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 > Your search for posts made by 'NRALIFR' found 506 matches.

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RE: JC refrigeration AC or DC upgrade?

Because the conversion isn't an absorption refer - it's a compressor similar to a household refer. That’s probably what I would recommend. No DC-AC conversion loss. Every 12/24VDC compressor refrigerator actually INCLUDES its own inverter ! The incoming DC voltage is converted to 3 phase AC and sent to the compressor motor. 3 phase is used because it is a much more efficient way of powering a motor. Just to be clear, this "built in" inverter is specially designed just for this application. The AC output voltage does not have to "match" any "standard". It can be whatever voltage the inverter and motor designers choose ! Also, many (most ?) of these inverter are variable frequency meaning that the compressor motor itself runs at different speeds as the required. If I lost you, a DC compressor refrigerator is likely more efficient than a straight up residential AC refrigerator powered by a separate inverter. Yeah, that would have to be a very special inverter to produce 3-phase AC from 12v DC. The curiosity in me wonders how they do it. I’m familiar with rotary and static AC phase converters, but not DC. The OP is trying to decide between two conversion options from JC Refrigeration. They offer a an AC kit and a DC kit. This is a screen grab of the DC unit that’s supposed to be for my fridge. 12V 7.5A 90W I don’t see anything that I can identify as a dedicated power conditioning device, so I assume it’s inside the sealed can??? https://i.imgur.com/X4Xnxk1l.jpg And this is the AC conversion kit. I’m assuming these are pictures of the actual units, but they look identical to me. 120V .8A 96W https://i.imgur.com/YfacnJ9l.jpg So, from a power efficiency standpoint, which would be the better way to go? AC conversion kit, or DC? :):)
NRALIFR 01/30/21 03:42pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: JC refrigeration AC or DC upgrade?

My Dad just got one this week, it's not installed yet so no feedback on that, but we talked it through and he went with the 12v version on his coach. Reasoning was that when connected to shore power, the converter will provide the power, and while on the road or boondocking, he wouldn't need to run the inverter with it's losses. If by chance, the refer draws the batteries down faster than the alternator can recharge them (doubtful because I think it draws 7 or 8 Amps only when the compressor is running), he can always start up the generator. For anyone that is planning to be mobile, I don't see a compelling reason to go with the 120v version. That’s probably what I would recommend. No DC-AC conversion loss. Another option if the alternator can’t keep up would be a DC-DC charger. You could probably install a small (charging amps) DC charger without a wiring upgrade, and your house batteries would charge better too. :):)
NRALIFR 01/30/21 01:27pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: FLEXIBLE FRESH WATER HOSE

I will. In case your not familiar with my camping style though, I’ll tell you right up front that I never connect my TC to the campground water system. The freshwater tank is always full when we’re traveling, and the hose only comes out to refill it. Why? Because my waste tanks are smaller than even a newer TC of this size has nowadays. Using the water pump keeps everyone focused on not using too much water. Also, where I store the hose isn’t a “wet bay” area like a lot of RV’s have, so I’m in the habit of draining the hose completely before putting it away. I can’t have a water filled hose leaking into that storage compartment and damaging it. But, if the new hose turns out to not be a good fresh water hose, then it will replace my old “utility” hose. That’s the one I don’t mind connecting to the black tank wand, or any other unsanitary chore. My current utility hose is a cheap-o flat hose on a wind-up reel that I think I bought at a dollar store. It has issues that’s making it difficult to wind back up, and needs to be replaced anyway. :):)
NRALIFR 01/29/21 06:40am Tech Issues
RE: FLEXIBLE FRESH WATER HOSE

D@MN!! :M Yet another example of “One size doesn’t fit all”! That won’t be a problem for me. The old hose wasn’t exactly problem free itself, especially when it’s cold. :):)
NRALIFR 01/29/21 12:14am Tech Issues
RE: New Thermostat Question

