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 > Your search for posts made by 'RustyMacIntosh' found 18 matches.

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RE: Ford F53 460 powered fan clutch options?

When I had the cooling system rebuilt on my 96 Bounder F53 460, they put in a heavy duty fan clutch. It came from NAPA. I can hear it coming on and off as we are pulling grades. Whatever you do, put the biggest badass radiator in you can find
RustyMacIntosh 08/30/20 04:41am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Converter box location 1983 southwind

my 96 Bounder which is made by the same company (I THINK) is located on the passenger side outside panel, to the left of the entry door. Its screwed to the inner wall. I just replaced mine, takes about 10 minutes, and 20 minutes to straighten out my back and butt after getting up off the ground.
RustyMacIntosh 08/25/20 05:46am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Swapping two AC's. Much of a job? Bounder 34ft

Going try that Mr Wizard. My plans are to drop a couple of thermostats and bypass the Intelltec unit, its never worked right since I have had this land whale
RustyMacIntosh 08/16/20 12:18pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Swapping two AC's. Much of a job? Bounder 34ft

OK let me call Dometic and see what I can hussle up, I have a feeling Fuzzy has had experience....
RustyMacIntosh 08/15/20 01:17pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Swapping two AC's. Much of a job? Bounder 34ft

GOOD INFO Doug, I will be working on this all weekend since the frustration level has gone off the end of the rail. I like my motorhome, its just a red headed stepchild. The travel trailer also built by Fleetwood has been a good unit, the AC is stone cold. IF I buy two units, two overhead AC's, are they pretty much plug and play to the Intelligent thermostat? Or do I need to purchase a overhead AC compatible...
RustyMacIntosh 08/15/20 11:59am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Swapping two AC's. Much of a job? Bounder 34ft

I also go out to work on my books. Yosemite National Park is where I caught Covid last Dec This dumbass unit has some electronic wall control that either need to bypass or toss the freakiing unit sucks but it is 1996 technology
RustyMacIntosh 08/15/20 10:56am Class A Motorhomes
Swapping two AC's. Much of a job? Bounder 34ft

I basically have just about given up on the factory AC units on this 34Ft Bounder, 1996. This weekend just about was my limit. I am having my 90yr old home tented for termites. So the dogs and I are--or were---moved into the motorhome. Front AC would not come on. Rear AC only works when I open the panel and set the Intelli-**** to REAR TEST. Then it only runs (compressor on) constantly. The generator started surging after a few hours and quit. Might be the cheap fuel pump I put on it. I do have a new replacement carb. I got 100 gallons of fresh gas in the tank. I tried tinkering but nothing. Runs for a while, maybe an hour then starts surging then dies. After popping the circuits in the house, and trying to run off generator, I gave up. SInce the house is tented I am stuck. So we moved into the travel trailer which has your standard Coleman AC unit. Crowded but at least in 100d plus weather it is cold in here. I mean actually it is nice. 110 today and I think we are at 70 in here. I love this little Mallard. Interesting to note is the Mallard will run on a 3500 wat generator but the motorhome wont. It acts like the compressors are stalliing. Not enough amps. SOOOOO Question is. I am tossing both AC units. I am tired of the Bounder shed wall thermostat not working. I cannot wait to toss it in the trash. Upgraded new AC units will be purchased. IF and when I buy two new AC's, standard dial connections at the unit, I would now need to wire in a thermostat for the furnace right??? Or is there another way around this. The wall unit rarely has worked in the past few years. The AC units will run on fan only but begin to skip on and off even running a 30amp connection. Then I find the rear unit compressor on but now the fan is off. Its fine to run on the "TEST" mode (only the rear works) but it runs solid with no cycling. 110 deg is fine, but at night it gets to the point of 100 below zero. I was told the Bounder wall thermostat was a problem from day one with these units. At 20 years it is long overdue for the trash can.. SO I want to put standard 15k units up top with manual controls. But what do I do with the furance? Is this easy to put a thermostat on the wall so it will run? Is it possible to put thermostats on the wall in the back for the AC? Not that I am being cheap but if there is a way around this silly Fleetwood Electronic Temp control thingy on the wall I am all ears.
RustyMacIntosh 08/15/20 10:27am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Converter might be dead--options

