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 > Your search for posts made by 'Rick Jay' found 105 matches.

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RE: Modifying roof a/c cover

Hmmmm....I have the "low profile" A/C units and shrouds on our rig and there are NO louvers cut in the covers at all and the A/C's seem to run fine. I'm assuming the designers had some idea of what they were doing and I like the lower profile. That said, and expanding on prichardson's comment, for this mod, the problem that comes to my mind is that the back of the A/C shroud is most likely a "low pressure" area when the rig is travelling. Ever wonder why the back of your car, rig, van or SUV tends to get dirtier than the rest of it? When travelling forward, the back is a low pressure area that draws in road dirt, water, exhaust, etc. and deposits it on the surface. Even when you see vehicles travelling down the road in the rain, the low pressure area behind it tends to atomize the road spray, giving that "cloud of mist" right behind the vehicle reducing your visibility. One reason why it's nice sitting up high in the Class A...you see right over that. :) But I digress... My concern for this mod would be that when travelling and the roof A/C units AREN'T being used, will that mesh screen he made, with the smaller holes, tend to become plugged up quickly with deposited material? I realize that with the original louvers, some of that stuff made it through to the condenser, which is why it needs to be cleaned periodically. But about half of it was left on the structure of the louvers. That structure is now removed. With this mod, I'm guessing the condenser will stay cleaner, but that grill might need to be cleaned more frequently as it's now the first line of defense against the debris sucked in by the low pressure area. When the A/C is running, this probably won't be as much of an issue because the fan will be forcing debris out the grill. On a lesser, more technical note, I also am not 100% his anemometer readings can be completely trusted. With the original louvers, a large part of the anemometer sensor was over a louver, not a slot. A truly accurate test, in my opinion, would have to include the airflow through the entire louver structure in a "wind tunnel" sort of set up. I'm not saying this doesn't improve air flow. It might. On the other hand, I also know that fans draw air through a screen much more efficiently than blowing air through a screen, and what he installed there is borderline to being considered a screen. Again, I'd like to see the airflow numbers on a full mock-up, not just a single reading on a selected part of the screen. I'm sure for BOTH systems, you do not get constant numbers as you move the anemometer around the path of the airflow. Such being the case, it's pretty easy to make the result LOOK much better than they actually ARE. Actually, now that I think about it more, the aerodynamics and flow rates might change quite a bit while the rig is in motion due to the low pressure area created. In my mind, that casts even more of a doubt about the accuracy of the airflow numbers presented. Obviously this isn't an issue when parked, but at highway speeds, there might be some drastic differences in the airflow numbers. Anyway, take all of this commentary for what you will. It's just my $0.02 worth. I'm not sold that it actually would be an improvement, and might be a detriment. As I said, my A/C covers have no louvers and I'll stick with that. :) ~Rick
Rick Jay 08/24/19 10:05am General RVing Issues
RE: Freelander 21QB owners?

way2roll, That's kind of the way I read it too. Unless it's being purchased from a trusted family member, I hope it's not a case of "sight unseen". Or they have some way of backing out of the deal upon inspection. Just There, Not sure what your background is with motorhomes and RV's in general, but I suggest you do a lot research and know what to look for when you go see it. Good Luck, ~Rick
Rick Jay 08/23/19 06:45am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Dash A/C Problem

Loren Ross, I had that same burning smell on my rig a while back when we were about 20 minutes or so from the campground. We were able to make it OK, but when I got there and started doing some snooping & internet searching, it was obvious that the problem was the A/C compressor clutch had failed. I think what might happen is that when the A/C is on and in demand, everything is fine, but when the compressor is supposed to disengage, the clutch is supposed to free-wheel, and THAT is where the problem lies. It doesn't free-wheel, it apparently binds and overheats. Or at least, that was the problem with mine. I guess it might be the compressor about ready to go, too, though I'll admit I don't have enough experience with them to know if that is a mode of failure. Maybe letting it cool down helped so it worked upon restarting. The burning rubber smell is, to me, a definite sign that something was being made to work harder than it should. If your motorhome is on a Workhorse Chassis, I can post some links which might be helpful for a solution. If it's on a Ford chassis, you'll have to rely on someone else for help. Good Luck, ~Rick
Rick Jay 08/22/19 11:04am Class A Motorhomes
RE: 120 volt electrical outlets, no power.Help!

