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 > Your search for posts made by 'Lumpty' found 18 matches.

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RE: Handling “hard dried stuff” in the black tank ?

Buy some ice, like at least 30 lbs worth. Dump it down the toilet into the black tank. Add a little water. Also pour down the hole a lot of liquid laundry detergent. Then, go for a spirited, bumpy and curvy road drive. Afterwards. let it sit for an hour or two, then dump. That should get all the petrified poop out.
Lumpty 10/12/21 07:38pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Mildew

I have MaxAir covers over all my roof vents which are open when the RV is not in use. Anytime expect the heat of summer, I will use multiple DampRid tubs to suck the moisture out of the inside air. During winter, I'll change them out every couple of months. I also leave cabinet doors, the fridge and microwave open. Never had any mold/mildew issues, even living in the northeast with a lot of humidity and temperature swings.
Lumpty 10/04/21 06:12pm General RVing Issues
RE: Seats in a 2021 Forester Classic w/ Ford 450 chassis

If this is on a Ford, there is an OEM power base that should be available. I have one in my '11 E450 Sunseeker 2300, where my chassis was optioned that way in the Forest River fleet order. A harness jumper to the seat base may also be needed. There are some online parts diagrams available that could be a help. I agree, the power seat makes the somewhat confining Ford cab much more comfortable.
Lumpty 09/18/21 04:05pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: House battery recommendations.............

I have a pair of, IIRC for size, Group 31 AGM's I bought from Sam's Club 4+ years ago. Not outrageously priced, and have worked fine. No issues using all 12v stuff whenever needed for up to 48 hours. We almost exclusively dry camp at race tracks, and will only run the generator if A/C is needed or to use the microwave.
Lumpty 09/02/21 07:35pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: RV/CG site near Flowery Branch, Georgia

Any number of Corps campgrounds around Lake Lanier. There is also a Forsyth County campground in Cumming that the County took from the ACOE.
Lumpty 08/31/21 06:42pm RV Parks, Campgrounds and Attractions
RE: full size corner bed vs queen corner bed

We've got a corner queen, full 60x80. My wife, who can and does if given the opportunity sleeps 12 hours straight, is on the outside wall. Me, who has to get up at least once a night, takes the bathroom side of the bed. This is a Serta pillow top innerspring mattress that was an option for our year of Sunseeker, and while branded as an RV mattress is pretty much identical to an at-home bed. It's my job to put the mattress pad and fitted bottom sheet on, as that is a wrestling match done kneeling on the middle of the bed, and peeling up the RR corner to get those things started, same he-man action for the corner at the back of the bathroom and rear wall, then get off and do the other two corners at the toe-end of the mattress standing on the floor. For covers, everything is loose and thrown over. We each have different preferences for those when sleeping - she like her feet out and I don't for one, so we've taken to each having our our sheet and/or comforter. While that may be weird, it works for us and I sleep better. Our floorplan does not have a short closet overhanging the end of the bed. We don't find the bed area at all claustrophobic, and it was the only way to get the needed minimum living area in a short, no-slide, 24' length. To get out of bed, I just swing my legs up and down quickly, and that inertia scootches me down the bed so my legs can get down to the floor. It might take another move, but nothing hard for getting out the end.
Lumpty 04/22/21 05:08am Class C Motorhomes
RE: 5050 miles in 9 Travel Days

I don’t have quite the endurance I used to, but I routinely do Daytona home to northern NJ in a 15-16 hour trip, 1050 miles. The quicker elapsed times have been in either a Corvette or Golf Sportwagen, with the 16 hour mark driving the Class C. In that, the cruise set at an indicated 70, which is actually a true 68, and stopping just for gas, potty and eating on the road. Usually leave at 5:30am and in my driveway by 9:30pm. Another trip we do annually is to Elkhart Lake, WI. Leave there at 5am, which is a necessity to get around Chicago before the morning rush, lose an hour crossing into Eastern time, and again home in 15 hours in the motorhome for that 900 miles. My distance/time record is actually Topeka, KS back to NJ, in a GMC 2500HD crew cab towing a 20’ enclosed car trailer. 1250 miles in 18 hours. Left at 5:30am Central and home at 12:30am. That truck and trailer combo was super stable at 70-75; the glitch was the 26 gallon fuel tank and 9mpg meant stopping every 200 to 210 or so miles. That trip was 2007, and being 14 years younger made a different in how much stuffing I had. These days though, I like to be off the road by 9-10pm. Hence why I’m only good for 1000-ish miles. Also of note, these are just one-shot banzai runs to or from a destination I’m at for at least a week. I’m still working, so maximum time away for minimum vacation time.
Lumpty 04/13/21 05:51pm General RVing Issues
RE: Foremost insurance

