 |
|
|
| |
Subject |
Author |
Date Posted |
Forum
|
 |
RE: How many folks want an EV
The all use CVTs which only last about 100k miles, then $5k to replace.
Where did you get that information? My Volt has NO transmission. Direct drive from the Voltec motor by battery until battery is depleted and then driven by generator powered by IC engine.
No need for a transmission when using electric motors to power the wheels.
|
Microlite Mike
|
09/16/22 09:29am |
Tow Vehicles
|
|
RE: How many folks want an EV
I think eventually it won't be a choice. If we want something to drive it will be an EV. When it comes to towing we may have to downsize our trailers in order to be able to tow them or take really good care of our current tow vehicles so they last the rest of our lifetime.
More and more States are adopting the "California Model" which is outlawing the sale of fossil fueled cars (and most likely pickups) in the next 10-15 years.
Tent/Popup trailers will certainly become more prevalent and 14'high, 40' long 5th wheel trailers will most likely disappear or be permanently parked.
The reality is that even the commercial truck operators, from local delivery to over the road freight transport, are looking at electric trucks (some even driverless). Rail transport will eventually become like that in Europe and other countries with overhead power wires or locomotives with battery banks to move them in areas with no overhead power.
The change is happening regardless of our thoughts or desires.
FWIW, I have had a PHEV (Plug-in Hybrid EV) for 5 years now and it's been great. 90+ percent of my driving is on battery and my gasoline expense down an average of $400/month before the recent rise in gasoline cost. Saving even more now.
|
Microlite Mike
|
09/15/22 01:14pm |
Tow Vehicles
|
 |
RE: CARB smog testing motorhomes Every 4months by 2024
Nobody is denying you your right to recreate in a big RV. They are simoly trying to stop you from poluting the earth while you do it.
4 times a year is more than a bit much! I’m fact I would say that RVs should be at the bottom of the list for vehicles to inspect!
How about the deleted and tuned trucks running around. One of those pollutes 100 times more than a single clean RV.
The part in bold would make perfect sense. That alone disqualify the practice under "California bureaucratic logic".
My guess is that the modified pickup trucks are driving a lot more miles, and spewing a lot more pollution annually, than a Motorhome driven on the highway.
According to RVIA
According to the RVIA, the average RV owner uses their RV about 4 weeks out of each year. However, many report that they use their RV even less than that each year.
Chances are many, if not most, of those "deleted/tuned" pickups are "daily drivers" (after all, if you don't drive it how can you show it off?).
Will be interesting to see how much it will cost MH owners for the tests and what the state's "take" is.
|
Microlite Mike
|
09/15/22 11:38am |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Using pourable epoxy on floor soft spots
Back in my boating days I used some "wood hardeners" to firm up areas of dry rot that would have otherwise required some extensive demolition and repairs.
Some are two-part styrene based and others are just single-part products.
I recently used this to firm up the wood underlayment that had softened when my old dishwasher leaked:
https://cdn-tp3.mozu.com/24645-37138/cms/37138/files/8e34da43-a611-4cf7-a818-e9aabdaadf4f?quality=60&_mzcb=_1649148331752 width=640
https://www.acehardware.com/departments/paint-and-supplies/patch-and-repair/wood-filler/18139?x429=true&gclid=7cfa4513a2ff1de8d1b52630fcf6881a&gclsrc=3p.ds&msclkid=7cfa4513a2ff1de8d1b52630fcf6881a&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=PLAs_FF4-Paint-Sundries_Paint-and-Supplies_Other_All_Other&utm_term=4581871119251771&utm_content=Paint-and-Supplies_Patch-and-Repair_All_All&gclid=7cfa4513a2ff1de8d1b52630fcf6881a&gclsrc=3p.ds
One trick I learned with my boat repairs was to use an Ice Pick to create holes in the soft wood that allowed deeper penetration. The secret to repairing soft areas with a "hardener" is to get as much as possible deep into the wood. Most epoxy products are more viscous than the Minwax hardener and usually only penetrate the immediate surface area.
