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RE: Portable or Hardwired EMS?
I'm not really sure I understand this "One more thing to remember to do". My portable EMS is always plugged into my electric cord, and the EMS is what is plugged into the pedestal. Last time I checked you had to plug into the pedestal to get power to the RV.
In order to use a hardwired EMS, I'd have to do some fancy rigging, plus it would not be easily accessible if I needed to have it repaired/replaced.
OTOH my old SurgeGuard bit the dust after suffering water intrusion. The PI I have now looks to be much more watertight than the SurgeGuard.
I have never heard of anyone having their EMS stolen, not even any rumors or hearsay.
X2 on all counts. Except water intrusion. I keep my PI PT30X portable tucked away inside the (smallish) electrical bay, out of the weather. Only the 30A extension shore cord gets wet. Or tripped on. Or whatever-ed.
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MDKMDK
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10/22/19 07:39pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Portable or Hardwired EMS?
My 2004 hardwired unit is in the second rig. In each case it's installed without cutting/splicing any existing wiring so trivia to remove and restore original wiring. It also has a remote display inside the rig which is a HUGE advantage over a portable. Voltage, amps, error codes are all easy to see. A data wire has to be routed to the remote.
Ya gotta plug it in, don't you? You can easily see the portable unit's display as well, when you're outside the coach doing that. If it reacts to something and cuts power, you're not likely going to be able to either trouble shoot or resolve it from the comfort of the inside of your coach, you're most likely going to have to exit the vehicle at some point to resolve the problem, so it's really not a huge advantage. Very few shore power issues occur inside your coach.
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MDKMDK
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10/22/19 02:42pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Portable or Hardwired EMS?
Depending on where your 30A/50A shore power cord is stored, you can plug a portable EMS like the PT-30X into your shore cable, keep the portable inside the (lockable?) electrical bay compartment, and buy a second 30A shore power extension cord, and use that between the electrical bay/EMS and the c/g power post. Cheaper to lose an extension cord than the EMS. It's how I do it.
If your portable ever fails for any reason, and you're under warranty, it's easier to send it back, than uninstalling the hard wired versions or trying to replace parts in it.
Brilliant!
Aw shucks, tweren't nuthin. :W
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MDKMDK
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10/22/19 02:14pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: diesel class c
My 3.0L MB diesel in our Navion is a lot quieter in the cab than the V10 in the Sunstar, it replaced. Lots of great standard features on our Navion and the 2020 models have been improved in that department even more. As sadie says better fuel economy than gassers, and I also agree with "hard to justify ever going back to a gas powered model". Not impossible, just improbable.
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MDKMDK
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10/22/19 02:12pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Portable or Hardwired EMS?
To me it'd be a no-brainer to have a hard wired unit if we were full timers but we're not.
Wondering if it'd make more sense to get an exterior unit considering:
- We're weekenders
- I can see where we might change out rigs sometime within the next 5yrs
Also, I can see benefit in being able to test different pedestals w/out having to move the rig should a fault be found at an initially assigned spot.
Understand a big downside is potential theft of exterior EMS units, just wondering if other than that there's much of a downside to having one.
Depending on where your 30A/50A shore power cord is stored, you can plug a portable EMS like the PT-30X into your shore cable, keep the portable inside the (lockable?) electrical bay compartment, and buy a second 30A shore power extension cord, and use that between the electrical bay/EMS and the c/g power post. Cheaper to lose an extension cord than the EMS. It's how I do it.
If your portable ever fails for any reason, and you're under warranty, it's easier to send it back, than unistalling the hard wired versions or trying to replace parts in it.
Not sure about "more" protection from hard wired units. Dubious?
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MDKMDK
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10/22/19 02:01pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Really scary incident tonight - almost lost my tow!
Replace the hitch pin with a correct size grade 8 bolt and don't worry about it. No rattles either. Also anyone who wants to steal your towbar better have tools!.....With Nylon Locking Nut!
Great suggestion. Definitely.
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MDKMDK
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10/21/19 08:10am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Really scary incident tonight - almost lost my tow!