Always used them for insurance on the two Class C's I've had, both registered in NJ which is not a cheap insurance state. Set up directly with the company; no agents involved. The premium on the 2011 Sunseeker bought new that I've had for 10 years now is $650 a year, with up to full cost of original purchase price coverage with $1000 deductibles, and $500k CSL liability. No reason to change companies, but never have had a claim so no experience to offer that way.
Lumpty 03/30/21 05:46pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: 6 liter V8 Chevy Vortec question

I've had, in order, a '94 E350 with an EFI 460/E4OD (245hp/410 ft-lbs, with a 4.10 rear), an '04 GMC 2500HD with the LQ4 6.0/4L80E (300hp/360 ft-lbs with 4,10's) and the current '10 chassis E450 that has a SOHC V10 and 5R110 (305hp/420 ft-lbs and a 4.56 rear). Up to a certain weight, about 15,000 GCW, the 6.0 was definitely the snappiest, and felt the most responsive. One time I had about 1000 lbs more in the trailer, approaching 9,000 lbs, pretty much right on the chassis limit of 16,000lbs GCWR, and it was not happy. Night and day how that 1,000 lbs emasculated it. mileage was always in the 8's, maybe 9 tops. Going back to the 460 in the 1st Class C, it was classic big block power and torque. I didn't ever tow heavy with it, at the most 5500-6000lbs and a GCE of 18,500lbs, right on the chassis rating, but the drivetrain just shrugged, never feeling stressed. Mileage though was terrible. Solo, 7-7.5, towing, 6-6.5. So onto the current V10. Never feels as eager as the 6.0 nor as unstressed as the 460, but after 80k+ miles, I am a begrudging fan. It has pulled 9000lbs, plus the 24' Class C it's in, all-up at 20,000lbs +. Solo mileage is around 8, towing 7, and has never pulled a hill (nothing out west but has done a bunch on the Mass Pike in the Berkshires and Fancy Gap on I-77) at less than 55, with plenty of pedal left. I agree the V10 does not make V8 noises; I'd much rather listen to the 6.0 LQ4 at 4500rpm than the V10, but for hauling ability, there's no comparison. The 2V SOHC V10 has gone into thousands of Class A's, which is not something that can be said for the 6.0. As cheap as RV manufacturers are, if it was a suitable engine for heavier weights, it would have been available in the Workhorse stripped chassis when they were available, instead of the 8.1 only.
Lumpty 02/13/21 07:43am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Ford Triton V-10 Info Request

The 2v V10 got the PI heads that made a bit more power (305/310hp depending on chassis compared to the original 275hp) and had more spark plug threads 2003 and later. That engine was just phased out of Class C's this year; the 3v heads were too big to fit in the Econoline doghouse and cab opening. The 5R110 trans replaced the 4R100 in 2005, with the 6R140 intro'ed in Class A's and C's only a few years ago. I have 80k miles on a 2010 E450 V10/5R110 chassis. The only things done to the drivetrain have been oil changes, a tensioner and serpentine belt, filters, trans fluid change and, and recently, plugs and coils (that was an ugh! job - 6 hours and every 1/4" and 3/8" extension, wobble and universal that I had got used!). I did have the electronic throttle sensor at the pedal go bad 3 years ago at 48k miles, but that was a fluke failure. This engine though, like the GM 6.0 and now 6.6 gas engines, needs RPM to make power. Mine will easily maintain 65-70mph in all terrain, but with the E450's 4.56 rear, needs a 5-4 downshift, which puts the V10 at 3800rpm. The engine doesn't care, but the typical driver used to big-block torque at lesser twist needs to adjust their expectations.
Lumpty 12/29/20 05:10am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Oil for generator

Another Rotella 15w-40 user here.
Lumpty 12/13/20 04:10pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Dumping at Home

My driveway goes to a side entry garage, with my septic tank located at mid-point of garage along the adjacent front wall offset about 10’ from the house. If I back the RV to that corner of the driveway, the dump outlet is about 25’ from the inlet clean-out to the tank. Grade is about 2-3% uphill towards the clean-out. So how to dump? A “Sewer Solution”. I’ve got a hose bib on the other side of the garage doors, and a double length of Sewer Solution hose connected together is plenty to get from connection to clean-out. Water power handles the slope fine. And no construction needed.
Lumpty 12/10/20 05:51pm General RVing Issues
RE: Complaints about Cost of Mhs vs Motels

