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 > Your search for posts made by 'Rick Jay' found 111 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Air operated stairs not working.

Cindy and Steve, Welcome to the forums. I'm sure someone here will be able to give you some good advice. I have to say, I've never heard of pneumatic steps. I thought they were all electric. I learned something today. Thanks! :) For those on here who do know more about this, it might be helpful if you could tell us the model and year of your Newmar. We've got some pretty knowledgable folks here, so hopefully you'll have your answer soon. ~Rick
Rick Jay 10/20/21 05:30pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Safety question

I can get to my drain plugs & filters without jacking up the motorhome. If I'm just doing a routine oil & filter change, then I usually won't jack it up. If I want to perform a more complete inspection, then I'll jack it up to give me more maneuvering room. I don't bend so well anymore! LOL As others have said, always put jack stands under the rig if you do raise it up. The hard part is finding jack stands that will support the weight of the rig. IF I remove a tire (not an easy task on many class A's, the lug nuts on ours are torqued to 475 ft-lbs, and the tire/wheel probably weighs 150+ lbs.), I put the tire under the side of the chassis to give some added protection should a jack or stand fail. I do the same when working on my cars. Be safe! ~Rick
Rick Jay 10/20/21 05:28pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Tow bar options & instillation advice

Well, I don't have a lot of experience with this as I've only purchased the one in our signature, a Demco Aluminator, rated for 6,500 lbs. I think. I don't see it on their website any more, though. Around the 11 year mark of ownership and about 30,000 miles of towing our 4,500 lb. Honda Odyssey, I noticed two very slight cracks in the welds. I was going to have my cousin weld it up, but decided to call Demco to see what they said. They told me to ship it to them and they'd take care of it. So...I did. Not only did they reweld everything, but they rebuilt the entire extension/locking mechanism and shipped it back to me free of charge. I forgot the turn around time, but it seemed pretty quick. Maybe 2 to 2 1/2 weeks total. Considering ground shipping from Massachusetts to Idaho is 4 or 5 days, I was really impressed with their service. If I ever need to purchase anything else related to towing, I will most likely be going with Demco. By the way, I installed the base plate and tow bar myself, along with the brake controller. It took me the better part of a weekend to install it all, but I wasn't killing myself with the installation process, just took it easy on a lazy summer weekend with plenty of refreshment breaks! ;) ~Rick
Rick Jay 10/20/21 05:14pm Dinghy Towing
RE: Gasser guys and gals ...why not a diesel ?

Well, back in 2002 when we started our research, we were shopping for our first RV of any kind. We started looking for a small hybrid to tow behind our Honda Odyssey. After more than 2 years of research, we decided on a gas Class A which we use to tow our Odyssey. OBVIOUSLY, we went WAY OVER our original budget. But desire for adequate space for a growing family of 6 and my requirement that we have a rig which operated within it's chassis limits, ultimately put us in the gas Class A market. We ended up with the rig in my signature and 17 years later we STILL love the dual sofa/dual slide layout and it's worked well for our family for all of these years. It pays to do your homework, and we owe many folks on these forums a debt of gratitude for their advice during those years. Initially, when I mentioned "Class A" to my wife and told her it was the style that "looked like a bus", she immediately was turned off by the idea. Why? She thought all Class A's were diesel, and she didn't want a diesel (mostly the odor). When I explained that there are gas Class A models too, all was well. (I was fortunate in that she DID let me buy my diesel Kubota tractor 4 years earlier! :B ) But back then, family & friends thought we were crazy for spending that much money with a growing family (7, 3, 2 & 10 months) period. Let alone spending more. A decent quality diesel motorhome back then would've added well over $40k to our already over-extended budget. It just wasn't going to happen. I also noticed at that time that there WERE some diesel Class A's available which were only about $20k more. BUT...they were "cheapened" to attract those who only shop on price. I did look at a few of these. The cabinetry looked really cheap...much more so than our (upgraded) hardwood cabinets in our gas Class A, and they typically had a propane generator instead of diesel unit (a definite "NO" in my book), and they were on a "less than optimal" chassis. In general, the entire interior looked inferior to what we'd be getting with the gasser we selected. In other words, not really an "attractive" diesel option, in my book. We hope to keep our Class A gasser for quite some time, BUT, I am keeping an open mind and occasionally search the internet for a nicely kept 20-25 year old Prevost motorhome within our price range. I could be persuaded, at that point, to purchase a diesel. If the wife lets me. ;) But until that day, our gas Class A has been pretty much the ideal motorhome for our family and budget and I expect it to be able to continue in that role for quite some time. ~Rick
Rick Jay 10/19/21 03:28pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Finally !!!

