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 > Your search for posts made by 'JRscooby' found 754 matches.

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RE: Why do I keep blowing out tires on my truck?

Point, underinflation will cause blowout, over-inflation, very unlikely. Overload can cause blowout. Had 2 blowouts RR of a trailer. The third tire, I used white shoe polish to make 'whitewalls' on all of the trailers. With evidence, I adjusted the driver's attitude
JRscooby 08/01/21 07:23am Tow Vehicles
RE: Problems hitching and un hitching

NamMedevac, that is a clever solution! I will file that one away in the "just in case" folder. Thanks! Not really that clever. If the TV receiver does not move exactly parallel with the ballmount it can bind and pull the trailer, bending the jack. I don't think I have ever seen a coupler that did not adjust, and I'm positive I would never buy one. With the tongue secure on the jack, put your shoulders on the ground where you can see how the latch works. On most there is a wedge that can drop down and back when you work the lever. Now the linkage will pull it up/forward but does not push it open. Once the wedge moves back, the ball is free to travel. But before it can move down in relation to coupler, it must move back. Any bind in the wedge to keep it from dropping on it's own, the ball will not force it. That bind can come from trailer pushing against TV, (or TV push trailer, force is same) if on hill. Or, if trailer is pulling back from TV, the ball is held in the cup-shaped space at the front of coupler. But if the issue happens every time you unhook it is most likely that cleaning and lube will solve the issue. BTW, most times I unhook I pull the pin, stick the ball back in coupler, and latch it. Protect shins from grease (and knots), keeps road dust off ball, the right ball/mount is with trailer next tow. And most important to me, when I pull the ball out, mount it back on TV, I know the wedge is open to reduce the chance of latching it above the ball/dropping the trailer.
JRscooby 08/01/21 05:53am Travel Trailers
RE: Question about lowering unhitched 2 wheel travel trailer

I really would not use a cinder block... I like solid blocks of wood. I use a couple of 4x8 blocks that are only around 18" long and stack them. I can break a cinder block with a small hammer... Or just dropping it.. The cinder block is heavier than my chunks of scrape wood, so there you go.. :) Good luck! Mitch Thank you! OP to address your question; Most, if not all people that sleep in trailers adjust the height of tongue after unhook to level front to back. The only issue is with trailer chocked tight long travel on a short trailer it can stress where the jack mounts to tongue, or try to bend jack. This stress is eliminated by a wheel on the bottom of jack. Now sometimes the jack does not have enough travel. Prop the tongue on blocks, then adjust block under jack
JRscooby 07/31/21 04:51pm Travel Trailers
RE: Ultimate payload monster?

"Trucks have outgrown these classifications and limitations yet the manufacturers ratings are restricted by them regardless if the trucks can actually carry more weight." EXACTLY!!! Or have the manufactures decided to badge their trucks lower than what they should so they make the ads look better? And with the weight of all the comforts pickups did not have when most where used to work, need the extra GVWR to haul the same amount? All the F350s I had GVWR was 10,000. But both Fords that had "superduty" badge had 850 in VIN.
JRscooby 07/31/21 10:08am Tow Vehicles
RE: Ultimate payload monster?

"Cummins12V98 wrote: No one is going to respond directly to my question of how my SAE rear axle rating plus unloaded front axle weight is 1.000# over my 14k GVWR??? JRscooby said.......Sorry, I kinda thought I did. You did but didn't explain why. As a example, how much will the frame flex?
JRscooby 07/31/21 09:52am Tow Vehicles
RE: Ultimate payload monster?

