To answer the question; sometimes, but rarely.
I've got 20 something trailers. Only one has WD. My larger sled trailer is fairly heavy, and on the camper with a 48" truss, yes, I use it. Even when the camper is off and I'm towing it short, I like how it smooths out the ride.
For what you're doing Jim, no, I wouldn't. Just no ROI for the effort and money.
Thanks for the responses. Just from going from what I have read on the internet it seemed that Northern Lite was the best for winter but reading the responses here I see that Bigfoot and Citation may be better. Glad I asked. I have never heard of Citation until this thread and tried to google it but couldn't find much but will keep looking.
I live in Colorado. We do get a lot of snow but the temperature does stay above 0 Degrees Fahrenheit for the most part.
lol, you do understand that this is still the internet???
Lot's of choices out there.
The good old chain threads..
Always carry them, use them often. Have sets of chains for the trucks, sets of Z-cables for the trucks, sets of std cables for the trailer.
Someone mentioned the law; Washington and Oregon are similar in law but very different in enforcement. Washington law requires (when "chains required") any rig over 10k or with a trailer, to chain up...4x4, AWD, or not. BUT, it is not enforced. Clearly; just watch the sledders running past the check points on the way to the hill on any given snow day. Oregon is more of a stickler and drag chains are mandatory.
I love drag chains.. and experience trumps wishful thinking and arm chair theories.
Chains are great, but heavier, slower to put on and slower travel. Cables are my typical go for. Just one set on the rear; dual chains are a huge PITA and I can't see any return on the investment on the road.
I've had great luck with the Z's. About 100 bucks a set, and they have replaceable links. And, super quick to put on. HINT: carry a 5x7 cheap tarp. Rarely does one get to put iron on while in dry snow.
Here is what has worked for us.
at about 0 degrees the main water line from the pump to the kitchen/water heater would freeze. I installed a computer fan that now directs heat to the area, no more problems. Our tanks are heated.
We have been in temperatures to 15 below. At 15 below we call it quits. Its not worth it and at at temperature below 10 below our propane regulator freezes and the game is over we go to a motel or home, whichever is closer. Yes, we have cold weather gear but its emergency use only.
As long as we have propane, which in 0 degree weather our 30# tank lasts 3 days, all systems are operating as they should. I carry a spare 5# tank. If our furnace malfunctions, I carry RV anti freeze that I would pump into the system, drain the water tanks and the holding tanks asap with RV antifreeze. If you cannot find any other place to dump, virtually all waste water treatment plants have an disposal dump that RV's can use.
I think the idea of trying out your camper at home is a good one.
This is a GREAT post..
No... you do not have to do anything other than...use it. They could care less about the weather.
Generator tents are like Doggie clothes... for folks that think everything is like them; wimpy.
Oh no you di int......Last year's thread was awesome just like every thread here! Lol
Oh my... interesting how sensitive folks are if they don't hear what they want or one doesn't agree with them.
Had to go read the thread; experience apparently does not trump legal jargon. Your rabble rouser you...
This reminds me of sledding topics... guys spend literally hundreds or even thousands of dollars shaving weight.. ounces here, a pound there. Instead of just getting in better shape and losing 5 or 10 lbs.
Cracks me up and makes good conversation.
Not to mention the liability issue. Anybody attempting that had better be certified with lots of insurance.
I always enjoy reading threads like this. It's not rocket science folks. There are a lot of very capable people doing repairs/mods, etc all the time. I offer up that most people that dig into a project such as that discussed here, have a knowledge and skill base a bit beyond the person who hires someone to change a light bulb, change their oil, build their house.
Granted, most people at home depot probably shouldn't be. But they haven't usually acquired the tools and where with all to even get a truck stripped to the frame. Different levels of general skill. Welding is a skill. It's an art. But it's really common too.
Certified??? Lot's of insurance?? unless it's a business, I suggest not. Seriously, when is the last time you found a requirement for a "certified welder" in a frame and body shop???
Do you find your rig too top heavy with it sitting on top of the flat bed? If I upgrade trucks I was thinking about building the bed to have the camper sit on the frame for a lower center of gravity.
You will not have much room between the top of the cab and the bottom of the overhang if you set the TC on the frame. Maybe none at all!
I have 4-5 inches on my f350. Is the 450 and 550 cabs taller?
No, and, no. Granted it's a taller load than the typical utility box, etc, but most of the weight is the truck and equipment/stuff in the boxes. I was rolling through South Dakota last year. Watched/saw the end results of 1/2 dozen blow overs due to the winds. By comparison, I was solid as a rock, albeit, slowed to 55-60 instead of 80.
Fact is, TC'ers aren't driving a sports car. And shouldn't expect to corner like one either.
I'm pretty sure the cab's on my 550's are the same as my current/past 350's. Never measured, but can't imagine why a change considering manufacturing costs.
Biggest complaint I have is my short wheelbase, not the side to side sway. I was looking for a 200, but this thing came along at a killer price and set up way to nice to pass. It is smoother with a trailer for sure, but not disappointing anymore than any other set up.
Rolling light with the boat;
26k or so.. Have another 7k available. Room for more Crown :B
Contact Randall at Host for an option sheet with MSRP prices. We are getting 3x160w solar, Fantastic Fan instead of Heki, Full wall cab over wardrobe, Prewire only for TV's and some additional modifications to the umbilical connections.
No one other than Lance is using cab over struts - I'm not sure any of the structures from other manufacturers were designed for an underside load. The Host camper height is 9.5' if you include the AC - Do you want store or carry items up that high on the roof? Rearview camera is a $900 MSRP option.
