend replaced his 8V71 that needed overhaul with 6V92 in his old cabover IHC. Said by the time he changed oil 3rd time had saved enough fuel to pay the difference) At the same time, laws changed so GK stopped selling. But over the last 15 years, emission regulations change, some are buy GKs and running older engines, (3406E out of my last truck, '95 Pete, is in 2019 Western Star) And how many people on this site have bought new pickup, with all the whiz-bang tech, had problems and been told the best solution is to delete the emission control system? Nobody will admit that for a very large percentage of RVers a better available option would of been buy gasoline powered where the emission system problems have been worked out to the point we have both more power and better economy than pre emission standard levels. A perfect world, another option would be use the last half of the life of the engine out of the truck that has started to nickel/dime you. Then you have the PR issues when people take photos of the new 2022 Brand X truck broken down on the side of the road because someone mucked up the engine install. Sorry, but I assume most people/shops that would take on the job of building a truck out of a pickup glider kit would be able to do a quality job. And would that PR be that much worse than multi-thousand dollar engine repair right after warrantee ends? Honestly, if you are OK with outdated technology, you can keep chassie and engine going for 40yrs...but after a point, it doesn't make much sense. If I could prove it, I would bet that a very large percentage of people don't much care about tech of engine as long as it does a good job, compared to the number that demand all of what I call FREDs in the cab.
JRscooby 01/15/22 06:13am Tow Vehicles
RE: Calculated MPG

“ Most fuel gauges are nearly useless even the ones that I carefully calibrated, the tank shapes just make it that way.” Interesting statement…. Maybe applies to antique vehicles? Remember hearing "Today's space launch has been postponed because of problems with the fuel volume sensors"? After I heard that a few times I thought with all the money they have to spend, and they can't trust their fuel gauge I will not be embarrassed to stick a old CB antenna in mine. From the time it was new, my pickup will drive much farther from fill-up to 3/4 than from 1/2 to 1/4.
JRscooby 01/14/22 01:50pm General RVing Issues
RE: Calculated MPG

I check it every now and then. No need in adding more stuff to do, especially on a trip. People already take too long after filling up! Most of my life I have recorded all expenses on my work vehicles, but at the pump I only note the mileage on receipt. Vehicles that I don't use for work, mostly not that critical. Some, just put $2-3 in every time I use. My currant pickup, I rarely fill, but mark gallons every time I put in, then total when I do. IMHO, knowing change in fuel consumption is pretty important.
JRscooby 01/14/22 07:20am General RVing Issues
RE: The world of tow vehicles would be a better place if

The talk of picking engine to put in any brand off truck has been common in heavy trucks forever. IMHO, a great improvement in TV market would be for the manufacturers to sell glider kit or complete trucks without engines, so a guy that spent all the money to buy a truck with half million mile engine can use the engine for it's lifespan. And to give you a reason I think this is good idea, I bought a '76 Pete with a 1693 Cat. Records on the engine showed that was the 3rd truck.
JRscooby 01/14/22 04:28am Tow Vehicles
RE: Anybody launching a boat with a Class A?

One thing nobody has mentioned that IMHO would be a major PITA. Most people I have seen that camp with boats leave site with boat on trailer, launch, then the pickup/boat trailer sets in PL while they boat. Come in, retrieve boat, and return to campsite, that is already set up. Will the spaces in that PL be large enough? And will you run Gen for AC all day or get in a MH that has been setting in sun all day, then set up camp again? A idiot hitch would eliminate all the driving problems cause by not seeing trailer, plus the drive tires would be on dryer pavement, reduce chance of wheel spin.
JRscooby 01/12/22 06:27am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Bed mat and cutting out for factory bed holes?

Do the pucks have threaded holes? If so, cut head off bolts and screw them in. Tap cardboard or mat (plywood?) with hammer, this would make marks for center. You may want to look up what a “puck system” is in these newer trucks. Why should I bother? I don't need to mark holes. The OP is/was wanting ideas. If mine will not work, it might give him another. Worse case, wasted a few electrons.
JRscooby 01/11/22 03:47pm Truck Campers
RE: Mystery Battery Draw While Parked UPDATE

It may be tedious but I'd start removing fuses, one at a time, check current draw after each fuse removed ... reinstall the removed fuse and move on. I have a 1156 lamp that I can clip in place between batt post and the disconnected cable. Watch lamp as you pull/replace fuses.
JRscooby 01/11/22 08:09am Tow Vehicles
RE: Stranded in Marietta, GA

Freezing temps at night. The mobile tech went through all the air components when be was here. They are pretty confident that I need a compressor. My greatest fear is my RV getting damaged by towing. The other concern is time. Nobody so far can fit it into their schedule. For decades most trucks have had air dryers from factory. If they are maintained, airline freeze-up is not a issue. In the years before I retired I noticed a large percentage of pro drivers did not understand opening valves in the bottom of the tank to check for moisture buildup is a good idea. Bet most RVers never knew. There is a good chance, IMHO, that a tech from the south has never dealt with a system freezing up. The outside temp can be well above freezing, and ice still form where air moves from high to lower pressure. Look at the system. Trace the big air line from compressor to the first tank, it should have a petcock, (Maybe auto drain valve, maybe valve with lanyard) Use your propane torch, heat that tank near that valve until you can touch, but can't hold with bare hand. Open the drain (If auto, may need to remove. If you have pressure in tank unscrew part way to let it leak. Don't let it hit you if it blasts out.) If you don't get any water out, then I might think about a bad compressor.
JRscooby 01/08/22 09:28am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Stranded in Marietta, GA

Just another thought; How cold is it there? How long has it been since you drained air tanks to check for water? Damp air, going thru valves where the pressure can ice up cause problems to make you pull your hair out.
JRscooby 01/08/22 08:11am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Stranded in Marietta, GA

I have a hard time standing under the issue getting a compressor. On a truck, changing one is not that hard on side of road, but might need a curved 12 pt wrench for bolt or 2. Before I would tow, assuming you have a genset, I would hook a electric compressor to the tank. Driving without a dependable air supply? NO
JRscooby 01/08/22 06:54am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Pop ups

From what I see, in campgrounds and on line, people in Popups are more likely to be camping, enjoying the outdoors, compared to others. Park the unit in a site, and if they are in the site, more likely to be inside. Set up and take down every day can be a PITA for traveling, and I would never feel comfortable in rest area or suburban boondocking. OTHH, my pickup gets close to same MPG towing the PUP as it did on daily commute. (Yes, highway w/o trailer would be better) When I have towed a full height trailer gas mileage took a big hit. First summer after I retired I tried Campground Host. The others said "Are you going to spend a month in that little thing?" Pointed out that I would spend week or to at a time camping in a 5X8 sleeper. To stay for a week or more it might take a couple of hours to set up my kitchen, dining room, and living room, but for a couple of nights don't need to do it all.
JRscooby 01/08/22 05:40am Folding Trailers
RE: Trailer Braking System Needs Servicing

I would use this. AMAZON for $15 Copy and paste below. Hosa D5S-6 CAIG DeoxIT 5% Spray Contact Cleaner, 5 oz. DeOxit is better than WD-40. So is FluidFilm. Think about it for a second. Are any of us sure what the problem is? W D stands for Water Disbursement. I used it often inside distributer caps to start engines after they got wet (Point & Condenser). It will do no harm. Now is there better things for it? Sure. But I bet the OP has a can around, or can pick some up for few bucks. If he uses, the problem goes away, he knows where the issue is. If it comes back, that would be the time to spend for the better stuff, or even better, seal it up so water can't get in.
JRscooby 01/05/22 02:53pm Tow Vehicles
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