Congratulations!!! It took us over 2 years to decide on our first RV, the Class A in my signature. We started looking at small towables to tow behind our Honda Odyssey and ended up with a 36' Class A which we use to TOW our Odyssey! LOL And like you, the great folks on these forums were very helpful as we decided what we needed. Seventeen years later and we still think it's about the best floorplan for our purposes (dual sofas, dual slide with 12 seat belted positions) and it's stood the test of time as our family has grown. When we bought the rig, our youngest wasn't even a year old yet. Now, he's 18!!! But the floorplan still works for us. The hard part now is finding a time to get out as a family as all of the kids are now working. Retirement is within my sights, so pretty soon it'll just be wifey and I hitting the road most of the time, and we intend to keep using the same rig. That is, of course, unless I stumble upon that nicely kept 20-25 year old Prevost that strikes my fancy! LOL :B Again, congratulations and enjoy! ~Rick
Rick Jay 10/16/21 01:13pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Camping in sub freezing weather

It sure would've been nice if the OP had given us an update. Apparently his only posts were on this thread. I hope he survived the trip!!! LOL :) ~Rick
Rick Jay 10/07/21 05:03pm Beginning RVing
RE: Motor home side yard cover

Hi Big Jimmy, Not sure how much I can help, but it would good to know a few things like... What region of the country are you in (i.e. expected weather)? Why do you want to cover it? Protect it from sun, snow, blowing debris? Are you thinking about a soft cover stretched over the RV or a roofed structure to park it under? Are you subject to any HOA restrictions? The fact that you were told "...if neighbors complain it has to come down" would be a cause for alarm for me. Any structure which will be solid enough to withstand wind and possibly snow loads, will probably be pretty substantial and therefore expensive. Putting up something cheap which could collapse on top of your RV could possibly cause more damage than whatever you're trying to protect it from. If the building inspector gives you a permit to construct it, would the neighbors be able to do anything at that point? I would think you could only get the permit for structures which are in accordance with local building regulations, so how could the neighbors protest at that point? I'm not sure that helps you any, but good luck. :) ~Rick
Rick Jay 10/04/21 08:06pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Where to get steering alignment done for a class A?

Hunk of Cheese, I didn't see it mentioned here, but do you have the tires properly inflated for the load that they're carrying? Some places just air up the tires to the max inflation pressure on the tire, but that is often times over-inflated for the specific tire & RV/weight combination. I know on our rig that gave a very poor (hard) ride and made steering a bit squirrelly, especially on rough pavement. It definitely sounds like you need an alignment, but make sure the tires are aired up properly as well, if you haven't done so already. That's an easy and inexpensive fix, especially if you already have weighed the rig ready for travel. Safe travels, ~Rick
Rick Jay 09/28/21 07:40am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Onan’s New Inverter Based Generators - Mike Mas

So, based upon the link Bruce Brown posted, it looks like this is a new line of small capacity inverter generators. I'm guessing they didn't have the inverter technology in generators of this capacity before this, or maybe these are just newer inverter technology. I'm not really an expert on the Onan line. But nothing in the Cummins release says this is their FIRST series of inverter generators, and the link posted by ScottG clearly states that the QD7500's use inverter technology, and I believe that line has been out for a long time for diesel rigs. Mike, with all due respect, I believe you're misinterpreting the information published by Cummins. ~Rick
Rick Jay 09/19/21 06:38pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Converted 2006 F350 Turbo Diesel Ambulance Motorhome

Hi, The workmanship looks great. I like some of the cool ideas you implemented to maximize the space. Unfortunately, most of these projects tend to be a "labor of love" and recouping what you put into them isn't always in the cards. I hope that's not the case for you, but just be prepared. I can see how a single traveller might be able to make this work, but for more than one, there is no privacy inside the rig. Travellers better be really chummy and get along well! Even then, some folks like to do their "bathroom thing" in privacy. And understandably so. Also, it looks like you have to extend the back to take a shower, is that correct? That's not very convenient in many locations, especially in inclement weather. Maybe out in the desert it could work, but even then, your subject to the outdoor temps...hot or cold. One of the biggest drawbacks of this conversion over a van conversion or a bus/Class A conversion is that you cannot access the living portion from the driver's seat without exiting the vehicle. THAT is a HUGE convenience for Class A, B & C RVs, and I would guess this will be a major draw for folks looking for a motorized RV. The ability to just get up, go grab a cold drink or use the potty without having to leave the vehicle is by far one of the key advantages of owning a motorhome over towing a trailer. I guess time will tell, though. The other thing I noticed...it looks like you have two propane tanks inside a sealed storage cabinet outside, is that correct? Is that legal? I thought propane tanks had to be in a vented storage space and are usually left completely open (underneath) in most motorhomes. My recommendation, though, is next time work on a van or small bus conversion. I think you'll have something that will be more marketable and better satisfy the wants of folks looking for a motorized RV. I wish you good luck in selling it. I'd definitely be interested to hear what sort of luck you have doing so. This IS a buyers market for RV's now, so I can't imagine a better time to try to sell something that is so unconventional. Best wishes! ~Rick
Rick Jay 09/18/21 08:51am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Wiring Short only under shore power

