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Date Posted |
Forum
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RE: Class C Warranty
Sounds like wheel speed sensors. We all have 'em, and they are a pita when they fail.
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MDKMDK
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10/27/21 08:13am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Stability control
I would start with an alignment. Replacing or adding parts before having the alignment checked could be a waste of money. If it needs new ball joints, they find that out during the alignment.
-Michael
Agreed on not throwing money at it, and adding all the usual suspects that others suggest, before getting the alignment check. It's easy to spend a fortune on these vehicles, and get negligible results, and ride is a very subjective topic, after all.
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MDKMDK
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10/26/21 11:26am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Class C Warranty
I have a Class C that is new and still under warranty. There are a couple issues with the chassis (Ford E-450) that need to be addressed but I am guessing that the RV dealer doesn't do that and that it needs to go to a Ford dealer. Am I correct in assuming that? It doesn't appear that there are too many who will take in motor homes.
What does everyone else do with warranty work on motor home chassis?
Thanks gang.
BTW I am in north central Florida and I called Ford of Ocala. They told me they are booked up on motor homes and are not taking any appointments.
Frustrating...
Start with your RV dealer, and explain the hands off issue at the local Ford dealer.
Ask them (your RV dealer) where they send their products for chassis service. When chassis recalls are issued for unsold stock, for example, they have to use someone to do them.
Most RV dealers will have some sort of symbiotic relationship with the chassis manufacturers of the motorhomes they sell.
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MDKMDK
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10/26/21 09:29am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Protection from freezing
"As an after thought, Winnebago probably used the most cost effective (aka cheapest) heaters they could safely/legally install."
Had to smile,as probably very true!
OK back to my coffee.
Hmmmm ... who else offers RV tank heaters besides the company listed in my link above (Ultraheat) ... I sure haven't seen any others advertised or mentioned??
From my prior post, click, scroll down a bit, and they have embedded a couple of other links for/to tank heaters.
https://vancampinglife.com/when-should-i-turn-on-my-rv-tank-heaters/
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MDKMDK
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10/24/21 04:24pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Protection from freezing
Amazon has a 12v , 12”x18” tank pad @ 4.8 amps.
Would that be about 100 watts of heat ? ?
P = I * V or W = A * V
So, about 60W.
As an after thought, Winnebago probably used the most cost effective (aka cheapest) heaters they could safely/legally install.
Tnx for formula :)
'Built to last the warranty' :) I'm surprised the heaters con't to operate.
NP on the formula. It's US Formula One day today, so sort of appropriate?
I have only ever tested them once, and that was briefly in the driveway. They look like they would peel and fall off if used for longer than a few minutes.
I secured the wiring myself shortly after the dealer installed it in 2018. They didn't get the wiring and pads when the vehicle was delivered to them. Took about an extra week to get the parts. I had a look underneath when I got home after the work. They left the wiring dangling loosely underneath, so I added some inexpensive plastic wiring conduit and some cable ties to try to secure/protect them a little more. So far, so good.
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MDKMDK
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10/24/21 12:31pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Stability control
I have a just acquired 2007 winnebago Navion that has stability control issues. I’ve checked tire pressure air bag pressure all is good. Any suggestions on how to correcting this horrible feeling of being out of control?
Slow down a little? These things are essentially boxes mounted on a light chassis that usually loads them to within 1000 pounds or so of the GVWR. As a result, they are susceptible to road conditions, and cross winds, and 18 wheeler bow wash. There are some suspension mods you can try, as has been suggested, but honestly, don't expect it to handle like a sports car, because it isn't a sports car. Drive it, you'll get used to the handling limitations, it just takes practise. Mine felt odd when first driven, but after some driving I got the hang of it.
As an after thought, get the alignment checked at a Benz Sprinter capable dealer. There may be siginficant wear on the suspension on an older T1N based motorhome. Forgot yours is 2007 vintage.
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MDKMDK
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10/24/21 09:14am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Protection from freezing
Amazon has a 12v , 12”x18” tank pad @ 4.8 amps.
Would that be about 100 watts of heat ? ?
P = I * V or W = A * V
So, about 60W.
As an after thought, Winnebago probably used the most cost effective (aka cheapest) heaters they could safely/legally install.
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MDKMDK
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10/24/21 09:02am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Protection from freezing
MDKMDK,
Any idea of the watts they draw?
Don, I have no idea. They're factory installs, but they had to be added by the Canadian dealer, after they received the unit from the factory. For reasons unknown, they could not be "factory installed" @ Winnebago. Cross border rules/regulations? Next time I'm under the vehicle, I'll see if I can see a label to identify them. My gray/black tanks are 36 gallons each, fwiw.
