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 > Your search for posts made by 'Rick Jay' found 102 matches.

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RE: Electronic failures, PCB repairs.

Ditto what ScottG said. I'm an EE as well. What frustrates me to no end is when relatively simple circuit boards are potted (filled/covered) with epoxy so they can't be worked on. But if your board has everything accessible, then that makes it much more likely to be repairable. After solder joints, the next common culprit is either bad connectors (or broken wires at the connector) or relays which no longer work. ~Rick
Rick Jay 11/08/19 10:43pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Where Fill Trans Fluid ?

You probably already know this, but in case you don't, that transmission should be filled with Transynd synthetic fluid from the factory. Make sure whatever you use is compatible (TES 295) with that. ~Rick
Rick Jay 10/17/19 12:22pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: New to class A

We have a 2011 HHR that weighs in at less than 4000 lbs., therefore does not need an extra braking system. For the sake of the newbies, I think you need to be careful with a statement like that. IF your coach is either a Ford or Workhorse gasser, it most certainly IS supposed to have an auxiliary braking system installed per the chassis manual from the manufacturer, once your towed exceeds a specific weight. (I think it's 1,500 lbs.) I'm not talking about State regulations, I'm talking about what the manufacturer of the chassis specifies. In my opinion, they're a more knowledgeable source about our motorhomes than the State. If your rig is a diesel, then the requirements may be quite different. But still, I think it's wise advice to follow the chassis manufacturer's requirements. In other words, one cannot make a blanket statement about the requirement for supplemental braking based solely on the weight of the vehicle being towed. ON EDIT: Assuming your rig is on the more common F-53 chassis, Scroll to Page 34 of the F53 Owner's Manual. QUOTE: "The towing vehicle braking system is rated for operation at the GVWR, not the GCWR. Separate functioning brake systems are required for safe control of towed vehicles and trailers weighing more than 680 kg (1,500 lbs) when loaded." Workhorse is similar. Again, if you have a diesel, it'll probably be different, but it needs to be researched. Now, IF your toad PLUS your rig fully loaded weighs in less than the GVWR, then you are correct, and an auxiliary brake system is NOT required. However, I can say with reasonable certainty, that is a very, very small fraction of all gas motorhome setups. Most push the GVWR just being loaded for travel, forget about adding the toad weight. jets80, My recommendation is to find a vehicle you like which can be flat-towed, buy it and use it. Yes it's an expense, but the convenience is well worth it. Good Luck, ~Rick
Rick Jay 10/05/19 02:13pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: To Buy or build

way2roll, That's a pretty ambitious project, and considering you don't have the space available to work on it, I wouldn't even consider it. That said, your friends "custom Sprinter"....has he brought it to the scales to have it weighed? I've read many things about the Sprinters, and a common issue is that they are very low on available cargo carrying capacity. If your friend built it like he'd build a house, without any consideration for the weight of the materials used, he might be VERY overweight. In my opinion, that would be unsafe. Again, in my opinion, that would quickly take the bloom off of THAT rose! LOL Obviously, if you work on converting a larger chassis which has ample weight capacity this probably won't be a concern. But then we're back to the lack of space. In my opinion, and what I'm thinking about, is to pick up a nice, 20 year oldish , low mileage, well cared for, high-end Prevost or similar when I'm ready to retire and do some serious travelling. Personally, I'm not worried about the "green" thing, but maybe you can convince your wife that by purchasing a used motorhome, you're actually doing a GREAT thing by getting more life out of everything that went in to create it. The ULTIMATE recycling. You're not using ANY new materials, unless you make some mods to the existing layout. Good Luck, hopefully things won't get too heated! :) ~Rick
Rick Jay 10/01/19 10:35am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Help with a value please! Looking to purchase...