As others have said, it all comes down to how you use your RV. Diesel pusher for a few weekends and one trip annually? That unit's a money sink to pour it down the drain. But how we have used our Class C, comparing the costs traveling in it compared to either driving a car and hoteling or a fly/car rental/hotel, it comes out far in the RV's favor. This C was $55k new and we're now in the 10th year of ownership. There has been some maintenance and repairs, only one expensive (new generator - $3k), a set of tires, oil changes and new plugs and coils pending. That stuff besides the genny adds up to $4k. Insurance is $700 a year. In the 77k miles driven, roughly $25k has been spent on fuel. With the current demand for RV's, it likely has a resale value of $20k. We also are in it generally about 40 nights a year, with the average cost of the park or race track spot coming in at about $40 night. So that's $14.5k. Vehicle registration here is $50/year. I could eliminate the food and drink we have because it's similar to if we stayed home, but for the travel comparison fruit to fruit, its about $30/day so $1,200 for the 40 days annually Total cost OOP for everything, in the middle of the 10th year of ownership? $67,000 +/-. That's everything, including vehicle depreciation. For mid-range hotel stay, and an average lunch for 2 people, one snack, and an OK but not extravagant dinner, that's $200/day. 40 days out and about for 9.5 years comes out to $76,000. And we haven't even gotten to where we are going yet, either by our own car or a plane and car rental. The actual fly-in cost would be much more. We follow our pro racing driver son around the country in the RV. Typically, event days have jacked up hotel costs. A prime example is for the Sebring 12-hour in Florida; anywhere you'd want to stay has rates like $300/night, with an 8 night minimum. My trackside RV spot there is $560, but I've paid as little as $100 unreserved for the 4 nights. There's no comparison there for money spent, even with the 2300 miles of gas and 36 hours of driving roundtrip. Someone could argue that $67,000 spent since mid-2011 is a waste of money, but this has been our primary mode of vacationing, and at 40 nights annually, works out to $176 and change a day. You have to do something for fun.
Lumpty 12/08/20 05:11am General RVing Issues
RE: Wisconsin recommendation?

We are at Road America for the IMSA weekend every year and always do a few days prior at Kohler-Andrae State Park near Sheboygan, right on Lake Michigan, and not far from where the track is near Elkhart Lake. One of our favorite State Parks, but the only hook-up offered is 30amp electric. Since most tracks only offer dry camping, having any kind of power is a luxury.
Lumpty 12/07/20 07:13pm RV Parks, Campgrounds and Attractions
RE: Fuel mileage 2009 F-450 6.4L

I had a 2010 F350 King Ranch 4x4 with a 6.4. 3.55 gears. Ugh. Not towing, around town 11-12, highway maybe 14-15. Not much different than the GMT800 6.0 gas LQ4 truck it replaced. It regened every 50-100 miles, and got that "Drive to Clean Exhaust Filter" all the time too, despite a fair amount of hour+ highway trips. The truck also had $20k+ in warranty work in 18 months. It had some kind of drivetrain issue (I suspected torque converter clutch) where it would have a loss of drive on a 5-4 downshift under load after getting good and warm. Lift and force the upshift back to 5th and it would go, but not after almost getting run over a few times and having to dive back into the slow lane. Then there was the overfuel/overboost it would do while in regen. 35psi and all the extra fuel. No wonder it melted two pistons at 24k miles, necessitating a new short block. Since it spent 3 months of that 18 months in the shop, it qualified for Lemon Law status in my state and Ford bought it back. The replacement '11 6.7 was way more stout and perfectly reliable, but it got traded at 5 years and 60k miles with the powertrain warranty was up, after that 6.4 experience. Also, not really interested in owning another diesel truck either with what that 6.4 put me through, even with the decent 6.7.
Lumpty 12/04/20 05:27am Tow Vehicles
RE: Long trips

