And that's why they call you Reality Check.. :B
Best friends with Capt. Obvious... lol
The forums are a great resource, entertaining, full of life and of course, massive miss information. I'm always amazed at questions that pop up and the answers that come out of left field. If one can weed through the posts from people who like to tell 'their' story vs those offering solid advice...one does well.
We all have a talent, earned somewhere. Some of us are jacks of lot's of trades, masters at none, some are experts and beyond within a certain field. Trick to good writing is only offering advice that is truly based on something other than you like telling stories.
Makes good reading, albeit frustrating at times.
Kudos to experts continuing the effort. Per Dog Folks, he often doesn't post because it seems that it's useless. I assure him, it is not. There are enough of us on here that weed through the responses to make it worthwhile even if we often don't point it out.
Of course, I'm not an expert on anything except my opinion.. Carry on.
If they are subterranean termites, these could be alates or "swarmers". They are trying to start new colonies. They released into the air in great quantities. 99% do NOT establish new colonies. They are weak fliers, often just being blown with the prevailing wind.
To start a new colony they need: A high amount of moisture. A rotten piece of wood or very soft soil to dig into. A rotten log or piece of wood that is water saturated, laying of the ground works best.
As these conditions probably do not exist in your camper, I would do NOTHING with pesticides. They will soon dehydrate and die.
Simply vacuum them up if you like. I know that they are scary, but the chance of infestation is virtually nil. IF your camper has not moved there may some migrating factors.
But what would I know? I only spent 35 years in professional, commercial pest control. PM me if you wish.
LMAO..... Now the fun part; ten more answers will follow from people who will determine that DIY experience trumps this.
Well written sir.
Candid...... the flood gates will open. Haters of all types will come out of the wood work.
I own trucks from all three manufactures (well, actually not true now; we just dumped our duramax 3500 at an auction. Don't even get me going about their chitty rear end designs).
For our camper, we stayed with the 6.0... despite all the hooplah, it's a good engine. It has its problems, but their pretty straight forward and fairly consistent. The 6.4... not so consistent. I'm in agreement that he 6.7 is holding to be a really good power plant, but newer means more money. Here's where our thinking took us.
As a company, I had good luck with the 7.3's; but as stated, they're getting old. And it's not just the engine that wears out.
We've had good luck with the 6.0's too. When they go, it's usually the head studs. It's a 5k fix.
Sound's expensive, but when you consider that you can get fairly low mileage 6.0's (2006's and 7's) for decently low prices, it's not such a bad deal. Best guess, you're going to spend 10k + or more to get a newer 2009/10/11 for similar mileage. So for us, even if we bought the used truck (which we did, the '07) and had to turn around and dump 5 or 6k into it, we were still ahead. 'Cause the fix is usually good for another 100k plus and we're still under what a newer rig would have cost us. And chances are, we won't have to fix it.
I've got two 6.0's left. One is 150k w/studs, and our RV model has 200k and I don't know if the studs have been done.
Lot's of ways to think about things... lot's of ideas, "facts" (yea, right) and opinions. To each there own. Good luck in the hunt.
And not today, but 10 years ago when I married the right man! He installed the new Firestone Airbags I thrust upon him..................
Of course it cost me...in many ways!!
I would agree that the 1/2" bolts were strong enough. My concern was keeping them tight with a piece of thin flat bar made into a washer crushing down into a oversize hole. I wanted bolts that filled the holes. As far a 1000lbs on the hitch that's not exactly the case with a hitch extension. There is a lot of prying action going on when you drive over a frost heave at 60mph...
lol.. frost heave is like a mountain in Houston.
I see your heave, and raise you a couple of bridge sections on I-5 and I-90..... ridden often on a Hendrickson suspension....fat lips to prove it.
I think he's figuring on 'per bolt' at 1000 #'s.
Hey, nice work if it makes you fill better. That's what matters.
8.... Usually pushing it hard; 70 max.
At 18k, I get about 8.
At 30k, I get a bit less...like 7.6
I saw 14+ once... an empty truck on a long stretch of 5 states.
Wife and I decided to spend it instead of dying with it... http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t161/prioronetime/Them%20thingys/drinkingwine.gif
North Cascades might open early this year (Hwy 20)... the drive, views, campgrounds, incredible.
Sun Lakes... more history and interesting info in the close area than most would imagine. Beautiful CG's to boot. Grand Coulee is close to there too.
Mt Rainier is worth the effort. Baker great to play on, but not in the same league.
Tetons are not to be missed. Just completely unbelievable. Eisenhower pass (west of Denver) is for sure underrated. 11,000 ft of great views.
So many towns to visit... so little time. 2 months sounds like alot...it's not. Make the most of it for sure!!
Didn't think about the overall height. Maybe a 550 would be the way to go. The price of a 550 gets up there once you add a bed etc. The reason I was looking a little bigger is I tow a trailer 95% of the time with my current setup (2009 F-350 Dually Diesel, 24' Enclosed Trailer & Arctic Fox 990). I have been looking at upgrading both the Camper and trailer. Bigger trailer and larger Chalet camper. Just thinking out loud here getting ideas
Late to the party..
I license the work 550's at 34k..they're good to 33,500 I believe. Get a pass on the RV version sorta, but you get the idea.
Most of us have stinger extensions, which limits the trailers in the 12k range anyhow. Easily within range for these rigs.
Add a heavy camper and 'stuff' (God knows, we all have lots of stuff, stuffed) and...well, it's just heavy.