captron33, "One loose screw caused several 120 volt outlets to not have power." You are fortunate that you found this problem. Under the right conditions, "one loose screw" can cause things to get hot enough to start a fire. And thanks for posting your solution. Hopefully someone else will be able to learn from your experience & solution. You might consider this a good time to systematically go around and make sure all AC connections are clean and tight. Then can loosen up over time. Kind of a pain to do, in fact, I'm probably overdue myself, but it's a good preventative maintenance step. Safe Travels! ~Rick
Rick Jay 08/20/19 06:35pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Winnebago and the Workhorse

rgatijnet1 is correct about his statements about the Bosch brakes, W chassis and the P series. ~Rick
Rick Jay 08/20/19 08:25am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Emergency escape thoughts...

Well, in our Class A with have an emergency exit window in the back bedroom on the driver's side, the mid-entry door on the passenger side, and the driver's access door on the driver's side. I'm assuming one of those should be available. I don't think I'd try to squeeze through one of our 14" roof vent openings, unless my dying wish is to give everyone else a good laugh! :) The skylight in the shower, however, I could probably fit through, but I'm thinking it's not going to break/push out too easily. To be honest, other than informing the occupants where the doors/exits are located, I never really gave it much thought. There are just way too many variables for what such an incident might entail. While I like to be prepared, I've learned that sometimes you have to take reasonable precautions and leave the rest up to fate. Then go and enjoy the day. :) Safe travels to all! ~Rick
Rick Jay 08/19/19 02:00pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Winnebago and the Workhorse

In my opinion, during the early to mid 2000's, the Workhorse W-22 chassis bested the Ford F-53 with a better transmission, better handling and a lower doghouse. In my opinion, both engines were good, though there are obvious differences between the V10 & V8. Could you tell us more about the rig and chassis? How long (or what model number) is the rig and which Workhorse Chassis, the W20 or the W22? If it's a longer rig on the W20, or a long, triple slide rig on a W22, the rig might not have a lot of cargo carrying capacity. (For reference, our 36', dual slide rig on the W-22 weighs in just about 18,800 empty, so we have 3,200 lbs. available for people & stuff to reach the 22,000 lb. GVWR. The GCWR is 26,000 lbs. It gets a little complicated, but if you want to tow a vehicle over 4,000 lbs., you have to borrow that excess off the weight in the rig. Our Honda Odyssey weighs about 4,500 lbs, so we don't load our rig to over 21,500 lbs. The tow hitch is rated to 5,000 lbs., so that's pretty much the maximum tow limit. We've been able to manage that with our family without any real difficulty and we do not pack light! :) ) Many manufacturers offered their motorhomes on either the Ford or the Workhorse chassis'. In general, depending upon which price lists you look at, there was an upcharge for the Workhorse chassis (over the Ford) of between $2,500 and $5,000. Because of this, when dealers ordered the RV, they often ordered it with the Ford chassis so they could offer it at a lower price. We ordered ours from the factory and opted for the Workhorse W-22 chassis and I've been VERY happy with the chassis part of the rig. As others had mentioned, the W-22 had two important factory recalls. One dealt with the front brake calipers and the other required a fuel rail clip to be replaced on the engine. I would think that any W-22 still on the road would've had the recalls taken care of. Good Luck, ~Rick
Rick Jay 08/17/19 02:23pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Replacing Workhorse Brake Line