I ain't much smarter than a box of rocks, but I would guess there might be other components that limit GWR? BTW, I don't think I have ever seen a weight tag where the total of axle weights is not greater than GVWR. On a pickup you won't see that but on commercial trucks you likely will. My former motorhome, a 1998 E450 based C had a RGAWR of 9450 and a FGAWR of 4600 and a GVWR of..... 14050. Those axle weight ratings are lower than those of a 350/3500 series dually pickup yet the GVWR is just over 14K, probably to put it into the class 4 truck group and reduce the emission requirements. Fast forward to today. The new E450 has axles of 9600/5000 and a GVWR of 14500, again lower axle ratings than a new F450 dually, which can be as high as 9900/6000. Yet the GVWR of said truck is only 14000. If this isn't evidence of the OEMs artificially lowering GVWRs of pickup trucks to keep them in a given DOT weight class, I can't imagine what is. If Ford used the same criteria for the F450 pickup (not cab and chassis) as the E450 cutaway its GVWR would be 15,500 or more. I'm sorry, I have worked with "commercial trucks" trucks most of my life. And I confess, I have not checked the numbers on all that many what is called mid-range (With 5 to 7 on the door) I know of the 4 Fords I owned, all of them total of axle weights was greater than GVWR. ('67? F750, Holmes 600 wrecker, '63 N750, 11ft dump body, '56 F5, 8 ft dump, (mostly toy, but did haul enough to pay for plates, and towed the Bobcat some) and '74 F500, with 10 ft tool body) Most of the trucks, I don't remember all the numbers, but the LT 9000s and the Macks all had 18 fronts and 44,000 tandems (By the time I was buying them I had broke enough parts to go with HD) GVWR was 50-52,000 on them. The '76 Pete, retired oil field rig-up truck, had a 12,000 front, and 52,000 rears, GVWR of 56,000, GCVWR 80,000. (Over the decade I had that truck I up-graded the steer to 20, doubled the frame, added a 20,000 lift axle. Last job we worked, hauling asphalt about 80 miles. Load the truck to just under the 80,000 limit, print a ticket. Pull the pup under the chute, load 15 tons, get a 2nd scale ticket, and work that Cat 1693, 2 stick 5&4 up the back roads. Good times, good money) Had a Freightliner and Pete, both factory set up with 20,20, and 46. Both GVWR of 65,000. A LTL Ford, 20,& 46 GVWR 60,000 (Bed installer added 20 lift axle. My last Pete, a tractor, had 12& 40s, for a 50,000 GVWR. I have to stand by the idea most trucks the GVWR is less than sum of axles.
JRscooby 07/31/21 06:08am Tow Vehicles
RE: Ultimate payload monster?

No one is going to respond directly to my question of how my SAE rear axle rating plus unloaded front axle weight is 1.000# over my 14k GVWR??? Sorry, I kinda thought I did. I ain't much smarter than a box of rocks, but I would guess there might be other components that limit GWR? BTW, I don't think I have ever seen a weight tag where the total of axle weights is not greater than GVWR GVWR is a JOKE!!! Someone please tell me how I can stay at or under 14k when my RAWR is 9,750# and my unloaded front axle weight is 5,250# when they add up to 15k. My solution is to have tonnage enough to cover my 6 tires load. Even worse with my 2000 F250 diesel, to get to its 6100 lb or so RGAWR without exceeding its 8800 GVWR, I would have to pile all the weight behind the rear axle to unload the front axle from its 4500 lb or so empty weight to under 2800 pounds. Far safer to load the truck at 5500 on the rear, 4500 on the front even though at those weights I'm exceeding the GVWR by 1200 lbs. Nothing "ILLEGAL" about either of these options. Reality per federal bridge laws, Cummins can go to 32k gvw, 20k on rear 12k or so on FA before being over the FBL standards. RJ can hit 10-12k on his two axles ALSO before being over wieght per FBLs. There are other issues that will get them off the road... Wieght will not be an issue, assuming they have the correct paid for tonnage. Just like I've been pulled over multiple times, been thru DOT scale house upwards of 26000 gvw, I have yet to get an overweight ticket. Even tho door jam tag says gvwr is 18200. By the way, door tag sticker is in OM in my office. A lot of what others have implied are correct if your going after manufacture warranty performance ratings. Add more options, get a heavier engine, tranny, dual alternators, AC, power windows etc, ALL take away payload, assuming FA and RA have the same numbers. Ext cab also heavier than regular, crew is heaviest yet. Choose poison, hope it works for you, how you want to use it...... Marty I find it interesting that a moderator would say that federal bridge laws make it legal to exceed the listed axle and tire ratings on truck. Once you exceed GVWR you hit a grey area. While axle and tire may be considered legal to some, a lawyer will go after the statement in owners manuals that is is unsafe to exceed any of the weight numbers on the VIN tag. Well moderator or not, if he knows what his talking about, why shouldn't he say it? The only weight rating that will be enforced on CMVs is the tires. (Now the GVWR will be used to determine if driver has the right class of DL) RVs get less, if any enforcement. I once paid a lawyer to have a judge explain to a badge carrier the ratings where no reason to waste paper. My last Pete, had a GCVWR of 80,000. But the state issued a blanket permit, if a load that I could buy a permit to move put my gross 100,000 or less, I did not need to make a call for special permit. And with the right combination of trailers the states will sell permit for weights well above that. Hauling city weights, with a tandem axle trailer, if my load ticket said 100,000 the weight watcher would not even pull out his scales because he knew my axles would be within tolerance.
JRscooby 07/30/21 06:05am Tow Vehicles
RE: parking on a slight driveway