Not retired here, and generally heading to destinations 15-20 times annually, up to 1200 miles one-way. While I'm not the road warrior I once was, I'm still Ok doing 800 to even up to 1000 miles a day (example: Daytona to home in NJ - about 16 hours - leave at 5:30am and arrive home at 9:30pm). We also like state and national park campgrounds, just about all that were originally constructed 60-80 years ago. Our 24' Class C does nothing exceptionally well, but isn't bad at anything either, and allows us to pretty much get into any place we choose. It's a small house on a heavier E450 chassis, with shock and sway bar upgrades, so unless dealing with 30-40mph wind gusts, it drives reaally well. Those stiff springs do make it ride hard, but for me the trade-off is worth it. We have plenty of tank capacity to dry camp 5-6 days, and just enough living space along with plenty of storage. We'll likely be replacing it in a few years, and are currently struggling with what to get. Likely might be almost the exact same thing, just with a slide, to fix that -just enough- interior room. Whenever we are inside a pusher, the real estate is awesome, but there's no way one of them could get into the types of off-the-beaten path parks and forest service areas we enjoy.
Lumpty 11/27/20 08:31am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Can this weight be right?!?!

2010 F350 King Ranch 6.4 diesel 4x4 shortbox was 8400. That got lemon lawed. The replacement F250 Lariat 6.7 4x4 shortbox came in at 400 lbs lighter, "only" 8000 lbs. Yours is a long bed, and if you were in it, yup, that tare weight is probably in the neighborhood.
Lumpty 10/29/20 06:31pm Tow Vehicles
RE: On the road breakdown stories..

March 2018, not even 25 miles from home after a 2500 mile trip, pulling out of a tollbooth and headed to an uphill exit ramp, on the 1-2 shift end up with idle power only. Torqued up the ramp off the toll road at idle creep, because getting towed off that in a Class C would have been an expensive experience. Then continued at that pace a mile up the next freeway, remembering there was a Ford dealer not far from the next exit. Crawled there, where they panicked seeing an RV pull-in. Since I had creep power, I was able to maneuver it out of the way while waiting for a tow truck they'd called for me to haul it to my local in-town Ford dealer. This was all transpiring at about 11am. I had to be on a plane at 6pm that night for a work trip, with a stop into the office before, as well as winterize the unit before leaving as it was still very much winter in the northeast. Tow truck finally shows up, gets us to my local dealer about 2pm, they take my wife home to come back with our truck, and the 4 gallons of pink stuff, to unpack and so I can winterize in the dealer lot. I get the arrangements made and start dumping water, and the tech comes out right away to see what he's in for. I was thinking transmission, since it happened right at a shift. Plugs in the scanner. No accelerator pedal signal. This is a DBW throttle. The pedal is a rheostat that has fried itself at only 48k miles. Turns out I could have limped it home via using the cruise control buttons on the steering wheel as a hand throttle. Got the RV winterized, food and clothes unpacked, stopped at home and showered and packed a different bag for the business trip, was able to stop at the office and made my plane. The next time was October of last year. Second day out, driving down the eastern shore of MD and VA. Headed to the Chesapeake Bay Bridge/Tunnel and points further south. Slowing down for a red light on US 13, feel a skip. Taking off on green, I'm now clearly driving a V9. After a few minutes, a flashing CEL starts. We try to count flashes as sometimes they will morse code you the problem, and internet via phone a diagnosis. No help. Put-put along, as this happened about 50 miles north of the bridge and Virginia Beach. There is an Advance Auto Parts no more than a couple of miles off the end of the bridge, and they'll read codes. I'm suspecting coil and this store even has a few OEM Motorcrafts in stock. Sure enough, the OBDII reader says #8. Have some Advance bucks on my account so even get it at a discount. This is my first time diving into the hell of Mod motor coils and plugs. The cylinder code is via firing order, and #8 is center of the left bank. Yay. The airbox and snorkel had to come out all the way to the throttle body, and the electrical connections to the coils back of #8 removed as well. This was also the first time my wife had ever seen the doghouse off, where upon I was able to point out the proximity of the right bank exhaust manifold and downpipe as to why she complains how hot the passenger footwell gets. Anyway, the R&R working from both the front and back of the motor in the Advance parking lot, including lunch and a bathroom break, took about 45 minutes. Starting up, no more skip! I suspect this coil had been on its way out for sometime, as the first few years I owned this RV from new a couple of times a year it would misfire on deceleration. That went away, but mileage had deteriorated about 0.5-1 mpg. After the coil replacement, there was a bit more seat-of-pants power, and the fuel mileage now is better than ever, getting 9 mpg tanks with the cruise on 70.
Lumpty 10/29/20 06:25pm General RVing Issues
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