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RE: 95 Bounder 35() looking for list of bulbs
I'm interested in those Bargman rears you have pointed out. I think that is a project for another time. I just had a local shop get the rears working right because they found a combination of ground issues and multi-function switch issues. So my rears look pretty good now and at least they work.
On those Bargman LEDs, did you have to do anything with the signal indicator solenoid to make them work properly or flash appropriately?
Your suggestion on getting the 193 lamps is spot on. Once I dug out a ladder and got up there and pulled off lenses I found out that the lamps are currently 193s.
On top of that when I went to actually replace the lamps, almost none of those that needed replacing could actually be fixed with new bulbs. So, looking for additional hints as to what kind of marker assemblies I figured out from markings that they are Peterson 108 and there are no wires from the coach to the bulb. Apparently the posts are electrified and you have to get similar lamp assemblies that will bolt onto those posts. I suppose I could have done LED, but the conventional marker lamps are so inexpensive and the application is a bolt off, bolt on, so why bother.
I appreciate the help and the follow up.
If you really want some doo-fuss to see your stop/turn lights, so they'll know you're trying to change lanes and then speed up to fill the hole. Look at these Bargman replacement flat panel LEDs. I have them on my 95 and they will get your attention.
Richard
The tail/stop LEDs will confuse the engine/transmission computer. The LEDs will not pull the stop/turn leads to ground, thus the cruse control and torque converter clutch may not function properly.
The easy cure is to purchase 2 193 bulb sockets with leads and bulbs and tie them into the stop/turn wires. There is plenty of room behind the lamp assemblies to let the 193s hang. Your turn signal flasher is heavy duty and the flash timing will not change. If you need further guidance, send me a PM and we can talk about it.
Richard
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RLS7201
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10/26/20 02:02pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: F53 suspension upgrades
Before I would spend any money on bolt-ons I would do the basics first. In other words load the coach exactly as it is when you travel with full fuel and fresh water(if you fill your tanks for travel), as well as food and clothing. Then have ALL four corner weighed and adjust your tire pressure according to the manufacturer's specs. The next would be to take it to an alignment shop, while the coach is still loaded for travel, that can deal with motor homes and get a front and rear axle alignment or a thrust angle alignment. Some shops will tell you that your rear axle is not adjustable when they DO NOT have the equipment available to set the trust angle on an RV chassis. It can be adjusted.
After you have done these things, and you still are not happy with the way the coach drives, then try some add-ons, one at a time.
Tell us how you adjust the rear thrust angle on a gas chassis with no provisions for adjustment? The spring hangers are bolted to holes in the frame, the spring draw bolt head aligns with a hole in the axle tube. There are no cams, no adjustable rods, etc.
Richard
Glad I'm not the only one. I do alignments daily. Rarely is the solid rear axle out of alignment. If it were it's very minor. Anything more and something is bent.
Thanks for jumping in dodge guy. I spent 11 of my younger years in the alignment business and still do alignment service on a call in basis and that patch shown by rgatijnet1 is just that, a patch. If the rear on our gas coaches needs adjustment then there are other problems also. Sure glad the non-professionals keep up professionals in line. :(
Richard
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RLS7201
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10/21/20 07:22pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: 95 Bounder 35() looking for list of bulbs
If you really want some doo-fuss to see your stop/turn lights, so they'll know you're trying to change lanes and then speed up to fill the hole. Look at these Bargman replacement flat panel LEDs. I have them on my 95 and they will get your attention.
Richard
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RLS7201
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10/20/20 07:02pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: F53 suspension upgrades
Before I would spend any money on bolt-ons I would do the basics first. In other words load the coach exactly as it is when you travel with full fuel and fresh water(if you fill your tanks for travel), as well as food and clothing. Then have ALL four corner weighed and adjust your tire pressure according to the manufacturer's specs. The next would be to take it to an alignment shop, while the coach is still loaded for travel, that can deal with motor homes and get a front and rear axle alignment or a thrust angle alignment. Some shops will tell you that your rear axle is not adjustable when they DO NOT have the equipment available to set the trust angle on an RV chassis. It can be adjusted.
After you have done these things, and you still are not happy with the way the coach drives, then try some add-ons, one at a time.
Tell us how you adjust the rear thrust angle on a gas chassis with no provisions for adjustment? The spring hangers are bolted to holes in the frame, the spring draw bolt head aligns with a hole in the axle tube. There are no cams, no adjustable rods, etc.
Richard
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RLS7201
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10/20/20 06:46pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Turning off the generator with the AC going?
All of the naysayers conveniently ignore RV's with automatic generator start systems that users use to keep their RVs cool when they are not there. Or am I missing something?
