Wow, your husband is a good guy. Kids gotta learn about poo at some point.
Am I the only one who gags while dumping? Just thinking about all that poo in the slinky tube just about makes me puke, but someone has to do it. Especially after a long trip and everything is full.
Probably not.. but it always cracks me up watching people dump.
Gloves and all... holding the pipes with two fingers.. then using the same gloves to wrap up the water hose, shut the water valve off, etc.
The funniest part seems to be those that are the most obsessed with keeping the poo away are the worst cross contamination violators.
God gave us soap and water. Works wonders.
All makes great entertainment though.
Let's actually think about this... obviously, I've changed my mind. It's still open for discussion.
...... With that old stereotype came beat-up old pieces of **** that were probably abandoned, caught fire or fell and broke up, while they were off the truck.....
.... When checking in, some campgrounds go out of their way making it very clear about not removing the camper..... Trying to "reason" with anyone seems impossible these days......
What is their reasoning by telling you no? I'm curious.
Over the years, I've read (haven't really 'heard' this anywhere) that these regulations are/were put into place in case of 'emergency', or because someone might abandon the camper. Reading some of the what if's in this thread and others, makes me want to point out the obvious.
Seriously, if someone wants to abandon or dump an RV, do you really think they're going to bother registering for a site, pay a fee, and leave it there? as opposed to driving up the nearest fire road and dumping it? Dirt bags are lazy and cheap. Cheap would mean not paying additional fees. Fear of getting caught would lead most to not want to be seen (registering....driving another vehicle with a plate on it...etc). It boggles one's mind with the 'what if's' that people come up with.
Need to get out of a camp ground in a hurry because of an emergency....that's another wild one. Like all the RVer's are quick with hooking up their trailers, etc, but TC's are slow. First, clearly not true...I spent many moments wasting away time watching good people spend inordinate amount of time hooking up trailers. Dear God, shoot me now. And then the flip is, if it's that big a hurry... you're all going to leave it there anyhow. What, it makes a difference if a 5ver burns up as opposed to a TC? WTH??
This stuff cracks me up. Especially when ones undies get all wadded up because others just don't see their point of view. You're right, most of us don't see it. And there's a reason. We think it's stupid.
Happy TCing... on or off :B :p :S
I had mine off twice in the last 11 days and both in CA, one was a state park in the Redwoods. It's got a plate, I pay insurance and it has a title. I'd call it an RV eith that. If other states don't agree, I'll kindly not use those facilities (we boondock mostly, not a camp ground kind of family) or visit those states IF...it became a problem. Just like my TC covers my truck plate...it's legal in my state and my TC is plated. I knkw for a fact our state doesn't (or shoukdn't) give tickets to vehicles that donlt require a front plate....if they are complying with the original states regulations.
I'm buying a boat and plan to take my TC off often. Will also do in any place I visit.
You rebel you...
Many campgrounds BAN removal of a TC from the truck and more are or are being required to by state or local laws etc. More and more common! A TC is not and actual RV as defined by most state etc laws/rules/codes because it has NO wheels or capability of rolling on roads or being moved quickly or reasonably if need be for any reason. Once an TC is removed from the truck, it becomes a stationary planted structure that's not removable by towing and doesn't meet state or local codes.
I know for a fact that the axles and wheels must be left on any and all RV units and a current license/registration must be attached in Michigan when in any CG or public land as I was on the board of directors for 9 years for a very large RV CG and Resort and the state laws were enforced and fines issued for non-conformance by the county sheriff. Seen it many times! Sometimes a warning was given first to comply within X time or the warning would become a citation and the CG got a copy. Simply put, a TC off the truck/carrying vehicle not being on the owners property, a dealer's property, a repair facility, licensed storage facility, etc is deemed to be an abandoned item and NOT an RV because it is NOT a VEHICLE! Just a structure!
Also, so many old or dilapidated/broken jack systems etc TC's have been abandoned in CG's and/or on state or federal land usually with the serial no. identifications having been removed or totally obliterated to prevent owner identification. Many states didn't or don't issue required titles or registration for TC's. Then the CG owner or local Gov or state or federal Gov has to pay the cost for removal after going thru the long process of getting full authority or court approval to do so. In a CG, this renders the campsite space unusable and an eyesore until removal is actually done.
AS a constant TC owner for over 50 years now and on our 7th TC, I fully agree with not allowing a TC to be removed in a CG or on public land as it's only an RV when on the carrying vehicle. A ~100 sq ft box with no wheels simply sitting on the ground can not be classified as an RV nor an occupiable living structure by humans in any U.S. state I'm aware of. Doesn't meet the codes and check yours!
Well then, I think this answers everything. Discussion over.
Except for.... in some places it is a licensed vehicle.
It's an "eyesore" in who's opinion?
Please... nanny state revisited and nothing is black and white, even if one wishes it to be.
I'm not understanding why you need to take the TC off, but if you always do, seems like a trailer would be a better choice.