Hi, Are your dinette lights 12VDC or 120VAC? On our rig, they're operated off the 12VDC batteries. Does your rig have a transfer switch for shore power/generator use? On our rig, when the generator kicks in, the transfer switch connects the output of the generator to the L1, L2, neutral lines which feeds the AC breaker panel, just like the AC shore power cord does when the generator is powered down (transfer switch is off). So it's puzzling that it only happens when you're plugged into shore power. Unless you don't have a transfer switch. On Edit: According to your profile you have a 2012 motorhome, so it should have the transfer switch. So not sure what's going on in that case. Perhaps someone who is more familiar with the electrical systems on Monaco coaches can offer some help? :) Good Luck finding the problem. ~Rick
Rick Jay 09/17/21 07:55am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Class A Low Bridge Accident

The question I have is was it labelled on the other side of the overpass? On Edit: I see that there was a sign on the other side. (That is a great link, by the way. A very good report, compared to most.) But I can also see where it could be confusing as the sign on the other side is on an overpass that is obviously much higher than 9'9", and the RV made it under that one. From some of the pics, it also looks like the road has a slight downgrade from the direction the RV was travelling, which would serve to further obstruct the view of the lower underpass behind the front (higher) overpass. The driver might have been trying to figure out "What's up with that?" when they hit the lower 9'9" overpass. Not slamming the driver due to age, either, but that could've been a factor in trying to figure out what's what. Sad. In any event, I can see where this may not be as cut and dried as someone who was just trying to ram a 13' RV under a 9'9" overpass. Hopefully the folks will have a full recovery. Not sure about the rig, though. :-) ~Rick
Rick Jay 09/15/21 07:54am Class A Motorhomes
RE: What’s the normal CCC for a 30 ft. Class C?

Ron_forrester, The others have given good advice. It really does depend upon the rig, and also upon the era it was constructed. You didn't mention if you're looking for used or new. I remember when we were doing our research back in 2003/2004, the Fourwinds 28A or 28D models, which didn't have slides, had about 2,800 lbs. of cargo carrying capacity. We were a young family of 6, with dogs, so we knew we needed the CCC. Unfortunately, without slides, it didn't have the interior space we desired. I figured that with our family, we would need just about 2,500 to 3,000 lbs. of CCC. The Class C's with slides of that era just didn't offer what we needed. Also, keep in mind the the CCC number by itself is a bit misleading. There are individual axle weight limits which also need to be respected. On many Class C's, you'll reach the rear axle weight limit before you reach the GVWR (related to CCC). In other words, part of the CCC number is generated by the load capacity of the front axle, but it's hard to load the rig to add weight to the front axle. In fact, anything you put behind the rear axle unloads weight from the front axle and adds it to the rear axle. We ultimately decided to go with our 36' dual slide Class A in our signature which provided the space and weight ratings we figured we'd need. "Super C's" were not very popular then so they weren't really part of our research. But now they are. If you find yourself needing more space and weight capacity than the typical C's offer, take a look at the Super C's, as well as some Class A's. Good Luck in your search, ~Rick
Rick Jay 09/10/21 10:52am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Gassing Your Gasser

Great advice so far. Not sure if this has been said yet, but in my opinion, I will opt for a station with a higher price per gallon if the access is better. It's just not worth the heartache of possible damage, or even the stress of causing that damage, to save a few bucks. Usually I fill with about 50 gallons of gas while on the road. Even if the price difference is $0.20 per gallon, that amounts to about $10. That amount is trivial in the overall operating expense & vacation budget. Heck, $10 doesn't even feed one of the (fully grown) kids at MacDonalds! LOL While the cost is higher, many times the stations which are right on a major highway often have better access, too. You'll pay a bit more, but again, much lower stress. I start looking for potential spots about 50 miles or so before I really want to fill up. And even then, I'd have 20-25 gallons left in the tank. ~Rick
Rick Jay 09/07/21 08:34am Class A Motorhomes
RE: "Use Both Lanes Until Merge Point"

...yet there are still AW's who... AW's or AH's? :@ We talkin' "holes" or "wipes"? LOL ~Rick
Rick Jay 09/03/21 09:46am General RVing Issues
RE: Tips on asking friends for mootchdocking?