The Minwax product dries nice and hard which makes a good surface for gluing on new floor covering (or replacing old if it was just peeled back).
|
Microlite Mike
|
09/15/22 11:22am |
Travel Trailers
|
|
RE: RV AC condenser w/integral oil cooler
By any chance, do you know if that was the original radiator? If so, I'd probably be tempted to change it out as well. I always beat myself up making these type of decisions when repairing things. It would just be my luck to get everything back together and a month later the radiator would start leaking!
Years ago I adopted an oft overlooked maintenance recommendation for my cooling system. Every 50K or 5 years I drain and replace all coolant. If I need more coolant due to normal seepage or leaks I only use pre-mix or concentrate coolant with distilled water.
Biggest issues I've seen in my lifetime with cooling systems is either corrosion allowed by old coolant (with depleted anti-corrosion additives) or blockage caused by use of "tap water" loaded with hardness minerals.
I also change fluids in transmission, transfer case, and differential at same intervals.
|
Microlite Mike
|
09/11/22 04:25pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Charging trailer deep cycle batteries
The Parallax 7355 converter is an Old School, single output voltage converter which will do an OK job of powering the RV's 12v system but is lacking for battery charging.
It will provide a continuous voltage of 13.6 volts regardless of battery state of charge. This means too slow for charging a discharged battery and too high a voltage for maintenance or float charge. On the latter this means battery will need more frequent "watering" to keep from going dry.
I would consider replacing the converter with either a deck mount or replacement section for the Parallax power center (if so equipped) from Progressive Dynamics. It will provide higher (14,4 volt) charging voltage for an "empty" battery, 13.8 volts for the absorption phase (to get a FULL charge) and then switch to 13.25 Volts for a maintenance/float charge that doesn't cause battery to use a lot of water.
The higher voltage will charge the battery faster and reduce the needed generator run time. On run time, a lead acid battery really needs more than a couple of hours at a time to fully charge. Generally a 100 Ah battery, discharged to 50%, will need 3-4 hours to reach 90% state of charge and another 3-4 hours of absorption charge to reach 100% SOC. Of course this depends on battery temp too as a cold battery will use the initial charging current just to warm the electrolyte.
|
Microlite Mike
|
08/28/22 03:14pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: How to rotate dually pickup truck tires
The manual for my 2016 Ram 3500 dually shows tire rotation only side to side. Specifically, switch the driver front and the passenger front tires, switch the outer rear tires driver to passenger, and switch the inner rear tires driver to passenger. The picture in the manual showing how to rotate shows no rotation back to front.
The manual really doesn’t explain why not to rotate back to front. It does say the rear tires must be matched for wear. Possibly the concern is that if tires are moved back to front that wear won’t match.
The manual does explain why it says to keep the inner rear wheels inner and outer rear wheels outer. It is for the Tire Pressure Information System. To quote, "The Tire Pressure Information System uses unique sensors in the inner rear wheels to help identify them from the outer rear wheels, because of this, the inner and outer wheel locations cannot be switched".
With my last tires it turned out that I had an alignment problem (now fixed) that I wasn’t aware of until I noticed that the tires were wearing unevenly. Since I was rotating the front tires only side to side both front tires wore unevenly on the outer edges. By the time I noticed this the tires were unsafe and I had to replace the tires probably 6,000 or 8,000 miles early.
I had to have the tires replaced during a trip. I ended up at a tire shop in a rural area that seemed to have plenty of experience with duallys. He told me to ignore the manual. He said that they rotate back to front all the time. He says they take the best looking tires from the back and put them on the front.
If I had rotated like that it would have stalled the uneven wear that killed my last tires.
I am about to get the new tires rotated for the first time. I have been telling the mechanic to follow the manual. I am now totally unclear what to do. It would seem that only rotating side to side in the same positions really isn’t going to help much because every other rotation the tires end up back in the same location.
It could be what the manual says that if you don’t keep the inner tires inner and outer tires outer it will confuse the Tire Pressure Information System. But really how important is that? It is nice to have the tire pressures in the instrument cluster because I look at the pressures frequently as I drive, much more often than I would find myself checking tire pressure manually. But I don’t care much about location. If a tire is low (something that actually has never happened yet) I can find out which one by checking the tires manually.