I did find a blog that discusses them in some detail, and mentions between 4A and 11A of current as a typical range. They link a couple of examples of after market add ons. Though they don't say, I'm assuming that's DC amps.
https://vancampinglife.com/when-should-i-turn-on-my-rv-tank-heaters/
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MDKMDK
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10/23/21 07:02pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: smaller MH with 2+ separate comfy sleeping areas?
At 9, the cab over bed should be viable for a 3-4 yrs, then it depends on when he hits his growth spurt.
As far as a full blown separate 2nd bedroom, not likely on a small MH.
makes sense.. or are there the sofa/pull out beds in living area that can have a decent mattress? They can be so awkward and uncomfy for an adult!
I guess when I say smaller I mean under 26', ideally under 24', with slide outs.. we love the 30'TT but it's so big and heavy and now we have a boat, can't tow that at same time lol
Most have either a couch that converts to a bed, or a dinette, converts to a bed. Both are usually in the forward area, often in a slide.
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MDKMDK
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10/23/21 02:28pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Protection from freezing
My tank heaters run off 110v. Do all Navions run off 12v ?
Also carry a hair dryer to use in cold temps. Sometimes dump valves freeze .
Mine are DC only, with AC support/replenishment. Manual (Plumbing Section 7-14) states don't use them unless you're plugged in to shore/generator, or running the chassis engine while driving, or they'll deplete the batteries very quickly. I've got lithium, so I might get away with a bit longer standalone run time, but I'm not likely to test that theory any time soon.
If you've got tank heaters, they'll keep the dump valves operational, if the liquids behind them are warmed. Keeping the water heater "on" also helps prevent freezing of some of the adjacent lines/plumbing. I haven't got enough hair left to warrant carrying a blow dryer. :B
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MDKMDK
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10/23/21 11:48am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Protection from freezing
We just bought this unit so there’s going to be a learning curve. That’s what I thought but I wanted to get more input. We will be plugging in but sure if holding tank heater will work. Thank You
The tank heaters will work fine as a safeguard, but they need a little DC "electrical boost". One of the weaknesses of the average class C is the tanks are usually exposed underneath the coach. As such, cold temps may affect them negatively. No definitive answer there, it depends on a few other factors, too.
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MDKMDK
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10/23/21 09:51am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Protection from freezing
I have a 2006 Winnebago Avion, I was wanting to travel Williams Arizona in December. My question is if I keep the inside warm and the holding tanks heaters on would my plumbing freeze? What are your thoughts?
Assume you have a Navion, not an Avion?
Texas to Arizona in December? You should be fine, just run the furnace as required to keep the interior warm overnight, if the outside temperature dips below freezing.
As far as the tank heaters, mine are DC powered, so unless you have a huge battery bank, I would avoid using them, unless you also run your generator or are plugged in to shore power, overnight. They'll suck your batteries dry in a few hours if yours are like mine.
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MDKMDK
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10/22/21 09:42pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: how to not destroy an alternator when charging LI batteries.
Hi all,
https://youtu.be/jgoIocPgOug
The video offers solutions.This guy isn't all that bright,
When an altenator is installed on a automobile, it is driven by the crankshaft pulley which is much larger. Usually a 4 to one ratio. So even at idle, it would be turning over 2000 rpm
Victron sells several "alternator protection devices" and so, have a dog in the fight. If the alternator doesn't start smoking, you won't buy their stuff to protect yours.
They also supply very little specific information about the alternator's specs, even where it came from, had it been used before, and so on. Then they connect it to a lithum battery with the same "shrouded in mystery" BMS specs. Many people choose to believe it because they've had good luck with other Victron hardware, that's understandable, and everyone always raves about it, especially on the sailing/yachting forums. I've never used any of it, and I haven't had any major problems as a result of not spending my money on their stuff.
Honestly, does anyone know anyone that burned up their alternator charging a lithium battery bank? Or burned up their own? I don't, nor can I find any internet posts that support the notion. (cue the deluge of "I know someone..." replies)
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MDKMDK
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10/21/21 05:23pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: how to not destroy an alternator when charging LI batteries.
Are there reports of burnt up Alternators from RV'ers installing Lithium Batteries and the Chassis charging system is not designed for Lithium? Doug
Old thread, good question. I have googled this, and asked for anyone with a real world experience burning up their alternator with lithium batteries to describe the event, and to date the response is usually "crickets".
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MDKMDK
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10/20/21 10:30pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: how to not destroy an alternator when charging LI batteries.
