Didn't think about the overall height. Maybe a 550 would be the way to go. The price of a 550 gets up there once you add a bed etc. The reason I was looking a little bigger is I tow a trailer 95% of the time with my current setup (2009 F-350 Dually Diesel, 24' Enclosed Trailer & Arctic Fox 990). I have been looking at upgrading both the Camper and trailer. Bigger trailer and larger Chalet camper. Just thinking out loud here getting ideas
Late to the party..
I license the work 550's at 34k..they're good to 33,500 I believe. Get a pass on the RV version sorta, but you get the idea.
Most of us have stinger extensions, which limits the trailers in the 12k range anyhow. Easily within range for these rigs.
Add a heavy camper and 'stuff' (God knows, we all have lots of stuff, stuffed) and...well, it's just heavy.
I like those rigs you're looking at, but to be honest, I get tired of driving 'trucks'; the 550 is slightly better. If I had my druthers, I'd find a truck that drive like a town car and throw the camper on that....
I guess I need to understand the proper positioning for the COG over tandem axles as well as proper tongue weight.....
You're asking for a definitive answer to a vague question. The only thing the 'COG' sticker on the camper refers to is where the mark is when empty as constructed. It's a general guide line.
Put the camper on the trailer and go weight the tongue.. then you'll know. Then add all your crap...then you'll know more. It's trial and error. Not rocket science.
The rigs you see that have been successful are accomplished via good luck or school of hard knocks. End result is the same, success (hopefully) but there is no written rule for this stuff.
Take this answer in stride.. it's a Crown night...4 and counting :)
Personally, I like to be able to stop.
I offer this simple statement, as a lead in to the obviously, not so obvious. All this diatribe about 100 pounds over or under weight, fails to address the other important factors in driving. Stopping being one of them.
We've got trucks that are legal at 80,000, 105,500, etc. Even when at full legal weight, they're not anywhere near the actual max load they can carry. Axle's aren't maxed out, tires aren't, brakes aren't. Yet, this RV worlds pushes the limits, trying to squeeze out enough to get one more six pack loaded. Weight police I'm not...I find that just as ridiculous. But not taking into consideration all the differences between vehicles when comparing is a bit to simplistic I think.
The 450 pu is built heavier, including those all important brakes. Step up to a chassis model and the differences are stark.
I've had 350 p/u's, have a Chev 3500 dually; the brakes are adequate for their average loads. Running around maxed out though, they don't stop as I would like.
Keyboard jockey's can argue all day long. Makes good reading sometimes. But some of us have owned and driven these rigs, and can base their statements on reality.
Momma always said, just 'cause you can doesn't mean it's a good idea. Carry on...
Touch under 12'8". Stock tires.
Bigger is mo' better...
Remember, many 'roll-up' doors, have an actual open height less than the door dimensions, as they hang on the track. 12' won't necessarily give you 12'.
I'm leaning towards this yet wonder what thickness would be right for the weight?
Of Course I would also still use the camper legs.
Naked, that 'X' design (made from 3/4", or 23/32" plywood, can hold a maximum of 2400#'s. But painted, they can easily support up to 2950#'s. This, as determined from the manufactures adjusted paint index for customized lumber products, available on line.
You're going to hear a dozen stories about how that will never work, or plywood has no strength that direction, or it's a great idea and will support a loaded 11' camper with quad slides.
Those and a set of 4x's across each one (so that edges of the frame are supported) and your jacks would probably be just fine. And cheap. And take about 30 min to cut up. Paint, well, that's to anal for me. But it's pretty for sure.
There is a potential issue with over filling the fresh water tank. In particular if you attach a hose to the fresh water fill and the water supply has significant pressure you can "balloon" the fresh water tank since the tank vent is not of sufficient size to relieve the pressure. If it is off the truck it will, and some here have reported it, break the tank support ribs.
This is really operator error as the manual explicitly warns about this.
We almost always use ours off the truck when not winter camping. Manual describes the support required for off truck storage/use. It's easy and we like the easier access and less sway.
You will be fine for your proposed use with the camper as it is. However, if you want to make some modifications you can get some inspiration from this post which is for an AF 1150 though much of the advice would apply to a 990
Full time winter camping modifications
brholt makes a good point. The mod's some have made are fantastic, innovative, useable. But like all things, you need to look at your actual use and requirements. You don't need to build and prepare for a journey to arctic if you'll never camp more than a couple days and you're on road somewhere...which is where you'll probably be if you're dragging a trailer with sleds.
Even when we head to the 'mountains', up logging roads, in the winter, you're only going as far as it's maintained...and where there is other traffic. I imagine your snoparks are similar to other areas...there is other traffic around, even on the quietest of days.
Tongue-n-cheek..... how do you ride without mountains???? Come west my friend. A view to behold...
just wondering what to do to camper to keep some of cold air out
I try and keep the door closed, but beyond that, nothing. As opposed to someone trying to stay in their camper for weeks in the cold, most of us that snowmobile only go for a few nights at a time. So burning a little extra propane or gas for a gen is not an issue.