just_justin, Keep on searching. :) We started our search looking for a small tow behind for our Honda Odyssey back in 2002. Then looked at travel trailers to pull with a full-size van, then looked at C's, and were almost sold, except couldn't find one with enough cargo carrying capacity for our crew of 6 with the space we wanted. We ultimately ended up with the Class A TOWING our Odyssey as in my signature and have been very happy with that decision ever since. My point being, take your time and do LOTS of research, just like you've been doing. The folks on this board were absolutely instrumental in helping us make decisions over the 2 year process to finally purchase our first RV. We started as complete newbies so we needed a lot of guidance. We still have that RV, so it does pay off to buy the right one the first time. I think you're starting to get a good handle on what to look for. A good floorplan is probably on the top of the list, but then chassis considerations (weight, towing, etc.) also come into play. Keep up the research and don't be a stranger! The wealth of knowledge on these forums is amazing. Sure, a couple of us might get "grumpy" from time to time, but take everything with a grain of salt and you'll learn plenty. Good Luck on your search! ~Rick
Rick Jay 09/16/19 01:05pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Vent fans and a/c at the same time

I would think it would help for initial cool down to get rid of most of the heat, but once the interior temp drops much below the outside temp, I'd shut off the fan. As other have said, the air being exhausted will be replaced with warm, possibly humid, outside air, so there's no benefit to that. Without any testing to backup my claims, my fans allow me to run the fan with the vent CLOSED. This might be helpful in "stirring" the air somewhat, though, I've never used them for this purpose. When spending the summer in Florida a couple of years back, we DID have a small box fan blowing cool air from our bedroom down the hall into the main living area of the RV up front during the hottest parts of the days. THAT made a difference. ~Rick
Rick Jay 09/15/19 07:29pm General RVing Issues
RE: Help with a value please! Looking to purchase...

just_justin, I just want to make sure you have the right info while you're making your decision. and as far as the frame/extensions, that's why I wanted a 450, frame is 1 piece all the way back....there are no extensions, 350s stop right behind axle and the rest is pretty much body. The ...towing capacity and therefore GCWR is determined by the engine, trans and rear axle/gearing. An E450 with the 7.3 can most certainly tow more than an E450 with the V10. Motorhome or not... Frame Extensions: I believe all of the longer E-450 RVs have frame extensions behind the rear wheels over the stock chassis. There may or may not be extensions to lengthen the wheelbase. The E-450s may not require the extensions to lengthen the wheelbase, but there most likely are extensions behind the rear wheels. The towing capacity is what the manufacturer says it is. Engine, transmission & gearing are part of the equation, but frame, brakes and suspension considerations may come into play as well as the actual hitch rating. To the best of my recollection, the diesel E-450s were rated EXACTLY THE SAME as the V10 E-450s as far as towing capabilities were concerned. Again, going from memory, they were 14,050 pounds GVWR and 20,000 lbs. GCWR for the E-450's. Like I said, the diesel might give you a better towing "experience" in some situations, but that's about it. The numbers don't improve, other than perhaps MPGs. BUT, the fact that it comes with a propane generator would kill it for me. You'll be stopping for propane every trip so you can run the generator while travelling down the road to keep the AC cranking. Not worth it for me, which is why we stopped looking at the diesels back in our day. As others have said, though, you seem to be sold on it, so hopefully it meets your expectations and then some! :) ~Rick
Rick Jay 09/15/19 05:05pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Help with a value please! Looking to purchase...

