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 > Your search for posts made by 'Rick Jay' found 109 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: 1983 Midas Kingston - free RV with a locked engine

Buckmeister420, Welcome to the Forums and good luck with the project. Do you have covered storage for this RV? If so, the roof condition probably isn't too important at this point. But if not, I would seriously consider making sure the roof was solid and water tight to prevent any water damage (or any further water damage) if there are leaks. I'm guessing that if the rig just sat, and no one has tended to roof in quite some time, there could be issues. I know you're focused on the engine, but in my opinion, the roof condition and any water leaks would be the FIRST thing I'd be concerned about. Again, Welcome and Good Luck! ~Rick
Rick Jay 05/01/22 10:42am Class C Motorhomes
RE: GAS CLASS A. Vs. Dually

How so? What is so different and magical about driving a poor handling bus vs a pickup pulling a trailer? Well, I guess the obvious answer is from the time you leave your driveway, you're in your RV with all of it's amenities available. For us, that was REALLY handy when travelling with the kids. But even for us adults, it's nice to have the potty, refrigerator and snacks available. I can attest that it IS a real feeling though. Once I get out of the driveway, I feel the vacation has begun! :) Well...I get an additional "tingle" if we cross the state line heading OUT of Massachusetts!!! ;) LOL Plus, I've arrived at enough campsites when it was raining to know that it's really nice to just be able to park and wait for the rain to stop before I had to go out and connect or disconnect anything. As for "poor handling", I'm not sure that can be universally applied to any type of RV/Tow combination. Our gas Class A is no sports car, but I don't really have any complaints about it's handling. I did upgrade the shocks after a couple of years, but other than that, it's a stock suspension. Different strokes for different folks, when we bought our rig new back in 2004 we had 4 young kids and a large golden retriever. A pick-up truck was not a solution for us, and wifey didn't like the idea of trading in the minivan for a full size E-350 van to tow a large trailer. So...motorhome it was! :B ~Rick
Rick Jay 04/20/22 05:29pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Rip off prices from RV Dealers

We both purchased the new valve system from a reputable dealership in the area for $56 with tax and installed it ourselves. Imagine how much you would've paid if you couldn't do it yourself? And they would probably take days or weeks to get to it, to boot! LOL In that sense, you got off cheap! :R Next year we will both due a better job and use the pink stuff throughout the entire system rather than simply blowing it out. I've never used the pink stuff in our water system. The manual which came with our motorhome states to blow the water out of the lines to winterize. So, I have always blown out the lines and never had a problem. Does your toilet also have a spray hose connected? You need to blow EVERYTHING out. You also have to make sure your air compressor can maintain the proper pressure and you keep each valve open individually until little, if any, water/mist is blowing out. I usually go around a second time to make sure, which only takes a few minutes after the initial blow out. I also engage and run the water pump with the compressor connected which I'm assuming blows out any water which might be kept in the pump. Again, never had an issue with the pump. I do usually put a bit of the pink stuff into each drain, but that's it. Never in the fresh water system. ~Rick
Rick Jay 03/29/22 01:03pm General RVing Issues
RE: Refrigerant charge amount, engine air

If your system is functional now, but not cooling fully, I would follow what dougrainer calls the "saturation method" and just slowly and carefully add more R-12 per his method and what I mentioned earlier in the thread. IF you ever need to open the system again, then you can replace the drier with one with a sight glass, but I wouldn't open up a functioning non-leaking system just to install one. If you have 15 lbs. of R-12, that should be enough to completely recharge that system 3 or 4 times at least. As an aid to get the R-12 gas to flow into the system, put the R-12 bottle in hot water for a while before hand and while charging. Or leave it out in the sun. This will build up the vapor pressure inside the bottle. You mentioned adding an electric fan. Not sure how it was done on that era vehicle, but I believe it's common for a vehicle to have an auxiliary electric fan that comes on with the A/C in addition to the normal cooling fan. This is to keep sufficient fresh (cool) air flowing through the condenser when the A/C is engaged. For what it's worth, when I do this type of work, I make sure the refrigerant bottle and what I'm doing IS NOT in plain view of the neighbors and/or from the street. No sense in getting folks curious about what I'm doing. ;) Good Luck, ~Rick
Rick Jay 03/26/22 06:59pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Refrigerant charge amount, engine air