I wish I could be a part of the "slight driveway" category. My driveway slope isn't extreme, but you can sure see extreme from here. I let the trailer tilt when not in use so gravity can do its thing with the rain. But when we're preparing to go I crank up the jack as far as I can and it's STILL not level. Close, but not level. Every time I move the slide out when we're prepping I wonder how much unwanted stress I'm putting on the the slide. So far so good, but I do wonder... Before you unhook, do you have room to put a block under jack?
JRscooby 07/30/21 05:27am Travel Trailers
RE: Jacking up 5th wheel?

Asking for trouble if you put the jack under the curved U bolt. Put it under the lowest spring leaf next to the axle. A flat surface not prone to slipping. Or you could buy, or make, something like THIS. Lyle With the tire flat how do you get that under the axle? IMHO, the first step is pull the flat up on ramp you use for leveling until the center of axle is as high as normal. Getting jack, (and my fat self to work the jack) is easy. Only need to jack up enough to pull ramp out, much less jacking. And most important, you can't have the issue of you get the wheel off, but you are not high enough to get the inflated tire back on. If the trailer falls, there is no wheel to catch it, much less room to be under there pumping the jack.
JRscooby 07/30/21 05:22am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Looking for Recommendations on Floor Jacks

Interesting theory. My 12t shorty hyd jack has non of your limitations you mention. And my trailers (rv and commercial) axles don't travel in a big enough arc to be any kind of a issue. This old jack is heavy and made all 1.2 million miles when I was towing for a living. It also been in three different 5th wheel rv trailers with countless thousands of miles for over 30 years. Guess we have differing experiences with hyd bottle jacks. Let me see, are you saying in all the times you have used your jack you have never put it in position, started to lift the load, then "oh snot" let it back down, and changed position to try again? I think it is often the arc putting side pressure that caused this. Think for a minute. You and I have had enough experience doing this kind of thing, that while we are doing it we don't even think about why it is going wrong, we just stop and regroup. But we are not looking for info on what is the best size/brand of the wrong kind of jack to get. Now, sitting on the couch, trying to pass on experience thru a keyboard, without knowing anything about the skillset of the reader, I try to show what can happen/what to watch. And most important, the need to watch. As for jacks leaking; Truth be told, old jacks unless abused are less likely to leak. That is why if I needed to say push a bin with 16+ tons of rock sideways I grab the 2 20 ton China made units because I don't want to put the side pressure on the good ones. Would someone explain why they would not use a TrailerAid or stepped wood blocks??? Not sure how you get a shorty bottle jack under the axle with the tire flat causing the axle to hang low. If you suspension has a lot of travel or wide spread, it can take a lot of blocks under 1 axle to get the other off the ground. I'm sure others have their favorite methods of raising a tire off the ground...but it don't worry me how others do it. Just get'r done. This brings up a point; In the dark or rain, with traffic rolling by, is not the best place to go to school. A nice day, in your driveway, (or better yard so you understand about soft ground under where working) change a tire. Know what doesn't work on your setup.
JRscooby 07/30/21 05:06am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Check you cooling stack!

I assume you are talking about the radiator? Radiator, yes but it is part of a stack. Most vehicles will have a AC condenser in the same air flow. Others will add oil and power steering coolers. Few have air trans coolers. Diesel likely adds a intercooler. The more stuff in the stack, the harder it is to clean, and the more important it is.
JRscooby 07/29/21 07:00am Tow Vehicles
RE: Ultimate payload monster?

