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 > Your search for posts made by 'NRALIFR' found 487 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: New license plate for my TC.

That’s awesome. I’ve only been asked 2-3 times (by a LEO) in about 30 years where my tag was. I’ve always answered politely, just like that. Nobody has had a problem with it yet. Several years ago I did start putting the truck tag # and the state two-letter abbreviation on the camper bumper with 3” high reflective letters. I figure any LEO worth his salt should be able to figure out what that is. :):)
NRALIFR 05/10/21 04:11pm Truck Campers
RE: Coach solenoid disconnect to dc/dc converter

I can’t tell from your post, so I’ll just ask: Is the input wire to the DC-DC charger switched? In other words, is it energized all the time, or does it become energized when you start the vehicle, or flip a switch manually? If it’s already switched, then you just connect the “starter wire” (D+ Ignition) to the same source as the +DC input terminal. Unless your wanting to have total control over when the DC-DC charger is actually charging, then you would run the D+ Ignition wire from the +DC source, then through a switch, then connect it to the +DC input terminal on the DC-DC charger. :):)
NRALIFR 05/10/21 01:25pm Tech Issues
RE: Foam Core Floor Repair. Epoxy?

I’ve never had those type floors, but I’ve done a lot of difficult repairs on my TC that involved removing laminated structures down to a single inner or outer layer, then rebuilding what was removed. I’m pretty confident I could cut out the open area of that floor down to the bottom ply, then replace it with plywood that would preserve the height of the floor surface. I’d try to make the top ply patch even bigger than the plywood patch that would be replacing the foam that’s there now so the seams aren’t all on top of each other. Are there ever any wires or plumbing running inside that type floor? Sure hope not. :):)
NRALIFR 05/10/21 10:07am Travel Trailers
RE: Foam Core Floor Repair. Epoxy?

I think before I would mess with drilling holes and injecting epoxy, since you’re going to have to replace the floor covering anyway I’d just cut out everything down to the bottom ply of the subfloor and replace it with plywood subfloor material. I would confine the cutting to the open/walkable floor area unless there was water damage that needed to be fixed. :):)
NRALIFR 05/10/21 07:47am Travel Trailers
RE: Dometic fridge not cooling on LP. Just LP.

Dan, the propane regulator I have currently is adjusted by turning the adjuster under the dust cap clockwise to increase the pressure, counterclockwise to decrease. Sometimes it’s marked on the regulator or the adjuster. You shouldn’t have to turn the adjuster very much at all to see a change in pressure. Having to turn the adjuster many turns, or finding that you’ve bottomed the adjuster is a sign that you need to replace the regulator. There is a test port on the fridge LP valve just before the orifice where you are supposed to connect your manometer, so you should use that if at all possible. On my fridge, I can’t get that plug out for some reason, so I have to use one on the generator. Using the test port on the fridge would verify that the gas valve is opening like it should, and the LP line doesn’t have a blockage of some kind. Yes, the lines can get blocked with a thick, dark oily goo at times. You might need to check for that. When I’ve removed the flue baffle to check or replace it, I’ve always run a 10 gauge shotgun brush up and down the flue to clean it as well. Since your baffle was replaced, can you verify that the correct one was used, and that it’s installed correctly? The baffle has to hang in the right spot inside the flue in order to concentrate the heat in the correct area. So if the new baffle is perhaps for a different model, there’s a chance the wire isn’t the right length for your fridge, or the flat twisted metal part isn’t the right diameter to fit your flue. I’ve always just bought my parts from whatever parts dealer I can find on the interweb that can get me the parts quickly. Finding the part number used to be the hardest part, but many of the parts dealers now have very good parts breakdowns on their website. Once you find the part number, then you can even just go to Amazon and find the best deal that way. Seems like when I was looking for the orifice part number for my fridge, I noted that there are different sizes available. There’s the default size that is always on a new fridge, then there’s one or two other sizes for high-elevation use. :):)
NRALIFR 05/10/21 05:51am Tech Issues
RE: Dometic fridge not cooling on LP. Just LP.