Well Drew, I ordered the temperature controller pictured above, and installed it. https://i.imgur.com/Eq4sTFSl.jpg The way I have it programmed, the target temperature is 40°, and it will let the temperature at the probe drop 5° below that before it will turn the furnace on. If the temperature gets 6° below the target temp, it will flash the display as a low temp alarm. The thermostat wires from the furnace are connected in parallel to the temperature controller and the wall thermostat. When the temperature controller is powered on, it will turn the furnace on regardless of whether the wall thermostat is in “Heat” mode or “Off”. https://i.imgur.com/dxK3cygl.jpg The instructions that came with the controller say that the “Rst” button also functions as an on/off button, but you do have to hold it down for 3 seconds. I installed it with a real on/off switch instead. I installed it where I did because it’s right above the furnace, and I had easy access to the power and thermostat wires. This is the backside of the unit. That’s the furnace below it. https://i.imgur.com/6n7NeONl.jpg The temperature probe is in the black and gray tank area, near the valves. It’s reading air temperature, but I considered whether I should have it in contact with the gray tank or maybe the pipe just before the gate valve. The primary intent is to prevent the gray tank from freezing, so it may take some experimentation to determine the best location. https://i.imgur.com/4Q71yMwl.jpg The furnace duct that’s heating that area can be seen in this image (silver flex duct). I wanted the probe to be far enough away from it that it wasn’t immediately influenced by it, but close enough to the gray tank gate valve that it can prevent it from freezing. https://i.imgur.com/IJRo2qml.jpg Drew, I appreciate your help and suggestions with this. I didn’t even consider connecting two thermostats in parallel. I think it’s going to work just fine. That’s why I like this place. Extra eyes, extra brains. :W :):)
NRALIFR 01/28/21 05:38pm Tech Issues
RE: FLEXIBLE FRESH WATER HOSE

I ordered one of those Forest Service garden hoses from Rawhide Firehoses, and it was delivered yesterday. That’s a nice hose! I tested it, and it doesn’t seem to add a taste to the water. I’ll hang on to my old hose though, just in case. It’s much lighter than the old hose, and fits on my hose reel better. https://i.imgur.com/z02PNN5l.jpg :):)
NRALIFR 01/28/21 03:20pm Tech Issues
RE: Lithium and DC-DC Charger?

Would a lithium battery that’s being charged by a DC-DC charger that’s limited to 50 amps output and fused on the input side at 50, 60, or even 75 amps on the input side even need an LI-BIM? :):)
NRALIFR 01/25/21 07:21pm Truck Campers
RE: Federal Mask mandate

Disposable masks don’t seal at all, afaic. Even a non-medical professional like me can tell that the majority of the air I’m breathing isn’t going through the mask. It’s going around it. The amount going through it is negligible, especially after it gets a little moisture-laden. The only thing short of a respirator that’s intended to filter the air is an N95. But I still wear a mask (one at a time), because I know what they are supposed to do. And it’s not filtering the air. :):)
NRALIFR 01/25/21 06:52pm Public Lands, Boondocking and Dry Camping
RE: Federal Mask mandate

Fauci said just today regarding double masking: “ it just makes common sense that it likely would be more effective," OK, let’s stipulate that’s true. Then, why not six masks? After all, it just makes common sense. If two is better than one, then six is even more better than one. It’s just common sense. Why aren’t we wearing six masks? There’s also the matter of “psychological protection” by wearing multiple masks, which was mentioned by another expert. We need LOTS of that. Especially since it isn’t about “protection” at all. It’s all about projection. Virtue projection. The more masks you wear, the more virtuous you are. :):)
NRALIFR 01/25/21 06:22pm Public Lands, Boondocking and Dry Camping
RE: Lithium and DC-DC Charger?

Alex, I like your review of the Renogy unit. I’m glad to see more TC owners making use of them. In my opinion, they are just what some of us have been needing for years. Your installation looks very much like mine using a Redarc 40 amp DC-DC charger. Mine has a solar input as well, which I’m not using yet but probably will at some point. I used 4 AWG wires on mine as well. It works very well, and I’m glad I went that route. It’s nice seeing someone else come to the same conclusions I did about their value. You said “having the Renogy DC50s in your camper increases the likelihood of your batteries arriving at close to a full charge when you arrive at camp.” That is exactly what I’ve been saying about mine. I can’t overstate the importance of that for me. I need to be ready to dry camp for at least a few nights at all times, and arriving at my destination with a depleted battery just, at minimum, makes my job more difficult, and at times takes options off the table for me. Thanks for the update on your install. :):)
NRALIFR 01/24/21 07:20pm Truck Campers
RE: Federal Mask mandate

