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 > Your search for posts made by 'Mickeyfan0805' found 139 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: sway

FYI - this thread is likely to go down the 'overweight' path very quickly. When you go to the scales, you may be surprised at what you find. It is highly likely that you are near or over your GCVWR on the 2.7, and you may or may not be exceeding payload depending on your configuration and set-up. That said, for the short term issue you are trying to cover, here's a few things to consider... First - are you sure you are dialed in with your WD hitch? The fact that you are 'sitting level' doesn't necessarily mean anything. You need to do the before and after measurements of the wheel wells to make sure it is transferring enough weight off the rear axle. Again - if you scale properly you will get some insight here as well. Second - are your WD bars also sway control? They aren't necessarily one in the same. Third - how is your tongue weight? Again, scales will be necessary here, but you want to make sure it is sufficient. The general range is 10-15% of total trailer weight - I find ours is best around 12%. If you are way out of line on this number, it can cause problems. Fourth - How are you loaded? You said that you only had clothes for 2 in the trailer. Is that all you had, or did you have a bunch of stuff in the truck bed? You are likely pushing your GVWR, which means that a heavy load of gear in the bed could be a part of the problem as well. All in all, I would start with these things. Make sure you have your setup dialed in before you try to branch out into band-aids. Airbags are very helpful in some situations, while people seem to debate whether or not they actually benefit with sway (I've never used them, so I have no opinion). In either case, that's a lot of money to invest on a truck you'll be dumping soon - so I'd work hard on making sure everything else is covered first! Start at the scales - it will tell you a lot.
Mickeyfan0805 07/02/20 02:49pm Travel Trailers
RE: Black Water Accident

I hope that you are not connecting the water at the campsite to your black tank rinser... Why?
Mickeyfan0805 07/01/20 02:46pm Travel Trailers
RE: Fresh water hose storage

Without a visual it is hard to discern exactly what you have done here. Are you suggesting that you have removed your spare tire and placed your hose there instead? Or, are the two somehow both mounted on the same vertical bracket?
Mickeyfan0805 07/01/20 08:28am Tech Issues
RE: Problem with Cat scale weights

I'm with others - go re-weigh and be extra careful on your axle placement. Something seems awry here. You don't want to start fixing a problem until you actually confirm that there is one. This, for me, falls into the 'measure twice, cut once' category.
Mickeyfan0805 06/30/20 03:14pm Towing
RE: Black Water Accident

If I am reading your story correctly, I think you answered your own question. You state that you opened and closed your valves to lubricate them prior to your trip. In doing so, any remaining fluids/chunks from your last dump, plus the antifreeze that you had put in your tank to winterize, would have poured down the tube and filled up the space between your valve and your outlet cover. When you closed the valve you sealed that space, trapping the fluid between the valve and the cover. When you removed the cover, that pressure and fluid would have been released the - hence the unpleasant shower. We've all been there in one way or another! Happy trails!
Mickeyfan0805 06/30/20 03:08pm Travel Trailers
RE: Outdoor Kitchens

Our experience is like cgjt's. We have a full kitchen with larger dorm fridge, microwave, sink and swing-out dual cook top. It also came with the little grill that mounts to the side of the camper, but I don't use it. We have a separate Coleman for grilling. We do almost all cooking outside and love this option. Never a single problem with leaks.
Mickeyfan0805 06/30/20 09:11am Travel Trailers
RE: 15+ F150 - Breakaway Cable anchor?

Thanks for those who have offered suggestions. I have been under the truck and haven't seen any good independent locations (the bumper is integrated to the hitch and would likely be part of any failure) - but I'll look for a hidden loop as suggested above. For those who don't isolate the cable to a different mounting point - more power to you. I simply prefer the redundancy created by a separate mount.
Mickeyfan0805 06/30/20 09:05am Tow Vehicles
RE: 15+ F150 - Breakaway Cable anchor?