atsrmf, Does the system need repair? Is there any R-12 in it now? If it's still functional and doesn't require any attention, you can just add more R-12. Of course, FINDING someone who can do that might be a bit of a challenge. Again, assuming the system is intact, do you know if you have a sight-glass in the system? If so, you can watch it and slowly charge the system until the bubbles disappear. If yours doesn't have a sight glass, then a proper set of gauges and the proper charts for that engine should get you close enough. If you're not sure of the graphs to use, then add the R-12 slowly and monitor the temperature of the cold air coming out of the (usually) center vent when it's set to MAX (usually). Charge a bit, stop...check the temp...wait a few minutes...charge a bit more...check the temp. If it went down, repeat the process. If it went up, then stop charging. Putting too much in will reduce cooling ability. BE SURE TO USE A THERMOMETER DESIGNED FOR A/C WORK!!! On the other hand, if the system needs to be repaired, it's been opened or leaking, then a conversion to R-134 is probably in order. Good Luck, ~Rick
Rick Jay 03/25/22 04:52pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Buying property and renting an rv?

Rustedsmudge616, As others have pointed out, there is A LOT to think about even before taking the first real step. Are you planning on doing this in New Jersey? Or were you hoping to move out to the less populated areas of the country? The reason I ask is that generally, the further away you move from the populated areas, the less stringent the building codes tend to be. Here in the Northeast, there might be some communities which allow what you're trying to do, but I'm not so sure. A friend of mine had purchased a lot up in Maine, and it was in a pretty remote area, and he wanted to move his camper up there for several years until they were able to move out of Massachusetts and build a house on the lot. They were not allowed to do it. I forgot all of the specifics, but one of the stipulations is that a temporary structure (live his trailer) can only be lived in for 6 months of the year. Of course, the further you get away from civilization, the fewer people you're likely to attract. I can only guess that New Jersey is at least as restrictive as Massachusetts and the rest of the Northeast. I could be wrong, and would LOVE to hear if you found some communities which would allow you to implement your plan. But even WITH that, the others have pointed out so many other issues you'll have to address. In my humble opinion, I don't see much, if any, profit in this scheme. I think you'll be lucky if you bring in enough to cover the land costs, taxes and fees, let along maintenance, upkeep and insurance, etc. Interesting thought, though. Let us know what you find out if you continue to pursue this idea. :) ~Rick
Rick Jay 03/14/22 07:05pm Beginning RVing

... the issue is the dealer won't give me ANY information up front .... Just my $0.02....but IF the dealer won't give you any information BEFORE you buy, what hope should one expect to get any help from them AFTER you buy? I'd just walk away from this dealer. There are other motorhomes and better dealers out there. And with a few more months of high gas prices, there's going to be A TON more available at reduced prices (from today). Patience may be your friend. Good Luck, ~Rick
Rick Jay 03/10/22 09:35am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Best 22.5 tire for 22,000 lb motor home?

I had Michelin's on our rig from the factory and they easily lasted the first 11 years of our rig with no issues. However, when it was time to replace them before our upcoming long trip, I opted for Toyo's. I really didn't notice any real difference in ride or handling, and as others have said, they're quite a bit cheaper. ~Rick
Rick Jay 03/06/22 11:44am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Pre trip preparations...