GVWR is a JOKE!!! Someone please tell me how I can stay at or under 14k when my RAWR is 9,750# and my unloaded front axle weight is 5,250# when they add up to 15k. My solution is to have tonnage enough to cover my 6 tires load. I ain't much smarter than a box of rocks, but I would guess there might be other components that limit GWR? BTW, I don't think I have ever seen a weight tag where the total of axle weights is not greater than GVWR. GVWR isn't just about dead weight. Consider suspension, brakes, stopping distant, stability when turning/swerving, weather, road conditions etc. Maybe other factors like mfg libiality etc. Meh…. Easier to consider learning how to drive than worrying about all that fodder! IMHO, when it comes to hauling or towing, knowing your actual weigh, how it compares to ratings of you vehicle, and how it can effect " stopping distant, stability when turning/swerving" is a pretty important part of "learning to drive", but you do you.
JRscooby 07/29/21 05:40am Tow Vehicles
RE: Check you cooling stack!

I don't know if it really helps, but after I air up my tires for a trip I replace the air chuck with a blow nozzle and MT the compressor tank around the fan to blow out what I can.
JRscooby 07/29/21 05:19am Tow Vehicles
RE: Looking for Recommendations on Floor Jacks

My main issue with bottle jack is the short handle. Not because it limits power or anything. If that was issue, get the bigger jack. But with the jack under the vehicle a longer handle will not swing. So to work the jack you need to be under the vehicle. But as you pump you can see if jack is under pressure to slip or lean, so fall unlikely. If the vehicle falls at this point injury is very unlikely, you had room to get in there at bottom of fall. Now some jack lean when lifting 1 end of a axle can't be avoided. The end of axle goes up in a arc, centered at ground/other end tire contact. The real danger is when you think you are high enough, remove the flat, discover the inflated tire will not fit. When you get under to lift more, you are at risk. A fall will let vehicle drop below where it started, no more room for you. And as you jack it up, more jack lean. Another issue is the limited travel of jack. A short jack that will fit under the axle with flat, but run out of lift before you can get tire back on. Now I bet most RVers still carry something to pull the trailer on to level. Pull the flat onto that kind of ramp, get the center of axle as high as normal. Only need to jack up enough to get ramp out. The shorter lift means the jack does not need to lean as much. Any jack will be a fairly big hammer beating on things if not secured when traveling. And bottle jacks, if stored laying down are known to leak. Now they don't hold much fluid, and it is a pretty thin oil, so you might not notice the leak. But next time you need to use it, and get close to full stroke, the jack will notice it.
JRscooby 07/29/21 05:02am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Looking for Recommendations on Floor Jacks

I am going on a long road trip and I am trying prepare. Do you all use a floor jack when you have blow outs or do you just use the truck's jack? I was looking at getting 1 1/2 ton floor jack to carry with me. Thanks. Many do that carry a floor jack do not understand when you need that jack you are unlikely to have a major component required to safely use that jack, the floor. They are designed to operate on a hard smooth surface. As the lift platform goes up, it moves back in relation to wheels. On a floor, the carriage rolls to stay under load. Most times on the side of road the wheels sink, the platform slips on axle, vehicle falls. truckers Special 12t shorty hyd bottle jack placed under the axle next to the U bolt. This lifts one end of the axle enough to remove the flat and install the spare. If you use the drive on blocks make a dry run at home. Some have found out the drive on ramp wasn't tall enough. Test at home is a good plan no matter what system you use.
JRscooby 07/28/21 02:59pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Ultimate payload monster?

Payload specifications are not realistic. Are you telling me that if you choose a lighter engine, you can load more on an identical rear axle? Axle or wheel rating minus empty rear weight is closer to truth. If the GVWR is the same, the lighter truck will have a larger payload. Now towing, when all the load is on the rear axle, engine weight might not matter as much. But when it comes to hauling, especially dense material where you can load more weight in front of bed, a lighter engine will make a difference. Back mid '90s a friend decided to buy a couple of new trucks. His driver wanted a Pete, but he bought Ford LTL9000 Both trucks had same engine, trans, all 4 axles, beds. The only difference was his had the XL interior. The driver got the XLT with more padding, carpets and such. The first day he brought the trucks to work the XLT was over 1,000 lbs heavier than the XL Now when I think about the long cabs, with all the power heated seats, power windows and other FREDs, in front of a short bed, pickups aren't set up to haul snot.
JRscooby 07/28/21 08:13am Tow Vehicles
RE: Weigh safe trailer ball with built in scale. Any comments?