just_justin, Like ron.dittmer points out, and I will agree, if it has a propane generator, the deal would be OFF for me. No way! I want a generator that burns the same fuel as the chassis engine. The other thing to realize, I believe the 7.3 was detuned for the van chassis over what was put in the pickup trucks. I believe that was due to cooling/radiator space or something like that. Also, the E450 chassis, especially on larger Class C's, can push the chassis weight limites. The diesel weighs quite a bit more than the gasser, so that uses up some of your carrying capacity. However, seeing as that weight is on the front axle, the front axle usually is underloaded in most E-450 RV applications, so it's probably not a huge deal. Lastly, is the diesel, in my opinion, gets you a better experience towing, but NOT more towing capacity. That's still limited by the chassis. And, it'll give you a better experience if you're running at higher altitudes due to the turbocharger, but again, how often will that apply to your use. And, of course, the availability of diesel is sometimes a bit harder to find at regular gas stations, but if you're not averse to refueling at truck stops, it shouldn't be a problem. WAY back when, when we were doing our research, when we were looking at Class C's, I wanted a diesel. However, after LOTS of research on the subject, I quickly learned that the V10 is quite up to the task of moving around a Class C, and the initial cost, having a generator & main engine that uses the same fuel, ease of finding stations to refuel really allowed me to cross the diesel idea off my list. Heck, that V10 is used in Class A's with 10,000 pounds more GVWRs. Oh....one more lastly :) Have you contacted your bank about this? I thought I've read posts about banks not making loans on RV's over 10 years old. Even if they do make such loans, they are likely to only loan the amount of the LOWEST value shown in the books. They don't care about options, diesels, or anything else, so be ready to cough up a lot of your own money to make up the balance. But, contact your bank and find out their policy. I believe people have said that their credit unions are generally easier to work with on purchases such as this, so keep that option in mind too! Oh, and I'd recommend keeping at least about $5,000 in reserve in a savings account should you have a major breakdown out on the road someplace. It sounds like you're "sold" on it, though, so good luck with it, should you decide to buy it. But in my opinion, it's WAY over priced. I'd offer him the lowest price in the NADA guideline, leave your number, and tell him to contact you when he's serious about selling it. Its half-past September and the camping season is rapidly approaching an end. He may be willing to really deal IF he doesn't want to keep it through the winter. Good Luck, ~Rick
Rick Jay 09/15/19 10:42am Class C Motorhomes
RE: building new campground

You all can debate it until the cows come home... Heh heh...dairy farm...cows come home...I see what you did there! Clever! :) LOL ~Rick
Rick Jay 09/08/19 01:33pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Brake problem

Well, I agree it could be the master cylinder, but if the fluid has never been changed since the rig was new, it is LONG overdue, and most likely has water in it. I would change the fluid first, and then see if the problem recurs. ~Rick
Rick Jay 09/08/19 01:29pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Brake problem

7.4 gas Work Horse Chassis didn't they have a recall ? I believe the OP's rig is on a P-series chassis. Not having that chassis, I'm not aware of a brake recall on that chassis. The brake recall I DO remember was on the W-22 chassis with the 8.1L. It might have also applied to the W20, but I'm not sure on that. ~Rick
Rick Jay 09/08/19 11:24am Class A Motorhomes
RE: building new campground

gasjarvi, I have no idea about this and I'm sure the laws vary from state to state, maybe even county to county, or town to town. But, what will happen to the tax assessment for the portion of property that is no longer being used for a farm? I know in our area, "farms" are assessed a lower tax rate but if the property is no longer farmed, I believe the owner has to pay what amounts to back taxes at the higher "non-farm" rates for the past 5 years, or something to that effect. It's more complicated than what I mentioned, of course, and hopefully your area isn't as bad as ours, but it would be something to look into as you do your planning. As an RV'er, I like the concept, and would take advantage of such a place, but 8 miles is a bit of distance from the highway. But seeing as you are in a scenic area, it just might work out. Good Luck, and please let us know what you find out. :) ~Rick
Rick Jay 09/04/19 01:45pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Need help with dimmer switch

Hi, Another question: The dimmer you purchased, is it for 120V lighting circuits or 12V lighting circuits? Can you post the make and model number of the dimmer switch? ~Rick
Rick Jay 09/01/19 06:13pm Tech Issues
RE: Onan Microquiet 4000 Won't Turn Off

Hmmm...well, I don't know anything about the specific wiring of your generator, and I'm sure it'll depend upon the age & model of your generator, but the majority of the small engines I've worked on shut down by providing a ground to the ignition circuit. I'd look carefully for any ground wires or connectors associated with the generator and clean them up to make sure all connections are clean and tight. Good Luck, ~Rick
Rick Jay 08/30/19 01:55pm Tech Issues
RE: I didn't buy an RV

Hmmmm...campground lake (or pool) or a river filled with piranhas? I'll take the campground! :) Well, whatever floats your boat, literally. We've always found our fellow camper neighbors to be very friendly. Have fun! ~Rick
Rick Jay 08/30/19 10:30am Beginning RVing
RE: 2006 Excursion

