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 > Your search for posts made by 'RobG' found 21 matches.

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RE: Graveside Boondocking?

It depends so much on the area. Here in Phoenix, you can't camp ANYWHERE except at a campground or well outside of town on BLM land. There are ordinances prohibiting any and all kinds of overnight parking anywhere. Same thing up in Reno from what I've heard. Maybe it's to prevent Walmarts from turning into transient camps, I dunno, but it's annoying. I suggest carrying a Ouiji Board if you're going to camp at a cemetery. That way if cops or anybody else asks why you're there, you can whip out the board (slowly, so you don't get shot) and tell them you plan to use it around midnight. :)
RobG 03/10/20 07:44pm Truck Campers
RE: Pop goes the water heater!

You're right -- my anode rod was aluminum. What the heck?? Why would they ship the WH with one, knowing it wouldn't protect it??
RobG 11/04/19 07:04am Tech Issues
RE: Pop goes the water heater!

Thanks guys. I'll admit I didn't pay a lot of attention to it; thought the anode rod thing was just an indication of "good" water instead of a problem. Oh well, live 'n learn. I will look at Atwoods instead. (pause) HOLY ****. The 10-gal Dometic XT is $850!!! At least that's the price on Amazon...
RobG 11/01/19 02:17pm Tech Issues
RE: Pop goes the water heater!

They say we have a lot of minerals in the water... fwiw the anode rod never did degrade over time like with my last water heater. It always looked like-new when I'd remove it.
RobG 11/01/19 10:42am Tech Issues
Pop goes the water heater!

I had a new water heater installed back in 2014. It popped two nights ago. I got up to the sound of water -- I actually thought it was raining. Upon closer inspection, it was water pouring out of my water heater. It made quite the flood outside. I shut off the water to it, and got a flashlight. The "tunnel" where the burner goes is all rusted out and collapsed. Despite ensuring a good anode rod, it appears that corrosion did the thing in. So now I have two choices: Replace it with another one, or go with an on-demand system. Cost is similar: About $500 for either. The on-demand system that people seem to be recommending is the Girard 2GWHAM. The water heater I'd use is a Suburban 10- or 12-gal unit. The trailer came with a 12-gal, but it got replaced with a 10 in 2014 (which I didn't know until yesterday; I thought it was another 12). In the meantime, I'm showering in my camper. Thankfully I have that as an option. Any suggestions? Any other (cheaper hopefully) on-demand units I can consider? Thanks. Rob
RobG 11/01/19 09:08am Tech Issues
RE: Seized valve cable

I'm having a similar problem with the black valve on my 5th wheel... BUT... the trailer is 13 years old and so is the valve. And I've lived in it fulltime for 12 of those 13 years. This started earlier this year and is getting worse. I can still get it open but it's very difficult and I'm worried about breaking it. I've torn into the underside of the trailer, and I can replace it, but just have to get around to DOING that. Until then, I love the ideas posted here about lubing the cable. I'm going to try those.
RobG 10/17/19 08:09am Truck Campers
RE: This is what happens when you have too much tongue weight...

WHY IS THIS SITE ASKING ME, A LOGGED IN USER, TO DO A CAPTCHA? I don't play that game (Select tiles containing "X").
RobG 09/23/19 10:03am Truck Campers
This is what happens when you have too much tongue weight...

https://i.imgur.com/wHe9Jkm.png Is this an old image? I've seen images LIKE this before, but not this one specifically. Oddly, they've all been on Fords too. I don't want to be "that guy" who posts something like this when the image has been out there for many years. :) How much tongue weight do you think he had? This is what I preach to people about towing big trailers behind big truck campers with long overhangs. I've noticed that a trailer that normally would have 1000 lbs of tongue weight now has 2000 lbs when you have a 48" extension. Notice too that it's a fairly late-model F450 with the newer 6.7L motor, so I'm thinking it's at least a 2012 or newer. Rob
RobG 09/23/19 09:19am Truck Campers
RE: My new to me camper.

The little ATV trailer with a quad on it is pretty light... but consider the lever effect of a hitch extension multiplies your otherwise low tongue weight (which I estimate at maybe 300 lbs) to more like 1200. So you're right -- unhook the trailer and you're closer to your proper weight. BUT, that means not towing. I would not want to risk going that far over on my tire ratings; that's one place you don't want to mess around. The last thing you want or need is a blow-out because of it, especially at freeway speeds. But, it's your stuff... if you want to risk it, that's up to you. BTW if you do have a blowout and it causes an accident, the cops WILL look at that sort of thing.
RobG 09/19/19 09:05am Truck Campers
RE: Big Brother- Tag on your TC?

If you drive a pickup, leave your tailgate down all the time. Your plate will be almost always be invisible to cameras mounted at any height. I remember specifically triggering a red light camera in Oakland many years ago... my tailgate was down, and I never got anything in the mail about a ticket.
RobG 09/17/19 12:30pm Truck Campers
RE: My new to me camper.

Your camper looks awesome! You've done a great job cleaning it up. I'm looking at your weight slip... 8060 on the drive axle. Look at the sidewalls of your new tires and see what the weight rating is. I looked it up on Tire Rack and it's 3415 per tire at 80 psi. That's 6830 lbs for both tires. You're 1200 lbs overweight. It's one thing to be over your axle weight (I do that every time I load my camper), but I NEVER exceed the tire ratings. I hate to be the one to break the news, but you need a dually or a much smaller/lighter camper. Your tires are overloaded, and despite being Michelins, will eventually blow out even if you keep them at 80 psi. They aren't meant for that kind of weight.
RobG 09/17/19 12:21pm Truck Campers
RE: Fridge in new camper not working...