As for the "mask Mandate", my only concern is the authorities may use it as a wedge to delve much deeper into your travels. Does it open up the door to "probable cause" leading to searching your car, RV and campsite looking for who knows what? Personally, I don't want to be stopped by the highway patrol on the interstate under the pretense of "you weren't wearing the mandated mask".No! This is borderline paranoia.Tell that to the minority communities and others who have lived for decades with policies like "Stop and Frisk". Those who have been pulled over for failing to signal a lane change, drifting onto the shoulder for a second, driving without a seatbelt, using a cellphone while driving etc. only to then have their vehicles searched, their IDs validated and only after the all clear let off with a "warning". In those cases it is obvious the intent was not to give a warning, but to use those minor violations as a way to investigate the car and driver. I see no reason a federal mask mandate couldn't be used as another workaround an otherwise warrantless search. Totally agree. And don’t think it’s out of the question for the US to try mandating wearing a mask EVERYWHERE, no exceptions. Including in your car, by yourself, with the windows rolled up. Some jurisdictions have already done it, or tried to do it. When policy is driven by panic and fear, anything is possible. Throw a little political vindictiveness in the mix and you have no idea how crazy emergency mandates can get. I’ve been hearing the “You’re just paranoid!” arguments for years regarding concealed carry and 2A issues in general. Nothing is more scary to me than an angry mob of panicked people. :):)
NRALIFR 01/24/21 10:34am Public Lands, Boondocking and Dry Camping
RE: Smartplug Converstion

I’ve got the mini version of that plug. Fits where I need it to fit. Camco Mini 30 Amp Plug :):)
NRALIFR 01/24/21 08:45am Travel Trailers
RE: Federal Mask mandate

Have you noticed that some have taken to wearing two masks; a disposable mask under a cloth mask??? DW does this to keep her makeup off her fancy stylish mask. Masks have become a fashion statement among the ladies. No kidding! I hate it when my lipstick ruins my favorite chili pepper print cloth mask! :W My apologies. I didn't realize you are female. I assumed you were the guy on the JD No, you’re correct. That’s me! Problem? :W :B :):)
NRALIFR 01/24/21 08:20am Public Lands, Boondocking and Dry Camping
RE: Smartplug Converstion

I wish Hubbell would make a 30-TT replacement plug. Well, they actually do make one, or at least there’s one made with the Hubbell name on it. I’ve got one in my stash of emergency parts I carry in the camper. It will work in a pinch, but it’s a very “ugly” connector, and due to where mine has to plug in to the generator outlet (no transfer switch) I really need a plug with the molded in finger-pull handle. https://i.imgur.com/8iHBjdzl.jpg :):)
NRALIFR 01/24/21 08:04am Travel Trailers
RE: Federal Mask mandate

Have you noticed that some have taken to wearing two masks; a disposable mask under a cloth mask??? DW does this to keep her makeup off her fancy stylish mask. Masks have become a fashion statement among the ladies. No kidding! I hate it when my lipstick ruins my favorite chili pepper print cloth mask! :W Seriously though, I’ve seen plenty of double-masking on makeup wearers and non-makeup wearers alike. I don’t claim to understand all the reasoning behind it though. I’m just happy to see them wearing a mask properly. :):)
NRALIFR 01/24/21 06:09am Public Lands, Boondocking and Dry Camping
RE: Federal Mask mandate

The favorite pass time of far too many now is conspicuous virtue signaling their own “goodness” while shaming all others who don’t meet their standards. Anyone below their level of agitation is judged to be ”Not taking this seriously enough”. Have you noticed that some have taken to wearing two masks; a disposable mask under a cloth mask??? Does that mean all of us who just wear one mask are “bad people” who just aren’t taking this seriously enough? There’s always going to be somebody who’s more squirmy than you are. :):)
NRALIFR 01/23/21 07:03am Public Lands, Boondocking and Dry Camping
RE: New Thermostat Question

Thanks Drew. I hadn’t considered connecting a second thermostat or controller in parallel. I’m going to mull that over a few days, but it seems like it should work. What do you think about this unit? Digital Temperature Controller https://i.imgur.com/wgi16gel.jpg One of the images with this unit shows some suggested wiring examples, and they are all showing a “load” device being controlled. In my case, the t-stat really isn’t a load as it doesn’t require voltage, so it seems to me the correct way would be to connect it like the example they label as “Wrong Wiring”, except with the temperature probe connected as well. The probe wire length should be long enough to reach the tank area through the bathroom cabinet that’s just to the left of the furnace. There’s already pass-through holes for the plumbing that I could route the wire through. Thanks for the suggestion. :):)
NRALIFR 01/22/21 05:10pm Tech Issues
RE: New Thermostat Question

