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 > Your search for posts made by 'Rick Jay' found 91 matches.

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RE: Fuel economy and additives

In my experience, the use of 10% ethanol fuel reduces my MPG by about 10%. I know the "experts" say it should only be reduced 2-3%, but in 4 different vehicles, INCLUDING my 8.1L W-22 Motorhome, the measured reduction in MPG over time hovers right around 10%. Pretty much all we have here in the NorthEast and I believe most of the East Coast, is 10% ethanol blends. It's darn near impossible to find pure gas. But when I'm on the road and DO find it, I use it! So, IF you can find REAL gas for under a 10% price premium, I'd say go for it! ~Rick
Rick Jay 06/12/19 11:48am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Electric water heating

theoldwizard1, First of all, no, I have not done what you ask. We've always had plenty of hot water with our 10 gallon water heater, though a few times we did have to run propane AND electric. Do you have 50A service on your RV? If so, most 50A RV breaker panels WILL HAVE 240VAC available when connected to a properly wired 50A service. You would have to change the breaker in the box to one which connected to both "hots". You might be able to even use the same cable going to the water heater. You obviously would need a 240VAC heating element the current draw of which would have to be within the wire & breaker ratings. Keep in mind, however, if you do this, your water heater WILL NOT WORK ON ELECTRIC if you have 30A service. 30A service is 120V only. It also may not work off your generator as many generators (even our 7 kW Onan) put out two 120VAC lines, but they are in phase, so 240V is NOT AVAILABLE on generator power. In my opinion, these are two big negatives, and probably why you don't see it done much, if at all. ~Rick
Rick Jay 06/05/19 10:39am Tech Issues
RE: A home electrical question...

Stevebx, Two questions, if I may? Just out of curiosity, what type of bulb is in the fixture: incandescent, fluorescent, compact fluorescent or LED? While technically a bulb should be completely dark when it's "off", I've seen some that seem to glow for a long time afterward, especially the fluorescents and some LEDs. In fact, we have an LED sign which when shut off, you can still see a slight glow coming from the LEDs when the room is otherwise completely dark. If I pull the plug, they go dark. Apparently just the potential across the bulbs/power supply is enough to allow a trickle current through them so they barely illuminate. I never observed this type of problem with an incandescent bulb. Second question, while unusual for a stairway, is there a dimmer control on one of the switches? ~Rick
Rick Jay 06/05/19 10:27am Tech Issues
RE: Dewinterizing issue

Perhaps there is a Low-Point drain open? ~Rick
Rick Jay 06/05/19 10:09am Class C Motorhomes
RE: How big is too big?

Big Steve, You pretty much stated that you'll need a 30' to satisfy your space needs, so why would you consider something smaller? Do you want to be unhappy 99% of the time you take the rig out just in case your 30' rig doesn't fit into a spot on a campground you might visit sometime in the future? Most here will tell you, it's all about the floor plan. Find a floor plan that will work for you and your family. You'll adapt to whatever else you need to do. As others have said, there are plenty of campgrounds around. We tend to stay at mostly private campgrounds and have never had a problem finding a site to fit our 36' class A. In fact, most times, we have our choices of sites based upon where we want to be located in the campground and/or available hookups. The only thing I'd mention, seeing as you're somewhat of a newbie, is to understand that ALL of these RVs have weight limits. Just because there is enough space to bring things, doesn't mean there is enough weight carrying capacity. Some people run their rigs overweight all of the time and it doesn't seem to bother them. Me? The engineer in me makes me want to keep things under the limits set by the manufacturers. I'd recommend you at least consider weight as a possible issue. Just two people in a 30' Class C probably won't be a problem. A family of 5 or 6 in that same RV is a different story. But my recommendation, know what the limits are on any RV you consider and feel free to ask any questions which might arise. Good Luck in your search! ~Rick
Rick Jay 05/27/19 09:43am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Now we have, "double post" police

Agreed! You should cross-post this to ALL the forums! LOL Just kidding! :) ~Rick
Rick Jay 05/14/19 12:00pm General RVing Issues
RE: On/Off switch on dash

I added a switch to our 2005 GBM Cruise Master which switches the dash radio power from the chassis battery to the coach batteries. A little while later, I added a second one that turns on the sub-woofer. THAT one is noticeable when it's turned on! LOL We have a light on/near the armrests that control overhead reading lights for the driver & passenger, and as others have said, this requires that the switch on the actual light fixture itself to be ON. Otherwise, it looks like the switch doesn't have a function. ~Rick
Rick Jay 05/07/19 11:04am Class A Motorhomes
RE: $3150 to service Onan 7k and replace ignition coils!