Any opinions about the best answer to this question? Only switch side to side as the manual says, or rotate front to back at the tire place service manager said?
Note: I already posted this to the truck camper forum. But I am dropping the truck in for service tomorrow and am still unclear what to do. Please excuse my posting twice. I know you are not supposed to that that but I am still unclear what to do.
Tires in dual service MUST be equal not only in wear, but in diameter (ideally in circumference as well). Slight differences make for some nasty wear and sometimes premature failure.
Fronts are subjected to all kinds of wear forces so no go to rear in duals.
|
Microlite Mike
|
08/06/22 10:03pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Windows 11 ..headaches..
But I want to use the computers internal built in speakers as well as an amplifier connected to the audio line out jack.
I would guess that all computers work the same way. At least on my desktop, 2 laptops, and tablet. The audio is either in OR out.
The switchover is mechanical, not electrical. The act of plugging in changes the audio output from in to out.
On one of my laptops, when pushing in a headphone plug, there is a place where BOTH will operate at the same time. The audio output socket has mechanical contacts that are "make before break". In other words, the audio outputs are BOTH made (make) before one (inside) is break (switched over).
Using an external speaker or headphones, SLOWLY push in the plug and see if there is a point where both will be on at the same time.
It works for me.
Good luck.
Tim
I had an old dinosaur desktops and even an old laptop that had two audio outputs. One for headphones that disconnected the internal speakers when headphones were plugged in and the other was marked "Line" that provided audio to an external amplifier if desired.
The 'line output' disappeared as I upgraded to laptops exclusively. Haven't had a desktop/all-in-one since somewhere back in the early 90's. I used "Docking Stations" when I wanted more outputs.
|
Microlite Mike
|
08/02/22 05:19pm |
Technology Corner
|
|
RE: How to REMOVE brake drum races using a shop press?
Maybe try this non existent tool
https://www.harborfreight.com/3-jaw-pilot-bearing-puller-4876.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=12144811130&campaignid=12144811130&utm_content=117789253198&adsetid=117789253198&product=4876&store=726&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI3K3u7uul-QIV0WxvBB28SgqQEAQYBCABEgLoVfD_BwEI'd rather spend the 13.00 on beer for after I finish the job using a drift... Heck, in a pinch, I have used a screwdriver.
Agree on the beer and using a screwdriver. Over the years I've actually found that a screwdriver actually got more "grip" on the race, depending on the hub.
Problem with this tool, and the bearing races they are supposed to pull, is that there is no room behind the race, where it is pressed into the hub' for it to grip.
The tool is for "Sleeve Type Bearings" where there is plenty of room for the 'fingers" to reach through and grip the EXPOSED surface of the sleeve.
Even if the fingers fit thorough the race (maybe the rear but good luck on the front), setting up the tool would take more time than a drift punch and hammer.
|
Microlite Mike
|
08/02/22 05:07pm |
Travel Trailers
|
|
RE: Ground material falling into lower storage compartment
My 2018 model MicroLite came with about a gallon of sawdust included at no charge. Pretty much evenly divided among all storage compartments as well as hidden spaces. After a week of work with a vacuum cleaner I THOUGHT I had it cleaned up.
Foolish thought as road vibration kept shaking more and more out of nooks and crannies.
It's been 5 years since I brought it home along with approximately 40,000 or so miles I think it is NOW all gone.
When I red "beige, granular, substance", that's exactly what I found.
Sawdust is pretty easy to "diagnose". Fill a bowl with water, spread some on top of the water, and leave overnight. If sawdust it will first float, and with time the granules will swell up much larger.
Since it's a Rockwood, a Forest River product, my money is on "sawdust". They find it easier to just leave in their finished products rather than increase the amount of waste they have to pay disposal fees on.
|
Microlite Mike
|
08/02/22 05:00pm |
Travel Trailers
|
|
RE: Who has removed bell cranks?
Those OEM bushed bell cranks were a piece of junk from the start. Bushings need a little clearance to perform properly. The bearing bell cranks from Henderson have no clearance (play).
There is a lot of pressure on those bell cranks to change the steering motion 90°, thus slop in the steering wheel.