EXACTLY...............Do you have a degree in electrical engineering? Or just some good common ¢. GRIN
Richard
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RLS7201
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10/20/20 06:40pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Poo water
I don't believe the leak you experienced is normal. But into todays age of no quality, any thing can happen. MY 25 year old coach has never had a black tank leak or a gray tank water leak. I have experienced a couple anti-syphon trap vent failures.
Richard
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RLS7201
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10/16/20 08:21pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Years of auto park brake
The auto park brake system was used on the Chevy P32 chassis, which is some times misidentified as a P30 chassis.
Richard
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RLS7201
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10/16/20 08:10pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: 95 Bounder 35() looking for list of bulbs
Your 95 Bounder 35(?) is actually a 35U. Unique design. Opera windows, "L" couch and 60 gallon water tank in the very rear compartment. Exhibit caution when loading. Running with the water tank full (500 lbs.) will over load the 11,000 lb. rear axle.
I drew this out really quickly. Probably should have done this before. This is the interior layout of my Bounder.
Image
That looks exactly like my 32H which is 32'11.5" long.
Fleetwood built those coaches almost a foot longer than the model # would lead you to believe. So if your coach is about 35' long then it would probably be a "34P" or "34J". One of them being a side isle and and the other like yours.
At time of manufacture Fleetwood put a sticker outside, under the drivers window with some info, including model letter. The Fleetwood identification number (FIN) is also on that sticker.
Inside to the left of the drivers seat are some stickers with tire size, axle capacity and recommended tire pressure.
Inside the clothes closet door should be a 8" X 11" form with model number and letter, and a bunch of other good info.
Richard
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RLS7201
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10/07/20 12:33pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Water Heater Mixing Valve Issue
Remove the mixing valve and replumb. Remove the thermostat and replace it with a standard 140° stat. Those mixing valve systems from Atwoods were nothing but a problem from the get-go.
Richard
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RLS7201
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10/07/20 10:41am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Toilet replacement 1995 Bounder 35, not finding a fit
Wow, how did I miss your reply till now!
So, I should find a way to attach a photo, but mine is a 35, something or other. I don’t know the initial, not sure where to find it. But I have a walk through bathroom, swing door to the kitchen and a pocket door to the back bedroom. With the two closed the bathroom is the full width of the coach with closet space on the right side and bathroom on the left. If anyone knows what letter, that is, I’d love to know because I can’t find it on any of the documentation that came with the rig.
Anyway, I flashed a light down the open drain on the toilet and it seems like the drain doglegs to the right, and then I presume down. So, the hole to the black tank isn’t straight underneath the commode. I could be very wrong. Maybe I didn’t see it right when I had the drain open and was flashing my light down there.
I appreciate your great description. I’ll keep this in mind if the toilet really does biff it. So far, some elbow grease and some bleach water and the previous owner’s detritus is now gone. We’ve used the toilet many times now and it seems solid, even if it is aged.
If your 35(?) looks like this, you have a 35U
Richard
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RLS7201
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10/07/20 10:34am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: 95 Bounder 35() looking for list of bulbs
Your 95 Bounder 35(?) is actually a 35U. Unique design. Opera windows, "L" couch and 60 gallon water tank in the very rear compartment. Exhibit caution when loading. Running with the water tank full (500 lbs.) will over load the 11,000 lb. rear axle.
I suggest you use the 193 bulb for your marker/clearance lights.
193 draws 0.33 amps and the 194 bulb draws 0.56 amps. No need to generate excess heat on all that plastic.
Also, you interior lights are 1141 & 1142, depending on weather they are single or dual contact on the base. Do not replace those 1141 bulbs with 1156 bulbs or you will melt plastic. Same with the 1142, stay with the same part #. There are a few of us Bounder owners that have learn the hard way. GRIN
Better yet, think LEDs
Richard
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RLS7201
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10/07/20 10:08am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Blown engine
How many miles on your 8.1? I had 183k on my Suburban and the motor was still strong when I sold it. If you opt for a replacement engine vs a the dealer rebuild, watch what you are buying. The 8.1 is not the same as the 454, and 8.1's were built for several applications, so be sure to get one that was built for an RV application, not built for racing.
Don't think GM built any 8.1 (496) for racing. But there were a ton of 502 big blocks built for racing.
Richard
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RLS7201
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10/06/20 04:48pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Solar Panels- Another Step Toward Independence
I have dove the math many times (I’m a NABCEP certified installer), for both residential installs and RV, water pumping, etc. Calcs on an RV are very difficult to really be accurate with, since you are always in a different place and always positioned at a different azimuth. 40% might work out on paper for perfect conditions IF you always had your RV parked in the same place, at the right orientation and IF you actually tilted the panels every time you could. In reality the gain is much less than than 40%. There’s a good reason nobody uses trackers and tilt adjustments anymore in residential and commercial installs. It just makes more economic sense, if you have the space, to add more panel to make up for the losses of a less than ideal tilt (or azimuth). By all means if you don’t have the space, tilt and azimuth adjustments are about all you can do.