……… LP System Pressure OR obstructed burner orifice inhibiting the gas flow to burner ………. That’s a good point, an obstructed orifice could result in the same symptoms as low LP pressure. Soak it in alcohol then blow it out to clean it, or just replace it. It’s clearly an issue of not enough heat BTU’s are going into the cooling unit when running on LP, so the cooling unit performance is degraded. On mine, the flame produced with low LP pressure looks virtually the same as the flame produced with correct pressure. The only thing that’s noticeably different to me is the SOUND the flame makes. When the pressure is low, it’s almost silent. When the pressure is correct I can hear the flame without even removing the outside panel. I didn’t even realize that until I bought a manometer and adjusted the LP pressure myself. After adjusting it and hearing the flame, it was an “Oh yeah, I remember that sound now” moment for me. And yes, get a wireless fridge thermometer that will let you monitor the fridge and freezer temps without opening the doors. My fridge, which is probably smaller than the average fridge because it’s in a truck camper, will cool down quite rapidly on AC or LP when it’s working right. When something is wrong, I can tell pretty quickly. :):)
NRALIFR 05/09/21 07:02pm Tech Issues
RE: Dometic fridge not cooling on LP. Just LP.

I’d get a second opinion on that burner, or buy a manometer and check the LP pressure myself. It should be at least 11” wc WITH the LP system loaded about 50%, which means you ought to be running the furnace and water heater while checking the pressure. I just noticed you said new baffle, so I removed that suggestion. Seriously, check the LP pressure again. The flame can LOOK good, but still be too low btu-wise. :):)
NRALIFR 05/09/21 04:28pm Tech Issues
RE: water heater works fine - IF- I leave door open

........ If true, that seems dumb. ........... But not uncommon. I’ve had several gas appliances that also use the igniter for flame detection. I’m guessing $$ has something to do with it. :W :):)
NRALIFR 05/09/21 10:18am Tech Issues
RE: Very disappointed

Not true. NC will honor a MD resident or non-resident permit. MD is not a particularly “good” state to hold a CCW permit from, however. They don’t reciprocate with all states that issue CCW permits like NC does, so there are a lot of states that won’t honor MD’s permit either. https://i.imgur.com/mKXPqWVl.png :):)
NRALIFR 05/09/21 07:39am Full-time RVing
RE: 30A adapter

Raife, since you don’t have a gas furnace, you might want to consider installing a freestanding stove that uses either NG or wood pellets for fuel. Until recently, I had a wood burning stove, and one of the circuits I made sure the standby generator energized was the one that the stove uses for the blower fan. After over 30 years of dealing with firewood, though (actually it’s the firewood dealers I was sick of dealing with) I replaced the woodstove with a Harmon XXV-TC pellet stove. I can’t say enough good things about that stove. It is totally automated in its operation, and the maintenance of it is so much easier than than a wood burner. Building a fire in the pellet stove involves touching the “On” icon on the touchscreen panel on top. It lights itself and controls the burn rate to maintain the room temperature with a wireless temperature sensor. The fuel is so much easier and cleaner to store, too. We never lost power during that winter storm we just had, but the igniter in my main gas furnace decided to fail the day it started snowing so I couldn’t use it. The pellet stove was providing most of the heat in my house for several days. The burn rate got as high as 70 lbs/24 hrs, or almost two bags a day. I would have been hurting without it. I know there are also freestanding NG fueled stoves that look similar to a pellet stove, and their power requirements would be about the same. Probably less maintenance than a pellet stove though. :):)
NRALIFR 05/09/21 07:09am Beginning RVing
RE: Very disappointed

I have about the same deal here in NC. I have lived here 15 years and can't get a concealed permit because I don't have a NC drivers license. Own property, pay taxes, etc but thats not enough. That’s true, but NC also honors permits from all other states (reciprocity). Can you get a permit in the state your DL is from? :):)
NRALIFR 05/08/21 07:29pm Full-time RVing
RE: 30A adapter

That’s why I mentioned that the generator could be used to run a gas furnace. Furnace fan motors are typically 120 volts, and will require much less wattage than electric heaters, so if at all possible you should make it possible to use your gas furnace in a power outage. Letting your house freeze up is not a good idea at all. That kind of cold doesn’t happen often in TX, but as we just saw, when it does happen, it’s bad. I’m “next door” in AR, and it got cold enough here that I was having to pay very close attention to how cold the vulnerable water pipes in my house were getting. Some of my neighbors didn’t pay attention and had frozen/broken water lines. :):)
NRALIFR 05/08/21 11:24am Beginning RVing
RE: 30A adapter

