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 > Your search for posts made by 'SJ-Chris' found 85 matches.

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RE: Buying a Former Rental Class C. How many of us out there?

Front seat covers for a Cruise America Majestic..... I have had 4 different RVs. Each time in the past I have ever wanted to put seat covers over the front seats it has always been a struggle to find ones that fit just right. Much harder than you might think! Well, I wanted to share some "Cruise America RV" info that some of you might find helpful if you want to do something about your front seats. I have two 2015 Majestic 28a RVs. I wanted to get seat covers for one of them because the front seats (driver and passenger) were looking a little worn. I found the absolute PERFECT fit. Here it is: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B084WVK4DD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Now the strange thing is that the words in the ad say "Not for RV". But in looking at the photos and the description it looked identical to the seats that were in my Majestic 28a. I took a chance and ordered them. Much to my surprise....they fit like an absolute glove. In fact, I cannot imagine a seat cover fitting any better. So if you happen to be thinking about seat covers and the photo in that link look like your front seats, give it a shot. Just trying to pass along any good info I can to fellow Cruise America RV owners. Enjoy! Chris
SJ-Chris 03/04/21 11:34pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Adding a new battery...questions....(venting/gassing)

Chris read the information at the smart Gauge site re voltage differences. Do you have a link? I googled a bit but it didn't seem like it was pointing me to the right place.
SJ-Chris 03/04/21 10:58pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Adding a new battery...questions....(venting/gassing)

I'd suggest that a 900 watt microwave may draw about 100 amps. I know my 1570 watt Dometic draws 185 amps. I was able to successfully operate the Dometic microwave on 3 Marine jars for more than a few minutes. I have two banks--and one was 3, the other was 4 batteries. Switching allowed me to do either/or/both/off. 100 amps is what I was assuming from my 900w microwave. Question: Are you saying you were able to run your 1570w microwave for several minutes with 3 batteries? If so, then it seems like I should not have a problem running my 900w microwave for even longer. I guess I'll find out and report back. -Chris
SJ-Chris 03/04/21 09:45pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Adding a new battery...questions....(venting/gassing)

Are you sure? Method 3 requires equal amps and voltage from all 3 batteries. How are you doing this with one battery located 8' away? A 900W MW draws 65A+ and not the best for starting batteries which a Marine battery is - ie a compromised starting battery. Might be OK and might cause a low voltage fault. Hi CA Traveler, He could do method #3 if the leads to the battery bank go to a buss bar that is 5 feet from any battery. i.e. all wires the same length. I'd suggest that a 900 watt microwave may draw about 100 amps. I know my 1570 watt Dometic draws 185 amps. I was able to successfully operate the Dometic microwave on 3 Marine jars for more than a few minutes. I have two banks--and one was 3, the other was 4 batteries. Switching allowed me to do either/or/both/off. Yes, Method #3...All my positive wires are connected on a buss bar, and all my negative wires are connected on a different post...HOWEVER...the wire lengths are different. It's the best I can do currently. I'll do a voltage check at each battery to see if there is a difference when the batteries are in bulk charge (highest amps trying to enter batteries and therefore largest potential voltage drop). If one of the batteries is significantly lower in voltage (...how much is too much? 0.2v? 0.3v?) I can run a 2nd cable to that battery and I suspect that will fix the issue. Actually, the two batteries that will be added (one already added) have much longer wires BUT the cables are a fair amount thicker so that will help already with any voltage difference during charge. Make sense? Chris
SJ-Chris 03/04/21 09:42pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Adding a new battery...questions....(venting/gassing)

I believe all the batteries are about 14 months old. To me, that makes them relatively newish. Assuming they are all in good health, I'm willing to add a 3rd battery which is brand new (same manufacturer/size/etc). -Chris Please at least wire the new batteries in a balanced manner. Method #3 is the only way to do so for odd numbers of jars. http://www.smartgauge.co.uk/batt_con.html I suggest adding some plywood to the compartment you are going to use--and if all 3 batteries will fit there it would be better. I am happy to say I am using Method #3.
SJ-Chris 03/04/21 12:48pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Adding a new battery...questions....(venting/gassing)