Well, finding a digital thermostat with enough control over the cycle time that it would do me some good is proving to be impossible, so I’ve switched gears and decided to come at this from another direction. I still need to replace the RiteTemp t-stat because the up and down buttons have gotten difficult to use, but I’ll find a simple, non-programmable digital unit to replace it with. Had the Orbit t-stat not been so inaccurate on controlling the set temperature, I’d use it. I need the t-stat to have the +/- 1° swing that it claimed to be capable of. The RiteTemp is doing that now, so anything I replace it with needs to do that as well. Just to clarify, my need is to have the LP furnace run “once in a while” during extreme cold periods (below 30°) so the waste tank and valve area stays above freezing, while the living area of the camper is being heated primarily by an electric heater. If I have access to shore power, the electric heater will be running on its HI setting, if I’m using my Yamaha 1000 for power, it will be on its LO setting. The electric heater has its own thermostat that works pretty well. Under those conditions, rather than have the LP furnace be controlled by the digital t-stat, how about controlling it with a infinite cycle timer that has adjustable “ON” and “OFF” times? I’m thinking the furnace would need to run 10-15 minutes, then stay off for 1-2 hours. I would want it to do that endlessly, until I switched it back to the digital thermostat. I would monitor the temperature in the waste tank area with a wireless thermometer, and adjust the ON/OFF times so that it stays above freezing. The LP furnace will of course be adding heat to the living area while it’s running, but the electric furnace will react to that and not run as much. I see very little chance of overheating the living area while using the cycle timer, once I determine what the ON and OFF times need to be. My LP furnace has a two wire connection to the thermostat. One is “+Thermostat”, and the other is “Thermostat”. I believe this is what’s referred to as a “millivolt system” as there is no power on these two wires. If you connect them together, the furnace starts a heating cycle, and when you disconnect them, the furnace turns off. Functionally, what I think I need is something like this: Adjustable Cycle Times Switch Module https://i.imgur.com/XaMO4IFl.jpg From the description, it looks like if you supply the cycle timer with 12v DC, then you will have 0-120 minutes of ON and OFF time adjustability. I’m not locked in to this particular cycle timer though. I would prefer one in a case that could be mounted out in the open. In addition to the cycle timer, I would install a switch on the two thermostat wires so they were connected to EITHER the wall thermostat, OR the cycle timer. Never both. The ON and OFF times need to be easily adjustable. That’s one thing I do like about this unit, is the simple, mechanical way of setting the cycle times. I would also install an on/off power switch to give the timer 12v, and jumper the trigger circuit on. The board would power up in a “triggered” state. I would install this on the wall next to the furnace, where there’s easy access to the thermostat wires, and 12v power. So, any recommendations on a cycle-timer like this, from a reliable brand? This one can be had for about $10, but the reviews (of course) range from “It’s great” to “it doesn’t work”. Can you think of any reason why this wouldn’t work? It seems like a fairly simple, and inexpensive way to achieve what I’m wanting. Another option may be to just install another thermostat in the waste tank area, and a switch to control which thermostat is controlling the LP furnace. Thermostats aren’t typically designed to control a heating system below about 45°, and that’s about the highest I would want to keep that area. I see more of a chance of overheating the living area trying to use a thermostat like that than with a cycle timer. :):)
NRALIFR 01/22/21 12:16pm Tech Issues
RE: That’s A Bunch Of Grass!

I’m not sure what axle was on the rear of the 2011-2014 F450’s, but it wasn’t the Dana S130. None of the F450 pickups used that axle, it was used on the cab and chassis F450’s though. The 2008-2010, and the 2015-2016 F450 pickups used the Dana S110 and 19.5 tires and wheels. At the beginning of the video, you can clearly see that the front driver side wheel is 8-lug. The ‘11-‘14’s were oddballs that weren’t much different from the F350. :):) According to this guy his 2015 pickup came with an S130, which in the photos look identical to his F550: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1410665-f450-rear-axle.html#post15860273 Was there a change / heavy spec pkg that used the S130? 2011 thru 2014 used the Dana 80 in the F450 pickup. That’s what I was thinking, but couldn’t find any info verifying that. I believe the 2011-2014 DRW F350’s used the Dana 80 as well. According to the info in the FTE topic RoyJ linked, the rear axle in my 2016 is an S130, not the S110 like I thought. Mine never had the paper tag that clearly stated the axle type, and the metal tag on it isn’t at all clear about what it is. https://i.imgur.com/i0N6ojkl.jpg But, this casting stamp supposedly identifies it as an S130., and that’s exactly what mine looks like. https://i.imgur.com/xxpv5Kwl.jpg So, maybe it is. :):)
NRALIFR 01/21/21 07:19pm Tow Vehicles
RE: That’s A Bunch Of Grass!

Well that’s interesting, as I’ve had both a 2010 and a 2016 and looked at the axle tags on both. They were both S110’s. Plus, I’ve never seen any doc that spec’d the S130 on the F450 pickup. I wonder if they were running out of supply of the S110? That was near the end of their run. IIRC, there were only two rear axle ratios available for the S110 equipped F450 pickups. 4.30 and 4.88. :):$
NRALIFR 01/21/21 01:35pm Tow Vehicles
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