I like those rigs you're looking at, but to be honest, I get tired of driving 'trucks'; the 550 is slightly better. If I had my druthers, I'd find a truck that drive like a town car and throw the camper on that....
I guess I need to understand the proper positioning for the COG over tandem axles as well as proper tongue weight.....
You're asking for a definitive answer to a vague question. The only thing the 'COG' sticker on the camper refers to is where the mark is when empty as constructed. It's a general guide line.
Put the camper on the trailer and go weight the tongue.. then you'll know. Then add all your crap...then you'll know more. It's trial and error. Not rocket science.
The rigs you see that have been successful are accomplished via good luck or school of hard knocks. End result is the same, success (hopefully) but there is no written rule for this stuff.
Take this answer in stride.. it's a Crown night...4 and counting :)
Personally, I like to be able to stop.
I offer this simple statement, as a lead in to the obviously, not so obvious. All this diatribe about 100 pounds over or under weight, fails to address the other important factors in driving. Stopping being one of them.
We've got trucks that are legal at 80,000, 105,500, etc. Even when at full legal weight, they're not anywhere near the actual max load they can carry. Axle's aren't maxed out, tires aren't, brakes aren't. Yet, this RV worlds pushes the limits, trying to squeeze out enough to get one more six pack loaded. Weight police I'm not...I find that just as ridiculous. But not taking into consideration all the differences between vehicles when comparing is a bit to simplistic I think.
The 450 pu is built heavier, including those all important brakes. Step up to a chassis model and the differences are stark.
I've had 350 p/u's, have a Chev 3500 dually; the brakes are adequate for their average loads. Running around maxed out though, they don't stop as I would like.
Keyboard jockey's can argue all day long. Makes good reading sometimes. But some of us have owned and driven these rigs, and can base their statements on reality.
Momma always said, just 'cause you can doesn't mean it's a good idea. Carry on...
Touch under 12'8". Stock tires.
Bigger is mo' better...
Remember, many 'roll-up' doors, have an actual open height less than the door dimensions, as they hang on the track. 12' won't necessarily give you 12'.
I'm leaning towards this yet wonder what thickness would be right for the weight?
Of Course I would also still use the camper legs.
Naked, that 'X' design (made from 3/4", or 23/32" plywood, can hold a maximum of 2400#'s. But painted, they can easily support up to 2950#'s. This, as determined from the manufactures adjusted paint index for customized lumber products, available on line.
You're going to hear a dozen stories about how that will never work, or plywood has no strength that direction, or it's a great idea and will support a loaded 11' camper with quad slides.
Those and a set of 4x's across each one (so that edges of the frame are supported) and your jacks would probably be just fine. And cheap. And take about 30 min to cut up. Paint, well, that's to anal for me. But it's pretty for sure.
There is a potential issue with over filling the fresh water tank. In particular if you attach a hose to the fresh water fill and the water supply has significant pressure you can "balloon" the fresh water tank since the tank vent is not of sufficient size to relieve the pressure. If it is off the truck it will, and some here have reported it, break the tank support ribs.
This is really operator error as the manual explicitly warns about this.
We almost always use ours off the truck when not winter camping. Manual describes the support required for off truck storage/use. It's easy and we like the easier access and less sway.
You will be fine for your proposed use with the camper as it is. However, if you want to make some modifications you can get some inspiration from this post which is for an AF 1150 though much of the advice would apply to a 990
Full time winter camping modifications
brholt makes a good point. The mod's some have made are fantastic, innovative, useable. But like all things, you need to look at your actual use and requirements. You don't need to build and prepare for a journey to arctic if you'll never camp more than a couple days and you're on road somewhere...which is where you'll probably be if you're dragging a trailer with sleds.
Even when we head to the 'mountains', up logging roads, in the winter, you're only going as far as it's maintained...and where there is other traffic. I imagine your snoparks are similar to other areas...there is other traffic around, even on the quietest of days.
Tongue-n-cheek..... how do you ride without mountains???? Come west my friend. A view to behold...
just wondering what to do to camper to keep some of cold air out
I try and keep the door closed, but beyond that, nothing. As opposed to someone trying to stay in their camper for weeks in the cold, most of us that snowmobile only go for a few nights at a time. So burning a little extra propane or gas for a gen is not an issue.
Condensation is an issue. Keeping a window/vent ever so slightly cracked helps. If we get to much on the windows, we'll just use a towel to wipe them, then hang it in the bathroom with the door shut, vent open.
Taking a camper off in the snow is problematic. We unload most of the time during the year, but not sledding. I can only imagine waking up to a couple feet of fresh. Then dealing with lining up again, after digging down, etc. Plus, as said earlier, wind blowing under is a factor.
Winter camping is the best bar none; we camp all year, as much as we can, and still can't wait to head out during the winter months.
I plan on using my AF 990 this winter when going snowmobiling any suggestions for keeping warm?
Wear boots and gloves... racing on the trails to the hills is brutal.
Ummm... suggestions: enjoy it, don't over think it and bring good food.
What exactly are you wondering about?
If the ball is at or behind the rear wall of the camper, you can't turn short enough while going forward to hit.
Blanket statement... and not a correct one.
Going forward, wheel locked, many trucks can turn sharp enough to get a 90 degree angle to the trailer. If the trailer doesn't have a tongue pivot point at least 1/2 the width of the trailer away, I promise you, it will hit.
I'm running a 48" stinger... and had to stretch the tongue on this trailer quite a ways. Still tight, but works fine. Jack knifing..?? you best be on your game and be aware, as these pictures show the angle just going forward.