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 > Your search for posts made by 'Ski Pro 3' found 156 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Which 19.5" tire to choose

I run the M608's @ 265 width and love them. They sing to me at freeway speed IF the window is down. I run around the same rear weight on my axle as you and I'm so confident in this tire, I don't bother hauling around a spare any more. I got my Rickson wheels off craigslist. It took me 2 years to get the beauty rings but looks much better with them, it was worth the wait. 90psi rear, 72psi front. My 2006 Dodge Ram short bed w/4wd and diesel required a 2" leveling kit on the front for the tires to clear a full wheel lock to wheel lock on the steering wheel. Otherwise, they rubbed a very little bit just before lock.
Ski Pro 3 07/17/19 12:01pm Truck Campers
RE: Trojan T-105 Storage

I take mine out of the RV and place them in a garage that stays above freezing; around 40 or 50 degrees. I then check the electrolyte for specific gravity and trickle charge to at least 1.27 and then disconnect from the charger and place a digital voltage gauge on it. (draws no power until the button for display is pressed) I check it for 12.6 volts and specific gravity maybe once or twice during the down time. I've never seen the voltage change from 12.6 or the specific gravity drop below 1.265. I suppose it's overkill as just charging them and leaving for 3 months wouldn't have changed anything.
Ski Pro 3 07/17/19 11:50am Tech Issues
RE: Honda generator repair/replace?

Might only be a cracked spark plug.
Ski Pro 3 07/09/19 09:24pm Tech Issues
RE: Need wiring diagram and help

Outlets are usually daisy-chain wired off the GFI breaker. Open breaker, pull the GFI out of the wall and inspect it. Check wiring connections. If nothing observable, isolate the GFI from all other outlets by removing those daisychained wires, power it up and check to see if it's working right. Continue on to each outlet until it's isolated. It's ether the breaker or the GFI if you want to just shotgun it.
Ski Pro 3 06/18/19 04:36pm Tech Issues
RE: 120 Volt Power Debug Fuse Location

I agree; a breaker, not a fuse. Check to see if the breaker panel is labeled. Even if the breaker switch looks to be closed, reset it anyway by flipping it's switch off and then back on again.
Ski Pro 3 06/18/19 04:33pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Please confirm what I think I already know

No. Here's why; The odds of you getting bad power that is so bad it damages something on a camper is pretty small. After all, what works on the camper that is AC powered? Not your stove, water pump or hot water. If you have an air conditioner AND it's hot outside, then maybe that, but otherwise nothing really. I've never used one and never will on a camper I own. It's easy enough to work on and if anything ever did get damaged by some bad power, I'd fix it and probably for a lot less than that 'protector' costs. If you need it for your computer gear as you elude to, get a UPS from Costco for around $60. It will convert the AC mains to DC and keep a battery charged. This battery will use an inverter to make AC again, isolating the AC mains from your computer gear. But even that I wouldn't bother with, just get a surge protector power strip for under $30.
Ski Pro 3 06/18/19 04:22pm Tech Issues
RE: It sure is complicated.

Ignorance is bliss. Life is so much simpler for the uninformed. All you have to do is walk away from the forum, stick your head in the sand and join the rest of the uneducated and enjoy life. Of course, the school of hard knocks might bite you in the butt. Which, for me, is when I am made aware of something I am either not doing, or not doing right, and ignoring it. Once I'm aware of a situation, I can NOT just ignore it. It will know that I know and it will bite me at the very first opportunity that it can. Next trip most likely.
Ski Pro 3 06/17/19 09:46am General RVing Issues
RE: battery disconnect switch

No, just the positive side to the batteries will not keep everything on. In fact, it won't keep anything on. So, if you have physically removed the negative lead on the battery, and still have power to everything, then try this; at the same time the negative lead is off, take the positive lead off. If everything is still on, power is coming from something else other than the battery.
Ski Pro 3 06/17/19 09:41am General RVing Issues
RE: Tire and load/level question.