Desert Captain, Good Luck on your trip. I envy you. We probably won't be leaving the driveway until at least June...if even that. The rig really hasn't moved in the past 2 years or so. Wifey & I have been sleeping in it most nights, though, so most systems are being tested occasionally. And yes, it's expensive to run the electric heaters...but I've become an expert on how to keep the water flowing in that rig down to sub-zero temps! ;) We're giving the kids practice to live in the house on their own! LOL Safe travels!!! Also will change my tire psi. Please take their entire recommendation to heart. You don't just "change" the tire pressure. You need to weigh the rig as loaded ready to travel. Individual corner weights if possible, but that's usually not too easy to do. The next best is to get each axle weight. Then use those weights to find the proper pressure from the tire manufacturer's website. I don't believe you've informed us of the chassis or size of your RV. Please weigh it first, then adjust the pressures, though if you're the typical E350/E450 Class C, having the rear tires at 80 psi seems to be a common requirement/recommendation for the longer (28') rigs. But it really depends upon the size and weight of your rig. Good Luck, ~Rick
Rick Jay 03/05/22 04:46pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Weigh Station ??

Bet if it happened like that it took a lot longer for the driver to prove to the confused LEO there was no reason to cross the scale. Might even involve a court date if cop was behind on citations. Possibly, though I would think a look at the vehicle registration would quickly reveal whether the vehicle was registered as a commercial vehicle or not. Carrying just your wife/family members as passengers might be a good supporting argument as well, as well as it being filled with all of the family's personal effects. Now....if a bunch of "Rock Stars" come filing out...that's a different story! ;) I just think this is statistically a non-issue. IF I ever get "stopped" for not going through the weigh station I'll plead my case and hope for the best. I might exceed the posted speed limits from time to time, as well, but I like to live dangerously! LOL ~Rick
Rick Jay 03/02/22 09:43am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Weigh Station ??

I personally saw a DP MH get run down by a LEO that came out of an open scale when it tried to drive past it in Michigan. I won't argue what you saw, but there could be an explanation. Almost 12 years ago, there was this post on these forums about "Private Coach - Not for Hire" signage. Seemed to be a lot of conflicting views then, too! :) I have seen signs such as "Private Coach - Not for Hire" or some such verbage prominently displayed on the side of high-end DPs. I believe tour buses and such are considered commercial vehicles and DO have to stop at the scales. So folks who own these high end DPs which are often indistinguishable from the tour buses while on the road incorporate such signage to make it clear that their RV is NOT a commercial vehicle. Perhaps what you observed was an LEO who was unclear as to whether the RV in question was private or commercial? In that case, the only way to know is to pull it over to verify. It doesn't necessarily mean that the LEO's were pulling over ALL RVs which passed the weigh station. ~Rick
Rick Jay 03/02/22 06:09am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Class A fleetwood discovery - should we purchase ??

tourusa, I'm a bit puzzled as your profile lists the following RV for you "Fleetwood discovery 39s 2004" with 78k. Is THIS the one that's in your profile, because your profile seems to suggest it is your current RV. Did you already buy it? With all of the issues, unless there's something I don't know, I have to side with those who suggest you run away from this as quickly as possible. UNLESS you get it for near nothing and can fix it up yourself. But even then, there is A LOT of work to be done. Plus, IF there's a problem with the roof, there could be all sorts of hidden water damage you don't even know about yet. I'd keep looking. There are too many good rigs out there and with gas & diesel prices climbing higher daily, I believe there will be many more to choose from very soon. Good Luck! ~Rick
Rick Jay 03/01/22 11:49am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Weigh Station ??

Hi, I always thought that the weigh stations only applied to commercial vehicles. So item #3 in the "Weigh Station Rules" link posted above states: "Passenger or specialty vehicles that weigh over 10,000 pounds must stop for weighing in Arkansas, Georgia, Louisiana, Massachusetts, Nevada and Pennsylvania." Having lived in Massachusetts all of my life, I can't remember even SEEING a weigh station here, let alone it being open. Most of the ones I've seen in New England (Maine, New Hampshire, Vermont, Massachusetts, Connecticut & Rhode Island) that are still there are closed almost 100% of the time we go by. And in my opinion, there are very few of them in New England to begin with. I'm sure an over the road trucker would be able to chime in with more experience here. As for checking if we were over the weight of our tires for safety.... Is that even a possibility? Most of the weigh stations I do see usually have the trucks rolling along and not even stopping. How the heck could they weigh an RV and then make a determination that it was over its axle ratings or tire ratings and was a safety concern. I always assumed that the commercial vehicles had maximum weight ratings specified by the D.O T. for the type of truck and number of axles. They didn't check to see if the rig was "safe" carrying that weight. But I could be wrong, and would love to hear from those with more experience with this. Both from RV'ers and OTR truckers. ~Rick
Rick Jay 02/26/22 02:52pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Not for us