You anti-generator bigots need to slow down and read what the OP posted......TWICE. The OP said he is wanting this generator “for emergency home use and maybe boondocking”. In his second post (which I’m not going to quote because it’s already been quoted and ignored once), he’s described usage that is totally home emergency use. So I would say that his intended usage is PRIMARILY home use. Neither situation will bother you or any other campers. The OP is from Texas, and I’m inclined to give him the benefit of the doubt that “boondocking” means nobody else will be around that will give a shyte. As for home emergency use, he said he will be running it on NG, which is a good plan for obvious reasons. Using NG as the fuel source will de-rate the generator output to about 7KW though, so that should be kept in mind. I don’t consider it to be over-kill for a unit that is primarily for home standby use. It has 240 volt circuits, so it could be used for a small central air system, but you’ll have very little capacity left of you do. Since the OP has NG available at home though, if he has gas furnaces, the generator can be used to run those. I’m sure he’s very well aware of this now after the power problems Texas just experienced, staying warm can be critical in a winter power outage. If he experienced a long outage in the summertime, it has enough excess capacity that it could be used to run a portable or window mounted AC. It’s also large enough to run all of the critical loads in a typical house, and allow you to live more or less normally during an extended outage. You need to consider powering things like refrigerators, freezers, pumps, fans, garage door openers, hair dryers, microwaves, washers and dryers, and probably a few things I’m forgetting during an extended power outage. Raife, just for comparison sake, I have a 10KW home standby generator installed at my house. It uses NG for the fuel, so its de-rated to 9KW. It has the ability to provide 240 volts, but I’m not using it for any 240 circuits because that reduces the number of 120 volt circuits the transfer switch panel can support. It’s powered us through several extended outages over the years, most of them in the wintertime. We’ve had a couple of long summertime outages though, and I’ve had to use a portable AC to give us a cool place to sleep, and cool the room the boss uses as a home office. It’s run for as long as a week continuously, and will add about $100 to our gas bill after running that long. I remember one of those summertime outages that the daytime temperature was getting over 100* every day, which also de-rates its output, and the generator was running very close to overload for several hours each day. Now having said all that, for strictly RV use I prefer the quieter inverter based units, even if nobody else is around to hear it. My TC has a 3600 LP generator built in that is an inverter type, but it’s used so seldom that at 20 years old it has less than 150 hours on it. I also carry a Yamaha 1000 that’s much quieter than the built-in, and I use the snot out of it. It has no hour meter on it, but I use it all the time both at home and camping. :):)
NRALIFR 05/08/21 05:46am Beginning RVing
RE: Benefit of extra fuel tank.

Dang, the smug is getting thick in here! Good thing I can crank open a roof vent and let all that hot air out. Cuz heat rises. :W :):)
NRALIFR 05/07/21 03:45pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Lets try it this way....

Passed some old iron yesterday..had to stop and take a few shots. https://i.imgur.com/jKq3F9F.jpg]https://i.imgur.com/jKq3F9F.jpg ........... Gary Mack B61.........I want one soooooooo bad. Maybe a little closer to this one though. :W https://i.imgur.com/KBPxkVol.jpg :):)
NRALIFR 05/07/21 10:27am RVing in Canada and Alaska
RE: Lance Bumper clamp repair. Need picture.

Like this. It’s a flat spring hasp. I had to drill out the rivets holding the old one, and drill new holes to rivet this one on. I have a hairpin cotter in it to make sure it stays closed. Spring Hasp https://i.imgur.com/doyqHyDl.jpg :):)
NRALIFR 05/07/21 10:06am Truck Campers
RE: Lance Bumper clamp repair. Need picture.

On mine, a 2001 model, the bumper is aluminum, and the tabs are aluminum. The lower mounting tabs are two 90* aluminum angles, inserted from the back-side of the bumper, and welded along the top and bottom edges. From your pictures, I can see the remains of a rivet on each side of the hole, so I suspect yours were not welded. That may have something to do with why yours broke off, because those two jack mounts are subjected to repetitive bending stress when loading the camper. When you back the truck under the camper, I think most of us tend to continue until you feel the front of the bed actually touch the bumpers on the front of the camper. It doesn’t take much pressure from the truck to put A LOT of stress on those tabs. Being aluminum, they readily bend. Do that a few dozen times, and I can see those two rivets getting broken. Over the nearly twenty years I’ve owned my camper, I’ve straightened those tabs twice while doing other repairs to the rear jack areas. Here’s what mine looks like from the backside of the bumper. This is on the passenger side. https://i.imgur.com/QH2B3Gjl.jpg The outside view of the driver side. You can see it has a slight bend in it. https://i.imgur.com/RJA4Efrl.jpg :):)
NRALIFR 05/07/21 06:11am Truck Campers
RE: Benefit of extra fuel tank.

