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RE: TC - New vs Extreme Makeover
If it is dry and has been dry you have a good base to start with. If it was ever leaking stay away as there are too many things that can go wrong. If you are handy with fixes even better as you can save a lot, any RV is expensive to fix, repair, update.
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Photomike
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12/11/18 04:05pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: Negotiating price on a used class c.
There is no set price for anything as options, condition and market all contribute to what the price will be.
A older motor home in perfect shape that has been kept updated may be listed for what many would consider a crazy price but what someone else would consider a great price.
Do your research and offer what you feel comfortable with. If the dealer takes it then fine, if not then walk away.
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Photomike
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12/07/18 08:44am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: 2014 Thor Four Winds Storage Compartment Issues
Is something loose that is causing it? Is the frame moving? I had one that was tight on my truck camper from the day I got it and I put a screwdriver in the tight side and pried a little towards the hinge and it worked great.
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Photomike
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12/04/18 12:52pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Advice on residential fridge in Class C please
Having seen an RV in my area burned down due to a refrigerator fire, I'm rather nervous about my Dometic, 3 years old and in my 27ft class C. I've read a little about res. fridges, but some negatives, so I would ask for a bit of advice on how long they last, durable brand, et cetera. I full time, rarely boondock, and have a good generator in case wherever I am parked the electric goes out.
What are you using and where do I find a good one, perhaps with a freezer in the top? Thanks, I have read about a few in this forum, but need more info.
Wandering Bark, 27ft Born Free.
With the hundred of thousand units on the market and you only have heard of one I would not worry. Make sure it is maintained and enjoy. More things to worry about than the fridge.
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Photomike
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11/28/18 09:26pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Can you have your cake and eat it too?
Really nothing special but
TCer on Tailer
From a while ago
TCer on Trailer #2
A few more here
TCer on Trailer #3
I like the one that they used a trailer
Tcer and Trailer #4
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Photomike
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11/26/18 10:40am |
Truck Campers
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RE: Keeping batteries in camper over winter?
Bring batteries into warm areas decreases their life span. It is good to fully charge, leave in place and disconnect.
Having solar to charge is even better than the above.
You just say that because there is no "warm area" where you live :B :B
I have to go shovel snow now :h
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Photomike
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11/24/18 08:57am |
Truck Campers
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RE: Can you have your cake and eat it too?
Price it out - a new Tcer is usually the highest cost camper out there. You may be able to get a custom trailer build with the deck behind complete for less than the Tcamper.
The back door on the camper issue is one I never thought of if you have a load on. If you do go for a truck camper maybe look for a side door unit and/or one made for a flat bed so the wing space is already closed in.
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Photomike
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11/23/18 12:48pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: How Common is a 4WD Class C?
I would like to get a good set of chains for the Class C for emergency use in place of 4x4 for muddy/ slushie /snowy roads but most Class C's state no chains.
Mike ... what's up with "but most Class C's state no chains"?
I've carried chains for our E450 24 foot Class C for years ... just in case. I'd put them on the outside rear tires if ever caught in heavy snow on mountain passes. The chains would probably even help some in certain desert road conditions when we go out there looking for rocks.
Is there some reason that chains on the outside rear tires wouldn't be recommended?
I am not sure, I have tried to find out why but nothing firm. One person said it has to do with the fact that it is not metal around the rear wheels. There was a thread on another forum about his, if I can find it I will post a link but that was a few years ago.
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Photomike
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11/16/18 08:27am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: How Common is a 4WD Class C?
For me I would love 4x4 on my class C but it is honestly too wide for anything around here other than gravel roads.
I would like to get a good set of chains for the Class C for emergency use in place of 4x4 for muddy/ slushie /snowy roads but most Class C's state no chains.
Beaches are flat, so overhang is not really a concern like it would be if you were trail running or rock climbing.
Yes the original poster would only really need the 4x4 part and some good tires for the beach. Many long class C's used on beaches without issues.
A lift would be nice but as soon as you try lifting any RV center of gravity becomes an issue on top of everything else.
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Photomike
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11/15/18 10:34pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Buying a Former Rental Class C. How many of us out there?
Wow...thanks for the quick response Photomike! Yes the reduction in the warranty isn't good as I wouldn't be using it until spring at the earliest.
It just came to me (I doubt that they would do it) but see if they would start the warranty in June :B
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Photomike
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11/11/18 07:06pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Buying a Former Rental Class C. How many of us out there?
After not much being available on the used market over the summer I am back looking at the possibility of buying a used majestic 23 A from Cruise Canada. The prices for the same model year vary depending on mileage and I'm wondering if anyone has any thoughts as to whether it is worthwhile to pay an extra $2000 for one that has 15,000 less miles on it. Unfortunately in Canada they have reduced the warranty to 5,000 km or three months.
Any input would be appreciated. Thankyou.
Myself I would not pay more for less miles, but that is me.
The warranty reduction sucks as most of the RV's will be in storage for the winter after they are bought so the warranty will be expired before they get used by the new owners.
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Photomike
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11/11/18 02:55pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: How used is too used?
The way I look at it is a new or newer low mileage unit can have as many or more problems then a well used one. I would rather buy a older unit in good shape that is cheaper and put in my money to fix things that need fixing if anything, then to buy new or newer and spend a ton and still have issues. My 19G was affordable, I did some servicing and it is as good as you can get it - in some ways better than if it was new as I upgraded items to my specs.
Biggest thing is a good body and camper shell.