Alex and Tee, Glad to hear you figured out what you both liked, and it looks like it didn't cost you too much. It sounds like you are living very comfortably at this point in your life and you know how to enjoy your money. That's great!!! :) Life's too short and none of us know how much time we have left. I've always said that there are two types of people in this world...."RV People" and "Hotel People". It's usually rare that folks enjoy both, and there's nothing wrong with either. We knew from early on that we were not "hotel people". I LOVE to fly, but absolutely HATE the hassle of an airport. I've been on a couple of cruises, too, which were nice. But for the money spent and the hassle of getting to the ship and boarding, I just kept thinking that "If we were in the RV, we could have seen SO MUCH MORE and been gone for SO MUCH LONGER!". But our financial situation is obviously not the same as yours, so we live within our means and enjoy our money best as we can. In the end, none of us can take it with us, so we might as well enjoy it while we're able to....and before the gosh-danged revenooers get it! (As "Snuffy Smith used to call 'em....yup...I'm that old! LOL) ~Rick
Rick Jay 02/22/22 11:19am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Advice on unique oppotunity

Hi, I'm 99% sure if it was me, I'd go with the Bigfoot. There is only one major thing and a few "nitpicks" that might cause me to reconsider the decision, and even then, I'm not so sure I still wouldn't jump on it, especially if the price was right. The Bigfoot brand & reputation plus the heavier diesel chassis make a pretty tempting combination. I noticed in the Bigfoot brochure that the Diesel chassis motorhomes were available with either an Onan propane (LPG) powered generator or the diesel powered generator (Quiet Diesel), both rated at 5.5 kW. My preference for an RV generator is that it use the same fuel as the engine of the motorhome. If you use the generator a lot, a propane generator can be a pain as it will require a lot of frequent propane refills. On the other hand, if you don't use the generator much, then it probably won't make much difference. For us, we tend to run the generator most times we're on the road (either for A/C or heat) to keep the family comfortable. So used in that way, an LPG generator wouldn't be ideal for us. The other thing I see that might be a bit bothersome is that it looks like you'll lose access to two(?) kitchen drawers when the slide is in? Maybe a cabinet door under the sink, too? Can't tell for sure. And access to the kitchen sink will be a bit encumbered as well. When we travel, we like access to everything in the kitchen without putting out the slide. Both rigs have split baths, and while not my preference, IF I had one in my motorhome, I'd prefer a layout similar to your current rig, which I believe has the sink and the john on the same side of the aisle, and the shower opposite. I think the Bigfoot has the john and the shower together. And I'm REALLY nitpicking now, but personally I'd prefer a dinette (which looked to be an option on the Bigfoot) to the folding table & chairs shown on the brochure. But if that rig has a Quiet Diesel model generator, I'm pretty sure I could live with the other possible issues. Good Luck and be sure to let us know what you decided! :) ~Rick
Rick Jay 02/19/22 05:52am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Gas pump keeps clicking off and slowly fills gas tank