Unless the batteries are almost unused, adding a 3rd battery may not be a great idea. If you can afford it, replace all three. Or, put the 4 older batteries on one bank, and the 2 new batteries on a separate bank. I believe all the batteries are about 14 months old. To me, that makes them relatively newish. Assuming they are all in good health, I'm willing to add a 3rd battery which is brand new (same manufacturer/size/etc). If this new battery ends up eventually dying 14 months earlier than it would have normally because one of my existing batteries goes bad and takes the other two with it, I'm okay with that. When that time comes, if I still even own this RV, I'll replace all 3 batteries at that time. I've been having pretty good luck buying Group 29s (RV/Marine Deep Cycle) batteries from Walmart usually for ~$90 each which to me seems pretty cheap. I believe the "only put batteries of the same age" mantra is really trying to protect people against a scenario where you might, for example, have one very old battery that is about to die. If you add in parallel a 2nd brand new battery in that scenario, it is likely that the bad battery will very quickly kill the good battery and then you pretty much just wasted money on that new battery. -Chris
SJ-Chris 03/04/21 12:06pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Adding a new battery...questions....(venting/gassing)

The battery box should be sealed with 2 vent hoses one high and one low. Seperating parallel batteries (if that is your plan) by 8' means unbalanced batteries ie load/charge usage distribution will be unequal. You might want to research this. Have you considered switching to 2x GC batteries instead? I'm using some heavy gauge wiring to connect the batteries. I plugged it into a voltage drop calculator and it seems reasonable. I'm no expert, and please correct me if I am wrong, but during the final stage of battery charging the current is pretty low (just a few amps going into the battery). When the amps are low like this, there is very little voltage drop. I suppose it is possible that one battery (closest) could get finished charging a bit sooner, but with solar doing lots of charging everyday it seems like the furthest battery would easily get caught up. Not sure, but the difference could be quite minor. Regarding using 2x GC batteries...A good suggestion. However, right now I've got two Group 29s that each are at ~100AH. Adding a 3rd will get me to ~300AH which is what I'm looking for. Two GCs only gets me to ~225-230AH. Part of my reason for adding a 3rd battery is that I also am installing a 2000w pure sine wave inverter. It will mostly just be for TV/DVD, computers and misc items, but also I want to be able to run my 900w microwave. From what I've read, two batteries might not be quite enough so I like the idea of adding a 3rd battery which will increase my capacity by 50% and spread the high amp draw out by 33.3%. For example: With 2 batteries and assuming the microwave will draw 100 DC amps through the inverter, each battery would be supplying ~50amps. By adding a 3rd battery, each one would only be supplying ~33.3amps which to me seems a lot easier on the batteries, wiring, etc. I have a parallel set of 3 AWG wires going from the batteries to the inverter to minimize voltage drop also. -Chris
SJ-Chris 03/04/21 11:57am Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Adding a new battery...questions....(venting/gassing)

We had a Majestic 24a. When I added an extra battery we didnt have the storage space to loose so I added one of these. We went with AGM so we didn't have to worry about adding water or anything else. https://www.torklift.com/rv/hiddenpower. That is a very interesting option which I had not thought about....THANKS for the suggestion. I did some more searching around and found this also: https://www.amazon.com/Steel-Bolt-Battery-Mounting-Tray/dp/B076666P81/ref=pd_aw_sbs_1/144-3145342-8767014?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B076666P81&pd_rd_r=f1726189-410c-4871-b170-b3d24a36a906&pd_rd_w=BEsmu&pd_rd_wg=CqbHc&pf_rd_p=1b60d0cd-e691-440f-aa83-cc788b983d0c&pf_rd_r=WHJTWV7J842SEVSR758V&psc=1&refRID=WHJTWV7J842SEVSR758V I'll have to crawl under my RV and see if there is a convenient place for something like this. The one drawback I see is access....seems like it would be a tremendous hassle anytime the battery needed to be checked/maintained/etc. If I was able to mount such a bracket, I'm not entirely sure how I'd be able to lift the battery up into it. -Chris
SJ-Chris 03/04/21 11:38am Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Adding a new battery...questions....(venting/gassing)

Use a vented box and hose. THIS May provide some ideas. See the 2 white boxes with the black vent hose. HERE is a wall mount vent. See the Frequently Bought Together section I found that article to be interesting. On the one hand, it talked about the seriousness (...and explosions), and on the other hand they seem to conclude with this: "Although it sounds fancy, and rather technical – venting an RV battery is not quite as complex as it sounds. All you really need to do is add a few holes – about 25mm in diameter to the top and bottom of your battery enclosure. It’s a simple enough procedure and it could prevent a disaster." Does anyone know what impact gassing/etc might have on other belongings stored in the same compartment? Thanks! Chris
SJ-Chris 03/04/21 11:33am Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
Adding a new battery...questions....(venting/gassing)

