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 > Your search for posts made by 'Octaneforce' found 24 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Tire Ply 14 or 16?

I went from 14 to 16 on my steer tires when i changed from the 8r19.5 to the metric 245/70/19.5. But it was mostly because the tire model i wanted happened to be 16 ply and a higher weight rating. I think the bigger question is if a 16 ply tire is stronger than a 14 ply tire at equal tire pressure, and that specific pressure being well below both of their pressure limits. This sort of discussion can go on forever. I digress. Purchase whatever tire has the correct payload. Make sure to weigh your rig if you never have. Going by GVW is good when selecting a tire, but odds are you wont need the max tire pressure.
Octaneforce 01/01/23 10:29am Class A Motorhomes
RE: P30 Disc brake vs drum brake ball joints

It seems that theres often 4 options for lower ball joints when you look for them; Motorhome/stripped chassis with rear disc (part number 6511) *this is the correct one* P30 standard van with rear disc (part number 6175) P30 with rear drum (part number 6129) F44 heavy duty chassis (part number 6117) *im not sure what truck these are for* OK what would be the difference between the stripped chassis and the P-30 with rear disc? Im not sure, its different part numbers so id have to assume chevy did something to change the front end for each application. I assume the p30 with rear disc means a regular bread truck, and the stripped chassis got some minor change when they built them for rv manufacturers. To be clear i only did this research as it applies to my 1993 model year, however it seems to be the same confusion for most of the 90’s
Octaneforce 11/15/22 08:53pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: P30 Disc brake vs drum brake ball joints

The ball joints for disc brake P-30 are shorter and fatter than those listed in most cases. The C-30 uses the same ones. Its strange, chevy used the c-30 name for the pickups and the vans at different times. As far as my 1993 motorhome p30 goes, no other truck that year shares the same lower ball joint part number. I looked into the other pickups and bans of older years and they all seem to use the drum brake part number for the lower ball joint. I didnt look into the uppers. Its all very fugazi
Octaneforce 11/11/22 09:40pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: P30 Disc brake vs drum brake ball joints

The ball joints for disc brake P-30 are shorter and fatter than those listed in most cases. The C-30 uses the same ones. It seems that theres often 4 options for lower ball joints when you look for them; Motorhome/stripped chassis with rear disc (part number 6511) *this is the correct one* P30 standard van with rear disc (part number 6175) P30 with rear drum (part number 6129) F44 heavy duty chassis (part number 6117) *im not sure what truck these are for*
Octaneforce 11/11/22 09:17pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: P30 Disc brake vs drum brake ball joints

This is a very serious issue. I had two failures due to a shop installing the wrong ball joints. The first failure was entering an interstate in Ohio rounding a corner at 20 mph and the left ball joint failed and the whole front end dropped. After it was fixed the shop back in Ct had to do additional work and replaced the correct ball joints with the undersized ones. The second failure was rounding a corner in Montana at 60 mph and the RH ball joint failed, I thought the MH was going to flip over but I managed to stop it safely. The was no warning sounds of clunking just a sudden failure and the whole front end just dropped. The lighter P-30's have drum brakes in the rear, the heavier ones have disc brakes in the rear. After much research I had the shop in MT. replace the ball joint with Moog parts. The confusion for the person who orders the parts is the ball joints listed under the rear drum brakes say HD so they think it is stronger not realizing the ball joint is undersize. The difference is P-30's with rear drum brakes get one part number and P30's with rear disc brakes get another part number. I cant beleive these ball joints didnt fail like you described. They were clunking for over a year and nobody believed me. It appears that the lower ball joint can be pretty bad and still hold together thru gravity, but the upper ball joint would allow the control arms to seperate and be more catastrophic. That whole front end on these is under built.
Octaneforce 11/11/22 08:53pm Class A Motorhomes
P30 Disc brake vs drum brake ball joints

https://ibb.co/hmHLG0S https://i.ibb.co/BCjchk9/EEF73319-5818-4-F2-A-86-AE-4-E70-B4-B99-FA8.jpg Ive had issues with the ball joints on my p30 since ive owned it. Ive had shops replace them twice in my ownership, and the rest of the time they told me the ball joints are fine. Well i developed a new clunk in my front end and determined it was my lower ball joints because the castle nut would not longer stay “snugged” down and i was cranking on them at every gas stop during my last trip. I decided to replace all the ball joints myself and put this problem to rest. I did a ton of research and bought the proper part numbers for my disc brake model p30 and even purchased a few different brands to compare them. Worked until about 8pm last night taking my time and confirming i have no other issues. The lower ball joints practically fell out of the truck when i loosened all the hardware. As you can see in the picture above, the truck had the WRONG lower ball joints in it, despite my attempts to explain to the recent shop that did it that there are 2 kinds. I suspect that it had the wrong ball joints the first time i had them replaced as well. Pictured: left joint is the existing drum brake style ball joint. The shaft is shorter and every so slightly narrower, which explains why it became so loose Right joint is a new old stock parts master disc brake style ball joint i bought on ebay for this comparison. Ive installed moog all around. Sorry for the winded post but my mind is blown that this has gone on for so long. P30’s honestly shouldnt be on the road due to lack of repair knowledge in the industry but ive got so much invested into this thing that it needs to get me another few years.
Octaneforce 11/06/22 05:08am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Sway bar issues

A little off topic but when you replaced your springs, did you have the front end aligned to SuperSteer specs. It made a world of difference in my P32. I did but its probably due for another one. It feels like the front end gets so thrashed over the bumps around here.
Octaneforce 09/08/22 04:46am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Sway bar issues