Hi, I, too, think that is outrageous, but they do have to pay their bills, and I agree that us motorhome owners are often seen as "rich". I also can't address the issues of repairing the generators like some of those before me have. I haven't had to do much to my Onan 7K other than normal maintenance. That said, I purchased one of these 500 lb. Capacity Hydraulic Table Carts when I had to drop my gas tank to have it welded, and at the same time, replaced the fuel pump. This thing made the job quite safe as I didn't have any help with the process. Then, two years ago, our refrigerator failed and I replaced it with a compressor model. Again, I used the above cart to slide the old refrigerator onto, and then when installing the new one, we put it on the cart and were able to match heights so much more easily than if we had to lift it up all ourselves. As I was reading the posts on your generator, I'm thinking that SHOULD I ever have to remove my generator, that cart might come in handy once again. Oh, if you need more capacity, they sell a 1000 lb. version for another $90 or so. But so far, I think I've been well served with the 500 lb. model. Just something to think about. Good Luck, ~Rick
Rick Jay 04/30/19 05:23pm Tech Issues
RE: Low overpasses, etc.

You're in CT, so stay off any road that ends in the word PARKWAY (like Merrit Parkway) and that goes for any state While that is generally good advice, you CAN drive on the New Jersey "Garden State Parkway" with your RV, BUT be sure to stay in the center lanes. A few of the arched overpasses have low height warning signs (10 or 11 ft?), but that might even be over the break-down lane. I've driven it many times in our 12' tall class A and never had a problem. But every other "Parkway" that I know of in the Northeast usually has signage something like "No Trucks or Buses" or "Low Clearance". Stay on the major highways and you'll be OK. IF you drive in the "boonies", and I can speak from experience in Western Massachusetts, DO NOT proceed down any road that doesn't look like it sees regular truck traffic. There are some roads in Western Mass in my GPS which were logging roads over a 100 years ago, and are unpassable unless you're on horseback or possibly an off-road 4WD Jeep. They start off looking like a normal, small road through a nice neighborhood, and then the pavement disappears, the trees start crowding in on the road and then it gets bad quickly after that. Fortunately, when I had this happen to me, I DID NOT drive the moho down that path because I could tell it was getting scary and I could turn around BEFORE the pavement disappeared. However, I did go back the next day in the minivan to check it out. No lie, I think the road went between this guy's house & his chicken coop, and about 200' after that there was a huge rock in the middle of the road. The road at this point was pretty rutted up and narrow. But the GPS thought we could make it! LOL I was lucky to get out of there in the minivan! My general rule is NOT to drive in such areas once it gets dark, but not so much for fear of bridges, but for fear of low branches. I'll drive all night on the highways without a problem, but if I have to travel on backroads to get to a campground, I try my best to arrive BEFORE it gets dark. Navigating a new campground in the dark is often no picnic either! LOL Good Luck, ~Rick
Rick Jay 04/27/19 10:16am Beginning RVing
RE: Winnebago 2007 or 2011 Thor

Hi, I agree with the Tiffen, Newmar & Winnebago comments for quality, but of course, condition is a huge part of that as well. The only thing I'd suggest you look at IF you start looking at Winnebago's is to check the chassis for rust. My uncle has a 2007 Winnebago Voyage and for whatever reason, there is A LOT of rust on the sheetmetal of the chassis. Our Georgie Boy is several years older and doesn't have anywhere near the rust his does and we live in the same parts of the country. His did take 2 more winter Florida trips than ours, so his might have been exposed to a bit more salt, but I would doubt that alone could be the reason. Maybe his just received a crummy paint job on the sheet metal? And I haven't heard any one else complain of this on these forums, so perhaps his is an isolated case. The only other thing I would suggest is IF it's at all possible, I'd recommend you consider something in the 34'-36' range. The extra couple of feet make a big difference for interior space and outside storage. The difference driving is mostly negligible and there shouldn't be that much difference in cost. Good Luck in your search. ~Rick
Rick Jay 04/27/19 09:01am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Short trip opinion

