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 > Your search for posts made by 'Lexx' found 29 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Is a stabilizer jack for fifth wheel hitch worth the money?

I am very sensitive to the rocking and rolling in fifth wheels. We have triplet 8 y.o. boys so there's a LOT of commotion going on at all times. So I had the Steadyfast stabilizer system installed. That seemed to great reduce the motions by about 80%. But we still felt the bouncing in our bedroom when the kids jumped off their rear bunks. So I installed the BAL kingpin tripod. That got us to about 95% elimination of the vibrations. I still feel a bit of it, but it's nowhere near as irritating now. I suspect BAL tripod helped because the Steadyarm system took care of most of the motion, but the master bedroom is partly suspended over nothing. And that's where my head is. So having the tripod under the kingpin really reduces the purposing effect when the kids are jumping.
Lexx 09/10/20 02:18am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Air conditioning in new 5th Wheel

Two ac units should handle the heat just fine. Here's what we did to our trailer to help: 1) I added 20% ceramic window film to all our windows. I applied a double layer of film to the biggest window over the dinette in the kitchen. I did all of this myself using Concord ceramic automobile film from Windowfilm.com 2) On our Coleman ac units, there is a divider bar that separates the exhaust air from the return air. This divider bar was improperly positioned, allowing the cooled conditioned air to mix with the return air, greatly decreasing the efficiency of the ac unit. I moved the divider bar to the correct position and used hvac foil tape to secure it in place. Go to Mygrandrv.com and do a search on this. Many including myself, have posts with pics on how to do this correctly. 3) I pulled all the vent covers off and felt inside around the ducting. I found that some of the vents were improperly taped to the ducting system that runs around the trailer. This allowed cooled air to vent into the space between the duct and the ceiling material instead of into the room. So I used that same foil tape to make sure all the vents were sealed to the ducting with no obstructions. 4) There is now a mod that you can buy to improve the airflow out of the vents, but at the cost of blocking off the dump function of the ac unit. Folks who have installed this have reported huge improvements in their airflow. Some folks have made a version of this kit themselves out of foam board. I'm about to do the same. https://rvairflow.com/ Making these 3 changes has greatly improved the performance of our ac system. We were in Las Vegas where it was 100° plus, and we had no problem keeping the trailer in the mid-70° range. You can also investigate adding a duct booster fan if there is any one duct that you really want more air out of. If your trailer door/s have any kind of window, get some ReflectX insulated foil to cover the window. That was another source of heat entry into our RV. One more thing. If you don't have a foam insert for the roof vents, get one. They really help to block out the heat from entering through the roof vents.
Lexx 09/10/20 02:12am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Anyone pulling over 12K with new Ford 7.3 Gasser?

The new diesels make towing so much easier. Effortless amounts of massive torque means you're never revving the engine unlike a gasser. And the exhaust brake is a godsend when coming down an 8% grade for several miles. With the adaptive cruise control engaged, I never even have to touch the brakes at all. It makes for a serene towing experence.
Lexx 09/10/20 02:01am Fifth-Wheels
RE: 5th Wheel with no dually truck

We tow a relative "light" fifth wheel with our F450. The overbuilt nature of the truck combined with the DRW really makes towing a breeze. That being stated, a SRW 3500 series will likely certainly have enough payload for a fifth wheel less than 15k lbs GVW.
Lexx 09/10/20 01:54am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Excessive Heat in Fifth Wheel