I believe I commented on the fact the end bushings were split and the center one is full. I think you installed in wrong positions. Yep you did and thats why i brought it up to them. But i went and looked and noticed all 4 of my current bushings are split. 100% without a doubt, all 4 have splits.
Octaneforce 09/07/22 05:46am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Sway bar issues

Hey everyone, so i got in touch with roadmaster and they were incredibly helpful. After seeing the pictures they said the A arm bushings should NOT be split so i must have got the wrong bushings. They are express shipping me solid bushings so I’ll swap those in and we’ll see if things look more proper. I appreciate the help!!! I will post an update after the swap.
Octaneforce 09/06/22 04:39pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Sway bar issues

Bushing could be deformed by slop in other front suspension components such as A-frame bushings or ball joints. A-frame bushings could be ovaled out. OP: glad to see other components like springs and bell cranks are great quality. This is what im starting to think. The front end seems tight upon inspection, but i must be missing something. I am not cheap about the safety of my family when it comes to maintaining my rv, However Im just not sure how much money i can keep pouring into a 30 year old rig. I’ll see how it is on my next trip. I was really hoping this upgrade would solve my sway issue. It also has a supersteer trac bar in the rear. I was also speculating that maybe i installed the swaybar upside down, but theres no info on direction anywhere in the paperwork, and it visually appears to be symmetrical.
Octaneforce 09/04/22 02:49pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Sway bar issues

To me it appears that the bushings are for a sway bar with a larger diameter than yours. It all came as 1 kit with the swaybar. They test fitted snug onto the swaybar. They just get deformed when i crank down on the brackets.
Octaneforce 09/04/22 08:52am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Sway bar issues

Walked and check bump stops. they are rectangular about 1.125 x 3 inches. Okay yep so are mine, and the gap is about 2 3/4
Octaneforce 09/04/22 06:18am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Sway bar issues

Did you measure the between bump stop and frame? Your bushings on the lower a frame definitely look distorted. Looks like super steer bell cranks. Yes thats a super steer bell crank From the round stop down is 1 1/4 inches From the square stop up is 2 3/4 inches
Octaneforce 09/03/22 08:03pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Sway bar issues

Another thing I see is the split bushings mounted to the a-frame. Normally split would be on pedestal mounts and solids would be on a-frame. what is the Roadmaster IPD part number? Mine is part number 4109-151 The square bump stop? Or the round bump stop? Part number 1109-116
Octaneforce 09/03/22 07:55pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Sway bar issues

Have you measured the distance between the rubber bump stop and the crossmember. min of 1.5 inches? I see blue springs. Are they variable rate replacements? If they are, was the rig weighed prior to ordering? if not variable rate, you need to install the air bags which rig should have had when new. They are supersteer coil springs that i did so i could eliminate the junk air bags that it came with. I had the rig weighed (with all my stuff in it) and ordered the correct spring rate based on the weight of my front axle. I think it was 5000 pounds.
Octaneforce 09/03/22 06:54pm Class A Motorhomes
Sway bar issues

I installed an upgraded roadmaster swaybar on my p30 pos. After torquing everything down the swaybar bushings seem deformed (see pics). Will it operate like this? I feel like no matter what i do this thing just doesnt sit right. The original swaybar had the exact same condition. Im at a loss with this thing. https://thumbs4.imagebam.com/95/6f/59/MECN8HV_t.jpeg https://thumbs4.imagebam.com/00/d1/6c/MECN8HW_t.jpeg
Octaneforce 09/03/22 06:32pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Who has removed bell cranks?

So i did a trip after i installed the new bell crank. It visually has no play anymore. It does drive better. Its still very very bad, but its a moderate improvement. I’ll be doing an oversize swaybar before my next trip. Heres a video of the steering components; https://youtu.be/jBAPbfvtxlk
Octaneforce 08/22/22 08:28am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Who has removed bell cranks?

The ones I have and help replace were coming apart and yes the replacement was needed. You should be able to move it and see the shaft move. Check all the links including the steering one. When we did our neighbors and replace everything that was loose it really tighten his front end up. Don't forget ball joints, and the bushing on the A-arms. Did you drive it with the new one installed. No i have not driven it yet. Its still apart because im debating putting the old one back in
Octaneforce 07/31/22 08:19pm Class A Motorhomes
Who has removed bell cranks?

My coach (in sig) drives absolutely terrible. All p30’s drive bad but mine is becoming dangerous despite the thousands of dollars ive put into it. I was under it while a helper was turning the steering, and noticed the driver side bell crank appeared to have a ton of play where the bell crank L shaped arm meets it. I thought this was an overlooked issue and ordered a supersteer bell crank. I removed the old bell crank today and to my surprise it doesnt have any play. It actually seems perfectly fine. So im left with these questions: How much pressure is on the bell crank? Is it possibly that i just cant apply enough force to replicate the play i saw happening while it was assembled? Is the super steer part really worth all the money? Im about to put it back together and return the new one. Has anyone been able to tangibly hold and observe the play on an old bell crank after doing this upgrade? I was hoping the old one would be a wobbly loose mess.
Octaneforce 07/31/22 04:19pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: 245’s on a 6 inch wheel?

I did 245/70/19.5 on the fronts. I got the bf goodriches. The coach drives MUCH better and doesnt shake anymore. I wish i did this sooner. Thank you for the help.
Octaneforce 07/22/22 05:36pm Class A Motorhomes
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