The engineers put tow hook rings on the hitch and not on the vehicle frame for a reason. Convenience and safety. Don’t try to think outside the box. Use a clasp/hook device and attach to the safety chain anchor rings. This question is about the breakaway cable, not the safety chains. Of course safety chains go on the hitch rings! The breakaway cable, on the other hand, is meant to engage the trailer brakes if the trailer separates from the truck. In the case of a hitch failure, the cable would not pull and the trailer brakes would not engage. It's an unlikely scenario, but it always seemed smarter to connect the cable to the truck independently from the hitch itself. On my previous TV there was an easy way to wrap a steel cable around the frame - no such simple solution exists in the F150, so I was just wondering if other f150 owners have sought similar solutions.
Mickeyfan0805 06/29/20 12:19pm Tow Vehicles
15+ F150 - Breakaway Cable anchor?

For those with a current model F150, any recommendations on where/how to anchor the breakaway cable? I've never liked anchoring it to the hitch, as it would do no good in the case of a hitch failure, but the manner in which the hitch is integrated into the bumper in my 2019 F150 is making it hard to find a distinct location to anchor the cable.
Mickeyfan0805 06/29/20 10:00am Tow Vehicles
RE: Should I connect my sewer line when camping?

It's really a personal choice, whatever works best for you. If we are camping more than one overnight, we'd hook up sewer at the same time as water and electric. If we were just doing a quick overnight and didn't expect to fill the tanks, then we would not hook up sewer. I have a similar approach. We are a family of 5 that does all showering, dish cleaning, bathroom usage, etc. in the camper. So, we really can't get more than a few nights without needing to dump. For a weekend trip, I might do it upon arrival if I have time and nice weather, or I might wait until departure if circumstances demand. Longer stays, I always set up at the outset so that I can dump as needed.
Mickeyfan0805 06/29/20 09:55am Beginning RVing
RE: Bad Time To Sell RV?

Yep - discretionary income will drop dramatically until there is more economic certainty, and the simple flow of foot traffic into dealers is most certainly incredibly low. Some states and municipalities won't even allow dealerships to be open for sales at this time. A seller may get lucky in a private sale, but I think we are talking about a dramatically different market than what we had just 2-3 weeks ago!
Mickeyfan0805 03/20/20 11:11am General RVing Issues
RE: Private Seller - Financing

Yep - Bank or CU. They will work you through the process easily and properly. I bought a truck in NY when living in MA and financed through my local bank with ease.
Mickeyfan0805 03/10/20 06:42pm Beginning RVing
RE: Enough truck?

It will be just my wife and I in the truck for this trip. If I add up our weight (200# each) + 200# topper + 745# hitch weight I'm at 1345# which is within the 1568# max payload. Is this too close? If I use the 15% of the 6000 TT GVWR as the hitch weight I get 900# plus the weight of us and the topper (600#) which is 1400# just barely below the 1568# payload. Too close? The truck rear GAWR is 3800#. For clarity, you want to double-check your math here. The two of you, plus the topper is 600 pounds, and your 15% calculation is 900 (both of which are accurate above). However, this puts you at 1,500, not the 1,400 you have listed above. You are also missing the weight of the WD hitch (likely 75-100 pounds), which would put you closer to 1,575 to 1,600 for your final number (which is just over your payload sticker). That said, as long as you are confident that there aren't other mods or gear in the truck eating away at that payload (heavy bed mats, bed steps, tools, etc...), I would suggest that you will likely be fine. 15% is the very high end of the tongue weight ratio, and you may well not load it to the entire 6,000 pounds for just two of you. I would suggest that a trip past a CAT scale could confirm things for you, but you'd likely be in a manageable state.
Mickeyfan0805 03/10/20 08:45am Travel Trailers
RE: Am I being greedy?