Got home, checked the code. It's a Code 10, which is "not user serviceable." Something about "fridge has lost communication with controls" or somesuch. I have an appt for Sept 12th. The way this is going to go is that they will come out and go, "we need to order parts. All parts are back-ordered for two months," at which point I will politely demand that Northwood take back this thing (or find another way to fix it ASAP), because this problem should have been caught at the factory, OR, should have been caught by Norcold before the unit was shipped. I'm not going to sit here for weeks or months while a brand new camper is unusable.
RobG 09/05/19 07:35am Tech Issues
RE: Fridge in new camper not working...

Here's what I've figured out so far... The board in it probably needs a reset. OR, as others here have suggested, it might be bad. It also turns out the flashing red light on the fridge is displaying a trouble code. I didn't realize that until today while doing more research. So when I get home tonight, I'll see what it's trying to tell me and go from there. Rob
RobG 09/04/19 12:55pm Tech Issues
Fridge in new camper not working...

I picked up my new 2019 Arctic Fox 992 truck camper on Saturday morning. The fridge was working great on 110 while I was there. Once underway and on propane, every time I stopped, the fridge was blinking the red light saying it wasn't working. It's a Norcold 2-way 7cf unit. I kept re-starting it and it would run for a while then go back to blinking red. While it was operating, the freezer seemed good, but the fridge itself barely got anything cold. It did manage to run all last night while I was parked in a Walmart parking lot. This morning, the water bottles in the freezer were frozen solid just as I expected. The stuff in the fridge however, was barely cold. My little infra-red temp gauge said 45 deg on the back wall, and my cans of soda were at 50 deg. I got home midday, and by then the fridge was out again. I plugged into power (30A) and now the fridge won't work at all. It won't see 110, and in Auto mode it tries to switch to propane and can't light that either. I know propane is working because I've used the stove and water heater without issue, and the tank is still plenty full. I haven't bothered to look behind the fridge vent on the outside yet; thought I'd post here and email the dealer (which is in Colorado; I'm in Arizona) to see if they have any suggestions. FWIW I've had a Norcold in my 5th wheel for the 13 years I've owned it and it's always been great. It's never gone out while on the road and will darn near freeze your water in it during the winter if you turn it all the way up. Any ideas? Rob
RobG 09/02/19 09:29pm Tech Issues
RE: Hellwig Big Wig Rear Swaybar vs Torklift StableLoads (Lower)

Thanks!! I agree, the StabilLoads are a bit expensive. I wish I had heard of the wedges idea before buying the upper set that I have now. But I will add that Hellwig bar in the near future.
RobG 08/26/19 11:03am Truck Campers
Hellwig Big Wig Rear Swaybar vs Torklift StableLoads (Lower)

I'm finally getting another truck camper after many years of not having one... an Arctic Fox 992. Due to the higher weight (and height) of this camper compared to my previous one -- a 2000 Lance 1030, I'm looking for ways to make sure the truck is stable. I just added a fresh set of Bilstein 5100 shocks and new airbags (the old ones had worn out and weren't holding air anymore). I also added the "upper" Torklift StableLoads because they're just bolt-on and go... no drilling, no "disabling" when not needed, etc. Now I'm deciding if I should go with the Hellwig Big Wig rear swaybar (since the truck didn't come with one at all), or if I should get the lower StabileLoads. Or heck, BOTH! :) Thoughts? The truck is a 2005 Dodge RAM 3500 dually 4x4. Thanks! Rob
RobG 08/26/19 09:10am Truck Campers
RE: Eagle cap 1160 & Lance 1172 owners....

The Cascade is my favorite of the "huge" campers. I love the theatre seating option there opposite the big TV, and the L-shaped sofa/dinette. But I imagine all the Host campers are so heavy that you would HAVE to have a 4500/5500 series truck to carry it and still be able to tow. As it is, the new Arctic Fox 992 I'm getting actually weighs about 5200# wet and that's before putting my own stuff in it. Add 500-800 lbs for that and you're at 9600 lbs on the rear axle. Add a trailer with a 36" extension and you're in the 1000-1800 lb tongue weight range (due to the lever effect of the extension) and you're at or above the ratings for the tires -- Load Range E's are good for 11,340 all together. My old 2000 Lance 1030 (that I bought new) came in around 4500 lbs wet and full of my own stuff, based on before/after scale tickets without a trailer. If you Google "2017 Arctic Fox 992 Review" you'll find a Truck Camper Magazine review of it, and at the end, there's a detailed breakdown of the weights. I would not be surprised if these big Host campers would end up weighing upwards of 7000 lbs wet with personal belongings added.
RobG 08/15/19 08:13pm Truck Campers
RE: Eagle cap 1160 & Lance 1172 owners....

HAHA SWEET!! Thanks. I just signed a deal yesterday on a new 2019 Arctic Fox 992. I pick it up over Labor Day weekend. Have to go to Colorado to get it (which will be a fun trip).
RobG 08/14/19 01:40pm Truck Campers
RE: Eagle cap 1160 & Lance 1172 owners....

Anybody happen to know if Arctic Fox uses Schwintek for its slides?
RobG 08/14/19 01:13pm Truck Campers
RE: Eagle cap 1160 & Lance 1172 owners....

I'd pick the EC 1160 given the two. It has a wardrobe next to the fridge that the 1172 lacks. The 1172 has about the least amount of storage I've ever seen in a truck camper. Maybe that's why I see SO many of them on the used market. I used to love Lance, but I think they've really lost it the last few years.
RobG 08/12/19 07:07pm Truck Campers
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