Titles-titles, every bodies got titles.......
My solar panel lifts controller switch is in the same compartment as my charge controller. It makes no difference where I'm at, as long as the panels are pointing south, I get about 40% increase in energy, according to the display on my MPPT controller, when I tilt my panels to the correct angle.
Richard
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RLS7201
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10/05/20 12:43pm |
Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
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RE: 200 Series HWH leveling jack Pump won't stop
When you move your joy stick, it sends a 12 volt signal to the relay mounted on or near the pump motor. Either the signal is staying on or the relay is stuck.
Richard
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RLS7201
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10/05/20 12:31pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: How to compress EMPTY air bags to remove
Vacuum.............Use an AC vacuum pump or run a small hose from the intake manifold of a gas engine.
Richard
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RLS7201
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10/05/20 12:28pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Solar Panels- Another Step Toward Independence
Tilt lifts can be helpful if you don’t have anymore space on your roof. If you have the space, just take the money you would spend on the lift and buy another panel or two. One more panel will make up for what you lose having them flat. Plus, you never have to get up there and adjust them. That’s the strategy residential installs use now that panels have done down so much in price.
Do the math. It's about a 40% increase when you tilt the panels. So to match the tilt increase you would have to add 40% more panels or more.
Richard
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RLS7201
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10/04/20 02:11pm |
Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
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RE: Solar Panels- Another Step Toward Independence
Here is one company making 12 volt solar panel lifts.
SolaRVector.
I have Keven's first design lifts and they work great. I suspect his second design lifts are even beetter.
Richard
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RLS7201
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10/04/20 01:03pm |
Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
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RE: Help with 1998 Pace Arrow Vision Transfer switch
Your 98 Pace Arrow came with a Intellitec load sheading device ( no manual switching between front and rear ACs) and a 30 amp automatic transfer switch. It looks like there was a failure and the previous owner couldn't fix it properly and kluged up the system.
Richard
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RLS7201
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10/01/20 09:13am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Domestic electric water heaters
Suburban and Atwood have both proven to be very good and highly reliable water heaters.
Good to get positive feedback !
My daughter's Attwood never has run right since the first day the bought their Jayco. It would light once, but almost never re-light until you cycled the power switch. 3 trips back to the dealer and over $100 out of pocket for "igniter adjustment" and they gave up. If they want hot water, they have to keep cycling the power switch.
Very strange.
Your dealer is incompetent. Plain and Simple. IF a Service Center has a problem with an appliance, the FIRST thing they do, is CALL the Appliance Maker and explain the problem They will walk the Tech thru various tests. IF after the tests and any replacement parts do not fix the problem they may authorize a new replacement appliance. After 41 years as a RV tech, I have found that the younger RV tech crowd(and so called supervisors) seems to think CALLING for help is not the way to go. Well, I have better ways to make my money than wasting my time trying all sorts of tests. I refuse to just replace a part unless directed by the Appliance maker after all tests are done. By calling the appliance maker, you may find out that the appliance has a known fault with a part. Not published yet. As to your Daughters Atwood(Dometic now), you don't state what year model. BUT, there is a KNOWN problem with the Atwood Water Heater Ignition modules starting about 3 years ago and ending about 1 year ago. They had hundreds of thousands of defective Ignition modules and purged what they could. Doug
Or.......your problem could be an issue with your primary thermostat. If it fails and your heater shuts off on the Emergency Cut Off (ECO) thermostat, the circuit board will lock out and not let the heater refire until you shut off the heater and turn it back on. It's a known issue.
Richard
NOT a "known" issue. I have never experianced a 180 degree lockout and then tried to see if the WH would relight without cycling the wall switch. IF the ECO trips at 180 degrees you WILL get the POP OFF valve weeping, which is usually an indication of primary tstat failure. As long as the air cavity is still in the tank. Doug
Doug I learned about the primary thermostat failure lock out on this forum. So at least two of us know about the problem and any others that read the thread. And then it happen to me while renting a space at Walmart in Kingman, AZ. New primary thermostat cured the problem.
Richard
PS: I sure was hoping that you could hook up with FMCA. Darn!
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RLS7201
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09/30/20 10:27am |
Tech Issues
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RE: 1995 Fleetwood Flair 22ft
You have a Chevy P32 chassis. Ford F53 chassis did not have drum brakes. Yes, you have the P32 independent front suspension.
That old chassis was notorious for brake hose failure. The interior of the hose would deteriorate and block fluid flow.
Richard
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RLS7201
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09/29/20 05:31pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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