TC&Z, Minor point, but the rig was my uncle's, not mine. :) Interestingly, they also purchased it from a dealer in Florida, I believe the name is synonymous with "slothful 24 hour time periods". :) Anyway, your description of the cause sounds very plausible. I will pass that along to him, not that there's anything we can do about it now. I think he's been beating himself up that it was his fault 'cause he didn't hose it down well enough after their Florida trips. I think he'll get some comfort in your story. Thank you! :) His wife passed away a few years ago, and his Parkinson's has progressed to the point he can no longer drive any vehicle. The last couple of years, I've been driving it for him. I'm just thankful that when I drove it home from their camping lot last Fall, the line didn't fail while I was driving. It failed right in his driveway, when they went to move it this Spring. His kids are now getting it ready to put it up for sale. Want another for spare parts? LOL Safe travels, ~Rick
Rick Jay 08/17/19 10:35am Tech Issues
RE: Replacing Workhorse Brake Line

TC&Z, I just checked your profile and noticed you have a 2007 Winnebago Voyage. My uncle has a 36' 2007 Voyage on a W24 as well, and he just lost a brake line due to rust. In fact, I've been surprised by all of the underbody rust I see on his rig. Way more than I have on mine, and mine is a couple of years older. I'm wondering if Winnebago overlooked a rustproof/undercoat step on their Voyage line that year. Or perhaps it was a Workhorse issue? I believe his failed brake line was in the vicinity of the mufflers, so the added heat with road salt probably accelerated the problem. But down your neck of the woods, I wouldn't think road salt would be used that much. Is that correct? I chalked it up to the fact that we're up here in New England and back in the day, they used to make frequent winter trips to Florida, so they likely were exposed to a lot of road salt during their treks south in the winter. But maybe the salt wasn't really the cause. Anyway, I would very carefully inspect all of the brake lines on the rig. I'd probably recommend that anyone with a 2007 Voyage on a W24 carefully inspect their brakelines for rust as well. Good Luck, ~Rick
Rick Jay 08/16/19 05:18pm Tech Issues
RE: PEX PIPE?

Another vote for the Sharkbite type connections. The neat thing about these connectors is you can rotate the pipes AFTER they've been connected, which can sometimes aid in the installation. Just make sure you push the pipes together so they complete seat in the connector. Also, they sell a special tool for cutting the pex pipe cleanly. I HIGHLY RECOMMEND you pick up this tool. It makes cutting an easy job and the ends are nice and true. The Sharkbite connectors require that the end be square and in good shape, no scratches on the OUTSIDE of the tube, or else it will leak. While you're done at the hardware store, pickup a couple of spare shut-off valves so that IF you should ever have another pex leak, you can cut the pipe and quickly isolate that section of the plumbing and keep the rest of your rigs water system functional until you can get it fixed. Cheap insurance. Oh, and I AM HANDY and I STILL USE the Sharkbite type connectors. They're just easier. :) I didn't trust them at first, but I'll be danged, they work very well. No issues at all, and I've had some on my rig now for 13 years. Good Luck, ~Rick
Rick Jay 08/16/19 04:50pm Tech Issues
RE: Replacing Workhorse Brake Line

There has to be a way to bleed the brakes. This pic says the bleeder screw is 7/16"-24: here. From some of the pics, it appears that there might be a bleeder screw on each side of the caliper. Is that true? Or is one the bleeder and the other the inlet for the brake line? That would make more sense, just can't tell from the pic with my aging eyes. :) This site shows a drawing showing the location of the bleeder screw (towards the top of the drawing): here. ~Rick
Rick Jay 08/16/19 04:38pm Tech Issues
RE: Best fit for family of six?

