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 > Your search for posts made by 'RambleOnNW' found 34 matches.

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RE: What do you do for condensation inside cabinets?

We take and run a large 60-pint dehumidifier that draws around 600 wats when in high humidity or cold locations. That is the only way to keep the humidity down to a reasonable level of 60-65%. The unit is heavy but fits well under the dinette table between the table leg and bench seat and I block it in with other gear so it doesn’t roll out. Normally we keep that dehumidifier in the garage. During our stay we have it running in the back. We only used it once this year at the end of October when it got below freezing and we had hook ups. We also have one of the small 80 watt units that uses a Peltier effect device but being small has less effect.
RambleOnNW 12/01/19 04:31pm General RVing Issues
RE: Quick question about oil changes

I run Mobil 1 EP 5W/20 in the V10 and Mobil 1 0W-40 in the Onan Gen. I will change the V10 oil at 4000 miles and the Onan oil at 50 hours no matter how long it takes. This has been up to 20 months on the V10 and 2-1/2 years on the Onan. Blackstone oil analysis on both showed no issues with either oil change. I do stick with an all-synthetic filter media on the oil filter for the V10. I run the MH and gen monthly when not in use and use Stabil in the gas.
RambleOnNW 11/24/19 12:03am Class C Motorhomes
RE: toilet treatment for black water tank

I have been using this method for years. Grey and black sensors are working great. When we go out I insure that the bottom of the black tank is covered with water. Daily we add Walex Bio-Pak and Porta-Pak capsules. After we get back I will add water to black tank so it is at least 2/3 full. I will add water to the grey tank and dishwashing soap. I then take it for the final dump and use black tank flush. Both grey and black sensors always read empty at this point. When we go out the black tank will read accurately if we stay in one place. If we drive with a partially filled tank it can slosh and read higher than it actually is. If we dump without flushing then the sensors will read whatever the previous highest level was. I can always look in the toilet to see what the black tank level is. Both grey and black tanks are 40 gal. so we have never filled them.
RambleOnNW 11/16/19 09:13pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Changes in Air Temp and Tire PSI

Cold inflation pressure refers to ambient temperature at the time you are driving not the cool of the morning. An added factor is highways with sun shining on them adds additional heating. I usually inflate my rear duals to around 76-77 psi in the morning to target a cold inflation pressure of 80 psi at drive time and that produces a hot driving temperature of 88 psi as read out by the TPMS monitor. Pressure rise is around 1.5 psi for 10 degrees F.
RambleOnNW 11/01/19 02:22pm General RVing Issues
RE: Cuts to the Senior discount coming?

The fed campgrounds already had no discount for double campsites nor extra vehicle parking fees. The places we go are apparently too primitive to have additional services that are discounted.
RambleOnNW 10/22/19 11:32am General RVing Issues
RE: how do you keep sewer tank clear

We use Walex Bio-Pak and Porta-Pak tablets. These keep the black tank contents dissolving fast and remove the odor. I then use the black tank flush after the final black tank dump to keep it clear.
RambleOnNW 10/19/19 02:08pm General RVing Issues
RE: Those with portable surge protector

We have a whole house surge suppressor in our breaker panel at home and also use the portable surge suppressor at all times. The portable suppressor is in the utility bay attached to an extension cord so always gets used when the extension cord is plugged in. Lost a minor amount of electronics years ago at home when the utility had a 6kV line fall on the low voltage line. Added a whole house surge suppressor soon after.
RambleOnNW 10/16/19 10:05pm General RVing Issues
RE: Who can be the last poster?

Error has occurred. Last.
RambleOnNW 10/07/19 07:38pm Around the Campfire
RE: Who can be the last poster?

You got bad advice, last.
RambleOnNW 07/29/19 05:44pm Around the Campfire
RE: Who can be the last poster?

Yup, last.
RambleOnNW 07/29/19 04:03pm Around the Campfire
RE: Who can be the last poster?

Mid last PDT.
RambleOnNW 07/29/19 01:00pm Around the Campfire
RE: RV.NET

Anybody remember USENET forums like alt.rv.pop-up-trailers (I think I got the name right) ?? Still around.... (but full of junk posts) https://groups.google.com/d/forum/alt.rv.pop-up-trailers
RambleOnNW 07/29/19 12:10am Around the Campfire
RE: Who can be the last poster?

I got to be last 1260% longer last time.
RambleOnNW 07/28/19 11:51am Around the Campfire
RE: Who can be the last poster?

Ah last at last.
RambleOnNW 07/28/19 06:23am Around the Campfire
RE: Who can be the last poster?