I've got two 2015 Thor Majestic 28a Class C RVs. One of them now has two AGM Group 29 batteries (I believe they are Group 29s) for the coach. The other RV has two lead acid Group 29s. All the batteries are ~1 year old. I'd like to add a 3rd battery to each RV (an AGM to the RV with the AGMs, and a lead acid to the RV with the lead acid batteries). The easiest place for me to put this 3rd battery (perhaps the only convenient place) is in the passenger side front compartment. This compartment is a decent size (~1 foot tall, 4 feet long, and 2 feet deep). I currently store the welcome mat, a 9'x16' mat, some campfire supplies (lighter, etc) and a pop-up garbage can for the campsite. Note: The other two batteries are on the driver side. I checked the compartment regarding adding the extra weight of a battery. I'm confident it could hold it without any problem, but I like to go overboard on safety so I will be adding some extra metal strapping underneath. My question is regarding venting the compartment and battery gassing. I'd like to put this battery in a battery box like this, and then secure it in the back of this compartment: https://www.amazon.com/attwood-9084-1-Large-Battery-Box/dp/B0000AY9DQ/ref=sr_1_2?crid=3ETMNZURVN47I&dchild=1&keywords=battery+box+group+31&qid=1614843096&sprefix=battery+box%2Caps%2C281&sr=8-2 That way, there would never be any risk of anyone shorting any metal across the top of the battery (yikes!). My plan is to mount it near the rear of the compartment so it will mostly be out of the way. I will drill some holes in the side of this battery box for the battery cables and then the battery cables will route out the back of the compartment and over to the other two batteries on the driver side. What sort of venting do you think I need in this compartment (not the battery box, but the actual side compartment where the battery (in its battery box) will live))? Will 3-4 half inch holes near the top and bottom of both ends of the compartment do the trick? Do lead acid and AGM batteries gas a lot? If so, will they cause any damage to any items that are stored in this compartment along with the battery (like the items I mentioned above)? Should I also drill some vent holes in the battery box? Should I worry that drilling some holes in this compartment make it no longer waterproof? Not sure if I'm overthinking this or not. Figured I could learn from those much wiser here :-) Let me know what you think. -Chris
SJ-Chris 03/04/21 01:21am Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Battery Question..

We normally keep our trailer plugged into 115v power at our storage facility, however we will now be losing power for anywhere up to 9 months.. Question (1). If I install a battery disconnect switch on batteries, how long can I expect the 2 year old batteries to remain usable for towing before requiring recharging? Question (2) If I decide to take a portable generator to the trailer every so often, and plug it into trailer to let the converter maintain the batteries, how big of generator should I use? I have access to both a 1000w Honda generator and a 2000 watt Yamaha generator. Comments or Opinions.. If it is outdoor where there is sunshine often, then a simple solar trickle charger (<$50) should keep your batteries topped off. -Chris
SJ-Chris 02/26/21 04:35pm Tech Issues
RE: Calling on Solar Techies

I installed a Aili battery monitor. (it'similar to the Renogy monitor) It asks for the total ah's in the battery bank (340). It uses this as a base when calculating +/- ah's. Assuming you never want to completely drain the batteries to 0 ah's should I put in the total amount assuming the monitor takes this into account or half the total ah's? I have the same battery monitor (Aili). You want to program it to your TOTAL AH, not 50%. If you set it to 50% it will cause a problem if you ever get to "0%" and keep discharging. The problem is this.... Once the meter gets to 0% it will not go any lower (it won't go negative). So let's assume at that point your SOC is at 50% (and your monitor says 0%). Well....let's say that it's the middle of the night when this happens and you've got your furnace blasting, etc and you end up draining another 20% of your battery bank (...not likely in your case, but just for illustrative purposes). So now your SOC is actually at 30% (and your monitor still says 0%). Once you start charging, your monitor will immediately start going up from 0%. Let's say you charge it all the way back up to what the monitor says is 100% full and you stop. Since you actually started at 30% SOC and not 50% SOC your batteries are really only at 80% SOC even though your monitor says 100%. This problem doesn't happen if you program your Aili monitor to show 100% of your battery bank's AHs instead of just half. Hope that makes sense. With this monitor (and I suppose most monitors), anytime you truly charge the battery bank back up to 100% (ie. hooked up to shore power for a few days, or if you have solar and park it for storage with everything powered off), then your monitor is once again synced up to what is truly 100% fully charged. Happy Camping! Chris
SJ-Chris 02/24/21 11:35am Tech Issues
RE: Electrical gremlins