MDB, Ok, parts of your story are similar to ours...4 kids, want to travel to see sights and visit family which was scattered along the east coast. Our reasoning was a bit different. (Wifey does NOT do well in hotels once we had kids. Even when we had just one, it was apparent that the only way we were ever going to go anywhere was if we had ALL of our stuff with us all the time. It just drove her nuts fearing we'd leave some of the kids clothes, or favorite toy behind. So shortly after child #2, we began thinking about alternatives.) Anyway, I'll also tell you to be careful as you read on, lest you follow in our footsteps! ;) We, too, have a Honda Odyssey and originally we were looking at pop-ups, then small hybrid TT, to tow with the Odyssey. It quickly became apparent that there was no "Honda towable" solution that would work for us. So then I thought about picking up an E-350 van (this was back in 2002ish) pulling a larger TT. But the cost of a newer E-350 van and a new TT put us in the price range of Class C motorhomes. So, we started looking at those. Had just about settled on one, but then realized there was not an E-450 based C that could carry the six of us the way we wanted to travel AND be under the manufacturer's weight limits for the vehicle. As an engineer, that thought bothered me, so we started looking at other alternatives, including a Class A. If you haven't already looked at my signature, you'll see that THAT is the solution we arrived upon. We bought it new in 2004 and still have it and I expect we'll be using it for at least another 3-5 years, at which point I hope to retire and possibly get a 20 year old Prevost. But that's a different topic! :-) SO...we started looking at things we could tow with our Honda, and we ended up buying something that TOWS our Honda. Yes, we were fortunate that we could justify the extra cost. I won't go into that now, but suffice it to say I think it was worth every penny. I would expect our kids will be able to use it when I get my Prevost! LOL What we liked BEST about our motorhome floorplan was it's dual sofa layout. At the time we purchased our motorhome, our oldest was 7 and our youngest had just turned 1. The dual sofa floorplan gave them plenty of sleeping options as well as plenty of places to sit while travelling (we have 12 belted positions in our motorhome) as well as room for us to watch a family movie on rainy days. It's been a GREAT floorplan over the years and I still have yet to find a floorplan that I think would work better for us. I do not like the "bunk" Class A floorplans because invariably the kids bunks are a paper-thin wall away from the "adult" bedroom. Too close for our comfort. In our rig, all of the kids are asleep up front, and we have a decent space between them and our bedroom for some privacy. (Yes, you can have some semblance of privacy in a motorhome! LOL) The class A also had much larger capacity holding tanks and much more storage inside and outside. With a family of 6, you quickly realize things like finding a place to store at least 18 pairs of shoes without tripping over them can be interesting. (Sounds like a lot, but 6 people, and each has at least 3 pairs: dress shoes, sneakers, hiking boots. Oh, wait, plus water shoes...make that 24 pairs! LOL) Anyway, our rig has closet and drawer storage where the bunk models have bunks. We figured, and for our kids anyway, that dedicated living space was more important than dedicated sleeping space. That has worked really well. I know in some families that might not be the case...but our kids like each other! LOL We have used our rig for day trips and even, when the kids were smaller, for trips to the mall. I was gaining experience driving the rig, and it gave us a place to retreat to when the kids needed a rest. A couple more thoughts...what year Odyssey do you have? Per Honda, the last year that could be towed four-wheels down is 2004. Anything newer than that and you'd have to use a dolly, or so says Honda. I've heard of people flat-towing 2005+ models, but they're taking a bit of a chance doing so. So, anyway, in a nutshell, IF you're going to entertain the idea of a Class C, you probably should look at Class A's, too. IF I was going to do ANYTHING different, I think I might be tempted to purchase a 3-5 year old higher-end rig than a new middle-of-the-road rig. But when we were buying, slides were just beginning to become standard, and most of the 3-5 year old rigs available didn't have slides, something we felt we needed with 6 people on board. As I said, upon retiring, I will strongly think about picking a 20+ year old rig that had an original price tag near the million dollar mark. But as a complete newbie, as I was when we bought our rig, I would NOT recommend that path. Anyway, good luck as you start figuring out what will work best for you. You have some time to ponder and search, and that is a good thing. We spent about 3 years from our first visit to an RV show to purchasing our Class A. But that time was well spent. We avoided buying the wrong RV, which can be rather costly especially if you buy new. Do your research BEFORE you buy. ~Rick
Rick Jay 08/15/19 05:09pm Beginning RVing
RE: Help finding nightly parking for our caravan