By the way, I got a chuckle out of "mootchdocking". I never heard that before! LOL I'm not sure if this was mentioned yet, if so, I apologize. You have to make sure that the place that you want to stay does not have restrictions about having an RV in the driveway. Other than that, I guess it depends upon your relationship with the people. We went up to visit my brother in another state. We're a family of 6. With a group that size, you can't just "drop in". LOL Anyway, their driveway was long enough to handle our 36' motorhome. The first time we went up there, we used a 20A 120V line to power the RV. We survived, but I've always said "Roughing it, for us, is not being able to use both A/Cs!" LOL. Next we went up (we were invited back, by the way! LOL) I asked if it would be OK to install a 50A 240V/120V on that side of the house. They said "Yes", I did, and that made future visits a piece of cake. A side story...they now use that outlet, with the addition of a GFCI, for their hot tub. ~Rick
Rick Jay 09/01/21 11:09am Beginning RVing
RE: Fuel leaking from within the generator

I don't believe the fuel line is a gravity feed. I say this because I believe the pickup tube comes out the top of the gas tank. I know it does on my rig (Class A, so it might be different.) That said, it IS a siphon issue. If there is gas in the line and you open the line (or a leak develops), the siphoning action will allow the gas to continue to flow until either the siphon is broken or the level of gas drops below the pickup tube. Which will also break the siphon action. Please be careful as your troubleshoot this problem. Make sure all of the leaked gasoline is cleaned up before you try to start the generator. Good Luck, ~Rick
Rick Jay 08/27/21 04:18pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Fuel leaking from within the generator

Whataday, WOW!!! THAT is a LOT of fuel to leak out. I'm not sure if your Onan 400 shares a similar design to our Onan Marquis Gold 7kWatt (also gas). I'm going back a number of years here, so hopefully my memory isn't too far off. I can tell you that originally my generator had two fuel filters: one right on the generator and another before the generator fuel pump. It was kind of strange, but that's the way they did it. Well, getting the fuel lines on the filter on the generator tight enough so they wouldn't leak was a bit of a trick. It was behind the air cleaner housing. If you completely removed the air cleaner housing assembly, you could generally get things tight enough. But if you tried to take a shortcut and not remove the air cleaner assembly, you couldn't get the connections tight enough and it would eventually vibrate loose and leak. I noticed mine leaking one time. This was a couple of weeks after I did the fuel filter change. It didn't leak immediately after I changed the filter. When I went to the local Onan parts distributor, he sold me a "new" filter kit. It only had the one filter that went down by the fuel pump and a little doodad (technical term) which permanently replaced the filter mounted on the generator. It was a short length of tube which had six sides (like a nut) so that it could easily be tightened with the air cleaner assembly in place. Apparently, the leaking was a very common problem, so they removed one of the filters from the system and replace it with this new part. Since this new "doodad" didn't have to be serviced, it minimized that leaking issue once it was installed properly. Here's a link which talks about the Onan gas fuel filters. Again, this was for the Onan Marquis Gold generators. Again, I have no idea if your 4000 series is similar, but if it is, perhaps that's the problem. Check to see if there is a filter mounted on the generator and if it's leaking fuel, or looks like the source of the leak. Perhaps your generator never got the update kit. Good Luck, ~Rick
Rick Jay 08/27/21 01:32pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: 2008 Jayco M-28 Quality

Snomas, This is a seller's market for RV's. I've heard of people of selling their RV's for what they paid NEW for them 2 years ago. That's unheard of!!! I don't think the NADA numbers mean much for anyone selling who has a pulse on the current market. I think things will get much better in a year or so, hopefully, when the many people who recently bought RV's for the first time realize they're a lot of work, and not any cheaper than other types of vacations. So if you can wait this out, it'll work in your favor. Remember that if you DO pay their asking price and the market softens up dramatically in a year and you need to sell it, you might have to take a substantial loss by selling it in the NADA range. You're the buyer, make a fair offer with the proverbial "cash in hand". It's up to the seller to accept it or not. Be prepared to walk away. If the rig is still for sale a week or so later, try again. Good Luck, ~Rick
Rick Jay 08/25/21 05:34pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Winnebago High beam replacement

Two travelers, The water is getting in from elsewhere. :) Perhaps a failed seal on the lens? Are the front lenses plastic like most are now? If so, the brute force way of dealing with the issue is to put the vehicle on level ground, use an 1/8" drill right in the center of where the water is collecting and drill through it from the outside. That should allow any water to drain out. Good Luck, ~Rick
Rick Jay 08/25/21 05:23pm Class A Motorhomes
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