Try this.... Shore power unplugged. Turn on your RV engine. With the engine running, the chassis alternator should be providing a large amount of voltage and amps to your batteries. Then see if those things that weren't working are now working. If they are, then it seems like there is an issue with your house batteries. -Chris
SJ-Chris 02/24/21 11:17am Tech Issues
RE: Buying a Former Rental Class C. How many of us out there?

Cruise America trickle charger specs....in case anyone has wondered... CA has these trickle charger solar panels usually mounted on top of the roof AC unit. I have two Majestic 28a units that I bought from Cruise America. On one of them, the solar trickle charger works. On the other one, it doesn't (it has been cut/destroyed). Side note: I was told by the sales rep that when they are refurbishing the units prior to selling them, they usually cut the solar line and also the backup sensors built into the bumper. I was told they do this because it is faster for them to complete the exterior refurbishment process. It is a shame that they do that as those would be nice features. Regarding the solar trickle charger, I was told that sometimes they cut them sometimes they don't. On one of my units, it works as expected. I sure do like the fact that my coach batteries are always getting trickled while in storage (....I HATE dead/low batteries!). On one of my other units, the trickle solar has been disconnected/destroyed. I removed it today as part of a 500w solar install. In case any of you are curious (...I was), here is what that panel is doing for you if you happen to have one that works.... https://i.imgur.com/EV8nExEl.jpg Looks like it would provide maybe 2-4 amp hours of charging per day. I have a battery monitor in my RV and I see that there is about .12 amps leaking even when I have everything off (...I know about half of that is due to the propane/carbon monoxide detector). So that means that in a day's time it will leak about 2.5AH. So the trickle charger is just enough to combat that, assuming you've got some sunshine. Soon both of my RVs will have solar. I just installed two 250w panels today. Got them from Santan Solar in Arizona for $35/panel :) Hope to finish up the wiring in the next few days. https://i.imgur.com/WJOTCR4l.jpg Happy Camping! Chris
SJ-Chris 02/23/21 02:02am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Buying a Former Rental Class C. How many of us out there?

*** Power Surge Protection *** I hear a lot of people who encourage buying/using a surge protector when plugged in at campgrounds. Cost ~$200. I suspect that most people do NOT have/use surge protectors, but that is just based on my observations. What I hardly ever hear is people talking about damage to their electrical system due to an electrical surge. So it makes me wonder if it is really a big issue or not. Specifically, as it pertains to Cruise America former rental units....I wonder something... Cruise America sends out 1000s and 1000s of renters every year and NOT ONE of them has a surge protector! Why not? Is it because in reality they aren't needed? Do you think Cruise America has their RVs built with some sort of built-in surge protection?? Do GFCI circuits protect against surges?? Just want to hear the thoughts of other CA formal rental owners... Is there a single Former Rental unit Owner out there who, without using a surge protector, has had a power surge that damaged their RV's electrical system/components? Honestly, I don't even mind buying one and using one for myself. BUT, I often times let others (family/etc) use my Majestics and I know they will either forget to use it, or lose it, etc. Thoughts? -Chris Surge protection is fine BUT you are not protected from "brown outs" which is low voltage. The damage done by undervoltage can be considerable. I brought and fitted a Progressive Industries EMS-HW30C (or EMS-HW50C for 50 A supplies) Not cheap but peace of mind should say the fridge get fried or anything else. I fitted it in our Rv between the shore supply and main panel and this also proteceted me against a generator fault. Surge Protection: 3-Mode / 1,790J / 44,000A. Ratings: 30A / 120V / 3,600W. Includes 14' Data Cable Open Ground, Open Neutral and Reverse Polarity detection and protection, Over/Under voltage Protection, Accidental 240V Protection and A/C Frequency Protection Miswired pedestal indication and surge failure indicator; Time Delay (136 seconds) Remote Scrolling Digital Display scrolls continuously through the power source information One time it picked up that the campsite socket did not have correct earth protection, which the owner then called in an electrician to fix. If you can wire a plug then you can fit this yourself. Just cut the main supply cable going into the main panel and insert this unit :) Good suggestion (hardwiring it). That way, it will be used 100% of the time (even by inexperienced or careless users) and it also won't get stolen or lost. I see this one on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/PROGRESSIVE-INDUSTRIES-HW30C-Hardwired-Electrical/dp/B004A32CGI/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=30%2Bamp%2Bpower%2Bmanagement%2BRV&qid=1614068354&sr=8-1&th=1 Looks like it has a built in display. Perhaps this could be wired in the rear of the compartment that houses the shore power plug and generator junction box. Then every time you plug in you could just glance into that compartment and see the readout and make sure it says all is good (E0)... Question: From reading the description on Amazon, it looks like if it detects over or under voltage it will shut off until the power is once again within the proper range. But what about other problems that it detects?? (like reverse polarity or an open ground) Does it still allow power into your rig? Or does it act as a circuit breaker and not allow the power to pass?? What happens if there is a surge? Does it shut down? For installation, Can you simply cut the power cord and splice in this controller? Seems pretty simple actually... -Chris
SJ-Chris 02/23/21 01:45am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Buying a Former Rental Class C. How many of us out there?