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Photomike
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11/08/18 05:41pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Warranty Work Frustration After Frustration -
Problems can happen with any camper from cheap entry level units to the most expensive highest end units.
Had a friend buy a very expensive Class A, drove it home from the dealer and started adding water to the fresh water tank. A few minutes later they found water in all the under chassis storage areas and on the floor. Drove back to the dealer immediately, they tried telling him a pile of excuses because they tested "EVERYTHING" before he picked it up. He got the salesperson involved and tones changed. They pulled it in the shop and started looking till they found a fresh water line that was never connected - so much for checking at the plant and at the dealer. Water in tank & pump on and the pump would start pumping water till the tank was empty, being a high end unit the pump was completely quiet. Dealer dried everything out and repaired it but with what he paid this should never had happened.
The OP did everything right, what I would do now if you are not already doing it is to write and photograph EVERYTHING.
The TV's should easily be checked by plugging a lamp into the plug the TV's are plugged into. If the lamp works the TV should power on - if they still don't come on it is the TV. If the TV's do come on then check the cable/ satellite input if that is what you have, and work from there. Sounds to me like dud TV's
For the window this is a little harder, check the lower track to see if there is any debris blocking the drain holes. If it still leaks dry the window as best you can then look where the water is coming in, use a grease pen to mark the spot and take a picture so you can take this back to the dealer so they can see. Very well could be the cut out is the wrong size or the window itself is messed up.
Cannot help you with the arm but my thinking is that it is the arm as if it works partly then sounds to me like a issue with the unit.
Once you get everything fixed, and it may take a while, send a write-up to the manufacturer so they know what you have gone through and your thoughts on their units and service. It may help someone in the future but would not hold my breath. Also if you have an issue in a couple months they have a file already started on your unit.
Once you get things fixed hopefully you will have years of enjoyment from it.
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Photomike
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11/07/18 12:12pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: winterized properly?
As others have said do it yourself, many units it is a 15 minute procedure and that is taking your time.
If you paid for it give the dealer a call and ask, no harm in that. More than likely it is done right but it is hard to tell after. The low point drain will usually have some moisture in it even after blowing out, should not be a lot, like a table spoon. If you can get to your fresh water tank look at it, there should be only a very little water in it at the most.
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Photomike
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11/06/18 12:14pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: 100% Silicone vs Dicor
I used Dicor and some pure Silicone when I rebuilt the S&S everywhere in 2011. When I got home from the "buy back" this year I went over it completely. This camper has always sat outside in the weather, the Dicor is fine and the Silicone is failing. After a good cleaning of the Silicone, I will only use Dicor this time to reseal.
JMHO
That is one thing with silicone, when it fails it tends to peal and show that it is letting go. With Dicor it seems fine till you dig around then you see the areas that water can get into.
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Photomike
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11/04/18 09:43pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: Shocking mileage drop
The MPG's sound right loaded with that size of a camper.
Did your previous camper have a cab over part?
Did you have tow/haul mode on on your way home?
Try dropping your MPH and see what happens.
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Photomike
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11/04/18 09:38pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: Help!!!! Mice invasion
Bounce fabric sheets
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Photomike
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11/04/18 03:52pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: 100% Silicone vs Dicor
Should I be using ProFlex on the bottom of the frame on my shower? I tried silicone and it wiped off the next time I dried down the shower.
Many manufacturers of shower stalls and tub enclosers for home and RV's say use silicone. I have had it work great on some and then on others have had the same results as you with it peeling off in days. On one encloser I had caulked using the recommended silicone and it peeled, so I contacted the manufacturer and they stated that the shower stall needed to be wiped first with a cleaner (I cannot remember the type, I am thinking rubbing alcohol but don't quote me) to cause the silicone to get a hold on it. Did that and it worked great that was 8 years ago and it is still sealed.
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Photomike
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11/01/18 11:43am |
Truck Campers
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RE: 100% Silicone vs Dicor
I had the same experience, had some work done and I went in as they were finishing up and out came the silicone. Talked to the tech and he has been using it for 30 plus years without an issue, guaranteed it would work and when I sold the unit 5 years later is was still perfect.
Like he said there is a huge difference in arm chair quarter backs and professionals. Use what you are comfortable with. I have used silicone for years for various uses and in some situations I am fine with it, in other situations I would stay away.
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Photomike
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11/01/18 11:37am |
Truck Campers
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RE: Any thoughts on how much it'd cost to restore this rig?
Lots of good advice but the real answer is what are you willing to put into it and what do you want?
If you really want it and have spare cash go for it. If you bought a newer rig for $30,000 and did not enjoy it you have wasted the money. If you drop $40,000 into this and love it for years and have the memories of building it with your Dad and using it - priceless.
Myself if I was going to do this I would pick it up on a flat deck, power wash the engine and underside so it was clean as possible then take it to a trusted mechanic and tell him to get it running and add new tires and rims - something classy, new shocks with a bit more lift. Pull the front bumper and add somethings with some size and strength, drop in a winch and some off road lights. $15,000
Then power wash everything else inside and out so you have a clean palate to work from, pull off the graphics, shine up the outside and fill holes and replace vents, maybe ad some new graphics. Start inside with electrical, plumbing and a furnace. Add insulation and build some inner walls. $3,000 - 10,000 depending what is there and what you can do yourself.
Then start using it, finish as time and money allows. Will it be fun, mostly, will it cost, probably but it will be yours.
For more information and ideas Join other crazies :B :B We all have ideas like this!
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Photomike
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10/30/18 10:48pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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