To be honest, I'd be more concerned about balance than raw weight. I'd rather be 10% over tongue weight than to have weight balanced too far to the rear of the trailer. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6mW_gzdh6to Yah for sure. We have towed lots in life and prefer a slightly heavy hitch. But the trailer has some storage on the front and I think it would be nice to see a dynamic weight as it is easy to get carried away. Previous poster had a point though. Figure it out and then stay with the formula. Either way though I’m willing to spend the money on a scale to get it right. I hate doing the bathroom scale cantilever thing. Works but it’s a pita. I have not looked at the Cat for about a decade, maybe the price has gone up a lot. But the only time I spent near $100 on one was getting all 8 axles under a GCVW of about 130,000 legal. If you can't find a 3rd grader to do the arithmetic, I'm sure you have a calculator. Load everybody and everything you plan to take camping, go to scale. Remember if you tell them "re-weigh" you get a discount on all but first pass) Pass (A) TV and trailer both loaded and hooked up. this will give 4 numbers Steering, Drive, Trailer, and Gross If all are within ratings, carry on. If not, do you want to leave something home, or run over? Pass (B) just TV with what you carry in it this will only be 3 numbers, the trailer will be 0 Add S and D from pass (A) (Or subtract T from G on pass (A)) From that number, subtract G from pass (B) Now you have TW. Is that over for what TV can handle? Subtract G pass (B) from G pass (A) you have loaded trailer weight. Is the percentage in the range you want?
JRscooby 07/27/21 04:33pm Towing
RE: Weigh safe trailer ball with built in scale. Any comments?

No experience with that, but some thoughts; How will it weigh without the chance of movement top to bottom? So you can't tow with it in place. It would work to weigh but I would thing a scale that you could set on top of/under a jack would work as well. Load and weigh, adjust until you get it right. Once you know where to put things you don't need to weigh that often
JRscooby 07/27/21 01:25pm Towing
RE: 8 people killed in Utah sand storm

So, your driving along at say 50mph, then a sandstorm fueled by strong winds takes away your visibility so you can't see past your bumper, what do you do? If you hit the brakes, you cause a chain reaction accident on the freeway, if you don't hit the brakes you sail right through it or hit the car in front of you that hit the brakes... Which do you think happened here? No one knows for sure, but on a straight road you would probably drive right out of it is you didn't touch the brakes and just held your car straight. These things happen because someone freaked out and tried to stop and the people behind them didn't. I almost got in a car accident because someone hit the brakes driving on wet roads, there was an unseen puddle and they hit the brakes in moderately heavy traffic, everyone else just held their course. Hitting the brakes causes the car to swerve vs holding your lane and riding through it. Decades and millions of miles of driving, and the only time things ever went from can see to drive 50, to can't see at all, was when I had a headlight issue. If you have your head where it belongs you can see that visibility is fading, or you can see a wall of dust, snow, rain, smoke that you can't see thru. If you drop your speed before you hit that wall, you will not hit anything hidden by that wall. There have been times when rain increased to the point I hope I'm on the shoulder. IMHO, for anybody to say "I must go, even when I can't see because a idiot might not see me stopped" takes a special kind of stupid. Now often trucks do hit, driving to fast for conditions. But normally the change in conditions is traction, not visibility
JRscooby 07/27/21 01:11pm General RVing Issues
RE: 8 people killed in Utah sand storm

I think some of you have never driven in an area where these kinds of things happen. There is no preparing for it. A sandstorm or whiteout happens in seconds. Yes me minute it’s clear as a sunny day then seconds later zero, and I mean ZERO, visibility. It’s one of those things you can’t prepare for. Yes you can see it up ahead after it happens, but when your first in line there is nothing you can do. I pray for all involved. Over a lifetime I have many times when snow, rain, or dust has reduced the visibility to the point I could not see the end of my hood. But I was never involved in a accident under those conditions. If you hit a vehicle in front of you because you could not see it I question your right to ever drive again. NEVER DRIVE IF YOU CAN'T STOP IN THE DISTANCE YOU CAN SEE! is one of the basic ideas of being in control of a vehicle.
JRscooby 07/27/21 07:01am General RVing Issues
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