Condensation is an issue. Keeping a window/vent ever so slightly cracked helps. If we get to much on the windows, we'll just use a towel to wipe them, then hang it in the bathroom with the door shut, vent open.
Taking a camper off in the snow is problematic. We unload most of the time during the year, but not sledding. I can only imagine waking up to a couple feet of fresh. Then dealing with lining up again, after digging down, etc. Plus, as said earlier, wind blowing under is a factor.
Winter camping is the best bar none; we camp all year, as much as we can, and still can't wait to head out during the winter months.
I plan on using my AF 990 this winter when going snowmobiling any suggestions for keeping warm?
Wear boots and gloves... racing on the trails to the hills is brutal.
Ummm... suggestions: enjoy it, don't over think it and bring good food.
What exactly are you wondering about?
If the ball is at or behind the rear wall of the camper, you can't turn short enough while going forward to hit.
Blanket statement... and not a correct one.
Going forward, wheel locked, many trucks can turn sharp enough to get a 90 degree angle to the trailer. If the trailer doesn't have a tongue pivot point at least 1/2 the width of the trailer away, I promise you, it will hit.
I'm running a 48" stinger... and had to stretch the tongue on this trailer quite a ways. Still tight, but works fine. Jack knifing..?? you best be on your game and be aware, as these pictures show the angle just going forward.
The de-icers are deadly; I ride two, three times a week during the season. Camper is on more often than not, so a good wash on it often is surely a good thing.
But I think the killer is the under carriage. I've walked the steps of a man who's rig lived it's life driving through the salts, and it's brutal.
When I get home, I back up on blocks that I leave out all season. After the entire rig is parked (trailer and truck all get up on the blocks), I run a traveling sprinkler under it. Takes 6 to 8 hours and then shuts it's self off. I've tweaked the spray pattern just a bit, so it hits the entire undercarriage quite well.
The only actual 'extra work' each time, is pulling the hose back down the driveway before I back up and setting the sprinkler back on. Takes a minute or so.
I leave the blocks in the drive; the rear blocks for the truck are set in a hair so the trailer can pass over them. I just weave the trailer past the front blocks when first backing in. I'm sure there's better options out there, but this is the lazy way.
As far as the camper, we don't do anything else special. The WH stays lit throughout the season, there is a small electric heater in the bathroom that stays on low while plugged in. We keep it fully stocked with food minus the fresh produce, etc, that we might want. Because most of our over night trips are focused on sledding, I can go several trips overnight without worrying about dumping or re-filling the water.
Winter camping is the best; parking it just isn't an option for us.
Sooooo, don't hyper extend the jacks. Just add a block of wood.
When we quick camp, I often have to ride the front end up blocks to level...6, 8" sometimes. My front jacks won't reach the ground then. I just stick one of the 6x8's I carry under each jack. Bada bing..
Dear God, why?
This is one of those things in life that sounded good to you inside your head, and probably made sense, up until the thought came outside your head.
LOL... No, can't imagine it, can't think of a compelling reason why a dealer would, and wonder what the big deal is for traveling 6hours....that's what most RV'ers do anyhow...travel. Now you have an excuse for a road trip. Like anyone needs one.
.... Here's the rub, the State will register the camper with an "ownership in doubt" title. They give you a license plate but you have to wait 3 years for a title. UFFDA
Who'd a thought...
I've been following this thread with bewilderment; sort of like everyone's talking and no one's listening. Makes good entertainment.
Go get git it done... I think you have the answer; again.
This post to be followed with more advice and astonishing facts of the internet.
Awwwww shucks...what a cutie.
A warm rub behind the ears, a warm heart in return, unconditional love given every day. A dog is the ultimate teacher of all that is good. So sorry to hear of your loss. So grateful that you had each other and that you caught all that he had to give...
God bless my friend.
We needed a bit more storage for food; let's face it, our 'wardrobe' consists of clothes than can be folded, scrunched and layed on. We really don't need a closet. Or two. Or three.
The closet next to the fridge was in need of a little adjustment. Shelves.
First, let's clear the air; I hate finish carpentry. Dovetail joints are neat, I like looking at them, glad people enjoy it. Staining, sanding, fitting, putty and all...you can have it. We all have our niche in life...this ain't mine.
Threw together some simple shelves. The sides of the closet were typical thin luan, so I added some 3/8" ply to each side. They give the shelves something much beefer for the shear of the screws for the glides. Those panels are glued (panel adhesive) and screwed at the edges.
The shelves are dadoe'd into the frames, glued and pinned. No, I didn't use any putty over the staple holes. The nerve..
Next, I fit the shelves and hung the hardware. Easy peasy.
Some Danish oil, a few coats of spray on Poly, wire wool scrub and back together.
NOW, I've got a bigger pantry.
We bought a forth wire rack for the existing slide out. The AF's come with three, but as you can see, 4 fit fine and increase the storage that much more.
I figure at an avg of 14 oz per can of food, x 665 cans I can fit in the new area, I've added approx. 585# to my weight. I'm happy to announce that it's all in front of my completely irrelevant COG sticker. We're good to go.