Hi, Friday to Sunday camping is a very common scenario for many. Just watch the parade of RV's at any campground checking in on Friday afternoon and leaving on Sunday. Of course, you'll BE in that line of campers checking in on Fridays, so best if you can get there to beat the rush, or ideally, arrive and Thursday and then sit back and watch all of the Friday-Sunday campers get set up. Only you will be able to determine if that's too much work. True story: A couple of years after we got our motorhome, I see this young family with two kids (under 10 years old), mommy & daddy arrive at the campground we were staying at. They arrived on a Friday and it was raining. Pretty steady, too, not just a drizzle. They had a pop-up. Since we hadn't made reservations until the last minute, we had to move our rig to another spot for the weekend. No biggee. So I'm watching this guy get setup in the rain while his wife brings the kids to the indoor play area of the campground. I decide to move to our new spot. In about 45 minutes, I had pulled up stakes at our first site, moved to our new site (which was right across from this guy's area), got all setup, poured myself a drink and enjoyed the view from our new site, which was actually closer to the water. I also watched this poor guy move large tupperware/storage containers from the van to the camper, all in the rain. I think he worked another hour or so after we had settled in at the new site. And it rained ALL weekend, including Sunday. And yup, on Sunday, he did it all in reverse. Now, in MY opinion, that was too much trouble. I give him a lot of credit for doing it, but that's WAY TOO MUCH work for me when I'm supposed to be on vacation. LOL But, everyone is different. I do have a couple of suggestions. IF you live on a property where you can store your RV, then just "weekend camp" in your driveway the first couple of times. Heck, you can even start the adventure on Thursday night, go to work on Friday and then the rig is already to go for you to enjoy over the weekend. If you forgot anything, you're right at the house. Go in and get it, then go back out to the RV. If you can't keep the RV at your property, obviously that won't work. But you should still be able to bring it to your house to practice the setup procedure. Figure out the minimum you need to do & bring for a two night stay. Another suggestion I'd make is to think about getting a motorhome that might be within your budget. It might require some fixing up, but there are lots of good ones available IF you know what to look for. The reason I suggest this is, in my opinion, setup time at the campground is minimized with a motorized RV. Heck, we're arrived at the campground at night and in the rain, and all I do is go out and plug in to the shore power. Then when the rain stops, I do any other connections needed. But leveling & slide deployment (if needed) is all done from inside. Yes, I'm a creature of convenience! LOL Back when we were doing our research 18 years ago, we thought about a travel trailer solution, but we realized it wouldn't work for those short trips, or even day trips, which we knew we'd want to take with the kids. With the motorhome, we often use it for day trips. I call it the "Maxi-Van"! LOL Ok, that might be a little extreme, but depending upon what your vacation time availability is, it might be something to consider. There are lots of options and solutions out there. You have to find one that will work for you and your family, and the way you plan to camp. Good Luck in your search. ~Rick
Rick Jay 04/14/19 11:46am General RVing Issues
RE: Headlight for Gulfstream Ultra Supreme 2005

gloriebkj, The one with water in it, can you drill a small hole (1/8" or so) underneath where the water is collecting to let it drain out? ~Rick
Rick Jay 04/10/19 12:31pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Well George is home!

dodge guy, Nice looking rig! Congratulations and many happy miles & smiles! :) Definitely get it weighed and check tire pressures to make sure they're appropriate. It's common for dealers to inflate tires to the maximum psi on the tires, which is usually way over inflated for the weight they are carrying. I usually add an additional 5-10 psi over the chart specs to account for any weight imbalance. As for the alignment, way back when I used to do my own alignments on my '71 Mustang (yup....going WAY back! LOL), I was taught that you need to keep the steering wheel straight and make sure it stays in the proper position when doing the alignment. I suspect these rigs are probably the same. The mechanics do the alignment without any regard to the position of the steering wheel because it's faster and easier. Not sure I'd want to try to do an alignment on my motorhome...but if it ever needs one....I just might. LOL Anyway, Good Luck with the new rig. ~Rick
Rick Jay 04/07/19 01:01pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Traveling new england