Late last. Should last for a while since east coast is snoozing.
RambleOnNW 07/28/19 01:08am Around the Campfire
RE: Had to replace Automatic Transfer Switch

I'm not a fan of the flip connectors. The transfer switch I bought looks very similar, but had a Furrion brand logo on it. The main difference I see is the instructions had me connect directly to the terminals on the contactor itself. I used crimped ring terminals. http://2manytoyz.com/hardware/solar/newhouse/transferswitch/dscn0010.jpg width=640 http://2manytoyz.com/hardware/solar/newhouse/transferswitch/dscn0080.jpg width=640 I use mine in an unconventional fashion: http://2manytoyz.com/autoxfersw.html If you're okay with those connectors, great. If not, it's easy enough to use ring terminals instead, and you won't need tape. That is a clean looking install. Your input, gen, and output are all stranded copper wire. Ours has stranded copper only for the AC line. Gen and output are solid copper wire. I'm satisfied with the flip connectors. They will go where the solid wires best fit with their more limited mobility. The flip connectors are spring loaded so they likely didn't need to be taped but their was little information available so overkill is in order.
RambleOnNW 07/26/19 02:41pm General RVing Issues
RE: Battery recommendations

I'm curious ... why do you think that you were running your previous flooded chassis battery partly discharged too much? I'm assuming that our flooded chassis battery is getting fully charged by the alternator between campsites - but we do change campsites often on RV trips. For those of us fortunate enough to be able to store our Class C RV's at home, I agree on keeping it kindof ready for use as a get-away vehicle at all times. Took a look at the log data I had. I’ve been running 84-month batteries in several vehicles and never paid much attention to them. Would replace them at 84 months with no issues. The moho chassis battery lasted only 64 months and had to use the house battery emergency start when it failed. One car did have a battery issue but it turned out the alternator was failing. Have had the chassis battery connected for a while when working on it and measuring 12.44V currently. Fully charged I remember measuring 12.7V where fully charged AGM should be 12.8V+. The electric steps + other drains are likely drawing enough current to pull the voltage down 0.1V. I haven’t measured the actual current draw. Charging chassis battery now until I disconnect it until the next trip.
RambleOnNW 07/26/19 02:00pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Battery recommendations

I have a pair of 6V Duracell AGM golf car batteries from Sams Club supporting our house operations for over 4 years now. They are still awesome. I never deal with acid boil-overs or corroded terminals. I have not touched them in the 4 year period except to manually charge them when usage is high or when in storage. With easy access terminals, even that is a breeze. https://live.staticflickr.com/7696/17305883992_baf0b47812_o.jpg width=400 I wonder how a 12V AGM battery would do in supporting the chassis. I've had an AGM battery in my 4X4 pickup for engine starting about a couple of years now. No problems so far - but it's not a "deep cycle" AGM - it's an AGM intended for starting and chassis use. I almost put an AGM starting battery under the hood in our Class C a few weeks ago, but opted instead to default to the Dark Side by installing a heavy duty liquid acid battery there - just to save a few bucks. :( The 2 12-volt AGM house batteries we have are still doing well at 8 years. They were made by Odyssey for Sears and are identical to the Odyssey Extreme which is rated for 400 cycles at 80% discharge. Usually discharged them just 30% so they still have cycles left. I am getting a better sense of how many amp hours are needed to recharge to full using a solar suitcase with a charge controller. May replace after this season if we decide to do some cold weather dry camping. Also carry an extra X2 power AGM for misc use dry camping. The chassis battery is also an X2Power AGM. It powers the electric steps as well as the chassis. I am finding I have to recharge periodically to keep it topped up. Running the previous flooded battery partly discharged killed it early before it’s rated 7 years. Why all the AGM? The southern half of the Cascadia Subduction Zone is well overdue for a megaquake so each time we go out near the vulnerable areas we are prepared to be cut off.
RambleOnNW 07/26/19 12:28pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: New Ford Gas 7.3L V8 and 10-speed TorqShift

Here's what I've been able to find in Ford's fleet document: -There is no 2020 E-series. Instead, they will have an early release of the 2021 model. -Production starts in January. -The 7.3L will come in both an "Economy" calibration, and a "Premium" calibration. I suspect the economy calibration will match the numbers for the current 6.2L in the E-series (330 horsepower). Or maybe be better still, otherwise they'd just keep the 6.2L option like they are in the F-series. So the Premium calibration has potential to be quite a bit more powerful than the V10. -The 2021 E-series does NOT get the 10-speed. It gets the 6-speed still. I'm hoping it won't take long for the 10-speed to get added. -Dual alternators (240 + 157 amp) are optional -The instrument cluster and steering wheel finally get updated to current F-series spec. Which means they are also adding Emergency Brake Assist, Lane departure warning, adaptive cruise, TPMS etc. 2020 Fleet Preview Guide https://media.ford.com/content/fordmedia/fna/us/en/asset.download.image.original.html/content/dam/fordmedia/North%20America/US/product/2021/e-series/ESeries_Interior_1.jpg width=800 That is good. The 6-speed TorqShift is used only on the F250 in 2020 so perhaps that indicates a fit issue in the E350/E450
RambleOnNW 07/25/19 09:38pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: New Ford Gas 7.3L V8 and 10-speed TorqShift

The first year of a brand new engine always seems to have it's issues. I agree with the completely. It's been 23 years since Ford made a pushrod V8. Regardless of how well it's been engineered, I suspect the production line (and suppliers) will have a bit of a re-learning curve. Looking at the video they mentioned they use elements from other engines such as valve seats from the turbo diesel. The design could be great and preproduction testing done but having every engine in the initial production run perfect unlikely.
RambleOnNW 07/25/19 09:31pm Class C Motorhomes
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