Another possibility. My uncle has a Norcold 4 door fridge in his 2007 Winebago Voyage. Maybe yours is similar. Anyway, there was a modification performed in which a small black box was added to the system and mounted on or near the burner tubes and it's supposed to shut down the fridge in the case of an overheat condition. I believe this was a recall due to a fire hazard. Anyway, that black box is apparently susceptible to tripping IF water is splashed onto it. This can be because of heavy road spray or washing the rig and the water is shot into the exterior fridge access panel. I know his module has a red LED on it, but I forgot whether it's on all the time or if it turns one when the module is tripped. I guess the latter makes more sense, but I honestly don't remember the situation. The module can be reset by putting a STRONG magnet near the module and I think you have to hold it there for a couple of second. IF the LED was on, it should go off...and vice versa. Sorry I don't remember more. I haven't had to do it for a couple of years. I think he had to do it several times as I guess the location his was mounted was susceptible to getting splashed. Oh...I would also recommend that you edit the subject of your post to include Norcold 1200 and NoCo to get more attention. Good Luck, ~Rick
Rick Jay 08/30/19 10:19am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Prepping for sale

Veebyes, In my opinion, I doubt you'll be able to get any extra from the sale of the RV if it has all of these extras. As to whether all of that will attract or deter potential buyers, I think that will depend upon the buyer. Hear are my thoughts. Personally, as someone who has had our first motorhome since 2004, I would appreciate the spare parts & tools, but not so much camping gear as we already have that stuff. However, yours might be better than what we have, so that could be my decision. Extra chairs, grill, etc. could always be put to use at our regular house or given away to friends & family. But to be honest, I would see these as "added perks", not something I'd be willing to pay extra for, or not too much, anyway. (And yes, I too, carry a spare water pump with me. It's the difference between having water flowing in 15 minutes and waiting hours or days.) I suspect other seasoned RV'ers might be similar, as they KNOW things will break and if they've been doing the maintenance on their own rig, they'll appreciate getting a head-start on the spare parts base. At this point, they most likely don't know what they're getting into. As to complete newbies, as we were back in the early 2000's, I would think they would appreciate the camping paraphernalia as they probably have little. However, I think that most might be deterred if there were too many tools or spare parts available. Maybe a few, but most of them don't fully realize that there will be maintenance that needs to be done. In fact, I think we can split this pool of potential buyers again. Those who do or will do their own maintenance, would see more of a value on parts & tools. Those who don't know which end of a screwdriver to hold will definitely NOT be impressed with tools & spare parts, and most likely would be deterred. For all of the above, I would expect that things be neatly organized in bins & plastic boxes (for smaller items) with labels. If it looks cluttered and unorganized, that looks like you just want them to throw your stuff away for you. Knowing you'll be on a tight timeline, perhaps you might just list the rig itself in any ads you place, and perhaps a slight mention that standard items needed for camping are happily included in the price. You can decide what those might be. But don't list too many as to deter those who might already have chairs, a grill, mat, or whatever else you list. Once you have potential buyers, you can hopefully get a better sense as to whether or not they're seasoned RV'ers, or novices, and adjust your sales pitch and the included items based upon that. Some people are minimalist and probably won't want anything. Others, like us, tend to be "hoarders in training" :) and would probably take anything of value IF we thought someone could use it. (I HATE seeing things go to the landfill that still have some life left in them. Hmmmm...maybe you should advertise it as a "Hoarder's Special". LOL ) Whatever isn't taken, hopefully you can donate it or just pay to have it all disposed of properly. Good Luck, ~Rick
Rick Jay 08/26/19 08:11am General RVing Issues
RE: replacement of catalytic converter

I would second the idea to check the mounting points of any shields on the exhaust system. While the exhaust pipes tend to last a long time, whatever fasteners they use on those shields tend to rust away in about 10 years. Both of our cars have had this issue, and I've had to secure a couple of friends & relatives heatshields over the years too. So far, our moho hasn't been a problem here...yet. If the shields all seem to be mounted securely, then I guess it is the cat converters. Your rig is about the same year as ours. How many miles on yours? So far, ours still look (and sound) solid. But, we've only got about 45,000 miles on it (I think?). The cats should last a long, long time, so you might want to follow theoldwizard1's advice and do some investigating to make sure the engine is running properly. Good Luck, and be sure to let us know how you make out. ~Rick
Rick Jay 08/25/19 09:06pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Sink covers on or off