Out of curiosity what brand or where did you get the hitch pin? The Blue Ox stuff did it's thing, I would stick with it but that's just me.
I'd say your new pin was the root cause.
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MDKMDK
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10/20/19 07:29pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: HWH Control Panel Replacement
Is there a "calibration" section in the owner's/operator's manual? Maybe it needs to run through some sort of "set up" procedure, that might be mentioned in the manual or online somewhere?. Maybe? Doug above posted the user manual and I”m going to let my 17year old read through it. He’s way more tech-able than me. (Husband is disabled and never was really into fix it stuff). Thanks for the idea.
Since it's an older make/model, I was thinking maybe there's some "volatile memory" in the control panel that gets flushed if it stays dormant for a long time, of if power is otherwise removed for an extended period. Just a guess.
There is nothing that uses volatile memory. There is NO calibration also. The only calibration is to set the level sensor, but that part will have no affect on operation of the rest of the system. There is no set up procedure also. Doug
You were wrong with your first contribution, according to the OP.
Maybe you'll go two for two?
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MDKMDK
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10/20/19 06:07pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: RV snowbirding or MX or Carribean
Great question.
Some neighbors tried the RV thing and just couldn't get the hang of it, and eventually bought a park model in southwest Florida, instead. Now they fly down and keep transportation down there. They love it.
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MDKMDK
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10/20/19 06:00pm |
Snowbirds
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RE: HWH Control Panel Replacement
Is there a "calibration" section in the owner's/operator's manual? Maybe it needs to run through some sort of "set up" procedure, that might be mentioned in the manual or online somewhere?. Maybe? Doug above posted the user manual and I”m going to let my 17year old read through it. He’s way more tech-able than me. (Husband is disabled and never was really into fix it stuff). Thanks for the idea.
Since it's an older make/model, I was thinking maybe there's some "volatile memory" in the control panel that gets flushed if it stays dormant for a long time, of if power is otherwise removed for an extended period. Just a guess.
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MDKMDK
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10/20/19 05:09pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: HWH Control Panel Replacement
Is there a "calibration" section in the owner's/operator's manual? Maybe it needs to run through some sort of "set up" procedure, that might be mentioned in the manual or online somewhere?
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MDKMDK
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10/20/19 04:22pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Winter RV'ing in Northern NWT/Yukon
Try contacting tourism NWT and Yukon and see if they can help you.
They have websites and probably toll free numbers to speak with people who could advise you about the feasibility of such a project. If there are year round sources of fuel, or year round camping, they should be able to tell you more about them.
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MDKMDK
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10/19/19 04:21pm |
RVing in Canada and Alaska
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RE: SS Agile Solar question
No idea about the Roadtrek SS Agile's A/C unit, but most are about the same as running a window unit in the bedroom of your house.
The furnace can be a little quieter, but many have noisy fans.
Light sleepers, beware.:B
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MDKMDK
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10/17/19 12:06pm |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: Battery (really solar panel) Disconnect Question
Good luck with it. Either way.:C
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MDKMDK
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10/16/19 07:43pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Battery (really solar panel) Disconnect Question
The only caveats in the ZS-30A controller manual concern not shorting the connections during installation. They do suggest covering the panels to turn them off during the install. Since it was factory installed, I assume they didn't short anything and had the panels somehow disabled (probably didn't plug them into the roof top combiner), as it all seems to work.
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- Given sufficient light solar panels always generate energy even when they are disconnected.
- Accidental ‘shorting’ of the terminals or wiring can result in sparks causing personal injury or a fire hazard. We recommend that you cover up the panel(s) with some sort of soft cloth so you can block all incoming light during the installation. This will ensure that no damage is caused to the Solar Panel or Battery if the wires are accidentally short circuited.
- Always install a battery fuse on each circuit including the solar controller
- Do not reverse connect the wires to the solar panel or battery
"
They also suggest adding a 40A fuse on the + wire runs, both in and out from the controller. Since I can't see them, I have to assume they were added at the factory. God help me if they ever pop.