I can't help with your specific questions, but if it's any help in planning, we average just about 50 mph when travelling on major highways, and that's with a travelling speed usually between 60-65, unless the speed limit is lower. So, with a 2,500 mile trip, that's just about 50 hours of driving. Keep in mind, though, that 50 mph was for our family and, at most, two medium size dogs, and included periodic stops for restroom use, walking the dogs, refills on drinks, snacks, sandwiches & refueling. But, it's going to take you A LOT longer to walk 13 dogs, so I'm guessing your average travelling speed will probably be closer to 45 mph, maybe even less, pushing the total driving time to a minimum of 56 hours. Plus, we only had one vehicle to refuel, you'll have to coordinate refueling for up to 4 vehicles. That will slow down your average a bit, as well. But there's NO WAY you'll average 60 mph or even 55 mph. I think you should plan on the 45 mph average. If you should average better than that, then call it a night early and try to hit the road a bit earlier the next day. Or if there's a person available to make calls, see if you can find an alternate site for the night. Speaking of which, will there be additional passengers NOT driving in any of the vehicles? It would be extremely helpful if there was at least one person NOT driving that could make calls or tend to miscellaneous tasks which might come up. Driving 10 hours with a 45 mph average means 450 miles per day. You might try to find suitable locations at distances of 400, 450 & 500 miles from the previous night to give you some flexibility. That would allow you to make adjustments "on the fly" if you should either be ahead of schedule, or behind schedule. Another thing I just thought of is the days get short at that time of year. I'd plan on arriving at your destination in the daylight and leaving VERY EARLY in the morning. I find it a lot easier to LEAVE a (campground) parking area in the dark than arriving at one in the dark. Seeing as you'll have to get the dogs walked and settled, I would think you'd need at least 30-60 minutes BEFORE it gets dark. It could just be me, but I HATE trying to figure out the "lay of the land" in the dark. Google Maps quickly shows two routes: one more northerly on I-80 and another southern route on I-40. I'm assuming you're planning on taking the more southerly route to (hopefully) eliminate the chance of freezing precipitation. This sounds like a very challenging logistics question. Please keep us updated on your ideas as well as let us know how it all worked out for you. Good Luck, ~Rick
Rick Jay 08/15/19 01:34pm RV Parks, Campgrounds and Attractions
RE: Ford V10 gradual reduction in fuel economy

whemme, Ok, I'll probably take some flak for this, but over the years, have you been using less "real gas" (no alcohol) and more of the E10? On all of our vehicles, the miles per gallon drops just about 10% on the E10 gas we get all over the east coast. When we first got our motorhome, our gas stations had real gas and that's what I uased. When the E10 was mandated and I had to use that, I noticed our mpg dropped from the ranges of 8-9 mpg with real gas (depending upon whether we were towing or not) down to 7-8 mpg when we used the ethanol stuff. I wasn't sure what had happened, but about 5 years ago when we were travelling south, I apparently filled up at a station which had real gas. Once back on the road, I immediately noticed on my dash computer the average mpg numbers began climbing to almost a full 1 mpg more! Terrain had been the same, so it wasn't a "you're going downhill" reason. The next fill up was with E10 and down came the numbers. You've got A LOT more miles on your rig than ours (about 40,000), so it is certainly possible you're having issues due to aging components. Just a thought. Good Luck, ~Rick
Rick Jay 08/05/19 11:22am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Can someone tell me what this is plz

I would say it's a water pump. When you turn on your waterpump, do you hear any noise coming from that pump? ~Rick
Rick Jay 07/31/19 03:45pm Tech Issues
RE: Where to put water pump

Don't worry I am on my own unregulated land and the shower /sink will only be used with non toxic 100% organic soaps and run out to a gravel bed run off. Sorry to rain on your parade, but most places do not allow dumping of gray water. If you're in Rhode Island, here is a document I found which states that Rhode Island does not allow it. http://www.dem.ri.gov/pubs/regs/regs/water/isdsregs.pdf I don't believe it matters whether you own the land or not, or where it's located. I'm not saying you won't get away with it, but if someone finds out about it, you could be in trouble. Is there a septic tank on the premises you could connect to? Or, if you could at least make it look like it's dumping into a cleanout with the dry well under the surface, it probably wouldn't draw any attention. The other thing I'm curious about is that I've never heard of ANY motorized RV that was designed without tanks of any kind. Seems odd. If it was me and you were going to move the thing, I'd just install fresh, gray & black water tanks and plumb to them. Or is this a different RV than then one you mentioned in this thread? Good Luck, ~Rick
Rick Jay 07/31/19 06:35am Travel Trailers
RE: Pop-up trailer for newbies.

