SAME THING IS HAPPENING ON MY 2012 WOLFCREEK 850 LB I HAVE CALLED NORTHWOOD ABOUT FIXING IT AND THEY SAID ITS UP TO MY DEALER.WELL MY DEALER DIDNT BUILD THE CAMPER,GOT THE RUN AROUND FOR THE 7TH TIME .NORTHWOOD IS JUNK TELL EVERY 1 TO BEWARE.MINE IS NOT SAFE TO HAUL.AND NOT PAID FOR YET UNREAL DONT KNOW WHAT TODO.
Yelling and poor punctuation make for sore eyes.
Ok, so did you take it to the dealer yet? I dare say, when my new trucks have warranty work needed, I don't take them to Detroit.
And if you didn't pay for it, isn't that theft?
Thought for the day: Breath in.... breath out.... repeat as needed.
so the screws are going into the aluminum frame?
My worry with guides has always been the possible side forces exerted on the jacks while they are in their extended length.....................................
Just to be clear, I don't ram the thing home at 10 mph. But it does jostle it a bit, but I dare say no more sway than when it's up on jacks and people are walking around in it.
.............BTW: We rolled through your area yesterday and are now on the dry side of the mountains.
One of the great parts of living here; 25 min and we're on top heading to that wonderland. Hope you have a great weekend.
I think we're going to grab lawn chairs on Monday afternoon and pull up a cooler of drinks, sitting on the overpass in NB here watching the circus return from the 3 day. LOL, at the mess at Exit 31 for the massive 'last' stop as the city folks headed to the 'mountains'.
To ignore the OP's question/s is simply hijacking his thread. To guess without knowing, without stating it is a guess is giving misinformation.............
lol, ya don't say...
Love this forum, lot's of good info here. But dear lord, it is so full of narcissistic folks (not always a bad thing) who only want an excuse to post pic's of their stuff and tell people about what they want to do...without every actually comprehending the OP's question.
BTW, a well stated response Wayne (your first post).
when you attached them with the final screws, what were you screwing into?
I love the idea and compliment you on the great work, but before I try it, I just worry about what those screws are going into?
A quick phone call to Northwood confirmed what I thought; frame rail (tubing) runs along the bottom edges. After a quick explanation of what I was wanting to do, it was a real quick 'go ahead, no problem' response.
RC...I am with 2009...what are the screws going into??? And I don't see unless you really cleaned it up any sealant squishing out of the screw holes..I do see the black along the top edge.
Doing the rebuild on my TC I cannot get over how much "GOO" is used..it just makes me feel something is missing on your build very nice build. That certainly is a good solution to your flatbed. Those guides are sweet!
I wasn't concerned about filling every hole with goop. Water runs down hill, looks for the easiest route, and the thing doesn't sit in a bath tub. And it's not screwed into wood.
I understand you're initial thinking, but the chance of water wanting to follow the screw past the friction of the threads instead of following gravity for a free fall to the bottom of the rail didn't strike me as probable. So, I didn't worry about it.
Thanks for the nice words.
I don't use physical guides on my truck deck but use the center line reference method to get the camper loaded evenly on the truck. Except for blocking in the front against the headache rack, I have not needed anything else. Does your camper sit on a mat? Mine sits on 3/4" horse stall mats and does not shift.
lol, well I didn't 'need' anything else either. But this was a way to massively increase the speed with which to load. And no mats either; the thing doesn't move once in. Sits on the steel bed (which, btw, I'm not a huge fan of. I like wood infilled flatbeds a whole lot better, but I built this bed for the TC and sleds, for another truck, and the steel serves a needed purpose).
We TCer's spend a lot of money on these things, and most try and keep them 'nice'. Hence, even if one is fairly comfortable and capable, loading is a slow process just out of the act of being careful. I assure you, this has made an already fairly comfortable task for me, a whole lot easier and faster.
I'm wondering if I should install a 2" ball to the extension so the stock coupler could attach to it. If nothing else it would hold the extension in place while I install the hitch pins.
I would simply weld it to the top of the square tubing as I wouldn't have a way of holding the nut inside the tube.
What say the fort???
Don't see the need. Have you got it so the front could lay on the ground, slide the rear pin in, then pivot up the front for the second pin? Might need to shave/angle the rear of the tube for that (for the pivot).
Shear on two 5/8" pins is massive... but then I'm no engineer. But Torklift I think have a few look at their stuff, and 2 pins seems to be adequate for their loads...
Once the wife and I decided that we were going to use the camper off the truck....a lot, I took a look at easing my work load and worry factor. Not much of a worrier to start with, so maybe it's just lazy..
Our flatbed already had some angle on it, which was kept in place with drop pins (loose bolts). The angles worked in one position for loading the camper and when switched in position (they had sloped angles on one end) they acted as guides for the snowmobiles when we used the rig for a sled deck. That wasn't that often, so I figured I could do another work around for that issue later..or not.
The AF is typical of most, it's built to sit. Soft materials on all the edges.
Had to remedy that. I figured taking the camper in and out, 10, 15, 20 times a year would wear that out in no time. Sure enough, I'd eventually think about drinking and smash a corner to hard or something. Couldn't have that.