You did a good thing spending a few $$ with Henderson.
Richard
And the pressure when turning steering wheel back and forth while sitting still is even greater than when driving down the road.
It takes plenty of effort to move a rolling wheel to steer but when the tire is gripping the floor/pavement while checking for play it takes even more.
|
Microlite Mike
|
07/31/22 09:22pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: How to REMOVE brake drum races using a shop press?
Hello all--
I wanted to see if anyone has a method for removing brake drum/hub bearing races from trailer brake drums using a simple shop press.
I know there are kits that use machined alum discs of various sizes to install races and seals (either with a hammer, press, and air hammer) but have never seen how to remove them using a shop press.
I know how to remove races using a brass drift and hammer. You must access race at an angle, as the race can not be hit vertically with the drift. This is what makes using a press a challenge.
So.....how can races be removed from brake drums using a shop press?
Maybe it's so simple, I can't see it or think of it!!!
Thanks!
You listed pretty much all the reasons why it's too difficult to bother.
I've been using shop presses for over six decades and I can add a couple reasons to the list:
Shop presses are usually used to store all kinds of junk when not in use or are behind junk stored in front of them.
You have to adjust press beam to the right height.
If you don't want to bend hub/drum/disc you have to find a suitable backing device.
The action of the press is usually very slow.
By the time one gets the press cleared out/off, set up, and race pressed out (different setup for front and rear races) the average person could have all the races "punched" out of all four hubs/drums/disc's and well on their way to just installing with a proper tool (kit is about $50 or less on amazon for races and seals)
Shop presses are for gears and press on axle bearings. A waste of time for wheel bearing races.
Might be useful on large truck and off road equipment hubs but usually a portable hydraulic puller kit is more practical.
|
Microlite Mike
|
07/31/22 09:14pm |
Travel Trailers
|
|
RE: Generator Security
Securing the generator with either a stout chain or heavy duty cable, as well as a "bolt cutter resistant" padlock will do the job. Most thieves are after targets of opportunity and will grab the generator cleverly hidden under a picnic table, under a tarp, or in a pickup bed with no 'tether'.
Last time I went to Quartzsite I saw all kinds of generators with nothing securing them and some that had nothing more than a dog tether chain that could be cut with diagonal cutters.
Just remember, thieves will first go for the easy score. Then, if they really want something, you can't secure it well enough. For that event, there's insurance.
|
Microlite Mike
|
07/27/22 08:02pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Lithium Battery Charging System
Smart to stay with wet cell batteries. The more the other types are sold the less expensive wet cells become. Adjusting for inflation of course. A big plus for me is not worrying over my batteries and any potential hazard.
With LiFePo4 batteries there are actually fewer hazards than with "Wet Cell" batteries. No electrolyte to spill, no explosive gases to vent, no corrosion, freedom to mount in ANY position or ANY location.
As for price? Add the extended lifetime of a LiFePo4 battery, compared of a "wet cell" and the lifetime cost goes way down.
Going forward heavy lead acid chemistry batteries are going to be less and less desirable for all as fuel prices go up and the need for lighter RV's goes up as well. A 100 ah battery that weighs 25-30 lbs with up to 100% usable capacity or a 60+ lb battery with only 50% usable capacity recommended? Fuel consumption and load weight go hand in hand. As load weight goes up the need for more btu's to create horsepower will increase. That means more fuel burned. To think otherwise is just wishful thinking.
BTW, the resistance to change, accepting new technology is pretty much the "American Way". People were so resistant to changing to automobiles they even passed laws making it difficult for people to use those "newfangled devices" and figured horses were good enough.
|
Microlite Mike
|
07/23/22 03:18pm |
Truck Campers
|
|
RE: Piece of **** inept motorists!
If you confronted him, he more than likely would have said it was your fault for being in his way:(Yes if lucky. Otherwise could be headed for a beat down or worse.
Who could be headed for a beat down? Grit Dog?
From reading some of his past posts, and deducing from those as to what his occupation is, me thinks he is not going to take much of a beat down from some gas station wussy.