I ordered two, one for the MH one for the TT PowerMax PM4-100 amp Powermax PM3-60
RustyMacIntosh 08/12/20 05:45am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Converter might be dead--options

no converter, takes AC makes DC to charge my house batteries I THINK
RustyMacIntosh 08/11/20 01:08pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Converter might be dead--options

ebay sellers have everything from 35amp on up to 100amp. I have a 500 watt converter in my travel trailer and the Bounder has a 900 watt factory installed one. The Bounder is not putting out anything. I need to get this coach moved today. The men are due to come tent my home for termites. I put a battery charger on the front house batteries and engine battery. In ordering a new converter I went with the 100amp output thinking that while it is capable of 100 amps, the coach will never need anything that large. Should I reorder a 50amper??
RustyMacIntosh 08/11/20 05:51am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Converter might be dead--options

was working but when I got back from Kansas with the trailer the fridge was on gas, I started checking, found all the batteries dead new one on the way
RustyMacIntosh 08/10/20 02:51pm Class A Motorhomes
Converter might be dead--options

96 Bounder with a factory-installed converter that I am pretty sure is DOA> I found the batteries dead. Once I got a charger 6v going on the front cabin-coach batteries (2 6 v) and the 12 engine battery, things began to come back to life. I put a voltmeter at the red and white outlet wires on the converter, nothing. 0 nada. So I am ordering a 100amp unit off the internet. Any reason I cannot jump two heavy wires, red and white up thru the floor into the kitchen (which is directly above the converter panel), for use of a 3k or larger Inverter? I'm having my house tented for termites very soon and I need to move the motorhome away from the side of the house. The cats, dogs and golfish and I will be front-yard camping. But the batteries were dead this am.
RustyMacIntosh 08/10/20 11:54am Class A Motorhomes
RE: AC's on a 34ft Bounder acting up

that is what I am thinking too Doug, I will look at Youtube to figure out how to swap out the capacitors first off
RustyMacIntosh 07/30/20 01:33pm Class A Motorhomes
AC's on a 34ft Bounder acting up

My 96 Bounder Class A has sat behind my gates for the summer. I went to get it ready to maybe use this weekend. I plugged the AC cord in, and found neither front nor rear AC would work. The front comes on fanwise, as does the back. But when put on COOL the unit begins to skip. It will come on briefly then go quiet. Sometimes multiple times within a second or two. IT does this over and over. Never does the compressor come on. The back unit was working earlier this summer. It also now fan only. But on low fan, when you put it on cool it also begins to skip. Like it is trying to kick the compressor on. Do I have low amps? I'm plugged into the house. I have heavy cords to the plug. Also does the same thing with the generator on. I have only tried this with one ac at a time. Has the capacitor gone out on both units? Or are they DOA and ready for new ones. This unit has that Fleetwood Bounder intelligent panel on the wall btw. I do have a 10k generator across town that maybe would produce more amps...or the units DOA?
RustyMacIntosh 07/30/20 09:46am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Towing or packing a Smart Car on the back of a Class A

Having RedNeck Trailers build me a trailer. It will be low profile, with low profile fat tires, a 3500 Dexter Axle and tiedown. The Smart just got a new motor. But it is blocked in at the shop. Tomorrow we are going to try and get it out of the area it is in. The Yukon behind it cant be moved, so we will try working it thru the office area. Now that IS a Smart Car, instead of going out the garage it goes the the office.... Yes after doing some research, (math not being my best suit) having 1800 lbs of car sitting on a motorcycle type rack on the back of the motorhome would not be wise. I did get a line on a Tow Toad. I might buy it. Price is right.
RustyMacIntosh 06/19/20 07:13pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Towing or packing a Smart Car on the back of a Class A

4300 bucks???
RustyMacIntosh 06/14/20 11:09am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Towing or packing a Smart Car on the back of a Class A

I looked at ToyHaulers (or am looking at ToyHaulers) since I upgraded my Suburban to an Excursion V-10, but the motorhome, I think its best to buy a Lowes trailer...some of the other stuff I saw online is pushing 5-8grand for a platform.
RustyMacIntosh 06/14/20 07:01am Class A Motorhomes
Towing or packing a Smart Car on the back of a Class A

OK, I bought a Smart Car. Love it actually. Hella a gocart that haul ass. Three ideas being floated on how to pack this baby. Either, build a rack for the back of my Class A--glorified handicapped scooter type carrier that connects to the hitch, etc. The Smart weights about 1800. A trailer. I looked at Lowes. Since the Smart weights about 1800, and is about 5x8ish, a 6x9 or so flatbed type would work. Maybe. Or tow bar. Roadmaster builds for about $400 a setup that mounts to the subframe of the front of the Smart. I'd then have to buy the tow bar setup, but that is extra. My inclination is to build a rack. Such as in this picture that is attached. https://i.postimg.cc/hPDxhj4G/Snap-2020-06-14-at-05-28-00.png https://imgur.com/f9b08Wb
RustyMacIntosh 06/14/20 06:35am Class A Motorhomes
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