Shearwater, I don't wish to rain on anyone's parade, but minivans are generally NOT good tow vehicles. I learned that 17+ years when we were looking to get into RV'ing and trying to find something to tow with our Odyssey. It quickly became apparent the Odyssey wouldn't tow what we needed for a family of 6. The family you're talking about is a family of 5, so perhaps a bit less of a problem. Most minivan's have a published tow capacity of about 3,500 lbs. However, that is with a single driver of average weight (150 lbs. or so). Add people into the van and all of that comes off the tow capacity. Add cargo and that comes off the tow capacity. When you connect the trailer to the minivan, the tongue weight is added to the minivan. The minivan's are front wheel drive, so putting the weight of a trailer on the back unloads the weight from the front of the minivan, lessening the traction at the front wheels. I'm not saying it can't be done, but you have to look at the weights very carefully. Seeing as they're already tent campers, they might be able to work with a minimalist solution. We knew we were going to be "sissy campers" and wanted more conveniences than anything could offer us that was safely towable by our Honda. As an engineer, I tend to read specs and limits and take them to heart and I didn't feel comfortable carrying my family in a vehicle which was operating near, or over, some of the specified limits of the vehicle. It might work fine 99% of the time, but during an evasive maneuver, it might make the difference between avoiding an accident and causing an accident. If they do go through with this idea, they should also investigate to see if they can add an auxiliary transmission cooler for their minivan. Honda made one for our Odyssey as part of their "tow package". I think that's a prudent step for any vehicle which will be towing. Don't get me wrong, minivans are GREAT. But they are NOT great at towing anything of substance. Oh, by the way, I HOPE they don't go as overboard as we did. We started out looking for something we could tow with our Odyssey and ended up with our Class A which tows our Odyssey behind. We've been thrilled with THAT solution for all of these years, but it did cause us to adjust our budget upward just a little bit!!! LOL :) Good Luck, ~Rick
Rick Jay 07/29/19 05:40pm Beginning RVing
RE: Interesting article: Tesla Semi Electric Motorhome.

Reisender, I believe they also may contain cobalt, which is a Hazardous Substance. ~Rick
Rick Jay 07/29/19 04:23pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Dipping my toe in the Class C waters, Which one

Quint Da Man, I've been letting others respond to this thread, but all I would like to suggest to you is that for your intended purposes, and especially if you're even remotely considering some of the "Super C's" mentioned, I think you owe it to yourself to check out Class A rigs. Depending upon your preferences, you should have lots to choose from in both gas and diesel models, and should be able to stay within your budget. Well, the diesels you'd most likely have to go with something a bit older than your stated preference. Anyway, just a suggestion. Generally speaking the Class A will give you more livable space inside for any given length, usually better exterior storage and larger holding tanks the E-450 based C's. However, if you are looking at the Super C's, that probably won't be the case. The important thing is to investigate all of the possibilities and do your research BEFORE you buy. I'd recommend going to RVTrader.com to get an idea as to what you can get for your money. Good Luck making your decision, ~Rick
Rick Jay 07/29/19 04:10pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: What's it look like under there?

Lic's Mom, I don't know anything about your specific motorhome, but I do believe there are some Class C's which have the freshwater tank inside the living area of the RV. Places that come to mind are in a dinette bench or under the bed. Is there a model number for your Freelander Micro? Location might depend upon the specific model as well. Hopefully someone can chime in with a bit more helpful info than I. :) ~Rick
Rick Jay 07/29/19 03:19pm Class C Motorhomes
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