Beat downs are "so yesterday". Today, just like happened Thursday in Seattle, you confront another driver over a "driving issue" and the other driver might just shoot and kill you. If you confronted them they just claim "Self Defense" and the police don't even arrest you.
https://news.yahoo.com/road-rage-shooting-results-death-013046570.html
This is the cell phone era. Take pictures/videos, don't threaten, if there's the risk of escalation call police or just report it afterward. I carry insurance to deal with issues like described and provide offending party's license number if necessary.
|
Microlite Mike
|
07/23/22 03:00pm |
Tow Vehicles
|
|
RE: Micro Minnie manual slide out
Can’t find the port to attach manual crank. Micro Minnie 2019, 2108DS. SOME SAY IT SHOULD BE OPPOSITE SLIDE, In big frame. Help, please.
On through frame slide actuators, the manual operating shaft may or may not extend fully through the frame from the gearbox. Some have a short extension with a hex head that allows the slide to be operated with a socket and ratchet. Others have an adapter with a length of shaft attached that extends through the frame and can be accessed with a crank handle without having to get under the trailer.
When slide is out, locate the actuator (round tube that goes back into the frame. The manual operator "port" is on the end farthest away from the slide itself.
On mine it's hidden behind the folding stairs.
|
Microlite Mike
|
07/23/22 11:16am |
Travel Trailers
|
|
RE: Easy Start By Micro Air
From Micro Air's website: "Generators with 80CC and smaller engines are not recommended with 13.5K BTU and larger compressors. All other loads must be off when operating this close to a generator’s limit."
I mention this because a lot of inverter generators in the 2KW size range use 80CC engines - Champion, Yamaha, Wen, Harbor Freight, etc.
The Honda EU2000i models use a 100CC engine.
The EU2200i models use a 120CC engine - a full 1/3rd larger than 80CC models.
I have the Easy Start installed on my 13,500 btu A/C and power it with a Champion 2500 w Inverter generator. Does fine and will even start A/C when on 'Eco". Don't know what size engine in my 2500W Champion Inverter but I do know it's enough to run my A/C. Perhaps not for a 15,000 btu model though.
One thing worthy of note is that the A/C with Easy Start installed my A/C starts without the loud "jolt" even on shore power. Doesn't wake everyone in the TT when A/C cycles on in the middle of the night.
|
Microlite Mike
|
07/20/22 09:49am |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Do you pull your taillight housings monthly?
Sounds like either they build a crappy truck or want you to pay for a bogus service. Or someone on a forum is playing you. Things up north rust out real quick with salt use but that is rediculous.
Crappy truck yes. It's getting its fourth set of AFM lifters after seizing one at 103,000, a second at 140,750 and a third at 141250. Yes, it only ran 500 miles this last time before seizing a lifter again.
This was a forum guy telling me what *I* should have been doing to prevent the rust. Basically blaming me for the truck rusting out already.
They also figured out how to make it my fault that the AFM lifters seized. It's a really crappy forum.
Last summer I decided I needed a pickup vs SUV when I lost my wife. I looked at all three and ruled out the GM's because of this known issue and the RAM's because of the cam issues.
I ruled out GM products back in the early 90's when I watched the paint on our company's fleet of chev/gmc vehicles have paint peel off in sheets. It was like their paint jobs were merely lousy 'wraps".
|
Microlite Mike
|
07/20/22 09:42am |
Tow Vehicles
|
|
RE: cross winds?
I just adjust my friction sway control for regular driving and dealing with passing trucks, etc.
When side/crossing wind becomes an issue the best measure is to slow down. This gives you more time to react and adjust when hit with a gust than at higher speeds.
|
Microlite Mike
|
07/19/22 07:40pm |
Towing
|
|
RE: Can I get on my roof?
My general rule of thumb is if the TT/MH came with a ladder, the roof is "walkable".
That said, putting down something like the foam insulation panels mentioned is a great idea. Not only helps distribute weight but protects the roof membrane from possible damage. Just changing directions while walking, twisting your shoe(s) on the membrane, might cause wrinkling. Also much easier on the knees which most will spend a lot of time on them while doing roof maintenance.
|
Microlite Mike
|
07/19/22 08:55am |
Travel Trailers
|
|
|
|
|
|