If that isn't possible, then a different campground. I don't think education applies since the campground obviously knows they come off, but just doesn't want people to do it there.
We almost always remove ours in the 'other than snow' months. Drop the camper...easier in and out for us and better for launching the boat. Sometimes we'll hit the water twice in the same day, or two or even three different bodies of water in the same trip. So much easier without camper. And 9 times out of 10, we're way faster dropping and hooking than the average trailer.
We had a couple of campgrounds that said no.. Last one was down at Odell. Specific campground restrictions said no removing; us and three others did anyhow. Not sure the reasoning and no, we won't be back.
Mentioned uship is just net broker with no insurance and no liability.
It is your obligation to check who will bid on your transport and select reputable carriers from hillbillies who drive 1981 F250.
Chances are that when F250 breaks - you will have to collect the camper from the side of the road in the middle of nowhere.
This is exactly what I'm trying to avoid. Can anybody reccomend a shipper?
I think his point is, do your homework on Uship. It works; we use it often, but you have to do your homework...which takes all of about 2 minutes. Lowest bidder is not always what you are looking for.
Shippers have ratings, easy to read, and listings of what they offer (insurance, MC #'s, etc).
It's competitive and the prices are low. It's always a debate for me whether to use it or make a road trip out of it. I've shipped campers, trailers, heavy equipment etc., on it.
I am in the market for a Metal Building, but I would be a little hesitant dealing with West Coast Metal Buildings INC.
Consumer Complaints and Reviews
BBB Business Review
west coast metal buildings complaints
Just to clarify, there was a huge problem with "Northwest Metal Buildings" out of Hillsboro and they are not West Coast. West Coast has had their problems, but probably nothing like the sub installer (Northwest). I suggest that many have written 'reviews', such as on Yelp, and flagged the wrong supplier. Kinda like the link you pasted that is for Northwest. Just FYI, West Coast cut them off years ago.
Shop around; the industry is a bit flakey. It's low ball for sure, but as in most of life, you can have two of the three; speed, quality or price. Pick your poison.
West Coast (West Coast Metal Buildings)is just outside of Salem.. probably one of the biggest suppliers of the inexpensive car ports.
I couldn't even think about buying the materials for less than they will show up and install the entire thing.
They work; sometimes ugly, sometimes they fit the area. A bit utilitarian. We're probably going to throw another one up for the camper. Great deal/value for the dollars spent.
Interested also... I've had the motors apart, not much to them. Got one that grinds loudly and can't figure it out. Going to send that one back.
I suspect it's coil rod (Acme thread) or similar, and like you, assume it's pretty straight forward. Take pictures... because I can't offer any thing about what to expect.
Agree; the manual on these things is brutal, even for those that spend their life wrenching/swinging hammers, etc. Had to do it once; it just laughed at the Hilti impacts. Never tried a pneumatic either.
Nice post.. glad the weekend worked out for you.
RV's are actually very light, but common ground pressure ratings are not always as high as folks think. With that, a pad doesn't have to grow very much to make a huge difference
Some simple figures to use for common ground pressures;
Virgin soil 22 psi
Asphalt 29 psi
Compact soil 43-51 psi
Compact gravel 58 psi
Your 4" pad offers 12.5" of bearing; a 5" pad offers 19.5". Dividing the load by 4 isn't very practical; I'll use 1/2 that for a 5k camper.
2x4-12" 60 psi
2x6-12" 34 psi
2x10-12" 23 psi
2x12-14" 16 psi
I throw this out there as a start for grasping how little it takes to increase ones bearing, especially over poor conditions.
Change the formula up for what you're comfortable with. Camper weight divided by what you consider the worst case scenario per leg (front legs usually carry more weight than rears), then that 'weight' divided by the size of pad.
i.e. 2500/19.5 (for a 5" pad) = 128 psi. For a 2800# camper with a factor of 2, the same pad would be 72 psi.
Figures rounded; generalizations offered for the purpose of getting through life. Face it, this isn't life safety stuff.
ok, i get it, it's not happening. you are all correct that it's not within my budget and way over my head. thanks for the advice, appreciate the input and reality check.
Dreams are ok...it's the wake up that gets in the way.
You said 'reality check'... lol.
Hmmmmm... looking at the pic, I think I have a little sanding and paint touch up coming again. Winter roads are harsh on our stuff.
Flatbeds; keep it simple.
on my AF1150, you can squeeze past the bathroom and get in, but you'd better be skinny:)
Different versions of skinny I guess..
I'm not skinny by any definition and I have no problem getting in the opening, loading items (grocery's, etc) hitting the head, grabbing a drink, without opening the slide.
Look in the fuse box under the hood driver's side fender well for a separate fuse for trailer/camper connector.
Verify in the owner's manual if you have one. Some earlier Fords had them under the dash.
^^^^ This.. There are two fuse boxes; the one under the hood on your year truck has the trailer fuses in it. It's in the manual. I think the turn/brakes are in position F and G.