Your F350 will be over GVWR and close to rear axle capacity with the Mammoth. If you also plan to tow behind your setup, you need a bigger truck. I suggest skipping the F450/4500 and going to a F550/5500.
Randal can say what he wants, Bedlam has researched this camper thoroughly and when he tells you that a 550/5500 is what you need to carry this camper safety and comfortably you should listen to him and not your pocketbook.
No offense but Bedlam can say what he wants. I will listen to the guy that works at the factory. Maybe Bedlams does weigh 6k. But everybody packs differently and gets diff options. Either way I didn't expect this kind of anger and hostility, I have better things to do and I wouldn't want to be responsible for someone getting upset and having a stroke.
Once again, my public education is failing me. I can't read anything in this that is angry or hostile. Dammit, I miss all the good stuff.
Or perhaps I'm just not sensitive enough. Better tighten up the panties...
Bedlam isn't a salesman... that's the difference, I believe, that was being emphasized. Just good, useful, food for thought. Based on experience and reality.
Not winter sports, two nights or more, yes, the camper comes off.
Like backing a trailer..a little practice goes along way. I'm with some of the others here; it's off and blocked in about 10-15 min. Actually loads back on quicker most of the time, as we're not dealing with 'leveling'.
There aren't any AF dealers in Seattle. THey are way north, in Everett, and way south, in Tacoma.
Ha, the major airport is Seattle. For the record, you seem to think "way" is less than 45 minutes drive. Most of us think that's close.
lmao.. beat me to it. Been to LA recently? Everything here is close.
I have never owned a Ford or GM diesel. But, I have become an expert on both of them through the internet.
I an just jesting with the BS in my first paragraph. When you read several of the post, they too are just BS. I would ask anyone reading this thread to ask someone that makes a post about a given brand of truck if they have ever owned one, especially if they are posting negatives. It has been my experience that most people will be very defensive with what they have. Some people are so biased, they have only owned one brand of truck.
About a week ago, I realized from experience that ride and load capacity wise there are so many factors to consider.
I have two trucks:
A 1996 2500 2WD SRW Extended Cab long bed diesel. I added one lief to the spring pack, it has no overloads other than the bottom, but does have airbags and 19.5 tires.
My second truck is a 2004 3500 4WD DRW Dodge diesel Quad Cab. The '04 has stock suspension which includes upper and lower overload springs, and stock tires.
Empty, the '96 rides like a covered wagon, and the '04 rides like one of my previous Cadillacs. This is not an exaggeration. In reading the posts through the years, I would have thought the 3500 would have given the rough ride.
Last week, I rode in a 2016 Ram 3500 SRW 4WD short bed Mega Cab. It had only the lower overloads and stock tires. The main leaf pack looked the same as my '04, with the exception the lower leaf appeared engaged with no load in the bed. The ride was as bad as my '96, maybe even rougher. I have rode in a 2004 3500 4WD DRW quad(?) cab GMC completely stock. It rode about the same as my '04.
I am making this post to point out that you can only say how smooth a truck of any size or manufacture rides if you have ridden in it. You can speak in very general terms, but ... There are simply too many factors to consider to generalize.
You're not biased enough to be worth reading....lol.
Always get a kick out of these threads. Someone looking for the 'perfect' truck and everyone jumping in with the answers based on....limited experience.
Until this past year, we've ran Chev, Dodge and Fords, both gas and oil runners. I of course have opinions,thoughts,experiences; dare I say more than most. More miles driven, more repairs performed and paid for, more attention paid to the bottom line and reality and not being "defensive" about a choice.
They all work. Even the "oh my God, stay away from..." seem to get down the road ok. Buying used is a **** shoot more to do with the previous owner than the actual rig.
I think the advice mkirsch gives is great; don't get mired in details. Find something you like and see if it has the quality's that are important to you. They are not all the same, but the details will suffocate you.
We're down to 5 light/med duty trucks (under 35k). I'd tell you all the truth, but it wouldn't mean anything. It's the internet after all.....
bb_94401..... what a fantastic post.
The best and worst parts of forums; digging through all the information and trying to figure out what blowhards are spouting vs facts from those knowledgeable in their subject.
Oh, and little life lessons in common sense wisdom. Lot's of that.
Priorities.. again, a well articulated post with levity and reality slid in. Thanks.
Reason #42 why I hate balls..
No questions; it's latched or it's not.
Glad it worked out well for you...
What's all that dirty white stuff on the trailer tongue by the jack?
Are you serious...?
Oh, never mind, I see you're from Tennessee ..... my bad.
It's S N O W..
Your safety chain hooks are hooked up wrong.Should hook up from bottom so if tr. comes loose hook will rotate into slot.Try it and you will see how it works.(have done some heavy rigging in years gone by)
Good call. We train the guys to hook back and up also. And we've found that there are less chains bouncing out/coming unhooked (even with 'safety latches').
Reason #42 why I hate balls..
No questions; it's latched or it's not.
Glad it worked out well for you...
Nothing is foolproof. I had a driver hitch up a twelve ton trailer behind one of our tandem dump trucks with the pintle hitch upside down. All that kept it on was the flimsy little safety catch. He used the jack to raise the trailer up and into the hitch from the bottom side.
^^^ lol, boy is that a true statement. I had a guy argue with me once that the pintle on the transfer truck was upside down. He couldn't wrap his mind around how it worked.
What is that contraption? I know what a pintle hitch is but that looks sketchy at best!
^^^it's a dirty, well used, WD hitch. Should I paint it or what? I sure don't want anything sketchy following me around...