It’s amazing, some folks’ level of conviction against extra fuel....too funny! I’ve often wondered about the same thing. I’ll just give it my “broad-brush” treatment and put it this way: They’re either too cheap (maybe frugal sounds better :W ) to buy one themselves, or they’re too stubborn (ultra practical? :W :W ) to admit that there ARE valid reasons besides just being able to buy large quantities of fuel at the cheapest price to having an extra/larger tanks. ROI isn’t even part of the equation for some of us. When I had a ‘95 F350 with dual tanks, I replaced the rear tank with a 40 gallon tank, and carried the spare on the rear bumper of the camper. I never had to worry about running out of fuel, or where the next fuel station was. https://i.imgur.com/Ql9qr7Hl.jpg I got used to that, and didn’t want to give it up when I bought my first F450. The 19.5 tire and wheel is much heavier though, so I could no longer carry it there. The OEM tank is 36 gallons though, so as long as I could have a Jerry can of fuel with me, I’d be fine with that. https://i.imgur.com/qmDXQfQl.jpg I had been thinking about a way to re-purpose the spare tire carrier that had gone unused for a few years, and finally came up with a way to convert it into a fuel can carrier. The 20L can is a Swiss Army surplus, and the 5L can is brand new, and they both use the same spout. I’ve used the Diesel can more than once on a trip when the terrain or the wind blew my expected fuel mileage and it became obvious we were going to come up short from our planned fuel stop. I’ve been glad I had it easily accessible several times. I am a notorious pack-rat, and salvage all kinds of things (junk) that would otherwise be thrown away at work, and I had several heavy steel angle plates, a 4'x4' sheet of 1/2" high density polyurethane, a bunch of 6" long carriage bolts, etc. I was actively trying to find a way to use some of this good junk, so I could free up some shelf space in my storage building for newer, gooder junk. I bought the Jerry can holder from a eBay auction at a good price, and I bought the nylon locking nuts. Everything else is salvaged. Actually, I consider the spare tire mount to be salvage as well, since it was originally on an old truck I used to own before the F350. Here's a better view of the contraption with the Jerry cans removed. https://i.imgur.com/6aPEehol.jpg Backside showing salvaged 90 deg. plates. https://i.imgur.com/hZVm65Pl.jpg It can even still fold down, so that it’s easier to pull the can out. After doing some major damage to both my shoulders (torn rotator cuff, torn deltoid, torn biceps), that fold-down feature has been a shoulder-saver. I wouldn't be able to get a full 20L can of Diesel out of the holder if I had to lift it straight up. https://i.imgur.com/R4TJT0Al.jpg :):)
NRALIFR 05/06/21 08:29am Tow Vehicles
RE: 12v to 6v review?

The blatantly obvious contradictions of voluntarily becoming a member of an RV discussion forum and then posting on a discussion topic your objection to discussing the topic further is just.......mind boggling. :):)
NRALIFR 05/01/21 06:25am Tech Issues
RE: 19.5 DRW Upgrade

Andy, all I’m going to say is that the 19.5’s are one of the main reasons I’ve chosen two F450 pickups over an F350 to haul my camper. I need the “bulletproof” qualities that Gritdog spoke of. My off pavement driving includes the risk of damaging a tire when we are far from help. The 19.5 steel belted tread and sidewalls can take a lot more abuse than the average radial tire. That sidewall stiffness also contributes to more stable handling. As you said, nobody is going to be doing any rock-crawling or even very serious off-roading with a camper this size in the bed. When the camper starts getting tossed around to point that I have to worry about the tiedowns getting ripped out, that’s when I’m looking for a place to turn around. But if you’ve ever had a tire sidewall get “chunked” by a sharp rock, yet continue to hold air because the steel belts saved you, that’s when you know the 19.5’s were worth it. :):)
NRALIFR 04/29/21 12:31pm Truck Campers
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