Got some angle, drilled it out, countersunk holes for obvious, later, reasons, painted it.
Had to get a mock up for the corners.. grabbed a handy set of saw horses and..
Temporarily screwed them on..
And tacked the corners.. Then welded them up. Three sides is all I needed.
Then attached them;
I later caulked the upper edge...keeps debris out and looks cleaner. I'm a Sika fan for those detailed interested.
I changed out the angle on the flatbed for something a bit taller, and I tightened up the tolerance between them. Screwed them down;
When loading the camper, I keep the controller in my hand. Back the truck up...line up is as simple as sighting down the mirrors to check overall alignments, out the back window for the bed shot;
When I'm close, I just back up; steel to steel, the rails line up each other easy.
Once 'in' the slot, it's back up until it stops solid at the headache rack. There, I had fabricated and installed a highly sensitive and incredibly forgiving, block of wood. It works really well. When I feel the solid 'thud', I know I'm pretty much as far as I should go and stop the truck.
She's a snug fit, which makes it easy for the final tie down with the derringers. Always in the same location, give or take an 1/8"...maybe.
You can see above, I carry 4x material stacked next to the boxes. Those are for setting the rig on the ground, discussed in different thread "Linky for Arctic Fox off camper support"
I carry longer material on the other side (a couple of 4x6's) just in case and because I can...for what I have absolutely no idea.
I haven't actually timed us for loading, from a dead start. Guessing 10 minutes at a relaxed pace. And that includes winding up cords, water, etc. Yes, it's faster leaving it on the truck, but that wouldn't serve what we want.
Thought for the day: words have meaning...that's why I use them.
I would lower down as close to the ground as I could, where do you carry all that lumber when you travel? 4x6 is overkill 4x4 would be fine. Have you seen the plywood x's that lay under camper when traveling and slot together when needed?
Seen, made, used... but hardly adjustable, and they don't catch the edges of the camper as needed.
But we're on the same page on overkill...those are 4x4's. Look for the pictures in the next thread for the location of the wood..the 4x4's. They tuck up next to the boxes, stacked three high on one side.
In the summer, we fish and ride bikes. Fishing for us is with a boat, and we nary ever moor the boat. It's even common for us to change lakes during the day, so we're leaving the camp site in the AM, return for lunch maybe (or nap....) and then head out again. Doesn't matter, no agenda ever, but keeping it easy is key to us.
Skip the debates of whether one should, could or won't use their camper off truck. And skip the long beat up debate about AF's off the camper. We do this for two reasons; manual says to and the end result is a much more stable and comfortable camper to us (when off the truck).
Did this last year, just getting around to writing something up.
Whatever system I came up with, it needed to be simple, easily adjustable, and easy to carry. I realize that most truck campers have a serious storage issue. I can't answer that, as everything is a compromise. To load this in the camper/truck would take away room for something else or be to big a hassle for some. But it works for us.
The stands are set to easily adjust. Within seconds. No, they aren't powder coated, waxed or X-lined. In fact, I think the coil rod still has some manufacturing oil in some areas. The wood bases are way to big for what's needed and I'm probably going to cut them down a couple of inches in each direction. But it was easier for me to start with something a bit larger and adjust down. The size was not for bearing; it was for keeping the units vertical during set up.
Started with a small plate and piece of pipe. A small weld and some holes for bolts.
Couple of temp screws to lock it in place;
And some small through bolts for the finish;
The other half is a piece of coil rod welded onto another plate, and then a couple of wings welded on;
This is how they go together. Rocket science it ain't;
Set up is easy. When we get to our site, I dump the boat, back in, dump the camper and start to lower it. I lower it all the way to the level we want it, then quickly level it up. While I'm holding that button getting the thing to lower, I'm pulling the 4x's I carry out, spread out the base plates and get the coil rods out. The base plates we carry on the flatbed outside under the wings. The 4x4's carry along side the boxes on one side (4 @ 5') and the coil rod tops carry inside one of the boxes. I easily have those items out, three sets on each side, before the camper has gotten down to the ground.
Once I get the camper close enough to level for us, we put the 4x's in the saddles under the camper.
With a quick twist, we turn each nut until the 4x is at the base of the camper. There is not measuring, no guessing. Just hand twist the nut. Coil rod is quick; one could spin the nut from one end to the other in a few seconds.
This picture is exaggerated for the purpose of the posting;
And, it's on;
At a site, the way it should be;
I've got another thread "Linky to edge protection"(Link to be here when done) on what we did to ease the loading while protecting the camper. No doubt the reason many don't take the camper on and off is because of the reloading time. We worked on that too, and it goes hand in hand with this set-up.
If we're staying more than one night, and fishing, the camper comes off. No questions, it's that easy.
When we're on the bikes or sleds, it doesn't matter as we ride from the site. Camper stays on the truck. Which is next on my list I think. HWH or Bigfoot..????
Thought for the day: Are you only grateful for a job when you don't have one?
I've been reading the replies.. seem to be on topic, pointed remarks, some really good advice and then good follow up questions. And it all feels totally ignored...
Mold, physical constraints, typical use...
Is the OP asking because they want good answers with good reasoning or because they want to hear what they want to hear?
As usual, BK's post was well thought out and full of solid advice. Thanks.