Well, it's hard to avoid Massachusetts if you just want to see those three states, but I can't blame you if you do! LOL I'd add Maine, parts of Rhode Island (don't blink, you'll miss it! LOL) and yes, even parts of Massachusetts to your list, time permitting. What time of year are you planning your trip? The coastal regions of all the states have things to offer, as do the mountain regions. Laconia Motorcycle Week in New Hampshire is June 8-16 this year, if that's something that might interest you. But campground up in New England aren't usually in "full swing" until the middle of May, and I believe some just open around May 15th. So if you're planning a trip in the new future, your camping options may be limited. But also understand that that campground in New England have to make their money in June, July & August, so that's when things are busiest and rates are highest. Mid-May and September/early October are the best in that regard. But nights can be chilly during those times, and even the days may occasionally be on the cool side. ~Rick
Rick Jay 04/04/19 11:07am Roads and Routes
RE: Slide Out!

1L243, That depends upon the motorhome. On our class A, I can put the slide out or bring them in without the engine running. They WILL NOT go out with the engine running (safety interlock feature). Also, my slides don't care if the parking brake is set or not, but if a storage bay door under a slide is open, the slides will not go out. The slides WILL come in with the engine running. In fact, I can literally hear the main slide motor working easier when the engine is running, so I usually start the engine to bring in the main slide. The small slide in the bedroom doesn’t seem to matter that much. The fifth wheel you mention only HAS “coach” batteries as there IS no chassis battery, so no option there and the tow vehicle will start even if those batteries are weak/dead. A lot of (many/most/all?) motorhomes have the slides wired to the chassis battery. I believe the reason for this is so that IF you run the coach batteries down overnight (say with the furnace running), you can still bring in the slides in the morning using the fully charged chassis battery and hit the road. As was mentioned above, starting the engine boosts the battery voltage by a good 10+% which is easier on the motor and wiring. Not being an RV designer, the other thing I wonder is if the slides in the motorhomes have to be built a bit more solidly seeing as there may be people sitting in the slide area while the vehicle is in motion. This isn’t a concern with trailers & fivers. Therefore the slides in the motorhomes might be heavier. Just guessing there. Most likely, it’s whatever the manufacturer thinks is best. Or cheapest! LOL ~Rick
Rick Jay 03/30/19 11:37am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Re-engine a class A

blownstang01 & Big Katuna, Thanks for the info. I guess I can stick to my plans and start shopping for that early 2000's Prevost in 5 years or so! I can't afford a new one!!! LOL B.K., I was thinking the pre-DEF units would be less problematic as well, that's why I was a bit puzzled, but your explanations do make sense. Thanks again, ~Rick
Rick Jay 02/20/19 05:46pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Re-engine a class A

It’s fairly astounding how cheap the 07 and older DPs are right now. I doubt I can get $30k for my 40,000 mile three slide. And no one wants them. Dealers don’t even take them for trade. Why is that? Is it because the engines/drivetrains are troublesome? Or is it just the whole pre-DEF thing? We love our Class A gasser, but my plans are in the next 5-8 years or so, to pick up a high-end mid-2000's DP. If they're problematic, maybe I'll rethink my plans. But if it's something else, I'm thinking I could adjust. Thanks in advance. :) ~Rick
Rick Jay 02/20/19 01:14pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: 32 ft class c