Two ac units should handle 91°. Here's what we did to our trailer to help: 1) I added 20% ceramic window film to all our windows. I applied a double layer of film to the biggest window over the dinette in the kitchen. I did all of this myself using Concord ceramic automobile film from Windowfilm.com 2) On our Coleman ac units, there is a divider bar that separates the exhaust air from the return air. This divider bar was improperly positioned, allowing the cooled conditioned air to mix with the return air, greatly decreasing the efficiency of the ac unit. I moved the divider bar to the correct position and used hvac foil tape to secure it in place. 3) I pulled all the vent covers off and felt inside around the ducting. I found that some of the vents were improperly taped to the ducting system that runs around the trailer. This allowed cooled air to vent into the space between the duct and the ceiling material instead of into the room. So I used that same foil tape to make sure all the vents were sealed to the ducting with no obstructions. Making these 3 changes has greatly improved the performance of our ac system. We were in Las Vegas where it was 100° plus, and we had no problem keeping the trailer in the mid-70° range. Mid-bunk designs typically have but one small vent into that room with pitiful airflow. One person took apart the wall in which the vent was run only to find that there was only framing with no ducting at all. At the very least, I would investigate adding a duct booster fan. This will massively boost the flow of conditioned air into that mid-bunk room. Oh and last thing. If your trailer door/s have any kind of window, get some ReflectX insulated foil to cover the window. That was another source of heat entry into our RV. One more thing. If you don't have a foam insert for the roof vents, get one. They really help to block out the heat from entering through the roof vents. This is a 4 part question. I have a Columbus Palamino 5th wheel and went camping this week in Texas. The temperature was only 91, but I was in full sun. I have 2 A/C units. A 15,000 btu Ducted Air Conditioning - Living Room and a 13,500 btu Ducted Air Conditioning - Bedroom, but my trailer got up to 88 degrees inside. I even had the fan on and window shades down. 1.) Is this normal being in full sun? 2.) If I tinted the windows would it help alleviate the heat coming in? 3.) I’ve seen the awnings that go over the slides. Are those worth it to help keep the heat out? 4.) The trailer is a mid bunk. The 2nd bedroom got up to 95 degrees. There was barely any air coming out of the air vent. I took the cover off and felt around but did not feel any obstruction. Is this normal for a 2nd bedroom to not get good airflow? Thanks - Jeff
Lexx 09/10/20 01:44am Fifth-Wheels
RE: New 5th Wheel Driver

A 2011 truck on original shocks probably should get new shocks. Your hitch will affect the ride of the combined vehicles. We have a 27.5k Reese hitch and I do get a big of chucking sometimes. I'm seriously thinking of getting a Reese Goosebox so that I only need a turnover ball in the bed that's easily removable. Also look at the yellow sticker on the driver's door that tells you what your payload is. Then take a look at the GVW of whatever trailer you're considering and add 20% of it's GVW to the payload that you'll be carrying. Add to that the weight of passengers, supplies, etc., to arrive at your total payload. You don't want to go over.
Lexx 09/10/20 01:32am Fifth-Wheels
RE: NorCal Hwy 101 in Marin County to Bodega Bay

Update: We just came back from a lovely trip to Bodega Bay. We had no issues towing our 34' fifth wheel. The funny thing is, the tightest turn was Highway 1 on the way out of Bodega Bay just before we turned into the Bodega Bay RV Park. It's one of of those classic switchback 270° turns along the coast. And it wasn't a problem. I drove all the way down to Point Reyes and up to Jenner in the just the truck, and none of those stretches of road would have been an issue for the trailer. Now I'm wondering how it would be driving from Jenner along the coast all the way up to Mendocino and up to Fort Bragg?
Lexx 08/14/20 04:45pm Roads and Routes
RE: NorCal Hwy 101 in Marin County to Bodega Bay

BTW We really like Hog Island Oysters down 1 towards Marshall. Others - be aware that most of 1 in CA is prohibited for MHs over 40'. Thank you for the info. It looks like the part of Hwy 1 right by Bodega Bay is the only part you can drive with a RV. I guess so long as I'm on Hwy 1 coming over the mountains down to the coast I'm ok, but I can't go any further north or south on Hwy 1 than Bodega Bay.
Lexx 07/22/20 08:42pm Roads and Routes
NorCal Hwy 101 in Marin County to Bodega Bay

We're planning a trip from the Sierra Foothills to Bodega Bay with our dually and 34 ft fifth wheel. I plan on going west on I-80, then cross San Pablo Bay on Hwy 37 to get to Hwy 101 North. I've been on these roads hundreds of times and I don't anticipate any issues. Google maps shows to take the W. Railroad Ave exit right before Cotati. That connects with Stony Point Rd., which leads to Roblar Rd., which connects to Valley Ford Rd., which then in turn becomes Hwy 1 to the coast. The Bodega Bay RV Park is right off Hwy 1. It's been years since I've been up and down Hwy 1. I remember the road being great for sports cars north of Bodega Bay up by Jenner. I don't remember how difficult a drive it is in the Bodega Bay Area. Any input would be appreciated.
Lexx 07/22/20 06:06pm Roads and Routes
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