We keep them off and stored below the sink in the space provided for them. Similar for our stove top covers. Actually, we rarely use our sink covers. We'll pull one out if we do need a bit more counter space, but our rig has a somewhat usable area for a counter. Our counter is "Corian", but it's so thin that it can be damaged if not properly cared for. The stove and sink covers are also Corian. The manufacturer has a space under the sink with a strap to secure them when in motion. We learned our lesson the hard way. One time we left the stove top covers in place and hitting a pothole with just the right speed and lay of the road and sway of the rig, the front stove cover slid off and hit the floor, breaking off a piece of the molded edge. It was mostly fixed and unnoticeable now, but we learned and now store them below. What we weren't able to fix was the little "dent" it put in the hardwood floor in front of the stove. Here in the Northeast, there ARE no smooth roads! LOL :) I suspect those who have DP's with air-ride suspensions aren't subject to the same forces as a normal sprung chassis. We're not in that group, so we store them. :) ~Rick
Rick Jay 08/25/19 11:50am General RVing Issues
RE: Modifying roof a/c cover

Hmmmm....I have the "low profile" A/C units and shrouds on our rig and there are NO louvers cut in the covers at all and the A/C's seem to run fine. I'm assuming the designers had some idea of what they were doing and I like the lower profile. That said, and expanding on prichardson's comment, for this mod, the problem that comes to my mind is that the back of the A/C shroud is most likely a "low pressure" area when the rig is travelling. Ever wonder why the back of your car, rig, van or SUV tends to get dirtier than the rest of it? When travelling forward, the back is a low pressure area that draws in road dirt, water, exhaust, etc. and deposits it on the surface. Even when you see vehicles travelling down the road in the rain, the low pressure area behind it tends to atomize the road spray, giving that "cloud of mist" right behind the vehicle reducing your visibility. One reason why it's nice sitting up high in the Class A...you see right over that. :) But I digress... My concern for this mod would be that when travelling and the roof A/C units AREN'T being used, will that mesh screen he made, with the smaller holes, tend to become plugged up quickly with deposited material? I realize that with the original louvers, some of that stuff made it through to the condenser, which is why it needs to be cleaned periodically. But about half of it was left on the structure of the louvers. That structure is now removed. With this mod, I'm guessing the condenser will stay cleaner, but that grill might need to be cleaned more frequently as it's now the first line of defense against the debris sucked in by the low pressure area. When the A/C is running, this probably won't be as much of an issue because the fan will be forcing debris out the grill. On a lesser, more technical note, I also am not 100% his anemometer readings can be completely trusted. With the original louvers, a large part of the anemometer sensor was over a louver, not a slot. A truly accurate test, in my opinion, would have to include the airflow through the entire louver structure in a "wind tunnel" sort of set up. I'm not saying this doesn't improve air flow. It might. On the other hand, I also know that fans draw air through a screen much more efficiently than blowing air through a screen, and what he installed there is borderline to being considered a screen. Again, I'd like to see the airflow numbers on a full mock-up, not just a single reading on a selected part of the screen. I'm sure for BOTH systems, you do not get constant numbers as you move the anemometer around the path of the airflow. Such being the case, it's pretty easy to make the result LOOK much better than they actually ARE. Actually, now that I think about it more, the aerodynamics and flow rates might change quite a bit while the rig is in motion due to the low pressure area created. In my mind, that casts even more of a doubt about the accuracy of the airflow numbers presented. Obviously this isn't an issue when parked, but at highway speeds, there might be some drastic differences in the airflow numbers. Anyway, take all of this commentary for what you will. It's just my $0.02 worth. I'm not sold that it actually would be an improvement, and might be a detriment. As I said, my A/C covers have no louvers and I'll stick with that. :) ~Rick
Rick Jay 08/24/19 10:05am General RVing Issues
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