Mich F, For full disclosure, while your OCCC number looks good, from a CAT Scale slip you once posted on a different forum, you only have about 1,800 lbs. capacity on your rear axle. Almost 900 lbs. of your OCCC is unusable unless as rjstractor says, you hang a lot of stuff off the front bumper. (To piggyback onto rjs comments, when you put weight behind the rear axle, it not only adds it's weight to the rear axle, but the rear axle acts as a pivot point and it takes weight OFF of the front axle and transfers it to the rear axle too. Think of a see-saw.) A couple could probably live with that if they're careful about weight. But I think a family would be hard-pressed to keep it within the limits. But it really depends upon your intended use of the rig. c5er, when we were looking for our first RV for our family of 6 back in 2004, we looked at the E-450 based rigs, and anything large enough that would comfortably fit the family the way we wanted to use the rig, would be WAY over weight. I estimated we'd need about 3,000 lbs. for water, people & stuff. That estimate seemed to be pretty accurate based upon various CAT scale weight tickets I've picked up over the years. The "Super C's" on the Kodiak chassis's were just coming out at that point. We found our "ideal RV" as a class A. It has a GVWR of 22,000 lbs. and full fuels, 1/4 water and me it weighed in at 18,800 lbs. So we have about 3,200 lbs. of capacity for the family and all of our stuff. Due to the axle weight specs (the rear & front axle specs actually total to over 22,000 lbs.) we have yet to load it and exceed an axle weight rating. The heaviest we ever rolled through the scales was about 21,600 lbs. And by the way, our rig is 36' long, has 2 slides, 2 AC's, hydraulic levelers and TONS of storage space inside and out. With a large family, we needed that and pretty much use most of it. By the way, all of that research paid off. We still have the same rig today and I'm planning on keeping it for at least another 5 years, maybe longer. So moral of the story, do your research first. It looks like you're doing that, so keep asking questions here. Anyway, try to make a real good estimate of what you'll need to carry for weight and understand that in a Class C, pretty much all of that weight will be carried on the rear axle, so excess front axle weight capacity isn't helpful. We knew we'd be travelling and need the water tank (80 gallons) full, and I usually travel that way anyway...just in case. Some people are comfortable carrying minimal water. Some people are very good at being minimalists. My wife and I aren't. I'm a "do-it-yourselfer" so I have about 3 storage bins for tools and spare parts. I swear the wife had winter parkas stowed under the bed when we went to Florida IN JULY a few years back. You know, just in case! LOL The only thing I'd recommend is not to rule ANYTHING out in your search. Even look at some class A's. I'd recommend looking at 5-10 year old Tiffins, Newmars and Winnebagos. They might seem a bit more intimidating, but driving one isn't any more challenging than driving a C. But STILL be vigilant with weight ratings and actual weights. KNOW before you buy!!! :) Good Luck in your search. ~Rick
Rick Jay 02/18/19 10:56am Class C Motorhomes
RE: A Class bunk floor plan help

When we bought our Class A, bunks in a Class A were not common at all. Shortly thereafter, almost every manufacturer had them. Almost all very similar. There was only ONE bunk arrangment that I might have considered IF I were buying. I forgot the manufacturer, but they put the bunks on the OTHER SIDE of the bathroom than the floorplan you show. That is, towards the living area. And I believe it WAS a gasser model too. And if I'm not mistaken, one of the manufacturers with a better reputation. But sorry, I don't remember which one. I think it came out late 2000's or so. But I never saw one in person. My reason against 99% of the bunkhouse models is I didn't want "tender ears" a paper thin wall away from the "mommy & daddy" space. One thing, quite unexpected to me when we were looking, was wifey's shall we say "friskyness" when we were out on vacation and she could relax. The model I was mentioning above had lots of separation between the adults & the kids. With the A/C's or heatstrips/furnace running, there was very good sound isolation between the spaces. Our rig has the dual sofas up front and along with the dinette, this floorplan has met our needs throughout all of these years. I prefer the idea of having more dedicated living space than sleeping space for the kids. The kids had no problem with it either. Even now, when they're in the later teens, it still works out. But dual sofas in a gas class A are pretty rare nowadays too. So....I guess my next rig will have to be a big ol' DP! LOL Good Luck in your search. ~Rick
Rick Jay 02/10/19 08:02am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Ms Tioga and George

pnichols, Thank you for the link! He certainly was an inspirational man! ~Rick
Rick Jay 02/09/19 12:15pm Class C Motorhomes
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