A couple things you could do to raise the trailer are; 1. leaf spring spacer blocks. At 2", on the trailer, this should be easy and safe. At 6" a sub-frame would be the way to go. 2. Taller tires on the trailer. 3. longer shackles for the leaf springs on the trailer. 4. change out springs to ones with more 'curl' to them on the trailer. Basically, everything you did to lower the truck, you can do to the trailer to raise it's ride height. I'd guess somewhere around $200 for any of these mods for materials. Labor, who knows?
Ski Pro 3 06/16/19 01:10pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: motor temp

It should hover around what ever the thermostat is. If 190, then that's what the engine temp should be. Oil temp will be higher, between 210 and 230 depending on how much load is on the engine, but water temp should not. Clutch fans usually will kick in about boiling point 212 degrees.
Ski Pro 3 06/16/19 12:58pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Installing a clean out at home

... so he wasn't going to pay for the "extra" work we did to solve his problem. Well, he's the boss and he was wrong to do that, but because the cost was so small, we have no reasonable recourse. You can apply a lien on his property until paid if you had a contract written. Contractor = contract = binding legal document. In California I think it's called a mechanic's lien or Construction lien.
Ski Pro 3 06/14/19 11:47am General RVing Issues
RE: Installing a clean out at home

As a retired general contractor you would be surprized at how many people want something done X way. Yet it is totally against code and common sense. Not really. Once you realize your customer is your boss. Every boss I've ever had or known would on occasion make demands that were against policy or company rules. It's no different really with the trades.
Ski Pro 3 06/14/19 09:10am General RVing Issues
RE: Installing a clean out at home

Your statement about the code being written by people who don't have a clue is flat out wrong. That's not to say that they don't have influence from lobbyists or politicians, but to say that it's written by politicians is incredibly false. At least, here in California, they are written by bureaucrats. I'll define bureaucracy as a system of government in which most of the important decisions are made by state officials rather than by elected representatives. So I stand by my statement. If not politicians themselves, they are written by the people politicians have appointed and can remove from their positions. Their websites end in .ca.gov then it's state run; AKA politicians. Their boss, board or other head is elected into position, then it's run by politicians. If their paycheck comes from the state of California, or what ever state they are in, it's run by politicians. No different than say public schools, law or fire departments. The primary problem with it is that those in power are influenced by forces other than the absolute good of the craft. In this case, codes. In my other examples, teachers are forced into curriculum that makes no sense today at all. Police are not allowed to even touch an illegal alien and, in fact, are issued drivers licenses. Fire departments aren't allowed staffing to safe levels. All mandates by their bosses, the politicians and the bureaucrats they appoint. But hey, I rant. Now, as a contractor, I don't always agree with the code and often wonder how it was determined, but that doesn't mean that the author was clueless. No? yet in that instance that made you wonder, in your mind he probably was. He would have been in mine. Maybe not completely clueless, but plainly not on top of his game writing that one.
Ski Pro 3 06/14/19 08:51am General RVing Issues
RE: Yellowstone glacier NP with no reservations

When we camped at Glacier, every morning there was a line-up at the campground. As campers left, spots were filled. I don't recall anyone being turned away. This was obviously a routine that the park manages quite well.
Ski Pro 3 06/13/19 09:31pm RV Parks, Campgrounds and Attractions
RE: Installing a clean out at home

I think I agree with WPT-GC. If you hire a contractor to install per code and pull a permit, it is up to the contractor to do it right. OK to ask about placement but let the contractor do the job you hired him to do and the inspector to aprove the work. Maybe in a perfect world, but contractors are notorious for doing shoddy work, skipping out half way through a job, not being there when things go wrong. As far as 'to code', just remember that is the MINIMUM quality that is acceptable by a government bureaucracy, written by politicians who have NO mechanical, engineering or construction skills and lobbied by unions that are paid only to protect their members, not the clients who hire them.
Ski Pro 3 06/13/19 08:53pm General RVing Issues
RE: Installing a clean out at home

OP, as a contractor, I would not like that you hired me to do a job and then went onto a random Internet forum to verify the quality of my work or choice of materials. If you came to me (the professional) and told me that a faceless, nameless internet somebody said that I was doing it wrong and suggested a better way of doing it, I'd walk off the job. The nature of questions you're asking suggests that you don't know anything about the work taking place, so be mindful of that when you offer advice to your contractor. There's an old saying...if you can't dazzle them with your brilliance, then baffle them with your BS. It would in your best interest to let the contractor do their job without telling them how it should be done...in this case. Amazing how so many contractors forget who the boss is. (hint; it's the guy writing the checks) Any good contractor would be happy that their customer is interested enough to stay involved and would take the time to address their concerns. And I'm not just picking on contractors, this goes for doctors, mechanics, etc. If I'm paying the bills, I'm dang sure going to verify I am getting the best product possible.
Ski Pro 3 06/13/19 08:49pm General RVing Issues
RE: Installing a clean out at home