In many cases there will be no issue with the alternator. I have had various LiFePO4 setups over the past 10 year, and never had an issue with overloading the alternator. The wiring, breakers and ACR between the alternator and batteries provides plenty of resistance to limit the current to the battery bank.
In specific cases with higher voltage alternators and very large gauge wiring, there could be an issue, but it is easy enough to try a direct connection and see how much current flows before adding a DC-DC charger.
Do it right and install a DC to DC charger between the vehicle charging system and the Lithium batteries, and your problems are solved. that is what they are designed for. Lithium connected directly to a alternator charging system will fry the alternator.
The video linked to in the first post is a very good one and while one way (usually on boats) of controlling the charge, the DC/DC works well without messing with hugely expensive alternators custom fitted to a vehicle. New vehicles have computer controlled alternators and none of this plays well with lithium in the house battery box.
Charles
I've put over 6,000 trouble free miles on a standard MB Bosch 220A smart (internal fan, internal regulator) alternator charging 2 X 100Ah Relion RB100-LT batteries, with no additional hardware to do anything in between the charging source and the lithium targets. In varied ambient temperatures and at varied engine RPMs, at varied SoC, including some idling.
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MDKMDK
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10/20/21 10:28pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Norcold refrigerator recall list
Got google?
https://norcold.com/recall-information/
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MDKMDK
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10/11/21 07:22pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: 2001 Shasta wiring
Hi all. Brand new to the Forum but need some help. I have a 2001 Shasta Travelmaster and I blew a rear tire and it ripped out a lot of the wiring. So far I have traced the broken wires and found a broken power wire for the slide, as well as the propane gauge on the propane tank. My question is, where does it go from the slide? Does it go to the switch, to the generator,???? Does anyone know where to find a wiring diagram or anything like that???
Sometimes finding forums with other same unit or similar owners, can reap rewards. Not always, but it might be a good start.
https://www.forestriverforums.com/forums/f220/
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MDKMDK
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10/11/21 06:20pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Towing 6,500 pounds with a class C
I have a family of 5. I want a Class C that can tow my boat which, fully loaded on the trailer, is about 6,500 pounds. We would go to lakes around VA and WV so mountains will be involved.
What I'd really like is one of the Super C motor homes built on the Chevy Kodiak chassis but they are rare and the newest ones are 2009. I see some Class C motor homes with 14,500 pound GVWR and a 22,000 GCWR leaving 7,500 pounds of tow capacity.
I'm looking for anyone who tows this much with one of these rigs. How does it handle? Are you up against (or over) the GVWR even without the trailer?
My suspicion is that loading a 14,500 GVWR Class C for a two week trip with a family of 5 is going to probably put it at or over GVWR anyway. I'm guessing that hooking 6,500 pounds on the hitch will be pushing the limits of the rig to the maximum.
By the way, I don't want a Class A. They just aren't set up for families with no overhead bunk. Also, it would drive me crazy not having a drivers' door when hitching, unhitching, launching, retrieving the boat, and getting fuel.
My crew cab dually with truck camper worked great for towing but with a family of 5 it was just too small. I wish they made TCs with bunk beds.
I think diesel/Super C is your only safe option. You'll get more GVWR for the 5 people load, and plenty of hitch GCWR for the boat. If you exceed either GVWR/GCWR with any combination, you're endangering yourself and others. Go big, or stay home with a big diesel class C.
Agree about the class A, I can't iamgine trying to maneuver one at a boat ramp/launch. It might be possible, but not a great option.
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MDKMDK
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10/10/21 08:35pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: 07 E450 Class C rear air bags better handling while towing
What is the "loaded for travel" weight of your unit? I see it has a GVWR of 14050 lbs. How close to that number are you when you travel? If you're within a hundred pounds of that max, or possiby over it, your problem is the chassis is overloaded and there's not much you can do about it. It's subject to the laws of physics. You can make the suspension more firm or robust, but that just moves the stress of the weight to the tires and frame. Find a way to lighten it up, and see if that helps. Otherwise, get used to it.
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MDKMDK
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10/07/21 05:25pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: An Australian Class C liked by Lazydays
Yes, looks like a Class A from the few original post pictures.
BTW, absolutely enjoyed our driving trip around eastern Australia in 2019. Arrive Cairns. Back from Adelaide. 7,500+ KM. Hello airbnb's!
GREAT country.
Yes, we rented a "patriotic" car-- Subaru OUTBACK!
RV industry is booming in Australia Covid is a great motivaror, eventually be able to travel around the while country
Same here. Used selling for over MSRP in some cases due to demand.
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MDKMDK
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10/07/21 03:17pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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