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MDKMDK
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10/16/19 11:34am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Battery (really solar panel) Disconnect Question
I just replaced my dying factory FLA batteries with 2 X 100Ah LiFePO4 units. To do this, I had to disconnect the batteries while the controller was up and running and it was a sunny day. I actually considered pulling the 3 rooftop panel connectors out of the 3 way combiner, but after consulting Winnebago Tech Support, they said no need.
My system is a factory installed Zamp Solar setup, 3 X 100W panels and the ZS-30A PWM controller. When all was reconnected, everything is up and running with no apparent ill effects. So, I'm going to *assume* this charge controller doesn't care if you disconnect the batteries, either at the battery terminals manually, or with an added disconnect switch. Which I didn't add. Never ocurred to me to add one.
Just in case you've got the same, or similar, setup.
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MDKMDK
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10/16/19 09:19am |
Tech Issues
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RE: RV trip 14 nights itinerary help
OK, I might be crazy but I LOVED Whittier! I have a "thing" for small, seaside towns with harbors, especially working harbors. Can't explain it.
Me neither. It just works for me.
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MDKMDK
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10/15/19 08:58pm |
RVing in Canada and Alaska
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RE: MaxxFan (Smoke with Remote Control) Best For Ventilation?
Thanks, J, did you not need a remote since you have a small van?
Anybody have any other thoughts on the pros and cons of MaxxFans with or without Remote Control?
I'm assuming the Airxcel employee was being honest, but I'd like to get some user feedback on if the Remote Control MaxxFans draw power or not when they're off, and not in use.
I've never given it much thought, but if they do draw anything, it would be to maintain readiness to transmit/receive from the remote. I typically press any button on my remote to "wake" up the remote, then point it in the general direction of the fan to make adjustments. Mine is exhaust only (Winnebago cheapskates) and does a decent job drawing air out/in, with a window cracked. Temp/fan speed adjustment for auto operation is nice. It has what's supposed to be a rain proof powered raise/lower cover that operates based on temps but not actual rain. So far, no rain intrusion during some pretty heavy downpours. It must be a lesser model than the ones you're looking at.
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MDKMDK
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10/15/19 06:32am |
Tech Issues
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RE: RV trip 14 nights itinerary help
A final couple of thoughts:
- Hatcher Pass goes from the "Palmer Side" to the "Willow side": Independence Mine State Park (or State Historical Site or something like that) is road accessible from the Palmer Side ONLY if traveling in an RV. The road runs Palmer - Willow but from the Independence Mine area to Willow, it is at best a car road and works better in a 4WD SUV or pickup. If one is visiting Independence Mine with only an RV as a vehicle, there will be some backtracking to go to Wasilla / Palmer, up to Independence Mine, then back to Wasilla / Palmer before returning to Willow
- Full disclosure: I've never been on the ATV tours around Knik. I fly over it all the time and in the summer regularly land the ol PA-12 on riverbars on the Knik River. That being said, an ATV tour of the Knik (based on reports from friends, seeing the trails from the air, and seeing the groups on the trails) seems to be about the best mix of accessibility, location, and activities available. Scenic country, even when raining.
- If eating in the Noisy Goose: a) right now road work has the roads torn up. If not finished by next year, be very alert for the "Noisy Goose Access here" signs. They're not at the intuitive spots; b) when in the Noisy Goose (unless it changes in 2019 / 2020, I haven't been there since 2018), take the time to look at the various photos scattered about...just a touch of the "Alaska that was" outside of the usual tourist channels.
We drove right by it on our way back in 2016, not knowing it was a decent eatery with nostalgia. Dang!:S
We were too busy looking at the fair grounds on the other side of the road.
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MDKMDK
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10/14/19 12:25pm |
RVing in Canada and Alaska
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RE: Quiet generators
Hnnnnnn, I wonder how many folks would know he difference if you put a Honda decal on a Predator. ;)
Not many, I'd guess. I don't use a portable, but I've heard (or not) Predator generators demonstrated, and they're very quiet, in my opinion.
"Honda-esque".
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MDKMDK
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10/14/19 06:34am |
Tech Issues
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