While checking the interior of my 2015 Majestic 28a last week I heard beeping and discovered it was my dual carbon monoxide / propane gas alarm. Upon closer inspection, the flashing lights indicated the unit had reached the end of its useful life and needed replacing. An inscription on the face plate also directed the device be replaced after 5 years of service. Just an FYI for other former rental owners to be aware. Cost to replace is appproximately $75. I bought mine online through Camping World with a $15 coupon. I had the same thing happen to mine,my RV was a bit over 4 years old when I purchased it,The propane detector failed about a year after my purchase, it was just a bit over 6 years old according to the MFG Date. I replaced it and then just a few months ago I hear that same beep again,checked and sure enough it was my Propane alarm failure beep and flashing light. I pulled it out and checked the MFG Date,it was 5 years and 2 months old,talk about planned failure. I also replaced mine from Camping World.For me I went to the store and checked it before I bought it,its MFG Date was only 1 month old,I suggest checking that to make sure that you didn't get a old one. A link to the one you bought might be very helpful to other owners of a Majestic 28A. Thanks for coming back and alerting others of this! I had the same issue with one of my two 2015 Majestic 28a units (beeping detector)... I decided to replace the propane and carbon detector on both my units because they clearly state that they are only good for 5 years. Important to note: There are different form factors (sizes) for different 28a units. One of my detectors was basically square, while the other was a long rectangle. If you have a 2015 or older cruise america unit you should definitely pull the detector and look at the date and replace as necessary. That detector is a serious safety device you don't want to mess around with. Happy Camping! Chris
SJ-Chris 02/20/21 01:50pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Buying a Former Rental Class C. How many of us out there?