Our rig sometimes does that. It seems to be more likely to do so after being on the road for sometime (6+ hours, summertime). So I always wondered if it was related to the gas in the tank being hot and the vapor pressure being high. The issue usually seems to resolve itself after I can get about 15 gallons or so into the tank, which I figured cooled the fuel down a bit. Seeing as the slow fill issue doesn't happen too often, it makes it a bit more puzzling and difficult to figure out what's going on. (I've EVEN been tempted to blame this dang "ethanol" gas they force us to use as being the culprit, though I doubt that it has anything to do with it. Though....I don't remember ever having this issue back in the early days we had the motorhome, before 10% ethanol was required.) That said, I HAVE found at times, as others above have pointed out, that rotating the fill handle can often solve the problem and filling resumes as normal. I don't know if this is because it allows better venting out the fill pipe, or if the gas "sloshes" differently down the fill pipe, but it seems to work. I keep telling myself that "one of these days" I'm going to see if I can figure it out. I have looked at the filler area and don't see anything obviously wrong. But....one of these days....LOL ~Rick
Rick Jay 02/09/22 11:45am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Winnebago Destination

Sargehut234, Gas pushers are sort of a rare beast. Do you have more info on which year and model you're interested in? If it's an older rear engine rig you're looking for, why not just go with a DP? ~Rick
Rick Jay 02/05/22 11:12am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Leveling site for seasonal camping

Hi, Welcome to the Forums!!! We don't have a TT, and we've never had a seasonal site. But....I'll give you a bit of what I've observed over the past 18 years of RV'ing. Way back then...I was a newbie to the RV world and these forums! Anyway, is this a "seasonal site" where you will park your TT there the entire year? I've been at campgrounds and the seasonal sites often have decks, sheds, driveways, landscaping and many other improvements to their sites. I'm assuming that ultimately that's up to the rules of the campground to determine what you can do on the site. As for leveling, I'm assuming your TT would have stabilizers on it to sturdy it. My understanding is that you're not supposed to use those for "leveling", just for stabilizing movement when walking inside. However, I think the vast majority of folks just either use block(s) under the tires or jack stands under the axles if they want to level for longer periods. If you're going to be using the TT for other trips during the season, leveling blocks under the wheels will probably be more convenient. If you're going to park it for the entire season and maybe year round, then putting it on jack stands will take the weight off the tires. Perhaps, if you use jack stands, you could level out and put 2"x12" P.T. lumber under where the jack stands will be placed and level those blocks before positioning the trailer. Granite slabs seems a bit excessive, but if that's what you want to do, it should be fine. But then you'll have to make sure you get them in the right spot, and then position the trailer in the exact spot later. I guess you could level out a larger area to give you some leeway. So...there you have it...TT advice from a Class A owner!!! LOL Hopefully the real experts will pipe up with some great advice for you. Again, welcome, and I hope to see you around the Forums! ~Rick
Rick Jay 02/04/22 05:34pm Beginning RVing
RE: 97 CC Affinty NADA value

Ok, first of all, Welcome to the Forums. I hope you stick around. You can learn A LOT from the fine folks here. I’m paying within $6,000 of that amount today in 2022. The tense of this puzzles me a bit. "I'm paying..." suggests to me that you have negotiated a deal and have arrived at a price. If so, that suggests to me that there's not much to do at this point. If instead you said you found a coach and they are "asking within $6,000...", that would suggest that you're trying to or thinking of negotiating a deal. Then you could have some leverage to possibly work towards a lower price. Within the past 2 years, RV prices have gone through the roof because of limited availability, so the price of used units were way up, too. My understanding is that now things are getting better. It's possible that perhaps they are trying to get the high price which would've been asked last year, hoping to snag someone. It's hard to tell at this point. It's their rig, they're free to ask what they want. It's up to the buyer to determine what it is worth to them. Off hand, I would say that the price sounds high, but without knowing ANYTHING about its condition and the current prevailing market in your area, I can't say. As was mentioned, a good, thorough inspection would be valuable before negotiating a price if you're serious about the coach. Good Luck, ~Rick
Rick Jay 02/04/22 05:17pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Stolen Catalytic Converter

That would make an electric fence module or welding / engraving pretty useless. But assuming they're not wearing gloves, they'll most likely grab onto the exhaust pipe to help stabilize the tool and/or their cutting position. Giving them a good jolt when they did so would provide a bit of a "feel good" aspect for me. :) YMMV. ~Rick
Rick Jay 02/03/22 10:39am Class A Motorhomes
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