As others are pointing out, this is incredibly odd. OP - I'm confused by your language. You 'traded' your rig, or you 'agreed to trade' your rig? In other words, what is the current status of this transaction? I would never agree to any compensation without it being written specifically into the purchase agreement. Many RV dealers quote trades without ever looking at it. This is simply another gimmick to try to get money. Unless you are contractually obligated, refuse.
Mickeyfan0805 03/09/20 02:40pm General RVing Issues
RE: SHANK question

This likely has a lot to do with tongue weight. For a lighter tongue, likely not an issue - try it and see how it goes. For a heavier tongue, you are increasing the torsion on the hitch which would lessen the actual weight the tongue could safely carry. I'm not an engineer, so I would not be able to try to quantify the difference, but that would be my consideration.
Mickeyfan0805 03/06/20 07:19pm Travel Trailers
RE: self driving sooner than we think!

You will know the turning point has been reached when they start altering road construction and signage to accommodate autonomous vehicles. When they start embedding things in the roadway, or special stripes on the roadway, or special visual or RF beacons on the roadside, that serve no purpose but to help AI vehicles navigate the roads, then you will know that the turning point has come. Today, everything you see on and around roadways is to enable human drivers. Soon, there will be things there to enable AI drivers. I think this is a big factor that remains unknown in all of this. Many adaptive/assist systems currently exist, but they are far from bulletproof, and many rely on systems that can become readily problematic in real world conditions. Five minutes on an icy, salt covered, road and my F150 spits out a warning that the pre-collision system can't operate. The sensors become covered in sludge and can't see anything. I'm sure there can and will be solutions to all of this, but I think some of it is likely to boil down to infrastructure that is not yet in place. We will continue to move in that direction, but there are still some major hurdles to overcome.
Mickeyfan0805 03/05/20 08:46am Tech Issues
RE: Upgrading head and bars only on EQ hitch?

They definitely sell individual parts, both through distributors and directly on their website. You could cobble together an entire system through individual pieces. FWIW - Much to my surprise, they were actually very affirming of the idea. So long as the shank is sufficiently rated (which it is), there is no problem replacing just the head and the bars. Through Etrailer, the upgrade of the two parts runs $345, compared to nearly $745 for a full system. Oddly, you can cobble all of the major elements together (shank, brackets, ball, head, bars and pry lever) for $635. What's left after that is hardware, which hardly makes up for the extra $110 for the 'complete' system. It all seems a bit backwards to me!
Mickeyfan0805 03/03/20 03:47pm Towing
RE: Upgrading head and bars only on EQ hitch?

I would call the manufacturer and ask them. If your EQ is an actual Equal-i-zer the manufacturer is very responsive to questions. Link I will try, thanks. I highly suspect that I will get the, 'You should buy everything new' response, but we will see!
Mickeyfan0805 03/03/20 08:53am Towing
RE: Upgrading head and bars only on EQ hitch?

It will "work" but you choose the size of the bars by tongue weight, not the tow vehicle. I understand, but we are right 'on the line.' We bought the hitch 10 years ago for a hybrid trailer with a much lighter tongue. When we upgraded trailers, 7.5 years ago, our tongue went to right around the 1,000 pound mark, but with an HD Suburban as a tow vehicle, the 1k bars gave me all the tension I ever needed to get it where I wanted it. Moving to an F150, we will be loading right at the truck's payload, and I might want/need a bit more tension to dial in the system. I won't upgrade until I hook it up and test things out (hopefully in the next month or so, if the weather holds), but I'm considering options if I find they are needed.
Mickeyfan0805 03/03/20 08:52am Towing
Upgrading head and bars only on EQ hitch?

I’m considering upgrading from our current 10k EQ hitch to the 12k version. Nothing is wrong with our current set-up, but a change in TV has me considering the upgrade. I can upgrade the head and bars for half the cost of the entire system, and my other elements are all in solid shape. Anyone know if this would work?
Mickeyfan0805 03/02/20 08:58pm Towing
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