I’m having a slab and hookups put in my side yard for RV parking. The clean out will tap into the sewer system from my property in CA. I want to make sure the Contractor is doing it right, so asking for guidelines from the group around: 1). How far away should the clean out be from the rig (away from the rig and/or downstream)? This is my most important question 2). Is there a pipe thickness/material I should be requiring? 3). For the hose hookup, is there a kind/brand I need to mandate? 4). Tips to make sure it doesn’t stink (like threaded cap, any shapes/slope I need to look for, etc.) I am in California and built a home a few years back and added a clean out for my RV and anyone coming for an extended visit. 1. I put mine just off the house because I wasn't sure just yet where the RV would end up being parked. However, now that I do know, I'd place it where ever would be the most convenient for connection to my RV. I have one of those powered macerators and the hose is 10' long I think. I'd place it where it would be out of the way when the RV is either home or away and is easy for a 10' hose to connect to. 2. When I spoke to my contractor plumber, I told him what I wanted to do; install an RV clean out connected to my existing sewer line. He said it's exactly what a simple clean-out is for any sewer line in any home. I have my master bath on that side of the house, so he just extended the line from the toilet out past the patio by about a foot and put a 90 elbow on to point it straight up and pitched it right for drain. NO TRAP. A cap is added but that's for another question. Same size and material for a home toilet. I think it's 4" ABS for code in my area. But PVC and cast iron are also legal. In any case, the inspector from the county didn't have any problem with it. I told him it's simply a clean out that may someday be used for RV black and gray tank flushes and he just nodded. 3. I assume you mean water hook up when you say 'hose' hookup. Any simple water bib will work fine. I installed one with a ballcock valve because it's a half turn full on/off instead of multi turn like your regular garden hose type. Be sure it's tied into your cold water line, not hot, and that the line has a vacuum break on it. Those are usually right where the main water line comes into the house and prevent water from back washing into your home's water lines. Sorta a one way valve. Every outside bib should have it's own, including sprinkler lines. If water is somehow shut off, residual water can't back flow into your home's drinking water supply. It is installed about 20' away from the clean out in exact opposite end of the RV so that the fresh water hose and the sewer hook ups do not come near each other and their hoses do not cross. 4. I installed a simple rubber cap that had been used by the contractor to leak test the drain. (A building code test that the inspector checks for) It uses a stainless steel hose clamp with a wide screw head on it like wings so I can turn it by hand to tighten and loosen. Threaded ABS or any plastic pipe are not meant for more than a few uses and will cause trouble later on down the road. I also placed a flush mount water meter box over the whole thing. You may have seen these used for hiding irrigation sprinkler manifolds as well. Mine looks sorta like this; Note; I first dug out and poured concrete about twice the size as a base so nothing can burrow up into this space. Get two; one for your water hose and one for your sewer. Buy them big enough to stow the hose and the drain pipes used to connect to the RV. This is very convenient. The finished height of these boxes are flush with the finished RV parking spot. It's better to dig too deep and pour a floor of concrete than to go too shallow and have the box stick above final grade. You can always add bricks or something to space it up or even pour more concrete for final effect. Add a drain if you get lots of rain. I don't but if I fill it with water while washing the RV, it only takes minutes for it to self-drain anyways. Another nice feature of this is; if you happen to slop some black water around the clean out while disconnecting or it leaks because you didn't attach it right, the recessed box area will capture it and it won't go running all over your parking pad. Just hose it down and let it drain a few times to clean it up. https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71R6LSrXetL._SL1200_.jpg width=480
Ski Pro 3 06/13/19 03:14pm General RVing Issues
RE: Mammoth mountain to South Lake Tahoe ?

When you check out other routes, let us know what you thought of those if you would please.
Ski Pro 3 06/10/19 10:57am Roads and Routes
RE: Zephyr Cove Charging $75 a night!

If Aramark doesn't do a good job, they will lose the contract. There are checks and balances. The government doesn't just give them the contract, then forget about them. True Dat! Yosemite comes to mind. Long time contract was awarded to another company.
Ski Pro 3 06/09/19 08:24pm Public Lands, Boondocking and Dry Camping
RE: 19.5 tire wear

Anyone got data from Toyo on what the tire age-out is on the M608Z? As both a commercial tire and a tire that can be regrooved, I would think it would be longer than passenger tires/5 years or so. And speaking of regroove, anyone here ever regroove theirs?
Ski Pro 3 06/09/19 11:01am Truck Campers
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