*** Power Surge Protection *** I hear a lot of people who encourage buying/using a surge protector when plugged in at campgrounds. Cost ~$200. I suspect that most people do NOT have/use surge protectors, but that is just based on my observations. What I hardly ever hear is people talking about damage to their electrical system due to an electrical surge. So it makes me wonder if it is really a big issue or not. Specifically, as it pertains to Cruise America former rental units....I wonder something... Cruise America sends out 1000s and 1000s of renters every year and NOT ONE of them has a surge protector! Why not? Is it because in reality they aren't needed? Do you think Cruise America has their RVs built with some sort of built-in surge protection?? Do GFCI circuits protect against surges?? Just want to hear the thoughts of other CA formal rental owners... Is there a single Former Rental unit Owner out there who, without using a surge protector, has had a power surge that damaged their RV's electrical system/components? Honestly, I don't even mind buying one and using one for myself. BUT, I often times let others (family/etc) use my Majestics and I know they will either forget to use it, or lose it, etc. Thoughts? -Chris Cruise America....the largest RV renter in the world(?)....sends out 1000s and 1000s of inexperienced RVers every year plugging in to every campsite imaginable, and not one of them goes out with a surge protector. If it was an issue that happened on any regularity, it seems like they would have surge protectors built into their Majestics (....I'm guessing if you buy 1000 RVs from Thor you could likely have them install a built in surge protector for much less than the $200-250 it would cost to buy one off the shelf). The fact that they don't seems to indicate it's not a problem, right? Just for fun, I just called CA rentals and asked them about the need for surge protectors if I'm renting one of their units. The person didn't even know what I was talking about, and said nobody has ever asked about the need for surge protection before when renting. Yes, it's anecdotal but thought it was interesting. It certainly can't hurt to use a surge protector...just not sure if it is really needed. Maybe another way of looking at this is risk vs cost... Let's assume the cost of a decent surge protector (aka power manager/hookup) is $250. What are the ODDS that you are going to have your electronics fried due to bad power or a surge at a campsite if not using your surge protector? 1 in 10? 1 in 100? Let's call it 1 in 50. (I personally don't know a single person that it's happened to, but I don't know that many RVers). Then let's take a guess at what the "cost" would be associated with bad power or a surge... Blown AC/Microwave/Fridge motherboard/TV/DVD/Converter? I'm just trying to think of all the major 120v electrical items in a typical Former Rental. If you had to replace ALL of those items it would likely cost you $3000-$5000. Let's assume that on average you wouldn't even need to replace ALL of your electronics and let's say half of them get blown. So you are looking at an expense of ~$2000. If the odds of that happening are 1 in 50, then paying $250 for the surge protector doesn't seem like the right thing to do if you are just going by a risk vs cost analysis. Maybe this is inherently why most RVers do not bother with a surge protector? Thoughts? Note: As a Former Rental owner, we are talking about fairly basic RVs that only cost $25,000 - $40,000 to purchase/outfit. If I owned a $100,000 or $250,000 RV with WAY more expensive electrical stuff that could get damaged then it would be a no-brainer to get a great surge protector/power management hookup. This discussion is as it pertains to Formal Rental units which is why I posted it here to hear people's thoughts. Happy Camping! Chris
SJ-Chris 02/17/21 02:54pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Buying a Former Rental Class C. How many of us out there?

*** Power Surge Protection *** I hear a lot of people who encourage buying/using a surge protector when plugged in at campgrounds. Cost ~$200. I suspect that most people do NOT have/use surge protectors, but that is just based on my observations. What I hardly ever hear is people talking about damage to their electrical system due to an electrical surge. So it makes me wonder if it is really a big issue or not. Specifically, as it pertains to Cruise America former rental units....I wonder something... Cruise America sends out 1000s and 1000s of renters every year and NOT ONE of them has a surge protector! Why not? Is it because in reality they aren't needed? Do you think Cruise America has their RVs built with some sort of built-in surge protection?? Do GFCI circuits protect against surges?? Just want to hear the thoughts of other CA formal rental owners... Is there a single Former Rental unit Owner out there who, without using a surge protector, has had a power surge that damaged their RV's electrical system/components? Honestly, I don't even mind buying one and using one for myself. BUT, I often times let others (family/etc) use my Majestics and I know they will either forget to use it, or lose it, etc. Thoughts? -Chris
SJ-Chris 02/17/21 12:26am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Help identify leaking engine part (pic)

Update.... So I drove the front end of my RV up onto some leveling blocks to give me a couple more inches to crawl around. I was able to discover that the leak wasn't actually coming from the power steering pump (...which makes sense, because I haven't been losing any power steering fluid). I was able to look further up on one of the hoses coming in and I could see that the leak was coming from the upper radiator hose (right at a clamp). I applied a pressure test on the radiator and sure enough, it was leaking right at the hose connection. I was able to get a socket onto the hose clamp screw-head and was able to give it several turns to tighten. I tightened a couple of other hose clamps underneath and ran the pressure test again. Those leaks all stopped! There is a tiny tiny radiator leak I'm still investigating. For now, I feel much better. Thanks all for your suggestions and input. -Chris
SJ-Chris 02/11/21 09:13pm Tech Issues
RE: Help identify leaking engine part (pic)

Looks like the pressed in return line connector for the power steering. I would use some power steering leak stop, before tearing it apart. I believe now this is the power steering pump. How safe is power steering leak stop to use? Is there any risk to damaging anything else by using this type of product (will it gunk up anything else???) If I have to replace the power steering pump, any idea how much that would run me (ballpark)? Just trying to figure out if it is an easy job or hard (time consuming) job for a mechanic. Thanks! Chris
SJ-Chris 02/11/21 02:07pm Tech Issues
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